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Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 07:44:51 -0500
From: eheite@dmv.com (Ned Heite)
Subject: Removing Starter

Once you have removed a starter, you don't want to remember the experience.
It can be done without removing the exhaust downcomer pipe. The routine
involves two people, because the motor must be pushed up and then down
again. However, the experience is a great chance to check the ground strap
underneath. If the groud strap is gone, maybe you didn't need to replace
the starter after all.

8-{

------------------------------

From: kerryscott@usa.net
Date: Mon, 05 Jan 1998 06:05:37
Subject: Rochester Carb Leakage

My Rochester carb leaks gas at the point where the throttle shaft comes through the front of the carb.  PO rebuilt the carb shortly before I bought the vehicle last spring.  I don't know whether it leaked before he rebuilt it or not.  I have another rebuild kit on hand.  I'd appreciate any advice any can offer.

Thanks.
____________________________________________________________________
Get free e-mail and a permanent address at http://www.netaddress.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 05 Jan 1998 14:01:07 +0000
From: Colin Butter <c.butter@umds.ac.uk>
Subject: Tyres

I'd welcome some advice on tyres.  A year ago I replaced the Avon
Rangemasters on my 110 Defender with BFG Track Edge.  Apart from trouble
with punctures (about which various members of the group gave useful info),
I've been quite pleased with the tyes.  However, after yet another series
of punctures ( even running with the tags removed and with radial tubes)  I
need to replace a couple of tyres, and can't use the Trac Edge because
there aren't any currently in the UK.  I need reasonable off-road
performance, although I cover a lot of road miles.  

Cheers

Colin

******************
Dr Colin Butter
Physiology Dept
UMDS, St Thomas' Campus
Lambeth Palace Rd
London SE1 7EH

Tel xx 44 171 928 9292 ext 1845
Fax xx 44 171 928 0729
Mobile xx 44 973 381086 
c.butter@umds.ac.uk
   

------------------------------

From: Andy Phillips <AnPi@norsk-data.co.uk>
Subject: RE: Tyres
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 14:22:25 -0000

I reshod my 90 a few months back with some 235/85R16 tyres. So far
(10,000 miles? maybe less) they have performed perfectly and have a
compromise tread pattern. I have been off road in them but my vehicle =
is
my daily driver so I've covered most of my miles on tarmac where I've
had no problems at all. The tyres are from Bronco Tyres direct and are
retreads. The major advantage is the price which was =A353 per tyre on =
my
doorstep. They are wearing really well and I have traveled regularly at
motorway speeds without too much noise. They are firestone steeltex so
they are nice and safe too. The tyres are available in a range of sizes
and tread patterns. Retreads are safer than remoulds and believe it or
not they are used most of the time on aircraft! I can give you some =
more
info if you'd like but I'll wait for you to ask rather than bore you
(and the list) to death.

Andy.

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	Colin Butter [SMTP:c.butter@umds.ac.uk]
> Sent:	Monday, January 05, 1998 2:01 PM
> To:	lro@playground.sun.com
> Subject:	Tyres
>
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 19 lines)]
> tubes)  I
> need to replace a couple of tyres, and can't use the Trac Edge =
because
> there aren't any currently in the UK.  I need reasonable off-road
> performance, although I cover a lot of road miles. 
>
> Cheers
>
> Colin
>
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 19 lines)]
> c.butter@umds.ac.uk
>   

------------------------------

From: Orin Harding <orin@deltacp.com>
Subject: Fuel Injection (2.25 L)
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 10:27:49 -0500

We are in the final stages of testing a fuel injection system for this =
engine.  I wanted to take a straw poll of the list to see how much =
interest there would be in a do-it-yourself kit which would sell for =
about $1,200.00 complete.  No modifications to the car are necessary =
other than a 1 1/2" hole in the right hand tool box for the wiring =
harness.

Everything for the conversion would be included:
	ECU
	Throttle body (replaces carburetor)
	Electric fuel pump (old pump is removed and a blanking plate for old =
pump mounting will be included)
	Wiring harness
	Water temperature sensor
	Air temperature sensor
	Oxygen sensor with rich-lean indicator (optional)
	Miscellaneous clips, electrical connectors, etc.

The test car, a 1969 S2a, runs VERY well with no cold or hot start =
problems, fantastic throttle response, and a noticeable increase in =
power.  We haven't checked the HP on a dyno yet but there is definitely =
a "seat of the paints" improvement.  Fuel mileage is also noticeably =
improved.

Please e-mail your comments and questions.

Orin Harding
(336) 299-4819
orin@deltacp.com
	

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 10:42:09 -0500
From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Subject: Re: Fuel Injection (2.25 L)

Is this made up from new parts or stuff you scrounged off a junker 
Toyota?

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon,
'81 Honda Goldwing 1100 Standard:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

------------------------------

From: "Dries Venter" <ventera@ilink.nis.za>
Subject: Re: Tyres
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 19:06:18 +0200

Do you get General tyres in the UK?  The one's we get here are far stronger
than the Avon's.  They are called Super All Grip, steelbelted radial
tubeled tyres with an "8-ply" rating.  The only punctures I'v had on these
tyres was a razor sharp rock in the Namib desert - it cut right through the
tread!  In this same desert the Avon just blew to smithereens after about
30km or so (ground temperature too high they say)! I get about 50000 km on
mine, mostly normal road use, but they are excellent all-rounders.  Another
option we have are Continental Conti-Trac's which are fairly new issue
here, but everybody's raving about them.  LR South Africa fits them as
standard equipment.

Hope this helps.
Dries Venter
Pretoria
South Africa
1985 Defender PUP V8 aka "The Yellow Submarine"
----------
> From: Colin Butter <c.butter@umds.ac.uk>
> I'd welcome some advice on tyres.  A year ago I replaced the Avon
> Rangemasters on my 110 Defender with BFG Track Edge.  Apart from trouble
> with punctures (about which various members of the group gave useful
info),
> I've been quite pleased with the tyes.  However, after yet another series
> of punctures ( even running with the tags removed and with radial tubes) 
I
> need to replace a couple of tyres, and can't use the Trac Edge because
> there aren't any currently in the UK.  I need reasonable off-road
> performance, although I cover a lot of road miles.  

------------------------------

From: "Dries Venter" <ventera@ilink.nis.za>
Subject: Re: Dead V8
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 19:09:14 +0200

A fairly quick check, although not accurate to the n'th degree is to:
1) Mark the plug lead positions on the bottom of the distributor
2) Take the distributor cap off
3) Unscrew the plugs
4) Rotate the engine using the pulley at the front until #1 cylinder is at
the top.  This can be inspected visually through the plug hole or by using
a long thin screwdriver as a probe.  What you are aiming to get is the
piston to be at the very top of its travel.  This is the difficult bit
because ther's no easy way of telling when the piston is at TDC.  On V8's
it can also be extremely difficult to inspect the cylinder through a plug
hole.
5) Check the rotor.  If it is not pointing to the #1 spark plug lead, you
need to give the engine another full revolution because you managed to  get
the pison at the end of the exhaust stroke, and you want it at the top of
the compression stroke.
6) If the rotor is pointing to #1 plug lead, check the points, they should
be on the verge of opening, or already open.  Rocking the pulley back and
forth should verify that the points are in fact opening at this point.
7) Now do 4 and 6 to the other cylinders in the correct firing order.  NB,
on a V8 you mustn't turn the engine too far from one cylinder to the next,
the firing points are spaced about 45 degrees apart.
8) If all this checks out your timing is probably in order.

The only sure way to check valve timing is to remove the timing cover and
check the alignment marks on the gears/chain.  This would also mean that
you must remove the valve covers/tappet covers to check the rockers to make
absolutely 100% sure you have cylinder #1 at TDC.

Only other thing that I could think of is that you've lost compression
through a broken piston ring(s) or piston top(s).

Regards,

Dries Venter
Pretoria
South Africa
1985 Defender PUP V8 aka "The Yellow Submarine"

----------
> From: Philip Shotton <phil@iisc.co.uk>
<snip>
> Is it possible that the timing chain has jumped a tooth or three? Or
> even that a woodruff key has gone west and the camshaft pully has
> slipped a bit? What's the easiest way of checking the valve/distributor
> timing? Any other bright ideas?

------------------------------

From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Subject: Back to Work, Landy for Sale
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 08:49:38 -0800

Well, back to work today:-(

Hope everyone had a nice holiday season.

Got to meet list member Pete from Trenton, Ontario who was in Victoria
for the holidays.  He had a quick =BD (thanks Ron) hour tour of my
work-in-progress and a quick cup of coffee before he flew back home.

I found an ad for a '64 SWB here in Victoria.

It reads: '1964 LAND Rover 4wd. short 2-door, radial tires, works well,
$3000.00'

I haven't seen it.  Usual disclaimers.  E-mail me if you want the
number...

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 05 Jan 1998 15:23:55 -0800
From: "Con P. Seitl" <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Series Differential

Hi all;
  Some time back someone gave the mathematical formula for working out 
the diff gear ratio. Something to do with the numbers stamped on the 
crown wheel, muliplying it with the teeth, adding this and subtracting 
that, etc etc. Anyone got that info?

Regards, 

Con Seitl
1973 III 88 "Pig"

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 05 Jan 1998 11:17:32 +0100
From: Thomas Spoto <tspoto@az.com>
Subject: Re: Series Differential

Con,
Is'nt it,       Crownwheel divided by  Pinion     ie  47 teeth / 10 teeth
= 4.7

Tom Spoto

Con P. Seitl wrote:

> Hi all;
>   Some time back someone gave the mathematical formula for working out
> the diff gear ratio. Something to do with the numbers stamped on the
> crown wheel, muliplying it with the teeth, adding this and subtracting
> that, etc etc. Anyone got that info?
> Regards,

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 11 lines)]
> Con Seitl
> 1973 III 88 "Pig"

------------------------------

From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Subject: RE: Back to Work, Landy for Sale
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 12:25:06 -0800

Guess I should clarify that that's Victoria, BC  Canada...

I found an ad for a '64 SWB here in Victoria.

It reads: '1964 LAND Rover 4wd. short 2-door, radial tires, works well,
$3000.00'

I haven't seen it.  Usual disclaimers.  E-mail me if you want the
number...

>-----Original Message-----
>From:	Paul Quin
>Sent:	Monday, January 05, 1998 8:50 AM
>To:	'Land Rover List'
>Subject:	Back to Work, Landy for Sale
>Well, back to work today:-(
>Hope everyone had a nice holiday season.
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 11 lines)]
>Hope everyone had a nice holiday season.
>Got to meet list member Pete from Trenton, Ontario who was in Victoria =
for
>the holidays.  He had a quick =BD (thanks Ron) hour tour of my =
work-in-progress
>and a quick cup of coffee before he flew back home.
>I found an ad for a '64 SWB here in Victoria.
>It reads: '1964 LAND Rover 4wd. short 2-door, radial tires, works well,
>$3000.00'
>I haven't seen it.  Usual disclaimers.  E-mail me if you want the =
>Well, back to work today:-(
>Hope everyone had a nice holiday season.

number...
>and a quick cup of coffee before he flew back home.
>I found an ad for a '64 SWB here in Victoria.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 05 Jan 1998 16:41:12 -0500
From: "William L. Leacock" <wleacock@pipeline.com>
Subject: Hybrid

Richard writes re gearing
 Which transfer ratio do you have ?  there is a less than direct ratio
available for the LT 95 box which might give you a high ratio increase.
Bill Leacock  ( Limey in exile )
 88 and 109 LR's and 89 RR 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 05 Jan 1998 16:43:30 -0500
From: "William L. Leacock" <wleacock@pipeline.com>
Subject: backplate

Jim to fix your loose pin, centralise it and weld it ijn place, saves a lot
of work taking it all apart.
Bill Leacock  ( Limey in exile )
 88 and 109 LR's and 89 RR 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 17:25:09 -0500
From: Steve Rochna <75347.452@compuserve.com>
Subject: Traction Stuff

All:

I read a few days ago that there was a place in Tx with Trac Edge tires f=
or
significantly less than other dealers.  Who makes this tire?  I'd like to=

see one since I'm in the market for a new set of 16" tires.  Also I've re=
ad
bits and pieces (due to a problem on my end) of putting positive locking
diffs in Series machines.  I called a company here in the US about a year=

ago and he said they wern't making ones then that would fit.  Are there
some out there that will fit an otherwise stock '72 Siii 88"?  If so wher=
e?

On the side of offering info I've recently used Westlet's rubberized
undercoating on the underside of my floor panels while I had them out for=

shifter work.  The stuff goes on like thick spraypaint and seems to foam =
a
bit making a rather thick layer (I used 3 coats) and the sound attenuatio=
n
was quite noticeable.  I had a can of this stuff sitting in the garage
since last summer and didn't get around to using it until now - I wish I
hadn't.  A guess of 4-5 cans (at 3.99/can @ pep boys) should probably do
the underside of all footwells, seats, tunnel, and the loud areas at the
rear wheelwells.  The nice thing is it cures unlike the tarry stuff and y=
ou
can mask screw areas just like paint.

Thanks for the info.  Steve

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 05 Jan 1998 19:31:45 -0800
From: "Con P. Seitl" <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Insulation Info Request

gehl@at.crane.navy.mil wrote:
> Dave Place et al.,
> Keep us informed of your insulation progress.  I have looked at
> several types (all more $$$) but have always wondered how to apply
> it.  What glue do you settle on?  By closed cell, does this mean it
> will not eventually waterlog?  Sound deadening?  Tell all.  Mark

Mark;  The insulation needn't be glued when put in the door. Just cut to 
fit, add several layers and tape with red tape that's used in 
construction, namely, Tyvek tape. After putting the door panel back on , 
it'll hold all in palce. It's also designed not to crush or get 
waterlogged, it's use was for putting under concrete slabs in homes that 
are heated by infloor heating pipes. ( I guess they're counting on you 
not ripping the floor up later to see if it's waterlogged or collapsed )
About gluing it, I don't know yet. I imagine some glues like contact 
cement will attack the foam, so experimenting with it is suggested.

Con Seitl
1973 III 88 "Pig"

------------------------------

From: CBeireis <CBeireis@aol.com>
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 20:06:26 EST
Subject: Re: Back to Work, Landy for Sale

Paul, I'm interested, also is that Canadian dollars or US.

Christopher Beireis
'88 RR
'80 IH Scout II Turbodiesel
'72 Jag XJ6 Series 1

------------------------------

From: "Charles Morris" <scimg@quiknet.com>
Subject: The MUD run was a blast
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 19:18:56 -0800

Well the mud run was great!

I had a great time with the eight other rovers and their owners on the
trip.  Lots of sticky/slippery mud and I learned a bunch about the
importance of tire selection. I was still running the stock BFGs and really
needed somthing with lugs. Lockers and slider panels would have helped as
well.

I got a few new mud run features on my D90 including:
  Pinstriping down both sides (polishable, I think)
  Dented both rocker panels
  Mud everywhere! I even got mud in places I shouldnt have.
  4-6 hours of cleaning ahead of me. :)

I would go again though. Its not a party until something gets broke.:)
By the way I want to thank the NCRC, I really enjoyed your company this
weekend.

Who should I send my double pics to? I have a couple pictures of Granny in
his precarious position.

Charles
97NAD90#1927

p.s. danny, my copilot and spotter on this trip, is my nephew, not my son.
I, as of yet, do not have any children. I do have a rover though. Not any
different than a whiney child I guess.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 20:53:13 -0600
From: mtooze@tan.unl.edu (Marcus Tooze)
Subject: 1967 Landrover 109 Carawagon for sale

      1967 Landrover Carawagon For Sale

View at http://www.calmit.unl.edu/tooze/carawagon

Description:

- 1967 Landrover 109 Carawagon converted by Searle of Thames in excellent
unmolested condition

- 84,000 original miles. RHD. I am the third owner. Much documentation of
upkeep including british log books, repair history and original owners
manuals etc. The vehicle is now titled and registered in Nebraska.

Exterior (body and chassis):

- Original Searle factory paint (Limestone).

- 3 door, spare on hood and rear door.

- Pop up roof

- One dent in right wing (will pop out). Some scratches/small dents in rear
body work. Right had door top is bad, but i have a new complete door.

- Chassis: PERFECT! Never welded or plated. I believe it is galvanized. NO
RUST.

- Bulkhead: Excellent. One small quarter sized hole in right hand side of
bulkhead. All splash guards etc in place.

Interior Fitments:

- Original Searle factory seating in excellent condtion - limestone
'vinyde' driver and passenger seats, with central

cubby box (factory). Rear sideways bench that converts to one bed.
Everything perfect apart from stitching in

drivers seat is coming undone.

- ORIGINAL LANDROVER DOOR PANELS IN GREY RHINO VINYL, ALL ORIGINAL INTERIOR
BULKHEAD PANELS AND GREY RHINO COVERINGS...all in excellent condition

- African mahogany cabinets, including fold out table, storage areas.
Including all original Searle factory dining set (plates, cups, saucers
etc)

- Porta potty

- Sink, faucet.

- Fridge (currently not working)

- 2 burner Stove, two original propane tanks included stowed under wheel
arches.

Mechanicals:

- 4 cylinder gas engine, solex  carb, unleaded head conversion

- 4x4 high and low work correctly, no nasty whines of clunks from the
drivetrain.

- Free wheeling hubs

- The ONLY thing changed on this truck from original is I converted it to
negative ground and fitted an alternator in place of

the generator. I have the voltage regulator and generator if you wish to
take it back to original.

Misc.:

I have some factory literature on the vehicle too.

Price: $7900

Email me at mtooze@tan.unl.edu or call me at 402 472 0306 (day) or 402 438
4465 (eve.) if you have any questions.

----- End Included Message -----

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 05 Jan 1998 23:57:16 -0500
From: Winn Bearden <wbearden@americus.net>
Subject: Re: Hybrid

William L. Leacock wrote:

> Richard writes re gearing
>  Which transfer ratio do you have ?  there is a less than direct ratio
> available for the LT 95 box which might give you a high ratio increase.
> Bill Leacock  ( Limey in exile )
>  88 and 109 LR's and 89 RR

 Bill,
    I'm not sure which ratio I have.  Auto Conversions emailed me and said
the same, that there is a higher ratio that came in the newer LT95's.  Can
I find out from the number off of the transmission?

Thanks,
--
Winn Bearden
P.O. Box 464
Americus, GA 31709
912-924-6513 (H)
912-928-4984 (CELL)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 05 Jan 1998 23:25:21 -0700
From: William Dan Terry <wterry@netpubsintl.com>
Subject: Re: help! pooping out

Thanks Brian Cramer, John Dillingham and John Cranfield. Vapor lock was
a likely candidate (occasional, after short sit after a hot run), and I
finally got the chance to test it (mostly bike ride and carpool). I'll
try John C's remedy. Sounds like a winner.

Peace, William

_______W__i__l__l__i__a__m_____D__a__n_____T__e__r__r__y_______
  How do we acquire wisdom along with all these shiny things?
  (David Brin)

  Director of Technology                NetPubs International
  wterry@netpubsintl.com           http://www.netpubsintl.com

------------------------------

From: CIrvin1258 <CIrvin1258@aol.com>
Date: Tue, 6 Jan 1998 02:00:22 EST
Subject: Dead gearbox diagnosis

...And the results are in. The winner is - the first speed laygear -
YAAAAAAAAY!

I opened it up today, and found that it had ONLY 3 TEETH LEFT ON IT!

This explains why the casing split open: the remains were "poured" in between
the two gears, and BAM!, Instant oil leak. I now have a gearbox that I put
together from the dead one, and the sick one from my 88", because the TR-4
that I was borrowing from a friend, was backed into, last week (and I don't
want to drive it anymore - I have enough cars to fix!), so I kinda feel bad
about it. In the morning (provided I wake up early enough) I'll finish the
job.

The casing actually split right behind the rear layshaft bearing, probably
where somebody before me, had drilled a hole to assist in removing an old
bearing race,(BTW - the bearing AND the race were unharmed) then moved in
three directions: up, straight down (the one that was noticable), and to the
right side of the casing as well. The first speed maingear, as well as the
rest of the gearbox components, were left unharmed - including all the
bearings, though I think that I'll not be using that maingear for anything
ever again!

Charles (still have the overdrive to do an autopsy on)

------------------------------

From: Wrecker <wreck@wreckers.demon.co.uk>
Subject: hybrids
Date: Tue, 6 Jan 1998 07:14:08 -0000
[digester: Removing section of:  Content-Type: multipart/alternative; ]
	charset="iso-8859-1"

Hi All
Its a long time since I last posted to the list. Hope you all had a good =
time over the xmas/new yr. I was wondering if anybody has any info on =
building a hybrid based on a 109" pick-up and a 100" Rangy chassis with =
a 3.5 V8.

Any info would be recied with thanxs

Yours
Wrecker
wrecker@wreckers.demon.co.uk

------=_NextPart_000_0064_01BD1A72.AE32CA40
	[ Original post was HTML ]
	charset="iso-8859-1"

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.2106.6"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#b8b8b8>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Hi All</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Its a long time since I last posted =
to the list.
Hope you all had a good time over the xmas/new yr. I was wondering if =
anybody
has any info on building a hybrid based on a 109&quot; pick-up and a =
100&quot;
Rangy chassis with a 3.5 V8.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Any info would be recied with
thanxs</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Yours </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Wrecker</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT =
size=3D2>wrecker@wreckers.demon.co.uk</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_0064_01BD1A72.AE32CA40--

------------------------------

From: Autoconv <Autoconv@aol.com>
Date: Tue, 6 Jan 1998 04:05:28 EST
Subject: Re: Series Differential

Hi Con

Ratio =   No of teeth on crown wheel / No of teeth on Pinion

Regards

David Ashcroft

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 06 Jan 1998 09:25:06 +0000
From: Ian Stuart <Ian.Stuart@ed.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: hybrids

Wrecker wrote:
> Hi All
> Its a long time since I last posted to the list. Hope you all had a good
> time over the xmas/new yr. I was wondering if anybody has any info on
> building a hybrid based on a 109" pick-up and a 100" Rangy chassis with
> a 3.5 V8.
You'd be better off using a 110 chassis (The wheelbase is the same as a
109's)

-- 

     ----** Ian Stuart (Computing Officer)
    Medicine & Veterinary medicine Support Team,
    University Computing Services, 
    Edinburgh University. 
    Phone: +44 131 650 3027

Personal Web pages: <http://www.tardis.ed.ac.uk/~kiz/>

------------------------------

Subject: Re: Round heater core
Date: Tue, 6 Jan 98 11:13:21 +0100
From: Marc Rengers <mr@grant.media-gn.nl>

Take a look in some previous Land Rover Owners, somewhere in the last 
five or so is how to make your own round heater wich looks like the 
original......

Marc Rengers                          mr@grant.media-gn.nl
Westeremden, Holland                  http://minerva.media-gn.nl/landrover
Tel: (+31) 0596-551334                Pager: (+31) 06-59111461

  #=====#               #=========#               #=========#         
  |___|__\___           |_______|__\___           |_______|__\___     
  | _ |   |_ |}         |  _    |   |_ |}         |  _    |   |_ |}   
  "(_)""""(_)"          ""(_)"""""""(_)"          ""(_)"""""""(_)"
1977  88" III 2.25     1987 110"  300 TDi          1968  109"  2.25   
 petrol    23-67-XB     diesel VS-GG-16          petrol unknown reg.     
                     was a StaWag (RH-12-PF)  soon with the 2.5 n/a diesel
    SOLD !!!           and 2.5 n/a diesel     !! rebuild already started 
!!

also subscribed to LAND ROVER Owner International (great magazine)

------------------------------

From: "Andy Best" <abest@dial.pipex.com>
Subject: Re: Lightweight Door Mirrors
Date: Tue, 6 Jan 1998 09:28:24 -0000

Elwyn York wrote:

>I have a 1972 SIII hard top ex-uk millitary lightweight, it has one wing
mirror - off a maxi or something, but i would like to fit 90/110 style
wingmirrors.  Most people i ask dont know about fitting them or adapting
them
in anyway

>I hope someone can help as with only 1 ext. mirror on the drivers side its
a
bit of a problem in traffic...

I had the same problem about 8 or 9 years ago. The solution was a steel
plate, probably about 3 inches high x 2 inches wide, which mounted on the
outside of the top door hinge. This plate had two pairs of holes. Two plain
holes for the door hinge bolts and two countersunk holes for bolts which
fitted standard 90/110 door mirrors. The mirror is attached to the plate
first, then the plate is attached to the vehicle with the door hinge bolts
(it may be necessary to use slightly longer ones). I think the plate was a
Genuine Part but as I no longer have the vehicle or the receipt I can't help
with a part number. I got mine from Dunsfold L/R (usual disclaimer - just a
satisfied customer). If you have a Lightweight and a 90/110 mirror, the
plate should be easy to make. I know a few Series 1 people who have fitted
90/110 mirrors using a similar arrangement, but due to the 180 degree door
swing the mirror has to be positioned to avoid contact with the windscreen
when the door is fully opened.

Andy Best
abest@dial.pipex.com
1955 S1 86"
1985 90 2.5D

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