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Date: Sun, 4 Jan 1998 16:22:26 +0100
From: Anders Boqvist <ostkant@algonet.se>
Subject: Re: V8 starter - must it be shielded?

>at the underside of the Yellow Submarine noted that the strter motor is
>awfully close (like 1") to the R.H downpipe of the V8.  He said performance
>in the long run would suffer because the starter's insides get cooked to a
>frazzle.  The starter has been rebuilt already due to poor cranking speed
>and high current draw.  He suggested trying to poot some sort of a shield
>ver the starter, bolted onto the starter retainng bolts (I suppose he meant
>sandwiched between the starter and the mounting flange)
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 14 lines)]
>Dries Venter
>1985 100 V8 PUP aka "The Yellow Submarine"

Yes it is a god idea to mount a shield. On Chevies there is a single bare
plate, and that is enough. On my Blazer (sorry) I also twisted the
collectors with some special racing textile that hold the heat. I had some
problem befor but not today.

Anders

------------------------------

From: Chuque Henry <ChuqueH@isco.com>
Subject: My Generator
Date: Sun, 4 Jan 1998 10:39:28 -0600

I was out yesterday and got in a little mud and at some point the
generator gauge stopped jumping around like it always does when I have
my lights and such going, (I'm sure you know what I'm talking about) and
the red light on the same display is on all the time while the gauge
reads just below zero no matter what RPM the engine is at.  Did I loose
my generator?  My headlights don't change brightness when I rev the
engine.  Does anyone sell a kit to switch to a domestic alternator?
This is a 1970 IIa 88".  Thanks in advance!

-Q

> ----------
> From: 	Anders Boqvist[SMTP:ostkant@algonet.se]
> Reply To: 	lro@playground.sun.com
> Sent: 	Sunday, January 04, 1998 9:22 AM
> To: 	lro@playground.sun.com
> Subject: 	Re: V8 starter - must it be shielded?

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 30 lines)]
> problem befor but not today.
> Anders

------------------------------

From: Solihull@aol.com
Date: Sun, 4 Jan 1998 14:07:17 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re:  My Generator

Chucque, by the time you switch to an alt, you'd have spent more in money and
cogitation, than just rebuilding the lucas. Besides, an alt will quit under
such abuse, too. The stock lucas bracket, if you can find one will accept
some jap alternators whic should be plentiful. I don't know, 'cause I seldom
pay more than $50 to $100 to get a lucas rebuilt, and my rebuilder is
gooooood at his craft. 
  If I had it to do over again, (and who knows, maybe I will!) I'd mount the
alternator high and on the right side, to spare it some mud. Just find an
auto electric shop that understands tractors and they won't even blink when
you lay the lucas gennie on the counter. May even have one on the shelf!

Cheers!!
John Dillingham
near Canton, GA
KF4NAS
LROA #1095
SoLaRoS #23
73 s3 swb 25902676b DD "Pansy"
72 s3 swb 25900502a rusted, in suspended animation
Looking for a P5 project, well, OK, or a P6 or another SD1

------------------------------

From: IBEdwardp <IBEdwardp@aol.com>
Date: Sun, 4 Jan 1998 14:39:32 EST
Subject: Series door seals

While cutting, grinding, drilling and otherwise separating my 32 year old LR
from her door seals this afternoon, I seemed to remember that these old rubber
seals once they become brittle and glazed over are hazardous and that you
should wear gloves, respirator etc.  Anyone know anything about this?  Have I
once again found something enjoyable that is wrecking my health?  Come to
think of it, I believe I read this in one of the Haynes books that is now out
on loan (ie. gone).

Any info/insights appreciated.

Ed Bailey
S2a SWB (formerly green)
Somewhere in East Tennessee

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 04 Jan 1998 15:24:01 -0800
From: Dave Place <dplace@mb.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Cooked Starter

If you look in the J.C. Whitney Catelogue, they list a heat blanket for
the G.M. starters.  It is an aluminium covered blanket that goes over
the stater to protect it from manifold heat.  GM had the same problem we
have with the starter too close to the down pipe.  I had the same
problem we all suffer from trying to replace the starter in a IIA
without taking out the exhaust.  I had the muffler shop put a joint in
the pipe so I could take just the down pipe out to remove the starter.
If you look at the original Land Rover exhaust system, this is what they
do with a four bolt flange just under the driver's floor area.  You
split the exhaust there and remove it from the manifold and then you can
take out the starter.  I would think that with the right hand drive
vehicles there may have been a little more room without the steering and
foot pedals to contend with.
Dave VE4PN
P.S. Has anyone actually heard any other Land Rover Hams on 20 meters
since we tried to get something going?

------------------------------

From: "Eyres, Richard RP" <Eyres.Richard.RP@bhp.com.au>
Subject: Re: That darn starter..
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 10:57:00 +1100 

"
From: Adrian Redmond

And whilst on subject - is it really necessary to strip the manifolds =
to
remove the starter motor? or is there a curious gyn=E6cological method =
of
safe removal and refitting of which i am not aware? Any suggestions?

Anyone else with a pointer on this problem is welcome to reply!
"

A 'Doctor' writes " For treatment of 'starter motor removalitus' I
usually prescribe the fittment of a 'Holden' Straight 6 Motor, in =
either
179, 186 or 202 strength, which prevents unnecessary manifold removal.
However, great care is required when hot as it is a tight (very!)
squeeze. This fitment also cures 'lack of power' with no noticeable =
loss
of fuel consumption. Some patients have reported detecting improvements
in this area. Note:- possible side effects include transmission damage,
speeding tickets and soiled under garments (especially if standard 88"
brakes are used) Most of these side effects can be managed by
'sensitive' use of both the clutch and gas pedals "
Richard
1973 S3 SWB (with 202 Holden, std brakes and only 1 broken diff and
nothing else(so far!) in 4 yrs)(Hmm... maybe this means I've not been
trying hard enough!)
New Zealand

------------------------------

From: Elwyny <Elwyny@aol.com>
Date: Sun, 4 Jan 1998 17:09:21 EST
Subject: Lightweight Door Mirrors

Hi

I have a 1972 SIII hard top ex-uk millitary lightweight, it has one wing
mirror - off a maxi or something, but i would like to fit 90/110 style
wingmirrors.  Most people i ask dont know about fitting them or adapting them
in anyway

I hope someone can help as with only 1 ext. mirror on the drivers side its a
bit of a problem in traffic...

Thanks in advance

Elwyn York

------------------------------

From: Elwyny <Elwyny@aol.com>
Date: Sun, 4 Jan 1998 17:27:17 EST
Subject: Lightweight Door Mirrors

Hi

I have a 1972 SIII hard top ex-uk millitary lightweight, it has one wing
mirror - off a maxi or something, but i would like to fit 90/110 style door-
mirrors.  Most people i ask dont know about fitting them or adapting them in
anyway

I hope someone can help as with only 1 ext. mirror on the drivers side its a
bit of a problem in traffic...

Thanks in advance

Elwyn York

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 04 Jan 1998 19:20:12 -0500
From: Winn Bearden <wbearden@americus.net>
Subject: need 3.54 diffs!

Hi all,
The first day or so I enjoyed having 4.77 diffs in my hybrid because in low
range it would crawl like a snail.  Then I quickly realized that I can't afford
to drive the damn thing- it drinks gas like you won't believe!  The LT95 is
geared to run 3.54's so I think I'll try to find some.
    Does anyone out there have some 3.54 diffs lying around that I could buy or
maybe trade for?  I've got a lot of NADA 109 SW parts that I could trade; axles,
transmission(w/6-cyl. bellhousing!), etc.  I've even got the frame completely
repaired with new crossmember and new front horns, if anyone's interested.

Thanks,
--
Winn Bearden
P.O. Box 464
Americus, GA 31709
912-924-6513 (H)
912-928-4984 (CELL)

------------------------------

From: "Eyres, Richard RP" <Eyres.Richard.RP@bhp.com.au>
Subject: RE: need 3.54 diffs!
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 14:18:00 +1100 

"
Hi all,
The first day or so I enjoyed having 4.77 diffs in my hybrid because in
low
range it would crawl like a snail.  Then I quickly realized that I can't
afford
to drive the damn thing- it drinks gas like you won't believe!  The LT95
is
geared to run 3.54's so I think I'll try to find some.
    Does anyone out there have some 3.54 diffs lying around that I could
buy or
maybe trade for?  I've got a lot of NADA 109 SW parts that I could
trade; axles,
transmission(w/6-cyl. bellhousing!), etc.  I've even got the frame
completely
repaired with new crossmember and new front horns, if anyone's
interested.

Thanks,
 --
Winn Bearden
"

What about a high ratio transfer box ? I've got a Holden 202 motor in my
S3, with the std 4.77 diffs, great off road, but a real gas guzzler on
it. The next thing on my 'wish list' is a high ratio transfer box, which
will enable me to keep the current low ratio gearing while raising the
high ratio by about 30%. Sort of best of both worlds. Cost works out a
bit less than the allegedly fragile overdrive (here in NZ anyway) and is
avalible from David Ashcroft at Autoconversons(Autoconv@aol.com) in the
UK. Hang on, just noticed you're running an LT95, not a 'normal' series
box, but its probably worth enquiring. Me, I'm still saving, now almost
back to zero after Christmas! Oh well, one day....  (ususal disclaimers
apply etc..)
Richard 1973 S3 SWB
New Zealand

------------------------------

From: John Putnam <jdputnam@studiointhegrove.com>
Subject: RE: Win95 LR Stuff
Date: Sun, 4 Jan 1998 16:34:55 -0800
[digester: Removing section of:  Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="---- =_NextPart_000_01BD193B.318979E0" ]

Got mine, Thanks alot.

----------
From: 	Chuque Henry
Sent: 	Wednesday, December 31, 1997 6:23 AM
Subject: 	Win95 LR Stuff

Did everyone get the icons OK?  I only heard back from one person so I
thought I better check to make sure I got them to everyone.  Anyone have
suggestions or requests?  Hope you New Year brings you lots of Rover
joy!

-Q

------ =_NextPart_000_01BD193B.318979E0
[digester: Removing section of:  Content-Type: application/ms-tnef ]

------------------------------

From: NADdMD <NADdMD@aol.com>
Date: Sun, 4 Jan 1998 21:43:17 EST
Subject: Re: My Generator

In a message dated 98-01-04 14:18:31 EST, you write:

<< Chucque, by the time you switch to an alt, you'd have spent more in money
and
 cogitation, than just rebuilding the lucas. >>

This is exactly what I found when my generator went up.  New alt plus bracket
plus trying to get every thing in line (belt-wise) it was a lot cheaper to
rebuild the generator.  I'd have to burn up 3 gennies to make it cost
competitive.

Nate

------------------------------

From: Chuque Henry <ChuqueH@isco.com>
Subject: RE: My Generator
Date: Sun, 4 Jan 1998 21:07:32 -0600

A rebuilt gennie only cost $90, so I'll just do that then.

-Q

> ----------
> From: 	NADdMD[SMTP:NADdMD@aol.com]
> Reply To: 	lro@playground.sun.com
> Sent: 	Sunday, January 04, 1998 8:43 PM
> To: 	lro@playground.sun.com
> Subject: 	Re: My Generator

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 26 lines)]
> competitive.
> Nate

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 04 Jan 1998 19:24:27 -0800
From: "Christopher H. Dow" <dow@thelen.org>
Subject: Re: My Generator

If the only purpose is repair, then my e-buddy Nate speaks truth.  However, I'm
really glad I have an alternator with all the crap I've put on my IIA.  And yes,
it has been more expensive and more work, but tinkering with the Rover is my
hobby!

C

NADdMD wrote:
> << Chucque, by the time you switch to an alt, you'd have spent more in 
> <<money and cogitation, than just rebuilding the lucas. >>
 
> This is exactly what I found when my generator went up.  New alt plus 
> bracket plus trying to get every thing in line (belt-wise) it was a 
> lot cheaper to rebuild the generator.  I'd have to burn up 3 gennies 
> to make it cost competitive.

That's been my experience, but again, no regrets here.  I do, however, have a
solution that works great, and am writing up an even better one for my web
page.  I'll let you know when it's done.

C

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 4 Jan 1998 21:24:20 -0600
From: krebsfam@mail.iex.net (Jim Krebs)
Subject: Brake Backing Plates

I'm in the process of replacing the front brakes on my 1962 88.  One of the
backing plates has a very loose (as in wiggles around) bottom pivot.  All
the rest are tight.  Can the pivot be tightened?  Can it be used in this
condition?  Am I stuck buying a new backing plate?  Thanks in advance for
the help.

Jim Krebs
1962 88
1966 109

------------------------------

From: gehl@at.crane.navy.mil
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 18:21:46 +0000
Subject: Insulation Info Request

Dave Place et al.,
Keep us informed of your insulation progress.  I have looked at 
several types (all more $$$) but have always wondered how to apply 
it.  What glue do you settle on?  By closed cell, does this mean it 
will not eventually waterlog?  Sound deadening?  Tell all.  Mark

------------------------------

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