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msg | Sender | lines | Subject |
1 | bmc@syspac.com | 33 | Re: Prop shafted |
2 | Winn Bearden [wbearden@a | 14 | Major |
3 | john hess [jfhess@wheel. | 43 | heaters |
4 | "David Lee" [djflee@emai | 41 | V8 Heritage |
5 | "Dries Venter" [ventera@ | 30 | The Phantom lives where? |
6 | "Dries Venter" [ventera@ | 19 | V8 starter - must it be shielded? |
7 | NADdMD [NADdMD@aol.com> | 18 | Prop shaft update |
8 | "William L. Leacock" [wl | 12 | Roundf heater core |
9 | "Colin Marshall" [colmar | 21 | Finally got 1...um...3 |
10 | "FHYap" [FHYap@ix.netcom | 15 | Re: The Phantom lives where? |
11 | Dave Place [dplace@mb.sy | 20 | Heater and insulation for your Rover |
12 | "Con P. Seitl" [seitl@ns | 29 | Re: Heater and insulation for your Rover |
13 | "Ron Beckett" [hillman@b | 39 | Prop shafted |
14 | "Ron Beckett" [hillman@b | 50 | Slant 6 madness |
From: bmc@syspac.com Date: Sat, 03 Jan 1998 05:44:19 -0700 Subject: Re: Prop shafted Take the propshaft to a specialist (usually found in large town and cities of any good size.) They can weld a new style joint and fix the whole thing for generally the cost of another used shaft will cost with new UJ's fitted. Regards, Jon Nyhus Alexander P. Grice wrote: Nate wrote: when the sliding joint in a prop shaft goes bad, can it be replaced? Depends on what goes bad. By design, there was no zerk fitting on the front prop shaft. Rover reasoned that every time it got lubed, the front shaft would get pumped full of grease. This would cause "hydraulising"; when the front axle gest displaced by a bump, the shaft shortens and the compressed grease would blow out the seal. By comparison, the rear shaft gets lenghtened in the same situation - no worries. So the front shaft only has a bolt in the grease nipple hole. Yes, it can be disassembled. Unscrew the collar and *gently* remove the castelated fiber washer inside. Be forewarned. This washer is one part unavialable anywhere at any price. (It can be super-glued back together, however.) However, if the splines are worn/sloppy due to a lack of grease over the years, the whole shaft must be replaced. Cheers ------------------------------[ <- Message 2 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980104 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sat, 03 Jan 1998 12:39:46 -0500 From: Winn Bearden <wbearden@americus.net> Subject: Major > Does the Major have a hangover like the rest of us, or am I the only one who > hasn't gotten the list since New Year's? -- Winn Bearden P.O. Box 464 Americus, GA 31709 912-924-6513 (H) 912-928-4984 (CELL) ------------------------------[ <- Message 3 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980104 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sat, 3 Jan 1998 10:20:24 -0800 From: john hess <jfhess@wheel.dcn.davis.ca.us> Subject: heaters From: Thomas Spoto <tspoto@az.com> Subject: Re: Heaters/John The only heaters from Series IIA's I'm aware of were; 1) The little circular Smiths Heater, to left of centerline on the bulkhead. 2) The Kodiak, which was a North American option and took up most of the passenger (right side) foot well. Hi again, (my $0.02) My dormie has a rectangular Smiths heater mounted below the instrumental panel, on top of the tranny hump. It is about a foot wide, 10 inches hi and 2 inches thick. It was pictured in the old British Pacific catalog I had and listed for something like $1000. While pulling the engine for a rebuild, I had to pull the heater to get the floor boards out. A central fan recirculated air in the cabin, drawing no air from the outside. Small doors on the left or right end open and close. the standard corregated tubing was used to direct air from the heater core to the windshield for defrosting. Here in the great central valley of california, where the lowest T is about 35 (F) the heater is fine. Not that it warms up the whole vehicle mind you, but it does create a zone around the front seats of warmer than ambiant air. Alos, it will keep the front windows defrosted unless it's cold outside and you have three adults and three dogs (two of them Vislas(pointers)) in the dormie. cheers, John F Hess jfhess@wheel.dcn.davis.ca.us Land Rover Dormobile web pages: http://wheel.dcn.davis.ca.us/~jfhess/homepage.html 1968 Land Rover Dormobile "Elvis" 1960 swb pu "Stubby" (actually Katherine's), 1960 swb roadster "Slug" (Alex's) Slug needs everything, donations accepted ------------------------------[ <- Message 4 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980104 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "David Lee" <djflee@email.msn.com> Subject: V8 Heritage Date: Sat, 3 Jan 1998 15:29:38 -0000 A P (Sandy) Grice wrote >Spot on. The motor was actually discovered quite by accident. Rover >engineer William-Martin Hurst was touring a Mercury Marine (boatbuilding) >plant in the US when he literally stumbled across the little GM V-8 on the >floor. At that time, the "100 inch station wagon" project AKA the Range >Rover was in the design stages, with the Rover P-6 six cylinder slated as >the powerplant. As the V-8 was lighter, shorter and more powerful than the >P-6, Rover soon purchased the patent rights from GM... I think the chronology may be slightly out. The first car Rover put the V8 into was the P5B. (B for Buick) the P6 was certainly on the drawing board, possibly even in production; but I think the Range Rover was still a few years away. I could be wrong obviously. The P6 originally came with an ohc (a novelty at the time) 2 litre, 4 cylinder engine with a single SU carb. - My first car...sniff.......The addition of a second carb improved the performance dramatically, - my second car...sniff....sniff.... and boring it out to 2.2 litres improved the mid-range grunt. After that The V8 was put in with an auto box, and eventually in 3500S form with a 4 speed manual. - My third car...sniff...sob...sob..wonderful car! I don't believe it was ever produced with a 6 cylinder engine. I'm not sure but the P5s had a 6 cylinder at one point I think; Triumph (another BL subsidiary) certainly did, as of course did LR. Could it have been on of these? I'm sure the truth is out here somewhere. Dave Lee 1976 SIII 109 Safari 1955 Triumph TR2 Forres Scotland ------------------------------[ <- Message 5 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980104 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Dries Venter" <ventera@ilink.nis.za> Subject: The Phantom lives where? Date: Sat, 3 Jan 1998 19:53:39 +0200 `>*BUT*, I am now more confused as to where he might live. I've always `>assumed that it was in Africa, perhaps because of the animals. I've also `>assume it was in a piece of country which developed under British rule `>because of the style of the Jungle Patrol clothes etc. `I thought it was south america somewhere, but I couldn't be sure. (There `was a Phantom movie made here recently (not bad, but too short; I liked the `well-choreographed fighting) but I'm afraid I didn't pay that much attention `to details.) `>Tigers and lions feature in the comic strip, so it can't be set in the `>Americas. `Unless the artist is clueless. Hey, when last did you guys hear of dinosaurs living ANYwhere? He must be living on another planet, or maybe he got mixed up with Jurassic Farce and is living on an island somewhere off the South American coast. Maybe the one that Papillon escaped from? Now that would be good movie idea...the Phantom meets T. Rex while trying to escape from Devil's Island in an inflatable Land Rover... Dries Venter 1985 110 PUP V8 aka "The Yellow Submarine" ------------------------------[ <- Message 6 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980104 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Dries Venter" <ventera@ilink.nis.za> Subject: V8 starter - must it be shielded? Date: Sat, 3 Jan 1998 20:30:50 +0200 All this talk about starters has set me thinking. A friend, while looking at the underside of the Yellow Submarine noted that the strter motor is awfully close (like 1") to the R.H downpipe of the V8. He said performance in the long run would suffer because the starter's insides get cooked to a frazzle. The starter has been rebuilt already due to poor cranking speed and high current draw. He suggested trying to poot some sort of a shield ver the starter, bolted onto the starter retainng bolts (I suppose he meant sandwiched between the starter and the mounting flange) Any ideas/experiences on the subject? Dries Venter 1985 100 V8 PUP aka "The Yellow Submarine" ------------------------------[ <- Message 7 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980104 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: NADdMD <NADdMD@aol.com> Date: Sat, 3 Jan 1998 17:27:28 EST Subject: Prop shaft update Hi all, Talked with the local NAPA which also does driveline repairs and they about gagged when they heard the price of a new front prop shaft. "You bring a driveshaft that's not bent, and we can get it back together for a whole less than a new one.", they said. Price depends on the spline pattern. On another note, I have a propshaft that I thought one of the U joints was shot. Not the case! Just the wrong size circlip in the groove. I went with a slightly thicker circlip and it's as good as new. Anyone else ever see this? Nate ------------------------------[ <- Message 8 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980104 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sat, 03 Jan 1998 18:02:40 -0500 From: "William L. Leacock" <wleacock@pipeline.com> Subject: Roundf heater core John Hess writes re a round Smiths heater core. A similar round heater was fitted to the Morris Minor car and van. The core is actually the same dia but about 1 inch wider, can be fitted to the LR if the pipes are modified, there may be more sources for a Morris Minor core that for a Land Rover core. Bill Leacock ( Limey in exile ) 88 and 109 LR's and 89 RR ------------------------------[ <- Message 9 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980104 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Colin Marshall" <colmar@picknowl.com.au> Subject: Finally got 1...um...3 Date: Sun, 4 Jan 1998 12:14:48 +1030 G'day gang, I can now declare that I have proven my insanity! What started out as one 80'' has now turned into three 80"'s...that will teach me to go looking for parts! At the moment I've got Serial no. 26660853 sitting in the driveway, with two more to come from Kangaroo Island as soon as I can get down there from Adelaide. Are there any other 80" owners in South Australia?, as I'd like to take some photos to help with the restoration of these beasts. By the way, I watched a movie called "RACE the SUN",with James Belushi last night. It has a fairly flash Oz Ex Army Series 3 in it. Happy Repairing... Colin Marshall. ------------------------------[ <- Message 10 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980104 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "FHYap" <FHYap@ix.netcom.com> Subject: Re: The Phantom lives where? Date: Sat, 3 Jan 1998 20:39:11 -0800 > `>*BUT*, I am now more confused as to where he might live. I've always > `>assumed that it was in Africa, perhaps because of the animals. I remember reading Phantom comis back in the 60s and in my memory are scenes from Africa. I just checked and there is a Phantom FAQ at http://members.aol.com/tgoldberg/phantom.txt and the location is given as Central Africa. Frank ------------------------------[ <- Message 11 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980104 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sat, 03 Jan 1998 23:28:25 -0800 From: Dave Place <dplace@mb.sympatico.ca> Subject: Heater and insulation for your Rover To give my vehicle enough heat to make it usable in a Canadian winter, I have installed a rear heater. The original was from the 1979 Chev. Vandura Van. It comes with a three speed fan and all the cables and does a great job of heating the cab of my 88. I ran the hoses under the cab over the main cross member by the transmission and into the rear wheel arch on the drivers side. It works fine. I have my Rover well insulated, but this summer I am going to take some of the fibre glass out and put in the silver covered foam I saw at my local lumber yard. It comes in about 4 foot wide rolls and sells for about $4.00 a foot so that gives me about a $1 per foot. Not bad for price and it can be cut with scissors and gluded in. I think because of the aluminium foil covering it will keep engine bay heat out as well. It is only about 1/4" thick and has lots of air cells in it so I think it will be great for the roof. Dave VE4PN ------------------------------[ <- Message 12 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980104 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sun, 04 Jan 1998 03:14:34 -0800 From: "Con P. Seitl" <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca> Subject: Re: Heater and insulation for your Rover Dave Place wrote: > To give my vehicle enough heat to make it usable in a Canadian winter, I > have installed a rear heater. The original was from the 1979 Chev. > Vandura Van. It comes with a three speed fan and all the cables and > does a great job of heating the cab of my 88. I ran the hoses under the > cab over the main cross member by the transmission and into the rear > wheel arch on the drivers side. It works fine. I have my Rover well > insulated, but this summer I am going to take some of the fibre glass [ truncated by list-digester (was 17 lines)] > for the roof. > Dave VE4PN I've done the same thing. My heater has only one speed, high, but it puts out enough heat to bake your....butt. I have copper lines to under the back floor for safety, then switches to rubber hose under the floor right up to my heater core for flexibility and ease of replacement. I also scrounged a bunch of the silver covered foam from job-sites and plan to insulate the doors as well. You can glue this stuff about 5 layers thick, also deadens the noise. Just don't put it where there is alot of heat ie: near the exhaust if insulating from underneath. Also great under the rear floor mat about 2 layers thick. Con Seitl 1973 III 88 "Pig" ------------------------------[ <- Message 13 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980104 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Ron Beckett" <hillman@bigpond.com> Subject: Prop shafted Date: Sun, 4 Jan 1998 15:06:13 +1100 Nate wrote: >when the sliding joint in a prop shaft goes bad, can it be replaced? Alexander P. Grice replied: <<Yes, it can be disassembled. Unscrew the collar and *gently* remove the castelated fiber washer inside. Be forewarned. This washer is one part unavialable anywhere at any price. (It can be super-glued back together, however.) However, if the splines are worn/sloppy due to a lack of grease over the years, the whole shaft must be replaced. >> I just checked the Four Wheel Drives catalogue (Aussie firm) and they list a kit to repair your own prop shaft. Flanged yoke A$35 (US$22) Female slip joint complete with grease nipple, cap and seal A$60 (US$37). Specify universla size 2-15/16" or 3-7/32". Male stub shaft fits all props with around 2" OD prop tube 1948-1981 A$65 (US$40) Regards, Ron Beckett Emu Plains, NSW, Australia '86 Range Rover 4.6L auto (The Last Aquila) '71 Hillman Hunter Royal 660 1725cc manual '67 Hillman Gazelle 1725cc auto '67 Hillman Gazelle 1725cc manual check my home page at http://www.users.bigpond.com/hillman for Hillman and Rover ------------------------------[ <- Message 14 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980104 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Ron Beckett" <hillman@bigpond.com> Subject: Slant 6 madness Date: Sun, 4 Jan 1998 14:55:05 +1100 Ron wrote: >You can also get a kit for a Chrysler Valiant slant-6 hemi >engine (Plymouth Valiant in the USA). A mate of mine has >a SIIA LWB with a hemi and it goes like the wind. Russ Wilson wrote: >Ron, you can't leave everyone hanging like that. Yes I can 8-) >You have atleast a dozen people in the throws of slant-6 envy.... >Is someone still producing this conversion as a kit? Where >can this conversion be had?? It was a fairly common conversion back in the 70's down here in Australia. I'm not sure if Mark's 4WD Adaptors does a kit (check their site http://www.ozemail.com.au/~marks4wd). I recall my mate bought it in Darwin back in the 70's when he was on a round-Australia touring holiday. He also had to carry spare half-shafts when he put the hemi in. For more info, I'll have to ring my mate next week - he lives on Norfolk Island but the car is in Sydney. His SIIA on Norfolk is GM Holden 186ci powered. > I'm just another silly American that wants to go everywhere > fast....or at least faster. No different to the rest of us...... Regards, Ron Beckett Emu Plains, NSW, Australia '86 Range Rover 4.6L auto (The Last Aquila) '71 Hillman Hunter Royal 660 1725cc manual '67 Hillman Gazelle 1725cc auto '67 Hillman Gazelle 1725cc manual check my home page at http://www.users.bigpond.com/hillman for Hillman and Rover ------------------------------[ <- Message 15 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 980104 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
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