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msg | Sender | lines | Subject |
1 | Garret Scott [scottgs@us | 31 | Re:HELP! I've killed them both |
2 | "K. John Wood" [jwrover@ | 51 | Re: HELP! I've killed them both |
3 | "S. Vels" [dko5319@vip.c | 24 | Re: weak IIa clutch |
4 | "Peter Monk" [monk@calyp | 20 | IIA Heat Shield |
5 | Steve Rochna [75347.452@ | 25 | SIII Odometer |
6 | Joseph Broach [broach@ut | 24 | Thanks! I've revived them both (...and lights) |
Date: Sat, 27 Dec 1997 11:35:49 -0500 From: Garret Scott <scottgs@usit.net> Subject: Re:HELP! I've killed them both Joseph, I've done the same thing before and it was the rubber gasket which seals the top of the sediment bowl against the pump housing. The gasket gets old, hard and full of little craks and just wont seal back. I believe the pump will easily suck air around that joint if it is leaking, so there is no leakage of fuel. When I had the problem 17 years ago, I cut a new one out of an old inner tube, got me by for about 5 years, until I took it off to clean it out again. When I took it off, it was awfully soft and not usable. So this is a "try at your own risk" fix. If you are in really dire need, I happen to have a spare old original fuel pump with a new rebiuld kit on it. I'm sure the gaskets/seal would still be good, however the pump itself is worn out and leaks oil. Garret Scott Knoxville, TN scottgs@usit.net 423.531.4060 ------------------------------[ <- Message 2 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971228 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "K. John Wood" <jwrover@colo-net.com> Subject: Re: HELP! I've killed them both Date: Fri, 26 Dec 1997 23:38:23 -0700 Joseph! Take a deep breath, we'll get you through this! First remove the sed bowl again and manually activate the throtle assembly on the carb. This will pull all fuel and air between the fuel pump and carb out of the line.] Next, remove the fuel line at the carb. Then replace the bowl and prime the pump until you have fuel at the end of the open line. you can allow a very small amount to flow direct from the line into the carb bowl. This will prime your carb. Then replace the line on the carb itself and activate the linkage again until you hear and see fuel through the carb jets. Then give it atry! Good Luck! Yours' K. John Wood Event Co- Solihull Society ---------- > From: Joseph Broach <broach@utkux.utcc.utk.edu> > To: lro@playground.sun.com > Subject: HELP! I've killed them both > Date: Friday, December 26, 1997 5:58 PM > Well, since there is a chance of snow in the next few days I wanted the [ truncated by list-digester (was 11 lines)] > rovers in top shape. While doing some routine maintenance, I thought it > would be a good idea to clean the sediment bowls. The red rover cranked up > and made it about half way down the driveway, the white rover didn't get > out of its parking spot. I have done this before with no problems, but now, > no amount of priming will get fuel to the carb. I assume there's just some > air in there but how do I get it out? Please help me before I have to > explain to anyone else how I singlehandedly immobilized two landies. > regards, > joseph broach > knoxville, tn > '67 IIa 88" > '68 IIa 88" ------------------------------[ <- Message 3 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971228 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "S. Vels" <dko5319@vip.cybercity.dk> Date: Sat, 27 Dec 1997 21:39:22 +0001 Subject: Re: weak IIa clutch > From: Joseph Broach <broach@utkux.utcc.utk.edu> > Subject: weak IIa clutch If you have an assistant try to do this: Pepare the bleeding process (hose, tools etc) while the assistant pumps the clutch 20 - 40 times. When you are ready, tell the assistant to stop pumping with the pedal down. There is now pressure in the system. Loosen the bleed screw. You will hear the fluid shoot out very fast taking small airbubbles with it. Repeat the procedure 6 - 12 times with 20 pumps before each shot. If this doesn't help, the problem is not air. The hose sometimes pops off when bleeding this way. You might want to wear eye protection. good luck sv/aurens ------------------------------[ <- Message 4 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971228 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Peter Monk" <monk@calypso.math.udel.edu> Date: Sat, 27 Dec 1997 21:43:58 -0500 Subject: IIA Heat Shield Hi I have recently become the owner of a IIa SWB 2.25L Land Rover (suffix D). I think it should have a heat shield on the manifold, but there isn't one there. What are the pros and cons to leaving it off? Thanks Peter -- Address: Department of Mathematical Sciences | Phone: 302-831-1873 University of Delaware | FAX : 302-831-4511 Newark, DE 19716 USA WWW : http://www.math.udel.edu/~monk ------------------------------[ <- Message 5 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971228 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sat, 27 Dec 1997 21:41:17 -0500 From: Steve Rochna <75347.452@compuserve.com> Subject: SIII Odometer All: Yesterday I took apart my inoperative odometer (if it jams, force it...) and found the reason for it's inoperativity. There is a brass axle runni= ng through the numbered gears and assorted hardware that turns with them and= this had shifted and come out of it's pivot/hub on one end. A simple fix= to put it back and now it works 4.0 but what is supposed to keep it in there? I didn't see a groove for a circlip or a hole for a pin and I didn't hear or see any parts fall out of the case when opened. Does anybo= dy have any experience with this or any guesses? This, however does not account for the knocking up front and without attention I'm afraid the odometer will simply be for decoration. Thanks for the help. Steve Rochna - Does anybody have an engine they can spare? ------------------------------[ <- Message 6 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971228 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sun, 28 Dec 1997 00:06:10 -0500 (EST) From: Joseph Broach <broach@utkux.utcc.utk.edu> Subject: Thanks! I've revived them both (...and lights) Thanks are in order for all of you that mailed in response to my fuel system problem. The most popular answer was correct in one case (leak around sediment bowl seal). The other had a leaky seal at the fuel pump. After rigging up a temporary fix it's running again, too. Thanks again for saving me the emabarassment of two rovers stuck around the property (I like to keep at least one running so that I can tow the other around when I foul something up). Now it's time to tackle the rear lights. Both have had a trailer harness plumbed in with wire nuts by undisclosed PO's ;-<. So on the '67 I have only 1 turn signal, no brake lights, no taillights; on the '68 I have 1 taillight and both turn signals flashing in strange Lucas patterns. Where the heck do these buggers ground? Well, I've rambled on again... always learning, joseph broach knoxville, tn '67 88" (alpine white, limestone, marine blue, poppy red, pastel green, and darn proud of it) '68 88" (poppy red and aluminum) ------------------------------[ <- Message 7 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971228 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
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