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From: "MALCOLM R FORBES" <MALCOLMF@prodigy.net>
Subject: autoresponses
Date: Tue, 2 Dec 1997 18:24:42 -0500

It looks like there is a cross the pond Brit/Yank duet singing  "Anything
You Can Do I Can Do Dumber".  At least with Sanna I found a couple of good
recipes for Viennese Mocha Nut & Rich Cinnamon Raisin bread.  If anyone is
interested I will post them for you.  

More information can be obtained from:
Ann Parker, Director of Consumer Affairs and Nutritionist at SACO Foods,
Inc., offers helpful hints and tips on all SACO Foods' products, including
Dolci frutta dipping chocolate, SACO Premium Baking Cocoa and SACO Cultured
Buttermilk Blend. She can be reached at the Bake Your Best Hotline, MÐF,
1-800-373-7226, or by e-mail at SacoFoods@aol.com. with helpful tips for
powdered buttermilk recipes.  

What do you suppose ICL CFM Corporate OfficePower has to offer?  

Cheers, 
Malcolm

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 03 Dec 1997 08:15:55 -0400
From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: LR tools

Con P. Seitl wrote:
> john cranfield wrote:
> > Allan Smith wrote:
> > > Hi all - is this a LRNA thing?
>          [ truncated by lro-lite (was 14 lines)]
> > Dealer. Perhaps you LR dealer will get them for you.
> >        John and Muddy (who only needs the tool behind the wheel)
> > I could order from them But they are wholesale only.
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 14 lines)]
> Con Seitl
> 1973 III 88 "Pig"
Not What but Who
John and Muddy (who always knows what I'm talking about)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 03 Dec 1997 06:52:50 -0700
From: Jon Nyhus <bmc@syspac.com>
Subject: Re: Source for wiring?

Jeff Goldman wrote:

>   Anyone know of a mail-order source or otherwise in the
> US that sells
> wiring products? I'm looking to re-wire my SIIA for better
> quality and
> efficiency (relays, etc.) I'd like to stay with the
> original Land Rover
> wire colours, if possible. Anyone know of multi-coloured
> wire sources?

British Wiring in Illinois has wiring looms made by Sparks
in England.  Call Lesley and if they dont have it they can
get it. We install about one loom a month and these are some
of the best aftermarket around.  708.481.9050.  Good luck

Regards,

Jon Nyhus
British Motor Classics,  Ltd.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 3 Dec 1997 09:04:09 -0500
From: ecrover@midcoast.com (East Coast Rover Co.)
Subject: Re: Mike Smith has got to be kidding

>Re: Grow up and give up:
>I disagree. Some questions were asked by individuals, and no good answers
>were given before Mike stormed off in a snit after calling all of us some
>rather rude things.

Hey all, While I'm sitting right here, I guess I'll keep this going. It
must be very boring to those of you who could care less (most of you I'd
bet)... Considering I just typed the word Rovers North were I probably
shouldn't have, and did explain it. oops.
Last year about this time I left this list, for the sole reason that
attempts to explain my side were always dumped on as I run a Land Rover
restoration business. Therefore for some reason my outlook on a subject,
such as on people who advertise illegal imported 110's, seems to draw a lot
more fire, then if I was just a guy with a RR and a 109. I've come to live
with this, no problem. The cheapo shots and name calling from people I have
never met or spoken to still gets to me, but I'm trying not to get in a
"snit". As far as Alan's demand for an explanation. Any of you who own a
company, or are high up in the company you work for will understand that
not ALL customers walk away happy. We try our best, but it can't be done
all the time. Another eastern US Rover company XXXX XXXX (see... I'm
learning) just got sued for mileage tampering, and refund the cost of a
Rover, and was taken to court. So it isn't that my organization is SO
horrible. Ask anyone, DAP, RN, Atl Brit, and someone has a problem with one
or all of them. It is merely a fact of business. Out of all our customers
in the last 5 years in business, we messed up, or had misunderstanding with
about 4 or 5 people. I feel bad that those situations couldn't be worked
out, but overall, as a business I think that is a great average. So to SL,
BN, BS, and CW... I apologize for your troubles, and am sorry we could not
reach an agreement, but those are the only people that left ECR without an
ear to ear grin that wouldn't go away. To anyone else who has "issues"...
we have never worked for you, and never taken money from you, so you
shouldn't judge ECR. You can judge its manager (me). I hear rumors all the
time about...  we did this to him and they did this... facts are that ECR
is a small dedicated restoration company, and probably about 99 percent of
the people we have supposedly "screwed", we actually never worked for. Our
client list is very very small when compared to places like Rovers North or
Brit. Bulldog. We just don't sell to the average rover owner, we build
custom one of Rovers and other vintage 4x4s.
So to end this completely boring matter for the majority of the people on
this list. I am a guy named Mike. Nasty things you say about me aren't fun,
but I'll take it just like evryone else on the list does. Saw Uncle Rog got
a good one too. If you have problems with a company I manage, ECR, call or
email Debbie here at the shop, she is our customer rep., and she'll work
out how we can make your problem go away, and make you a happy customer
again.

>And as far as taking his ball and going home - there are plenty of other
>balls in this game.
>were given before Mike stormed off in a snit after calling all of us some

Never professed to be the great and powerful OZ, just like to keep up with
what is going on, and the digest is sometimes a good way to do that. ECR is
a corporation that has 6 people in it, I don't speak for it, or them. I am
just Mike, and my "balls" are still here. ;-)

Now funny thing.. I have never met Alan, had any dealings with him with
money or Rovers, never seen him, nor heard about him, but yet he seems to
have a very firm opinion of me. I think that people should maybe know a bit
more about the people they flame and make opinions of. I like to get to
know a person first, then judge what he or she is like. What if the people
that get slagged off on this list happens to know 3 martial arts and weight
in at about 200 pounds. Yikes! :-)
>          Alan R.
>balls in this game.

Have a great day all, you too Alan R., eventhough you think I'm an a** and
you have never even met me.

and yes... my email sinature says ECR, that is because I use this same
account for all ECR's email stuff, as I am the only one in the shop that
like to use the computer. If I could figure out how to turn it off only
when I post to the list, I would.

Best to all, have a great day!

From: Mike Smith,  EAST COAST ROVER CO.
*Land Rover and Vintage 4X4 Specialists*
21 Tolman Road, Warren, ME (USA) 04864
207.594.8086 phone  207.594.8120 fax
http://www.eastcoastrover.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 3 Dec 1997 09:07:55 -0500
From: ecrover@midcoast.com (East Coast Rover Co.)
Subject: Re: Source for wiring?

British Wiring in Illinois is one othe better sources, talk to Lesley.
708-481-9050.  ECR uses these harnesses exclusively, and have never had any
trouble with them.
Best to all,

From: Mike Smith,  EAST COAST ROVER CO.
*Land Rover and Vintage 4X4 Specialists*
21 Tolman Road, Warren, ME (USA) 04864
207.594.8086 phone  207.594.8120 fax
http://www.eastcoastrover.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 3 Dec 1997 9:03:54 -0500
From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Subject: Re: Source for wiring?

Check with Harnesses Unlimited, advertising in Hemmings Motor news. They 
carry all the restoration wiring products you could possibly need. Good 
blokes...helped me with the old Willys station wagons.

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon,
'81 Honda Goldwing 1100 Standard:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Wed, 03 Dec 97 09:09:31 EST
Subject: Re: Source for wiring?

>  Anyone know of a mail-order source or otherwise in the US that sells
>wiring products?

British Wiring 708 481 9050
20449 Ithaca
olympic Fields IL 60461

they have all the connectors, proper wire colors etc.
They also sell complete harnesses and may even make a custom harness based 
on an original. They're SIII harnesses have the wiring for the reverse 
lights and hazards unlike the genuine ones, or so they tell me. I can't 
speak for the quality since I didn't buy anything, but they were willing to 
give me a sizable discount for buying all three pieces. I belive they 
supply the wiring that BP sells. They have a pretty good catalog too.
If you want nice relays, than check out a Hella catalog. They have all 
sorts of goodies.

later
DaveB

------------------------------

Date: 3 Dec 1997 09:23:58 -0400
From: "LT J Jackson" <lt_j_jackson@unixlink.uscga.edu>
Subject: Overdrive and Overfilled?

First off:

It seems that the list is going through the "troubles" again (it must be
related to Christmas - wasn't it this time last year, too?) - the rebirth of
the Mike Smith/ECR flamewars;  teeth-gnashing and hand-wringing over the
future misadventures of some rich b**tard with 40 grand to drop on a pile of
parts that may or may not comprise the innards of a D110.  (BTW - as a federal
employee of an agency which works closely with US Customs, trust me:  Unless
you are sheathing your illegal LR parts in condoms, forcing them up your anus
and entering the country through Miami international , Customs is *not* overly
concerned.   The gov't - despite claims to the contrary - is still reactive,
not proactive (thank God):  When 60 Minutes does a story on 3 multicultural
orphan children plummeting off a cliff to their flaming deaths in a Scout
leaders illegal, poorly-reassembled D110 - THEN we'll have problems. )  

And now the question:  Will someone clear up the mystery of the Fairey
overdrive dipstick mark - does it signify max level or min level?  

TIA,

Jeff Jackson
73 SIII 88" 
Waterford, CT

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 3 Dec 1997 09:42:49 -0500
From: ecrover@midcoast.com (East Coast Rover Co.)
Subject: Re: Overdrive and Overfilled?

>And now the question:  Will someone clear up the mystery of the Fairey
>overdrive dipstick mark - does it signify max level or min level?

Jeff, The OD holds .4 liters. We have always used ther mark on the stick as
the "correct" level. I'm sure that is right, as all the OD's we have put in
have not suffered from lack of oil over time. I'd be interested to know if
this is the min. mark. (I hope not!) Just looked it up in the OD manual...
it does not say.
Thanks for being a "happy" customer Jeff. Hope the Rover is going well.
Best to you and to all.

From: Mike Smith,  EAST COAST ROVER CO.
*Land Rover and Vintage 4X4 Specialists*
21 Tolman Road, Warren, ME (USA) 04864
207.594.8086 phone  207.594.8120 fax
http://www.eastcoastrover.com

------------------------------

From: Scott Cousens <scousens@MICROSOFT.com>
Subject: RE: Illegal Importers: Good or bad?
Date: Wed, 3 Dec 1997 06:41:15 -0800 

1. I dont think this will affect old cars being imported. I think it will
have more of an effect on kit cars in general. A whole lot more people will
be affected than rover owners at that point.
2. Buyer beware. If you are going to take this guy up on his deal, beware
that you may get stung.
3. Whether its worth stopping him depends on whether he gets any takers. My
guess is that noone will take him up on the offer. I thought about it (I'm
one of those that found the loophole, explored it), but ultimately feel the
cost risk is too great. Its probably a better deal to grab one of the NAS
D110's, that are actually on the market.
4. Will the gov't actually mandate that old cars cant run here - hopefully
not. But I think that there are a whole lot more influencing factors here
than a couple people driving non NAS defenders.

My $.02 on this matter.
-scott

> ----------
> From: 	Uncle Roger[SMTP:sinasohn@ricochet.net]
> Could this happen?  That's the question.  If it's a possibility, how
> likely
> is it?  Do we need to protect ourselves by stopping this importer guy?  Or
> do we feel we can safely let him do his thing and we won't be affected?

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Wed, 3 Dec 1997 09:41:31 -0500
Subject: Re: Overdrive and Overfilled?

Ah, finally, a question to answer....8*)

The marking on the dipstick, as far as I can figure from conversations with
Superwinch in the UK and the lack-of-manual, is supposed to be the max.
level when screwed-in with a gasket in place.

Personally, I use it as max level with the dipstick unscrewed - this
results in a bit of oil going out the breather on lonmger trips despite the
vent hose, but I don't care - I'm leery enough of the lousy oil capacity on
these damned things.

          ajr

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 03 Dec 1997 10:05:35 -0500
From: "richard a. nicotra" <nicotra@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: 3.54 diff question

I am going to call local salvage yards and try to find a set of RR diffs
for my ser III. Does anybody know what Range Rover years will bolt right on
to my axle?

thanks,

rick

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 3 Dec 1997 10:26:35 -0500
From: ecrover@midcoast.com (East Coast Rover Co.)
Subject: Re: 3.54 diff question

>I am going to call local salvage yards and try to find a set of RR diffs
>for my ser III. Does anybody know what Range Rover years will bolt right on
>to my axle?

Anything up to 1993 is 10 spline and will fit. 1994 on is 24 spline and
will not.
Be careful using 3.54's with a stock 2.25 SIII. Some of those on the list
who have done it might have something to say about this. It will mess up
your low range crawl, and might make other driving problems. Maybe an
overdrive is a better way to go... then you can have both worlds? Just a
thought, you might have that covered already.
best to all, see ya, spending too much time in front of the comuter today. ;-)

From: Mike Smith,  EAST COAST ROVER CO.
*Land Rover and Vintage 4X4 Specialists*
21 Tolman Road, Warren, ME (USA) 04864
207.594.8086 phone  207.594.8120 fax
http://www.eastcoastrover.com

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Wed, 03 Dec 97 10:16:26 EST
Subject: Re: Overdrive and Overfilled?

>.And now the question:  Will someone clear up the mystery of the Fairey
>overdrive dipstick mark - does it signify max level or min level?  

If there's oil in the notch, you're ok. If there aint, put soem in. If its alot 
higher than the notch than it'll just end up all over the back door, or if you 
are lucky enough to have a soft top and its rolled up, the back of your head. 
And your girlfriend/wife's too.

later
Dave

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Wed, 03 Dec 97 10:24:33 EST
Subject: Re: 3.54 diff question

>I am going to call local salvage yards and try to find a set of RR diffs
>for my ser III. Does anybody know what Range Rover years will bolt right on
>to my axle?

they should all fit, but are you sure you want to do that?. I can't imagine the 
little 2.25 is going to be able to pull the high gearing. Sure it'll go, but 
have you ever been out on the highway with 7.50/16's, and an overdrive. Bog down
city on those hills baby, and you can't *disengage* diffs...
spend your money on an overdrive instead.
by the way I'm pretty sure the rr diff is a 24 spline carrier which means you 
need late SIII axles.

 There are I beleive 3 types of axle

 SII-IIa early III 10 splines inner/outer
later SIII 10 i/24 o or the other way around
24 inner/outer don't know if these go on Series at all.
rr, defender, and disco axles are longer. 
my 2 scents

later
daveB

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 03 Dec 1997 10:14:38 -0500
Subject: Re(2): Illegal Importers: Good or bad?
From: Jules@learnlink.emory.edu (Sean P. Murphy)

sinasohn@ricochet.net,Internet writes:
>(But first, a little on topic question: Am I the only one who is somewhat
>worried about what might happen as a result of what the ad in question
>represents?)

Yes, apparently.  The law says that you can import car parts.  How many
Rovers in this country have frames, body panels, roof racks, suspension,
engines, etc. that were imported to replace crapped out ones?  Is any
1960's Rover anything but a collection of parts?  So the data plates say
that it was once a legally imported vehicle.  But that Series III tranny
in the Series II body shell isn't exactly the same, is it?  There are tons
of people *already* importing parts collections and assembling vehicles. 
The facts are that this is just as legal as taking all of the spares you
ahev sitting in your driveway and putting together another vehicle.  If
your state allows you to register said vehicle, than it is, by definition
LEGAL.  If you import a 110 bodyshell and a 90 engine and put them
together, which do you have?  What is the problem with this?  If people
want to take the risks of importation, let them.  The government hardly
cares one whit about what the owners a few hundred vehicles do.  They will
NOT change the laws nationwide to ban imports based on the actions of a
few companies or individuals who choose to take advantage of the law. 
Import and Export are the lifeblood of the economy and changes like that
simply won't happen overnight.  Methinks there's too much paranoia
floating about.  I'd be quite happy with a gray market 110 TDI.  I don't
want a $50,000 one, though.  <GRIN>

Sean P. Murphy
Project Director, LearnLink
Emory University

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 02 Dec 1997 22:22:53 -0800
From: Blair Gillespie <BlairG@fix.net>
Subject: Re: Source for wiring?

Hi,
	I am planning to re-wire my 88 with a wiring board and use custom labeled
wired that we use and sell for hot rods. These kits are nice because they
up grade the fuses to blade style and offer more options for wiring. 
	I am not going to worry to much about original look of the wiring. I will
just be happy having all my gauges work.
Rover On,
Blair
Blair Gillespie
San Luis Obispo 
California USA

1988 Range Rover
1972 SIII 88
1967 HD FLH
1940 Ford Pick Up

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 03 Dec 1997 11:23:32 -0500 (EST)
From: Tre McCroskey <TMCCROSKEY@CENTER.COLGATE.EDU>
Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

Anyone had problems with the power steering boxes on Defenders?  Our 110 has
very loose steering and the dealer claims that we need a whole new steering 
box and drop arm.  The rover is only 5 years old!   Any advice would be great!

Tre McCroskey
Flatland Rover Society
'93  110

------------------------------

From: cascardo@ix.netcom.com
Date: Wed, 03 Dec 1997 11:33:13 -0500
Subject: Side compartments

The other day I was watching a program that featured a LR (Defender or
late series) that had locking external compartments added just behind
the doors.
Does anyone have any information on these.  Also, does LR publish any
documentation on custom features available from the factory (military,
comercial, or otherwise).

Thanks.
Lucas

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 03 Dec 1997 12:44:21 -0400
From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Side compartments

cascardo@ix.netcom.com wrote:
> The other day I was watching a program that featured a LR (Defender or
> late series) that had locking external compartments added just behind
> the doors.
> Does anyone have any information on these.  Also, does LR publish any
> documentation on custom features available from the factory (military,
> comercial, or otherwise).

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 11 lines)]
> Thanks.
> Lucas
Gee Lucas I hope you don't get too pi**ed off with all the Lucas Bashing
on this List
,         John and Muddy(who is a Lucas supporter)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 3 Dec 1997 12:14:32 -0500
From: ecrover@midcoast.com (East Coast Rover Co.)
Subject: Re: Source for wiring?

>Hi,
>        I am planning to re-wire my 88 with a wiring board and use custom
>labeled
>wired that we use and sell for hot rods. These kits are nice because they
>up grade the fuses to blade style and offer more options for wiring.
>        I am not going to worry to much about original look of the wiring.
>I will
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 11 lines)]
>Blair
>Blair Gillespie

Blair,
We just finished a 1946 CJ2a custom J**p for a Rover client. He supplied us
with a harness from "Painless Wiring". Although it did give us a nice fuse
box, and newer type systems for the alt., I found the entire mess to be,
well... a mess. It did work in the end, but being able to trouble shoot and
re-wire an 88 in just a few hours, I think, if you want ease, and are not
planning a bunch of electricl upgrades, you'd be better served to stick
with a new Rover harness. Just my thoughts, after doing one of each. I find
the Rover harness much easier than the painless system.

From: Mike Smith,  EAST COAST ROVER CO.
*Land Rover and Vintage 4X4 Specialists*
21 Tolman Road, Warren, ME (USA) 04864
207.594.8086 phone  207.594.8120 fax
http://www.eastcoastrover.com

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Wed, 3 Dec 1997 12:13:56 -0500
Subject: Re: Side compartments

I've seen these - the LR Wolf prototype had them.

Seems to me a competent sheet-metal worker could add these to just about
any Landie - my 109 has top-opening ones in the rear of the box, and I've
been tempted to add them to the front of the box also using the spare-tyre
cutouts that are already in the upper wheel wells.

Dunno if this helps, but take a look at your car and no doubt you could
find a place to add them.

          aj"98-pound weaking with a shillealeagh!"r

------------------------------

Subject: Re: Steering boxes
Date: Wed, 3 Dec 1997 09:14:49 -0800 (PST)
From: "Michael Fredette" <mfredett@ichips.intel.com>

 
 Anyone had problems with the power steering boxes on Defenders?  Our 110 has
 very loose steering and the dealer claims that we need a whole new steering 
 box and drop arm.  The rover is only 5 years old!   Any advice would be great!
 
 Tre McCroskey
 Flatland Rover Society
 '93  110
 
Tre,

   Uh, that would be a big yes for me. My 94 D90's steering got REALLY sloppy
 after the 2nd or 3rd time off road during one of our Northwest Challenge's
 here in Oregon. By loose, I mean 1/5 to 1/4 turn of the wheel before anything
 moved at the other end. It was very noticeable off road, going over sharp bumps
 would give very sharp bump steer feedbacks, accompanied by LOUD slapping noises
 from the steering box. A new steering box (under warranty) fixed things for a
 while, until the next 2nd or 3rd off road stint caused the same problem. Again
 a new steering box under warranty, and this one held up for the next two years
 till I sold the D90 a few months ago. Now, my 101FC is twenty years old and it's
 steering is just fine. I'm sure Dixon is sniggering, but I have a rather sour
 taste for new LR products and thier longevity when subjected to repeated hard
 off roading. Not to mention the 7500 mile major service interval. At $250 a throw.
 Then the 15k and 30k services at $500 and $800 respectively. I just don't understand
 the need for these expenses when my wife drives a Toy Land Crusher, All-Wheel Drive,
 viscous coupling, locking diffs front and rear, blah blah blah. We change the oil
 every 3-4k and it's FIRST dealer service was at 30k miles, and cost $129.99.
 By contrast, the 101 has cost me elbow grease, and is a LOT more fun to bomb around 
 in.

Rgds
Mike Fredette
Portland, OR.
101FC and now sans D90

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 03 Dec 1997 07:07:47 -1000
From: Faye and Peter Ogilvie <ogilvi@hgea.org>
Subject: Re: 1968 Series 2A engine stalling

	You have a fuel delivery problem.  Start at tank fuel probe and work your
way to engine looking for crud in the line or anything else that  will
restrict flow.  My 88 developed severe crud problems in the tank when laid
up for a rebuild.  Flushing tank with water for hours had no effect.  I
installed a cheap plastic filter at the tank and kept the tank exposed so I
could change the filter easily.  At first it was daily then slowly
stretched out so I've now gone a year and just removed the filter and
buttoned it back up, hopefully for good.  Many filters, many months, and a
lot of work cleaning out the congestion have finally worked the crud out of
the system.  You will probably have to disassemble the carburetor as it may
be contaminated also.
	It could also be caused by vapor lock in the fuel line.  Insulation and/or
an electric fuel pump will cure this but be careful that the fuel pump out
put pressure does not overpower the carb float valve flooding the engine
with fuel.

At 09:57 AM 12/2/97 PST, you wrote:
>I have recently finished rebuilding a 1968 Series 2A 88" , 2.25 litre gas 
>Rover.  I am experiencing the following problem and am stumped as to 
>what the solution might be.  It starts and runs fine, until it reaches a 
>certain temperature, at which point it dies (usually around 10-15 
>minutes).  Once it cools down, it will run great for another 10 minutes.  It 
>will always start up right after, but as soon as any throttle is applied it 

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 18 lines)]
>Roland Klein
>1968 Series IIA 88" Station Wagon

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 03 Dec 1997 12:48:05 -0500
From: Jeff Goldman <roverboy@gis.net>
Subject: Re: 3.54 diff question

>I am going to call local salvage yards and try to find a set of RR diffs
>for my ser III. Does anybody know what Range Rover years will bolt right on
>to my axle?

  Sort of along these lines. I've been hearing responses indicating the
3.54 gearing is really too tall for the 2.25 petrol. Anyone have opinions
on the KAM 3.9, 4.1, or 4.2 ratios? Seems to me the midrange would offer a
better compromise both on-road and off, while being stronger. I keep
hearing stories of O/Ds going south after a while (relatively short while),
and there's the notorious lubrication issues. Sure these things can be
alleviated by stringent maintenance and constant attention, but isn't an
O/D really not able to handle it in the long run? This may be a "full of
crap" statement brought on by paranoia, but the KAM gears run roughly the
same cost as the O/D solution. Thoughts?

Jeff G.

Boston, MA
1971 88" Series IIA Land Rover - needing frame
1990 Range Rover County - hybrid fodder (ask about parts)
1990 Eagle Talon TSi AWD - the anomaly, albeit a competently quick 4x4
1991 Range Rover Hunter - basically OME-ified

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 03 Dec 1997 12:43:17 -0800
From: matt <nelsml73@snyoneva.cc.oneonta.edu>
Subject: gear ratios

Sorry for reposting but I didn't get any responses

can anyone provide me with the s2a gearbox&transfer case gear ratios 

and the method for determining compound gearing?(tranny-transfer-diffs)

I've got the infor for several other applications and just want this for
comparison's sake.

thanks 
Matt

------------------------------

From: "John McMaster" <john@chiaroscuro.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 3 Dec 1997 18:11:44 +0000
Subject: Re: 3.54 diff question

> I keep hearing stories of O/Ds going south after a while
> (relatively short while), and there's the notorious lubrication
> issues. Sure these things can be alleviated by stringent
> maintenance and constant attention, but isn't an O/D really not
> able to handle it in the long run? 

I have had my o/d from new. It has done over 60K miles with a 4
litre diesel (towing, off road etc) and now suffers a 3.5 V8 off road.  Never broken a thing
and it has not been treated lightly ;-)

cheers

john
______________________
John McMaster
john@chiaroscuro.co.uk

green/purple 110/Massey Ferguson

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 3 Dec 1997 13:20:37 -0500 (EST)
From: Russ Wilson <rwilson@usaor.net>
Subject: Re: Overdrive and Overfilled?

it'll just end up all over the back door, or if you
>are lucky enough to have a soft top and its rolled up, the back of your head.
>And your girlfriend/wife's too.

The last time I saw the top of Cassandra's head there wasn't any oil on
it....So are we to believe that you are up on your OD maint.???

woooo hooooo   Did you get Pete's address for me yet??

Russ Wilson
Leslie Bittner

Fort Pitt Land Rover Group
Pittsburgh, Pa.

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Wed, 3 Dec 1997 13:30:10 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re:  Side compartments

In a message dated 12/3/97 12:31:27 PM, you wrote:

>The other day I was watching a program that featured a LR (Defender or
>late series) that had locking external compartments added just behind
>the doors.

Military 2 door109s had them for 5 gallon jerrycans.

pat
93 "legal" 110

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Wed, 03 Dec 97 13:43:30 EST
Subject: Re[2]: Overdrive and Overfilled?

>The last time I saw the top of Cassandra's head there wasn't any oil on
>it....So are we to believe that you are up on your OD maint.???

sorry, Russ, I've been a little distracted, what with your MOM spending so much 
time with me...
all that gear oil in HER hair makes it hard to grab onto...

>>woooo hooooo   Did you get Pete's address for me yet??

yes, its tattoed on your mom's ass. Im sure you'll see it when THE MOVIE comes 
out...

woo-hoo

Dave

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 3 Dec 1997 14:01:09 -0500 (EST)
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------------------------------

From: "K. John Wood" <jwrover@colo-net.com>
Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest
Date: Wed, 26 Nov 1997 07:45:18 -0700

Dear Tre,

It would seem that if you are still under 40K this should be covered by
warrenty.
However, If not I'd have to say that this sort of thing happens with Crummy
vehicles...Maybe you should sell it to me at a reduced rate and I will take
the worry off your hands!! :^) Ha! Ha!

If it's not under warrenty take a look at it and see if you feel
comforatable doing the work yourself. The steering is not overly difficult
to deal with. Call Seth at BritishBulldog for parts. 888-874-3888. Even if
you have the dealer do the work. Parts are cheeper elswhere.

Yours'
K. John Wood
Event Co- Solihull Society

----------
> From: Tre McCroskey <TMCCROSKEY@CENTER.COLGATE.EDU>
> To: lro@playground.sun.com
> Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest
> Date: Wednesday, December 03, 1997 9:23 AM
> Anyone had problems with the power steering boxes on Defenders?  Our 110

has
> very loose steering and the dealer claims that we need a whole new
steering 
> box and drop arm.  The rover is only 5 years old!   Any advice would be
great!
> Tre McCroskey
> Flatland Rover Society
> '93  110
> Date: Wednesday, December 03, 1997 9:23 AM

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 03 Dec 1997 17:28:53 -0500
Subject: Re: 3.54 diff question
From: Jules@learnlink.emory.edu (Sean P. Murphy)

nicotra@worldnet.att.net,Internet writes:
>I am going to call local salvage yards and try to find a set of RR diffs
>for my ser III. Does anybody know what Range Rover years will bolt right
>on
>to my axle?

It isn't just a matter of bolting in the diff.  There were early RR diffs
that used 10-spline axles, but I believe that all of the official
production RR's imported by LRNA ran 24-spline axles, so you'll either
have to change axles or use your carriers with the 3.54 crown and pinion. 
I have one complete 10-spline carrier and casing and two complete sets of
3.54 crown wheel and pinion setups from my 90, if you're interested. 
You'll have to pull the diffs, put in the new crown and pinions, check
pinion height and backlash.  This is no easy overnight job.  I know, I
just finished it myself on my 90 going the other direction from 3.54's to
4.7's.  <GRIN>

Sean P. Murphy
Project Director, LearnLink
Emory University

------------------------------

From: DEFENDER@ibm.net
Date: Wed, 03 Dec 1997 17:45:21 -0500
Subject: Re: 3.54 diff question

Sean,

Did you put it 4.70's or 4.77's?  How much did you have to replace?  Did
you have to change axles?

William Pittman

Sean P. Murphy wrote:

> nicotra@worldnet.att.net,Internet writes:
> >I am going to call local salvage yards and try to find a set of RR
> diffs
> >for my ser III. Does anybody know what Range Rover years will bolt
> right
> >on
> >to my axle?
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 30 lines)]
> Project Director, LearnLink
> Emory University

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 03 Dec 1997 18:53:04 -0600
From: Steve Fullwood <ansdf@ttacs1.ttu.edu>
Subject: Re: Source for wiring?

British Wiring their number and address is on the LR FAQ. I just ordered
today from them.  They are very nice people.  good luck.
British Wiring Inc. 
Olympia Fields, Illinois, USA, 
Telephone: 708-481-9050.

Steve Fullwood

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 03 Dec 1997 19:19:42 -0600
From: Steve Fullwood <ansdf@ttacs1.ttu.edu>
Subject: Rust

I have a easy question I hope.  What is the easiest way to check for rust
on the frame.  I am not a idiot I just want to know if you just look and
say "yep there is rust" or what.  How about those little magnet things are
they accurate.  What about the inside what if the frame is rusting from the
inside out.  I think my frame is "rust free" but what does that mean
really.  How could a 30 year old piece of steel that has been exposed to
the elements be absolutely "rust free". How do people verify this.  Finally
I would like to know more about waxoyl.  Where can I get it??  I want to
protect my frame from any future rust.

Steve Fullwood
61' Series II

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 3 Dec 1997 20:29:35 -0600 (CST)
From: Uncle Roger <sinasohn@ricochet.net>
Subject: Re: Side compartments

A lot of 109" 2-doors have them, usually added by someone after the initial
purchase.  After seeing several around here, I decided I wanted the space,
but didn't want to cut the sides.  So I pulled out the inside spare tyre
thingy and Scotty designed a couple of top loading boxes for me.  

The left one holds my second battery (underneath the kitchen cabinets) and
the right one holds spares and tools and emergency supplies (under my side
of the bed).  The rear boxes hold emergency camping gear (left) and the rear
fuel filler (right).  Gotta figure out what I could store in that right side
box one of these days...  Maybe extra oil? 

After all is said and done, I'm still glad I didn't cut the sides, but side
opening boxes would have been far more useful.  (Wouldn't have to remove the
mattress/sleeping bags or cabinet to get at them.)

At 12:13 PM 12/3/97 -0500, you wrote:
>Seems to me a competent sheet-metal worker could add these to just about
>any Landie - my 109 has top-opening ones in the rear of the box, and I've
>been tempted to add them to the front of the box also using the spare-tyre
>cutouts that are already in the upper wheel wells.
 

Uncle Roger                       "There is pleasure pure in being mad
roger@sinasohn.com                           that none but madmen know."
Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates
San Francisco, California                  http://www.crl.com/~sinasohn/

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 03 Dec 1997 22:01:30 -0500
From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com>
Subject: Re: Illegal Importers: Good or bad?

I won't reeat my posting of several days ago on the whole issue of
importing parts to assemble a vehicle. The difference between federal
and state law is important though. For automobiles the feds regulate
importation and interstate commerce. The states regulate what is driven
on the highway. So just because a state allows you to register and
operate a vehicle does not mean it was legally imported.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 03 Dec 1997 19:19:02 -0800
From: Blair Gillespie <BlairG@fix.net>
Subject: Re: Source for wiring? 

At 12:14 PM 12/3/97 -0500, you wrote:
>>Hi,
>>        I am planning to re-wire my 88 with a wiring board and use custom
>	 [ truncated by lro-lite (was 11 lines)]
>>Rover On,
>>Blair

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 16 lines)]
>with a harness from "Painless Wiring". Although it did give us a nice fuse
>box, and newer type systems for the alt., I found the entire mess to be,

Mike and Pat,
	I would have to agree with you. Painless Wiring is not all that painless.
We use Enos Custom Components boards with the custom wiring with all the
names of all the components written on the wire. This makes it really easy
for creating custom looms and tracing wires. Pat, email me if you would
like any more info on Enos. He  runs a quality shop with great products.
FYI I have a hot rod shop here in SLO that keeps me off the streets when I
am not a fire fighter.
Rover On,
Blair
>>Hi,
>>        I am planning to re-wire my 88 with a wiring board and use custom
>	 [ truncated by lro-lite (was 11 lines)]
Blair Gillespie
San Luis Obispo 
California USA

1988 Range Rover
1972 SIII 88
1967 HD FLH
1940 Ford Pick Up

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 03 Dec 1997 22:22:20 -0500
From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com>
Subject: Re: gear ratios

matt wrote:

> can anyone provide me with the s2a gearbox&transfer case gear ratios
> and the method for determining compound
> gearing?(tranny-transfer-diffs)

Total ratio is the product of the gearbox, transfer case and axle
ratios.Total = gearbox X transfer case X axle.

(BTW, you shouldn't need to use the enter key after each line.)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 03 Dec 1997 22:30:00 -0500
From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com>
Subject: Re: Rust

> I would like to know more about waxoyl.  Where can I get it??  I want
> to
> protect my frame from any future rust.

Try Triple-C in York, PA. 1-888-854-4081, 1-717-854-4081, fax
1-717-854-6706.
They also have web site, but the last time I looked it didn't list
Waxoyl. It is in their CHristmas catalog though. BTW, they also have a
good selection of LR toys and other goodies.

Regards,
David Cockey

------------------------------

From: rovah@agate.net
Date: Thu, 4 Dec 1997 00:09:25 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Maine Forest Rally Info...

Thought I'd send this URL out to those that might enjoy seeing a rally race
this weekend.  Just came across the site tonight.
http://www.ebtec.com/racenews/maine/

Cheers!  John

John Cassidy
Bangor, Maine USA

The Downeast Land Rover Club, <http://www.agate.net/~rovah/>
X0 of the V(irtual)MFA 323rd Cougars/Flying GSC's F/A-18 Hornet game
<http://www.tstonramp.com/~kahuna/index.html>

2 Wheels: Ducati M900, Velocette Thruxton, Moto Morini 350S
4 Wheels: 1995 Discovery, 1987 Range Rover-"Smedley," 1966 Series IIA 88",
1972 Series III 88"-"SWAMBO" 1963 Unimog 404.1-S "The Caterpiller"

------------------------------

From: rovah@agate.net
Date: Thu, 4 Dec 1997 00:27:41 -0500 (EST)

This is a message I'm forwarding for someone not on the list.  Reply to the
e-mail address in the message;

I am selling my 1973 SeriesIII 88'
hard top to make room for an old Range Rover and I was wondering if you
were or knew someone interested in purchasing a series.  It has a solid
frame, new turner rebuilt engine, new brakes, new fuel tank/line, new
carb., new heater blower motor, near mint origanal interior, and much more.
 I have put over 8,000 dollars of parts and garage bills into it in just
the last year!!!  It needs nothing and is a daily driver.  I am asking
$8,000 but will negotiate a little for a truly good home.

Thank you...
Nakomis Nelson
nakomis@midcoast.com

Cheers!  John

John Cassidy
Bangor, Maine USA

The Downeast Land Rover Club, <http://www.agate.net/~rovah/>
X0 of the V(irtual)MFA 323rd Cougars/Flying GSC's F/A-18 Hornet game
<http://www.tstonramp.com/~kahuna/index.html>

2 Wheels: Ducati M900, Velocette Thruxton, Moto Morini 350S
4 Wheels: 1995 Discovery, 1987 Range Rover-"Smedley," 1966 Series IIA 88",
1972 Series III 88"-"SWAMBO" 1963 Unimog 404.1-S "The Caterpiller"

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 4 Dec 1997 09:57:38 +0300 (EET)
From: Semih Bingol <semih@leo.ee.hun.edu.tr>
Subject: Spark plugs

Hi all,

Does anybody know the Bosch equivalent of Champion UN12Y's?

Semih Bingoel
74SWB 2.25 petrol

------------------------------

From: "Richard Marsden"<rmarsden@digicon-egr.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 4 Dec 1997 09:33:02 +0000
Subject: Re: Rust

I thought the approved method was to go underneath with a large heavy duty
screwdriver!

Start hacking. If its solid its okay. If the owner starts making excuses or
cringing, he's hiding something....

That's if you're buying...   :-)

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)

ansdf@ttacs1.ttu.edu on 12/04/97 01:19:42 AM

Please respond to lro@playground.sun.com

cc:    (bcc: Richard Marsden/EAME/VDGC)

Subject:  Rust

I have a easy question I hope.  What is the easiest way to check for rust
on the frame.  I am not a idiot I just want to know if you just look and
say "yep there is rust" or what.  How about those little magnet things are
they accurate.  What about the inside what if the frame is rusting from the
inside out.  I think my frame is "rust free" but what does that mean
really.  How could a 30 year old piece of steel that has been exposed to
the elements be absolutely "rust free". How do people verify this.  Finally
I would like to know more about waxoyl.  Where can I get it??  I want to
protect my frame from any future rust.
Steve Fullwood
61' Series II

------------------------------

From: "Richard Marsden"<rmarsden@digicon-egr.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 4 Dec 1997 09:33:55 +0000
Subject: Re: Rust

Waxoyl for Christmas?  You Yanks are strange!

I won't ask what you do with it!  :-)

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)

dcockey@tir.com on 12/04/97 03:30:00 AM

Please respond to lro@playground.sun.com

cc:    (bcc: Richard Marsden/EAME/VDGC)

Subject:  Re: Rust

> I would like to know more about waxoyl.  Where can I get it??  I want
> to
> protect my frame from any future rust.
Try Triple-C in York, PA. 1-888-854-4081, 1-717-854-4081, fax
1-717-854-6706.
They also have web site, but the last time I looked it didn't list
Waxoyl. It is in their CHristmas catalog though. BTW, they also have a
good selection of LR toys and other goodies.
Regards,
David Cockey

------------------------------

From: Autoconv@aol.com
Date: Thu, 4 Dec 1997 05:04:20 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: 3.54 diff question (reply)

On the subject of raising the drive ratios, are you aware of the High Ratio
Transfer case we manufacture ?

This will have the effect of raising high range by 31.2% and leaving the low
range as it is. As other people have mentioned this will be on the boarder
line if you have 750's but OK if the 2.25 engine is healthy and on stock 600
tyres.

It is also ideal for V8 and Holden engines as it is as strong as the
original.

We sell the kit for #320.

Email me if this is of interest.

Regards
David Ashcroft 

------------------------------

From: "Huub Pennings" <HPS@fs1-kfih.azr.nl>
Date: Thu, 4 Dec 1997 11:14:16 +0100
Subject:       Re: Rust

The method is to go underneath with a hammer, use it to bang the 
frame at all suspect poits, if you can dent it, it is thin becouse of 
rust from the inside. 
Be very thorough with this procedure. Checking out a frame should 
cost you 10 to 15 minutes at least. It can save a lot of time, 
effort and money better spend.

Regards,

Huub Pennings

e-mail adress
Pennings@kfih.azr.nl

------------------------------

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