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From: Alan Perfect <alanstephens@dial.pipex.com>
Subject: Using Jump leads
Date: Tue, 25 Nov 1997 11:59:34 -0000

this may be a really silly question, but when trying to start someone =
elses car from my landy using jump leads to the batteries how should =
they be connected given that my vehicle is positive earth and theirs is =
negative?

Alan

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Tue, 25 Nov 1997 07:10:09 -0500
Subject: Re: Using Jump leads

Jumping a + ground to a - ground car:

First off, it's risky. If the bodies of the two vehicles touch anywhere
you're going to get one helluva short.

Don't touch both vehicles at once - yah, right, only 12 volts but it can do
you some damage under the right conditions - and a hand-to-hand current
path is exactly right for cardiac nasties.

You're right, though - you'd hook the negative lead from the car body of
the modern vehicle to the -ve battery post, and the positive lead to the
grounded wire from the battery.

Care is definitely the watchword here - you're dealing with high currents,
flammable materials (fuel and outgassing from the batteries), and all sorts
of sharp rotating nasties. Don't smoke near the batteries, of course.

I don't want to discourage you - it's safe if you keep your eyes open and
your wits about you.

               Al Richer

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Nov 1997 07:21:20 -0500
From: Erik Van Dyck <vandycke@mailserver.volvo.com>
Subject: Tail light needed

.....need a brake/tail light lens for my 1973 US spec Series III.  (A
tree jumped out and broke one during last weekends trail ride).  This is
the red plastic lens that is no longer available new thru the normal
outlets, was used for only a year or two, is probably the same diameter
as the "normal  lamps but twice as long.  Any one have a spare?
thanks,  erik
Erik van Dyck
Suwanee, Georgia

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Nov 1997 08:17:05 -0500 (EST)
From: Russ Wilson <rwilson@usaor.net>
Subject: Re: Detroit Locker/Truetrac

>Does anyone out there have experience of fitting a combination of a Detroit
>Locker at the back and a Detroit Truetrac at the front in a Series III SWB
>Diesel? The vehicle will be used both on (2WD) and off road (4WD) and g\has
>free wheeling hubs at the front.
>Any experience notes would be much appreciated.

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 14 lines)]
>David Levett
>dlevett@pc.jaring.my

David, No experience in that department but you did read my mind..I was
thinking of doing the same thing to my vehicle so let me (everyone) know
how this all works out.

Russ Wilson
Leslie Bittner

Fort Pitt Land Rover Group
Pittsburgh, Pa.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Nov 1997 08:42:00 -0500 (EST)
From: Russ Wilson <rwilson@usaor.net>
Subject: winch sold

Sorry I couldn't answer everyone individually but I had a few more
interested parties contacting me than I had expected.

Russ Wilson
Leslie Bittner

Fort Pitt Land Rover Group
Pittsburgh, Pa.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Nov 1997 10:36:14 -0500 (EST)
From: David Scheidt <david@math.earlham.edu>
Subject: Re: Using Jump leads

On Tue, 25 Nov 1997, Alan Perfect wrote:

> this may be a really silly question, but when trying to start someone elses car from my landy using jump leads to the batteries how should they be connected given that my vehicle is positive earth and theirs is negative?

My inclination would be to disconnect the battery in the other car, and
just use it to boost the one in your truck.  Of course, if your battery is 
really flat (and it is cold), a car's starting battery is not going to cut
it.  Like Alan Richer says, be careful!

David

 
> Alan

--------
David_Scheidt@math.earlham.edu

yip yip yip yap yap yak yap yip *BANG*  -- no terrier

------------------------------

From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Subject: What's this bit for?
Date: Tue, 25 Nov 1997 08:41:32 -0800

The bit in question mounts on top of the engine side of the bulkhead
drivers (LHD) footwell of my 1961 Series II SWB, right under the
steering column.  It looks like a miniature hockey puck.  It's black
plastic and the top comes off, revealing six screw down electrical
terminals.  Written on it is LUCAS MODEL 6J & 78266A (part number?)

It doesn't seem to appear on any of the wiring diagrams in the Hayes
shop manual.

My guess is that is was originally some junction box for the original
wiring harness (long since removed in favor of a rat's nest of wires :-(
 

My friends 1969 Series IIA has nothing even remotely similar...

Any help would be appreciated as I am about to re-wire the beast. ;-)

Paul
1961 Series II SWB 
Victoria, BC  Canada

All I ate was spearment candy, trying to change the flavor of the day...

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Nov 1997 11:48:15 -0500 (EST)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@nrn1.NRCan.gc.ca>
Subject: Re: What's this bit for?

On Tue, 25 Nov 1997, Paul Quin wrote:

> My guess is that is was originally some junction box for the original
> wiring harness (long since removed in favor of a rat's nest of wires :-(

	Bingo!  Ignore it.  It is Series II specific (and very early IIA).

------------------------------

From: AKBLACKLEY@aol.com
Date: Tue, 25 Nov 1997 11:57:24 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Dec. LROI & Willys

I barely cracked the cover of the November issue when the December issue
arrived yesterday. One article that caught my eye was the replica of the
original Wilks Willys Jeep based SI prototype. So much of the beloved Series
trucks was derived from the war time MB. I've been looking at CJ2As recently,
and I now appreciate how much better the SII and later LR are. But the ol'
flat fender is the still the original article, and IMHO, should be an honored
guest at any Land Rover gathering. Cheers. Andy Blackley

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Tue, 25 Nov 1997 12:26:16 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re:  Secret life of D90 Instrument Cluster

In a message dated 11/25/97 4:07:11 AM, Chris wrote:

>I've put together another page about the hidden lights on a D90 instrument
>cluster and I've got some questions that I'd love to know the answer to.

>So check it out and I'd appreciate the help:

>http://www.cs.odu.edu/~glaves/chris/dash

I've had a look at my 110's light cluster and here are my observations and
thoughts...
(If you don't know what I'm talking about, hava look at his website, the
pictures are very explanatory)

The top, leftmost lamp is "Park Brake" in white lettering; no bulb inside,
not wired. What's a "Park Brake"? When I pull up on the Transmission Brake
Lever next to my right leg, a different light comes on, the red one that has
the brake drum symbol, the same one that comes on if your brake fluid runs
low beacause your wheel cylinder gave out like mine did...

The top, rightmost lamp is the rear window defrost wires symbol in white
paint, and it has a functioning bulb and is wired

The bottom row, farthest to the left, is the same symbol as on Chris' page, I
suspect it could be a "PTO in operation" symbol; no bulb inside, not wired.

To the right of the trailer light on the bottom, I have the same
Gear/Thermometer symbol; no ideas here other than a tranny temp light; no
bulb inside, not wired.

On the top row, the low fuel light works, it comes on after 16.5ish gallons
have been gulped down.

Bottom row, between Sidelights & Check Engine, the fog lamp symbol doesn't
have a bulb either, not wired.

I also noted that the screws that hold down the cluster have little o-rings
and that the cluster itself has an o-ring around its base. I guess that's to
stop the water from getting behind it; but below the cluster is a large gap
between the steering column and instrument pod that would let a ton of water
in... so much for the o-rings.

pat
93  110

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Tue, 25 Nov 1997 12:35:04 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re:  Using Jump leads

In a message dated 11/25/97 10:58:18 AM, you wrote:

>this may be a really silly question, but when trying to start someone elses
car
>from my landy using jump leads to the batteries how should they be connected
given
>that my vehicle is positive earth and theirs is negative?

How close can you get their bumpers before they weld themselves together?
What would happen in an accident? There's a way to start a campfire when you
don't have matches... 

pat
93 110

------------------------------

From: "Fred Herman" <hfherman@hotmail.com>
Subject: Different steering relay 
Date: Tue, 25 Nov 1997 09:36:33 PST

I need some advice from you steering experts.  I was doing some PM over 
the weekend and when I got to the steering relay I wasn't sure how to 
proceed.  "The Beast" (named by my girlfriend during her first ride) is 
a 1969 SIIa 109 SW with right hand drive.  The relay had only two top 
bolts, rather than the usual four, and what really surprised me, was a 
Zerk fitting on the right side of the body.  My question is how do I 
know when enough grease has been pumped in - do I unbolt one of the top 
bolts and just pump away?  Does anyone out there have any information on 
this type of relay?
Thanks for the help.

______________________________________________________

------------------------------

From: DHW4U@aol.com
Date: Tue, 25 Nov 1997 12:54:32 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Using Jump leads

the same pos to pos neg to neg

dave

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Tue, 25 Nov 1997 12:47:44 -0500
Subject: Re: Different steering relay

Someone's messed up your steering relay - they never take grease.

This is a last-ditch stopgap for a leaking, worn-out relay. Some will fill
them with grease rather than replace the seals, leading to some interesting
handling characteristics in cold-weather operation when the grease congeals
overnight.

               Al R.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Nov 1997 12:12:00 -0600
From: Steve Fullwood <ansdf@ttacs1.ttu.edu>
Subject: Re: What's this bit for?

>The bit in question mounts on top of the engine side of the bulkhead
>drivers (LHD) footwell of my 1961 Series II SWB, right under the
>steering column.  It looks like a miniature hockey puck.  

I just yanked mine out.  If you are curious it is a junction for the
high/low beam foot operated switch.  It also continues on for the
headlights.  There may have been another connection but my drawing I made
of the connection is at home.  The parking and indicator lights went down
the other side in mine.  I am replacing my harness with a IIA harness which
goes down the right side and I am going to bypass this junction  altogether. 

Steve Fullwood
(my first actual contribution)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Nov 1997 12:29:19 -0600 (CST)
From: Uncle Roger <sinasohn@ricochet.net>
Subject: Re: Using Jump leads

At 07:10 AM 11/25/97 -0500, you wrote:
>Jumping a + ground to a - ground car:
 
Or, just completely disconnect your battery and let them start from it.

Uncle Roger                       "There is pleasure pure in being mad
roger@sinasohn.com                           that none but madmen know."
Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates
San Francisco, California                  http://www.crl.com/~sinasohn/

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Nov 1997 21:54:54 +0100
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Subject: Re: Using Jump leads

Years ag, in my early days of rovering, one of my staff borrowed my SIII
+ve earth to jump start her -ve earthed Volvo amazon - or maybe it was
+ve earth, but she got the leads crossed, I don't remember.

What I do remember though was that I was hard up at the time, and when
she melted the entire cable loom of the 88, it just stood outside crying
in the rain for three months until I could afford to fix it.

So - never again - do it yourself - red to red, black to black and don't
cross earth systems - if necessary just unconnect the good battery from
its car first.

that's my lesson!

Adrian Redmond

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Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
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e-mail			     channel6@post2.tele.dk
HoTMaiL (www.e-mail)	channel6denmark@hotmail.com
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Visit our homepages!                www.channel6.dk
---------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Nov 1997 13:09:48 -0800
From: "Christopher H. Dow" <dow@thelen.org>
Subject: Re: Using Jump leads

Reading all this makes me glad I did the -ve conversion.

C

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Tue, 25 Nov 1997 16:27:52 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Using Jump Leads

I've never had to use them yet (knock on Birmabright), but I've lent my leads
out a number of times (to people with automatics). Prior to the 110, every
car I've had has been small and light enough to push start. I even drove a
car without a starter for a while. Now i have the 110 and when I got it, I
tried push starting it just to see if it was possible. Ugh. Got cables for it
the same day.

Why is it recommended to put one clamp on the body; why not directly on the
-ive battery post? The Red clamps go right on the +ive posts, so why don't
people put the black clamps right on the battery?

pat
93  110

------------------------------

From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Subject: RE: Using Jump Leads
Date: Tue, 25 Nov 1997 13:36:04 -0800

>Why is it recommended to put one clamp on the body; why not directly on the
>-ive battery post? The Red clamps go right on the +ive posts, so why don't>
>people put the black clamps right on the battery?

I've always understood that because this is the last connection made
when jump starting, it will be the one that sparks as you clamp the
cables on,  and the idea is to keep the sparks away from the battery...

Paul.
>-----Original Message-----
>From:	SPYDERS@aol.com [SMTP:SPYDERS@aol.com]
>Sent:	Tuesday, November 25, 1997 1:28 PM
>To:	lro@playground.sun.com
>Subject:	Re: Using Jump Leads

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 22 lines)]
>pat
>93  110

------------------------------

From: lroshop@idirect.com
Date: Tue, 25 Nov 1997 16:39:21 +0000
Subject: Re: Camel Trophy ?

Thanks for your note.  I think you will find the print schedules for 
both magazines is different.  LRW only prints 12 issues a year 
whereas LROI prints 13 issues (one every four weeks).  As for the 
Freelander, the early comments suggest this is a tough little beast 
that is suprising everyone, even the diehards.  It is clearly 
intended to compete head to head with RAV4 and Honda RRV etc and can 
clearly wipe the floor with the lot of them.  Think of it as a new 
level of vehicle for LR, not a replacement or alternative to current 
models.

As for Camel in 1998, thank the green people for that.  Its the 
trend these days and old style Camel just won't do.

Regards

Kevin Girling

> From:          thebest4x4xfar@erols.com
> Date:          Tue, 25 Nov 1997 15:57:19 -0800

> I just saw the article on the Camel Trophy in the Nov. edition.
> (not to get off the subject, but, why is it LRO arrives about a month
> behind LRW when their both air mailed ?) Maybe you need to link up w/
> EWA in North Jersey. Anyway, after looking @ the photos of the terrain 
> LR has chosen to keep the Freeloader out of trouble, I would like to 
> offer my assistance as a backup vehicle driver. And, can I bring my 
> Probe GT? I doubt it would have any more trouble handling this years 
> Camel Trophy than LR's new toy will!	 

------------------------------

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Subject: Subsciption to LRO-Digest
Date: Tue, 25 Nov 1997 17:44:18 -0500
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Sirs:
    I keep trying to subscribe to the LRO-Digest without success.  =
Please Help!!!  Thanks.

Drew.
drewteri@concentric.net

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<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Sirs:</FONT></DIV>
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Date: Tue, 25 Nov 1997 19:15:37 -0500
From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com>
Subject: Re: Using Jump leads

> this may be a really silly question, but when trying to start someone
> elses car from my landy using jump leads to the batteries how should
> they be connected given that my vehicle is positive earth and theirs
> is negative?

Here's how I'd do it given that the + ground LR has the charged battery
and/or running, and the other is - ground and not running.

1) Go from the negative post of the LR battery to a good ground location
on the - ground vehicle.
2) Go from the positive postive of the other vehicle to a good ground
location on the + ground LR.

When making connections don't just release the clamp and let it grab.
Rather make an initial brushing motion of the clamp and see how big the
sparks are. No or very small sparks are okay: go ahead and clamp. Large
sparks or arc welder imitation and something is backwards: DON"T CLAMP.
This is good practice in any case. I once mixed up ends of the cables,
and nearly clamped one cable directly across the battery.

Regards,
David Cockey

------------------------------

From: Paul98580@aol.com
Date: Tue, 25 Nov 1997 20:44:14 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

unsubscribe lro daily digest
subscibe lro digest

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Nov 1997 09:25:22 +0000
From: Andy Best <abest@dial.pipex.com>
Subject: 2.6L air pump

Greetings!

I'm new to the LRO list. Despite the .com I'm based near Aberystwyth in
Wales, UK., with (in no particular order) a wife (Gill), a dog (Maddie),
a 1955 S1 86" and a 1985 2.5D 90. We have owned, driven, rebuilt and
yelled at a number of LRs over the last 12 years.

A few days ago the list carried a thread regarding the air injection
system fitted to certain 2.6 engines. From what I remember, the idea was
not to dilute the exhaust, but to clean it up by promoting secondary
combustion of any excess unburned gas in the manifold. Apparently when
the system works, the manifold can get pretty hot (orange). (Another
solution for 2.25 carb icing?). According to the RR parts manual, the
same system was fitted to some RR V8s for the Australian emission regs.

Andy Best

------------------------------

From: "Richard Marsden"<rmarsden@digicon-egr.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 26 Nov 1997 10:05:36 +0000
Subject: Re: 2.6L air pump

Sounds like an afterburner!

So, if you point the manifold backwards, can you get thrust from it?  :-)

(okay fuel is *added* in an afterburner)

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)

abest@dial.pipex.com on 11/26/97 09:25:22 AM

Please respond to lro@playground.sun.com

cc:    (bcc: Richard Marsden/EAME/VDGC)

Subject:  2.6L air pump

Greetings!
I'm new to the LRO list. Despite the .com I'm based near Aberystwyth in
Wales, UK., with (in no particular order) a wife (Gill), a dog (Maddie),
a 1955 S1 86" and a 1985 2.5D 90. We have owned, driven, rebuilt and
yelled at a number of LRs over the last 12 years.
A few days ago the list carried a thread regarding the air injection
system fitted to certain 2.6 engines. From what I remember, the idea was
not to dilute the exhaust, but to clean it up by promoting secondary
combustion of any excess unburned gas in the manifold. Apparently when
the system works, the manifold can get pretty hot (orange). (Another
solution for 2.25 carb icing?). According to the RR parts manual, the
same system was fitted to some RR V8s for the Australian emission regs.
Andy Best

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Nov 1997 18:16:58 +0800 (SGT)
From: torque@pacific.net.sg (Lawrence Lee)
Subject: Steam Cleaning

Hi All,

Recently, I read a thread about "steam cleaning" the engine by adding "a
trickle of water" and its attendant dangers.

How much is "a trickle?" Do you spray it into the carburettor throat with a
spritzer type spray or just pour some water (sounds crazy) into the carb
with the motor running at modest revs.

I have seen water injection pumps advertised in some hot-rod magazines that
get circulated around in the office. I believe they are used to give the
motor more boost ( a good idea to have when attempting to overtake traffic
in a series Rover;-))

Lawrence Lee, Art Director
Torque Class Magazine,
The Only Motor Magazine You Have to be Seen In
MPH Trade Publications (S) Pte Ltd,
12 Tagore Drive, Singapore 787621
Tel: 453 8200  DID: 450 6005  Fax: 453 8600

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Nov 1997 18:22:39 +0800 (SGT)
From: torque@pacific.net.sg (Lawrence Lee)
Subject: Electronic Ignition

Hi All,

Does anyone have any experience with the Pertronix Electronic ignition?

Does it short out etc when exposed to moisture while off roading?

any answers appreciated

cheers

Lawrence Lee, Art Director
Torque Class Magazine,
The Only Motor Magazine You Have to be Seen In
MPH Trade Publications (S) Pte Ltd,
12 Tagore Drive, Singapore 787621
Tel: 453 8200  DID: 450 6005  Fax: 453 8600

------------------------------

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