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From: "MALCOLM R FORBES" <MALCOLMF@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Water problem
Date: Tue, 18 Nov 1997 11:34:14 -0500

I have trouble using "waterproof" and "series  Land Rover" in the same
sentence.  :-)

Malcolm
----------
> Has anyone made his series vehicle water proof.  

> > Has anyone made his series vehicle water proof.  Water seems to be
entering near 
> > the hinge that supports the wind screen.
> Geoffrey,
> to be honest no.  Nobody has managed that :-) BUT, you can try.  
> Is it a SII? or III?
> - Iwan Vosloo

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 10 lines)]
> - Iwan Vosloo
> ( 1975 SIII 88" Diesel )

------------------------------

From: Easton Trevor <Trevor_Easton@dofasco.ca>
Subject: ARO "The 'american' version"
Date: Thu, 20 Nov 1997 07:30:00 -0500

Company Press Release

Ex-GM Senior Plant Director Joins ARO of America To Build the Romanian
ARO
4X4 Sports Utility Vehicle in the U.S.A.

ARDSLEY, N.Y./BRUNSWICK, Ga.--(BUSINESS WIRE)--Nov. 19, 1997-- Worldwide
Equipment Corp. (OTC/BB:WWDE - news)
and its wholly owned subsidiary, ARO of America, Inc., builders of the
Americanized Romanian ARO 4X4 sports utility vehicle in
Georgia, today announced the appointment of Michael J. Martin, former
general director of plant operations at several General Motors
plants, as vice president of plant operations at the ARO assembly plant
in Brunswick, Georgia. The ARO 4x4, although its chassis is
imported from Romania, resembles the Jeep Cherokee, is in effect an
``American'' car. It has an American-made 3.0 liter V6 engine and
drivetrain plus components and accessories.

Eilat Lev, president of Worldwide Equipment Corp. and its ARO
subsidiary, commenting on the appointment, noted, ``With GM veteran
of 30 years Michael Martin in charge of ARO's assembly operations and
with additional necessary financing, we anticipate achieving
production of 1,000 vehicles per month of the ARO, the most affordable
mid-size sports utility vehicle entering the market. The timing is
perfect for the debut of the ARO now that SUV autos have just become the
most popular type of transportation for American families,''
President Lev pointed out.

ARO's low sticker price -- in the $13,000 range -- will be a key selling
factor. Its initial price is almost one-half the price of the Jeep
Cherokee and other comparable SUV models of domestic and Japanese
imports. The original Romanian ARO was built as an army
vehicle to haul men and cannons up the Carpathian Mountains, scaling
muddy roads.

``Safe Harbor'' Statement

Except for the historical information contained herein, certain of the
matters discussed in this press release are ``forward-looking
statements'' as defined in the Private Securities Litigation Reform Act
of 1995, which involve certain risks and uncertainties, including
but not limited to, changes in general economic conditions, material
prices, labor costs, interest rates, consumer confidence, competition,
environmental factors, and governmental regulations affecting the
company's operations.

Contact:

     Worldwide Equipment Corp.
     Eilat Lev, President, 914/693-0300
     www.ARO4x4.com

------------------------------

From: "Ron Franklin" <oldhaven@mail.biddeford.com>
Date: Thu, 20 Nov 1997 07:40:12 -0500
Subject: Re: Wheels, Tachometers and water

On 19 Nov 97 at 18:39, Steve Fullwood wrote:
  When doing so the tire shop said my wheels were almost bent
 beyond balancing. 

I have a set of wheels which had bent centers causing a large wobble which 
my tire shop could not correct by weights..  I used a steel bar across the 
rim and a huge c clamp through the center hole to straighten them, measuring the distance to the 
lug holes with a set of calipers, pulling from the appropriate side until 
things were much better.  The scary thing was how easy it was to bend them 
back into shape.

Rgds,
Ronnie

Bowdoin, Maine, USA

------------------------------

From: Easton Trevor <Trevor_Easton@dofasco.ca>
Subject: Temperature Gauges Again
Date: Thu, 20 Nov 1997 07:42:00 -0500

The principle that drives the gauge mechanism in capilliary gauges is
the vapour pressure of the liquid in the bulb, cappiliary and bourdon
tube . The temperature displayed is that of the hottest part of the
entire assembly which is usually the bulb mounted in the block. Try it,
heat up your capilliary and watch the temperature display rise.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Nov 1997 07:53:40 -0500 (EST)
From: kelliott@intranet.ca (Keith Elliott)
Subject: Re: Carb frosting

Well, I have a carb heater off another carb and it works. I'm going to
install it tonight and see how it works. I'm just wondering though if anyone
knows how it wires into the cold-start mechanism. I know that there is a
switch kinda thingy on the cold-start cable, but this already has two wires
on it (I haven't looked at it yet to see where these wires go). How does
this switch work? It isn't physically connected to the choke cable because I
just pulled out a broken one and put an aftermarket one in. When you push
the choke handle in does it hit the switch to shut it off?

>Solex carburettors (which I believe you mentioned you had) also had an
>electric carburettor heater built-into the cold-start mechanism. These
>carbs were prone to icing, as Webers are also (to which I can personally
>attest).
>If you can, you might want to nose around and see if you can come up with
>the electric heat bit off an old Solex. This would fix your problem if yoy
>can't manage to replace the spring on your heat riser.

Thanks

Keith
1961 Series II 88" (Frosty)

Ottawa

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Nov 1997 08:28:21 -0500 (EST)
From: Russ Wilson <rwilson@usaor.net>
Subject: looking for a part..

I'm looking for a brake part for a Series III for my friend Scott...
RN # 279412   5 way brake junction    RN says NLA and no dice from England....
If anyone has a used one on an old Series III carcas drop me a note as
Scott doesn't have E-mail.
Thanks..

Russ Wilson
Leslie Bittner

Fort Pitt Land Rover Group
Pittsburgh, Pa.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Nov 1997 15:32:21 +0200 (EET)
From: "R. Wade Hughes" <hughes@trshp.trs.ntc.nokia.com>
Subject: hello, World!!!

I've had my SIIA LWB now for exactly a year, and been following the
digest and lists now for a while, so as for the 1st anniversary of
ownership I thought I'd officially announce myself...Hi!

As winter's coming on (no snow here yet), I'd like to get some comments 
on using (snow)-chains...I've really not seen them used to my memory,
not even at "home" in Northern Ontario...
As I have a Rover rear end, I'd be worried about snapping a half-axle.
What about chains in front? Seeing the Kalimantan Trophy video, I've
wondered if chains would be useful in such sloppy mud conditions...
How 'bout you guys down there in the RSA...are they ever used in the
Kalahari sands or the Okovango Swamps? Do rocks break the chains?
I'd think they'd give one a traction equivalent to a bulldozer...
Here in Finland, they don't salt the roads (much), but studded tires
are used...so what about off-road? 
At a local Finnish "Crappy Tire", one can get chains that require 
moving the wheel or ones that can be slapped on with the wheels 
as is...but are they garbage? I've wondered if a set would be useful
for being stuck, since I don't have a winch.

Before the message is digested, I'll say thanks in advance for replys,
and to Kevin Girling at Lawrence Park Motors for pointing me to the
list last summer in Toronto.

"Rover"...the 1st wheeled vehicle on Mars!!
R. Wade Hughes
Integration Engineer, Management Systems    
Information Networking Systems
Nokia Telecommunications            
Valimotie 1, 2nd Floor              82 Pontiac GP 267 V8 T-Roof    (in Canada)
00380 Helsinki, Finland             70 Land Rover SIIA Petrol Hardtop "Zenith"
Tel. (358-9)-511-63322              73 Citroen 2CV(6-engine, Red)     "Zéphyr"
Fax: (358-9)-511-63310
Net: hughes@trshp.ntc.nokia.com (Unix)
 or: wade.hughes@ntc.nokia.com  (MS Mail)

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Thu, 20 Nov 1997 08:49:14 -0500
Subject: Re: Carb frosting

Near as I remember (and that's none too clear, as my car doesn't have one),
the heat module is wireed in parallel to the cold-start warning light..
This way, when you pull out on the cable about 1/2", the switch makes,
supplying 12 volts to the warning light circuit and the heater. The light
doesn't come on because of the second switch in the block, but the heater
does, as it grounds through the block and the carburettor.

The circuit (as I remember):

+12--CS switch-dash light--block switch--ground
             |
            |
            --- heater on carb.--- ground

>From what I remember of the manuals, you should see a 5-or-6 amp draw on
the ammeter when this puppy kicks on.

Of course, if you want to pretend it's an airplane you could add a switch
to the dash labeled "CARB HEAT" and hook it to that...<grin>.

               aj"Rusty...."r

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Nov 1997 8:58:38 -0500
From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Subject: Re: hello, World!!!

Wull hey thar Mr. R. Wade! Can you get me a good deal on a digital cell 
phone?
If they don't salt the roads, then you'll be driving on compacted snow, 
yes? Why would you need chains at all? They restrict you to about 40 
miles an hour and make gawdawful noise to boot. Off-road, I've read tales 
of them flying off at the least opportune moment and wrapping up wings, 
axles and everything in their path.
Maybe I'm all wrong, but I'd stay away. 

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon,
'81 Honda Goldwing 1100 Standard:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Nov 1997 09:11:55 -0500
From: ecrover@midcoast.com (East Coast Rover Co.)
Subject: Re: looking for a part..

>I'm looking for a brake part for a Series III for my friend Scott...
>RN # 279412   5 way brake junction

Russ,
Are you sure you need the 5 way? The SIII's didn't use the 5 ways. They
were from the earlier single circuit brake systems like SII- early SIIA's,
they were the main junction, and even included the brake light switch. The
SIII had dual brakes, and needs only a 3 way in that spot. Someone may have
changed it, but make sure before you have to dig for a NLA part that might
be hard to find.
Have a great day.

From: Mike Smith,  EAST COAST ROVER CO.
*Land Rover and Vintage 4X4 Specialists*
21 Tolman Road, Warren, ME (USA) 04864
207.594.8086 phone  207.594.8120 fax
http://www.eastcoastrover.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Nov 1997 09:13:36 -0500 (EST)
From: kelliott@intranet.ca (Keith Elliott)
Subject: Re: Carb frosting

Thanks Alan, I'll give it a try and see what happens, and if it doesn't work
I will put a switch in to control it.

>Near as I remember (and that's none too clear, as my car doesn't have one),
>the heat module is wireed in parallel to the cold-start warning light..
>This way, when you pull out on the cable about 1/2", the switch makes,
>supplying 12 volts to the warning light circuit and the heater. The light
>doesn't come on because of the second switch in the block, but the heater
>does, as it grounds through the block and the carburettor.

>Of course, if you want to pretend it's an airplane you could add a switch
>to the dash labeled "CARB HEAT" and hook it to that...<grin>.
>This way, when you pull out on the cable about 1/2", the switch makes,

I guess that would be the closest that one of these beasts would come it
being compared to an airplane. :)      

Keith
1961 Series II 88" (Frosty, soon to be Cessna)
Ottttttawa (Sorry, shivers from the cold)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Nov 1997 16:16:15 +0200 (EET)
From: "R. Wade Hughes" <hughes@trshp.trs.ntc.nokia.com>
Subject: Re: hello, World!!!

I can get you a FREE phone if you guys buy our IP/ATM network
management system...
If you guys in the Good Ol' US of A will go GSM then t'd work there.
-- 
"Rover"...the 1st wheeled vehicle on Mars!!
R. Wade Hughes
Integration Engineer, Management Systems    
Information Networking Systems
Nokia Telecommunications            
Valimotie 1, 2nd Floor              82 Pontiac GP 267 V8 T-Roof    (in Canada)
00380 Helsinki, Finland             70 Land Rover SIIA Petrol Hardtop "Zenith"
Tel. (358-9)-511-63322              73 Citroen 2CV(6-engine, Red)     "Zéphyr"
Fax: (358-9)-511-63310
Net: hughes@trshp.ntc.nokia.com (Unix)
 or: wade.hughes@ntc.nokia.com  (MS Mail)

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Thu, 20 Nov 1997 09:11:47 -0500
Subject: Re: hello, World!!!

Re: Chains:

If you're running studded tyres anyway, I wouldn't bother. They were a
great idea when bias-ply snow tyres were a new and radical idea, but I
wouldn't....

                    Alan

------------------------------

From: Mark Sullivan <marks@dataflowsys.com>
Subject: North American Off Road Challenge
Date: Thu, 20 Nov 1997 09:51:51 -0500

Does anybody have any information on the above event happening this Dec 10-14 in Gainesville FL 

------------------------------

From: CIrvin1258@aol.com
Date: Thu, 20 Nov 1997 10:52:57 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Buick 215''

Allan,

The 215 uses a slightly different crankshaft - just different enough so that
the block uses a different rear main seal. From what I've heard, it can be
re-machined to fit a Rover type...I loaned out my Rover V-8 book a few years
ago, and haven't gotten it back yet, so I'm not sure of the exact physical
differences, but there aren't many.

I believe, the engine mounting points are the same, though the mounts
themselves, are not. The starter is different (Chevy type, in that it bolts
to the block, and not the backing plate), the flywheels are different - but
may be interchangeable, and I've been told that a Rover 5-speed will bolt up
to it.

The cylinder heads on the Buick have more bolts holding them down, though the
heads WILL FIT a Rover block (the existing bolt pattern on the Rover, taking
after the Buick, but simply deleting the extra bolts), and the oil pump
assembly is similar, but different, and Rover parts won't fit here (so much
for buying cheaper ones!)

The major concern, however, is the lifespan of the engine: GM used a
different - and knowingly inferior - casting process that limited it's
lifespan to about 60,000 miles (images of the Vega?), though several have
passed that mark without expressing their displeasure with life. This, is due
to the standard at GM at the time (1950's-1960's) being cast-iron blocks, and
GM wasn't very well versed in using aluminum for anything other than aircraft
skin - unlike their European counterparts, and to do it right, would have
meant a substantial dumping of cash into the project - which they didn't
really want to do at the time.

Charles

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Nov 1997 10:00:51 -0500
From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Subject: Re: North American Off Road Challenge

Gainesville FL? How challenging can that be...flat'rn my high school prom 
date.

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon,
'81 Honda Goldwing 1100 Standard:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

------------------------------

From: BarrieWyLR@aol.com
Date: Thu, 20 Nov 1997 11:57:44 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: hello, World!!!

Hi Wade, I've used chains out here in Wyo.  I suggest ones with the cross
links.  Put them on the rear 1st, that will keep the rear end behind not in
front of you going downhill.  I use  4x4's to raise the tires when putting
them on.  Place the cross links around the 4x4, then drive up on the wood,
hook the chains together, & drive off.   Don't forget to pick up the 4x4's
for the next time.

Be Happy
Barrie
60SIIswb " Rugbeater"

------------------------------

From: "David Hope" <davidjhope@email.msn.com>
Subject: Wranglers and non-LR 4x4s
Date: Thu, 20 Nov 1997 10:59:23 -0600

Reading the postings yesterday on Jeep Wranglers, I think we are too hard on
our fellow 4-wheel drive enthusiasts or as they are called around here
"Jeepers". While some of these vehicles are bought by/for college kids a lot
are used by enthusiasts as well.  I had a Wrangler for 2.5 years and it
never broke or dripped, and with Lock-Rite lockers on both axles performed
amazingly well and it introduced me to the joys of off-road driving.  Also,
and this is important, it is the Jeep clubs especially that keep the trails
around here open for the few Land Rover owners to enjoy.

Shoot me down in flames if you wish but I usually wave to Jeep and Land
Cruiser drivers and they usually wave to me.

David Hope
D90
llA

------------------------------

From: debrown@srp.gov
Date: 20 Nov 97 09:50:37 MST
Subject: RE: Selling my baby...

From:  David Brown - Graphics Specialist ~SRP~ e-mail: debrown@srp.gov
       PAB219 (602)236-3544 -  Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486
                                    Pers. E-mail: rovernut@hotmail.com
I too, am selling my 109, and in fact, have accepted an offer.

But this subject line made me think of an alternative;

"Selling my baby."

For sale: 1979 kid, named Trevor. Male, gets extremely poor "fuel" milage,
and will cost you an arm and a leg to feed. Excellent worker, at his job,
but literally requires more effort to get him to do anything around the
house than it does for me just to do it myself. Rover characteristics: Hard
starting, works intermittently, tends to leave messes everywhere he goes,
strong, handsome, (takes after his father ;-) ) Loaded with charm and
personality!

Will trade for decent LR, preferably a 109, to replace the one I'm
committed to sell. This will no doubt be cheaper to maintain!!!

Dave Brown - soon, with one less Rover on the ranch. :-(

 Never give up your life for          #=======#         _____l___
 anything that death can take away.   |__|__|__\___    //__|__|__\___
                        -anonymous    | _|  |   |_ |}  \__ - ____ - _|}
                                      "(_)""""""(_)"      (_)    (_)

------------------------------

Subject: 4-sale 1964 109 Ser IIA 109 PU
Date: Thu, 20 Nov 97 11:56:40 -0500
From: David Russell <David_R@mindspring.com>

I am posting this for someone who does not have Internet access. I 
believe the convention used in the past is for interested parties to 
contact me directly for more information.

I saw and rode in this truck about a year ago and do remember that it was 
in very good to excellent condition.

1964 109 Ser IIA 109 PU, w/Safari & PU top, capstan winch, $6500.00

Cheers

David Russell
http://www.mindspring.com/~david_r
David_R@mindspring.com
1969 SIIA SWB (Pastel Green, 4-speed)
1997 SD (Oxford Blue, 5-speed)
1977 FJ40 (rust, 8-speed (hopefully still))

------------------------------

From: DEFENDER@ibm.net
Date: Thu, 20 Nov 1997 12:28:04 -0500
Subject: Re: Wranglers and non-LR 4x4s

David,

I aggree with you 100%.  I have had all kinds of 4x4's in the past.  I
do love my d90 dearly but I have had jeeps that would kick it's ass.  I
do think, however, that landies are the best 'factory' 4x4 that you can
buy.  I have many friends that drive 4x4's that aren't landies, whats
the bid geal?  I do not think that anyone here can honestly say that
they do not think a jeep is good at what it does.  And if they do, then
they have obviously never owned a jeep.

William Pittman

1997 D90 WAGON "BEAST"

David Hope wrote:

> Reading the postings yesterday on Jeep Wranglers, I think we are too
> hard on
> our fellow 4-wheel drive enthusiasts or as they are called around here
> "Jeepers". While some of these vehicles are bought by/for college kids
> a lot
> are used by enthusiasts as well.  I had a Wrangler for 2.5 years and
> it
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 24 lines)]
> D90
> llA

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Nov 1997 12:22:21 -0500
From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Subject: Re: Wranglers and non-LR 4x4s

I don't mind Jeeps. If I liked 'em all that much, I'd drive one. Just 
happens that I was driving down the right road at the right time with the 
right person in the passengers seat (thanks again Sarah) when I became a 
member of the Land Rover set. Otherwise, I'd still be hammering the crap 
out of those old Willys 4x4 Station Wagons. I find that the looks and 
waves I get from Jeep drivers are in wonder and admiration. 
The thing about Jeeps is...in order for them to work as well off-road as 
a Land Rover, you have to buy a ton of aftermarket bits. Sorta like 
Harleys...pay 15 grand for a bike that goes 0-60 in a half a minute, then 
go add on a decent ignition, carburettor, pipes....

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon,
'81 Honda Goldwing 1100 Standard:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

------------------------------

From: DEFENDER@ibm.net
Date: Thu, 20 Nov 1997 12:35:32 -0500
Subject: Re: Wranglers and non-LR 4x4s

Bill,

That is true.  Most jeeps are not that good off road stock.  But....I
paid a LOT for my 97 d90.  I could have bought a cj7 for around 3 grand,
new fiberglass body for 3,500, put about a grand into the motor, 60's
1,400, lockers and whatever else and not even came near the downpayment
that I put on the d90.  And the jeep would kick much ass.  I just happen
to love the fact that the d90 is good off road and on.  Also, everyone
has a jeep......  I do think that, and I am going to be shot over this
one, a stock jeep cherokee and a stock disco would be a verry tight
call...

MPO

Adams, Bill wrote:

> I don't mind Jeeps. If I liked 'em all that much, I'd drive one. Just
> happens that I was driving down the right road at the right time with
> the
> right person in the passengers seat (thanks again Sarah) when I became
> a
> member of the Land Rover set. Otherwise, I'd still be hammering the
> crap
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 22 lines)]
> '81 Honda Goldwing 1100 Standard:
> "Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

------------------------------

Subject: Re: Wranglers and non-LR 4x4s
Date: Thu, 20 Nov 97 12:02:23 -0000
From: Brent <brent@pharmconsult.com>

As a new list subscriber, I hardly ever see a Disco remark or owner.

Anyway, I have owned a Grand Cherokee and now 2 Disco's.  

My comment, which you may view as noteworthy or not, is that the Grand 
Cherokee which I owned for 3 years was virtually trouble free, a great 4 
x 4.  We do limited off roading, mostly in and around Vail and Summit 
county in Colorado.

The first Disco (96 SE7) was a major pain in the ass.  I had more leaks, 
failures and minor annoyances with this vehicle than I had with all other 
vehicles I have ever owned added together.
3 transmission leaks
3 water pumps replaced
several oil leaks
blown CV

Finally, after months of extolling my problems to Land Rover of North 
America, we came to an agreement on getting a 97 SE7, and after owning 
this for about 5 months now, it has been mostly trouble free.

Brent Flanders, BS Pharm.
Pharmaceutical Consultants, Inc.
5033 West 117th
Leawood, KS  66211

913-491-9825
888-491-9825 toll free

913-491-9829 fax
888-491-9829 toll free fax

brent@pharmconsult.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Nov 1997 13:14:07 -0500 (EST)
From: kelliott@intranet.ca (Keith Elliott)
Subject: Re: Wranglers and non-LR 4x4s

Welcome Brent...

>As a new list subscriber, I hardly ever see a Disco remark or owner.

There is a reason for this, you are on a primarily Series oriented list.
There is another one for Coil Sprung Rovers that is dedicated to Range
Rover/Discos. The Defender crowd are kinda in a limbo sort of list, they are
coil sprung but at the same time they qualify as a Series Land Rover (The
best of both worlds) ;)

TTYL

Keith
1961 Series II 88"
Ottawa

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Nov 1997 10:15:37 -0800
From: Clayton Kirkwood <kirkwood@kirkwood-desk.fm.intel.com>
Subject: Re: Wranglers and non-LR 4x4s

Brent,

If you want Disco talk, you need to subscribe to the cso list not the lro
list (here). This is for leaf sprung nuts, where as the cso list (coil
sprung owners) are for the coil sprung nuts. You will find a number who own
both and post to both and therefore are truely wacky.

Clayton
95 Disco
59 SII 88
67 SIIA 109

Ex Prairie Village resident (79th and Delmar across from Y)

At 12:02 PM 11/20/97 -0000, Brent wrote:
>As a new list subscriber, I hardly ever see a Disco remark or owner.
>Anyway, I have owned a Grand Cherokee and now 2 Disco's.  
>My comment, which you may view as noteworthy or not, is that the Grand 
>Cherokee which I owned for 3 years was virtually trouble free, a great 4 

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 40 lines)]
>888-491-9829 toll free fax
>brent@pharmconsult.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Nov 1997 13:33:27 -0500 (EST)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@nrn1.NRCan.gc.ca>
Subject: Re: LRO November issue

On Thu, 20 Nov 1997, Con P. Seitl wrote:

>   That's why we call it "Royal Storage" ;->

	I was being nice and polite.  My general term for them is
Communist Post.  Who else would have a corporate logo that looks like an
envelope flying through a shredder...

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Nov 1997 13:36:25 -0500 (EST)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@nrn1.NRCan.gc.ca>
Subject: Re: your mail

On Wed, 19 Nov 1997 GElam30092@aol.com wrote:

> and the Discovery did before it.  And if it makes LR stronger so that maybe
> they can finance the D-90's air bag system to bring it back to the US,  more
> power to them!

	The sad bit is that while you will be loosing the D90 becuase of
airbags, there is no requirement in Canada for airbags to be equiped on
any vehicle.  So, LR Canada could send Defender 90's and 110's to Canada.
But they won't...  If you want one, I wonder if you could order it through
Canada?  Hmmm...

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Nov 1997 13:41:18 -0500 (EST)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@nrn1.NRCan.gc.ca>
Subject: Re: Water problem

On Tue, 18 Nov 1997, MALCOLM R FORBES wrote:

> I have trouble using "waterproof" and "series  Land Rover" in the same
> sentence.  :-)

	I don't...  If your girlfriend is waterproof, she will happily go
on a drive with you in your Series Land Rover...  It all depends what you
are applying the term "waterproof" to... :-)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Nov 1997 10:49:00 -0800 (PST)
From: hstin@cts.com (The Brothers Stinson)
Subject: RE: Overland Magazine

Hello,
        Are there any subscribers on the list to "Overlander" magazine which
is often refered to in LROI.  One of my favorite aspects of LROI is the
adventure trip reports.  Is the mag worth subscribing to?  Is it available
to subscribers in the US?  Can you provide an address in which to inquire
about subscriptions?  Thanks....

                                                        Hank Stinson
                                                     SIII SWB Curmudgeon

------------------------------

Subject: Re: Wranglers and non-LR 4x4s
Date: Thu, 20 Nov 97 12:51:55 -0000
From: Brent <brent@pharmconsult.com>

Thanks for the comment, my mail was sent by my machine before I was done 
with it.  

Anyway, thanks for the welcome.

I kind of figured this was a Series vertical list.

Thanks again.

Brent

Brent Flanders, BS Pharm.
Pharmaceutical Consultants, Inc.
5033 West 117th
Leawood, KS  66211

913-491-9825
888-491-9825 toll free

913-491-9829 fax
888-491-9829 toll free fax

brent@pharmconsult.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Nov 1997 11:12:05 -0800
From: "Christopher H. Dow" <dow@thelen.org>
Subject: Re: Wranglers and non-LR 4x4s (Disco Quality)

I used to think that Disco quality was base on the year (i.e. more years after
BMW == better build quality).  Having heard lots of stories about '96 & '97
lemons, I now think that it's totally random.  My '96 Disco has compared
favorably to my (ex) '92 4Runner (4 niggling defects on the Disco instead of one
failed clutch diagphragm on the 4Runner in 30K miles).  My Disco seems to run on
par with the Euro sedans (BMW, Mercedes, Volvo) that my mom has purchased over
the years.  Others (like Brent) have had horrendous problems with their '96s. 
Based on this, I think it's still a matter of quality control.  The design is
good, but if the guys at Solihull had too many pints with their fish 'n' chips
at lunch or had a hangover when the came in in the morning, you're screwed.

C

Brent wrote:
8<
> The first Disco (96 SE7) was a major pain in the ass.  I had more 
> leaks, failures and minor annoyances with this vehicle than I had with 
> all other vehicles I have ever owned added together.
8<
> Finally, after months of extolling my problems to Land Rover of North
> America, we came to an agreement on getting a 97 SE7, and after owning
> this for about 5 months now, it has been mostly trouble free.

------------------------------

From: BarrieWyLR@aol.com
Date: Thu, 20 Nov 1997 14:15:44 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: North American Off Road Challenge

Florida is well known for its sand & swamps.  It does not always have to be
rocky mtns to be a challenge.

Barrie
60 SII SWB "Rugbeater"

------------------------------

From: "Eyres, Richard RP" <Eyres.Richard.RP@bhp.com.au>
Subject: RE: Wheels, Tachometers and water
Date: Fri, 21 Nov 1997 09:02:00 +1100

snip....
"	
	Does any one have any clever ideas for remote axle breathers?
Also is
there anywhere info on how to successfully waterproof the ignition etc.
I
have read the recent threads but was just wondering if there is more to
it.
	
	On a side note I saw this show on Animal Planet "The Crocodile
Hunter"
where this guy took his Hi-lux equipped with a ARB snorkel through water
up
to the wind sheild!!  He also wrestled a wild boar to the ground bare
handed so maybe he is just insane.

Thanks as always,
Steve Fullwood
"

1/ Remote Axle Breathers. I removed the existing breathers and bought a
couple of small compressed air fittings. The ones I got were 90 degree
elbows, one end matched the threaded hole in the axle tube (1/8 BSP I
think, but may be 1/4), the other end was a compression fitting. I also
bought some small bore nylon compressed air tubing, again about 1/8
diameter. Then, using cable ties, I basically clipped the tube to the
brake line from the back axle into the engine compartment, and inserted
the end of the tube through a suitable hole in my air cleaner. I did a
similar thing on the front, but this time clipped the tubing to the top
of one of the leaf springs. Remember to leave a bit of slack to allow
movement, but not enough to snag on any under growth. I deliberately
used 90 degree elbows so as to keep a low profile to the axle, although
straight connectors could be used instead, but you would probably need
to find a different route for the tubing. I don't run a snorkel, but I
have rotated the intake on my air filter housing so it faces the
bulkhead (firewall), which in theory helps to reduce the chances of
sucking in water. Some of the really keen club members have extended
their air intake with a suitable hose through the bulk head to 'suck'
from inside the vehicle for added peace of mind.
2/ Rubber! Seriously, use a carefully positioned rubber glove and rubber
bands on the distributor, the hand of the glove over the distributor
body, with a lead out through a hole in the end of each finger, with a
carefully positioned and tightened rubber bands to make  water tight
seals. (only really works for 4 cylinder motors!, I'm still searching
for a supply of 7 fingered gloves for my 6 cylinder Holden motor)
3/ Silicon grease, Smear a small amount of silicon grease on the mating
faces between distributor cap and body
4/ Heavy duty waterproof spray. I used LPDS3, which is a bit like thin
Waxoyl in a spray can. Other wise, most marine (boat) shops will
probably have some sort of heavy duty water proof spray. Be generous,
spray it all over your ignition, leads, plugs, coil, distributor, and
any underbonet electrical connections.
5/ Distributor 'ventilation'. Most distributors are ventilated to
prevent condensation. These holes need to be blocked up (I used silicon
sealer). I then used more nylon tube from one distributor vent hole with
the other end in the air cleaner. I was going to run another tube from
inside the truck into another distributor vent hole to provide a through
flow of air, but so far this has not been a problem.
6/ More rubber! I have used thin fabric reinforced rubber (insertion
rubber?) to block off the big gap between the bottom of the radiator and
the front of the engine, and about half way along the sides of the
engine. Remember to leave enough gaps for the hot air to escape. My
engine bay now also stays a lot cleaner. Theory is less water entering
the engine bay, then less water on your ignition.
7/ Driving technique. I don't claim to be an expert, but the correct
speed in deep water is important. Set up a steady bow wave, this lowers
the water level in the engine bay. Also blocking off the radiator grill
before entering deep water helps.
Using the above I can run a garden hose at full flow over any part of
the ignition system with no problems. On one club trip we had to drive
along a river bed for about 100-150 meters, and for parts of it the
water completely covered my wheels (I run 750x 16) With all of the above
I had no problems either during or after the immersion.  The guys
driving Suzukis had problems with there vehicles 'floating' in several
places. BTW the club 'old hands' tell me the Holden motor has a
reputation of being particularly 'sensitive' to water, due I guess, to
the location of the distributor (low down on the side of the engine),
and always seem to be surprised when I don't experience problems.
(Conclusion :- preparation is important!) They also tell me it is not a
good idea to change gear in deep water as not only is momentum(and the
bow wave) lost, but also the water can get in between the clutch plate
and flywheel, leading to major (but temporary) clutch slip and loss of
drive.
I have also seen some of the 'Crocodile Hunter' programs, and I have to
confer with your diagnosis, the guy is completely insane, even the
Aussies recon he's a loose unit! If you think the wild boar episode was
'interesting' you should see the one where he tracks down (and captures)
a big crocodile!
 Richard, S3 SWB, with Holden(GM Australia) 6 Cylinder
 New Zealand,

------------------------------

From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Subject: Land Rover Hull Speed
Date: Thu, 20 Nov 1997 12:33:29 -0800

WRT The best speed at which to cross water, this would be the speed at
which you get the deepest trough between the bow wave and the stern
wave.  (I also race sailboats so please excuse the nautical terms... its
really cool when two hobbies collide!)

In sailing, this speed is called the boats hull speed and has a
mathematical formula derived from the physical properties of waves etc.

The formula (in its simplified form) is {the square root of the vehicles
length * 1.34}  where length is in feet.  Result is in knots.

I don't know the exact length of a landy (anybody?) but for arguments
sake lets say an 88 is 12 feet long

sqrt(12) * 1.34 = 4.64 knots which is about 5 mph.

Paul.

>-----Original Message-----
>From:	Eyres, Richard RP [SMTP:Eyres.Richard.RP@bhp.com.au]
>Sent:	Thursday, November 20, 1997 2:02 PM
>To:	lro@playground.sun.com
>Subject:	RE: Wheels, Tachometers and water
>"	
>	Does any one have any clever ideas for remote axle breathers?
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 98 lines)]
> Richard, S3 SWB, with Holden(GM Australia) 6 Cylinder
> New Zealand,

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Nov 1997 17:53:34 -0500 (EST)
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Needed help

Seems that Ted Treanor is having a spot of bother with his new "CB" master 
cylinder:

>I can't get any fluid to "pump" out of the master cylinder and into the 
>system.

The damned CB unit can be a pain.  As you've learned, it'll hold a lot of 
air in the barrel (CB stands for compression barrel).  So you 'bench bleed' 
it first before fitting it on the vehicle.

Fit the whole assembly, master cylinder and brake pedal, in a vise or 
otherwise secure it so the big end is sloped down and the output is up.  Rig 
a little feed tube so it can draw from a can of fluid.  Pump it 'til fluid 
comes out the output hole.  On the down stroke, secure a suitable plug in 
the output hole so all your hard work doesn't drain out whilst fixing it 
(excuse me) *offering* it to the vehicle.  The little that leaks out while 
fitting the brake pipe won't matter.

The easiest way to bleed in situ is to get a pair of high lifts and jack the 
front end as high as it'll go.  That changes the angle so you can get the 
air out of the big end.  Have fun!

Cheers

      *---"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                  | 
      |     Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |
      |   "The oldest Rover-marque club in the Americas"   |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730    |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 757-622-7054 (Day) |
      |    757-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 757-622-7056    |
      |                                                    |
      *---1972 Series III 88"-----1996 Discovery SE-7(m)---*

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Nov 1997 17:53:26 -0500 (EST)
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Poor planning

Paul Oxley wrote:

>Apparently a benevolent US-based organisation dinated a brace 'o Hummers
>to a community-oriented environmental project in the Easten Highlands....

Crikey...these people have *way* more money than brains.  I hope the 
organization has that good ol' US Army concept: the motor pool.  That's
where Hummers live for most of their lives.  The vehicles need way more 
high-tech maintenance than you liable to find in the highlands of Zimbabwe.

      *---"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                  | 
      |     Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |
      |   "The oldest Rover-marque club in the Americas"   |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730    |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 757-622-7054 (Day) |
      |    757-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 757-622-7056    |
      |                                                    |
      *---1972 Series III 88"-----1996 Discovery SE-7(m)---*

------------------------------

From: "Eyres, Richard RP" <Eyres.Richard.RP@bhp.com.au>
Subject: Re: looking for a part..
Date: Fri, 21 Nov 1997 11:56:00 +1100

"
>I'm looking for a brake part for a Series III for my friend Scott...
>RN # 279412   5 way brake junction
Russ,
Are you sure you need the 5 way? The SIII's didn't use the 5 ways. They
were from the earlier single circuit brake systems like SII- early
SIIA's,
they were the main junction, and even included the brake light switch.
The
SIII had dual brakes, and needs only a 3 way in that spot. Someone may
have
changed it, but make sure before you have to dig for a NLA part that
might
be hard to find.
Have a great day.

From: Mike Smith,  EAST COAST ROVER CO.
*Land Rover and Vintage 4X4 Specialists*
21 Tolman Road, Warren, ME (USA) 04864
207.594.8086 phone  207.594.8120 fax
http://www.eastcoastrover.com
""
 Well, just to be awkward, my 1973 S3 SWB has single circuit brakes, and
uses a 4 way junction (1 feed from master cylinder, 1 to LH front brake,
1 to RH front brake and 1 to the rear axle. A 3 way junction is mounted
on the rear axle, with one connection to each wheel. My brake light
switch is mounted on my brake pedal.
I suspect this is partially due to British Leyland's strange habit of
building different specs for different markets. I believe most 'export'
S3's had dual circuit brakes, where as the early 'domestic' ones had
single circuit (using up stocks of S2 parts maybe?) Mine was imported
privately into NZ in 1974, from the UK and would appear to be a
'domestic' version.
If you cant get the 'correct' junction I'm sure it would be possible to
'rejig' the plumbing and use a couple of 3 or 4 way junctions instead.
 I seem to remember that a 1974? Mini I used to own in the UK had a 5
way connector which included the brake light switch. Its possible
several British cars from that period may also have the fitting you
require (try Rover, MG, Triumph, Marina, Morris 1000 or Oxford, Mini
etc.)
Best of luck.
Richard, 1973 S3 SWB
New Zealand

------------------------------

From: "MALCOLM R FORBES" <MALCOLMF@prodigy.net>
Subject: GPS
Date: Thu, 20 Nov 1997 18:14:40 -0500

I found the following GPS information on a Coast Guard navigation URL, and
it seems to indicate that in a couple of years some GPS units will serve
best as expensive paperweights.  If you are considering a getting a GPS at
this time, it might be well worth it to see if they will continue to work
as we approach the year 2000.

Malcolm 

^^^
THE GPS WEEK 1024 ROLLOVER
Information supplied by Joe Gwinn, Raytheon Electronic Systems, Sudbury,
Mass.
(E-mail: gwinn@ed.ray.com)

"GPS System Time will roll over at midnight 21-22 August 1999, 132 days
before the
Year 2000. On 22 August 1999, unless repaired, many GPS receivers will
claim that it is
6 January 1980, 23 August will become 7 January, and so on. Accuracy of
navigation
may also be severely affected. Although it appears that GPS broadcasts do
contain
sufficient data to ensure that navigation need not be affected by rollover
in 1999, it is not
proven that the firmware in all receivers will handle the rollovers in
stride; some receivers
may claim wrong locations in addition to incorrect dates.

Some manufacturers have already solved the problem, but some have not.

This is how the precise rollover date is computed: The timescale origin
(time zero) of
GPS System Time, 00:00:00 UTC 6 January 1980, is Julian Day 2,444,244.500.
A GPS
Cycle is 1,024 weeks, or 7,168 days, so the first GPS rollover will occur
at Julian Day
(2444244.5+7168)= 2,451,412.5, which is 00:00:00 UTC 22 August 1999 AD,
which is
the midnight between Saturday night the 21st of August, and Sunday morning
the 22nd of
August, 1999.

Section 3.3.4(b) (page 33) of the ICD-GPS-200 rev B (30 November 1987
issue) states
that the "GPS Week" count starts at midnight 5-6 January 1980 UTC, and that
the GPS
Week field is modulo 1024. This means that the week count will roll over
1024/52=
19.69 years from then, or in 1980+19.7= 1999.7 (August 1999), only a few
years from
now.

In the July 1993 update of ICD-GPS-200, a note was added (also on page 33)
saying that
the week number *will* roll over, and that users must account for this, but
no way to
accomplish this is mentioned. I take this note as further evidence that
there is no way to
tell, given only the signal-in-space definition as of July 1993.
ICD-GPS-200 is available in
paper only from the USCG Navigation Center (703-313-5900).

Section 2.3.5 (pages 18-19) of the GPS SPS Signal Specification, 2nd
Edition, issued on 2
June 1995, repeats the words and warnings of ICD-GPS-200. The GPS SPS
Signal
Specification may be obtained from the web as an Adobe Acrobat (.pdf)
document, at the
US Coast Guard's site at
"www.navcen.uscg.mil/gps/reports/sigspec/sigspec.htm".

The firmware in all affected (mostly older) receivers will have to be
replaced. This will
involve replacement of PROMs; some are socketed, some are soldered. As a
technical
matter, the solution is quite simple. It's the logistics that will take
some effort.

Without a GPS Simulator, there is no way for users to test a GPS receiver
for this
problem. Users are encouraged to contact their receiver manufacturer to
determine if their 
receiver will be affected, in particular if a failure of navigation could
put lives or 
property at risk."

------------------------------

From: "Russell G. Dushin" <dushinrg@primail.pr.cyanamid.com>
Subject: Re: needed help
Date: Thu, 20 Nov 97 18:43:27 EST

Sandy Grice offerred sound bench bleeding advice for a CB master...but
I've tried and failed many a time to put a bench bled master back in 
without depressing the pedal ever so slightly, then promptly sucking
air back into the system...that air, once in, will sit right up
top above the outlet hole and stay there, no matter how much pumping
you do, and YES, it can be removed by elevating the front end up-
WAY up, but not without some risky undertakings.  An alternative
approach to solving this that requires no high jacking or big rocks
or steep inclines or otherwise scarey situations simply involves
tilting the entire brake pedal ass'y while you crack open the outgoing
line ....and this *can* be done without putting undue stress on
your brake and clutch lines, provided you've loosened the reservoir
mounting plate (those 4 screws) first.  It's a tight squeeze, but you
must manevour the brake pedal ass'y around the steering column, then
tilt the bottom (front) side up enough to let the air bubble out. It
may take a friend's help to depress the pedal a tad to get that last
quarter teaspoon out...

I didn't see the original post that prompted Sandy's response, but
make damned sure you don't just have a brake or four that is badly
in need of adjustment, or for that matter, that one or more of your
brake adjusters aren't kosher...this will give you the same "two or three
pumps-it's gotta be air in the system" diagnosis.

rd/nige

------------------------------

From: "Russell G. Dushin" <dushinrg@primail.pr.cyanamid.com>
Subject: soft top configurations
Date: Thu, 20 Nov 97 18:53:36 EST

Hey-

I was watchin' some Tarzan flick a few weeks ago, and as our hero
dragged some Rhino killin' pogue outa the woods (why in the hell
does he always *save* the bad guys??) and brought him to the border
patrol agents at a neighboring country a 109 appeared....the
3/4 dead bad guy was tossed in the back, and the border agents
hopped in; they sped off, Tarzan went back to his life chasin'
Jane in the bush, I mean the jungle, and the credits rolled.

What I found interesting about the 109 was the way that the soft top
was rolled up in the rear.  The sides of the rear were still attached
to the clips on the sides (sides were down), and only the center
section of the rear of the top was rolled all the way up.  Looked
kinda neat, and was wondering if others roll up their soft tops like
this.

(I've got an aftermarket soft top on Nige, and methinks the straps
are too short for this to work for me....I typically roll the side
sections of the rear part inward, then roll it all up to the top.)

rd/nige

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Nov 1997 20:45:40 -0500 (EST)
From: chrisste@clark.net (Chris Stevens)
Subject: Yep, a broken half shaft

The diagnosis was correct all you Rover doctors--a broken half shaft (right
side) it was. Any more ideas on removing the three-inch stub that is left
inside? Nate D. suggests a killer magnet.

Chris Stevens
1969 Series IIa SW

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Nov 1997 09:47:06 +0800 (SGT)
From: torque@pacific.net.sg (Lawrence Lee)
Subject: Was Poor running 2.6l

Hi Alan,

Thanks for the advice.

Cleaned off the WD-40 from the distributor and plug leads but engine still
hesitates. Leaned the mixture screw on the Zenith-Stromberg by one eighth
of a turn and problem solved! Well almost :-(

Turns out that at this setting, I feel that I am running too lean, which
means to say that I might have a bent needle in the carb. Will replace and
see if my suspicions are correct.

By the way, Alan, does your motor have this thing called the AIR PUMP? I
see it listed in the operation manual for my rover. ('81 SIII 109) It looks
like a supercharger to me, but the air seem to be blown into the exhaust
manifold through this system of air rails - a strange way to supercharge,
as there would not be any boost ot the intake pressures, but rather, it
seems to me that it is Rover's poor excuse at meeting emissions
requirements by diluting the exhaust with air. Any thoughts on the matter?

Has anyone on this list have any experience with fixing on the Petronix
electronic ignition to the 2.6l motor? Is it worth the effort in
performance gains and lack of maintenance? How prone is it to water damage?
(river fording is a thing we do frequently hereabouts)

Thanks in advance for any response.

Cheers,
Lawrence Lee
2.6l 109 SIII Kerbau (Water Buffalo-it loves mud, often preferring to stay
in it)

>Re: Washed rover does not run:
>First off, mud's conductive - it's probably better than the wiring in the
>car.....8*)
>More to the point (and seriously), I'll lay odds you've got water in the
>high-tension tower of the coil and the distributor cap. Pull the wires, cap
>and rotor and give it all a good dry and polish with a clean cloth and
>reinstall - odds on that'll take care of your problem.
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 11 lines)]
>reinstall - odds on that'll take care of your problem.
>               Alan/Boston, MA...

Lawrence Lee, Art Director
Torque Class Magazine,
The Only Motor Magazine You Have to be Seen In
MPH Trade Publications (S) Pte Ltd,
12 Tagore Drive, Singapore 787621
Tel: 453 8200  DID: 450 6005  Fax: 453 8600

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Nov 1997 22:59:35 -0800
From: "Con P. Seitl" <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: LRO November issue

Dixon Kenner wrote:
> On Thu, 20 Nov 1997, Con P. Seitl wrote:
> >   That's why we call it "Royal Storage" ;->
>         I was being nice and polite.  My general term for them is
> Communist Post.  Who else would have a corporate logo that looks like an
> envelope flying through a shredder...

Veerre interestink comrade, yourr beeink vatched !

Con Seitl
1973 III 88 "Pig" ( but it's only a rumor )

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Nov 1997 21:02:55 -0500 (EST)
From: David Scheidt <david@math.earlham.edu>
Subject: Re: needed help

On Thu, 20 Nov 1997, Russell G. Dushin wrote:

> Sandy Grice offerred sound bench bleeding advice for a CB master...but
> I've tried and failed many a time to put a bench bled master back in 
> without depressing the pedal ever so slightly, then promptly sucking

You need to, while the cylinder is still on the bench, depress the pedal
all the way, and fix it in that posistion.  Then screw a blanking plug
into output.  Get the thing back in place, and have the assistant hold the
pedal on the floor while you attach the pipes.  This worked for me, but
generally I can't talk anyone into helping, even with offers of beer and
food.  If you get air into the system it is not going to come out without
a vaccum or pressure bleed.  Break down and make, buy, beg, borrow or
steal one.  They are worth every cent.  Besides, Rover put the spare on
the bonnet to make attaching a Gunson's Easy-bleed much easier, right?  I
haven't tried the Russel dushin-brake-pedal-acrobatic method, so I dunno
if htat works.  

> I didn't see the original post that prompted Sandy's response, but
> make damned sure you don't just have a brake or four that is badly
> in need of adjustment, or for that matter, that one or more of your
> brake adjusters aren't kosher...this will give you the same "two or three
> pumps-it's gotta be air in the system" diagnosis.

The original post was "I can't get anything to come out of my CB master",
which sounded to me like the damn thing is just broken.  Is it possible to
convert to the CV style master?

David/mr Sinclair.  

 > 
> rd/nige
> make damned sure you don't just have a brake or four that is badly

--------
David_Scheidt@math.earlham.edu

yip yip yip yap yap yak yap yip *BANG*  -- no terrier

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Nov 1997 23:02:17 -0800
From: "Con P. Seitl" <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Water problem

Dixon Kenner wrote:
> On Tue, 18 Nov 1997, MALCOLM R FORBES wrote:
> > I have trouble using "waterproof" and "series  Land Rover" in the same
> > sentence.  :-)
>         I don't...  If your girlfriend is waterproof, she will happily go
> on a drive with you in your Series Land Rover...  It all depends what you
> are applying the term "waterproof" to... :-)

It also depends on what your applying the waterproofing to!

Con Seitl
1973 III 88 "Pig"

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Nov 1997 21:07:14 -0500 (EST)
From: David Scheidt <david@math.earlham.edu>
Subject: Re: Was Poor running 2.6l

On Fri, 21 Nov 1997, Lawrence Lee wrote:

> By the way, Alan, does your motor have this thing called the AIR PUMP? I
 see it listed in the operation manual for my rover. ('81 SIII 109) It
looks
 like a supercharger to me, but the air seem to be blown into the exhaust
 manifold through this system of air rails - a strange way to supercharge,
 as there would not be any boost ot the intake pressures, but rather, it
 seems to me that it is Rover's poor excuse at meeting emissions
> requirements by diluting the exhaust with air. Any thoughts on the matter?

That is exactly what the air pump is for. I always thought they were a
damn silly thing.

David/Mr. Sinclair
--------
David_Scheidt@math.earlham.edu

yip yip yip yap yap yak yap yip *BANG*  -- no terrier

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Nov 1997 23:06:27 -0800
From: "Con P. Seitl" <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Yep, a broken half shaft

Chris Stevens wrote:
> The diagnosis was correct all you Rover doctors--a broken half shaft (right
> side) it was. Any more ideas on removing the three-inch stub that is left
> inside? Nate D. suggests a killer magnet.
> Chris Stevens
> 1969 Series IIa SW

Chris; Pull the other axle , poke in a long ( 3' ) rod (3/16 " should do) 
and push past the centre pin that the gears rotate on. Give it a whack, 
slide a magnet in from the other side and pull "er out.

Con Seitl
1973 III 88 "Pig"

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Thu, 20 Nov 1997 22:07:04 -0500
Subject: Re: Was Poor running 2.6l

Glad to hear you're back running better.

Changing the needle is no big deal - check that and see. You won't
assasinate it by running it a tiny bit lean, unless you tend toward
200-mile highway runs in the hot sun.

As far as the air pump, I can't help you. I've never seen one on a Rover,
but it doesn't surprise me they tried something that incredibly stupiid.

               ajr

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Nov 1997 00:00:47 -0400
From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Was Poor running 2.6l

Lawrence Lee wrote:
> Hi Alan,
> Thanks for the advice.
> Cleaned off the WD-40 from the distributor and plug leads but engine still
> hesitates. Leaned the mixture screw on the Zenith-Stromberg by one eighth
> of a turn and problem solved! Well almost :-(

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 21 lines)]
> seems to me that it is Rover's poor excuse at meeting emissions
> requirements by diluting the exhaust with air. Any thoughts on the matter?
The Air pump was used extensivly as part as most manufacturers emissions
controls before they went to fuel injection for the N American market so
don't blame it on Rover. It was better than some systems which attempted
reduce CO emissions by making the exhaust so rich it could almost be
used as a fuel itself.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Nov 1997 00:03:25 -0400
From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Was Poor running 2.6l

OOPs sorry I forgot the sign the last remail
     John and Muddy

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Nov 1997 00:06:36 -0500 (EST)
From: Russ Wilson <rwilson@usaor.net>
Subject: Re: Yep, a broken half shaft

>The diagnosis was correct all you Rover doctors--a broken half shaft (right
>side) it was. Any more ideas on removing the three-inch stub that is left
>inside? Nate D. suggests a killer magnet.
>Chris Stevens
>1969 Series IIa SW

I had to do this a while back.... I'll tell you up front that it  sucks.
First pull the drain plug at the bottom of the dif. Piece of shaft is too
big to go out the bottom??  If so, Get a "killer Magnet" tie a string to
it.  Straighten out a coat hanger...trust me on this...   tape the end of
the string to the coat hanger and shove it UP throught the drain hole and
out the right side of the axle housing.  Now you have a magnet that will
grab your chunk of shaft that you can pull out the housing.  This was the
answer that I came up with last year after a bit of Guinness and sitting on
the curb looking at my non-moving Rover.  It sounds a bit like the long way
around but it is simple in the end.  Good luck

Russ Wilson
Leslie Bittner

Fort Pitt Land Rover Group
Pittsburgh, Pa.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Nov 1997 00:13:31 -0500 (EST)
From: Russ Wilson <rwilson@usaor.net>
Subject: PTO Winch For Sale

Koenig PTO winch for sale.  With roller fairlead and cable.  This is a
front unit that is driven from the crank at the starter dog, NOT the
transfercase.  This will not interfere with an overdrive unit if you are
using one.
The unit is in Pittsburgh Pa. I can pack and ship cheaply..
Price is Neg...make me an offer...

Russ Wilson
Leslie Bittner

Fort Pitt Land Rover Group
Pittsburgh, Pa.

------------------------------

From: MOMBARI@aol.com
Date: Fri, 21 Nov 1997 00:28:18 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Rover P4 90

Rover owners, sorry, forgot that I am not on the LR list. I wrote about the
2.6L engine. Can you please e-mail me directly as I don't belong to the list.
(I already belong to 3 list already and the mail flood is incredible).
Thanx.....roland P.S. can anyone tell me what color the engine was
originally?

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Nov 1997 22:30:51 -0800
From: Jeremy Bartlett <bartlett@slip.net>
Subject: Posties (NonLR) was Re: LRO November issue

Dixon Kenner wrote:

>         I was being nice and polite.  My general term for them is
> Communist Post.  Who else would have a corporate logo that looks like an
> envelope flying through a shredder...

Ah yes. ... brings back fond memories of my years in the great
red...ooops..white, north :)
A friend of mine runs his own company out in Vancouver and at one point the
building was having elevator problems and his mail stopped.  Upon
complaining
he was told that regulations (union) prohibited posties from walking up more
than
3 flights of stairs!  Another friend in Ontario had a friend working at a
postal loading
dock where a fellow was killed in fork lift races.....  of course they
couldn't have
been racing to actually load anything.

cheers

Jeremy

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Nov 1997 07:35:33 +0100
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Subject: Re: looking for a part..

I know you can get this part easily here in Denmark / try

Sjelle Autov;rksted, Marius, Jan or Per Bertlesen
+45 86 95 42 07

they speak english and have a barn full of rovers SI-Disco

remember that Denmark is one hour ahead of GMT!

Good luck!

Adrian Redmond

---------------------------------------------------
CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
---------------------------------------------------
telephone (office)		    +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)		    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data                +45 86 57 24 46
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e-mail			     channel6@post2.tele.dk
HoTMaiL (www.e-mail)	channel6denmark@hotmail.com
---------------------------------------------------
Visit our homepages!                www.channel6.dk
---------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: Andy Phillips <AnPi@norsk-data.co.uk>
Subject: RE: Wranglers and non-LR 4x4s
Date: Fri, 21 Nov 1997 08:26:00 -0000

You think the defenders are in limbo! I have a 90 that isn't a defender
and its got a diesel engine! That's why I came to the series list. From
what I saw of both lists this one talks less about petrol engines and
stereos and more about panel fabrication etc. This isn't a moan as I
understand that the coiler's list has been created by common interest
and I still get the digest from it each day. However, I do find this
list better serves my needs and I'm also more likely to understand
what's being discussed and contribute with an answer.

Andy.

> -----Original Message-----
> There is a reason for this, you are on a primarily Series oriented
> list.
> There is another one for Coil Sprung Rovers that is dedicated to Range
> Rover/Discos. The Defender crowd are kinda in a limbo sort of list,
> they are
> coil sprung but at the same time they qualify as a Series Land Rover
> (The
> best of both worlds) ;)

------------------------------

From: "Andy Woodward" <azw@aber.ac.uk>
Date: Fri, 21 Nov 1997 11:26:09 +0000
Subject: Component life

>two.  Silicone is not hygroscopic, but does anyone know of it's
>service life?  As far as I'm concerned, silicone's only drawback is
>its price, $7-8 a pint.  (I know, I should buy it by the gallon.)

Another I've been told about is that since it doesnt absorb water, 
and condensation occuring in the system will collect at its lowest 
parts - the wheel cylinders instead of being absorbed into the fluid.

------------------------------

From: CIrvin1258@aol.com
Date: Fri, 21 Nov 1997 06:44:12 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: British Northworst is now on the web

Christopher,

After reading your post, I get images of good 'ol Moss Motors! (the other
Anti-Christ that I refuse to deal with) Guess I should point my cross in
their direction, too.

Charles

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Fri, 21 Nov 1997 06:44:33 -0500
Subject: Stuck valve quandry - what caused it?

Mr. Churchill stuck the exhaust valve on his #2 cylinder lat night on the
highway - a most unpleasant thing.

Once I got home and got the cylinder head off, it turned out that the valve
had adhered to the guide in one spot, damaging the surfaces of both.
Considering this head has all of 100-120 miles on it, I am seriously
thinking that the machine shop mis-reamed or didn't ream the guides,
causing the present problem.

My question is - what else could cause this to happen?

He wasn't leaking anywhere in the head gasket, as I inspected the gasket
and mating surfaces for signs of it.

Looks to me like a not-so-simple case of machinist screwup.

                    Help! -Alan

------------------------------

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