Land Rover Owner Message Digest Contents


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The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

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msgSender linesSubject
1 NADdMD@aol.com 22Re: Wiper Motor Conversion Info
2 "Huub Pennings" [HPS@fs120 Re: petrol engine redline, diesel handthrottle + more
3 Simon Ward-Hastelow [sim12[not specified]
4 "Davies, Scott" [sdavies27RE: Gun Crazy
5 kelliott@intranet.ca (Ke22Re: Gun Crazy
6 Paul Oxley [paul@adventu28Re: Gun Crazy
7 M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (M14Re: Gun Crazy
8 Russ Wilson [rwilson@usa27Re: Gun Crazy
9 IBEdwardp@aol.com 28Re: Smiths Heaters
10 kelliott@intranet.ca (Ke23Re: Gun Crazy (No LR Content)
11 Mike Johnson [johnsonm@b12Re: Gun Crazy
12 QROVER80@aol.com 50Sodbury Report
13 SPYDERS@aol.com 23Re: Nov. LROI issue
14 bent@boehlers-dk.com (Be39Sallisbury axle diff change
15 john cranfield [john.cra15Re: Gun Crazy
16 "Christopher H. Dow" [do18Re: Wiper Motor Conversion Info
17 john cranfield [john.cra18Re: Nov. LROI issue
18 "Tom Dixon" [tomd@clear.16landrover owner/amateur radio
19 NADdMD@aol.com 19Re: Paint Codes, Steering
20 Mike Johnson [johnsonm@b34Re: landrover owner/amateur radio
21 Bob Sjonnesen [bob@canco16Mud Tires - 1957 Series I
22 ASFCO@worldnet.att.net 16Solihull Amateur radio Society
23 SPYDERS@aol.com 28Front Bumpers/turn signals
24 "Johan van Staden" [JCVS23 Rochester Carb
25 Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lo18Re: Rochester Carb
26 Eric Zipkin [ericz@cloud20Re: Looking for Brian Davies
27 SPYDERS@aol.com 28Re: Lumenition/coolant
28 "Christopher H. Dow" [do25Lucas Oddity
29 SPYDERS@aol.com 23Re: Re: landrover owner/amateur radio
30 ivosloo@cs.up.ac.za 15Third tank in 88"
31 ivosloo@cs.up.ac.za 81Re: Fuel-outlet-pipe
32 ivosloo@cs.up.ac.za 19Re: Oil change interval - synthetic.
33 ivosloo@cs.up.ac.za 15Parabolic springs
34 DEFENDER@ibm.net 16Re: Oil change interval - synthetic.
35 Mike Johnson [johnsonm@b24Re: Oil change interval - synthetic.
36 "MALCOLM R FORBES" [MALC140Re: Is there a geologist in the house?
37 "barnett childress" [bar19Re: Oil change interval - synthetic.
38 Paul Nash [paul@frcs.alt25110 diesel conversions
39 RykRover@aol.com 9Re: Gun Crazy
40 john cranfield [john.cra12Re: Gun Crazy
41 rover@pinn.net (Alexande24Redlined
42 rover@pinn.net (Alexande24November LROi Magazine
43 David Scheidt [david@mat22cold starting problem
44 "K. John Wood" [jwrover@36Re: Paint codes, Steering
45 Hank Rutherford [ruthrfr46Spark Plug Woes
46 "William L. Leacock" [wl28Steering
47 Rick Grant [rgrant@cadvi19Re: November LROi Magazine
48 john cranfield [john.cra18Re: November LROi Magazine
49 Wesley Harris [wharris@m25Re: November LROi Magazine
50 CIrvin1258@aol.com 19Re: Shipping 'cross the pond (no gun content)
51 Jeremy Bartlett [bartlet16Re: Lucas Oddity
52 CIrvin1258@aol.com 21Re: Gun Crazy
53 ivosloo@cs.up.ac.za 49Re: Fuel-outlet-pipe - correction


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From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 07:11:20 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Wiper Motor Conversion Info

In a message dated 97-11-11 00:34:21 EST, you write:

 the motor care which way the current flows?" >>

For some reason, the wiper circuit needs the power directly to the motor.  If
the switch is on the power side, the parking mechanism doesn't get power when
you turn off the switch.  

You get the same effect if you turn off the key with wipers running on modern
cars.

In my case, it was a bit simpler because I have the 1 speed single wiper
motor circa '67-'68, but my understanding is the same principle applies to
the 2 speed motor.

Nate

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From: "Huub Pennings" <HPS@fs1-kfih.azr.nl>
Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 13:25:01 +0100
Subject:       Re: petrol engine redline, diesel handthrottle + more

Hello, John

A used gearbox in reasonable condition would in Holland bring 
aprox. 150 UKP,
A rebuild unit goes for 290 UKP
A new (unused) ex military is offered for 370 UKP.
I know since I probably need one myself in the near future.
So what is your price going to be????
Regards,

Huub Pennings

e-mail adress
Pennings@kfih.azr.nl

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Subject: Gun Crazy
Date: Tue, 11 Nov 97 13:36:18 +0000
From: Simon Ward-Hastelow <simon.110.v8@dial.pipex.com>

Am I on the wrong list - I'm getting more gun related messages than 
Landrover ones.

GUNS KILL - PEOPLE DIE

I am now unsubscribing from the list

swh

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From: "Davies, Scott" <sdavies@monetpost.stdavids.ncr.com>
Subject: RE: Gun Crazy
Date: Tue, 11 Nov 97 13:51:00 PST

Looks like someone had a sense of humour bypass operation:-)

I've been using guns for sport for the past 18 years, haven't seen anyone 
killed.

Scott Davies '85 110 2.5D HT
BSA MK4 and  BSA MK2 target rifles.
 ----------
From: Simon Ward-Hastelow
Subject: Gun Crazy
Date: 11 November 1997 13:36

Am I on the wrong list - I'm getting more gun related messages than
Landrover ones.

GUNS KILL - PEOPLE DIE

I am now unsubscribing from the list

swh

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Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 08:52:38 -0500 (EST)
From: kelliott@intranet.ca (Keith Elliott)
Subject: Re: Gun Crazy

>Am I on the wrong list - I'm getting more gun related messages than 
>Landrover ones.
>GUNS KILL - PEOPLE DIE

People kill, the gun is just the tool. If there were no guns people would
use something else to kill with.

>I am now unsubscribing from the list
>swh
>GUNS KILL - PEOPLE DIE

Why?

Keith

1961 Series II 88"
Ottawa

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Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 15:53:57 +0200
From: Paul Oxley <paul@adventures.co.za>
Subject: Re: Gun Crazy

Simon Ward-Hastelow wrote:

> Am I on the wrong list - I'm getting more gun related messages than
> Landrover ones.
> GUNS KILL - PEOPLE DIE
> I am now unsubscribing from the list
> swh

Gee Guys,

I'm convinced that it's actually intolerance that causes people to kill
other people, using guns, knives, knitting needles, Land Rovers,
whatever.

Try to be a little more tolerant Simon, OK?

Regards

Paul Oxley
"into Africa adventures" The African Adventure-travel Webzine
http://www.adventures.co.za
"AfricanAdrenalin" Sign up for adventure here...
http://AfricanAdrenalin.co.za & http://AfricanAdrenalin.com

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Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 14:00:56 +0000
From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Subject: Re: Gun Crazy

Am I on the wrong list - I'm getting more gun related messages than
Landrover ones.
>GUNS KILL

And Land Rover makes vehicles upon which to mount them.And when it
comes to pass that the people for whom they were made finish with
them,we get more nice toys to play with.......

Mike Rooth

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Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 09:05:54 -0500 (EST)
From: Russ Wilson <rwilson@usaor.net>
Subject: Re: Gun Crazy

>Am I on the wrong list - I'm getting more gun related messages than
>Landrover ones.
>GUNS KILL - PEOPLE DIE
>I am now unsubscribing from the list
>swh

I really have to say that seeing someone with such a close minded view of
the world leave our little group is no great loss. A little gun talk and he
wants to cover his ears and run away crying?? This is not about guns,
abortion  or any other controversial topic. The List is about Rovers but
hey, we all have outside interests that will on occasion come out on the
list.  If you can't stand having a conversation with someone that shares a
different view of the world who do you talk to?  Do you surround yourself
with people who are exactly like you and share all of your views?? Do they
all dress alike as well? Hmmm looking at this person's E-mail
address(simon.110.v8@dial.pipex.com)  Perhaps he will find nice, safe
(boreing) conversation on the coil list.

Russ Wilson
Leslie Bittner

1967 88 "The Little Green Rover"

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From: IBEdwardp@aol.com
Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 09:10:26 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Smiths Heaters

As many may have suspected, the ubiquitous Smiths Heater predates the
Land-Rover and has been used in other vehicles.  Originally marketed as the
Smiths Thermal Unit, the exported models became so popular in tropical areas
that many simply referred to them as "British" thermal units.  Eventually the
Smiths Heater became the standard by which all other heating devices were
judged.  Hence, one Smith's Heater equaled one British thermal unit.  Of
course, over the years there have been improvements in engineering and
materials enabling Smiths Heaters of recent manufacture to almost double the
original capacity, in some instances producing almost two BTUs under optimum
conditions.  Thought someone might be interested.

BTW my Land-Rover is gr**n, although I seldom admit this in public.  I am in
the process of painting the whole thing faux limestone (ie. International
Harvester white).  I realize this may be a sacrilege, but I wanted to avoid
controversy.

For those of you who don't carry firearms, how do you shoot the road signs
your parts of the country (world)?

Ed Bailey
(Somewhere in East Tennessee)
66IIa SWB  (Nameless orphan)

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Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 09:31:26 -0500 (EST)
From: kelliott@intranet.ca (Keith Elliott)
Subject: Re: Gun Crazy (No LR Content)

In this mornings Ottawa Citizen:

"Keith Flaro was enjoying the tranquility of an afternoon canoe ride when a
bullet fired by a CARELESS HUNTER struck him in the back and killed him
instantly." 

This is disturbing to me because I knew Keith when I was growing up in the
same town. This is just another example of how the gun is not responsible
for killing but rather an inrresponsible person carrying a gun is. The
article goes on to say that alcohol use is suspected. Driving home every
night from work (I live in a very rural area) I see hunters out drinking
beer and carrying guns. It is a scary site. I fully support the peoples
right to own a gun but I also think that something like a "RIDE" program
should be in place during hunting season to try and curb alcohol consumption
while out on the hunt. I really don't understand these people that say that
guns kill and that all firearms should be banned, do they think that the ban
on fully auto weapons keep the criminals from getting them? It is easier to
get a auto AK47 than it is to get an old Land Rover around my area.

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Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 09:40:54 -0500
From: Mike Johnson <johnsonm@borg.com>
Subject: Re: Gun Crazy

At 01:36 PM 11/11/97 +0000, you wrote:

>GUNS KILL - PEOPLE DIE

To be more accurate,  guns don't kill people,  bullets do. hehehe

Mike Johnson

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From: QROVER80@aol.com
Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 09:42:26 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Sodbury Report

Sodbury.
 In a word........ WOW. It is an event like this that puts the Landrover
scene in England into perspective for us, we mere colonials. By invitation
Spenny and I got there the night before and frankly we were a bit
disappointed for there were only a couple of vendors in evidence. However we
were assured by the "Old Sod " Jim Tewsbury,  himself that they were
expecting about 150 vendors in the morning.  After an entertaining evening in
the local pub talking about Landrovers with the lads from Simmonites we
retired to the a local B and B and after leaving a wake up call for 7 am,
evidently a bit early by the look on the landlady's face, we retired for the
night. The next morning after a fine breakfast we drove back to the site.
Fully a half mile from the gate the line of Rovers started. These were the
VENDORS mind you not the public. We reported to "control," were given vests
with "Sodbury sortout" on them and when we asked how we might make ourselves
useful were told to "go chat with the blokes waiting in the queue" Note
.....insert sounds of arm twisting throughout. :-) after half an hour of this
onerous task I left Spenny taking a few photos and wandered back to the main
field. There I found things working well with vendors being sorted out by
Jim's daughter Sue and sent to a general area in one of the two fields. There
were so many rovers and rover parts that Spenny and I forgot to take more
than a few pictures.  In Spenny's case this was particularly astonishing as
during one point of our trip I watched him take between 10 and 20 pictures of
the same sheep ! 
  Like all the swap meets I have ever been to there were fantastic bargains
to be had, some seen walking the other way in someone else's hand. Some rare
in the US items were quite common. I saw a lot of tailgates, Pick up cabs and
lift gates. Some items were not . I only saw one 109 hoop set. Alas some rare
items were entirely absent , I never did find a full hard top for the 80" :-(
 The quantity and variety of available parts was daunting. Spenny and I both
forgot about simple consumable parts like head sets and water pumps till we
were in the car on our way home.  Next time :-)  There were understandably a
lot of 90 and 110 parts and a fair number of Disco and Range Rover stuff but
even so I would estimate that it was at least 1/2 series stuff. 
 We bought LOTS of stuff but we should have gotten more. By the time we had
assembled the stuff in one spot the pile of booty half buried the car, so I
got some of our new found friends to truck the works up to the north for me.
 The Sodbury sortout is the largest dedicated Landrover swap meet in the
world and I would say that for the true Roverist it is probably a pilgrimage
worth the taking EVEN if you have to come from as far as North America.  The
only question is how do we get all the booty home? Container anyone? 
The next sortout is in the end of March 1998. My advice would be start
planning NOW.

Rgds Quintin Aspin

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From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 09:59:32 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re:  Nov. LROI issue

In a message dated 11/11/97 9:22:17 AM, you wrote:

>>Jim we at the post office would not delay delivery of a magazine just to
>>read it.  It must have gotten misrouted.

Then Sandy wrote:

>I doubt it.  I don't know *anyone* who has gotten the November LRO.  It's at

>least three weeks late....

I *know* why I haven't gotten mine... I find it much cheaper to read my
neighbor's, so I let the subscription run out. Borders also carries it and
they have these comfy chairs and good coffee too...  ;-)

pat
93  110

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From: bent@boehlers-dk.com (Bent Böhlers)
Subject: Sallisbury axle diff change
Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 15:04:03 GMT

 "Dani K.A. Mansjoer" <dani-net@indo.net.id> wrote:

My SIII 109 equiped with V8-3.5l engine and rear Sallisbury axle is
fitted
with 4.71 
gear diff.  I would change it to 3.54 gear diff. for better fuel
economy. 
Is it an easy 
job to do (just change the crown and pinion gears) or I will need
additional parts or special tools?
Can anyone advise me? thanks.

Yes, You will need a special tool to press the diff house a little,
before You can remove the diff block.
You will also need to change the  gear on the front axle at the same
time.
Your car will be a little higher in ALL gears, also the low-range,
giving less power in offroad conditions.

If You have the 4 speed permanent fourwheel drive gearbox, there is
another posibility, change the gearwheels in the high/low box, but
only for the high range. Then You will get a higher highrange with
better fueleconomy on good roads, and keep the very low range
unchanged for good power when leaving the road.

You can use the gearwheels from the similar Range-Rover box.

Happy Rovering

--
Bent Boehlers
bent@boxehlers-dk.com Remove the "x" to mail me
http://www.boehlers-dk.com

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Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 12:09:20 -0400
From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Gun Crazy

Simon Ward-Hastelow wrote:
> Am I on the wrong list - I'm getting more gun related messages than
> Landrover ones.
> GUNS KILL - PEOPLE DIE
> I am now unsubscribing from the list

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 10 lines)]
> I am now unsubscribing from the list
> swh
No more Hastle  it is what we are all looking for!!!

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Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 08:27:24 -0800
From: "Christopher H. Dow" <dow@thelen.org>
Subject: Re: Wiper Motor Conversion Info

NADdMD@aol.com wrote:

> << So, the part of my brain that understands electricity wonders "Why does
>  the motor care which way the current flows?" >>
> For some reason, the wiper circuit needs the power directly to the motor.  If
> the switch is on the power side, the parking mechanism doesn't get power when
> you turn off the switch.

 
OK.  But does the diagram I described make sense to you?

Thanks a bunch for the help,
C

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Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 12:02:57 -0400
From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Nov. LROI issue

Alexander P. Grice wrote:
> Barrie wrote:
> >Jim we at the post office would not delay delivery of a magazine just to
> >read it.  It must have gotten misrouted.
> I doubt it.  I don't know *anyone* who has gotten the November LRO.  It's at
> least three weeks late....

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 18 lines)]
>       |    757-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 757-622-7056    |
>       *---1972 Series III 88"-----1996 Discovery SE-7(m)---*
I got my Nov issue in Nova Scotia last week wednesday  I think  but
I live in God's Country!
  john and Muddy

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From: "Tom Dixon" <tomd@clear.net.nz>
Subject: landrover owner/amateur radio
Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 20:51:26 +1300

A very big congratulation is in order for Doug for passing his tech amateur
radio licence. He has now in my humble opinion combined two of the best
hobbies going as they both complement each other. I am sure he will have
hours of enjoyment. Once he works on the code there will be no stopping him
and contrary to belief it is NOT an expensive hobby

Cheers.... Tom Dixon
ZL2UPG
79 series 3 lwb (in many pieces)
tomd@clear.net.nz

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From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 11:51:07 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Paint Codes, Steering

In a message dated 97-11-11 10:53:17 EST, you write:

<< If the wheels are straight ahead and the bottom lever is also, then
 the top lever should be perfectly perpendicular.  If not, then
 adjust the top lever so that it is perpendicular
 
 	I think that it's the top lever that's out.  Thanks... >>

Check the manual, I believe (on a IIa) the drop arm isn't exactly 90 degrees
but I don't remember which way it tips.  I believe the workshop manual says
the angle and shows a picture of the proper position.

Nate

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Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 13:00:18 -0500
From: Mike Johnson <johnsonm@borg.com>
Subject: Re: landrover owner/amateur radio

>A very big congratulation is in order for Doug for passing his tech amateur

>radio licence. He has now in my humble opinion combined two of the best

>hobbies going as they both complement each other. I am sure he will have

>hours of enjoyment. Once he works on the code there will be no stopping him

>and contrary to belief it is NOT an expensive hobby.

I'll second the congrats.  As for the expense,  I have a couple of hobbies and the outlay looks something like this:

Photography w/o darkroom  $1400

Ham Radio                 $1000

Computer +equipment       $5000

Land-Rover                $5500

Nothing outragous 'cept for the computer,  but it combines several disciplines that I like to keep keen on.  Now I could travel to Botswana,  take pictures and packet radio my pics and story out to someone who doesn't care.  Good thing thats not my job.

Cheers

<center>Michael Johnson

johnsonm@borg.com

http://www.borg.com/~johnsonm</center>

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From: Bob Sjonnesen <bob@cancom.net>
Subject: Mud Tires - 1957 Series I
Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 13:05:48 -0500

I've been having difficulty getting through some mud holes with my =
current tires.  They are 6.50 x 16.  A friend has some surplus Marshall =
Power Guards LT 235-85-R16 that I can get at a very favourable price.

Will I be able to fit these on the existing rims?

Cheers

Bob Sjonnesen (bob@cancom.net)
Elliot Lake, Ontario, Canada 

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From: ASFCO@worldnet.att.net
Subject: Solihull Amateur radio Society
Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 18:29:32 +0000

For the Hams here on the lists I came across a rather unique QSL card.. it
is from the Solihull Amateur Radio Society and dated 3/22/87
   It is yellow with the LR oval Logo front and back and has pictures of a
RR and a 110 on the front
the Callsign GB4NEC is not listed in the database any longer.
  Any other hams have one of these cards? 
Rgds
Steve Bradke       96 Discovery
WA2GMC             72 S lll 88 (For Sale)
                   68 S lla 88                 

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From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 13:43:08 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Front Bumpers/turn signals

I've tweaked the front bumper on my truck (by creating a non-existent parking
spot). I also re-straightened it when leaving the parking spot. There are
some slight waves in the top part out near the right end, which I could care
less about, but what bugs me is the malleability of the whole bumper. To make
things worse, the truck has the turn signal lights in the bumper itself,
which means big oval holes in the front of it, which is where it tweaked.

After thinking about it for a while, I'm probably going to get an aftermarket
bumper. The SG unit looks appealing. If I get it, I will re-locate the turn
signals to use one pair of the four yellow lights on the front. 

My question is: Which pair, the upper or the lower? I've seen rovers with the
turn signals on top, on the bottom and next to the running lights, leading me
to wonder if it is a year-to-year thing or a country-to-country code change.

I'm also going to try to get the bumper without the bars across the top.
(rovers don't kill people, the bull bars do. hee hee ;-) ) Just kidding, I
have a set of headlight grilles that preclude the use of bull bars/brush
guards/hip breakers.

pat
93  110

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From: "Johan van Staden" <JCVS@gold.up.ac.za>
Date:          Tue, 11 Nov 1997 18:15:48 GMT+2
Subject:       Rochester Carb

I followed the Rochester Carb discussion with interest. On the SII I 
know there is Solex and Zenith and Weber, but Rochester seems unknown 
around here. Gossip says that Weber makes a dramatic difference to an 
old but healthy 2.25 SII. From this thread I conclude that Rochester 
makes a dramatic difference squared. Please tell me more. Who makes 
it? What old/new other cars use the Rochester? Does it really convert 
the SII into a dragster using no fuel? What about the links and the 
springs and the air cleaner hose? Does it sit on the manifold without 
trouble? Where can I get one?

Best regards
Johan van Staden
Gold Fields Computer Centre for Education
Faculty of Science, University of Pretoria
Pretoria 0002
South Africa
Tel: x-12-420 2470  Fax: x-12-420-3874

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From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 14:15:01 -0500
Subject: Re: Rochester Carb

Good reason youy're not familiar with the old Rochester - it was used on
old Chevrolets in the United States, and isn't really an available
aftermarket carburettor.

Holden may have the Rochester or an equivalent to it (as rumor has it that
they were closely allied with GM). Might be worth a look around for a
carburettor fitting a 250 cubic-inch 6-cylinder Holden engine from the
1950s to the 1960s.

Check a carburettor specialist shop - they may be able to help.

               Al Richer

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Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 14:30:59 -0500
From: Eric Zipkin <ericz@cloud9.net>
Subject: Re: Looking for Brian Davies

Try: (860) 354-7552

At 07:40 PM 11/10/97 -0500, you wrote:
>I've been trying to call Brian Davies for several days with no success. He
>has a grey-market RR I'm *very* interested in. Anyone in the northeast
>atlantic seaboard area, who knows him, please send me a note.
>He lives in Connecticut, which I understand is a suburb of NYC.
>TIA!!
>Cheers!!

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 22 lines)]
>Land Rovers for Recreation!
>Land Rovers forever!! D.V.
Eric Zipkin
Bedford, NY  USA

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From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 14:32:49 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re:  Lumenition/coolant

In a message dated 11/11/97 1:47:15 PM, Ozzie wrote:

>Anyway Filipinos also
>do not use coolant ( resulting in corrosion) and just love to remove
thermostats.
>Interesting FIY.  I actually bought coolant at Pep Boys in LA , they
currently
>don't
>stock it here in Cebu , Phil.

Don't use coolant and remove thermostats; why is that? I remember so many
vehicles in the philippines having overheating problems, the same vehicles
that ran just fine in the middle east where the daytime temps were hotter.
IMHO, there should be warning labels on *all* engines in the philippines
"Engine runs hotter without thermostat and/or with timing set wrong".

I know you can find coolant closer than LA; there is Prestone (anti-freeze)
in most big gas stations in manila. Perhaps it is cebuano pride that keeps
coolant off the island ;-).

pat
93  110

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Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 11:34:32 -0800
From: "Christopher H. Dow" <dow@thelen.org>
Subject: Lucas Oddity

Yesterday as I was leaving for work, I noticed that my right-hand
turning indicator wasn't functioning properly.  The front bulb would
flash (somewhat fast), but the rear bulb wasn't operating and niether
was the indicator on the switch.  

This morning, I got out my DMM and set out to find the problem.  I
checked the voltage everywhere and it was the same (around 5V--odd, but
I have a lot of voltage drop problems here & there).  Everywhere means
at the rear socket, at the junction for the rear harness, and at the
junction at the front.  I then decided to check the volage at the front
socket.  When I removed the bulb, the rear lamp started to blink.  I
then replaced the bulb, and both lamps worked.  There was a bit of water
in the socket, and I wonder if that was the problem.  

Anyway, all is well now, but I wish I better understood the nature of
the problem and why it is fixed now.

C
'65 IIA 88" SW
'96 Disco SD

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From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 14:35:13 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re:  Re: landrover owner/amateur radio

In a message dated 11/11/97 2:20:26 PM, you wrote:

>As for the expense,  I have a couple of hobbies and the outlay looks
something
>like this:
>Photography w/o darkroom  $1400
>Ham Radio                 $1000
>Computer +equipment       $5000

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 10 lines)]
>Computer +equipment       $5000
>Land-Rover                $5500

I hope that isn't monthly, or maybe those are Italian Dollars you're using...

pat
93  110

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From: ivosloo@cs.up.ac.za
Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 21:33:17 +0000
Subject: Third tank in 88"

Hi all,

did someone on the list maybe sometime try to fit a third tank into a
SIII?  I have two: one below each seat, but really need a third one... 
I am planning to build one myself, but maybe, just maybe one of you
tried the same thing before...

- Iwan Vosloo
( 1975 SIII 88" Diesel )

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From: ivosloo@cs.up.ac.za
Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 21:30:47 +0000
Subject: Re: Fuel-outlet-pipe

Olafur Agust Axelsson wrote:
>         I posted a while ago a question about a fuel-pump on my S3 Diesel - I
> found a part-shop that sells a fitting that has one end that fits the pump
> and another that I can fit the fuel-hose on - But Im still wondering why
> there are TWO hoses to be fitted - and how they are to be fitted There is
> one hose reaching from the fuel filter bowl and the other from the base of
> the fuel-distributor.

Olafur,

I went and had a look at mine and here are the results.  It does not
make sense to me at all, but I did check it with another SIII that
seemed to be untampered with and the two looked the same.
(It would be nice it someone else on the list could double-check this
though...)

I'm not good at ascii-art, so I hope you can draw a picture from this
explanation:

In my car there are 5 components linked together with fuel lines.  The
tank has one pipe into it and one out; the liftpump has one coming in
and two going out; the distributer pump has one going in (at the bottom)
and one coming out again at the top (of course, this excludes the copper
lines to the injectors); the injectors can be viewed as one component,
they are all connected at the top with a copper pipe to which two normal
fuel lines are connected (both sortof going out); and lastly, the fuel
filter (with three lines connected to it).

The out-line from the tank goes directly to my liftpump's 'in'.  Of the
two lines coming out from the liftpump, one goes to the bottom (in) of
the distributor pump and the other one goes to the fuel filter.  The top
(out) of the distributer pump also goes to the fuel filter.  Of the two
pipes on the injector's overflow pipe one goes directly back into the
tank and the other also goes into the fuel filter (it does not matter
which one of the two goes where).

I don't really understand the fuel filter's and I could not see properly
which pipes were going in and which ones are coming out (the thing sits
under the floor :-( ), but, I suspect the pipe at the top goes in, and
that's the one connected to the injectors.  The other 'in' is probably
the one coming out of the distributor pump.  And the one connected to
the liftpump is actually 'out'.

What bothers me about this setup is that I can't figure out how the fuel
gets through the filter BEFORE it gets to the distributor pump.  The
fact that the liftpump's one 'out' is connected to the fuel filter's
'out' does not worry me.  If you draw the picture you'll see that the
only effect it will have is to force the fuel from from the fuel filter
AND the fuel from the liftpump to go via the second liftpump connection
to the distributor pump's in.  All the the overflow from the dist pump
goes into the fuel filter, from where it will be recycled through the
route just described to the dist pump's in again.  The one overflow from
the injectors also goes into the fuel filter, so it also gets filtered
and passed via the route above to the dist pump's 'in'.  The second
overflow from the injectors goes to back to the tank.

What bothers me about this is that all the fuel from all the overflows
get filtered and routed back to the dist pump.  BUT, the very first time
fuel actually exits the lift pump, it goes unfiltered though the dist
pump.  Eeuch.

But I've really checked this on another car and it was linked up exactly
the same.  I wish I could understand it...

I have changed my setup a little.  I put a sedimentor in the exact place
of the fuel filter in the description above and I have added a fuel
filter in the line going from the lift pump to the dist pump.  So that I
can at least be sure the stuff gets filtered before it hits the dist
pump.

I hope this helps a little and would love somebody to confirm/refute my
suspicions about the setup in my car...

- Iwan Vosloo
( 1975 SIII 88" Diesel )

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From: ivosloo@cs.up.ac.za
Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 22:01:40 +0000
Subject: Re: Oil change interval - synthetic.

Dave,

> I am considering using synthetic oil. At what interval do you synthetic
> users change your oil? How about you long term users, like with over
> 200,000
> miles on your rigs, how are they holding up?

As I understand the regular oil changes are to get rid of the impurities
that gets into the oil, not because the oil gets 'worn out'. 
And...synthetic oil would get dirty as quickly as normal oil.

- Iwan Vosloo
( 1975 SIII 88" Diesel )

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From: ivosloo@cs.up.ac.za
Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 22:12:47 +0000
Subject: Parabolic springs

I don't want to start the whole parabolic spring thread up again, but it
would be soo nice if one of you good people can tell ignorant little me
what a parabolic spring is?  I figured from the conversations that they
have a lot better axcle articulation.  Can they carry as much weight? 
Can they just be installed instead of the normal springs, or are any
midifications needed. What's the bad side to this?

- Iwan Vosloo
( 1975 SIII 88" Diesel )

------------------------------
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From: DEFENDER@ibm.net
Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 15:23:23 -0500
Subject: Re: Oil change interval - synthetic.

Not completely true.  conventional motor oil breaks down much faster
than  synthetic.  Granted, even conventional oil will probably not break
down at 3k miles.  The speed at which the oil gets 'dirty' would be the
same but the amount of time it takes them to break down is entirely
different.  This is especially a concern on a 4x4 due to the fact that
they are often pushed harder than on road vehicles.

William Pittman

1997 D90 WAGON

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Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 15:50:38 -0500
From: Mike Johnson <johnsonm@borg.com>
Subject: Re: Oil change interval - synthetic.

>Not completely true.  conventional motor oil breaks down much faster
>than  synthetic.  Granted, even conventional oil will probably not break
>down at 3k miles.  The speed at which the oil gets 'dirty' would be the
>same but the amount of time it takes them to break down is entirely
>different.  This is especially a concern on a 4x4 due to the fact that
>they are often pushed harder than on road vehicles.

>William Pittman

Ask your self what makes oil dirty.  My understanding is that when the
metal parts rub against each other the "dirt" or metallic residue is what
makes oil "dirty".  Thus an oil which better lubricates the parts and
prevent this friction will last longer 'cause it's not getting as "dirty".
Also not taking into account the oil filtration process...

If a synthetic oil supports the bernoulli effect better than crude, it
would be better. or something like that

Mike

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From: "MALCOLM R FORBES" <MALCOLMF@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Is there a geologist in the house?
Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 15:42:29 -0500

Adrian;
I’m neither a geologist nor a mining engineer, but I have worked for over
forty years as a chemist, so let me give you that spin on it.

Metals are only rarely found in nature in the metallic form.  With the
exception of the noble metals (platinum, gold and rarely silver and copper)
metals are all quite reactive and react with nonmetals such as carbon
dioxide (yielding carbonates), oxygen (yielding oxides), sulfur (yielding
sulfides), chlorine (yielding chlorides), silicon & oxygen (yielding
silicates); just to give you the shortest list possible.  

Metals may react with whatever nonmetal is handy, but in time wind up as
compounds with a nonmetal which forms the most stable product.  For example
copper chloride is reasonably stable but in time enough will dissolve in
water where sulfur replaces the chloride to give copper sulfide - insoluble
enough to last for geological time spans.  Many such reactions occur deep
within the earth at extremely high temperatures and pressures.  

Metal compounds which are stable enough to hang around for a long time, and
are found in high enough concentration to make it worth while extracting
are called ores.  Why there are the occasional local concentrations of ores
high enough to be worth mining and extracting is far beyond this short
course in Mining 101. 

Metal compounds are normally found in a rock matrix and it is necessary to
blast this matrix apart to just remove it from the ground.  Usually it is
then necessary to use a rock crusher, or the like, to make little rocks
from big rocks in order to better get at the ore.  

Next step is a beneficiation or up-grading of the active content of the
ore.  Numerous techniques are used for this, eg, flotation (a foaming agent
is added which will selectively cause air bubbles to stick to either the
ore or the matrix material and one or the other can then be skimmed off),
washing (swirl with water to wash away the lighter material as in panning
for gold), drying, milling, magnetic separation, sintering, gravity
concentration, or many, many other processes.  

The metal then has to be won from the ore.  As the ore is in fact a
chemical compound, chemical means are usually used.  Probably the most
ancient is roasting the ore.  Sulfides and oxides are often removed in this
way.  If you heat mercuric oxide (a red powder) in a test tube over a
Bunsen burner you can watch the silvery liquid mercury condense further
down the tube.  This  was a common feature of elementary chemistry classes
until they realized that people were breathing in a lot of mercury vapor! 

Most iron ore is an oxide, and as the proud owner of an older car, you are
likely more aware than most that iron oxide, rust, is not water soluble,
and indeed, most intractable.  It is necessary to smelt iron at high
temperature in a furnace in the presence of a fluxing agent -limestone- and
a pure form of carbon (normally coke today, but the demand for charcoal in
the 1600's stripped much of England’s oak forests).  

The hot coke partially burns with oxygen to form carbon monoxide, a
“reducing” agent capable of stripping the oxygen from the iron oxide,
resulting in carbon dioxide and iron.  With high purity iron oxide this is
all that would be necessary.  However if silica is a contaminant in the
iron ore, limestone (calcium carbonate) is added.  At furnace temperature
the limestone first burns to calcium oxide (in a different life it would be
lime, plaster, mortar, etc) and then reacts with the silica to form a
molten, glassy calcium silicate slag (which can be then used to make
mineral wool).  Conversely, if the primary contaminant is limestone, sand
or other silicaceous material can be used to remove it.  

For excitement, you can make pure iron from a high quality iron oxide by
mixing it thoroughly with about an equal amount of finely divided aluminum
power.  It is difficult to ignite although a typical childs sparkler will
serve.  Once the reaction starts all hell breaks loose and molten iron
flows out of the bottom.  This mix is known as thermite, and is used for in
place welding jobs (eg broken railroad rails).  Also it is found in some
military grenades (the classic way to destroy cannon is to stick a thermite
grenade into the breech, slam it shut and weld the whole thing shut from
the inside).  Essentially you start with iron oxide and aluminum and wind
up with iron and aluminum oxide and a great deal of heat and light.  

Galena or lead sulfide is an important lead ore.  It is first concentrated
by flotation, then roasted to convert it to lead oxide. This lead oxide is
heated with coke and flux, and the molten lead is collected.  

Other metals are separated by chemical processes.  There are mines where
sulfuric acid is pumped into one side of underground deposits of copper
sulfide, carbonate or oxide, and recovered on the opposite side as copper
sulfate solutions.  A direct electrical current is passed through this
solution and the copper collects on the cathode as a high purity metal. 
One of the impurities removed in this process is a sludge of gold which
settles to the bottom of the tank as it is too inert to be involved in this
electrolytic process.  Finished electrolytic copper is a high purity
material.  

Cast iron still has large amounts of carbon dissolved in it, in the form of
iron carbide, as well as significant amounts of phosphorus, sulfur and
other contaminants.   These contaminants make cast iron very brittle.  One
of the methods to make steel from cast iron is to remove these contaminants
using the familiar and spectacular Bessemer converter.  Molten iron is
poured into a huge “bucket” with air holes in the bottom.  Compressed air
is blown in and combines with the undesirable materials and steel is the
result.  High carbon steel has far less carbon in it than cast iron.  

In general the process is to: 
	a) Remove the ore from the ground and take mechanical steps to improve it;
	b) Increase the assay of the ore, or alter the ore, by some process; 
	c) Convert to a metallic form by smelting, electrolysis, roasting or
whatever;  
	d) Purify the metal.

You might find the following site useful: 
Dictionary of Mining, Mineral, and Related Terms
<http://imcg.wr.usgs.gov/dmmrt/>

Sorry, I have exceeded my allowable paragraphs, but I hope you find this
useful anyway..

   ~~\---|
    / \  |\
   /   \ ||\
  /     \|| \   =====__
 /_______||__\  |[__]|_\_==_
\_Swampscott_/  | 65 | SIIa |
 ====(@)======== (@)-----(@)... . -- .--. . .-.   ..-. ..*\:{>

Calm Seas & Prosperous Voyage.
Malcolm Forbes
Merrimack  
New Hampshire

----------
> From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
> To: lro@playground.sun.com
> Subject: Is there a geologist in the house?
> Date: Monday, November 10, 1997 1:29 PM
> Calling all geologists and mining engineers!

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 43 lines)]
> Visit our homepages!                www.channel6.dk
> ---------------------------------------------------

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Date: Tue, 11 Nov 97 16:00:29 -0500
From: "barnett childress" <barnett=childress%eng%emchop1@fishbowl02.lss.emc.com>
Subject: Re: Oil change interval - synthetic.

When I was using regular oil it was pretty black after 3K miles. I'm now 
running Amsoil synthetic in everything. The Amsoil synthetic on the other 
hand is still dark golden at 7K when I change it. I've also noticed in cold 
weather the oil light goes out much faster at start up, and diffs, etc. 
turn easier. The drivetrain even got quieter. I've heard that another 
benefit to synthetic oils is less heat build up.
Cheers,
Barnett 
________ Reply Separator ______
> From: "Mike Johnson" <johnsonm@borg.com>, on 11/11/97 3:50 PM:
-------------
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 25 lines)]
> Mike
> h

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Date: Wed, 12 Nov 1997 09:30:23 +1100
From: Paul Nash <paul@frcs.alt.za>
Subject: 110 diesel conversions

Apologies to those on the za-lro list, who've seen the start of this already.

I was planning to buy a 110 Tdi, but am now getting _very_ tempted by the
idea of an old 110 V8 with a diesel conversion.  I need a station wagon,
and South African Tdi wagons all seem to be pretty new, while there are a
lot of old (read cheap) V8s around.

These big GM engines look tempting (the 6 litre V8 numbers), and I've been
most impressed by the performance of my old Holden-engined sIII.  However,
I assume that there are all sorts of pitfalls.

Has anyone out there been down this path, or knows someone who has?  If so,
what are the pros and cons?  What gearbox should I look for, or should I
swap the gearbox with the engine (recon R380 or some generic GM box)?

Any information is most welcome, as I don't want to make an expensive
mistake.  However, if I can save a bunch of money and have a better 110, it
may just be the way to go.

	paul

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From: RykRover@aol.com
Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 18:58:09 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Gun Crazy

ENOUGH OF THE FREAKIN GUN TALK , WHO GIVES A DAMN!

TIME TO MOVE ONTO SOMETHING ELSE,    RICK

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Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 20:07:09 -0400
From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Gun Crazy

RykRover@aol.com wrote:
> ENOUGH OF THE FREAKIN GUN TALK , WHO GIVES A DAMN!
> TIME TO MOVE ONTO SOMETHING ELSE,    RICK

OR I"LL BLOW YER F**KING HEAD OFF
He he
john

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Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 19:45:06 -0500 (EST)
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Redlined

The Bickertons wrote:
>What does the 2.25 petrol redline at?...Around 7000rpm has been suggested
>before;

That would likely be the rotational speed of the pistons, crank, con-rods 
and whatever after they have exited the bonnet - explosively.  I think Jim 
Allen said he grenaded one at 5,200 or 5,500 RPM.  I know mine starts 
sounding scarry above 4,500.  There really isn't any rational reason to go 
higher on a long-stroke, high torque motor like the 2.25.

      *---"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                  | 
      |     Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |
      |   "The oldest Rover-marque club in the Americas"   |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730    |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 757-622-7054 (Day) |
      |    757-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 757-622-7056    |
      |                                                    |
      *---1972 Series III 88"-----1996 Discovery SE-7(m)---*

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Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 19:45:02 -0500 (EST)
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: November LROi Magazine

>From the LROSHOP:

>November issues should be on the newsstands and subscribers should have
>received their copies by now.

I dunno.  The big local (Barnes and Noble) just got *October*.  I've talked 
with several folks from Boston to DC to Virginia.  While I realize that 
today is Veterans Day and govermnent takes a holiday (UPS just delivered and 
I worked today), I don't know of anyone who has gotten LRO yet.  Anybody?

      *---"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                  | 
      |     Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |
      |   "The oldest Rover-marque club in the Americas"   |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730    |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 757-622-7054 (Day) |
      |    757-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 757-622-7056    |
      |                                                    |
      *---1972 Series III 88"-----1996 Discovery SE-7(m)---*

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Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 20:33:29 -0500 (EST)
From: David Scheidt <david@math.earlham.edu>
Subject: cold starting problem

My IIA has developed a reluctance to start first thing in the morning.
Actually, it starts first time -- like on the first spark-- runs for a
second or three, and then dies.  It then takes 20 or thirty seconds of
cranking to get it to start.  I have good spark at all the plugs, and the
starter spins fast enough, so I guess it is a fuel/air problem.  
The thing that I find really perverse is that if I use the hand crank, it
fires on the first turn, and keeps going.  This doesn't make any sense to
me.  

Anyone have ideas?  

David

--------
David_Scheidt@math.earlham.edu

yip yip yip yap yap yak yap yip *BANG*  -- no terrier

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From: "K. John Wood" <jwrover@colo-net.com>
Subject: Re: Paint codes, Steering 
Date: Sun, 9 Nov 1997 21:22:12 -0700

Paul,

To answer your first question... Sounds like you have some wrong angles.
I'm not 100% sure.Check your manuel, while I was replacing tie-rods this
sujmer it came in handy to get the right angle and positioning...It can
make a huge difference.

Second...On the paint. I've got a guy here in CO that is able to mix the
Dupont paint to spec from old code books and new ones for cross refference.
You might just need to find someone who will take the time. As for "new"
materials. The paint I've discussed with this friend is to be the same
quality as that he applied to my 86 J#@$....ShHHH! But the paint is enamel
and takes a clear cote that gives it an "as new" look.

Good LUCK,

Yours'
K. John Wood
Event Co- Solihull Society

----------
> From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
> To: lro@playground.sun.com
> Subject: Paint codes, Steering 
> Date: Monday, November 10, 1997 12:49 PM
> Hi all,

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 36 lines)]
> 1961 Series II 88
> Victoria, BC  Canada

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Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 21:13:36 -0500 (EST)
From: Hank Rutherford <ruthrfrd@borg.com>
Subject: Spark Plug Woes

Dear all,
      Have been following the recent thread on spark plugs and thought it
was a subject worth commenting on. I've worked on cars on both sides of the
pond, and have come to the personal conclusion that I will NEVER put
Ch*mp**n spark plugs in anything I own besides lawn mowers and snow blowers.
On more than several occasions, vehicles fitted with them have developed
unusual running characteristics. After chasing the problem for hours/days,
(it couldn't be the plugs, they're NEW), one plug would develop a "soft
fail". This is to say, it would fire, but not as strongly as it should. A
check of the tip showed nothing out of the ordinary, it just didn't develop
a strong blue spark. The occasions most strongly burnt into my memory were a
tune on a Mini 1000, and carb sync on a Nissan 260Z where the customer
(female, engineering type, smarter than me) had replaced the cap, rotor,
wires and plugs with Ch*mp**ns. After spending far too many hours on carb
work to solve the "running on 5 1/2 cylinders" problem, (which was solved by
installing a set of B*sch plugs), I had to explain to her that the new plugs
were BAD. Needless to say, she took her new plugs home, muttering about
incompetent furrin' car mechanics. And I didn't get paid for needless hours
spent on a non-existent carb problem. No-one was happy. 
     In both shops I have worked in and several that I frequent, none of
them will use Ch*mp**n plugs. Returns are too difficult to explain in this
tough business. Why invite problems? 
     To note, once Ch*mp**n plugs have proven themselves for several weeks,
they appear to work as well as any others for very long periods of time.
Does anyone have an explanation? It probably has something to do with the
alignment of the moons around Uranus. 
      Another thought, the reason that 8 cylinder vehicles don't seem to
suffer is that a soft fire of on plug in a V8 means 7 1/2 cylinders. Is it
noticeable on a low revving 302, 327, 350, etc? Misfiring on one cylinder of
a V8 is harder to detect than on a four or six.
      And you don't want to know what I think of Spl*tfires! (Gee, I have a
little too much disposable income this week, and I've already purchased curb
feelers, lightening straps and chrome plated mud flaps, let's see how much I
can spend on spark plugs!)
      Well, gotta go install my new aerodynamic valve caps.
     
                                  Regards, Ruthrfrd@borg.com

     Feel free to flame me on the digest or by direct e-mail.

                                           

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Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 21:25:29 -0500
From: "William L. Leacock" <wleacock@pipeline.com>
Subject: Steering

To set the steering central proceed as follows.
 For ease, raise the front wheels off the floor on a couple of jacks ( or
one if you only have one)
 Wind the steering wheel to full lock, 
wind the steering wheel to full opposite lock, counting the number of turns.
 Halve the number of turns and wind the steering wheel back this amount,
thus your steering box is in the mid position.
 Check the position of the upper steering idler, this should be parallel to
the cross member, if it is not adjust the length of the rod by rotating it (
after releasing the clamp screws ) to make the arm parallel to the cross member
 The lower steering arm on the steering idler should be square to the upper
arm and pointing straight ahead, if it is not square toi the upper arm,
remove it and replace it in the correct position.
 At this stage the front wheels should be straight, if not adjust the
steering track arm length to make the wheels straight. 
 Check from full lock to full lock, the clearance between the tyre and the
spring can be compared at both sides.
 Following this procedure will correct any imbalance that has been created
by P.O's who have replaced track rod ends etc without setting them
correctly, or misalignment caused by hitting the kerb too many times.
 
Bill Leacock  ( Limey in exile )
 88 and 109 LR's and 89 RR 

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Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 19:39:49 -0700
From: Rick Grant <rgrant@cadvision.com>
Subject: Re: November LROi Magazine

At 07:45 PM 11/11/97 -0500, Alexander P. Grice, wrote

>I worked today), I don't know of anyone who has gotten LRO yet.  Anybody?

Nope.

			Rick Grant

			1959, SII   "VORIZO"  

rgrant@cadvision.com	
www.cadvision.com/rgrant
Cobra Media Communications.  Calgary, Canada
Aboriginal and International Relief Issues

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Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 23:34:36 -0400
From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: November LROi Magazine

Alexander P. Grice wrote:
> >From the LROSHOP:
> >November issues should be on the newsstands and subscribers should have
> >received their copies by now.
> I dunno.  The big local (Barnes and Noble) just got *October*.  I've talked
> with several folks from Boston to DC to Virginia.  While I realize that
> today is Veterans Day and govermnent takes a holiday (UPS just delivered and

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 10 lines)]
> today is Veterans Day and govermnent takes a holiday (UPS just delivered and
> I worked today), I don't know of anyone who has gotten LRO yet.  Anybody?
Got mine last week. Some times it hurts to be this lucky!
 John

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Date: Wed, 12 Nov 1997 01:02:41 -0600
From: Wesley Harris <wharris@midmon.com>
Subject: Re: November LROi Magazine

At 07:45 PM 11/11/97 -0500, you wrote:
>>From the LROSHOP:
>>November issues should be on the newsstands and subscribers should have
>>received their copies by now.
>I dunno.  The big local (Barnes and Noble) just got *October*.  I've talked 
>with several folks from Boston to DC to Virginia.  While I realize that 

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 11 lines)]
>today is Veterans Day and govermnent takes a holiday (UPS just delivered and 
>I worked today), I don't know of anyone who has gotten LRO yet.  Anybody?

Hmmm, nope.  Not a sign of the new LRO yet for me either (I live in PA)...
Ah, yes.  Veteran's Day.  The day when all the Veterans have to work and all
the non-veterans get to stay home!  Don't think that figures into it all
that much; I usually have my copy by now.  Pretty frustrating considering
what the subscription costs, eh?

Cheers,
Wes Harris
'64 88 SW

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From: CIrvin1258@aol.com
Date: Wed, 12 Nov 1997 01:30:46 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Shipping 'cross the pond (no gun content)

Roger,

If it weren't for the fact that Christmas is just around the corner, I'd
reccomend that you find out what it would cost to send it via Royal Mail.
They do take large packages, but at this time of year, it'll take at least
2-3 weeks to get it.

UPS will probably charge about $100.00 for shipping (roughly) - usually
$70.00 is the minimum for anything coming from the U.K.

Hope this helps.

Charles

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Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 22:34:42 -0800
From: Jeremy Bartlett <bartlett@slip.net>
Subject: Re: Lucas Oddity

Christopher H. Dow wrote:

> There was a bit of water
> in the socket, and I wonder if that was the problem.

The water was probably inhibiting the developement of thesmoke known to
power all Lucas electrics :)

cheers,

Jeremy

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From: CIrvin1258@aol.com
Date: Wed, 12 Nov 1997 01:38:21 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Gun Crazy

Gosh...

I've been on both sides of the barrel under battlefield conditions, and I've
NEVER seen a gun kill somebody on it's own! Only in movies.

Get a grip people: if there were no guns, criminals would do here, as they do
in England, which is, use knives, blunt objects, shovels, axes, etc., it
makes no difference - if somebody REALLY wants to kill someone, it doesn't
matter how they do it, or how long the waiting period is. In the end, it's
the person pulling the trigger that makes the decision, and not the gun.

Though I own several guns, my weapon of choice is still the old favorite: the
Louisville Slugger.

Charles

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From: ivosloo@cs.up.ac.za
Date: Wed, 12 Nov 1997 09:17:10 +0000
Subject: Re: Fuel-outlet-pipe - correction

Olafur,

I have found my mistake, sorry for the confusing discussion...  I
actuslly made two mistakes.

Firstly, the the distribuor pump's IN is the top one, the bottom is OUT.
And secondly, the fuel filter has two lines coming out and only one
going in.

Here is the story again (making sense this time):

The liftpump's in is connected to the out of the fuel tank.  The
liftpump has ONE out, but it has a little connector taking two pipes, so
you can think of it as having two out's.  This might seem silly, but
I'll explain why it works:  the liftpump's one out goes to the base of
the distributor pump (its OUT).  The other goes to the only IN of the
fuel filter.  One OUT of the fuel filter goes to the IN of the dist pump
and the other goes to the copper pipe connected to all the overflows of
the injectors.  From there another pipe goes back to the tank again.

Here's how it works:  The lift pump pumps the fuel directly from the
tank.  The fuel cannot go IN the dist pump's OUT, so it is forced to go
directly to the filter.  From the filter it goes to the dist pump's IN. 
And what's left over after the dist pump did its thing goes out the dist
pump's out.  Since this is connected to the out of the lift pump, which
is also connected to the in of the fuel filter, it just joins the flow
of fuel back to the filter.  If all of this gets too much for the
filter, it goes via the filter's other OUT to the injectors' overflow
which is connected to the tank again.  So everything ends up in the tank
again.

Phew!  Hope I did not confuse you totally.  I can remember it took me a
while to figure it out last time too...  I see that the Heynes manual
has the basics the same, but there are a few differences:  They put a
sedimentor in the line between the tank and the liftpump.  And they have
two fuel filters.  The difference immediately visible is that they do
not have the connector splitting the out of the liftpump - they make it
go directly to the first filter.  But in the end they have the same kind
of scenario (i don't have the details here to explain, but it did not
sound as if you had two fuel filters, so it's not applicaable anyway.)

- Iwan Vosloo
( 1975 SIII 88" Diesel )

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