[ First Message Last | Table of Contents | <- Digest -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
msg | Sender | lines | Subject |
1 | NADdMD@aol.com | 22 | Re: Wiper Motor Conversion Info |
2 | "Huub Pennings" [HPS@fs1 | 20 | Re: petrol engine redline, diesel handthrottle + more |
3 | Simon Ward-Hastelow [sim | 12 | [not specified] |
4 | "Davies, Scott" [sdavies | 27 | RE: Gun Crazy |
5 | kelliott@intranet.ca (Ke | 22 | Re: Gun Crazy |
6 | Paul Oxley [paul@adventu | 28 | Re: Gun Crazy |
7 | M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (M | 14 | Re: Gun Crazy |
8 | Russ Wilson [rwilson@usa | 27 | Re: Gun Crazy |
9 | IBEdwardp@aol.com | 28 | Re: Smiths Heaters |
10 | kelliott@intranet.ca (Ke | 23 | Re: Gun Crazy (No LR Content) |
11 | Mike Johnson [johnsonm@b | 12 | Re: Gun Crazy |
12 | QROVER80@aol.com | 50 | Sodbury Report |
13 | SPYDERS@aol.com | 23 | Re: Nov. LROI issue |
14 | bent@boehlers-dk.com (Be | 39 | Sallisbury axle diff change |
15 | john cranfield [john.cra | 15 | Re: Gun Crazy |
16 | "Christopher H. Dow" [do | 18 | Re: Wiper Motor Conversion Info |
17 | john cranfield [john.cra | 18 | Re: Nov. LROI issue |
18 | "Tom Dixon" [tomd@clear. | 16 | landrover owner/amateur radio |
19 | NADdMD@aol.com | 19 | Re: Paint Codes, Steering |
20 | Mike Johnson [johnsonm@b | 34 | Re: landrover owner/amateur radio |
21 | Bob Sjonnesen [bob@canco | 16 | Mud Tires - 1957 Series I |
22 | ASFCO@worldnet.att.net | 16 | Solihull Amateur radio Society |
23 | SPYDERS@aol.com | 28 | Front Bumpers/turn signals |
24 | "Johan van Staden" [JCVS | 23 | Rochester Carb |
25 | Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lo | 18 | Re: Rochester Carb |
26 | Eric Zipkin [ericz@cloud | 20 | Re: Looking for Brian Davies |
27 | SPYDERS@aol.com | 28 | Re: Lumenition/coolant |
28 | "Christopher H. Dow" [do | 25 | Lucas Oddity |
29 | SPYDERS@aol.com | 23 | Re: Re: landrover owner/amateur radio |
30 | ivosloo@cs.up.ac.za | 15 | Third tank in 88" |
31 | ivosloo@cs.up.ac.za | 81 | Re: Fuel-outlet-pipe |
32 | ivosloo@cs.up.ac.za | 19 | Re: Oil change interval - synthetic. |
33 | ivosloo@cs.up.ac.za | 15 | Parabolic springs |
34 | DEFENDER@ibm.net | 16 | Re: Oil change interval - synthetic. |
35 | Mike Johnson [johnsonm@b | 24 | Re: Oil change interval - synthetic. |
36 | "MALCOLM R FORBES" [MALC | 140 | Re: Is there a geologist in the house? |
37 | "barnett childress" [bar | 19 | Re: Oil change interval - synthetic. |
38 | Paul Nash [paul@frcs.alt | 25 | 110 diesel conversions |
39 | RykRover@aol.com | 9 | Re: Gun Crazy |
40 | john cranfield [john.cra | 12 | Re: Gun Crazy |
41 | rover@pinn.net (Alexande | 24 | Redlined |
42 | rover@pinn.net (Alexande | 24 | November LROi Magazine |
43 | David Scheidt [david@mat | 22 | cold starting problem |
44 | "K. John Wood" [jwrover@ | 36 | Re: Paint codes, Steering |
45 | Hank Rutherford [ruthrfr | 46 | Spark Plug Woes |
46 | "William L. Leacock" [wl | 28 | Steering |
47 | Rick Grant [rgrant@cadvi | 19 | Re: November LROi Magazine |
48 | john cranfield [john.cra | 18 | Re: November LROi Magazine |
49 | Wesley Harris [wharris@m | 25 | Re: November LROi Magazine |
50 | CIrvin1258@aol.com | 19 | Re: Shipping 'cross the pond (no gun content) |
51 | Jeremy Bartlett [bartlet | 16 | Re: Lucas Oddity |
52 | CIrvin1258@aol.com | 21 | Re: Gun Crazy |
53 | ivosloo@cs.up.ac.za | 49 | Re: Fuel-outlet-pipe - correction |
From: NADdMD@aol.com Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 07:11:20 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: Wiper Motor Conversion Info In a message dated 97-11-11 00:34:21 EST, you write: the motor care which way the current flows?" >> For some reason, the wiper circuit needs the power directly to the motor. If the switch is on the power side, the parking mechanism doesn't get power when you turn off the switch. You get the same effect if you turn off the key with wipers running on modern cars. In my case, it was a bit simpler because I have the 1 speed single wiper motor circa '67-'68, but my understanding is the same principle applies to the 2 speed motor. Nate ------------------------------[ <- Message 2 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971112 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Huub Pennings" <HPS@fs1-kfih.azr.nl> Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 13:25:01 +0100 Subject: Re: petrol engine redline, diesel handthrottle + more Hello, John A used gearbox in reasonable condition would in Holland bring aprox. 150 UKP, A rebuild unit goes for 290 UKP A new (unused) ex military is offered for 370 UKP. I know since I probably need one myself in the near future. So what is your price going to be???? Regards, Huub Pennings e-mail adress Pennings@kfih.azr.nl ------------------------------[ <- Message 3 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971112 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Subject: Gun Crazy Date: Tue, 11 Nov 97 13:36:18 +0000 From: Simon Ward-Hastelow <simon.110.v8@dial.pipex.com> Am I on the wrong list - I'm getting more gun related messages than Landrover ones. GUNS KILL - PEOPLE DIE I am now unsubscribing from the list swh ------------------------------[ <- Message 4 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971112 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Davies, Scott" <sdavies@monetpost.stdavids.ncr.com> Subject: RE: Gun Crazy Date: Tue, 11 Nov 97 13:51:00 PST Looks like someone had a sense of humour bypass operation:-) I've been using guns for sport for the past 18 years, haven't seen anyone killed. Scott Davies '85 110 2.5D HT BSA MK4 and BSA MK2 target rifles. ---------- From: Simon Ward-Hastelow Subject: Gun Crazy Date: 11 November 1997 13:36 Am I on the wrong list - I'm getting more gun related messages than Landrover ones. GUNS KILL - PEOPLE DIE I am now unsubscribing from the list swh ------------------------------[ <- Message 5 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971112 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 08:52:38 -0500 (EST) From: kelliott@intranet.ca (Keith Elliott) Subject: Re: Gun Crazy >Am I on the wrong list - I'm getting more gun related messages than >Landrover ones. >GUNS KILL - PEOPLE DIE People kill, the gun is just the tool. If there were no guns people would use something else to kill with. >I am now unsubscribing from the list >swh >GUNS KILL - PEOPLE DIE Why? Keith 1961 Series II 88" Ottawa ------------------------------[ <- Message 6 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971112 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 15:53:57 +0200 From: Paul Oxley <paul@adventures.co.za> Subject: Re: Gun Crazy Simon Ward-Hastelow wrote: > Am I on the wrong list - I'm getting more gun related messages than > Landrover ones. > GUNS KILL - PEOPLE DIE > I am now unsubscribing from the list > swh Gee Guys, I'm convinced that it's actually intolerance that causes people to kill other people, using guns, knives, knitting needles, Land Rovers, whatever. Try to be a little more tolerant Simon, OK? Regards Paul Oxley "into Africa adventures" The African Adventure-travel Webzine http://www.adventures.co.za "AfricanAdrenalin" Sign up for adventure here... http://AfricanAdrenalin.co.za & http://AfricanAdrenalin.com ------------------------------[ <- Message 7 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971112 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 14:00:56 +0000 From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth) Subject: Re: Gun Crazy Am I on the wrong list - I'm getting more gun related messages than Landrover ones. >GUNS KILL And Land Rover makes vehicles upon which to mount them.And when it comes to pass that the people for whom they were made finish with them,we get more nice toys to play with....... Mike Rooth ------------------------------[ <- Message 8 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971112 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 09:05:54 -0500 (EST) From: Russ Wilson <rwilson@usaor.net> Subject: Re: Gun Crazy >Am I on the wrong list - I'm getting more gun related messages than >Landrover ones. >GUNS KILL - PEOPLE DIE >I am now unsubscribing from the list >swh I really have to say that seeing someone with such a close minded view of the world leave our little group is no great loss. A little gun talk and he wants to cover his ears and run away crying?? This is not about guns, abortion or any other controversial topic. The List is about Rovers but hey, we all have outside interests that will on occasion come out on the list. If you can't stand having a conversation with someone that shares a different view of the world who do you talk to? Do you surround yourself with people who are exactly like you and share all of your views?? Do they all dress alike as well? Hmmm looking at this person's E-mail address(simon.110.v8@dial.pipex.com) Perhaps he will find nice, safe (boreing) conversation on the coil list. Russ Wilson Leslie Bittner 1967 88 "The Little Green Rover" ------------------------------[ <- Message 9 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971112 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: IBEdwardp@aol.com Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 09:10:26 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: Smiths Heaters As many may have suspected, the ubiquitous Smiths Heater predates the Land-Rover and has been used in other vehicles. Originally marketed as the Smiths Thermal Unit, the exported models became so popular in tropical areas that many simply referred to them as "British" thermal units. Eventually the Smiths Heater became the standard by which all other heating devices were judged. Hence, one Smith's Heater equaled one British thermal unit. Of course, over the years there have been improvements in engineering and materials enabling Smiths Heaters of recent manufacture to almost double the original capacity, in some instances producing almost two BTUs under optimum conditions. Thought someone might be interested. BTW my Land-Rover is gr**n, although I seldom admit this in public. I am in the process of painting the whole thing faux limestone (ie. International Harvester white). I realize this may be a sacrilege, but I wanted to avoid controversy. For those of you who don't carry firearms, how do you shoot the road signs your parts of the country (world)? Ed Bailey (Somewhere in East Tennessee) 66IIa SWB (Nameless orphan) ------------------------------[ <- Message 10 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971112 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 09:31:26 -0500 (EST) From: kelliott@intranet.ca (Keith Elliott) Subject: Re: Gun Crazy (No LR Content) In this mornings Ottawa Citizen: "Keith Flaro was enjoying the tranquility of an afternoon canoe ride when a bullet fired by a CARELESS HUNTER struck him in the back and killed him instantly." This is disturbing to me because I knew Keith when I was growing up in the same town. This is just another example of how the gun is not responsible for killing but rather an inrresponsible person carrying a gun is. The article goes on to say that alcohol use is suspected. Driving home every night from work (I live in a very rural area) I see hunters out drinking beer and carrying guns. It is a scary site. I fully support the peoples right to own a gun but I also think that something like a "RIDE" program should be in place during hunting season to try and curb alcohol consumption while out on the hunt. I really don't understand these people that say that guns kill and that all firearms should be banned, do they think that the ban on fully auto weapons keep the criminals from getting them? It is easier to get a auto AK47 than it is to get an old Land Rover around my area. ------------------------------[ <- Message 11 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971112 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 09:40:54 -0500 From: Mike Johnson <johnsonm@borg.com> Subject: Re: Gun Crazy At 01:36 PM 11/11/97 +0000, you wrote: >GUNS KILL - PEOPLE DIE To be more accurate, guns don't kill people, bullets do. hehehe Mike Johnson ------------------------------[ <- Message 12 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971112 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: QROVER80@aol.com Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 09:42:26 -0500 (EST) Subject: Sodbury Report Sodbury. In a word........ WOW. It is an event like this that puts the Landrover scene in England into perspective for us, we mere colonials. By invitation Spenny and I got there the night before and frankly we were a bit disappointed for there were only a couple of vendors in evidence. However we were assured by the "Old Sod " Jim Tewsbury, himself that they were expecting about 150 vendors in the morning. After an entertaining evening in the local pub talking about Landrovers with the lads from Simmonites we retired to the a local B and B and after leaving a wake up call for 7 am, evidently a bit early by the look on the landlady's face, we retired for the night. The next morning after a fine breakfast we drove back to the site. Fully a half mile from the gate the line of Rovers started. These were the VENDORS mind you not the public. We reported to "control," were given vests with "Sodbury sortout" on them and when we asked how we might make ourselves useful were told to "go chat with the blokes waiting in the queue" Note .....insert sounds of arm twisting throughout. :-) after half an hour of this onerous task I left Spenny taking a few photos and wandered back to the main field. There I found things working well with vendors being sorted out by Jim's daughter Sue and sent to a general area in one of the two fields. There were so many rovers and rover parts that Spenny and I forgot to take more than a few pictures. In Spenny's case this was particularly astonishing as during one point of our trip I watched him take between 10 and 20 pictures of the same sheep ! Like all the swap meets I have ever been to there were fantastic bargains to be had, some seen walking the other way in someone else's hand. Some rare in the US items were quite common. I saw a lot of tailgates, Pick up cabs and lift gates. Some items were not . I only saw one 109 hoop set. Alas some rare items were entirely absent , I never did find a full hard top for the 80" :-( The quantity and variety of available parts was daunting. Spenny and I both forgot about simple consumable parts like head sets and water pumps till we were in the car on our way home. Next time :-) There were understandably a lot of 90 and 110 parts and a fair number of Disco and Range Rover stuff but even so I would estimate that it was at least 1/2 series stuff. We bought LOTS of stuff but we should have gotten more. By the time we had assembled the stuff in one spot the pile of booty half buried the car, so I got some of our new found friends to truck the works up to the north for me. The Sodbury sortout is the largest dedicated Landrover swap meet in the world and I would say that for the true Roverist it is probably a pilgrimage worth the taking EVEN if you have to come from as far as North America. The only question is how do we get all the booty home? Container anyone? The next sortout is in the end of March 1998. My advice would be start planning NOW. Rgds Quintin Aspin ------------------------------[ <- Message 13 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971112 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: SPYDERS@aol.com Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 09:59:32 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: Nov. LROI issue In a message dated 11/11/97 9:22:17 AM, you wrote: >>Jim we at the post office would not delay delivery of a magazine just to >>read it. It must have gotten misrouted. Then Sandy wrote: >I doubt it. I don't know *anyone* who has gotten the November LRO. It's at >least three weeks late.... I *know* why I haven't gotten mine... I find it much cheaper to read my neighbor's, so I let the subscription run out. Borders also carries it and they have these comfy chairs and good coffee too... ;-) pat 93 110 ------------------------------[ <- Message 14 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971112 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: bent@boehlers-dk.com (Bent Böhlers) Subject: Sallisbury axle diff change Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 15:04:03 GMT "Dani K.A. Mansjoer" <dani-net@indo.net.id> wrote: My SIII 109 equiped with V8-3.5l engine and rear Sallisbury axle is fitted with 4.71 gear diff. I would change it to 3.54 gear diff. for better fuel economy. Is it an easy job to do (just change the crown and pinion gears) or I will need additional parts or special tools? Can anyone advise me? thanks. Yes, You will need a special tool to press the diff house a little, before You can remove the diff block. You will also need to change the gear on the front axle at the same time. Your car will be a little higher in ALL gears, also the low-range, giving less power in offroad conditions. If You have the 4 speed permanent fourwheel drive gearbox, there is another posibility, change the gearwheels in the high/low box, but only for the high range. Then You will get a higher highrange with better fueleconomy on good roads, and keep the very low range unchanged for good power when leaving the road. You can use the gearwheels from the similar Range-Rover box. Happy Rovering -- Bent Boehlers bent@boxehlers-dk.com Remove the "x" to mail me http://www.boehlers-dk.com ------------------------------[ <- Message 15 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971112 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 12:09:20 -0400 From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca> Subject: Re: Gun Crazy Simon Ward-Hastelow wrote: > Am I on the wrong list - I'm getting more gun related messages than > Landrover ones. > GUNS KILL - PEOPLE DIE > I am now unsubscribing from the list [ truncated by list-digester (was 10 lines)] > I am now unsubscribing from the list > swh No more Hastle it is what we are all looking for!!! ------------------------------[ <- Message 16 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971112 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 08:27:24 -0800 From: "Christopher H. Dow" <dow@thelen.org> Subject: Re: Wiper Motor Conversion Info NADdMD@aol.com wrote: > << So, the part of my brain that understands electricity wonders "Why does > the motor care which way the current flows?" >> > For some reason, the wiper circuit needs the power directly to the motor. If > the switch is on the power side, the parking mechanism doesn't get power when > you turn off the switch. OK. But does the diagram I described make sense to you? Thanks a bunch for the help, C ------------------------------[ <- Message 17 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971112 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 12:02:57 -0400 From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca> Subject: Re: Nov. LROI issue Alexander P. Grice wrote: > Barrie wrote: > >Jim we at the post office would not delay delivery of a magazine just to > >read it. It must have gotten misrouted. > I doubt it. I don't know *anyone* who has gotten the November LRO. It's at > least three weeks late.... [ truncated by list-digester (was 18 lines)] > | 757-423-4898 (Evenings) FAX: 757-622-7056 | > *---1972 Series III 88"-----1996 Discovery SE-7(m)---* I got my Nov issue in Nova Scotia last week wednesday I think but I live in God's Country! john and Muddy ------------------------------[ <- Message 18 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971112 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Tom Dixon" <tomd@clear.net.nz> Subject: landrover owner/amateur radio Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 20:51:26 +1300 A very big congratulation is in order for Doug for passing his tech amateur radio licence. He has now in my humble opinion combined two of the best hobbies going as they both complement each other. I am sure he will have hours of enjoyment. Once he works on the code there will be no stopping him and contrary to belief it is NOT an expensive hobby Cheers.... Tom Dixon ZL2UPG 79 series 3 lwb (in many pieces) tomd@clear.net.nz ------------------------------[ <- Message 19 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971112 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: NADdMD@aol.com Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 11:51:07 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: Paint Codes, Steering In a message dated 97-11-11 10:53:17 EST, you write: << If the wheels are straight ahead and the bottom lever is also, then the top lever should be perfectly perpendicular. If not, then adjust the top lever so that it is perpendicular I think that it's the top lever that's out. Thanks... >> Check the manual, I believe (on a IIa) the drop arm isn't exactly 90 degrees but I don't remember which way it tips. I believe the workshop manual says the angle and shows a picture of the proper position. Nate ------------------------------[ <- Message 20 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971112 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 13:00:18 -0500 From: Mike Johnson <johnsonm@borg.com> Subject: Re: landrover owner/amateur radio >A very big congratulation is in order for Doug for passing his tech amateur >radio licence. He has now in my humble opinion combined two of the best >hobbies going as they both complement each other. I am sure he will have >hours of enjoyment. Once he works on the code there will be no stopping him >and contrary to belief it is NOT an expensive hobby. I'll second the congrats. As for the expense, I have a couple of hobbies and the outlay looks something like this: Photography w/o darkroom $1400 Ham Radio $1000 Computer +equipment $5000 Land-Rover $5500 Nothing outragous 'cept for the computer, but it combines several disciplines that I like to keep keen on. Now I could travel to Botswana, take pictures and packet radio my pics and story out to someone who doesn't care. Good thing thats not my job. Cheers <center>Michael Johnson johnsonm@borg.com http://www.borg.com/~johnsonm</center> ------------------------------[ <- Message 21 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971112 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Bob Sjonnesen <bob@cancom.net> Subject: Mud Tires - 1957 Series I Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 13:05:48 -0500 I've been having difficulty getting through some mud holes with my = current tires. They are 6.50 x 16. A friend has some surplus Marshall = Power Guards LT 235-85-R16 that I can get at a very favourable price. Will I be able to fit these on the existing rims? Cheers Bob Sjonnesen (bob@cancom.net) Elliot Lake, Ontario, Canada ------------------------------[ <- Message 22 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971112 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: ASFCO@worldnet.att.net Subject: Solihull Amateur radio Society Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 18:29:32 +0000 For the Hams here on the lists I came across a rather unique QSL card.. it is from the Solihull Amateur Radio Society and dated 3/22/87 It is yellow with the LR oval Logo front and back and has pictures of a RR and a 110 on the front the Callsign GB4NEC is not listed in the database any longer. Any other hams have one of these cards? Rgds Steve Bradke 96 Discovery WA2GMC 72 S lll 88 (For Sale) 68 S lla 88 ------------------------------[ <- Message 23 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971112 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: SPYDERS@aol.com Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 13:43:08 -0500 (EST) Subject: Front Bumpers/turn signals I've tweaked the front bumper on my truck (by creating a non-existent parking spot). I also re-straightened it when leaving the parking spot. There are some slight waves in the top part out near the right end, which I could care less about, but what bugs me is the malleability of the whole bumper. To make things worse, the truck has the turn signal lights in the bumper itself, which means big oval holes in the front of it, which is where it tweaked. After thinking about it for a while, I'm probably going to get an aftermarket bumper. The SG unit looks appealing. If I get it, I will re-locate the turn signals to use one pair of the four yellow lights on the front. My question is: Which pair, the upper or the lower? I've seen rovers with the turn signals on top, on the bottom and next to the running lights, leading me to wonder if it is a year-to-year thing or a country-to-country code change. I'm also going to try to get the bumper without the bars across the top. (rovers don't kill people, the bull bars do. hee hee ;-) ) Just kidding, I have a set of headlight grilles that preclude the use of bull bars/brush guards/hip breakers. pat 93 110 ------------------------------[ <- Message 24 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971112 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Johan van Staden" <JCVS@gold.up.ac.za> Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 18:15:48 GMT+2 Subject: Rochester Carb I followed the Rochester Carb discussion with interest. On the SII I know there is Solex and Zenith and Weber, but Rochester seems unknown around here. Gossip says that Weber makes a dramatic difference to an old but healthy 2.25 SII. From this thread I conclude that Rochester makes a dramatic difference squared. Please tell me more. Who makes it? What old/new other cars use the Rochester? Does it really convert the SII into a dragster using no fuel? What about the links and the springs and the air cleaner hose? Does it sit on the manifold without trouble? Where can I get one? Best regards Johan van Staden Gold Fields Computer Centre for Education Faculty of Science, University of Pretoria Pretoria 0002 South Africa Tel: x-12-420 2470 Fax: x-12-420-3874 ------------------------------[ <- Message 25 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971112 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 14:15:01 -0500 Subject: Re: Rochester Carb Good reason youy're not familiar with the old Rochester - it was used on old Chevrolets in the United States, and isn't really an available aftermarket carburettor. Holden may have the Rochester or an equivalent to it (as rumor has it that they were closely allied with GM). Might be worth a look around for a carburettor fitting a 250 cubic-inch 6-cylinder Holden engine from the 1950s to the 1960s. Check a carburettor specialist shop - they may be able to help. Al Richer ------------------------------[ <- Message 26 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971112 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 14:30:59 -0500 From: Eric Zipkin <ericz@cloud9.net> Subject: Re: Looking for Brian Davies Try: (860) 354-7552 At 07:40 PM 11/10/97 -0500, you wrote: >I've been trying to call Brian Davies for several days with no success. He >has a grey-market RR I'm *very* interested in. Anyone in the northeast >atlantic seaboard area, who knows him, please send me a note. >He lives in Connecticut, which I understand is a suburb of NYC. >TIA!! >Cheers!! [ truncated by list-digester (was 22 lines)] >Land Rovers for Recreation! >Land Rovers forever!! D.V. Eric Zipkin Bedford, NY USA ------------------------------[ <- Message 27 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971112 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: SPYDERS@aol.com Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 14:32:49 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: Lumenition/coolant In a message dated 11/11/97 1:47:15 PM, Ozzie wrote: >Anyway Filipinos also >do not use coolant ( resulting in corrosion) and just love to remove thermostats. >Interesting FIY. I actually bought coolant at Pep Boys in LA , they currently >don't >stock it here in Cebu , Phil. Don't use coolant and remove thermostats; why is that? I remember so many vehicles in the philippines having overheating problems, the same vehicles that ran just fine in the middle east where the daytime temps were hotter. IMHO, there should be warning labels on *all* engines in the philippines "Engine runs hotter without thermostat and/or with timing set wrong". I know you can find coolant closer than LA; there is Prestone (anti-freeze) in most big gas stations in manila. Perhaps it is cebuano pride that keeps coolant off the island ;-). pat 93 110 ------------------------------[ <- Message 28 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971112 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 11:34:32 -0800 From: "Christopher H. Dow" <dow@thelen.org> Subject: Lucas Oddity Yesterday as I was leaving for work, I noticed that my right-hand turning indicator wasn't functioning properly. The front bulb would flash (somewhat fast), but the rear bulb wasn't operating and niether was the indicator on the switch. This morning, I got out my DMM and set out to find the problem. I checked the voltage everywhere and it was the same (around 5V--odd, but I have a lot of voltage drop problems here & there). Everywhere means at the rear socket, at the junction for the rear harness, and at the junction at the front. I then decided to check the volage at the front socket. When I removed the bulb, the rear lamp started to blink. I then replaced the bulb, and both lamps worked. There was a bit of water in the socket, and I wonder if that was the problem. Anyway, all is well now, but I wish I better understood the nature of the problem and why it is fixed now. C '65 IIA 88" SW '96 Disco SD ------------------------------[ <- Message 29 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971112 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: SPYDERS@aol.com Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 14:35:13 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: Re: landrover owner/amateur radio In a message dated 11/11/97 2:20:26 PM, you wrote: >As for the expense, I have a couple of hobbies and the outlay looks something >like this: >Photography w/o darkroom $1400 >Ham Radio $1000 >Computer +equipment $5000 [ truncated by list-digester (was 10 lines)] >Computer +equipment $5000 >Land-Rover $5500 I hope that isn't monthly, or maybe those are Italian Dollars you're using... pat 93 110 ------------------------------[ <- Message 30 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971112 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: ivosloo@cs.up.ac.za Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 21:33:17 +0000 Subject: Third tank in 88" Hi all, did someone on the list maybe sometime try to fit a third tank into a SIII? I have two: one below each seat, but really need a third one... I am planning to build one myself, but maybe, just maybe one of you tried the same thing before... - Iwan Vosloo ( 1975 SIII 88" Diesel ) ------------------------------[ <- Message 31 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971112 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: ivosloo@cs.up.ac.za Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 21:30:47 +0000 Subject: Re: Fuel-outlet-pipe Olafur Agust Axelsson wrote: > I posted a while ago a question about a fuel-pump on my S3 Diesel - I > found a part-shop that sells a fitting that has one end that fits the pump > and another that I can fit the fuel-hose on - But Im still wondering why > there are TWO hoses to be fitted - and how they are to be fitted There is > one hose reaching from the fuel filter bowl and the other from the base of > the fuel-distributor. Olafur, I went and had a look at mine and here are the results. It does not make sense to me at all, but I did check it with another SIII that seemed to be untampered with and the two looked the same. (It would be nice it someone else on the list could double-check this though...) I'm not good at ascii-art, so I hope you can draw a picture from this explanation: In my car there are 5 components linked together with fuel lines. The tank has one pipe into it and one out; the liftpump has one coming in and two going out; the distributer pump has one going in (at the bottom) and one coming out again at the top (of course, this excludes the copper lines to the injectors); the injectors can be viewed as one component, they are all connected at the top with a copper pipe to which two normal fuel lines are connected (both sortof going out); and lastly, the fuel filter (with three lines connected to it). The out-line from the tank goes directly to my liftpump's 'in'. Of the two lines coming out from the liftpump, one goes to the bottom (in) of the distributor pump and the other one goes to the fuel filter. The top (out) of the distributer pump also goes to the fuel filter. Of the two pipes on the injector's overflow pipe one goes directly back into the tank and the other also goes into the fuel filter (it does not matter which one of the two goes where). I don't really understand the fuel filter's and I could not see properly which pipes were going in and which ones are coming out (the thing sits under the floor :-( ), but, I suspect the pipe at the top goes in, and that's the one connected to the injectors. The other 'in' is probably the one coming out of the distributor pump. And the one connected to the liftpump is actually 'out'. What bothers me about this setup is that I can't figure out how the fuel gets through the filter BEFORE it gets to the distributor pump. The fact that the liftpump's one 'out' is connected to the fuel filter's 'out' does not worry me. If you draw the picture you'll see that the only effect it will have is to force the fuel from from the fuel filter AND the fuel from the liftpump to go via the second liftpump connection to the distributor pump's in. All the the overflow from the dist pump goes into the fuel filter, from where it will be recycled through the route just described to the dist pump's in again. The one overflow from the injectors also goes into the fuel filter, so it also gets filtered and passed via the route above to the dist pump's 'in'. The second overflow from the injectors goes to back to the tank. What bothers me about this is that all the fuel from all the overflows get filtered and routed back to the dist pump. BUT, the very first time fuel actually exits the lift pump, it goes unfiltered though the dist pump. Eeuch. But I've really checked this on another car and it was linked up exactly the same. I wish I could understand it... I have changed my setup a little. I put a sedimentor in the exact place of the fuel filter in the description above and I have added a fuel filter in the line going from the lift pump to the dist pump. So that I can at least be sure the stuff gets filtered before it hits the dist pump. I hope this helps a little and would love somebody to confirm/refute my suspicions about the setup in my car... - Iwan Vosloo ( 1975 SIII 88" Diesel ) ------------------------------[ <- Message 32 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971112 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: ivosloo@cs.up.ac.za Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 22:01:40 +0000 Subject: Re: Oil change interval - synthetic. Dave, > I am considering using synthetic oil. At what interval do you synthetic > users change your oil? How about you long term users, like with over > 200,000 > miles on your rigs, how are they holding up? As I understand the regular oil changes are to get rid of the impurities that gets into the oil, not because the oil gets 'worn out'. And...synthetic oil would get dirty as quickly as normal oil. - Iwan Vosloo ( 1975 SIII 88" Diesel ) ------------------------------[ <- Message 33 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971112 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: ivosloo@cs.up.ac.za Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 22:12:47 +0000 Subject: Parabolic springs I don't want to start the whole parabolic spring thread up again, but it would be soo nice if one of you good people can tell ignorant little me what a parabolic spring is? I figured from the conversations that they have a lot better axcle articulation. Can they carry as much weight? Can they just be installed instead of the normal springs, or are any midifications needed. What's the bad side to this? - Iwan Vosloo ( 1975 SIII 88" Diesel ) ------------------------------[ <- Message 34 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971112 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: DEFENDER@ibm.net Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 15:23:23 -0500 Subject: Re: Oil change interval - synthetic. Not completely true. conventional motor oil breaks down much faster than synthetic. Granted, even conventional oil will probably not break down at 3k miles. The speed at which the oil gets 'dirty' would be the same but the amount of time it takes them to break down is entirely different. This is especially a concern on a 4x4 due to the fact that they are often pushed harder than on road vehicles. William Pittman 1997 D90 WAGON ------------------------------[ <- Message 35 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971112 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 15:50:38 -0500 From: Mike Johnson <johnsonm@borg.com> Subject: Re: Oil change interval - synthetic. >Not completely true. conventional motor oil breaks down much faster >than synthetic. Granted, even conventional oil will probably not break >down at 3k miles. The speed at which the oil gets 'dirty' would be the >same but the amount of time it takes them to break down is entirely >different. This is especially a concern on a 4x4 due to the fact that >they are often pushed harder than on road vehicles. >William Pittman Ask your self what makes oil dirty. My understanding is that when the metal parts rub against each other the "dirt" or metallic residue is what makes oil "dirty". Thus an oil which better lubricates the parts and prevent this friction will last longer 'cause it's not getting as "dirty". Also not taking into account the oil filtration process... If a synthetic oil supports the bernoulli effect better than crude, it would be better. or something like that Mike ------------------------------[ <- Message 36 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971112 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "MALCOLM R FORBES" <MALCOLMF@prodigy.net> Subject: Re: Is there a geologist in the house? Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 15:42:29 -0500 Adrian; I’m neither a geologist nor a mining engineer, but I have worked for over forty years as a chemist, so let me give you that spin on it. Metals are only rarely found in nature in the metallic form. With the exception of the noble metals (platinum, gold and rarely silver and copper) metals are all quite reactive and react with nonmetals such as carbon dioxide (yielding carbonates), oxygen (yielding oxides), sulfur (yielding sulfides), chlorine (yielding chlorides), silicon & oxygen (yielding silicates); just to give you the shortest list possible. Metals may react with whatever nonmetal is handy, but in time wind up as compounds with a nonmetal which forms the most stable product. For example copper chloride is reasonably stable but in time enough will dissolve in water where sulfur replaces the chloride to give copper sulfide - insoluble enough to last for geological time spans. Many such reactions occur deep within the earth at extremely high temperatures and pressures. Metal compounds which are stable enough to hang around for a long time, and are found in high enough concentration to make it worth while extracting are called ores. Why there are the occasional local concentrations of ores high enough to be worth mining and extracting is far beyond this short course in Mining 101. Metal compounds are normally found in a rock matrix and it is necessary to blast this matrix apart to just remove it from the ground. Usually it is then necessary to use a rock crusher, or the like, to make little rocks from big rocks in order to better get at the ore. Next step is a beneficiation or up-grading of the active content of the ore. Numerous techniques are used for this, eg, flotation (a foaming agent is added which will selectively cause air bubbles to stick to either the ore or the matrix material and one or the other can then be skimmed off), washing (swirl with water to wash away the lighter material as in panning for gold), drying, milling, magnetic separation, sintering, gravity concentration, or many, many other processes. The metal then has to be won from the ore. As the ore is in fact a chemical compound, chemical means are usually used. Probably the most ancient is roasting the ore. Sulfides and oxides are often removed in this way. If you heat mercuric oxide (a red powder) in a test tube over a Bunsen burner you can watch the silvery liquid mercury condense further down the tube. This was a common feature of elementary chemistry classes until they realized that people were breathing in a lot of mercury vapor! Most iron ore is an oxide, and as the proud owner of an older car, you are likely more aware than most that iron oxide, rust, is not water soluble, and indeed, most intractable. It is necessary to smelt iron at high temperature in a furnace in the presence of a fluxing agent -limestone- and a pure form of carbon (normally coke today, but the demand for charcoal in the 1600's stripped much of England’s oak forests). The hot coke partially burns with oxygen to form carbon monoxide, a “reducing” agent capable of stripping the oxygen from the iron oxide, resulting in carbon dioxide and iron. With high purity iron oxide this is all that would be necessary. However if silica is a contaminant in the iron ore, limestone (calcium carbonate) is added. At furnace temperature the limestone first burns to calcium oxide (in a different life it would be lime, plaster, mortar, etc) and then reacts with the silica to form a molten, glassy calcium silicate slag (which can be then used to make mineral wool). Conversely, if the primary contaminant is limestone, sand or other silicaceous material can be used to remove it. For excitement, you can make pure iron from a high quality iron oxide by mixing it thoroughly with about an equal amount of finely divided aluminum power. It is difficult to ignite although a typical childs sparkler will serve. Once the reaction starts all hell breaks loose and molten iron flows out of the bottom. This mix is known as thermite, and is used for in place welding jobs (eg broken railroad rails). Also it is found in some military grenades (the classic way to destroy cannon is to stick a thermite grenade into the breech, slam it shut and weld the whole thing shut from the inside). Essentially you start with iron oxide and aluminum and wind up with iron and aluminum oxide and a great deal of heat and light. Galena or lead sulfide is an important lead ore. It is first concentrated by flotation, then roasted to convert it to lead oxide. This lead oxide is heated with coke and flux, and the molten lead is collected. Other metals are separated by chemical processes. There are mines where sulfuric acid is pumped into one side of underground deposits of copper sulfide, carbonate or oxide, and recovered on the opposite side as copper sulfate solutions. A direct electrical current is passed through this solution and the copper collects on the cathode as a high purity metal. One of the impurities removed in this process is a sludge of gold which settles to the bottom of the tank as it is too inert to be involved in this electrolytic process. Finished electrolytic copper is a high purity material. Cast iron still has large amounts of carbon dissolved in it, in the form of iron carbide, as well as significant amounts of phosphorus, sulfur and other contaminants. These contaminants make cast iron very brittle. One of the methods to make steel from cast iron is to remove these contaminants using the familiar and spectacular Bessemer converter. Molten iron is poured into a huge “bucket” with air holes in the bottom. Compressed air is blown in and combines with the undesirable materials and steel is the result. High carbon steel has far less carbon in it than cast iron. In general the process is to: a) Remove the ore from the ground and take mechanical steps to improve it; b) Increase the assay of the ore, or alter the ore, by some process; c) Convert to a metallic form by smelting, electrolysis, roasting or whatever; d) Purify the metal. You might find the following site useful: Dictionary of Mining, Mineral, and Related Terms <http://imcg.wr.usgs.gov/dmmrt/> Sorry, I have exceeded my allowable paragraphs, but I hope you find this useful anyway.. ~~\---| / \ |\ / \ ||\ / \|| \ =====__ /_______||__\ |[__]|_\_==_ \_Swampscott_/ | 65 | SIIa | ====(@)======== (@)-----(@)... . -- .--. . .-. ..-. ..*\:{> Calm Seas & Prosperous Voyage. Malcolm Forbes Merrimack New Hampshire ---------- > From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk> > To: lro@playground.sun.com > Subject: Is there a geologist in the house? > Date: Monday, November 10, 1997 1:29 PM > Calling all geologists and mining engineers! [ truncated by list-digester (was 43 lines)] > Visit our homepages! www.channel6.dk > --------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------[ <- Message 37 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971112 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 11 Nov 97 16:00:29 -0500 From: "barnett childress" <barnett=childress%eng%emchop1@fishbowl02.lss.emc.com> Subject: Re: Oil change interval - synthetic. When I was using regular oil it was pretty black after 3K miles. I'm now running Amsoil synthetic in everything. The Amsoil synthetic on the other hand is still dark golden at 7K when I change it. I've also noticed in cold weather the oil light goes out much faster at start up, and diffs, etc. turn easier. The drivetrain even got quieter. I've heard that another benefit to synthetic oils is less heat build up. Cheers, Barnett ________ Reply Separator ______ > From: "Mike Johnson" <johnsonm@borg.com>, on 11/11/97 3:50 PM: ------------- [ truncated by list-digester (was 25 lines)] > Mike > h ------------------------------[ <- Message 38 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971112 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 12 Nov 1997 09:30:23 +1100 From: Paul Nash <paul@frcs.alt.za> Subject: 110 diesel conversions Apologies to those on the za-lro list, who've seen the start of this already. I was planning to buy a 110 Tdi, but am now getting _very_ tempted by the idea of an old 110 V8 with a diesel conversion. I need a station wagon, and South African Tdi wagons all seem to be pretty new, while there are a lot of old (read cheap) V8s around. These big GM engines look tempting (the 6 litre V8 numbers), and I've been most impressed by the performance of my old Holden-engined sIII. However, I assume that there are all sorts of pitfalls. Has anyone out there been down this path, or knows someone who has? If so, what are the pros and cons? What gearbox should I look for, or should I swap the gearbox with the engine (recon R380 or some generic GM box)? Any information is most welcome, as I don't want to make an expensive mistake. However, if I can save a bunch of money and have a better 110, it may just be the way to go. paul ------------------------------[ <- Message 39 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971112 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: RykRover@aol.com Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 18:58:09 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: Gun Crazy ENOUGH OF THE FREAKIN GUN TALK , WHO GIVES A DAMN! TIME TO MOVE ONTO SOMETHING ELSE, RICK ------------------------------[ <- Message 40 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971112 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 20:07:09 -0400 From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca> Subject: Re: Gun Crazy RykRover@aol.com wrote: > ENOUGH OF THE FREAKIN GUN TALK , WHO GIVES A DAMN! > TIME TO MOVE ONTO SOMETHING ELSE, RICK OR I"LL BLOW YER F**KING HEAD OFF He he john ------------------------------[ <- Message 41 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971112 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 19:45:06 -0500 (EST) From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice) Subject: Redlined The Bickertons wrote: >What does the 2.25 petrol redline at?...Around 7000rpm has been suggested >before; That would likely be the rotational speed of the pistons, crank, con-rods and whatever after they have exited the bonnet - explosively. I think Jim Allen said he grenaded one at 5,200 or 5,500 RPM. I know mine starts sounding scarry above 4,500. There really isn't any rational reason to go higher on a long-stroke, high torque motor like the 2.25. *---"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----* | A. P. (Sandy) Grice | | Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd. | | "The oldest Rover-marque club in the Americas" | | 1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730 | | E-mail: rover@pinn.net Phone: 757-622-7054 (Day) | | 757-423-4898 (Evenings) FAX: 757-622-7056 | | | *---1972 Series III 88"-----1996 Discovery SE-7(m)---* ------------------------------[ <- Message 42 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971112 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 19:45:02 -0500 (EST) From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice) Subject: November LROi Magazine >From the LROSHOP: >November issues should be on the newsstands and subscribers should have >received their copies by now. I dunno. The big local (Barnes and Noble) just got *October*. I've talked with several folks from Boston to DC to Virginia. While I realize that today is Veterans Day and govermnent takes a holiday (UPS just delivered and I worked today), I don't know of anyone who has gotten LRO yet. Anybody? *---"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----* | A. P. (Sandy) Grice | | Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd. | | "The oldest Rover-marque club in the Americas" | | 1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730 | | E-mail: rover@pinn.net Phone: 757-622-7054 (Day) | | 757-423-4898 (Evenings) FAX: 757-622-7056 | | | *---1972 Series III 88"-----1996 Discovery SE-7(m)---* ------------------------------[ <- Message 43 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971112 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 20:33:29 -0500 (EST) From: David Scheidt <david@math.earlham.edu> Subject: cold starting problem My IIA has developed a reluctance to start first thing in the morning. Actually, it starts first time -- like on the first spark-- runs for a second or three, and then dies. It then takes 20 or thirty seconds of cranking to get it to start. I have good spark at all the plugs, and the starter spins fast enough, so I guess it is a fuel/air problem. The thing that I find really perverse is that if I use the hand crank, it fires on the first turn, and keeps going. This doesn't make any sense to me. Anyone have ideas? David -------- David_Scheidt@math.earlham.edu yip yip yip yap yap yak yap yip *BANG* -- no terrier ------------------------------[ <- Message 44 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971112 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "K. John Wood" <jwrover@colo-net.com> Subject: Re: Paint codes, Steering Date: Sun, 9 Nov 1997 21:22:12 -0700 Paul, To answer your first question... Sounds like you have some wrong angles. I'm not 100% sure.Check your manuel, while I was replacing tie-rods this sujmer it came in handy to get the right angle and positioning...It can make a huge difference. Second...On the paint. I've got a guy here in CO that is able to mix the Dupont paint to spec from old code books and new ones for cross refference. You might just need to find someone who will take the time. As for "new" materials. The paint I've discussed with this friend is to be the same quality as that he applied to my 86 J#@$....ShHHH! But the paint is enamel and takes a clear cote that gives it an "as new" look. Good LUCK, Yours' K. John Wood Event Co- Solihull Society ---------- > From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com> > To: lro@playground.sun.com > Subject: Paint codes, Steering > Date: Monday, November 10, 1997 12:49 PM > Hi all, [ truncated by list-digester (was 36 lines)] > 1961 Series II 88 > Victoria, BC Canada ------------------------------[ <- Message 45 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971112 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 21:13:36 -0500 (EST) From: Hank Rutherford <ruthrfrd@borg.com> Subject: Spark Plug Woes Dear all, Have been following the recent thread on spark plugs and thought it was a subject worth commenting on. I've worked on cars on both sides of the pond, and have come to the personal conclusion that I will NEVER put Ch*mp**n spark plugs in anything I own besides lawn mowers and snow blowers. On more than several occasions, vehicles fitted with them have developed unusual running characteristics. After chasing the problem for hours/days, (it couldn't be the plugs, they're NEW), one plug would develop a "soft fail". This is to say, it would fire, but not as strongly as it should. A check of the tip showed nothing out of the ordinary, it just didn't develop a strong blue spark. The occasions most strongly burnt into my memory were a tune on a Mini 1000, and carb sync on a Nissan 260Z where the customer (female, engineering type, smarter than me) had replaced the cap, rotor, wires and plugs with Ch*mp**ns. After spending far too many hours on carb work to solve the "running on 5 1/2 cylinders" problem, (which was solved by installing a set of B*sch plugs), I had to explain to her that the new plugs were BAD. Needless to say, she took her new plugs home, muttering about incompetent furrin' car mechanics. And I didn't get paid for needless hours spent on a non-existent carb problem. No-one was happy. In both shops I have worked in and several that I frequent, none of them will use Ch*mp**n plugs. Returns are too difficult to explain in this tough business. Why invite problems? To note, once Ch*mp**n plugs have proven themselves for several weeks, they appear to work as well as any others for very long periods of time. Does anyone have an explanation? It probably has something to do with the alignment of the moons around Uranus. Another thought, the reason that 8 cylinder vehicles don't seem to suffer is that a soft fire of on plug in a V8 means 7 1/2 cylinders. Is it noticeable on a low revving 302, 327, 350, etc? Misfiring on one cylinder of a V8 is harder to detect than on a four or six. And you don't want to know what I think of Spl*tfires! (Gee, I have a little too much disposable income this week, and I've already purchased curb feelers, lightening straps and chrome plated mud flaps, let's see how much I can spend on spark plugs!) Well, gotta go install my new aerodynamic valve caps. Regards, Ruthrfrd@borg.com Feel free to flame me on the digest or by direct e-mail. ------------------------------[ <- Message 46 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971112 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 21:25:29 -0500 From: "William L. Leacock" <wleacock@pipeline.com> Subject: Steering To set the steering central proceed as follows. For ease, raise the front wheels off the floor on a couple of jacks ( or one if you only have one) Wind the steering wheel to full lock, wind the steering wheel to full opposite lock, counting the number of turns. Halve the number of turns and wind the steering wheel back this amount, thus your steering box is in the mid position. Check the position of the upper steering idler, this should be parallel to the cross member, if it is not adjust the length of the rod by rotating it ( after releasing the clamp screws ) to make the arm parallel to the cross member The lower steering arm on the steering idler should be square to the upper arm and pointing straight ahead, if it is not square toi the upper arm, remove it and replace it in the correct position. At this stage the front wheels should be straight, if not adjust the steering track arm length to make the wheels straight. Check from full lock to full lock, the clearance between the tyre and the spring can be compared at both sides. Following this procedure will correct any imbalance that has been created by P.O's who have replaced track rod ends etc without setting them correctly, or misalignment caused by hitting the kerb too many times. Bill Leacock ( Limey in exile ) 88 and 109 LR's and 89 RR ------------------------------[ <- Message 47 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971112 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 19:39:49 -0700 From: Rick Grant <rgrant@cadvision.com> Subject: Re: November LROi Magazine At 07:45 PM 11/11/97 -0500, Alexander P. Grice, wrote >I worked today), I don't know of anyone who has gotten LRO yet. Anybody? Nope. Rick Grant 1959, SII "VORIZO" rgrant@cadvision.com www.cadvision.com/rgrant Cobra Media Communications. Calgary, Canada Aboriginal and International Relief Issues ------------------------------[ <- Message 48 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971112 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 23:34:36 -0400 From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca> Subject: Re: November LROi Magazine Alexander P. Grice wrote: > >From the LROSHOP: > >November issues should be on the newsstands and subscribers should have > >received their copies by now. > I dunno. The big local (Barnes and Noble) just got *October*. I've talked > with several folks from Boston to DC to Virginia. While I realize that > today is Veterans Day and govermnent takes a holiday (UPS just delivered and [ truncated by list-digester (was 10 lines)] > today is Veterans Day and govermnent takes a holiday (UPS just delivered and > I worked today), I don't know of anyone who has gotten LRO yet. Anybody? Got mine last week. Some times it hurts to be this lucky! John ------------------------------[ <- Message 49 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971112 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 12 Nov 1997 01:02:41 -0600 From: Wesley Harris <wharris@midmon.com> Subject: Re: November LROi Magazine At 07:45 PM 11/11/97 -0500, you wrote: >>From the LROSHOP: >>November issues should be on the newsstands and subscribers should have >>received their copies by now. >I dunno. The big local (Barnes and Noble) just got *October*. I've talked >with several folks from Boston to DC to Virginia. While I realize that [ truncated by list-digester (was 11 lines)] >today is Veterans Day and govermnent takes a holiday (UPS just delivered and >I worked today), I don't know of anyone who has gotten LRO yet. Anybody? Hmmm, nope. Not a sign of the new LRO yet for me either (I live in PA)... Ah, yes. Veteran's Day. The day when all the Veterans have to work and all the non-veterans get to stay home! Don't think that figures into it all that much; I usually have my copy by now. Pretty frustrating considering what the subscription costs, eh? Cheers, Wes Harris '64 88 SW ------------------------------[ <- Message 50 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971112 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: CIrvin1258@aol.com Date: Wed, 12 Nov 1997 01:30:46 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: Shipping 'cross the pond (no gun content) Roger, If it weren't for the fact that Christmas is just around the corner, I'd reccomend that you find out what it would cost to send it via Royal Mail. They do take large packages, but at this time of year, it'll take at least 2-3 weeks to get it. UPS will probably charge about $100.00 for shipping (roughly) - usually $70.00 is the minimum for anything coming from the U.K. Hope this helps. Charles ------------------------------[ <- Message 51 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971112 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 22:34:42 -0800 From: Jeremy Bartlett <bartlett@slip.net> Subject: Re: Lucas Oddity Christopher H. Dow wrote: > There was a bit of water > in the socket, and I wonder if that was the problem. The water was probably inhibiting the developement of thesmoke known to power all Lucas electrics :) cheers, Jeremy ------------------------------[ <- Message 52 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971112 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: CIrvin1258@aol.com Date: Wed, 12 Nov 1997 01:38:21 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: Gun Crazy Gosh... I've been on both sides of the barrel under battlefield conditions, and I've NEVER seen a gun kill somebody on it's own! Only in movies. Get a grip people: if there were no guns, criminals would do here, as they do in England, which is, use knives, blunt objects, shovels, axes, etc., it makes no difference - if somebody REALLY wants to kill someone, it doesn't matter how they do it, or how long the waiting period is. In the end, it's the person pulling the trigger that makes the decision, and not the gun. Though I own several guns, my weapon of choice is still the old favorite: the Louisville Slugger. Charles ------------------------------[ <- Message 53 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971112 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: ivosloo@cs.up.ac.za Date: Wed, 12 Nov 1997 09:17:10 +0000 Subject: Re: Fuel-outlet-pipe - correction Olafur, I have found my mistake, sorry for the confusing discussion... I actuslly made two mistakes. Firstly, the the distribuor pump's IN is the top one, the bottom is OUT. And secondly, the fuel filter has two lines coming out and only one going in. Here is the story again (making sense this time): The liftpump's in is connected to the out of the fuel tank. The liftpump has ONE out, but it has a little connector taking two pipes, so you can think of it as having two out's. This might seem silly, but I'll explain why it works: the liftpump's one out goes to the base of the distributor pump (its OUT). The other goes to the only IN of the fuel filter. One OUT of the fuel filter goes to the IN of the dist pump and the other goes to the copper pipe connected to all the overflows of the injectors. From there another pipe goes back to the tank again. Here's how it works: The lift pump pumps the fuel directly from the tank. The fuel cannot go IN the dist pump's OUT, so it is forced to go directly to the filter. From the filter it goes to the dist pump's IN. And what's left over after the dist pump did its thing goes out the dist pump's out. Since this is connected to the out of the lift pump, which is also connected to the in of the fuel filter, it just joins the flow of fuel back to the filter. If all of this gets too much for the filter, it goes via the filter's other OUT to the injectors' overflow which is connected to the tank again. So everything ends up in the tank again. Phew! Hope I did not confuse you totally. I can remember it took me a while to figure it out last time too... I see that the Heynes manual has the basics the same, but there are a few differences: They put a sedimentor in the line between the tank and the liftpump. And they have two fuel filters. The difference immediately visible is that they do not have the connector splitting the out of the liftpump - they make it go directly to the first filter. But in the end they have the same kind of scenario (i don't have the details here to explain, but it did not sound as if you had two fuel filters, so it's not applicaable anyway.) - Iwan Vosloo ( 1975 SIII 88" Diesel ) ------------------------------[ <- Message 54 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971112 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
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