[ First Message Last | Table of Contents | <- Digest -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 12 Nov 1997 06:49:47 -0600 From: car4doc <car4doc@concentric.net> Subject: Re: Redlined Hi All, The LR manual lists the the redline as 4800 RPM. Personally I don't shift be above 4000 RPM. The rochester Carb I installed is for a 1967 Chevy truck 250 engine. This is a manual choke & other then increasing the bolt holes bolts right up. Regards, Rob Davis_Chicago . ------------------------------[ <- Message 2 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 12 Nov 1997 08:27:51 -0800 From: matt <nelsml73@snyoneva.cc.oneonta.edu> Subject: Rochester Carb info? Somewhere on the net I say a listing of the CFM ratings for all the popular carbs for rovers(I believe it went solex,zenith,weber1bbl, rochester then weber 2bbl in order from least to greatest...), does anyone know where that was? I havent been able to find it in a while. thanks matt nelson ------------------------------[ <- Message 3 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 12 Nov 1997 8:26:28 -0500 From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov> Subject: Doinking the bumper... Thank goodnes LR bumpers are made of soft stuff. Chances are very good that yours can be straightened out quite acceptably. A certain unnamed party rammed mine into a tree whilst offroading and I was able to pull it out straight again using chain, a telephone pole and low-reverse gear. A bit of noodling with a hammer got it back to like-new condition. Any body shop should be able to do this with no difficulty. Bill Adams 3D Artist/Animator '66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon, '81 Honda Goldwing 1100 Standard: "Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching" ------------------------------[ <- Message 4 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 12 Nov 1997 08:29:03 -0800 From: matt <nelsml73@snyoneva.cc.oneonta.edu> Subject: Re: Rochester Carb > Holden may have the Rochester or an equivalent to it (as rumor has it that > they were closely allied with GM). Mine says GM right on it... matt ------------------------------[ <- Message 5 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org Date: Tue, 11 Nov 97 13:16:11 EST Subject: Re[2]: 'bout damn time! (OVLR Bday web articles) > The truth? You mean that your ignition is as reliable as Dave >Bobeck's? That his embarrasment at the Birthday Party would have been >avoided if he hadn't copied your ignition set-up? :-) embarrasment? hardly. Got through under my own power and without going for a swim, it just took a little longer than some others. And not one drop of water entered any part of the drivetrain... I chalk up Green Car's dislike of moisture to the generic plug wires that don't really fit the posts. Not to mention the dist. cap was full o' water. Found a nice little boot to go over the distributor, seems to have cured what ails her... So 'nuff 'bout last year...we'll see what happens next time... Coil still gets kind of funky. Last 30" abyss/hole I drove through made it stutter a little bit but it didn't stall. Had it stall once about a year ago on a dark rural highway in NJ. Hit a BIG puddle/small pond on the side of the road. Pitch black and pouring rain. Damn thing just up and died. Waited abuot the same amount of time as I did in Ottawa, and she fired right up. Worst part was feeling the wind from cars going by. Best way to fix those pesky ignition problems??? Ask any diesel owner... later DaveB. ------------------------------[ <- Message 6 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org Date: Tue, 11 Nov 97 13:21:26 EST Subject: Re: Oil change interval - synthetic. >I am considering using synthetic oil. At what interval do you synthetic >users change your oil? How about you long term users, like with over 200,000 >miles on your rigs, how are they holding up? Well, Dave, that depends on what you are using the synthetic oil for. later ------------------------------[ <- Message 7 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 12 Nov 1997 08:43:04 -0800 From: matt <nelsml73@snyoneva.cc.oneonta.edu> Subject: Re: Spark Plug Woes I have cad constant problems with bad new Champion plugs, I have used UK and US champions and the problems have still occurred... Added to this is the fact that every mechanic I've known or gone to has stated the same problems occur, the general consensus has been that you are better off with whatever else is avaiable in the same size, the only use I have for champions has been in lawnmowers and similar engines where erratic performance has been of little consequence... So I now that I always stick to the other brands I have had no problems, this solution seems simple enough, anyone else have similar experiences? matt nelson ------------------------------[ <- Message 8 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 12 Nov 1997 08:58:07 -0800 From: matt <nelsml73@snyoneva.cc.oneonta.edu> Subject: front wheel wobble I am in the midst of redoing my swivel balls and uppon reassembling the passenger front wheel discovered that when you grip the tire (top and bottom , while off the ground)you can wobble it in and out quote a bit. Is this perhaps due to a worn kingpin/railco bushing or did I foul up the endplay adjustment? Are there any other possibilities? thanks matt nelson '65 s2a 88" ------------------------------[ <- Message 9 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 12 Nov 1997 9:27:13 -0500 From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov> Subject: Re: Re[2]: 'bout damn time! (OVLR Bday web articles) >Best way to fix those pesky ignition problems??? Ask any diesel owner... Nyuk, nyuk, nyuk.... Bill Adams 3D Artist/Animator '66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon, '81 Honda Goldwing 1100 Standard: "Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching" ------------------------------[ <- Message 10 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Tackley, John" <jtackley.dit@state.va.us> Subject: RE: petrol engine redline, diesel handthrottle + more Date: Wed, 12 Nov 1997 10:18:07 -0500 I believe the redline for the 2.25 petrol is aprox. 5200 to 5500 rpm. I can comment on the consequences of exceeding it. A friend here had his throttle stick wide open as he was entering the Interstate between shifts. Momentarily confused, he dis-engaged the clutch allowing the engine to over rev. He immediately shut off the ignition and pulled over. Upon gathering his composure (and changing his undergarments) he started up his SIII. It ran very rough and lacked power, but he was able to limp slowly back down the ramp in reverse and proceed to another LRO friend's house close by. I was called and when I heard the engine run I thought he had a definite valve problem. Upon removing the valve cover and hand cranking it was readily apparent that the valve spring keeper and cap on #8 exhaust was broken. We will find out tonight if the valve indeed hit the piston. We intend to just replace the seal, keeper and cap, and pushrod, in situ. We will then hand crank to verify that the valve opens and closes properly and is not bent. Then we'll start her up and see... If the valve is bent, well, then off comes the head for further inspection. We just replaced the head gasket and exhaust manifold on this engine a few weeks ago... Any advice regarding our intended procedure would be welcomed, but do it today and directly as work begins late this afternoon. Morale: Don't over rev your petrol 2.25s.(Diesels are governed, no?) John Tackley 70 IIA 88 74 SIII 88 >Richmond, VA ------------------------------[ <- Message 11 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Cooper, Paul" <P.Cooper@shu.ac.uk> Subject: VOLVO Date: Wed, 12 Nov 1997 14:12:31 -0000 Enough is Enough I'm a Landy own & a VOLVO drive and have been for the past eight years(without incident). I admit a small minority of owner's are arrogant take the attitude that there invincible, giving the majority of Volvo owners bad name. But the same can be said for all makes of car, even some landy drivers (present company excluded). Paul Volvo 244 Estate SIIA Hardtop 1968 ------------------------------[ <- Message 12 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Subject: Sighting From: Ketil Kirkerud Elgethun <ketilk@a.sol.no> Date: 12 Nov 1997 16:56:39 +0100 Check out http://www.lycos.com/cybersurfari/splashscreen6.JPEG for a picture of the new, secret, Defender model soon to be unveiled by Land Rover and Lycos :-) -- ---Ketil Kirkerud Elgethun, 1979 109" SW, 21/4 Petrol, "Lillebil" ------------------------------[ <- Message 13 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 12 Nov 1997 18:24:50 +0200 From: Paul Oxley <paul@adventures.co.za> Subject: Re: Sighting Ketil Kirkerud Elgethun wrote: > Check out > http://www.lycos.com/cybersurfari/splashscreen6.JPEG > for a picture of the new, secret, Defender model soon to be unveiled > by Land Rover and Lycos :-) > -- [ truncated by list-digester (was 10 lines)] > -- > ---Ketil Kirkerud Elgethun, 1979 109" SW, 21/4 Petrol, "Lillebil" Oh my! Next thing you know they'll launch a PC with a "Lucas Inside" label... Regards Paul Oxley "into Africa adventures" The African Adventure-travel Webzine http://www.adventures.co.za "AfricanAdrenalin" Sign up for adventure here... http://AfricanAdrenalin.co.za & http://AfricanAdrenalin.com ------------------------------[ <- Message 14 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 12 Nov 1997 12:43:31 -0400 From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca> Subject: Re: Sighting Ketil Kirkerud Elgethun wrote: > Check out > http://www.lycos.com/cybersurfari/splashscreen6.JPEG > for a picture of the new, secret, Defender model soon to be unveiled > by Land Rover and Lycos :-) [ truncated by list-digester (was 11 lines)] > -- > ---Ketil Kirkerud Elgethun, 1979 109" SW, 21/4 Petrol, "Lillebil" Interesting place for the cam shaft! John and Muddy ------------------------------[ <- Message 15 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 12 Nov 1997 12:48:00 -0400 From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca> Subject: Re: Spark Plug Woes matt wrote: > I have cad constant problems with bad new Champion plugs, I have used UK > and US champions and the problems have still occurred... > Added to this is the fact that every mechanic I've known or gone to has > stated the same problems occur, the general consensus has been that you > are better off with whatever else is avaiable in the same size, the only > use I have for champions has been in lawnmowers and similar engines [ truncated by list-digester (was 14 lines)] > this solution seems simple enough, anyone else have similar experiences? > matt nelson I call em like I see em I have good luck with Champions for the most part but I certainly endorse other reputable brands. The point I was making warning against using Shitfire. John and Muddy ------------------------------[ <- Message 16 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Davies, Scott" <sdavies@monetpost.stdavids.ncr.com> Subject: RE: petrol engine redline, diesel handthrottle + more Date: Wed, 12 Nov 97 16:29:00 PST >Morale: Don't over rev your petrol 2.25s.(Diesels are governed, no?) Yep, diesels are governed, the 2.5 n/a Diesel is governed to a max of 4400rpm. The UK MOT test requires the tester to rev the engine up to the point where the governer kicks in (3 times I think). This is inhumane cruelty to diesel engines (and their owners). Just because it's governed doesn't mean it won't go bang; I blew the engine in my landy by running at high speed (foot to the floor down a hill, indicated 68mph), turned out carbon buildup had blocked an oil spray nozzle leading to an overheated piston. Cracked two pistons and did severe damage to my bank balance. How can you detect/prevent carbon build up before it leads to engine failure? Scott Davies '85 110 2.5D HT ------------------------------[ <- Message 17 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: debrown@srp.gov Date: 12 Nov 97 10:33:32 MST Subject: Guns & Rovers (isn't that a rock group???) ;-) From: David Brown - Graphics Specialist ~SRP~ e-mail: debrown@srp.gov PAB219 (602)236-3544 - Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486 Pers. E-mail: rovernut@hotmail.com I have 3 ROVERS, that I love to take out 4-wheeling, and while I'm out there (Arizona) I enjoy shooting my GUNS. I happen to have 3 times more GUNS than ROVERS, but that's because GUNS take up much less space than ROVERS, and usually GUNS cost less than ROVERS too! But if it were not so, I'd have more ROVERS than GUNS, but as it is, I have more GUNS than ROVERS. In fact, I have a GUN rack in one of my ROVERS, and it looks really cool with three assault rifles in it, one has a cool looking scope (Russian assault rifle, Dragonov). I have never killed anyone with any of my GUNS nor ROVERS, but have been tempted to sometimes!! ;-) I keep all my GUNS locked up in my GUN safe, but my ROVERS are scattered all about. If I could find a ROVER with GUNS all over it, like the Pink Panther, then I could combine these two interests into one "GUNS & ROVER" hobby. Dave (GUNS & ROVERS kind-of guy) Brown P.S. Seriously, it's sad to think that someone would unsubscribe over something so trivial. P.P.S. I kind-of like "GUNS & ROVERS" - maybe I'll have it stenciled on one of the ROVERS. Never give up your life for #=======# _____l___ anything that death can take away. |__|__|__\___ //__|__|__\___ -anonymous | _| | |_ |} \__ - ____ - _|} "(_)""""""(_)" (_) (_) ------------------------------[ <- Message 18 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Tackley, John" <jtackley.dit@state.va.us> Subject: RE: detecting carbon buildup in diesels Date: Wed, 12 Nov 1997 12:44:12 -0500 > How can you detect/prevent carbon build up before it >leads to engine failure? >Scott Davies '85 110 2.5D HT Oli analysis, perhaps?? > How can you detect/prevent carbon build up before it ------------------------------[ <- Message 19 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: NADdMD@aol.com Date: Wed, 12 Nov 1997 12:57:07 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: front wheel wobble In a message dated 97-11-12 08:59:20 EST, you write: << I am in the midst of redoing my swivel balls and uppon reassembling the passenger front wheel discovered that when you grip the tire (top and bottom , while off the ground)you can wobble it in and out quote a bit. Is this perhaps due to a worn kingpin/railco bushing or did I foul up the endplay adjustment? Are there any other possibilities? >> Check the hub. The nuts might not be tight enough. Nate ------------------------------[ <- Message 20 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 12 Nov 1997 13:01:20 -0500 From: "Jeffrey A. Berg" <jberg@hearstnewmedia.com> Subject: Bobeck's ignition woes (and mine too...) Dixon casts: >> The truth? You mean that your ignition is as reliable as Dave >>Bobeck's? That his embarrasment at the Birthday Party would have been >>avoided if he hadn't copied your ignition set-up? :-) Dave rises to the bait: >I chalk up Green Car's dislike of moisture to the generic plug wires that >don't >really fit the posts. Not to mention the dist. cap was full o' water. Found a >nice little boot to go over the distributor, seems to have cured what ails >her... Ironically, Dixon (I'm quite certain inadvertantly) has correctly diagnosed the problem. Apparently Dave *had* copied my set up. My ignition woes were caused by a set of poorly fitting "generic" Lucas brand wires which I sourced through D.A.P. On the advice of Charlie Haigh I fitted a set of Lucas Speedleads (>$20, I got 'em through RN, but they're available through local sources as well) and all now seems well in ignition land. Even so, I'll probably fit some sort of distributor boot (rubber glove???) before attempting that pond again. Copy this setup Bobeck. You'll be much happier. ;-) >Best way to fix those pesky ignition problems??? Ask any diesel owner... Extreme, but very true. Make mine a Cummins 6.9l Turbodiesel please. RoverOn! jab == Jeffrey A. Berg Purple Shark Media Rowayton, CT jeff@purpleshark.com ================== Ia oro te natura E mea arofa teie ao nei Ua oau te maitai no te fenua Te vai noa ra te ora o te mitie --Jimmy Buffett, One Particular Harbour ------------------------------[ <- Message 21 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 12 Nov 1997 13:30:43 -0800 From: matt nelson <nelsml73@snyoneva.cc.oneonta.edu> Subject: Re: Spark Plug Woes The point I was > making warning against using Shitfire. > John and Muddy agreed, I've always felt that the split elactrode was a bad idea bacause it could heat up more and erode faster than a standard electrode, thus more frequent regapping would be a constant headache... I've always felt that a good german plug was the best bet, maybe a NGK or AC(maybe). I've always had good luck with ACs and Autolites in other applications... matt ------------------------------[ <- Message 22 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: reynoldsg@tfn.com Date: Wed, 12 Nov 1997 13:31:55 -0500 Subject: Boston Get Together Hi all, Due to work, I'm not going to be able to be there tonight :(. Have a beer or three for me! Have a great time, Jeff Reynolds 1995 Beluga Black Discovery Rovers North Roof Rack 4 Hella Rallye 4000's 1 Hella Work Lamp ------------------------------[ <- Message 23 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 12 Nov 1997 13:51:27 -0800 From: matt nelson <nelsml73@snyoneva.cc.oneonta.edu> Subject: Re: Guns & Rovers (isn't that a rock group???) ;-) good post!lets build pink panthers with MAG-58s and scabbards for L1a!s on them! anyone have any bulletproof glass? I only have one piece; ) matt nelson 65s2a 88 in bits 70s2a 88 in bits 72s3 88 should be in bits FN FAL SKS AR15 and other politically incorrect guns... ------------------------------[ <- Message 24 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: NADdMD@aol.com Date: Wed, 12 Nov 1997 14:11:55 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: Wiper Motor Conversion Info In a message dated 97-11-12 13:02:09 EST, you write: << OK. But does the diagram I described make sense to you? >> I don't know the poles of the two speed wiper motor, but, intuitively, 1. Yes as long as the power goes to the wiper motor before going to pole 1. 2. In the off position then, there should be no circuit from 1 to 2 or 1 to 4. At Fast speed, 1 to 2 should complete a circuit and 1 to 4 for slow. 3. In this way, at the off position, the circuit completes through the park switch (which has a ground wire or strap off of the motor in the 1 speed motor; I don't remember if it grounds through a bolt in the 2 speed variety). ------------------------------[ <- Message 25 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 12 Nov 1997 21:41:30 +0200 From: Paul Oxley <paul@adventures.co.za> Subject: Re: Guns & Rovers (isn't that a rock group???) ;-) debrown@srp.gov wrote: > From: David Brown - Graphics Specialist ~SRP~ e-mail: debrown@srp.gov > PAB219 (602)236-3544 - Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486 > Pers. E-mail: rovernut@hotmail.com > I have 3 ROVERS, that I love to take out 4-wheeling, and while I'm out there > (Arizona) I enjoy shooting my GUNS. I happen to have 3 times more GUNS than > ROVERS, but that's because GUNS take up much less space than ROVERS, and > usually GUNS cost less than ROVERS too! But if it were not so, I'd have more [ truncated by list-digester (was 32 lines)] > -anonymous | _| | |_ |} \__ - ____ - _|} > "(_)""""""(_)" (_) (_) David, I'm shocked!!!! A Dragonov is a sniper's rifle, NOT an assault rifle (yuk, yuk,yuk) Regards Paul Oxley "into Africa adventures" The African Adventure-travel Webzine http://www.adventures.co.za "AfricanAdrenalin" Sign up for adventure here... http://AfricanAdrenalin.co.za & http://AfricanAdrenalin.com ------------------------------[ <- Message 26 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 12 Nov 1997 17:04:41 -0500 From: Mike Johnson <johnsonm@borg.com> Subject: Re: Sighting >Next thing you know they'll launch a PC with a "Lucas Inside" label... I happen to have on on one of my home pages, I made it so geel free to use it. http://www.borg.com/~johnsonm/lr.html Mike Johnson ------------------------------[ <- Message 27 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: QROVER80@aol.com Date: Wed, 12 Nov 1997 17:06:28 -0500 (EST) Subject: Frozen engine blues or the stuck piston woes. OK here's the deal :-) I know what I should do but I am wondering if I need to got to all the trouble. I have an engine here that has stood, in a truck, without any spark plugs, in the great outdoors for a CONSIDERABLE length of time. Years at least. It has been my plan to simply replace the poor beast and be done with it BUT I have decided to see what could be done first. I pulled the head , finding one of the worst burned exhaust valves I have ever seen, and looked down the bores as it were. NOT as bad as I thought it would be. I cleaned the minor surface rust off the bores and applied all reasonable force. With wd40, considerable hammering utilizing a wooden drift and a BIG hammer, I have the thing turning. More or less. The problem seems to be the rings in 2 pistons are stuck in the pistons. causing considerable friction. My question is this has anyone on the list or anywhere had any luck freeing up stuck rings. If I have to I will dig out the ridge reamer , pull the pan and take out the pistons. But any suggestions would be appreciated. Rgds Quintin ------------------------------[ <- Message 28 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: MRogers315@aol.com Date: Wed, 12 Nov 1997 17:07:13 -0500 (EST) Subject: LROI Finished reading mine about three weeks ago. Mike Rogers Lightweight/Range Rover Hybrid (Yes the one with yellow wheels) Hope yellow heels have not been copywrited!!! ------------------------------[ <- Message 29 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 12 Nov 1997 17:27:10 -0500 Subject: Re(2): Sighting From: Jules@learnlink.emory.edu (Sean P. Murphy) johnsonm@borg.com,Internet writes: >I happen to have on on one of my home pages, I made it so geel free to >use >it. >http://www.borg.com/~johnsonm/lr.html I have one as well on mine at http://www.learnlink.emory.edu/solaros that I've been meaning to clean up. Sean P. Murphy Project Director, LearnLink Emory University ------------------------------[ <- Message 30 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 12 Nov 1997 16:33:26 -1000 From: kiotee@mcn.net (Roy Caldwell) Subject: Re: Frozen engine blues >Try using some Miracle Top End oil. I have seen it free stuck pistons and rings after a good soak. Roy - Rovers in Montana - Top Side - Up Over ------------------------------[ <- Message 31 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 12 Nov 1997 16:36:48 -1000 From: kiotee@mcn.net (Roy Caldwell) Subject: Re: solid aluminium rivits Bill, I wrote this for John Hess, If I remember right. Read it and see if it gives any help on the rivet question. Roy - Rovers in Montana Top Side - Up Over ------------------------------[ <- Message 32 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 12 Nov 1997 16:38:02 -1000 From: kiotee@mcn.net (Roy Caldwell) Subject: Re: solid aluminium rivits OOpps!!! Sorry! John, If you want to stay with the original look, it really isn't that hard. The rivet you are looking for is called a tinner rivet. They can be had in different shank and head sizes. They are a soft aluminum and do require a bit of effort to use. Steve does make a point about using pop rivets. They are easier to get and use. From my experience you don't need to use power tools or anything else but a hammer, buck and rivet set. I will explain. When I was in junior high school the metal shop class taught you things like - wrought iron construction, soldering with heated irons, sheet metal pattern making, sheet metal construction and riveting with both steel and aluminum tinner rivets. We didn't have pneumatic hammers and power buck bars or any of that fancy stuff. All we had was our skinny little 13 and 14 year old arms. The tinner rivets on the Rover have been used in applications that tend to involve simply holding things together and as such the rivets are a soft aluminum. When doing the frame-over on my 62, the only thing I regret is not having taken the caps off before painting. They don't need re-galvanization. The taping was a real paint. By the way - the 62 is running and as soon as the plates come; she will be back on the road. This is how I did replace some missing tinner rivets on my 62. I got some rivets from a local sheet metal shop for pennies. They only use pops now and were surprised that somebody still knows how to use them. I got an old spring bolt to make into a set buck or bucking bar. Using a drill the same size as the rivet head, I drilled into the hex-head until a depression was made that just fit the head of the rivet. Using some 230 grit aluminum oxide the resulting depression was smoothed out. I then found another discarded bolt that was about twice the size of the rivet shaft. There you have the set buck and the set for putting new rivets on a Rover. The actual method of application is a bit harder. The set buck holds the head flush against one surface to be riveted. Then from the opposite side, the shaft is penned with the set. What actually happens is that as you hammer the shaft of the rivet compress' and pulls the two pieces of metal together against the head. The object is to strike the set and shaft as square as is possible. This is not always possible. If you look at some of the rivets on your Rovers you will see that the shaft is not always squarely mashed down. The real object is to get the pieces tight; not pretty. That is why tinner rivets have the round head on the exposed side. Replacing the rivets on the caps of the box will require some thinking and a second person to hold the set buck. It seems hard and may look impossible but be patient and practice with a few rivets first. I wanted a military style bonnet tire mount for the 62. But I didn't want to pay high dollar for an original that frankly looked flimsy. So I found an original rear door spare mount shackle and some 1.0 aluminum plate and made my own. I backed the underside with a plate that fit between the two steel bonnet supports. This plate was used to stiffen the bonnet to take the large shackel and bolts. I then removed the original stock spare mounting plate and cut a piece of aluminum to the same diameter. I then riveted the plate on, painted it, installed the shackle and I have a military mount that is twice as stiff as the factory model and with the tinner rivets looks like it's original. I have also used tinner rivets to make repairs in various body spots that originally had tinner rivets. They look just like the original factory rivets. That's my story about using rivets. If you have any questions let me know. Glad to lend some help. I personally like the looks of the tinner rivets. They give the Rover some of that purpose built quality and means a real person put it together; not just a robot welding machine. Congrats on the new truck. Roy - Rovers in the Rockies ------------------------------[ <- Message 33 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 12 Nov 1997 17:49:18 -0500 (EST) From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice) Subject: Dinner invite Since the DC gang is getting together at a Moroccan restaurant, ROAV members in the Norfolk/Virginia Beach area are going ethnic as well. We'll meet Saturday evening at the Nawab (Indian) restaurant at 7:30. As it is situated ground zero at the con/de/struction going on at the intersection of Military Highway and Virginia Beach Blvd., likely you'll need 4WD to get to the parking lot. Drop me a note if you plan to attend. Cheers *---"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----* | A. P. (Sandy) Grice | | Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd. | | "The oldest Rover-marque club in the Americas" | | 1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730 | | E-mail: rover@pinn.net Phone: 757-622-7054 (Day) | | 757-423-4898 (Evenings) FAX: 757-622-7056 | | | *---1972 Series III 88"-----1996 Discovery SE-7(m)---* ------------------------------[ <- Message 34 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Lowe, Dave J" <LoweDJ@BP.com> Subject: RE: Frozen engine blues Date: Wed, 12 Nov 1997 18:00:36 -0500 Quintin, I had a similar problem on an old Case Tractor a few years ago. It was stuck so solide that even dragging it down the road on pavement and popping the clutch in all gears just laid rubber. It was given to me free, so I tried adding some rust solvent which is made by Pematex. The main additive is Molybimum Disulfide. I pored this stuff in each cylinder and let it sit over night. Next morning I went out, stood on the crank, jumped a little bit, and around she turned. Worked it some more by hand cranking, then with the starter motor with the plugs out, pored some oil in and continued to crank over for a minute or so. Then put the plugs back in and it fired right up, burned out the oil and ran great. I too have gone the route you described using WD40 and had mixed result, on previous projects. This stuff I used on the old four cylinder Case was outstanding! Good luck. Dave Lowe > ---------- > From: QROVER80@aol.com[SMTP:QROVER80@aol.com] > Reply To: lro@playground.sun.com > Sent: Wednesday, November 12, 1997 1:06 PM > To: lro@playground.sun.com > Subject: Frozen engine blues [ truncated by list-digester (was 41 lines)] > But any suggestions would be appreciated. > Rgds Quintin ------------------------------[ <- Message 35 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Solihull@aol.com Date: Wed, 12 Nov 1997 18:04:28 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: Spark Plug Woes While we're on the subject, anybody got a good KLG number for 2.25, 8:1 compression? Cheers!! John Dillingham near Canton, GA KF4NAS LROA #1095 73 s3 swb 25902676b DD "Pansy" FS $8k obo 72 s3 swb 25900502a rusted, in suspended animation Looking for a P5 project, well, OK, or a P6 or another SD1 Vintage Rover Service, since 1994, where we say: Land Rovers for Agriculture! Land Rovers for Industry! Land Rovers for Recreation! Land Rovers forever!! D.V. ------------------------------[ <- Message 36 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 12 Nov 1997 18:25:35 -0500 (EST) From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@nrn1.NRCan.gc.ca> Subject: Re: Frozen engine blues On Wed, 12 Nov 1997 QROVER80@aol.com wrote: > stuck in the pistons. causing considerable friction. My question is this has > anyone on the list or anywhere had any luck freeing up stuck rings. If I have > to I will dig out the ridge reamer , pull the pan and take out the pistons. With the original 109 engine, it was pull the pistons and break out the rings. This was sitting with diesel, penetrating oil etc in the bores for months. ------------------------------[ <- Message 37 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 12 Nov 1997 18:27:38 -0800 From: matt <nelsml73@snyoneva.cc.oneonta.edu> Subject: Re: Spark Plug Woes how about the Bosch #s too? ------------------------------[ <- Message 38 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 12 Nov 1997 18:56:31 -0500 (EST) From: Hank Rutherford <ruthrfrd@borg.com> Subject: Dirty Oil Ya'll, My belief is that engine oil discoloration is caused by the buildup of combustion by-products finding their way past the rings, into the oil pan. IMHO, synthetic oil is good for high performance applications where brief oil starvation may occur. Synthetics maintain a more consistent viscosity thru temperature changes, i.e. is thinner at cold temperatures and maintains viscosity when very hot. I find it difficult to throw away oil that costs $4+ per quart after 3500 miles. I find it equally displeasing to run a vehicle 7000 miles on the same oil, whether it be dinosaur oil or synthetic. A lot of oil discoloration can be reduced by removing and cleaning the grunge from the bottom of the oil pan. There can be quite a buildup after 30 years. (Hey Vern, ah jus' changed tha 'ol and it's dun got dirty alriddy). Just my opinion, Ruthrfrd@borg.com ------------------------------[ <- Message 39 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 13 Nov 1997 00:15:31 +0100 From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk> Subject: Steaming rover - advice sought Anyone in the market for quick diagnosis on a SIII 2.25 diesel motor problem - I've had a bad day! First the computer keeps jamming, then I change almost everything - ram, motherboard, processor, videocar, monitor, even scrub the hard disks - and still no progress - then IN THE MIDDLE OF IT ALL - the wife has problems with the Land Rover - KNOW THE FEELING? She was driving along, slight rattling/squeeking/funny/odd noise, then steam from under bonnet - she stops and checks that its not a broken hose, lets it cool a tad, then checks the coolant level - little low - so she adds a wine bottle full (of water). There is rusty water stains over the top of the rad. the rad.cap is fairly new and doesn't feel loose. There is black oil on the rocker cover and manifold side of rocker cover, obviously from out of the breather cap on the rocker cover. She starts and drives away, temperature normal, no leaks or drips, after half a mile, steam again - temperature begins to rise slowly so she stops and gets a lift home - the LR being towed by auto service later. Until I've got this dammed computer working, and have finished writing the script I am working on (or should be if the computer was working ok) I don't want to waste time getting covered in oil and rusty water - but I'm chewing the problem over - so ANY IDEAS? There seems to be no drips from coolant system - we seem to be talking lost steam NOT lost water. The fan belt is tight as usual, and there isn't the tell tale squeaky sound of the pump bearing having worn out - once it starts it doesn't usually stop does it? Anyway - if it were the pump, then usually the bearing leaks water - which makes it sqeak, and drips/showers H2O over floor - none of that as far as I can see. SO is this one problem or two - escaping steam/water? and oil coming out of breather? Is this head gasket time? Has water got into the oil system, forcing oil out of breather, overheating the lower quantity of water, making steam and blowing the pressure cap? OR IS IT JUST A BROKEN FUSE? Help! Give it a thought while you are chewing over something else eh? Adrian Redmond --------------------------------------------------- CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK (Adrian Redmond) Foerlevvej 6 Mesing DK-8660 Skanderborg Denmark --------------------------------------------------- telephone (office) +45 86 57 22 66 telephone (home) +45 86 57 22 64 telefacsimile / data +45 86 57 24 46 mobile GSM (EFP unit) +45 40 74 75 64 mobile GSM (admin) +45 40 54 22 66 mobile NMT +45 30 86 75 66 e-mail channel6@post2.tele.dk HoTMaiL (www.e-mail) channel6denmark@hotmail.com --------------------------------------------------- Visit our homepages! www.channel6.dk --------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------[ <- Message 40 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Jim Holmes" <jrh@hooked.net> Subject: Re: Steaming rover - advice sought Date: Wed, 12 Nov 1997 16:08:45 -0800 > There seems to be no drips from coolant system - we seem to be talking > lost steam NOT lost water. The fan belt is tight as usual, and there > isn't the tell tale squeaky sound of the pump bearing having worn out - > once it starts it doesn't usually stop does it? Anyway - if it were the > pump, then usually the bearing leaks water - which makes it sqeak, and > drips/showers H2O over floor - none of that as far as I can see. > SO is this one problem or two - escaping steam/water? and oil coming out [ truncated by list-digester (was 20 lines)] > Help! Give it a thought while you are chewing over something else eh? > Adrian Redmond Adrian, You might want to consider the thermostat as well. If stuck closed, it could cause the overheating you described. As for oil coming out the rocker cover breather, mine has always does this a bit, both before and after putting a rebuilt head on. I'm not sure if its anything to worry about. Jim ------------------------------[ <- Message 41 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 12 Nov 1997 19:14:45 -0800 From: matt <nelsml73@snyoneva.cc.oneonta.edu> Subject: Re: Dirty Oil Hank Rutherford wrote: > Ya'll, > My belief is that engine oil discoloration is caused by the buildup of > combustion by-products finding their way past the rings, into the oil pan. > IMHO, synthetic oil is good for high performance applications where brief > oil starvation may occur. Synthetics maintain a more consistent viscosity > thru temperature changes, i.e. is thinner at cold temperatures and maintains > viscosity when very hot. I find it difficult to throw away oil that costs [ truncated by list-digester (was 16 lines)] > (Hey Vern, ah jus' changed tha 'ol and it's dun got dirty alriddy). > Just my opinion, Ruthrfrd@borg.com I think you are right about the discolored oil, everthing I've ever read has had the same conclusion and 7000 mile oilchanges make me nervous too! ------------------------------[ <- Message 42 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 12 Nov 1997 20:44:21 -0400 From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca> Subject: Re: Frozen engine blues QROVER80@aol.com wrote: > or the stuck piston woes. > OK here's the deal :-) > I know what I should do but I am wondering if I need to got to all the > trouble. > I have an engine here that has stood, in a truck, without any spark plugs, in > the great outdoors for a CONSIDERABLE length of time. Years at least. It has > been my plan to simply replace the poor beast and be done with it BUT I have [ truncated by list-digester (was 20 lines)] > But any suggestions would be appreciated. > Rgds Quintin I have tried a week soaking in diesel fuel with mixed success. It worked on a 1936 Austin 7 but not on 1948 Austin 8. It is worth a try if you can wait. John and Muddy ------------------------------[ <- Message 43 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: BarrieWyLR@aol.com Date: Wed, 12 Nov 1997 21:15:41 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: Mud Tires - 1957 Series I I believe that they will fit however, the rim 5" wide may tend to blow out the sidewalls. A better choice wold be 7.50 x 16. The O.D. is about the same, but the tead width is a bit less. Be Happy Barrie ------------------------------[ <- Message 44 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: computerphys@hotmail.com Date: Wed, 12 Nov 1997 17:19:05 -0500 Subject: Best kept "secrets" finally exposed state of the art computer, doesn't have to be expensive. You can have a NEW, powerful, Intel Pentium computer directly FROM US, built with ALL quality components at the lowest possible prices in years. Unbelievable, but true! Imagine, $1247 for a 233 MHz MMX Pentium Computer with MMX Technology! The perfect computer for home, school or business use. But buckle up, because this computer absolutely flies! It features an Intel Pentium processor matched with the latest "TX" Intel chipset motherboard for performance that is nothing short of spectacular. Please note this computer is absolutely BRAND NEW (Not refurbished) and they feature Intel PENTIUM processors EXCLUSIVELY (Not cheap substitutes like AMD or Cyrix). Our Computers have MORE memory, MORE power, and MORE speed for your money. They come LOADED with: * 20 Speed Cd-Rom * 33.6 Fax/Modem for fast internet access * a large, fast 2.1 GB Hard drive * 16 MB of RAM * 512 KB Pipeline Burst cache * Top quality motherboard with Intel chipset (very important) * 64 Bit MPEG video with 2 MB RAM * 3D Sound with 80 Watt speakers * 104 Key Windows 95 Keyboard and Mouse * Windows 95 CD Installed Want 32 MB RAM for intense demanding jobs? Add $49. Want a 24 Speed CD-Rom? Add $25. Need a larger hard drive? Upgrade to a 4.3 GB for only $49 A LOW PRICE without quality doesn't mean much!!! Does it? That's why we design and manufacture our computers to LAST well into the next century. We don't skimp on anything. We build our Computers for you CAREFULLY, one at a time (a far cry from the assembly line mentality of: slap it together and hope it works). We TEST each and every one for at least 72 hours, so they work FLAWLESSLY right out of the box. No large company can afford to do that. Nor are they willing to! Consider a reader's survey by PC World Magazine in the June '97 issue. They found MORE THAN HALF of their readers experienced PROBLEMS with BRAND NAME computers they recently bought. They titled the article, "When Bad PCs Happen to Good People." The conclusion is obvious: dealing with a large company doesn't assure you of getting a dependable computer. You are not just a number to us. The technician who builds your computer, custom configures it exactly how you want it - just right for you. He even knows your name since it gets programmed into the computer when he optimizes it for speed and performance. And you'll know his name too, because he signs his name to your computer. This guarantees it has been built to the best of his ability and ready for your computing pleasure. There is nothing for you to do except plug it in and turn it on. That's all! P.S. SPECIAL BONUS IF YOU ORDER NOW! BRAND NEW 15" MONITOR FOR ONLY $199 with the purchase of any Computer. We selected this amazingly sharp and clear .28 SVGA monitor as the perfect match for your new Computer. We custom build the best for you - for less. Call Computer Physician, Inc. today at (215) 836 - 0293 from 7AM - 10PM EST 7 Days a Week If you would prefer not to recieve future E-mails, please join our unsubscribe list by E-mailing us at computerphys@hotmail.com Include as the body of your E-Mail - REMOVE your_E-mail_address (c) Copyright 1997 Computer Physician, Inc. All Rights Reserved. ------------------------------[ <- Message 45 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 12 Nov 1997 22:08:51 -0500 (EST) From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@nrn1.NRCan.gc.ca> Subject: Re: Best kept "secrets" finally exposed On Wed, 12 Nov 1997 computerphys@hotmail.com wrote: > Imagine, When we sobber up and figure out your system and start sending large, very large attachments in large, very large volumes you your account... Couldn't happen to a better enthusiast... Bye bye... ------------------------------[ <- Message 46 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 12 Nov 1997 22:18:17 -0500 (EST) From: chrisste@clark.net (Chris Stevens) Subject: Fuel System Problems IIA Okay folks, this one has be baffled. I finally installed a new fuel tank in the Series IIa over the weekend (D.A.P. tanks, btw, is real quality) and tonight, while on a test drive, the beast just lost power under acceleration and died. A quick check showed fuel coming into the carb (Zenith); I primed the fuel pump several times and cleaned the sediment bowl; then the thing idled like a clock--for about 20 minutes, until I tried to drive it away. Then it died, sort of like it was not getting enough fuel. It's gotta be the fuel system, I figure. Is this the sign of a bad fuel pump; accelerator pump? How can I tell? any other ideas? Chris Stevens Towson, MD 1969 Series IIA 88" Petrol ------------------------------[ <- Message 47 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 12 Nov 1997 21:24:33 -0600 From: car4doc <car4doc@concentric.net> Subject: Re: Frozen engine blues Hi Quintin, I unstuck my brothers engine which sat for we guess 12 to 15 years with a product called Kroil. We left the engine together & put in the Kroil over night. Then we put in an air fitting in one sparkplug hole with the rest of the plugs out & the valve all closed. Standing on the hand crank was enough to turn the engine. Next we turned it over untill we got oil pressure with the starter. Compression was 128 PSI when we put the plugs in & started it. No smoke or stuck rings. Kroil is the best product of choice for stuck rings. -- Rob Davis_chicago ------------------------------[ <- Message 48 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 12 Nov 1997 22:59:00 -0500 (EST) From: David Scheidt <david@math.earlham.edu> Subject: Re: Fuel System Problems IIA On Wed, 12 Nov 1997, Chris Stevens wrote: > > enough fuel. It's gotta be the fuel system, I figure. Is this the sign of a > bad fuel pump; accelerator pump? How can I tell? any other ideas? > > enough fuel. It's gotta be the fuel system, I figure. Is this the sign It certainly sounds like a fuel problem. Of course, there are a gazzilion things that could be. Do you have an inline fuel filter? Change it if you do, add one if you don't. If you have a spare fuel pump swap it in, otherwise disconnect the line at the carb and see if you have decent pressure when you crank it. (I forget the spec, but 2or 4 pounds seems about right). To check the accelerator pump, take of the air cleaner plumbing and look down the throttle of the carb. You should see a little stream of gas when you work the throttle. David 66 SIIA 88" -------- David_Scheidt@math.earlham.edu yip yip yip yap yap yak yap yip *BANG* -- no terrier ------------------------------[ <- Message 49 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 12 Nov 1997 23:04:27 -0500 (EST) From: David Scheidt <david@math.earlham.edu> Subject: SIIA clutch slave As soon as the UPS guy comes tomorrow, I am going to replace the clutch slave cylinder on my SIIA 88. Is there anything that is not straightforward about this? Just undo the fixings, curse that I forgot that all the brake fluid is going to come out, bolt the new one in, adjust the pushrod, bleed the thing, right? Or am I missing something? And why does the factory shop manual tell me to remove the floor? David -------- David_Scheidt@math.earlham.edu yip yip yip yap yap yak yap yip *BANG* -- no terrier ------------------------------[ <- Message 50 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: RoverNut@aol.com Date: Wed, 12 Nov 1997 23:05:04 -0500 (EST) Subject: My dear IIa is for sale When I acquired the 110, I knew that I'd have to sell her. She's had a ton of work done on her in the past year. It's killing me. I'm asking $8500. It's located in Central NC, near Chapel Hill. I have a page and a half long list of everything that's been done in the past year and can fax it to interested parties. Alex Maiolo ------------------------------[ <- Message 51 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 12 Nov 1997 23:59:56 -0500 (EST) From: landrovr@usaor.net (Jon R. Humphrey) Subject: Re: SIIA clutch slave Or am I missing something? And why >does the factory shop manual tell me to remove the floor? >David >-------- >David_Scheidt@math.earlham.edu >yip yip yip yap yap yak yap yip *BANG* -- no terrier David I must take offence to your reference to *Banging* your terrier.!!!! As an animal rights activist I must insist you stop this behavior, right this second ....!!!!!! The "yip yip yip yap yap yak yap yip" is indicitive of it's sensitive understanding of your mental state of refusal to remove aluminum flooring. There are others who might take *BANGING* the terrieres more seriously. Do not *BANG* your terrier. And never *BANG* a Terri..er in a "LAND ROVER" Even If it is GREEN..... Just being cautionary, don't be upset Jon ------------------------------[ <- Message 52 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: CIrvin1258@aol.com Date: Thu, 13 Nov 1997 00:31:50 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: Repsonse from a Colonial Last time I was over there (nice thing about working for British Airways - they sometimes send you to the "old country" for training courses!), I picked up a Loot, and an Underground pass, (works on buses, too), and I was set! Total cost to travel around London for a day $12.00. Of course - if I had a gun, and a Green Rover, the cost wouldn't have been any cheaper, but it would have been more fun! (hehehe) Charles (I had to put that last line in...I just had to. hehehe) ------------------------------[ <- Message 53 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 12 Nov 1997 18:44:20 +0200 From: wrm@ccii.co.za (Wouter de Waal) Subject: Station Wagon rear doors Hi all I need some new rear stationwagon doors. Arrow in the UK have them (they call 'em safari doors) at 53-ish UKP. Anybody have any experience with these doors? A local dude sez they might be tin-skinned (as opposed to alumin(i)um)? Sounds strange to me. W ------------------------------[ <- Message 54 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 13 Nov 1997 14:25:17 From: James Mercer <james@babbage.cs.murdoch.edu.au> Subject: Oil as a Religion (No LR content) Hi All, This drifted in on from the Moto Guzzi mailing list. I thought that seeing how oil is a topic so close to our hearts, hands and driveways, people might like it. James. ---------------------------------------------------- From: ob1tomob <ob1tomob@micro.internexus.net> Subject: Oil as a Religion 11-12-97 Religion and motor oil are two discussions I will not be dragged into. So follow your heart or your best instincts or whatever it is you do to pick your poison and I promise I will never try to disuade you. I do however, have some stories. #1 ............ My friend has made a ritual of changing the oil in his beloved Porsche. I guess like other religious acts much is expected by the following of this periodic observance - health and long life of the engine, quick starting, and God knows what all else. I happened in on him in the middle of this act of faith one day; he seemed a bit non-plussed, a bit like someone caught in a private moment, praying perhaps. He recovered quickly and began to explain about all the separate steps involved in this holiest of holy acts: the hot engine, the funnel with a screen and of course the choice of oil. This oil was the only oil to use, the creme de la creme of lubricants, used by the most knowledgeable crew chiefs, and so on. He was pouring in the last can through the funnel when we heard a tiny "clink". It was a flat head sheet metal screw that had just dropped out of the can. He was agast - his faith shattered, just standing there head down, staring at the screw. I suggested that in the future he decant the oil and let it air ahead of time. And I left. #2 ..... We used to go to Port Newark to pick up racing oil, a castor oil based product - good stuff. But we always got a kick out of seeing the big Sun Oil truck dropping off 55 gal drums. They could have been empty I suppose. #3 ...... If you win a race or two all your acquaintances, who previously didn't think you had enough sense to come in out of the rain, start hanging on your every word. You have suddenly, heaven knows why, become expert on many things, but regarding oil you are now infallible. Now most racers have an oil sponsor but I managed to have two. Just another way to live dangerously, I guess. So I would suggest to them the first of these because the other oil company was sending me something quite different from that which they retailed. It came in big unmarked five gallon cans to which I had to add something else just before it was used. Well, you can't keep a secret forever and they found out that I was really using Brand #2. But what they didn't know ( and I couldn't tell them ) was the stuff they bought didn't bear much resemblance to what I got paid to use. #4 ....... Bridgehampton Road Course circa 1957 Jaguar had a gearbox problem. It got solved when Castrol ( I think it was them ) developed a special oil just for Jags. Al Momo ran the Jag team and when he told his friend Lou Comito about the oil Lou decided he wanted to run it in his Alfa gearbox. Word got around and pretty soon half of the Alfa guys had mooched oil from Al Momo until he was completely out of the stuff. Vince Sardi was running his Alfa that day and was the last to hear about the trick oil. But by that time Al was all out. The race started. Vince was running eighth and holding that position when one by one the cars in front of him went out - you guessed it - gearbox problems. I talked to Lou about a long time later - by then it had become funny. He said his foot slipped off the brake like it was greased, damn near crashed, looked down and there was an inch of oil foam on the floor. It was boiling out of the transmission shift tower like Vesuvius gone beserk. Soon after the trans was dry. Lou had been leading at the time. Vince Sardi won the race. #5 ... and the last We were running an oil that seemed to work better than anything in our seizure prone 250 Huskys. Worked great for at least a season and then suddenly we were back to our old problems again even worse than before. We finally found something else but I often wondered what happened. It is indeed a small world. Years later when I mentioned this to a Harley dealer friend of mine he laughed and said " My God, you weren't really using that stuff? " Turns out he had worked for this small specialty company actually doing the compounding. Seems when they'd run low on cash they would cut back on the secret additive that made this stuff work. Then, because the owner felt guilty, he put extra in the next couple of batches. We must have been lucky about always getting some of the right batches in the beginning, and then our luck changed. That company's luck changed too - they aren't around anymore. TomOB --- James Mercer Professional Officer Department of Information Technology Murdoch University Phone: + 61 8 9360 2790 Facs: + 61 8 9360 2941 Email: james@cs.murdoch.edu.au Email: j.mercer@murdoch.edu.au ------------------------------[ <- Message 55 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: ivosloo@cs.up.ac.za Date: Wed, 12 Nov 1997 15:08:03 +0000 Subject: Re: Oil change interval - synthetic. William Pittman wrote: > than synthetic. Granted, even conventional oil will probably not break > down at 3k miles. This was the point I'm trying to make... Mike Johnson wrote: > Ask your self what makes oil dirty. My understanding is that when the > metal parts rub against each other the "dirt" or metallic residue is what > makes oil "dirty". Err.. I'm no expert, so you might have a point, BUT remember I drive a diesel :-). And WHATEVER oil you put in there is pitch black after a drive around the block... I don't know about petrols, but this just tells me that "dirt" comes from cylinder walls etc too. err... and the Barnett said some good things about synthetic oil... Barnett, do you drive a petrol or a diesel? - Iwan Vosloo ( 1975 SIII 88" Diesel ) ------------------------------[ <- Message 56 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Richard Marsden"<rmarsden@digicon-egr.co.uk> Date: Thu, 13 Nov 1997 09:04:57 +0000 Subject: Re: Best kept "secrets" finally exposed And its not as if their machine was particularly cheap. My new PC was much better spec (except for the CPU - straight P200) better OS, memory, video, hd,etc,etc, and was cheaper and that was in the UK. I thought US machines were meant to be cheaper? :-) Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR and "Slartibartfast" the P200) dkenner@nrn1.nrcan.gc.ca on 11/13/97 03:08:51 AM Please respond to lro@playground.sun.com cc: (bcc: Richard Marsden/EAME/VDGC) Subject: Re: Best kept "secrets" finally exposed On Wed, 12 Nov 1997 computerphys@hotmail.com wrote: > Imagine, When we sobber up and figure out your system and start sending large, very large attachments in large, very large volumes you your account... Couldn't happen to a better enthusiast... Bye bye... ------------------------------[ <- Message 57 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Richard Marsden"<rmarsden@digicon-egr.co.uk> Date: Thu, 13 Nov 1997 09:08:45 +0000 Subject: Re: Oil change interval - synthetic. Mine was like that. Frequent oil changes (well, more than they say in the books), and attempting to clean things out (including dropping the sump) seems to have helped. Of course it still goes black, but not as quickly. I needed a new sump gasket - hence the triple-oil-spill sump-dropping trick! Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR) ivosloo@cs.up.ac.za on 11/12/97 03:08:03 PM Please respond to lro@playground.sun.com cc: (bcc: Richard Marsden/EAME/VDGC) Subject: Re: Oil change interval - synthetic. William Pittman wrote: > than synthetic. Granted, even conventional oil will probably not break > down at 3k miles. This was the point I'm trying to make... Mike Johnson wrote: > Ask your self what makes oil dirty. My understanding is that when the > metal parts rub against each other the "dirt" or metallic residue is what > makes oil "dirty". Err.. I'm no expert, so you might have a point, BUT remember I drive a diesel :-). And WHATEVER oil you put in there is pitch black after a drive around the block... I don't know about petrols, but this just tells me that "dirt" comes from cylinder walls etc too. err... and the Barnett said some good things about synthetic oil... Barnett, do you drive a petrol or a diesel? - Iwan Vosloo ( 1975 SIII 88" Diesel ) ------------------------------[ <- Message 58 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 13 Nov 1997 09:44:15 +0000 From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth) Subject: Re: Steaming rover - advice sought >You might want to consider the thermostat as well. If stuck closed, it >could cause the overheating you described. >As for oil coming out the rocker cover breather, mine has always does this >a bit, both before and after putting a rebuilt head on. I'm not sure if its >anything to worry about. I'll second that.'Stat or head gasket.And oil comes out of my breather too. Even after a rebore,and recon head. Mike Rooth ------------------------------[ <- Message 59 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 12 Nov 1997 05:50:02 From: "Dr. R. Westerfield" <EduNet@Iname.Com> Subject: ANNOUNCE> CUBA/AFRICA/BRAZIL PROG; GHANA Dist Lrng Conf->May 20 Please Post A N N O U N C E M E N T UPDATE: Ghana Distance Learning Conference - May 20 - 22, 1998; At the end, please find an update, and an invitation to volunteer help with the planning and implementation ____________________________________________________________________ I. A f r i c a - B r a z i l - C u b a P r o g r a m s ____________________________________________________________________ Internships / Travel-Study / EduTouring / Experiential / Study Abroad ____________________________________________________________________ AASP EDUCATIONAL / Travel Programs to AFRICA & BRAZIL & CUBA for 1997 / 1998 / 1999 Offers an intense immersion in and exposure to traditional and modern life, a unique educational experience that is both career-enhancing and profoundly personal and relevant in our Global Village. Select from among several different travel itineraries, program themes, and dates year round. CONTACT: Professor Harold Rogers President, AASP 19 S. LaSalle St., Suite 301 Chicago, IL 60603 Ph: 312-443-0929; 773-684-7309; FAX: 773-684-6967 Best to call for an application; or E-mail your name & full address to BOTH: 1- "Update/Information" <AASP@Juno.Com> 2- "Brochure/Application" <AfricanEduTravel@Yahoo.Com> WHEN TO APPLY? We are now accepting applications. COUNTRIES: Senegal, Ivory Coast, Mali, South Africa, Egypt, Ethiopia, Ghana, Kenya, Zimbabwe, The Gambia, Cameroon, Mozambique, Namibia, Brazil, Cuba ACTIVITIES & SITES: Urban centers; rural villages; cultural and historical sites; geographic and natural landmarks; explore traditional life, linguistic and ethnic diversity; experience a unique blend of human warmth, vitality of spirit, and determination; leave the beaten path to see, feel and appreciate what few tourists ever would or could. DURATION: Programs range from 1 week to 3 weeks, beginning variously in December, February, June, July & August. Special programs with particular themes may be arranged. COST: Fees start at $995 - the lowest cost anywhere for a program of this scope; includes travel, accommodations, breakfast & full daily program -- led by Dr. Rogers and experienced AASP staff. ACADEMIC CREDIT: Students typically arrange to receive academic credit with their respective schools, from 5 to 10 units, or through AASP. WHO CAN APPLY? Participation is open to professionals, students, non-students, technicals, and interested others. All are welcome. Applications now accepted. HOW TO RAI$E THE FUND$? Please go to the Websites below where you will find superb help with fundraising -- how to obtain grants, scholarships and loans; how to receive support from your campus or department; how to appeal to groups and organizations both on campus and in the community; and how to win support from businesses, charities and foundations. Succeeding will largely be a matter of your asking and being persistent. Virtually all who make an effort to raise the funds, do succeed. http://www.studyabroad.com/forum/financial_aid.html http://www.fund-raising.com/ideabank3.html (a cornucopia of ideas!) http://www.studyabroad.com/handbook/costs.html#aid ______________________________________________________________________ Contact us to receive the application, brochure with itineraries, program details and special features. For faster response, it's best to phone: 312-443-0929; 773-684-7309 ______________________________________________________________________ ABOUT US... The African American Studies Program, established in 1981, is a non-profit organization committed to broadening educational, cultural and political perspectives about African countries, societies and peoples. More than just a tour, we offer a variety of educational experiences in each country to heighten awareness and understanding. Our programs are open to anyone who has an interest in learning more about Africa and the African Diaspora. ====================================================================== II. Your Invitation to Help... UPDATE ON THE GHANA DISTANCE LEARNING/INFO TECH CONFERENCE TO BE HELD IN ACCRA: MAY 20 - 22 1998 VOLUNTEERING HELP ON BEHALF OF THE ACCRA DISTANCE LEARNING CONFERENCE, VIA INFORMAL DISCUSSION BY E-MAIL FOR INFO, CONTACT: "DR. OSEI DARKWA" <darkwa@tigger.cc.uic.edu> Faculty, University of Illinois-Chicago Please contact Dr. Darkwa if you would like to participate pro bono in the planning and implementation of this conference, or play some other role in the area of your interest. You are invited to join the E-Mail discussion group GHACLAD-SCOPE which has been set up to promote and carry out the conference, including making all arrangements, resolving any problems, and fine-tuning the agenda and program. A number of IT and Distance Learning consultants/specialists/academicians and students interested in African education and business networking, participate in this list and in the general conference effort. You are invited to get involved. To join the List, please send a msg with "subscribe ghaclad-scope" in the body to: majordomo@igc.org You will immediately be added to the GHAGLAD-SCOPE discussion group. To contact the moderators of this list or to obtain additional information, write to: owner-ghaclad-scope@igc.org and darkwa@tigger.cc.uic.edu HOW TO LET VOLU IN ACCRA, GHANA -- the Conference sponsor -- KNOW OF YOUR WILLINGNESS TO HELP VOLU needs volunteers to help out on various conference-related tasks, by means of informal discussion by E-Mail. All inquiries about volunteering and task assignments should be directed to both: "Dr Osei Darkwa"<darkwa@tigger.cc.uic.edu> Faculty, University of Illinois - Chicago and, "Francis Donkor - Gen. Secty" <volughana@ug.gn.apc.org> Thanks! _________________________________________ FINAL DATES OF CONFERENCE May 20-22, 1998 OBJECTIVES OF THE CONFERENCE a) To initiate a long-term effort to promote electronic networking for economic and educational development in Africa. b) To examine the future of education in electronic classroms without walls c) To explore the barriers to developing transnational goals for infusing computer literacy into primary, secondary, and tertiary education in Africa d) To strengthen the capacity of grassroots organizations and low income communities to initiate, choose, plan and manage their own self help projects through computer technology and information systems. FOCUS OF THE CONFERENCE This conference focuses on the use of information technology to enhance economic,social, cultural, and educational development of African countries. SUB-THEMES OF THE CONFERENCE INCLUDE: ST1: Instructional Use of Information Systems in Africa ST2: Role of Internet Providers in Africa ST3: Community-Based Computing Services ST4: Computer Literacy and Distance Education: Curse and Blessing ST5: Computer Security Issues, Concepts and Resources ST6: Telecottages and Software Development in Africa ST7: Social Implications of Information Technology in Africa ST8: Application of Information Systems in Government and Businesses ST9: Technology in Developing Countries: Dividing or Uniting ST10: Age and Gender Issues in the Use of Information Systems in Africa ST11: The Use of Digital Library Resources in Education, Science, and Technology ST12: Ethical Norms in the Development and Use of New Information and Communication Technologies ST13: How To Create a Distance Learning Course and How to Make it Work. ST14: Conventional vs Distance Learning: Perspectives from Faculty and Students--Benefits, Dilemmas, Questions ST15: Linking Classrooms Between the North and the South Through Distance Learning: Curriculum Construction and Cost-Sharing ST16: Distance Learning and Academic Freedom in Africa/Linking with Africa via Distance Learing: A View from Historically Black Colleges and universities EXPECTED RESULTS AND PRODUCTS: * The creation of an awareness of computer literacy needs at the community and grassoots level; * A catalog of demonstration effects on public opinion in terms of what information technology can offer for national and international development; * A report on possibilities and barriers to developing broad-based goals for infusing computer literacy into primary, secondary, and tertiary in Africa; * A report on how to strengthen the capacity of grassroots organizations and low-income communities to initiate, choose, and manage their own self help projects through computer technology and information systems; * A catalog of sharable ideas/resources towards understanding the state of information technology in Africa and how information technology is being applied at various levels in Africa. INTENDED AUDIENCE Pofessionals / experts Students Government officials and policy makers Practitioners engaged in economic and educational development Researchers Persons interested in education and networking in Africa, Latin America, Asia and the Middle East Information technologists Promoters of global education and new strategies NGO's, international development organizations Organizations / researchers focusing on gender issues etc. _________________________________ Thank you. Regards, Dr. R. Westerfield EduNet Global Curricular & Scholastic Networking ------------------------------[ <- Message 60 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 13 Nov 1997 12:19:11 +0100 From: Jan Schokker <janjan@xs4all.nl> Subject: RE: detecting carbon buildup in diesels At 12:44 12-11-97 -0500, you wrote: >> How can you detect/prevent carbon build up before it >>leads to engine failure? >>Scott Davies '85 110 2.5D HT >Oli analysis, perhaps?? Compression will go up if the build up is serious. I have seen a slight drop in compression after cleaning the combustion chamber and top of the piston in both my Landrover 2,25 petrol and Moto Guzzi motorbike. Jan. ------------------------------[ <- Message 61 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
END OF * LIST DIGEST Input: messages 60 lines 2843 [forwarded 250 whitespace 689] Output: lines 2116 [content 1248 forwarded 150 (cut 100) whitespace 633][ First Message | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Back | Forward | |
---|---|---|
Photos & text Copyright 1990-2011 Bill Caloccia, All rights reserved. Digest Messages Copyright 1990-2011 by the original poster or/and Bill Caloccia, All rights reserved.
|