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Date: Mon, 10 Nov 1997 12:15:56 +0000
From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Subject: Re: workhorse of the world

Agreed,the Dak is the *series* Land Rover of the air,but I reckon the
Herky is the coil sprung variant.....
Cheers
Mike Rooth

------------------------------

From: Easton Trevor <Trevor_Easton@dofasco.ca>
Subject: Block Heaters
Date: Mon, 10 Nov 1997 07:20:00 -0500

Canadian Tire have a magnetically attached block heater on sale
currently (30-3203-8 ) for $24.95 see it at
http://www.canadiantire.ca/cgi-bin/e-flyer/detail.cgi?4571:346:9:e:2758
Usual disclaimers.
>From the picture this looks like a unit that attaches to the oil pan and
warms everything up from there. The advantage of this variety is the
versatility to attach it to anything that has a steel pan with
sufficient flat area without a permanent hook up.

Trevor Easton. Miss Golightly and Flossie, the Blue Rovers,(But they
look green under sodium lights)

------------------------------

From: QROVER80@aol.com
Date: Mon, 10 Nov 1997 08:25:12 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Advice for Colonials in Landrover heaven.

In response to inquieries about buying Rover stuff in England I am posting
this list of suggestions. :-) 
Feed back would be appriecated. Rgds Quintin

I ) Bring LOTS of money. I spent $1500 on parts and I could have
realistically spent $10,000 Credit cards, bank cards, and best of all money
orders work well. The banks will take you to the cleaners on cash.
2) Be prepared for incidental expenses of food, fuel, (At $1.15 a LITER  !!!!
), and the tickets to get here. I bought an old car to run around in it was
MUCH cheaper than renting anything but riskier. 
3) Figure out how to get it all home in ADVANCE. Buying stuff is EASY
compared with getting it back. The way my stuff comes home I may not see some
of the low priority stuff for a year.
4) Be prepared to travel a LOT, I have put better than 4000 miles on the poor
little $175 Datsun in about 4 weeks.
5) Comparison shop. To get good prices you have to go to these places and
look around. ALL the places I went had some bargains. With some things I saw
a 5 fold variance in prices. Ask me about military headlights for instance.
6) Plan when you come over to coincide with one of the big Rover events.
Sodbury was AMAZING, More on that later. :-)
7) In the states a Landrover is a rare thing, in England they are everywhere,
 prepare to be overwhelmed.
Rgds Quintin

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Nov 1997 08:29:35 -0500
From: Mike Johnson <johnsonm@borg.com>
Subject: Re: workhorse of the world

>>I always thought of the DC-3 as the Land Rover of the air.
>Agreed,the Dak is the *series* Land Rover of the air,but I reckon the
>Herky is the coil sprung variant.....
Having 2200+ hrs on RC130's and EC130H's I'd say they are more like a SII.
Jets, those are coilers (C135, C141, C5 and Nimrod)

$.02

Mike Johnson
Berlin for Lunch Bunch // Compass Call 1987-1993
johnsonm@borg.com
www.borg.com/~johnsonm

------------------------------

From: "Richard Marsden"<rmarsden@digicon-egr.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 10 Nov 1997 13:39:29 +0000
Subject: Re: workhorse of the world

Please respond to lro@playground.sun.com

cc:    (bcc: Richard Marsden/EAME/VDGC)

>>>I always thought of the DC-3 as the Land Rover of the air.
>>Agreed,the Dak is the *series* Land Rover of the air,but I reckon the
>>Herky is the coil sprung variant.....
>Having 2200+ hrs on RC130's and EC130H's I'd say they are more like a
>SII.
>Jets, those are coilers (C135, C141, C5 and Nimrod)
Naah, they're Range Rovers.

So, I guess the 777 is the Freeloader?

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Nov 1997 09:56:37 -0400
From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Rochester Model B update.

car4doc wrote:
> Hi All.
>  Well I did it.  I went ahead & installed the Rochester Carb & what a
> differance.  WOW.  I have to fine tune it & may still change the main
> jet but as is it is amazing.   I could not use the O\D with the Single
> barrel weber because the power range just could not provide the needed
> power.  In addition I installed Splitfire plugs at the same time. I
> hoped it would provide me a hotter firing if I was running to rich a
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 16 lines)]
> Regards,
> Rob Davis_Chicago
Rob If in about  3 month you notice a lack of power and other symptoms
dump the splitfire plugs. In the auto repair business they are known to
be garbage and the theory they are supposed to work on is against the
laws of physics. Land Rovers work best on Champions  I don't know why
but trust me that is the way it is.
     John and Muddy

------------------------------

From: Andy Phillips <AnPi@norsk-data.co.uk>
Subject: RE: Advice for Colonials in Landrover heaven.
Date: Mon, 10 Nov 1997 14:21:06 -0000

	I ) Bring LOTS of money. I spent $1500 on parts and I could have
	realistically spent $10,000 Credit cards
Yup. Credit cards are the best. They also sort out exchange rates for
you better than a lot of places. I use one to buy computer stuff from
America an its much simpler and quicker!
	2) Be prepared for incidental expenses of food, fuel, (At $1.15
a LITER  !!!!
	), and the tickets to get here. I bought an old car to run
around in it was
	MUCH cheaper than renting anything but riskier. 
You might want to try hiring a diesel van for a week. They can be quite
reasonable and spacious.  (Fuel is unbelievably expensive over here
hence the popularity of diesel engines.) This means that you can send
everything off in one go and get a discount from a single shipping firm
by emptying the van on their doorstep at the end of the trip.  It also
means when you're at home waiting for it to turn up you can expect it to
arrive all at once!
	5) Comparison shop. To get good prices you have to go to these
places and
	look around.
Even by looking in the latest copy of LROi you can save a fortune on the
same bits and bobs. It can be difficult to find good prices so turning
up at a big event may be a way to get what you want at a good price.
Turning up often means you get to knock the price down as its harder to
tell a buyer "No" face to face.
	7) In the states a Landrover is a rare thing, in England they
are everywhere,
	 prepare to be overwhelmed.
If you're up north and just driving around don't wave at every Land
Rover as it confuses people. Most of them are just driving it because
they are useful on the farm and during the winter, not because they are
in a club! Lots of stickers etc. is a clue as to whether its a farmer or
a farmer in a club.

Just one thing to add:

Make a list! If you turn up at Sodbury or another big event or store
you'll buy everything except what you really wanted because of the
prices. Write down the key things and you won't leave the UK thinking
"Damn! I saw at least 50 of those at half price - why didn't I get
one?!!" It also helps to work out what parts are around that might be
confused with what you're seeking.

Good luck and good hunting.

Andy.

------------------------------

From: lroshop@idirect.com
Date: Mon, 10 Nov 1997 09:43:23 +0000
Subject: Re: Nov. LROI issue

November issues should be on the newsstands and subscribers should 
heve received their copies by now.  We are not aware of any delays 
this month.

> Date:          Sat, 08 Nov 1997 18:46:59
> Reply-to:      lro@playground.sun.com
> To:            lro@playground.sun.com
> X-To:          lro@playground.sun.com
> From:          James Wolf <J.Wolf@worldnet.att.net>
> Subject:       Nov. LROI issue

> Has anyone rec'd the Nov. issue of LROI? My sub. should be good until 6-98,
> maybe it's to early. I have already gotten the Nov. issue of LRW at Barnes
> and Noble, suppose I should check to see if they have it yet. Maybe the
> postperson 8^) has gotten a Landy and wants to read it first.
> Jim Wolf
> Subject:       Nov. LROI issue

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 11 lines)]
> Jim Wolf
> 1966 109 sw "Vicky tm"
LRO SHOP (NORTH AMERICA)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Nov 1997 10:08:25 -0500
From: "Jeffrey A. Berg" <jeff@purpleshark.com>
Subject: 'bout damn time! (OVLR Bday web articles)

Okay, I finally succombed to the threats and ridicule, stopped doing
unimportant stuff--like working and crawling around beneath my Rover--and
finished the web article on the 1997 OVLR Birthday Party.

Those who've been holding their breath are dead by now. The rest of you can
check it out at:

http://www.off-road.com/OVLR/Events/Birthday_97/index.html

As usual, send praise to me but niggling complaints should be routed to
Dixon. ;-)

Also, if you've missed any of my past articles--or just want to consolidate
your bookmarks file, then check out

http://www.off-road.com/OVLR/jberg/index.html

>From there you're just a click away from all of my Rover articles on the
OVLR, RoverWeb and EROS web sites.

Currently in the works is a write up on the Mid-Atlantic Rally. After that
I plan to finish up the account of what happened after Jeff Meyer, Zippy
and I left Ottawa (including the truth about FINSUP's drowning) and headed
to Maine for the Downeast.

All of this stuff is in progress one way or another--but I wouldn't hold my
breath waiting for it...

RoverOn!

jeff

==
 Jeffrey A. Berg     Purple Shark Media        Rowayton, CT
                    jeff@purpleshark.com
                     ==================
	My garden is full of papayas and mangos.
	My dance card is filled with merengues and tangos.
	Taste for the good life,
	I can see it no other way.
		--Jimmy Buffett, Lone Palm (live version)

------------------------------

From: RICK_SNYDER@HP-Andover-om3.om.hp.com
Date: Mon, 10 Nov 97 08:08:10 -0700
Subject: Unleaded Gas in a IIA

Item Subject: cc:Mail Text
I now have my '71 IIA up and running!  I've been concerned about running it 
with unleaded gasoline since it does NOT have hardened (Stellite?) valves.  
What's the latest opinion on the requirements for fuel - is there an 
additive?  Should I worry?

Rick_Snyder@hp.com

'71 IIA

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Nov 1997 10:25:54 -0500 (EST)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@nrn1.NRCan.gc.ca>
Subject: Re: 'bout damn time! (OVLR Bday web articles)

On Mon, 10 Nov 1997, Jeffrey A. Berg wrote:

> I plan to finish up the account of what happened after Jeff Meyer, Zippy
> and I left Ottawa (including the truth about FINSUP's drowning) and headed
> to Maine for the Downeast.

	The truth?  You mean that your ignition is as reliable as Dave
Bobeck's?  That his embarrasment at the Birthday Party would have been
avoided if he hadn't copied your ignition set-up?  :-)

------------------------------

From: "Joe Ankeny" <jankeny@cgwg.com>
Subject: My truck sounds like a hog
Date: Mon, 10 Nov 1997 09:39:50 -0600

I really need advice. I sent the head from my 63 2.25 to the machine shop
to be cleaned and for new valves to be installed. I've put it back in place
on the engine. When the truck is running its really really loud, just like
a Harley. I've double checked the three bolts from the exhaust manifold to
the pipe. They seem allright. I examined the manifold itself for cracks and
allthough I didn't go over it with a microscope I didn't see any problems.
It is the old style manifold with that butterfly flap valve thingy, I
wonder if that might have anything to do with it. I have a new manifold to
head gasket. Could the head bolts allready need re-tourquing? Perhaps the
manifold to head bolts need to be tighter (I looked and could not find the
torque specs for these particular bolts). Are there any "tricks" I missed?
Has anybody played with a similar problem? Thanks...
Joe Ankeny

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Mon, 10 Nov 1997 10:39:21 -0500
Subject: Re: Unleaded Gas in a IIA

I've been running Mr. Churchill on unleaded for 40K miles and there'vwe
been no overt signs of valve recession. We'll see when I pull the head the
end of this week, though.

Consensus of opinion here from the high-mileage crowd has been don't sweat
it till you need a valve job, then go Stellite.

If it makes you feel better, use lead substitute...

                         ajr

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Nov 1997 10:46:24 -0500 (EST)
From: kelliott@intranet.ca (Keith Elliott)
Subject: Re: My truck sounds like a hog

Hi Joe...

   Did you happen to take the intake off the exhaust? I have the same
problem and the reason is that the exhaust leaks from between the two
manifolds, eventually I am going to get a new exhaust manifold and solve the
problem.

TTYL
Keith
1961 Series II 88"
Ottawa

>I really need advice. I sent the head from my 63 2.25 to the machine shop
>to be cleaned and for new valves to be installed. I've put it back in place
>on the engine. When the truck is running its really really loud, just like
>a Harley. I've double checked the three bolts from the exhaust manifold to
>the pipe. They seem allright. I examined the manifold itself for cracks and
>allthough I didn't go over it with a microscope I didn't see any problems.

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 18 lines)]
>Has anybody played with a similar problem? Thanks...
>Joe Ankeny

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Nov 1997 17:03:23 -0100
From: Nicolas Staszak <nstaszak@nordnet.fr>
Subject: SUBMISSIONS

SUBMISSIONS

------------------------------

From: debrown@srp.gov
Date: 10 Nov 97 09:10:59 MST
Subject: Oil change interval - synthetic.

From:  David Brown - Graphics Specialist ~SRP~ e-mail: debrown@srp.gov
       PAB219 (602)236-3544 -  Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486
                                    Pers. E-mail: rovernut@hotmail.com
I am considering using synthetic oil. At what interval do you synthetic
users change your oil? How about you long term users, like with over 200,000
miles on your rigs, how are they holding up?

Thanks, Dave Brown

 Never give up your life for          #=======#         _____l___
 anything that death can take away.   |__|__|__\___    //__|__|__\___
                        -anonymous    | _|  |   |_ |}  \__ - ____ - _|}
                                      "(_)""""""(_)"      (_)    (_)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Nov 1997 17:27:10
From: Paul Wakefield <pwakefie@mail.esrin.esa.it>
Subject: Steering Relay. Not a gun but still a worthy projectile.

:From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
:Date: Sat, 8 Nov 1997 18:10:59 -0500
:Subject: Re: Steering Relay...
:
:The removal of a steering relay is a combination of brute force and finesse
:- a lot of the first and enough of the latter to keep from breaking
:something.

I don't know if I was just fortunate, but my dodgy relay (full of rust and
water) just slipped gently out from the chassis (frame). (ok, with the help
of a club hammer and lump of wood) It did however have some form of strange
whitemetal shim around it. Sort of an incomplete round thing that stopped
it rattling around in the hole. Anyway the new one went back in with it.
Hope it wasn't a S.P.O.T as the previous owner was the UK M.O.D. !

Just be careful of the 4 bolts ..... Zebedee is lurking inside.

Paul.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Nov 1997 11:34:39 -0500
From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Subject: Ramsey 8K winch for PTO

Refinished, cleaned, greased, ready to bolt in. Comes with drive shafts. 
Fits all series vehicles. Located in DC area. Email for more info.

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon,
'81 Honda Goldwing 1100 Standard:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

------------------------------

From: jhenrick@calpoly.edu
Date: Mon, 10 Nov 97 08:41:49 -0800
Subject: Alternator Help

I have a 1962 109 petrol on which a PO has added a Wrangler 120 amp
alternator with an external voltage regulator.  What he didn't do is
wire it back to the existing dynamo warning light on the dash or so it
would appear. Yes, I checked the bulb!  

>From previous discussions on the list, I gather that the correct lead
from the alternator is FIELD, that this goes to one side the warning
light and that the other side goes to the ignition.  Is this correct?

FIELD is labeled, but the wire runs directly (plug to plug) from the
alternator to the regulator.  Should I splice into the wire there or am
I overlooking the obvious and FIELD is used elsewhere in the circuit?

Much of the front of the loom has been rewired, but any suggestions
would be appreciated.

Thanks,

John

62 SIIA 109 currently PU 'Spanner'

please cc me directly, digestee.

------------------------------

From: AKBLACKLEY@aol.com
Date: Mon, 10 Nov 1997 11:44:54 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: M416 Pics

Chris: I dont have any pics handy, but I can take some. The trailer I wrote
about was US made by American Bantam in Pennsylvania. My neighbors uncle
worked there during WWII and owned the trailer originally. For that reason he
would (wont) sell it, so that started my search for a M416. Few years back
someone at a TARC (Toronto Area Rovers Club) meeting had one of these but
with British army lights etc. May have been British or Canadian. Lots of
these were supplied to the British with the MB jeep, as far as I know they
were all US made. There is a book out about US Army soft skin vehicles that I
browsed once at Barnes & Noble that had info both on the earlier trailer (T-3
I think) and the later M416. Cheers. Andy Blackley

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Nov 1997 17:59:38
From: Paul Wakefield <pwakefie@mail.esrin.esa.it>
Subject: LHD/RHD (definitely no LR or Gun content)

>> Subject: Re: Right Hand vs Left Hand
>>Did you know that "sinister" is derived from the latin term meaning
>>"left-handed".
>Yes, and "dextral" for right-handed.

I wondered where sinistra & destra (italian) came from :-)

Paul.

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Mon, 10 Nov 1997 11:53:21 -0500
Subject: Re: Alternator Help

No, you don't need to go after the Field line - there should be a terminal
on the regulator box that is specific to the warning lamp. Lucas regulators
work this way, and I believe most American stuff does too. Motorola
alternators on Volvos don, though - screwy pieces of junk.

What i'd do were I you is hunt up the schematic for the vehicle the
alternator came from and wire it as indicated, or make a call tot he local
dealership and pray you get someone with a higher-than-50 IQ.

                         ALan

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Nov 1997 18:10:57
From: Paul Wakefield <pwakefie@mail.esrin.esa.it>
Subject: Re: Brakes (lr content)

last post.

Ketil Kirkerud Elgethun <ketilk@a.sol.no> writes

>> How do you adjust for equal brake action afterwards?

>As you would adjust the brakes normally. One tip I got from a mechanic
>friend of mine is to adjust the brakes really tight - it should be difficult
>to turn the wheel by hand, but not _very_ hard. The reason for this is that
>the shoes, when new, needs to be 'bedded in' to the shape of the drum -
>this will happen a lot faster if you overadjust a bit.

Hmm, i'd say adjust them out until tight, to seat the shoes, then back off
until feeling just a touch of resistance. Saves all that expensive lining
wear !
Just re-adjust if necessary, but if your drums are scored that much, bin
them or have them skimmed.

My 0.02 Krona

Paul.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Nov 1997 12:33:43 -0500
From: David L Glaser <dlglaser@wam.umd.edu>
Subject: Unsubscribe

I wish i didn't have to do this....
My e-mail is screwy, I need to unsubscribe

Thanks

David glaser

------------------------------

From: reynoldsg@tfn.com
Date: Mon, 10 Nov 1997 12:13:50 -0500
Subject: Re: Boston area get together?

Jeff Goldman asked...

> Gotta ask. Just wondering if the Boston area list members will be 
> getting together again this coming Wednesday, it being the second 
> Wednesday of the month?

But of course :).  Here are the details:

Where: John Harvard's Brew House, Framingham, MA

When:  Wednesday, November 12 at 7:30

How to find us?  Whoever gets there first should make a reservation 
under BSROA.  My guess is that there'll be between 10 and 12 people 
there, so make a reservation for 12...

Unfortunately, I lost the emails with the directions to John 
Harvard's, but here goes :):

Take the Mass Pike to Route 30 (this is the first exit west of Rt. 
128) and is I exit 14 if I remember correctly.  Once you've paid your 
toll (which is usually the recommended procedure), stay to the right 
which will get you to Route 30.  Follow the signs for Shoppers World.  
Once you're on Route 30 headed towards Shoppers World, you'll pass a 
car dealership on the right and proceed through a traffic light.

At the next traffic light, take a left and John Harvard's will be the 
building with it's own parking lot as you enter the mall.

Hope to see many of you there!

Jeff Reynolds
1995 Beluga Black Discovery
Rovers North Roof Rack
4 Hella Rallye 4000's
1 Hella Work Lamp

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Nov 1997 11:46:54 -0600 (CST)
From: Uncle Roger <sinasohn@ricochet.net>
Subject: Re: old UK computer

At 10:39 PM 11/7/97, you wrote:
>Uncle Roger why would you want to ship old computers from the UK? I suppose
 
Why?  Why do we all drive stinky, finicky, loud, gas guzzling british cars?
8^)  I never said I was normal.  Anyway, I collect computers, and there's a
guy who's got one I don't that would be next to impossible to find over
here.  At least it's a portable and not something like an IBM 360...

>ups.dhl etc. would be the way to go.
 
Okay.  THanks!

Uncle Roger                       "There is pleasure pure in being mad
sinasohn@ricochet.net                        that none but madmen know."
Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates
San Francisco, California                  http://www.crl.com/~sinasohn/

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Nov 1997 10:21:33 -0800
From: "Christopher H. Dow" <dow@thelen.org>
Subject: Wiper Motor Conversion Info

[I've also posted this to Mendo, so I hope that those of you on both
list will accept my apology]

I've put up a page with the info about my conversion from the old-style
dual motor setup to the newer single-motor setup.  If you're interested,
check it out at http://www.thelen.org/lrwiper.html  It's also accessible
from my main LR page at http://www.thelen.org/LandRover.html

The only thing I've not been able to do is make the damned thing park. 
The wiper page describes the process I went through to figure out what
was what, so if you notice any flaws in that process, PLEASE let me
know.

Thanks,
C

------------------------------

From: "Huub Pennings" <HPS@fs1-kfih.azr.nl>
Date: Mon, 10 Nov 1997 20:16:08 +0100
Subject:       Hydraulic

What kind off oil should I use to top off my "new" hydraulic jack???

(bought at the local scrapyard for 7 $)
Regards,

Huub Pennings

e-mail adress
Pennings@kfih.azr.nl

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Mon, 10 Nov 1997 14:33:54 -0500
Subject: Re: Hydraulic

Easy - any motor factor carries hydraulic oil for such a purpose. Failing
that I'd go no more than a straight SAE10 non-detergent oil...

          aj"Used both at one time or another..."r

------------------------------

From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Subject: Paint codes, Steering 
Date: Mon, 10 Nov 1997 11:49:23 -0800

Hi all,

The Rover sits in the garage with the bonnet, wings & rad panel
(breakfast) removed.  For anyone doing major front end work, I would
highly recommend removing these panels as it makes it sooo much easier
to gain access to the innards.

While examining everything down there, I noticed that the turning angle
of the beast is unequal left to right.  It turns much sharper to the
left than to the right.  There is not much free-play to speak of and the
stop bolts are set right.  The only bit that looks out of alignment is
the upper arm of the steering relay with respect to the lower arm.  When
looking down at the relay, the angle between the upper & lower arms is
greater than 90 degrees.  If the lower arm is pointing straight ahead,
the upper arm is pointing slightly aft of abeam.  Should these arms be
90 deg. wrt each other?  Should I pop off the upper arm and realign
them?

Second question:
I'm pretty sure that the original colour of the beast was sand, dupont
code 38502.  No-one in town seems to have the formula to mix this in
enamel (one place had the formula for lacquer)  Does anyone know if
there is a more modern equivalent, or a source for this colour?

Tx. 
Paul Quin
1961 Series II 88
Victoria, BC  Canada

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Nov 1997 19:29:47 +0100
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Subject: Is there a geologist in the house?

Calling all geologists and mining engineers!

This must be my entry for "non LR content of the week" - but at the risk
of being declared definatly off-off-off-off-topic, here goes.

In connection with my work as a journalist - I need a quick cramming
session on basic mining technology - three or four paragraphs on the
essential principles of refining mineral ore to metals - not placers but
lode deposits. I have not staked a claim - I just need a briefing!

I am sure that I remember there being at least one rock-crusher on this
list - but I cannot remember who he/she is - any offers?

Replies to my e-mail to save bandwidth and irritation to that monority
who prefer to discuss land rovers and only land rovers here - sorry
chaps!

Adrian Redmond

---------------------------------------------------
CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
---------------------------------------------------
telephone (office)		    +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)		    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data                +45 86 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)		    +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)                  +45 40 54 22 66
mobile NMT			    +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail			     channel6@post2.tele.dk
HoTMaiL (www.e-mail)	channel6denmark@hotmail.com
---------------------------------------------------
Visit our homepages!                www.channel6.dk
---------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Nov 1997 15:36:40 -0500
From: The Bickertons <Bickerton@compuserve.com>
Subject: carbon buildup: DONT WATER IT!

Nooooooo! For Gods sake (and for your engine's) dont try to steam off
carbon build up
by pouring water in. Carbon is not water soluble, although the iron bores=

are. Also,
different bits will contract by being cooled, and I don't think the pisto=
ns
will rattle!
If you have, be gentle with it for a while. Limit yourself to roof-deep
puddles and 80degree
slopes for now!

John Bickerton
Derbyshire, UK

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Nov 1997 15:36:49 -0500
From: The Bickertons <Bickerton@compuserve.com>
Subject: petrol engine redline, diesel handthrottle + more

Just a couple of things,

What does the 2.25 petrol (a la SII, IIA, III) redline at?
I appreciate this will practially change with age, condition, etc.
Around 7000rpm has been suggested before; does anyone know?

On my fathers SWB III diesel, the handthrottle only lets the unit tickove=
r
at over halfway
across. Is this out of adjustment? When cold, fully open just keeps it
happy.
If it is wrong, how can I adjust it?

Whats the difference: helical and helicoidal. Except where they are fitte=
d
(front/back of 110).

How much (english dosh) is a SIII 6-cyl gearbox worth? I'm thinking of
selling mine!

Any help would be brill!

John Bickerton,
Derbyshire, UK

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Nov 1997 15:53:45 -0500
From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Subject: Re: petrol engine redline, diesel handthrottle + more

Your hand throttle is way out of adjustment.

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon,
'81 Honda Goldwing 1100 Standard:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

------------------------------

From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Subject: RE: petrol engine redline, diesel handthrottle + more
Date: Mon, 10 Nov 1997 13:02:00 -0800

I've been told that the practicle red line for a 2&1/4 litre should be
around 5000-5200 rpm.

Paul.

------------------------------

From: "Russell G. Dushin" <dushinrg@primail.pr.cyanamid.com>
Subject: Re: Paint Codes, Steering
Date: Mon, 10 Nov 97 16:22:13 EST

Paul Quin wrote:

***
While examining everything down there, I noticed that the turning angle
of the beast is unequal left to right.  It turns much sharper to the
left than to the right.  There is not much free-play to speak of and the
stop bolts are set right.  The only bit that looks out of alignment is
the upper arm of the steering relay with respect to the lower arm.  When
looking down at the relay, the angle between the upper & lower arms is
greater than 90 degrees.  If the lower arm is pointing straight ahead,
the upper arm is pointing slightly aft of abeam.  Should these arms be
90 deg. wrt each other?  Should I pop off the upper arm and realign
them?
***

If the wheels are straight ahead and the bottom lever is also, then
the top lever should be perfectly perpendicular.  If not, then
adjust the top lever so that it is perpendicular.

If the wheels are not straight ahead when the bottom lever is straight
ahead (and the two levers are not perpendicular), then you need 
to adjust your track rod and move the lower lever.

Only caveat here is that there is the outside chance that both the
top lever on the relay and the lever on the steering box are offset
from where they belong....not too likely, but...double check to see that
with the lower lever off, half way to lock to lock positions on the
steering wheel position the top lever at the desired perpendicular
position (above), more or less.

Do your best not to pries the levers apart to spread them, but rather
to work it off from behind if at all possible...or use a small puller...
your life is at stake here and you don't want these bits to break
some day.

and,
***
Second question:
I'm pretty sure that the original colour of the beast was sand, dupont
code 38502.  No-one in town seems to have the formula to mix this in
enamel (one place had the formula for lacquer)  Does anyone know if
there is a more modern equivalent, or a source for this colour?
***

according to the FAQ, some Dupont paint codes for sand are:

(from http://www.off-road.com/LR_FAQ/Series/FAQ.S.paint.3.html)

Dupont: 38502 or ACF/004 or 26291

(but they sure as hell ain't easy to find on that site...Hey, Dixon,Ben-
how's about a search feature or maybe a little better indexing???? Get
to work, eh??  I mean, you got this thing pretty much complete for nuthin',
didn't ya????  Takin' all this credit yet doin' none of the work....just
runnin' right off with the thing...)

Alternatively, you could always paint it Green.  I hear it's a real
popular color these days....

rd/nige/mr.plow/redrover/daRoach 

------------------------------

From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Subject: RE: Paint Codes, Steering
Date: Mon, 10 Nov 1997 13:33:09 -0800

Russel says:
If the wheels are straight ahead and the bottom lever is also, then
the top lever should be perfectly perpendicular.  If not, then
adjust the top lever so that it is perpendicular

	I think that it's the top lever that's out.  Thanks...

>>according to the FAQ, some Dupont paint codes for sand are:

(from http://www.off-road.com/LR_FAQ/Series/FAQ.S.paint.3.html)
Dupont: 38502 or ACF/004 or 26291<<<

That's where I got my code from but none of the supply shops seem to be
able to replicate it. ;-(

Paul.

(from http://www.off-road.com/LR_FAQ/Series/FAQ.S.paint.3.html)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Nov 1997 16:39:19 -0500 (EST)
From: pscales@blvl.igs.net (P.S.)
Subject: Repsonse from a Colonial

>...about buying Rover stuff in England...

        I was in England two weeks ago, and bought some parts...

>I ) Bring LOTS of money.

        Without really thinking about it, I spent $450 Cdn.

>2) Be prepared for incidental expenses...

        At one point, I took a taxi from my hotel in Swindon to the huge
Sodbury Sort-Out.  On the map, the distance didn't look great.  Cost: $52.
I also spent a whack of cash on phone calls, trying to track down the best
deals.  Fortunately, I'd done a lot of price shopping from Canada, by
Internet, so I was mentally prepared for some of the prices.

>6) Plan when you come over to coincide with one of the big Rover events.
>Sodbury was AMAZING, More on that later. :-)

        Two of us went to Sodbury on Oct 25th, and I did pretty well.
Bought a complete set of Series II leaf springs (only slightly rusty) for
under $100 Cdn, vice $550 Cdn from a Canadian dealer in Quebec.  I think the
best deals (and there were many) were on rubber items like shift boots.
Took plenty of photos.  Talked to lots of Landy owners (there were about 200
vendors and thousands of shoppers).  And got a ride back to the hotel from
the Land Rover dealer nearest me!  

        The next Sodbury Sort-Out is in March 1998.  Phone 01454 321010.

Peter
1959 Series II diesel
Trenton, Ontario

------------------------------

From: JSmallals@aol.com
Date: Mon, 10 Nov 1997 16:41:10 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Need help with heater motor bearing...

Hello all,
Have a 66IIA with Kodiak heater, recently the bearing in my blower motor is
making a grinding sound...probably doesn't have much life left...can the
bearing in the motor be changed, or do I need to find a new blower motor???
 If it can be changed, does anyone know of a good source for a replacement???
 Also, is it a difficult job???
It is getting cold in Denver, and the thought of no heater makes me cringe...
thanks, 
James Small
Denver, Colorado
66IIA SWB SW

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Nov 1997 13:59:47 -0800
From: "Christopher H. Dow" <dow@thelen.org>
Subject: Re: petrol engine redline, diesel handthrottle + more

Jim Allen (who usually has significant amounts of experimental data to
back up his claims) has mentioned 4500 as the max you'd want to rev the
Rover 2.25 petrol.

C

Paul Quin wrote:
8<

> I've been told that the practicle red line for a 2&1/4 litre should be
> around 5000-5200 rpm.
> Paul.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Nov 1997 13:54:24 +0800
From: "O Z Z I E   H E R N A E Z" <ozzieh@skyinet.net>
Subject: Lumenition

Improvement , like big time, when I removed my distributor prior to fitting=
 the lumenition
I notice that it had some slop.  Anyway I drove far enough the past day to=
 do an
initial fuel economy test.  For a short 30 mile Asian city traffic drive ,=
 I got 12 miles
per gallon ( 5 k/l ), that is with the airconditioning full blast.  I use=
 to only get about
9 miles per gallon ( less than 4 k / l ). The local mechanics refused to=
 learn how to
tune-up the Ducellier distributor , me I find it difficult to tune. Anyway=
 Filipinos also
do not use coolant ( resulting in corrosion) and just love to remove=
 thermostats.
Interesting FIY.  I actually bought coolant at Pep Boys in LA , they=
 currently don't
stock it here in Cebu , Phil.  So I'll check on my mileage again in several=
 days.

Ozzie
1984 Land Rover SIII 88" petrol.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Nov 1997 16:26:52 -0600 (CST)
From: Uncle Roger <sinasohn@ricochet.net>
Subject: Re: Shipping 'cross the pond (no gun content)

At 06:37 PM 11/9/97 -0500, you wrote:
>Cheapest way to send a computer over, would most likely be UPS. If you go
>through a freight forwarder, you'll get hit with charges for clearing
>Customs. UPS does this too, but they only charge about $6.00, whle a
>forwarder/broker can charge upto $200.00!

Ouch!  Sounds like UPS is the way to go; with DHL as maybe a second choice.
(Don't need overnight service on a 20-year-old computer!  8^)

>Also note, if the computer costs more than (I believe) $1500.00, a formal
>Entry with Customs is required. Thus, in this case, at least a Customs Broker
>should be listed as the consignee, or notify party, on the airwaybill.
 
Nope.  Cost of shipping plus a coupla quid for his trouble.  (One of the
nice things about collecting old computers as opposed to, say, diamonds or
ex-wives. 8^)

Uncle Roger                       "There is pleasure pure in being mad
sinasohn@ricochet.net                        that none but madmen know."
Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates
San Francisco, California                  http://www.crl.com/~sinasohn/

------------------------------

Date: 	Mon, 10 Nov 1997 10:36:35 -1000
From: Wayne Haight <whaight@hawaii.edu>
Subject: Series IIA wipers

Aloha,

Are the wipers on my 1970 Series IIA supposed to return to the "rest"
position after I turn off the switch? They never have since I bought my
Landie a year ago. If they are supposed to return, what adjustments can
I make to get them to return?
-- 
Wayne R. Haight
Senior Fisheries Research Specialist
Joint Institute for Marine and Atmospheric Research
2570 Dole Street
Honolulu, Hawaii 96822

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Nov 1997 14:55:40 -0800
From: "Christopher H. Dow" <dow@thelen.org>
Subject: Re: Series IIA wipers

Wayne Haight wrote:
> Are the wipers on my 1970 Series IIA supposed to return to the "rest"
> position after I turn off the switch? 

The Series IIA manual shows power going to the wiper switch and to a
spade on the motor connector (into the motor wiring harness, which I
don't have) bot via a green wire.  I conclude that since power is
_always_ going to this connector, it is the park connector.  On my
motor, however, it did nothing.

> They never have since I bought my Landie a year ago. If they are 
> supposed to return, what adjustments can I make to get them to return?
You might want to check that power is always going to one of the wires
in your harness, and if it is, then look for an open down-current from
there.

C

------------------------------

From: "Lowe, Dave J" <LoweDJ@BP.com>
Subject: RE: Need help with heater motor bearing...
Date: Mon, 10 Nov 1997 17:56:41 -0500

Take your motor out, and go down to your local parts dealer like NAPA.
They can look in the book based upon shaft size and length and come up
with a good replacement motor for around $35 that normally fits a US
brand..  Make sure you get the high speed, high output, motor that is
for airconditioned applications.  This motor will really put out the air
when you wake up on those cold Denver mornings.  I have done this for
friends Smith heater and it works here in Anchorage.  I have looked at
my Kodiak heat and think it too could be adapted to a US model such a
Suburban Blower motor.  When my Kodiak heater conks out that is my plan.
> ----------
> From: 	JSmallals@aol.com[SMTP:JSmallals@aol.com]
> Reply To: 	lro@playground.sun.com
> Sent: 	Monday, November 10, 1997 12:41 PM
> To: 	lro@playground.sun.com
> Subject: 	Need help with heater motor bearing...

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 27 lines)]
> Denver, Colorado
> 66IIA SWB SW

------------------------------

From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Mon, 10 Nov 1997 18:29:51 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Wiper Motor Conversion Info

In a message dated 97-11-10 13:25:49 EST, you write:

<< The only thing I've not been able to do is make the damned thing park.  >>

Hi Chris,

This park thing (no parking) happens if the switch is put in on the power
side instead of the ground side.  If the switch is on the ground side, the
power will ground through the park circuit when you turn off the switch.

Experience speaking,

Nate

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Nov 1997 16:32:20 -0800
From: "Christopher H. Dow" <dow@thelen.org>
Subject: Re: Wiper Motor Conversion Info

NADdMD@aol.com wrote:
8<
> << The only thing I've not been able to do is make the damned thing 
>    park.  >>
8<
> This park thing (no parking) happens if the switch is put in on the 
> power side instead of the ground side.  If the switch is on the ground 
> side, the power will ground through the park circuit when you turn off 
> the switch.

Whoah.  That's not how I remember the diagram, but I could be wrong.

> Experience speaking,

If you hadn't said that, I'd say you were smoking crack.  However, since
you are speaking from experience, and you've never led me astray, I'm
listening.

So, are you saying that the connections look like this:
        
       -1- 
     |     |
     2     3
     |     |

     |     |
     4     5
     |     |

     Where:

	1 gets power
	5 is always grounded
	4 grounds when 'slow' is selected
	2 grounds when 'fast' is selected

So, the part of my brain that understands electricity wonders "Why does
the motor care which way the current flows?"

C
scratching head...

C

------------------------------

From: Solihull@aol.com
Date: Mon, 10 Nov 1997 19:40:06 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Looking for Brian Davies

I've been trying to call Brian Davies for several days with no success. He
has a grey-market RR I'm *very* interested in. Anyone in the northeast
atlantic seaboard area, who knows him, please send me a note.
He lives in Connecticut, which I understand is a suburb of NYC.
TIA!!
Cheers!!
John Dillingham
near Canton, GA
KF4NAS     LROA #1095
73 s3 swb 25902676b DD "Pansy"
72 s3 swb 25900502a rusted, in suspended animation
Looking for a P5 project, well, OK, or a P6 or another SD1
Vintage Rover Service, since 1994, where we say:
Land Rovers for Agriculture!
Land Rovers for Industry!
Land Rovers for Recreation!
Land Rovers forever!! D.V.

------------------------------

From: Solihull@aol.com
Date: Mon, 10 Nov 1997 19:43:48 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Need Scotty's number

A few days ago, I asked the list if anyone remembered who had a chevy six and
adapter they weren't planning to use. I guess no one did. Could someone
please email me Scotty's phone number? I was going to call them right away,
but most of my Aluminum Workhorses are in storage.
TIA, ya'll!!
Cheers!!
John Dillingham
near Canton, GA
KF4NAS     LROA #1095
73 s3 swb 25902676b DD "Pansy"
72 s3 swb 25900502a rusted, in suspended animation
Looking for a P5 project, well, OK, or a P6 or another SD1
Vintage Rover Service, since 1994, where we say:
Land Rovers for Agriculture!
Land Rovers for Industry!
Land Rovers for Recreation!
Land Rovers forever!! D.V.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Nov 1997 20:42:11 -0400
From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Need help with heater motor bearing...

JSmallals@aol.com wrote:
> Hello all,
> Have a 66IIA with Kodiak heater, recently the bearing in my blower motor is
> making a grinding sound...probably doesn't have much life left...can the
> bearing in the motor be changed, or do I need to find a new blower motor???
>  If it can be changed, does anyone know of a good source for a replacement???
>  Also, is it a difficult job???
> It is getting cold in Denver, and the thought of no heater makes me cringe...
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 13 lines)]
> Denver, Colorado
> 66IIA SWB SW
The Kodiak heater was built on this side of the pond and dealer fitted
so you should find a US made motor to fit. I got mine from a GM of some
sort I took the old one to the wreckers and matched with one on his
shelf  $10.  I have improved the performance of Smiths heaters by
installing both the motor and the fan cage from a GM. It was larger so I
made the hole larger with tin snips and used the GM mounting plate
also set a little offset. This does make a large difference in the
volume of air.
        John and Muddy

------------------------------

From: "Dani K.A. Mansjoer" <dani-net@indo.net.id>
Subject: Sallisbury axle diff change
Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 08:21:23 +0700

My SIII 109 equiped with V8-3.5l engine and rear Sallisbury axle is fitted
with 4.71 
gear diff.  I would change it to 3.54 gear diff. for better fuel economy. 
Is it an easy 
job to do (just change the crown and pinion gears) or I will need
additional parts or special tools?
Can anyone advise me? thanks.

Dani Mansjoer
Bogor - Indonesia 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Nov 1997 21:34:29 -0400
From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Sallisbury axle diff change

Dani K.A. Mansjoer wrote:
> My SIII 109 equiped with V8-3.5l engine and rear Sallisbury axle is fitted
> with 4.71
> gear diff.  I would change it to 3.54 gear diff. for better fuel economy.
> Is it an easy
> job to do (just change the crown and pinion gears) or I will need
> additional parts or special tools?
> Can anyone advise me? thanks.
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 12 lines)]
> Dani Mansjoer
> Bogor - Indonesia
you will need to change the front diff also
   John and Muddy

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Nov 1997 22:16:14 -0500
From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com>
Subject: Ron Franklin - personal

Hello,

Are you involved with both Land Rovers and sea kayaking? We were
visiting friends in Cushing, Maine this past weekend, and I mentioned
that a fellow on the LRO list named Ron Franklin, who lives in Bowdoin,
had a SII Land Rover he was interested in selling. Their response was
"We know Ron Franklin!" Their names are Ben and Leslie Fuller, and they
know a Ron Franklin around Bowdoin who is a sea kayaker. Are you the
same Ron Franklin?

Regards,
David Cockey
Rochester, Michigan

(Apologies for using LRO to send a personal note, but I keep getting
this message bounced back with a diagnostic message:

Final-Recipient: RFC822; oldhaven@mail.biddeford.com
Action: failed
Status: 5.0.0
Remote-MTA: DNS; mail.biddeford.com
Diagnostic-Code: SMTP; 551 <dcockey@tir.com>... We don't accept junk
mail
Last-Attempt-Date: Mon, 10 Nov 1997 22:15:03 -0500 (EST)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Nov 1997 22:26:41 -0500
From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com>
Subject: Ron Franklin - personal(2)

Ron,

Do you have a phone number, or the name and location, of your internet
service provider. They refuse to accept any mail from me. I haven't had
this problem before.

Regards,
David Cockey

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Nov 1997 22:45:32 -0500 (EST)
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Nov. LROI issue

Barrie wrote:

>Jim we at the post office would not delay delivery of a magazine just to
>read it.  It must have gotten misrouted.

I doubt it.  I don't know *anyone* who has gotten the November LRO.  It's at 
least three weeks late....

      *---"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                  | 
      |     Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |
      |   "The oldest Rover-marque club in the Americas"   |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730    |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 757-622-7054 (Day) |
      |    757-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 757-622-7056    |
      |                                                    |
      *---1972 Series III 88"-----1996 Discovery SE-7(m)---*

------------------------------

From: CIrvin1258@aol.com
Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 00:08:27 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: workhorse of the world

"Having spent 2200+ hours in RC-130's, and EC-130's..."

Mike,
were you stationed in Frankfurt, by any chance?

Charles

------------------------------

From: "FHYap" <FHYap@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Nov. LROI issue
Date: Mon, 10 Nov 1997 20:38:20 -0800

> I doubt it.  I don't know *anyone* who has gotten the November LRO.  It's
at 
> least three weeks late....

I "normally" don't get mine until the middle of the month.  I am on the
west coast.  From what I've read, l believe people on the east coast get
theirs earlier.

The local Barnes & Noble has LRW by the first week of the month (sometimes
earlier) but LROI usually appears towards the end of the month.

Frank

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Nov 1997 23:57:34 -0600
From: car4doc <car4doc@concentric.net>
Subject: Re: Rochester Model B update.

Hi John,
 Thanks for the warning.  I had NGK plugs before & don't have a number
for the champion plug(which seem to like british cars). Can you past
along the number for me?

Regards, 
Rob Davis_chicago

------------------------------

From: "Richard Marsden"<rmarsden@digicon-egr.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 09:07:01 +0000
Subject: Re: Nov. LROI issue

Over here, its been out weeks! :-)

The competition have the next month's issue out - complete with *their*
review of the Freeloader (rather what LR tell them).
As to be expected, they rave about it, but with a few niggling little
things (central locking control, driver's glovebox [should be called a
"gasket and plier shelf" IMO],etc) and they don't like the petrol version.

There, now you don't have to buy the mag, and wade through 10+ pages of
"review"! :-)

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)

FHYap@ix.netcom.com on 11/11/97 04:38:20 AM

Please respond to lro@playground.sun.com

cc:    (bcc: Richard Marsden/EAME/VDGC)

Subject:  Re: Nov. LROI issue

> I doubt it.  I don't know *anyone* who has gotten the November LRO.  It's
at
> least three weeks late....
I "normally" don't get mine until the middle of the month.  I am on the
west coast.  From what I've read, l believe people on the east coast get
theirs earlier.
The local Barnes & Noble has LRW by the first week of the month (sometimes
earlier) but LROI usually appears towards the end of the month.
Frank

------------------------------

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