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Date: Sat, 08 Nov 1997 12:17:40 -0500
From: Olafur Agust Axelsson <olafura@rhi.hi.is>
Subject: Fuel-outlet-pipe  AGAIN

Hi All

	I posted a while ago a question about a fuel-pump on my S3 Diesel - I
found a part-shop that sells a fitting that has one end that fits the pump
and another that I can fit the fuel-hose on - But Im still wondering why
there are TWO hoses to be fitted - and how they are to be fitted There is
one hose reaching from the fuel filter bowl and the other from the base of
the fuel-distributor.

	The thing is that the fuel pump was out of the LR when I got it and the
hoses had been cutted thru - I dont have any experience with Diesel LR=B4s s=
o
if any of you have a clue how this is suppose to come together I would
appreciate it!!

Thanx

Olafur Agust 

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
olafura@hi.is		http://www.hi.is/~olafura

Entropy isn=B4t what it used to be!!
			--UNIX

------------------------------

From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Sat, 8 Nov 1997 08:36:55 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Smith's heater switch

In a message dated 97-11-08 07:02:14 EST, Quintin so elegantly writes:

<< I hate to say this but with the massive output of the smiths heater the
slow
 fan settings are useless. Just put in an on-off switch for the blower and be
 done with it.  >>

This is exactly what I did and I have no regrets.  Even full on, it barely
keeps the passenger warm. (Actually, it does pretty well when the pickup top
is on).  FWIW, I used a illuminated switch so I can see it at night to turn
it off, if the truck's getting too hot :P

Nate

------------------------------

From: AKBLACKLEY@aol.com
Date: Sat, 8 Nov 1997 10:11:40 -0500 (EST)
Subject: M416 Behind a SIIA

John Putnam asked about these trailers behind a SIIA. I got my trailer when I
still had my old IIA, and it pulled it very easily. These trailers roll very
nicely, you can pick it up by the tongue (ouch!) and manhandle it around the
yard or driveway. They have a folding leg on the tongue and a hand brake
which makes moving them a little easier too - you dont have to pick the thing
up off the deck and break your back. I have hauled some heavy loads in mine
and in order to uncouple it from the pintle hitch while still loaded I will
set the hand brake on the trailer and use the high lift jack to lift it off
the hitch. Cheers. Andy Blackley

------------------------------

From: AKBLACKLEY@aol.com
Date: Sat, 8 Nov 1997 10:17:38 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Fwd: M-416 Pintle hook

I posted this to the RRO list by mistake. Might be more germain here. 
---------------------
Forwarded message:
Subj:    Re: M-416 Pintle hook
Date:    97-11-07 17:40:26 EST
From:    AKBLACKLEY
CC:      rro@land-rover.team.net

Rick: The attachment typically used for these trailers is a "pintle hook",
common to military vehicles, construction equipment etc. You can find them at
a good hardware/farm implements store, JC Whitney catalog, Northern Equip.
catalog etc. for about $70 for the common garden variety, or you can use the
actual NATO type , which has the added feature that it can rotate. I dont
know who exactly sells these, Rovers North might have them used, or perhaps a
surplus dealer. Several years back there was an amusing article by Myles
Murphy in the Aluminium Workhorse describing what happened when an overloaded
Sankey trailer flipped and rotated itself upside down, due to the NATO hitch,
which might have been a BAD accident, but luckily wasnt. He thought that if
it didnt have the rotating feature it would have caused his Lightweight to
flip over too.
Anyway, I use the "garden variety" type mainly because it was free (thanks
dad, I hope you dont miss it). This is then bolted to a flat plate with box
section welded at the bottom to fit into the 2 inch receiver on my RR. There
is about 5 or 6 inches between the centerline of the box receiver and the
hitch, which raises the hitch to the height proscribed on the trailer data
plate ( about 22 inches, I dont remember exactly, its cold and raining out
right now, so I'll look tomorrow). I put two large eyebolts in the base of
the plate to secure the hooks of the safety chains on the trailer, and I
replaced the 24V lights with regular trailer lights and a hardware store
trailer plug connector. I have used it off road with camping gear, brush,
etc. and even without rotating on the pintle it still has a lot of
articulation. My neighbor has an old version of this trailer that someone
converted to a standard ball hitch, so thats possible too. I like the pintle
hitch though, and I leave it in the receiver most times. Keeps tailgaters at
a more respectful distance. Cheers. Andy Blackley

------------------------------

From: Deezilbob@aol.com
Date: Sat, 8 Nov 1997 10:39:08 -0500 (EST)
Subject: workhorse of the world

seems to me that C-130's and Land-Rovers do have a common bond, that they are
both referred to as "the workhorse of the world". both are old technology
(late 40's and early 50's), both have been adapted for multi-capabilities,
neither one needs a hard tarmac to motor down, both are used more extensively
than any other all over the world, both are used by the military and
civilians, both are used for humanitarian relief purposes, both are often
seen painted in camo, etc., also lets not forget that the C-130 will carry
2-3 Land-Rovers at a time for "heavy-drop". i was stationed in Mainz, W.Ger.
in an airborne brigade, (69-70) often time we would train (and enjoy a little
bubbly) with british para's, great bunch. sadly, i didn't know about rovers
back then.......

------------------------------

From: "Steve Stoneham" <stoneham@kos.net>
Subject: Espn II Land Rover Trek
Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2097 11:18:26 -0500
[digester: Removing section of:  Content-Type: multipart/alternative; ]
	charset="iso-8859-1"

I'm not sure if it's been mentioned here but Espn II will have taped =
coverage of the Land Rover Trek from Manchester,Vermont this Sunday at =
4:00pm.
Regards,
Steve

------=_NextPart_000_0008_022D09B0.5A4B1700
	[ Original post was HTML ]
	charset="iso-8859-1"

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.71.1712.3"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>I'm not sure if it's been mentioned =
here but
Espn II will have taped coverage of the Land Rover Trek from =
Manchester,Vermont
this Sunday at 4:00pm.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT><FONT =
size=3D2>Regards,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Steve</FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_0008_022D09B0.5A4B1700--

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 08 Nov 1997 13:41:04
From: James Wolf <J.Wolf@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Gen. brushes

>Subject: Generator Brushes
>Aloha,
>My charge light is coming on intermitently (on for a while off for a
>while, etc.) so I suspect its time to replace the generator brushes.
>I have a 1970 Series IIA and the generator I believe is a Lucas C40.
>Are there common replacement brushes that I could get at a local parts

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 11 lines)]
>store? I would like to use my landie this weekend and would prefer not
>to wait for mail-order

You can get these gennies at Ford tracter dealers, some also carry parts.
The cost new with core is about $80.00.

Jim Wolf
1966 109 sw "Vicky tm"

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 08 Nov 1997 13:29:44
From: James Wolf <J.Wolf@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: K&N filter, etc.        

>Firdtly, I own two British vehicles. A RHD Land Rover and a LHD MGB.

Ok, I give up. What is a "firdtly" 8^)?

L/R content. Today I picked up my K&N air filter for my Rochester carb. It
fits great.
For those who are interested, model# RA-0620, 2and9/16" base, 5.5" dia.,2"
high. Things are progressing but they are going slowly, it doesn't help
that the house was built before the last millinum (sp), and always needs
something doing.

Jim Wolf
1966 109 sw "Vicky tm"

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 08 Nov 1997 13:31:52 -0500
From: Doug Tully <dtully@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Hauling

Does anyone know of any freight companies that ship privately owned
autos, specifically Colorado to New Jersey?  A train is much chaper than
turck hauling.

Thanks

--
Doug Tully
dtully@ix.netcom.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 08 Nov 1997 13:32:09 -0500
From: Doug Tully <dtully@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Hauling

Does anyone know of any freight companies that ship privately owned
autos, specifically Colorado to New Jersey?  A train is much cheaper
than truck hauling.

Thanks

--
Doug Tully
dtully@ix.netcom.com

------------------------------

From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Sat, 8 Nov 1997 14:44:01 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Shipping 'cross the pond (no gun content)

In a message dated 97-11-08 13:46:34 EST, you write:

<< I thought those who have shipped Land
 Rover (<-- LR content!) parts over might have some suggestions as to who is
 good and cheap. >>

I think good and cheap may be mutually exclusive.  However, DHL shipped 2
wings (SII style with inner, front and top panels) in their original wooden
crates (dated 1972) for 110 pounds.  Not cheap but then again, the wooden
crates were probably 1 1/2 times the weight of the wings.  Delivered in good
style and tariffs covered.

Nate

------------------------------

From: ASFCO@worldnet.att.net
Subject: Re: Hauling
Date: Sat, 8 Nov 1997 20:54:35 +0000

At 06:32 PM 11/8/97 +0000, you wrote:
>Does anyone know of any freight companies that ship privately owned
>autos, specifically Colorado to New Jersey? 

Look in Hemmings Motor News for companies that specialize in auto transport.
There are always several ads in there.
The one that comes to mind is Horseless Carriage Transport I see them in NY
all the time
Hope this helps

>Does anyone know of any freight companies that ship privately owned
>autos, specifically Colorado to New Jersey? 

Rgds
Steve Bradke       96 Discovery
WA2GMC             72 S lll 88 (For Sale)
                   68 S lla 88                 

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 8 Nov 1997 13:44:55 -0800 (PST)
From: hstin@cts.com (The Brothers Stinson)
Subject: Steering Relay...

Hello,
        I have been working on the removal of the steering Relay from my
Series III SWB for about four days now.  I've used heat from a propane
torch, and a hammer and have not moved it an inch.  Are there any other
tricks list members may have tried to remove this infernal part?  I've also
tried to force it out with a hydraulic jack but quickly stopped when I
noticed I was infact jacking up the Rover.  It has become clear to me my
hammer just isn't going to get the job done.  Thanks in advance... Later.

                                                        Hank Stinson
                                                      SWB SIII Curmudgeon
                             

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 08 Nov 1997 18:46:59
From: James Wolf <J.Wolf@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Nov. LROI issue

Has anyone rec'd the Nov. issue of LROI? My sub. should be good until 6-98,
maybe it's to early. I have already gotten the Nov. issue of LRW at Barnes
and Noble, suppose I should check to see if they have it yet. Maybe the
postperson 8^) has gotten a Landy and wants to read it first.

Jim Wolf
1966 109 sw "Vicky tm"

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Sat, 8 Nov 1997 18:10:59 -0500
Subject: Re: Steering Relay...

The removal of a steering relay is a combination of brute force and finesse
- a lot of the first and enough of the latter to keep from breaking
something.

Personally, I'd suggest a drill - drill through the front of the
crossmember and the inner tube till you hit the relay housing, then with a
plastic feed straw flood the inside of the relay tube with a good
penetrating oil. This will help, as will flooding the top section.

Let it perk through, then get on the bottom of the relay tube (NOT THE
SHAFT!!!) with a hydraulic jack, using a section of heavy-wall pipe as a
mandrel,and start pushing.

Get a good part of the Rover's weight on it, then hamer the crap out of the
top of the immediate frame area (using a block to avoid denting) till it
moves a bit. Jack it up and hammer it down - work at it steadily.

Or - do what I did and rebuild the realy in place. Takes 2 hours, works
fine, and saves a shitload of work. If you want to do that take a look at
my section on the OVLR Web site and there's a detailed write-up on it.

                    Alan R/Mr. Churchill (the one and only!)

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 8 Nov 1997 17:06:04 -0800 (PST)
From: davery@on-ramp.ior.com (Dale W. Avery)
Subject: Weber one barrel carb fixes

I had to run through my state smog-nazi inspection the end of October.  Poor
Tigger was putting out way too many hydrocarbons whilst running at 2,500
rpm.  I also noticed that there was a gas stain around the center of the
carb where the top and bottom halves come together.

The fix was very simple.  I had the fuel pressure regulator that I had
installed earlier set at 3.5 psi.  I turned it down to 1.5 psi.  This is
well below the 4 - 4.5 psi the mechanical fuel pump wants to deliver.  I
also cleaned the jets and internal fuel screen, and replaced the gasket
between the two carburator halves.  The engine now runs clean as a whistle
and passed the smog inspection with ease.  A call to Pierce Manifold for
some parts confirmed my suspicions.  The one barrel 34 ICH Weber should have
no more than 2 - 2.5 psi fuel pressure.

I also have electronic ignition on the beastie.  This pretty well trashes
the ability to use the standard timing marks for adjusting the engine or
using the standard LR recommendations.  I found with my system, running by
ear, I get the best performance and gas mileage with the pulley marker tic
near the 12 o'clock position at 850 rpm's.  I had originally set it at the
recommended LR value but had no power and poor idle.  

Tigger will do 60-70 mph pretty easily with OD.  Actually, my preferred
speed is 55-60 mph on the highway.  It pulls very well up long hills also.
Slowest speed up a long upgrade here in the Rocky Mountains now is 45 mph
with two passengers and little or no load in back.  I can accept that.

Hope this helps anyone else having trouble with their Webers.  Stick with
it.  They are great once you get them figured out!  
-----
   Dale W. Avery KC7MM
   Tigger - '73 88" canvas top
     

------------------------------

From: DONOHUEPE@aol.com
Date: Sat, 8 Nov 1997 20:30:36 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Shipping 'cross the pond

On Thu, 6 Nov 1997, Uncle Roger <sinasohn@ricochet.net> wrote: "Does anyone
have any recommendations for companies to ship stuff from the UK to the US?
I want to buy an old computer from a guy over there,"

Congratulations, Tio.  Did you find one of the rare Lucas POD computers?

I would have thought they had all rusted away by now.  Although there was
once a rumor about a batch of them, still packed in cosmoline, stashed away
in a long forgotten BpsL warehouse.  Probably the same place they stored the
spare Solex carbs for our Land Rovers.

Profound apologies for lack of gun content.

Paul Donohue
1965 Land Rover Dormobile, light green with green & white canopy.
1895 Winchester
`

------------------------------

From: DONOHUEPE@aol.com
Date: Sat, 8 Nov 1997 20:32:48 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Copytighted Land Rover Names

Re: copyrighted names

On Thu, 6 Nov 97, "Russell G. Dushin" <dushinrg@primail.pr.cyanamid.com>
appears to have volunteered to keep the Registry of Land Rover Names.

Thank you Russell.  Please allow me to register with you the name "Lurch"
for my 1965 Dormobile.  Lurch is painted light green, where the paint has
not yet fallen off and has a green and white canopy.

Origin of the name (a vital part of the name registration process) is
attributed to the analytical comments of a friend, who riding in the thing
for the first time, came up with the name to describe this Land Rover's
smooth, boulevard like, ride.

Paul Donohue
Denver

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 8 Nov 1997 19:51:34 -0600 (CST)
From: Uncle Roger <sinasohn@ricochet.net>
Subject: Re: Shipping 'cross the pond

At 08:30 PM 11/8/97 -0500, you wrote:
>On Thu, 6 Nov 1997, Uncle Roger <sinasohn@ricochet.net> wrote: "Does anyone
>have any recommendations for companies to ship stuff from the UK to the US?
>I want to buy an old computer from a guy over there,"
>Congratulations, Tio.  Did you find one of the rare Lucas POD computers?
>I would have thought they had all rusted away by now.  Although there was
>once a rumor about a batch of them, still packed in cosmoline, stashed away

 
Actually, it leaked so much oil that it was completely protected.  8^)

(Truth be told, one of the many things I collect is old computers,
especially portables.  This is a Philips PC2000 portable, rumoured to run
CP/M.  Land Rover/Gun content: I'm thinking of setting it up to run the
weapons targeting systems in the rover...)

Uncle Roger                       "There is pleasure pure in being mad
sinasohn@ricochet.net                        that none but madmen know."
Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates
San Francisco, California                  http://www.crl.com/~sinasohn/

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 8 Nov 1997 21:04:56 -0500 (EST)
From: landrovr@usaor.net (Jon R. Humphrey)
Subject: Re: Steering Relay...

>The removal of a steering relay is a combination of brute force and finesse
>- a lot of the first and enough of the latter to keep from breaking
>something.
>Personally, I'd suggest a drill - drill through the front of the
>crossmember and the inner tube till you hit the relay housing, then with a
>plastic feed straw flood the inside of the relay tube with a good

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 24 lines)]
>my section on the OVLR Web site and there's a detailed write-up on it.
>                    Alan R/Mr. Churchill (the one and only!)

Yes and a well written article that is. Thank you Al.

But what is the purpose of this individual removing this relay???
Replacement for the sake of replacement or are there other factors???
Is the steering hard and one can only deduct that the relay is the culprit??
It very well might be the phenolic bush at the top of the column and not
the relay. JUst a thought :-)

Meanwhile
I took advantage of the PO who had drilled through the crossmember and the
wall of the relay and installed a grease nipple. (not too bad a technology)
but the book calls for 90w.
I enlarged the hole and installed a 1/4 x 3" pipe nipple and 90 to a
vertical 6" nipple topped off by a plastic cap. Whereby I fill the tubing
with 90w to flow into the relay. it takes months to drain.
When it quits dripping I add more 90w.
Origional frame and origional relay
But I do need a new gavanized frame someday and then I'll do the relay.

  Jon....(Proud owner of "The White Rover" which was painted over
"The UGLY Green Rover" which was painted over "The ORIGIONAL Red Rover"
                        And I named him "Prince Charles"   )
                        And damn Proud of it
                        copyright laws are enforced
                        Certain California residents excluded as they own
                        sole title to certain generic terms.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 08 Nov 1997 22:08:11 -0400
From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: in praise of the Prince

I know it PC to trash Lucas electics but I have a positive tale to
tell and yes it does have L-R content .
   IN 1983 I bought a new White 2-45 farm tractor which was built in 
Japan and as you would expect had Japanese electrics on it. At 18 months
the alternator died. The parts to repair came to $480.00, a new one was
$720.00.
     I thought about replacing it with a Delco but that was too big.
On the self in my shop was a Lucas ACR16 which had come off a Land Rover
some years before. It was just the right size to fit and worked
perfectly until two years ago when I to fit new diodes at cost of $12.00
     I thought someone ought to know....
        John and Muddy..... still not green

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 8 Nov 1997 21:14:21 -0500 (EST)
From: landrovr@usaor.net (Jon R. Humphrey)
Subject: Re: Steering Relay...

>The removal of a steering relay is a combination of brute force and finesse
>- a lot of the first and enough of the latter to keep from breaking
>something.
>Personally, I'd suggest a drill - drill through the front of the
>crossmember and the inner tube till you hit the relay housing, then with a
>plastic feed straw flood the inside of the relay tube with a good

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 24 lines)]
>my section on the OVLR Web site and there's a detailed write-up on it.
>                    Alan R/Mr. Churchill (the one and only!)

Yes and a well written article that is. Thank you Al.

But what is the purpose of this individual removing this relay???
Replacement for the sake of replacement or are there other factors???
Is the steering hard and one can only deduct that the relay is the culprit??
It very well might be the phenolic bush at the top of the column and not
the relay. JUst a thought :-)

Meanwhile
I took advantage of the PO who had drilled through the crossmember and the
wall of the relay and installed a grease nipple. (not too bad a technology)
but the book calls for 90w.
I enlarged the hole and installed a 1/4 x 3" pipe nipple and 90 to a
vertical 6" nipple topped off by a plastic cap. Whereby I fill the tubing
with 90w to flow into the relay. it takes months to drain.
When it quits dripping I add more 90w.
Origional frame and origional relay
But I do need a new gavanized frame someday and then I'll do the relay.

  Jon....(Proud owner of "The White Rover" which was painted over
"The UGLY Green Rover" which was painted over "The ORIGIONAL Red Rover"
                        And I named him "Prince Charles"   )
                        And damn Proud of it
                        copyright laws are enforced
                        Certain California residents excluded as they own
                        sole title to certain generic terms.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 08 Nov 1997 19:05:08 +0800
From: "O Z Z I E   H E R N A E Z" <ozzieh@skyinet.net>
Subject: Lumenition

Greetings!

I  finally am back on this site, just back from the U.S.A. on vacation and=
 back to work in the
Phil. Islands .  Bought a new Toshiba MMX laptop and lots of Rover goodies.=
  Especially the
lumenition for my 1984 ducellier equipped SIII 88".  Brit. Pacific in=
 Burbank offered only the crane
electro-optical only for Lucas distributor LR's.  I ended up ordering from=
 Famous Four in England.
The Chap "Martin" was very efficient with all my questions and had the part=
 delivered to Los Angeles
in only 4 working days , if I imported from P.I.  would have cost me $$ in=
 duties. Anyway the instructions
for installing the lumenition was quite complicated, but it turn out=
 simpler than I thought.  I did have to 
remove the distributor and do it in a table as instructed.  Everything took=
 less than 3 hours.  I will
report on my new petrol mileage in a week.

Ozzie H. 
ozzieh@skyinet.net (formerly kma367)
1984 LR SIII 88

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 08 Nov 1997 22:11:14 -0800
From: Dave Place <dplace@mb.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Tie-rod ends

I just replaced two of the tie-rod ends and the price came to $48
Canadian.  Has anyone got a number for some North American replacements
like TRW for example?  I think I can do better price wise with local
suppliers.  Someone mentioned a shake in the front end caused by
U-Joints.  I too had a shake but when I tried to move the drive shaft it
seemed very tight.  I removed the shaft and checked it on the bench and
when it was off the vehicle it showed lots of movement.  I suspect that
if there is any torsion load on the shaft it won't move around in the
U-Joint but out of the vehicle it shows up the worn condition very
easily.  Anyway I replaced both front drive shaft U-joints and no more
shake.  With these replaced and two of the tie rod ends, it drives like
a new vehicle.  I think I still want to replace the other two tie rod
ends just to make sure the front end is as tight as I can get it.
Does anyone have a brake booster they want to sell?  I think mine has a
hole in the diaphragm.
Dave VE4PN

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 8 Nov 1997 22:15:48 -0500 (EST)
From: landrovr@usaor.net (Jon R. Humphrey)
Subject: Certain Californians

>>David, I noticed that you spelled Green Rover with caps. I sincerely
>>hope
>>that you have not named this car Green Rover.  If you have will you
>>please
>>reconsider?
>>I have owned a 1960 109 for ninteen years.  During that time her name
>>has
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 17 lines)]
>>Please?
>>TeriAnn Wakeman            For personal mail, please start subject line

This is not personal mail
Hey TerriAnne,

Get bent, this is the most ludricous thing you've come up with yet.
A lot of us don't talk here any more because you run the joint, Right????
The one thing  I am NOT... is subtile. And Sure as to hell neither are you..

>"The Green Rover".  Since I am gregarious over the internet & have
>>>been for 11 years (I was one of the first 10 people on the Land Rover
>>>mail.
>a lot of people around the world are aware of my car by the name
>>>Green Rover.  I would prefer to keep the name exclusive to this car.
>>I have owned a 1960 109 for ninteen years.  During that time her name

Well lah de dah

Some of us wear our TeriAnne badges with PRIDE..............
Letcherous
Pornographic
Pondscum
And damn proud of them

"The Green Rover"???????? On the internet????????? Must be TeriAnne. Right?

>I noticed that you spelled Green Rover with caps. I sincerely
>>>hope
>>>that you have not named this car Green Rover.  If you have will you
>>>please
>>>reconsider?
>>I have owned a 1960 109 for ninteen years.  During that time her name

Sheesh

Jon....(Proud owner of "The White Rover" which was painted over
"The UGLY Green Rover" which was painted over "The ORIGIONAL Red Rover"
                        And I named him "Prince Charles"   )
                        And damn Proud of it
                        copyright laws are enforced
                        Certain California residents excluded as they own
                        sole title to certain generic terms.

------------------------------

From: BarrieWyLR@aol.com
Date: Sat, 8 Nov 1997 22:17:33 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Nov. LROI issue

Jim we at the post office would not delay delivery of a magazine just to read
it.  It must have gotten misrouted.  :>)

Barrie
60 SII 88SW "Rugbeater"

------------------------------

From: "Chris Weinbeck, Office Logic, Inc." <cmw@tiac.net>
Subject: Solid aluminum rivets
Date: Sun, 9 Nov 1997 02:39:50 -0500

Bill asked about solid rivets and tools.

As Al Richer suggested the tools shouldn't be too difficult to come by, or use.

Also, you might consider using, let's see...not solid but I guess they're called
"closed" rivets.  That is to say that the body is not an open tube but a closed
cylinder -and remains so after being set in place.  

If you like I can check the McMaster Carr catalog for the name/spec of the 
ones that I purchased.

Chris

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
 Christopher Weinbeck       Office Logic, Inc.       V (508) 392-0288
  ______                              7 Littleton Road         F (508) 692-0897
  |__][_[_\__                     Westford, MA 01886     Computerization for
  |___\_|_]__]                                                           the healthcare
    (o)       (o)   '69 109" RHD OD 2.6 Dormobile        professional

               Ask me about East Coast Rover Co.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

------------------------------

From: "Chris Weinbeck, Office Logic, Inc." <cmw@tiac.net>
Subject: Black leatherette vs oak
Date: Sun, 9 Nov 1997 02:39:41 -0500

You hear that Al?

>had built across the top of the windscreen.  In other words, a padded shelf
>covered in black leatherette, extended right across the top of the screen

Black Leatherette!  Oooh.  

Is that a step up or down from oak? ;-)

Chris

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
 Christopher Weinbeck       Office Logic, Inc.       V (508) 392-0288
  ______                              7 Littleton Road         F (508) 692-0897
  |__][_[_\__                     Westford, MA 01886     Computerization for
  |___\_|_]__]                                                           the healthcare
    (o)       (o)   '69 109" RHD OD 2.6 Dormobile        professional

               Ask me about East Coast Rover Co.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

------------------------------

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