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From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Tue, 4 Nov 1997 07:04:19 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: NRC7314 and NRC7315

In a message dated 97-11-03 23:51:26 EST, you write:

 protection plates? They are kind of home made looking aluminum things
 bolted between the spring plate and spring. Anyone know what the heck
 they do? >>

These are, I believe, the plates to protect the brake lines just before they
enter the brake cylinders in the rear.

Nate

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Nov 1997 13:40:20 +0100 (MET)
From: Terje Krogdahl <tekr@nextel.no>
Subject: Re: Broken teeth in gearbox (lt95)

On Tue, 4 Nov 1997, Doug McPherson wrote:

> Quite a bit of your basic small metal filings/flakes too.
> They're silvery, not brass/yellow.

Not much experience with the lt95 box, but:

Using a magnet, try to find out if the silvery filings are
steel or aluminum. Steel filings come from gears, shafts and bearings,
while aluminum is usually from the gearbox casing, typically caused by
bearings rotating in their seats in the casing... which is bad news.

Just my .02 øre.

TK
Norwegian Land Rover Club
www.land.rover.no
1972 SIII 88" 2.25 petrol

------------------------------

From: Solihull <Solihull@aol.com>
Date: Tue, 4 Nov 1997 07:46:56 EST
Subject: 109 body parts needed!

I need a set of the 'tee' pieces for a 109 sw I'm reframing. I also have a
need for a Scotty's adapter and chevy six. I haven't called any of the regular
suppliers, thought I'd try the list first. The above are for two different
109s.
Thanks!!

Cheers!!
John Dillingham in Woodstock, GA
KF4NAS     LROA #1095
73 s3 swb 25902676b DD "Pansy"
72 s3 swb 25900502a rusted, in suspended animation
Looking for a P5 project, well, OK, or a P6 or another SD1
Vintage Rover Service--Since 1994, just about a couple dozen satisfied
customers!!

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 Nov 1997 07:58:17 -0500
From: David L Glaser <dlglaser@wam.umd.edu>
Subject: Re: Land Rover 6-cyl engines

> The NADA engine has the "Westlake head" which has the rocker arm
> assembly which bolts to the top of the head and the and a seperate
> longer bolt on intake manifold.  The westlake head is the same as on >the 3.0 Rover car engine.  

So, is correct of me to assume that a 3.0 Rover head is a direct bolt-on
to the 2.6 engine?  So you could pretty much make your own NADA engine?

> I am considering using a 3.0L engine to put in my
> NADA 109 Safari Wagon which came without and engine and trans.

Is this also a direct replacement?  Would you know the HP and Torque of
the 3.0 vs. 2.6 vs NADA 2.6?

David Glaser

------------------------------

Date: 4 Nov 1997 08:15:00 -0400
From: "LT J Jackson" <lt_j_jackson@unixlink.uscga.edu>
Subject: Re-  Headliner

Russ WIlson Wrote:
Has anyone dealt with a company in the U.K. called "La Salle Inc"?  They
advertise in LRO for a one piece molded replacement headliner for a 90 that
looks pretty nice in the picture. I have a shredded liner in the pig that
needs to be totally replaced so I was thinking of giving tham a call to see
if they make a model for a trop top 88

Russ:

Pull up www.badgercoachworks.com.  They make headliners for 88's, along with
other trim parts.  I just found them yesterday, and don't have a catalog yet
so I can't give you prices.  The web site has some good pictures of their
products.  They're in MA.

Rgds,

Jeff Jackson
73 SIII 88 (Camilla)
Waterford, CT

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Tue, 04 Nov 97 08:29:22 EST
Subject: Re: Removing exhaust pipe bolts

>Any tips on how to safely remove the nuts holding the exhaust pipe to the
>manifold?  They're pretty heat corroded.  Apart from wrapping them in rags
>soaked in pentetrating oil for a day or so is there anything else that might
>help?

more heat, pb powerblaster penetrating oil, spray, heat, cool, spray, heat, 
cools spray, etc, etc...

have fun!!

later
DaveB.

   Rick Grant

   1959, SII   "VORIZO"  

rgrant@cadvision.com 
www.cadvision.com/rgrant
Cobra Media Communications.  Calgary, Canada
Aboriginal and International Relief Issues

------------------------------

Subject: re: Car Wash Engine Problem
Date: Tue, 4 Nov 97 08:32:15 -0500
From: David Russell <David_R@mindspring.com>

>From: RINGO JACK <RINGOJACK@aol.com>
>Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 17:52:11 EST
>Subject: Car Wash Engine Problem
>I own a 96 Disco and have experienced engine trouble after a self done car
>wash.  I sprayed the engine off lightly with one of those high pressure
>squirters but never applied full pressure, just gently washed it. 

Doesn't matter, if you got the ECU wet, you'll have this kind of =
trouble. I can't remember where it's located but it _REALLY_ doesn't =
like water.

> When I
>started it there was no problem, and I pulled out and drove for about 2 =
miles
>and then the RPM's started dropping when it was idle.  Instead of being =
idle
>around 1000RPMS, it would drop to around 3-2 hundred RPM's and sputter

Had the same problem after _splashing_ (see below) through mud =
puddles at Mid-Atlantic.

>blow out black smoke.  

No black smoke, however.

>I thought this vehicle
>could ford rivers?? The damn thing can't survive a car wash, so how can =
it do
>that??

It can, if done properly. First, max recommended depth, off the =
showroom floor is 20". On the Sunday of Mid Atlantic we took our =
Discovery off-road and up a stream (part of the trail, opened very =
rarely). The water was over the door sills but we were going steadily =
with a bow wave=8Bfast enough to keep water out but not so fast as to =
splash water in. That's the trick. Electronics don't like water and =
vehicles you see in pictures still running under water have been =
heavily waterproofed.

re: black smoke. You may want to ask the Coil-Sprung list if you =
haven't already done so.
 Tell your friends SUBSCRIBE send a message =
to:	MajorDomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net
with the text:					subscribe cso-digest

>Mark Roby
>A concerned rover owner

Cheers,

David Russell
http://www.mindspring.com/~david_r
David_R@mindspring.com
1969 SIIA SWB (Pastel Green, 4-speed)
1997 SD (Oxford Blue, 5-speed)
1977 FJ40 (rust, 8-speed (hopefully still))

------------------------------

From: DEFENDER@ibm.net
Date: Tue, 04 Nov 1997 08:38:58 -0500
Subject: for sale 2 (prices)

I received an email requesting the prices for the items I listed earlier
for sale.  Here they are.

Tuffy Centre console:    sold
Tuffy trunk                    $150.00
Set of 4 31X10.50 ridge runners on American racing wheels  $400

I am on the SC/NC border.  If anyone is interested, I am sure that some
sort of shipping could be worked out.

William PIttman

1997 D90 WAGON

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Nov 1997 06:19:06 -0800
From: twakeman@scruznet.com (TeriAnn Wakeman)
Subject: RE: Washboard caused damage

At  9:09 AM 11/4/97 +0000, Andy Phillips wrote:
<snip>
> However, I do find that a touch of superglue on any nuts etc that
>I've just played with gives me peace of mind.

My past experience with superglue is that it sticks well for a year or two
then then stops sticking.  I have used it to glue broken ornamental glass.
After a year or so the part just falls off.

TeriAnn Wakeman            For personal mail, please start subject line
Santa Cruz California      with TW.  I belong to 4 high volume mail lists
twakeman@scruznet.com      and do not read a lot of threads..Thanks

"The box said 'Requires Windows 95, or better.' So I bought a Macintosh."

------------------------------

From: "Richard Marsden"<rmarsden@digicon-egr.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 4 Nov 1997 14:29:04 +0000
Subject: RE: Washboard caused damage

Glues are complex things and you have to choose the glue for the job.
Superglue is as good as useless on paper for instance. I've also tried the
2-part cyanoacrylite (sp) glues ("professional Superglue" if you like") and
I can never get them to work!

Superglue is excellent for what it was designed for - sticking skin
together (surgery and first aid/Casualty applications). In which case, if
it comes undone after 2 years, who cares?

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR epoxy-mobile)

twakeman@scruznet.com on 11/04/97 02:19:06 PM

Please respond to lro@playground.sun.com

cc:    (bcc: Richard Marsden/EAME/VDGC)

Subject:  RE: Washboard caused damage

At  9:09 AM 11/4/97 +0000, Andy Phillips wrote:
<snip>
> However, I do find that a touch of superglue on any nuts etc that
>I've just played with gives me peace of mind.
My past experience with superglue is that it sticks well for a year or two
then then stops sticking.  I have used it to glue broken ornamental glass.
After a year or so the part just falls off.

TeriAnn Wakeman            For personal mail, please start subject line
Santa Cruz California      with TW.  I belong to 4 high volume mail lists
twakeman@scruznet.com      and do not read a lot of threads..Thanks
"The box said 'Requires Windows 95, or better.' So I bought a Macintosh."

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Nov 1997 15:25:05 +0100
From: Franz Parzefall <franz@physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de>
Subject: Re: Washboard caused damage

On Tue, Nov 04, 1997 at 06:19:06AM -0800, TeriAnn Wakeman wrote:
> My past experience with superglue is that it sticks well for a year or two
> then then stops sticking.  I have used it to glue broken ornamental glass.
> After a year or so the part just falls off.
May be superglue isn't the right stuff. Loctite make quite a range of
products that are ment for securing nuts and bolts. A look in their
catalog will probably help...

just my .02DM

Franz
Franz Parzefall                franz@physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de
		   http://www.physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de/~franz
       _______
      [____|\_\==
      [_-__|__|_-]      Brumml, exmil. 1989 Land Rover 110 2.5D
 ___.._(0)..._.(0)__..-
                                  

------------------------------

Date: Tue,  4 Nov 97 14:13:04    
From: Steve Mace <steve@solwise.demon.co.uk>
Subject: RE: Re- Headliner 

--- On 4 Nov 1997 08:15:00 -0400  LT J Jackson <lt_j_jackson@unixlink.uscga.edu> wrote:

>Russ WIlson Wrote:
>Has anyone dealt with a company in the U.K. called "La Salle Inc"?  They
>advertise in LRO for a one piece molded replacement headliner for a 90 that
>looks pretty nice in the picture. I have a shredded liner in the pig that
>needs to be totally replaced so I was thinking of giving tham a call to see
>if they make a model for a trop top 88

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 11 lines)]
>if they make a model for a trop top 88
>Russ:

-----------------End of Original Message-----------------
I have both a full length roof lining and side linings for my 90 from La Salle.

They are quite nice but I would say that they are a little difficult to fit - it's not easy to accurately cut the window cutouts and involves repeated "fitting, checking, taking out again, filing a bit more, refitting" like processes. Also the final fit is bit poor with some little-finger size gaps where the panels join. They are also not cheap. Overall they are okay though and I would not hesitate in getting them again for a future vehicle.

Steve

1972 SIII LtWt
1993 D90

PS why do you call your LR the pig? It sounds so insulting!
-------------------------------------
Name: Dr Steve Mace
E-mail: steve@solwise.demon.co.uk
www: http://www.demon.co.uk/solwise/
Tel: +44 1482 473899
Fax: +44 1482 472245
Date: 04/11/97
Time: 14:13:04
-------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS <SPYDERS@aol.com>
Date: Tue, 4 Nov 1997 09:46:47 EST
Subject: Re: Washboard damage/Threadlockers

Instead of using superglue, which is too brittle as pointed out and
experienced by some, why not use Loctite products which are designed for the
job?

There are several types for different applications, I forget their numbers,
but here it is in general:

Red- viscous liquid applied to threads prior to assembly; very strong hold
Green- thin liquid which can be applied to previously assembled parts;
removeable without extra force
           (personally, I'm not a big fan of applying threadlocker after the
fact)
Blue- standard threadlocker which is applied before assembly; removeable
without extra force

There are more, but with these three, your nuts & bolts ought to stay put.

BTW, they also make a nice orange sealer which is recommended by porsche for
their air-cooled engine case halves, which seal without gaskets.

No connections, standard disclaimers, etc... oh yeah, none of them work on
paper or skin lacerations ;-).

pat
93  110

------------------------------

From: Andy Phillips <AnPi@norsk-data.co.uk>
Subject: RE: Washboard caused damage
Date: Tue, 4 Nov 1997 14:49:15 -0000

Why did I quote superglue as a good product? I find that a year is
probably the most I want to go without checking the nuts, bolts etc. in
question. Mostly I like to undo them partially just to crack the seal of
rust or grime that will later require some serious heat to break. The
other nuts, bolts etc. require complete removal to clean them and the
thread of all the rust/muck. If you've got a Land Rover in better
condition than mine (quite likely actually!) then this may not fit in
with your schedule and a more permanent approach will be required. I
generally find that road conditions and mileage cause me to want to
adjust just about everything after a while, the rest is riveted (by the
manufacturer) and I hope I never have to adjust it! All nuts, bolts etc.
on the inside are covered in paint which is elastic enough to resist
vibration. My vehicle is bare inside at the moment so maybe I've got
less to worry about with a simple 90 hardtop than most. I suspect that
when I've finished fixing up the wee beastie I will have to look at a
more permanent fix for vibration, for now I seem to be taking everything
off and cleaning it . . . anyone use a longer lasting fix for this
washboard effect? Does anyone know if superglue is affected by leaking
oil at all? Suddenly I'm starting to worry . . .

Andy.

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	twakeman@scruznet.com [SMTP:twakeman@scruznet.com]
> Sent:	Tuesday, November 04, 1997 2:19 PM
> To:	lro@playground.sun.com
> Subject:	RE: Washboard caused damage

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 31 lines)]
> "The box said 'Requires Windows 95, or better.' So I bought a
> Macintosh."

------------------------------

From: "Richard Marsden"<rmarsden@digicon-egr.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 4 Nov 1997 14:55:27 +0000
Subject: Re: Washboard damage/Threadlockers

>There are several types for different applications, I forget their
numbers,
>but here it is in general:
>Red- viscous liquid applied to threads prior to assembly; very strong hold
>Green- thin liquid which can be applied to previously assembled parts;
>removeable without extra force
           (personally, I'm not a big fan of applying threadlocker after
the
>fact)
>Blue- standard threadlocker which is applied before assembly; removeable
>without extra force
Ah! That explains a lot. I seem to use the blue (although I do have some
red but I don't remember it being that viscous - possibly different sutff?)
which does tend to come undone quite easily. I don't think I've had any
blue-fastened stuff which have rattled loose.

>No connections, standard disclaimers, etc... oh yeah, none of them work on
>paper or skin lacerations ;-).
Damm! That's where I've been going wrong!  :-)

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FwR with blue bits & lots of orange gasket
stuff)

------------------------------

From: DEFENDER@ibm.net
Date: Tue, 04 Nov 1997 09:53:44 -0500
Subject: [Fwd: TELLICO and Charlotte club]
[digester: Removing section of:  Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="------------5D7EBB5B8AA2F50B02A33B27" ]

--------------5D7EBB5B8AA2F50B02A33B27
[digester: Removing section of:  Content-Type: message/rfc822 ]

Two questions:
1:  I am curious how many of you live in the Charlotte area.  I am
working on forming a club here, North Carolina, and am trying to decide
how much interaction I can expect.

2:  Are any of you going to be going to Tellico on Thanksgiving?

Please direct mail me if you are interested.

William Pittman

1997 D90 WAGON

--------------5D7EBB5B8AA2F50B02A33B27--

------------------------------

From: Andy Phillips <AnPi@norsk-data.co.uk>
Subject: RE: Washboard caused damage
Date: Tue, 4 Nov 1997 14:53:30 -0000

I care!!! People begin to suspect you've had an accident with the
superglue after the second night of seeing you leaning against the
landrover pretending to be waiting for someone outside your own house.
That and only ever waving to them with one hand . . .

Andy.

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	Richard Marsden [SMTP:rmarsden@digicon-egr.co.uk]
> Sent:	Tuesday, November 04, 1997 2:29 PM
> To:	lro@playground.sun.com
> Subject:	RE: Washboard caused damage

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 74 lines)]
> "The box said 'Requires Windows 95, or better.' So I bought a
> Macintosh."

------------------------------

From: "Richard Marsden"<rmarsden@digicon-egr.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 4 Nov 1997 15:04:08 +0000
Subject: RE: Washboard caused damage

Ah, but that is what paint is for - an "escape hatch"!

Hey, that's an idea! NATO green would look excellant with hand "holes"
going through to the underlying Bronze Green, or Black Primer!  :-)

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FwithR in var. cracked shades of NATO Green)

AnPi@norsk-data.co.uk on 11/04/97 02:53:30 PM

Please respond to lro@playground.sun.com

cc:    (bcc: Richard Marsden/EAME/VDGC)

Subject:  RE: Washboard caused damage

I care!!! People begin to suspect you've had an accident with the
superglue after the second night of seeing you leaning against the
landrover pretending to be waiting for someone outside your own house.
That and only ever waving to them with one hand . . .

Andy.
> -----Original Message-----
> From:   Richard Marsden [SMTP:rmarsden@digicon-egr.co.uk]
      [ truncated by lro-lite (was 74 lines)]
> "The box said 'Requires Windows 95, or better.' So I bought a
> Macintosh."

------------------------------

From: "Richard Marsden"<rmarsden@digicon-egr.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 4 Nov 1997 15:12:10 +0000
Subject: Active Volume Controls

Well, I've had the radio fitted for about 2 days, and the inevitable battle
between the truck and the radio
is occurring.
I can set the volume for "cruising" but then its far too loud for lights
and junctions.
There are the obvious solutions like a.) a decent radio [rather than a 2nd
hand one]; and b.) a sound proofing kit. But, I have a feeling these will
only be partial solutions.

Anyone tried anything like active volume controls (I've seen it in a
Vauxhall poshmobile, but it was more annoying than anything else); or even
"anti sound" systems (eg. like Andy Green's helmet in ThrustSSC; or in
Arthur C. Clarke's "Tales from the White Hart").  The latter strikes me as
having some serious flaws, though.

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FwithR)

------------------------------

From: DEFENDER@ibm.net
Date: Tue, 04 Nov 1997 10:18:47 -0500
Subject: Re: Active Volume Controls

I have dealt with this problem for years, in Jeeps.  I just dealt with
it.  I do, however, know of some stereo guys that put in active controls
and they liked them pretty well.  On guy had his stereo hooked up to his
cell phone as well as sound sensors.  The volume would raise and lower
based on his settings or when his cell phone rang.  Pretty cool.

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS <SPYDERS@aol.com>
Date: Tue, 4 Nov 1997 10:23:16 EST
Subject: Re:  RE: Washboard caused damage

In a message dated 11/4/97 9:52:22 AM, AnPi wrote:

>Why did I quote superglue as a good product? I find that a year is
>probably the most I want to go without checking the nuts, bolts etc. in
>question. Mostly I like to undo them partially just to crack the seal of

>rust or grime that will later require some serious heat to break. The
>other nuts, bolts etc. require complete removal to clean them and the
>thread of all the rust/muck. 

>If you've got a Land Rover in better
>condition than mine (quite likely actually!) then this may not fit in
>with your schedule and a more permanent approach will be required. I
>generally find that road conditions and mileage cause me to want to
>adjust just about everything after a while

Even if you feel the need to undo and loosen and clean the nuts and bolts of
your 90 before the year's up, a threadlocker will do more to protect them than
superglue, the threadlocker actually being present within the threads. It
creates an air-free environment within the threads (as we all know, there
*isn't* a 100% interference between the nut and the bolt, allowing water, air
and road salt to migrate within the threads). That anaerobic environment helps
in preventing rust, corrosion, muck etc., from working its way into the
threads; an added benefit to holding the fastener at the proper torque
setting. If you are concerned with muck on exposed threads, use shorter bolts
where possible. The threads that hang off a bolt don't contribute to the
holding power, they just add weight (and grow muck). 

pat.
93  110

FWIW, Loosening and re-tightening bolts can be a bad thing where: there are
gaskets that get "crushed" once and when pressure is lost, they have to be
replaced; where bolts are designed to stretch to hold the proper torque; where
ny-lock nuts are used (toss them out too)...  (and if one doesn't have an
accurate torque wrench to re-tighten). One would just end up buying a lot of
seals, gaskets and ny-locks.

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS <SPYDERS@aol.com>
Date: Tue, 4 Nov 1997 10:48:27 EST
Subject: Re: Active Volume Controls (*not* a suggestion)

I'm thinking of a "Proximity/Orientation-Velocity-Enhancing-
Receiver/Transmitter-Yeller Radio" unit. Also known as P.O.V.E.R.T.Y. Radio,
it would require the user to (super)glue two metal transmitters to each ear,
they would tell the radio unit which way the drivers head was turned and how
near it is in relation to the speakers. The radio would  recieve and respond
to signals beamed out by the radioactive beacons and adjust the balance so
each ear would recieve the same quantity of sound. The radio's super-speed-
detector would monitor the central diff to judge speed and vary the volume
accordingly, and if it is locked, realize that you are probably off-road and
start making elephant and hyena noises intermittently. (If it detects massive
amounts of wheel-spin, it will assume you are in the Camel Trophy and blare
words of encouragement like "mash the throttle, the greek team's on our
b*tt..." or "more mud for the cameras, we need to make this look difficult..."
as well as the (whispered) "hey navigator, is this whole thing necessary?!")
Of course, who could live without the cell phone hookup, which would *raise*
the volume of wind coming through the window and the noise from the transfer
case so that you can hang up with the real reason of not hearing anything.
Also built in to the unit would be an interior radar range & mass detection
unit that would automatically know when a mother in law was in the vehicle, in
which seat too, and automatically feed white noise to that area periodically
interrupted by "yes, of course I love your daughter..." and "feel free to pop
in anytime, mum..." The benefit of the 

These days, it can be so hard to find the volume control on the space station
radios fitted to cars... ;-)

pat
93  not-Fitted-yet 110

------------------------------

From: "Richard Marsden"<rmarsden@digicon-egr.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 4 Nov 1997 16:03:27 +0000
Subject: Re: Active Volume Controls (*not* a suggestion)

:-)

Have a 109" would mean I could have a simple system - no need to check the
centre diff for speed!

I think a lot of my problem is the lack of sound-proofing, and the crappy
volume control on the radio I've got  - a tiny little slider thingy.

The poxy speakers (ex-Fiesta prototype) were glued in with epoxy    :-)
And the radio shelf is covered in "Buffalo" Hide...

The *only* other thing I need, is to find my tape of "Ride of the
Valkyries"...     :-)

No one's come up with a PC name for the radiator muff yet...

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)

SPYDERS@aol.com on 11/04/97 03:48:27 PM

Please respond to lro@playground.sun.com

cc:    (bcc: Richard Marsden/EAME/VDGC)

Subject:  Re: Active Volume Controls (*not* a suggestion)

I'm thinking of a "Proximity/Orientation-Velocity-Enhancing-
Receiver/Transmitter-Yeller Radio" unit. Also known as P.O.V.E.R.T.Y.
Radio,
it would require the user to (super)glue two metal transmitters to each
ear,
they would tell the radio unit which way the drivers head was turned and
how
near it is in relation to the speakers. The radio would  recieve and
respond
to signals beamed out by the radioactive beacons and adjust the balance so
each ear would recieve the same quantity of sound. The radio's super-speed-
detector would monitor the central diff to judge speed and vary the volume
accordingly, and if it is locked, realize that you are probably off-road
and
start making elephant and hyena noises intermittently. (If it detects
massive
amounts of wheel-spin, it will assume you are in the Camel Trophy and blare
words of encouragement like "mash the throttle, the greek team's on our
b*tt..." or "more mud for the cameras, we need to make this look
difficult..."
as well as the (whispered) "hey navigator, is this whole thing
necessary?!")
Of course, who could live without the cell phone hookup, which would
*raise*
the volume of wind coming through the window and the noise from the
transfer
case so that you can hang up with the real reason of not hearing anything.
Also built in to the unit would be an interior radar range & mass detection
unit that would automatically know when a mother in law was in the vehicle,
in
which seat too, and automatically feed white noise to that area
periodically
interrupted by "yes, of course I love your daughter..." and "feel free to
pop
in anytime, mum..." The benefit of the
These days, it can be so hard to find the volume control on the space
station
radios fitted to cars... ;-)
pat
93  not-Fitted-yet 110

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Tue, 04 Nov 97 11:16:23 EST
Subject: Re[2]: Active Volume Controls (*not* a suggestion)

>>No one's come up with a PC name for the radiator muff yet...

no one wants to. We all LIKE using the word muff.

'muff said

oops that was a typo...

'nuff said :)

later
DaveB.

------------------------------

From: Bob Watson <bobw@microsoft.com>
Subject: RE: Car Wash Engine Problem
Date: Tue, 4 Nov 1997 09:04:16 -0800

A couple of points:
1) what most likely happened is you got water in/on your distributor (or
whatever that thing in the back of the engine that replaces the
distributor is called) and were experiencing mis-fires. What I do with
my Disco when washing the engine is to wash it first and let it dry (by
washing the rest of the car) before trying to start it. If you can't
wait, try wiping the HT leads and the distributor (or whatever) with a
towel before starting the motor. Also as another poster suggested, make
sure you didn't blow any connectors loose or apart while washing.

2) to keep from getting ribbed about washing your car, (god forbid
should you ask a question about your air conditioning, sun roof or CD
changer! :-) you might try the land rover e-mail listserv that caters to
the later models a.k.a. "coil sprung" rovers by:

SUBSCRIBE send a message to:	MajorDomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net
with the text:					subscribe cso-digest

and optionally 

UNSUBSCRIBE send a message to:		MajorDomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net
	with the text:				unsubscribe lro-digest
	
Happy trails!
-- Bob W.
'95 Disco

> -----Original Message-----
> From: RINGO JACK <RINGOJACK@aol.com>
> Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 17:52:11 EST
> Subject: Car Wash Engine Problem
> I own a 96 Disco and have experienced engine trouble after a self done
> car
> wash.  I sprayed the engine off lightly with one of those high
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 30 lines)]
> Mark Roby
> A concerned rover owner

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Nov 1997 12:09:47 -0500 (EST)
From: David Scheidt <david@math.earlham.edu>
Subject: Radiator muffs

Richard Mardsen asks about pc terms for rad muffs.  What is the objection
to cardboard box?

In other news, I decided to stop putting off the tune up of my Siia.
Needing a new set of spark plugs, I took out the number one plug to see
what was there, closed the bonnet, and drove to the auto parts store.
Having obtained replacement plugs, I drove home.  On opening the bonnet, I
relized that i had in fact just driven there and back with only three
cylinders...  I think I need to sleep more.

David

--------
David_Scheidt@math.earlham.edu

yip yip yip yap yap yak yap yip *BANG*  -- no terrier

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 Nov 1997 18:12:54
From: Paul Wakefield <pwakefie@mail.esrin.esa.it>
Subject: Railco and ramblings

Hello all,

	Just thought I'd wade in with a few ramblings.

I enjoyed the trailer page http://members.aol.com/cglaves/trailer/want.html
immensely, but did feel a bit of an anorak ! 

robot1@juno.com (Mark Hardig) wrote

)Subject: Railco bushes
)Anyone out there know of what material Railco bushings are made? Also, is
)it possible to replace them with bearings, or is this a needed wear item?
)Mark Hardig

I am also curious about the railco bush. I assume it is some form of nylon,
but how resistant to damage is this item. I know the military enjoy testing
LR's to destruction on their tank proving grounds, but I would naturally
assume these bushes would explode, say after a good (few feet) jump and
contact with the ground.

Admittedly they were the 'replacement' for the timken-style bearing, but is
it as reliable ? again I would surmise that the needle rollers could be
pushed into the carrier given sufficient force, but would still function if
needed to get out of the bush. (no pun intended) 

So, are these bushes a potential weakness on the front axle ? 
Is there a better aftermarket replacement e.g. from polybush.

Richard asks
)So, what is the politically correct name for a radiator muff?
)Anyone out there know of what material Railco bushings are made? Also, is

Radiator cowl ! (sorry, couldn't think of a witty pun here)

Cheers,

Paul.

------------------------------

From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Subject: Out in the rain.
Date: Tue, 4 Nov 1997 10:23:53 -0800

>-----Original Message-----
>From:	Russ Wilson [SMTP:rwilson@usaor.net]
>  Paul wrote:  >Last night with the help of two friends, I took the roof of
>the Rover
>>and pushed it into the garage.  The BMW now sits out in the rain :-)

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 17 lines)]
>for any Land Rover products that I've seen.  (but I still love them:-)
>Paul. 

------------------------------

From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Subject: FW: Out in the rain. (2nd attempt)
Date: Tue, 4 Nov 1997 10:31:24 -0800

Sometimes, the Major's auto-truncate function is REALLY annoying...

What I was trying to say was:

 Paul wrote:  >Last night with the help of two friends, I took the roof
of the Rover
>and pushed it into the garage.  The BMW now sits out in the rain :-)

Russ says:  Good man!! That's were the Beemer belongs

  I agree.  After 14 years of daily driving in a very wet climate,
220,000 + kms,  the BMW has no signs of rust what so ever. Anywhere.
Can't say that for any Land Rover products that I've seen.  (but I still
love them:-)

Paul. 

>-----Original Message-----
>From:	Paul Quin 
>Sent:	Tuesday, November 04, 1997 10:24 AM
>To:	lro@playground.sun.com
>Subject:	Out in the rain.

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 16 lines)]
>>for any Land Rover products that I've seen.  (but I still love them:-)
>>Paul. 

------------------------------

Date: 4 Nov 1997 14:30:42 -0400
From: "LT J Jackson" <lt_j_jackson@unixlink.uscga.edu>
Subject: Repair Manuals

A fellow at a gas station noticed my SIII last night, walked over and gave me
a catalog for Portrayal Press.  (Actually, he noticed me dragging the fuel
hose through the passenger door, cross-car, to get at the aux tank, which no
doubt looked like I was putting the final ingredient into my fertilizer bomb
before heading off to trim the federal payroll).

Portrayal is a niche marketer (er, an extreme niche marketer) which
specializes in repair manuals for your Sherman battle tanks and exploded parts
diagrams for  your WWII-vintage M13B cart, hand, wheeled (one each).  BUT -
they also carry some land rover stuff.  They advertise full factory repair
manuals for SII, IIA and III (900 pages) for 99 dollars.  This seems to be
considerably less than the RN price for the big manuals (shock, disbelief).  

Portrayals web site is www.portrayal.com. Not much there, but the catalog
order number is 973-579-5781.  

No connections, etc., just passing the word.

Jeff Jackson
73 SIII 88 (Camilla)
Waterford, CT

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 Nov 1997 13:22:55 -0700
From: Rick Grant <rgrant@cadvision.com>
Subject: Removing exhaust fittings --thanks

        
Thanks for all the suggestions on removing the exhaust pipe fittings on my Sll.

Got them all off with the help of a propane torch, hammer and wrench, lots
of swearing and four hours of Land Rover yoga exercises.

			Rick Grant

			1959, SII   "VORIZO"  

rgrant@cadvision.com	
www.cadvision.com/rgrant
Cobra Media Communications.  Calgary, Canada
Aboriginal and International Relief Issues

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Nov 1997 09:51:03 +1300 (NZDT)
From: Graham Furniss <graham@forum8.co.nz>
Subject: Re: Railco and ramblings

Hi all,

>robot1@juno.com (Mark Hardig) wrote
>)Subject: Railco bushes
>)Anyone out there know of what material Railco bushings are made? Also, is
>	 [ truncated by lro-lite (was 6 lines)]
>)it possible to replace them with bearings, or is this a needed wear item?
>)Mark Hardig
>I am also curious about the railco bush. I assume it is some form of nylon,
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 13 lines)]
>assume these bushes would explode, say after a good (few feet) jump and
>contact with the ground.

Never seen it.

>Admittedly they were the 'replacement' for the timken-style bearing, but is
>it as reliable ? again I would surmise that the needle rollers could be
>pushed into the carrier given sufficient force, but would still function if
>needed to get out of the bush. (no pun intended) 

Very reliable.

>So, are these bushes a potential weakness on the front axle ? 
>Is there a better aftermarket replacement e.g. from polybush.

The railco bush it is in the top kingpin hole so it does not see most of the
impact of a hard landing. The bush itself is a friction material rather like
brake lining and is there to provide damping for the steering. This is in
contrast to the coil sprung landrovers which use taper roller bearings for
top and bottom and a hydraulic damper.

It is not un-heared of to replace the railco bush with the same bearing as
the lower one BUT you MUST fit a hydraulic damper to the steering or you get
all sorts of funny vibrations :(. It can also be a bit difficult to get the
bearing pre-load right with this set up.

Personally, I ran railco bushes in our SI for 10 years without any problems
and that vehicle was WELL used; fitted and forgotten. Plenty of hard
landings in that time and passed WOF (saftey inspection) every 6 months
without fail.

>Richard asks
>)So, what is the politically correct name for a radiator muff?
>)Anyone out there know of what material Railco bushings are made? Also, is
>Radiator cowl ! (sorry, couldn't think of a witty pun here)

Rad Jacket? Goes with the Cable Tie perhaps?

Cheers, Graham.
================================================================================
Graham Furniss                                               graham@forum8.co.nz
Senior Software Engineer/Dev & Opps Manager                  Ph  (64)(3)365 3888
Forum 8 (NZ) Ltd.                                            FAX (64)(3)377 9888
Christchurch
New Zealand.
________________________________________________________________________________
"Hummm... Tricky!" Deep Thought in        'The Hitch Hikers Guide to the
Galaxy' 
                                          Douglas Adams

------------------------------

From: "Eyres, Richard RP" <Eyres.Richard.RP@bhp.com.au>
Subject: RE: Skid plates & rock sliders for SIII 88
Date: Wed, 5 Nov 1997 09:26:00 +1100 

You wrote:

I am considering designing & fabricating cost effective skid plates &
rock
sliders for my SIII 88 (I have checked out some prefab sources). Anyone
with
any experience regarding frame attachment points, etc., as I would
prefer to
use existing holes.  I plan on taking some shots underneath . The welder
I am dealing with thinks we can do the entire job (3
skid plates & 2 rock sliders) for around $ 300. No fancy metal like
aluminum,
just ventilated, painted steel plate for the skid plates. I am
negotiating to
keep the patterns too.

Karen Sindir
'74 SIII 88 "Red Rufy"
___

I'd be interested to hear how you get on, as skid plates and sliders are
nearly at the top of my 'next to do' list  As yet I've not really given
any thought as to how, only that it is a good idea. My only thought on
the sliders is that ideally they should be strong enough to use as hi
lift jacking points. The bulkhead(firewall) to out rigger bolt suggests
its self as an obvious attachment point, not sure about the other end
though. Are you going to protect the tank too?
TIA
Richard.  S3 SWB
New Zealand

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 Nov 1997 16:34:38 -0500
From: Doug Tully <dtully@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Long Distance Hauling

I am intersted in buying a IIA in Colorado, but I live in New Jersey.
Does anyone know a reputable and economic hauling company?
Thanks
--
Doug Tully
dtully@ix.netcom.com

------------------------------

From: CIrvin1258@aol.com
Date: Tue, 4 Nov 1997 16:53:22 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Washboard caused damage

Usually, the first inclination when driving on a washboard road, is to drive
slowly. I've found (from many years driving in the desert), that sometimes if
you drive faster, usually about 30-40mph, while the bumps are still there,
they aren't quite as harsh. I used to have a MGB-GT that I took on desert
excursions on almost a weekly basis, and in the 4 years that I was taking it
out there, I never had any problems with parts coming loose.

I don't know if it was simply how tight everything was, or if it was my
driving habits, or both, but I still haven't to this day, had any problems.

Charles

------------------------------

From: DEFENDER@ibm.net
Date: Tue, 04 Nov 1997 17:08:17 -0500
Subject: ROAV WEB SITE?

Does ROAV have a web site?  If so, or if not, is there any information
on the web concerning this years Mid Atlantic rally?

------------------------------

From: tashworth@sonar.com (Tom Ashworth)
Subject: frame
Date: 04 Nov 1997 22:52:29 GMT

Hi,

I'm looking for a 1971 S III frame (used).

Best,

Tom Ashworth

************************************************************

The Sonar Group
tel.  416-703-6800
fax. 416-703-6799
e-mail: staff@sonar.com

************************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Nov 1997 18:04:34 -0600 (CST)
From: Uncle Roger <sinasohn@ricochet.net>
Subject: Re: Commuting in a Series 

At 10:45 AM 11/3/97 -0400, you wrote:
>I just learned that due to a transfer I'll be making an 80 mile (rt) highway
[...]
>So, should I stick with the SIII, or start shopping for Hyundota beaterbox to
>flog like one of Her Majesty's conscripts?   My truck is dependable and I
>think it could handle the job; it just needs the usual recurring (and
 
Hi.  My name is Roger.  I'm a tree hugger, and I've commuted in a Land
Rover.  <gasp!>  8^)

I did 35miles each way for a while a couple years back.  No problems,
really.  Not good for the environment and all that, but I had a pretty easy
route (hwy 280 from SF to Palo Alto) with little traffic (most of which was
doing ~80mph.)  I had a good engine, and was able to maintain 70mph for most
of the way.  It was fun, I sure enjoyed being in the land rover.  

On the downside, gas was expensive, and I didn't have a radio (or maybe I
did, but just couldn't hear it?) so I did get a little weird.  (You should
hear my girlfriend's answering machine message -- I came up with it on the
road...)  Anyway, if $ (gas) are an issue, examine the cost of gas versus
the cost of a cheap beater car.  Also, depending on your vehicle's speed,
consider also your time.  Factor in your thoughts about the environment if
applicable.  

As far as is it doable, sure.  Of course, you'll have a hard time wiping the
sh*t-eating grin off your face when you get to work.  8^)

Uncle Roger                       "There is pleasure pure in being mad
sinasohn@ricochet.net                        that none but madmen know."
Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates
San Francisco, California                  http://www.crl.com/~sinasohn/

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Nov 1997 18:05:04 -0600 (CST)
From: Uncle Roger <sinasohn@ricochet.net>
Subject: Guns and Rovers (long and irrelevant)

At 07:46 PM 11/3/97 -0500, you wrote:

>Gosh...I must have hit a sore spot here...

I wasn't sure if I was going to respond to this, (and I'm still not sure if
I'll send this or delete it) but since huge CoBOL programs take forever to
compile on overloaded machines, here goes nothing...

I too have been out that way a couple of times.  One time I did bring my
rifle (.22 bolt action marlin) but it was with the hope of sampling some of
Brad Blevins' world famous rabbit stew.  The other times I didn't.  (And for
the record, I'm an ultra-liberal tree-hugger, who loves guns; the only
reason I only have two is because I'm broke.)

For this outing, I agree with the sentiments of the organizers.  There is no
need for firearms on this run.  Sure, it is a desolate area, and you may
find yourself on your own, and your LR might even break down (does that ever
happen? 8^).

*BUT* you would not be left there.  If you didn't turn up after an hour or
two, the organizers, I'm sure, would start a search for any missing
vehicles/people.  So the need for protection is simply not there.  

As for carrying a firearm for protection in general, it simply doesn't make
sense.  Let's say your tooling along in the middle of nowhere, and you spot
a vehicle sitting by the side of the road.  Next to it is a guy in a lawn
chair, with a shotgun across his lap.  Would you stop?  I don't think I
would.  So as a survival tool, it won't keep you alive in the long run. 

Now, let's say it's you sitting there, but you realize people don't stop to
chat with guys holding shotguns, so you stow it in the vehicle, out of
sight.  Along comes a truck and two guys jump out, both holding guns.  Your
shotgun sure isn't gonna do you much good.  Even if you're packing a .357 in
a small-of-the-back holster, you're not going to be able to draw before they
pull the trigger.  Multiple times.

What if they don't show hostility at all at first?  You're all carrying
concealed handguns.  They're out to do you in, you're hoping they'll fix
your truck (or whatever).  Because they *know* they're going to draw,
they'll draw faster than you *every time* because you have to react to their
action.  

So the only way a gun will protect you is if you keep it out and ready.  But
then you won't get any assistance.  (I doubt the good samaritan stuff
applies to people carrying guns.)

As for wild animals, getting inside the rover and closing the doors should
take care of almost all animals.  Any that are pissed off/determined enough
to get into a closed Rover would only be pissed off more by any caliber
bullet you're likely to carry.  

So, no, I'm not opposed to the idea of carrying a firearm in general, I do
support the position of the desertpro thing in terms of carrying firearms,
and I do think that carrying (or owning, for that matter) a firearm for
self-protection is illogical.

>I simply stated a fact: That area is VERY remote, you're lucky to find a call
>box out there - IF there is a call box out there!

That is true.  However, it is completely irrelevant to the question of
carrying a firearm.

Uncle Roger                       "There is pleasure pure in being mad
sinasohn@ricochet.net                        that none but madmen know."
Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates
San Francisco, California                  http://www.crl.com/~sinasohn/

------------------------------

From: "Vel N." <vel@mcs.net>
Subject: new exhaust
Date: Tue, 4 Nov 1997 18:43:02 -0600

I'm being a bargain shopper, so my question is:  Where do people buy their
replacement exhaust systems from for their Series vehicles.  (88").  And,
how much should I expect to pay?

Looking in the RN catalog, I'm guessing it's about $170+.  Any other places
with
better prices for the same or better quality?

Thanks.

Vel

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 Nov 1997 20:43:12 -0500
From: Jeff Goldman <roverboy@gis.net>
Subject: Defender front ends...

  Does anyone know of a source for Defender style front ends (the grille,
radiator panel, and wings) in the US or a reliable easy overseas source?
For a conversion of a Series truck to a V8. Used is fine.

  Does anyone know if the Range Rover cooling systems fit the Defender
radiator panel? In other words, is it possible to transfer the oil cooler
radiator, the A/C condensor with fans, and cooling radiator with oil
cooling tanks into the Defender style front end?

  For those that have dealt with hybrid conversions, does the Defender unit
attach to the Range Rover chassis in the same way as in the Defender, or
will I have to fabricate new mounts?
  Thanks...

Jeff G.

Boston, MA
1971 88" Series IIA Land Rover - needing frame
1990 Range Rover County - hybrid fodder (ask about parts)
1990 Eagle Talon TSi AWD - the anomaly, albeit a competently quick 4x4
1991 Range Rover Hunter - basically OME-ified

------------------------------

From: CIrvin1258@aol.com
Date: Tue, 4 Nov 1997 21:54:31 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: TeriAnn's concern

Point well taken. However in my case, the Air Force has taught me well.

I know all too well, the sound of bullets whizzing by (in civilian life, as
well as in battlefield conditions), and it can be VERY disturbing indeed, as
well as being stuck in an AC-130 that is being riddled by the same bullets!

I served with the 1st Air Commando Wing from 1983-1987, and due to the nature
of that units' activities, am not permitted to discuss much, but I can say
that I've seen my share, and anybody that's been there long enough does walk
away with the feeling that they won't be safe, unless they're carrying - it
doesn't matter where they are. Only when they become familiar with places, do
they ease up. It's not really delayed stress, but kind of. It's tough to
explain, unless you've been there. It's kind of a combination of being
required to carry for so long, that you don't feel right when you don't,
coupled with the fact that you've been shot at so many times, that you "have
to" carry something. In the end, I guess its simply the desire to hang around
for a few more years, and being patriotic has nothing to do with it.

During my trip to Nevada, I had both a shotgun, and a rifle with me, because
I had planned on doing a little "plinking" when I was at Black Rock
(Breedloves' web site said it was okay to target shoot there), and as it
turned out, I never even took them out of my locker, I was so relaxed there!

Your point is well taken though. I've seen too many yahoos at Kentucky Canyon
(which is now closed) get drunk, and think that they're John Wayne, so I know
what you mean. It makes us responsible people look bad.

It is nice to have something there - just in case. After all, most law
enforcement types generally take a dim view on people that carry baseball
bats with them, when they obviously don't play the game! But, for those of
you that have never held a gun in your life, do me a favor...stay clear - I
like being alive!

Also, for those of you planning to attend the LROA event, keep in mind -
Nevada IS a class 3 firearms state, so if you do happen to see somebody off
in the desert firing a machine gun, they are legal there (again, my point
being that you never know what you'll find), as are grenades,
silencers,destructive devices, etc. - provided that the bearer has a permit
for them.

I apologize to you too, TeriAnn.

Charles Irvin            Spectre Club member since 1983
British Airways Cargo/LAX
1959 SII 88 petrol
1962 SIIa 109 diesel

------------------------------

From: ASFCO@worldnet.att.net
Subject: Kenlowe Hot Start
Date: Wed, 5 Nov 1997 03:43:19 +0000

Anyone on the list have direct experience with The Kenlowe Hot Start?? With
the cold weather approaching I would be intrested in hearing about its
performance and ease of installation
TIA
Rgds
Steve Bradke       96 Discovery
WA2GMC             72 S lll 88 (For Sale)
                   68 S lla 88                 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 05 Nov 1997 22:51:54 +0900
From: Winn Bearden <wbearden@americus.net>
Subject: Re: Defender front ends...

Jeff Goldman wrote:
>   Does anyone know of a source for Defender style front ends (the grille,
> radiator panel, and wings) in the US or a reliable easy overseas source?
> For a conversion of a Series truck to a V8. Used is fine.
>   Does anyone know if the Range Rover cooling systems fit the Defender
> radiator panel? In other words, is it possible to transfer the oil cooler
> radiator, the A/C condensor with fans, and cooling radiator with oil

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 23 lines)]
> 1990 Eagle Talon TSi AWD - the anomaly, albeit a competently quick 4x4
> 1991 Range Rover Hunter - basically OME-ified
Jeff,
	My inbox got zapped a few weeks ago, but if I remember correctly, a
company in the U.K. called APB Trading offers a Defender- style front
clip for Series vehicles using Genuine Parts.  I believe the price was
320 pounds plus shipping. email: apb@dircon.co.uk  website:
apb@dircon.co.uk
	As for Defender vs. RR chassis mounting, they are totally different.
-- 
Winn Bearden
P.O. Box 464
Americus, GA 31709
912-924-6513 (H)
912-928-4984 (CELL)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Nov 1997 23:21:28 -0500 (EST)
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Springs

Nate wrote:

>I may be wrong here, but I think the manual states to tighten the shackle
>bolt to 60 or 65 ft-lbs....

I think they are referring to the lock nut, not the shackle plate.  My 
advice on shackle plates came from the gurus at Rovers North.  Think about 
it - what good are bushings if the shackle plats are drawn up tight against 
the sides of the springs?  Might as well weld the buggers on and forget all 
that nuisance of replacing the bushings.  cheers

      *---"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                  | 
      |     Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |
      |   "The oldest Rover-marque club in the Americas"   |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730    |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 757-622-7054 (Day) |
      |    757-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 757-622-7056    |
      |                                                    |
      *---1972 Series III 88"-----1996 Discovery SE-7(m)---*

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 Nov 1997 22:36:41 -0800
From: Jeremy Bartlett <bartlett@slip.net>
Subject: Re: Broken teeth in gearbox (lt95)

Doug McPherson wrote:

> a) Terminal. Rebuild the box now. Don't even drive down the street.
> b) Big problem. Going to need a rebuild soon, but keep driving for
>    now, its not going to cause any more problems.

I'd say its' somewhere between a and b.  If the teeth are seriously
chipped/broken then you have the risk of further damage to the
associated gears or worse the lodging of additional teeth into other
gears or bearings.  That will increase your eventual rebuild cost.

cheers,

Jeremy

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 Nov 1997 23:43:24 -0500
From: Dean Meyer <Dean.Meyer@internord.net>
Subject: Re: frame

Tom

I have one I'm willing to part with but it needs some work. $100.

Dean Meyer

1964 Morris Mini Minor Traveller "Wanna see my woody?" - (Having the big
snooze)
1966 Austin-Healey 3000 MK III "The moneypit from Vegas" - (Sealed in an

Andy Warhol time capsule and buried in the yard)
1967 Austin-Healey Sprite MK III "The big block" - (95 BHP Swiftune
Sports Tourer on the way from Longs Corner Farm!)
1974 Land Rover Series III 88" "Kinabalu" - (Where's all the bits?)

Tom Ashworth wrote:

> Hi,
> I'm looking for a 1971 S III frame (used).
> Best,
> Tom Ashworth

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 17 lines)]
> e-mail: staff@sonar.com
> ************************************************************

------------------------------

From: philippe.carchon@rug.ac.be
Date: Wed, 5 Nov 1997 09:44:50 +0100
Subject: few questions

I've got a few questions for you:

1) my LW petrol 2.25 is smoking to when I'm starting, so probably those 
valve seals. Can these be so worn that they are destroying (the oil) my 
spark plugs ? (only on one cilinder). One of them is covered by oil. The car 
also consumes a lot of oil. What's a lot ?  hmmm.... 1 liter/150 km or so...
2) I've replaced one U-joint on the front shaft 3 months ago. It's making 
noise again ('clung-clung') and you can move it when you touch it. Do I have 
to replace the whole shaft or is something else going on ?
3) since I have new tires (Billing 97) (7.50x16) I can drive faster but my 
Hi/Lo selector (the red one) shakes and makes an irritating noise. I know a 
LR isn't quit but this is really 90 % of my noises. I've fasten already a 
bold of the stick under the car but the problem isn't solved. Sugestions ?
4) I'm almost always running on LPG. When I change to petrol and I stop 
after driving, my solex starts to leak. It seems that the carb still 
recieves some fuel but the engin isn't consuming anymore. 
5) I can go one but these were the most important...

Philippe Carchon
Ghent, Belgium
'81 ffr lightweight.
ir. Philippe Carchon
Department of Applied Ecology and Environmental Biology
University of Gent
J. Plateaustraat 22, B-9000 Gent, Belgium
Tel: ++32 9 264 37 76  / Fax:: ++32 9 264 41 99
E-mail: philippe.carchon@rug.ac.be

------------------------------

From: "Davies, Scott" <sdavies@monetpost.stdavids.ncr.com>
Subject: Re: Railco and ramblings
Date: Wed, 05 Nov 97 08:52:00 PST

>The railco bush it is in the top kingpin hole so it does not see most of 
the
>impact of a hard landing. The bush itself is a friction material rather 
like
>brake lining and is there to provide damping for the steering. This is in
>contrast to the coil sprung landrovers which use taper roller bearings for
>top and bottom and a hydraulic damper.

Hmmn, my 110 has a railco bush at the top; last time I checked it had coil 
springs and a hydraulic steering damper:-)

Scott Davies '85 110 2.5D HT

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 05 Nov 1997 10:17:25 +0000
From: Duncan Phillips <dunk@ivanhoe.soc.staffs.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: Kenlowe Hot Start

At 03:43 AM 11/5/97 +0000, you wrote:
>Anyone on the list have direct experience with The Kenlowe Hot Start?? With
>the cold weather approaching I would be intrested in hearing about its
>performance and ease of installation

I fitted one to my 1980 SWB Petrol this summer (while it was warm weather
and the unit was on special offer!!). 

On the performance side, I'd say it was quite good, on a frosty morning,
having it plugged in for 20 mins gets the water temp (but not necessarily
the block temp) up to around normal. I'm finding this particularly useful
at the moment as I'm running on 3 cylinders instead of 4!! (the head's
coming off at the weekend) so starting is difficult anyway.

The unit is thermostatically controlled at about 85 degrees according to
the docs, so there's no danger of blowing the radiator cap off. One point
to be aware of though, is that you MUST have the heater controls set to
hot, otherwise you'll only heat up the water in the heater, not the engine!!

The installation wasn't too bad, basically it fits between the heater and
the engine, replacing the hose that goes between the two.

The main problems I found were where to mount the unit itself (I ended up
mounting it below the radiator overflow reservoir) there are a number of
plates supplied to fabricate brackets with. 

Other than that there were the pipe/cable runs: the pipe runs should be
gentle downwards paths with no kinks or coils, etc. I made one mistake in
that I THOUGHT I'd kept the power cable away from the exhaust manifold -
NOT!!. Fortunately it's armoured heat resistant cable (it must be a common
occurance) so only a bit of the outer sheathing melted!!

Hope this helps

I conclusion I'm glad I bought it!!

*******************************
Duncan Phillips
1980 SWB SIII 'Evie'
http://Gawain.soc.staffs.ac.uk/~cmtdmp/play/lrover/
*******************************

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Nov 1997 06:31:52 -0500 (EST)
From: David Scheidt <david@math.earlham.edu>
Subject: Re: Kenlowe Hot Start

I have something like this fitted to my SIIA.  Unfortunatly, I cannot use
it regularly, as I lack somewhere to put power lead.  As the thing lives
outside, I was wondering if anyone had any experiance with something not
run by AC current.  Like, a propane fired heater, or a 12VDC thing (which
would of course require a second battery and split charge)? 

David

--------
David_Scheidt@math.earlham.edu

yip yip yip yap yap yak yap yip *BANG*  -- no terrier

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 Nov 1997 00:52:39 +1300 (NZDT)
From: Graham Furniss <graham@forum8.co.nz>
Subject: Re: Railco and ramblings

>>The railco bush it is in the top kingpin hole so it does not see most of 
>the
>>impact of a hard landing. The bush itself is a friction material rather 
>like
>>brake lining and is there to provide damping for the steering. This is in
>>contrast to the coil sprung landrovers which use taper roller bearings for
>>top and bottom and a hydraulic damper.
>Hmmn, my 110 has a railco bush at the top; last time I checked it had coil 
>springs and a hydraulic steering damper:-)

Scott,

I sit corrected :). I have not been inside many coiler front axles ( I own a
'72 Range Rover ) and since so much of the coiler stuff is the same across
the different models, I ass-umed the king pins were the same ;) . I didn't
say the presence of railco bushes precluded a hydraulic damper, only that
the absence required one, which I have been told it does (by someone who
tried to do without).

Cheers, Graham.
================================================================================
Graham Furniss                                               graham@forum8.co.nz
Senior Software Engineer/Dev & Opps Manager                  Ph  (64)(3)365 3888
Forum 8 (NZ) Ltd.                                            FAX (64)(3)377 9888
Christchurch
New Zealand.
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