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Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 04:05:26 -0800

------------------------------

From: "Ron Franklin" <oldhaven@mail.biddeford.com>
Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 07:41:56 -0500
Subject: Re: Wiring Harness

On  3 Nov 97 at 6:13, David Cockey wrote:

 Steve Fullwood wrote:
 
 > I have a 1961 LHD Ser II 88" basic.  First off my vehicle seems to be
 > part
 	 [ truncated by lro-lite (was 7 lines)]
 > yea the new harness has all spade cannections and my vehicle has all
 > loop type.
 
 '61 SIIs are transitional. Not all the changes to SIIA configuration
 were made at once. But the parts manuals and wiring diagrams imply there
 were only two major versions of the harness. SIIs have the junction box
 and loop connectors. I sounds like the SII harness would have worked
 okay.
 
 Regards,
 David Cockey

The harness in the early SII 109 I have FS has a horn in the wing with push 
on a stalk, and two fuse boxes next to the ring type regulator ijn addition 
to other small things which probably cross into Series I models, so I would 
think that any SII wiring harness would be hard to duplicate due to the 
transitions which occurred.

Ronnie
 

Bowdoin, Maine, USA

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 8:26:18 -0500
From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Subject: Re: 109 body needed!

Sounds like you already have a donor truck, and are in need of a viable 
restoration candidate;-)

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon,
'81 Honda Goldwing 1100 Standard:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

------------------------------

From: DEFENDER@ibm.net
Date: Mon, 03 Nov 1997 08:59:43 -0500
Subject: STUFF FOR SALE(SORRY FOR THE CONTENT)

    I am not sure if anyone here is going to be interested in any of
this but here goes.

TUFFY console with cup holders and radio harnes
TUFFY trunk
Set of 4 31X1050 ridge runner radials mounted on American Racing
Rims(aprox 3k miles)

If any of you are interested, let me know

WILLIAM PITTMAN
1997 D90 WAGON

------------------------------

Subject: Re: 	Springs
Date: Mon, 3 Nov 97 09:08:59 -0500
From: David Russell <David_R@mindspring.com>

As the debate rages I want to insert a "Thank-you" for all of the 
information posted now and future.

David Russell
http://www.mindspring.com/~david_r
David_R@mindspring.com
1969 SIIA SWB (Pastel Green, 4-speed)
1997 SD (Oxford Blue, 5-speed)
1977 FJ40 (rust, 8-speed (hopefully still))

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 14:20:32 +0000
From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Subject: Re:    Springs

If I might add my two pennorth....
If you *do* decide on aftermarket springs,I would strongly recommend
bashing the bushes out and replacing with genuine bushes *before*
fitting the springs.
I fitted aftermarket springs to my 88" and the rear bushes of the
rear springs lasted a month.Replaced them with aftermarket bushes,
same thing,but about six weeks.Replaced with genuine bushes..well,
they're still there after about five *years*.
What I found (from a spare non-genuine bush I had left over)was
that not only was the inner steel tube not concentric with the outer,
but it wasnt parallel to it either.So it was stressed from day one
without the vehicle even moving!
Cheers
Mike Rooth

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 15:24:18 +0100
From: Franz Parzefall <franz@physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de>
Subject: Re: Springs-was Aftermarket....

Hi Con
> I've never ordered a set of springs for Pig, but built my own set. Having 
> numerous old sets laying about I rearched my own using whatever was 
> necessary. 
Sounds good! How did you do this? One of my nonnetted friends is about
purchasing new springs for his SIIa 109 and I'm sure he'd be very 
interested in the procedure since he's a bit short of money.
cu
Franz
Franz Parzefall                franz@physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de
		   http://www.physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de/~franz
       _______
      [____|\_\==
      [_-__|__|_-]      Brumml, exmil. 1989 Land Rover 110 2.5D
 ___.._(0)..._.(0)__..-
                                  

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 Nov 1997 08:37:07 -0600
From: Steve Fullwood <ansdf@ttacs1.ttu.edu>
Subject: More info on Wiring Harness

  When it arrived I noticed it did not look like what was in my
>truck. 
The wiring for the instruments and ignition was wrong.  Mine seems to have
a IIA instument cluster.  This is where I noticed the most difference (my
old harness had alot more wires coming into the dash than the new SII did)
along with the engine harness. Also the engine harness on mine is exactly
like a IIA and this actually matches.  Is there any problem with bypassing
the junction box in favor of the newer harness and are there any problems
with cutting the spades off and putting on rings? 

Steve Fullwood

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 06:34:56 -0800 (PST)
From: "Paul Gussack" <pcg@tennis.org>
Subject: RE:Springs 

My SIII was listing to the RH (it is a RHD and the springs are old) in an
attempt to assassinate multiple fowl with a singular mineral projectile. I
removed the rear bench in the bed of the truck on the LH side and mounted a
steel footlocker donated by my father ( a disco owner) from his days in the
Navy. (weatherproofing and mounting details may be had if requested).  This
provided me with a balanced very solid riding rover and a whole lot o' tools in
a case that can be removed in just minutes. It is right over the wheel so adds
some traction (maybe I just think so).

 It does have two drawbacks:

1. I am down by two passenger places. (not having that many friends brave
enough to ride in the back of Grendal this has not proved that significant)

2. Some added weight which means the possibility of poor gas and greater chance
of sinking in mud.  

Now if I can just get that engine finished I could really prove these theories

Paul G
SIII SWB "Grendal"

------------------------------

From: debrown@srp.gov
Date: 03 Nov 97 07:54:30 MST
Subject: Re: Welcome Home!!!

From: <debrown@srp.gov>
       PAB219 (602)236-3544 -  Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486
                                    Pers. E-mail: rovernut@hotmail.com
Well... it was starting to snow/sleet, and all I saw was a 109, headlights
in the center bulkhead, bonnet mounted spare, and it was a dark color. I'm
sure it was you... what are the odds of a third 109 being in Flagstaff at
that particular time??

Wish I could have had more time to examine your rig more closely, sounds
really well set up!

Sounds like how I want to set up my 88. I have the military shackles, and
Diesel springs so far... but that's about it. Lot's of dreams and plans, but
that's all for now.

Looking forward to hearing all about your trip!

Dave Brown

 Never give up your life for          #=======#         _____l___
 anything that death can take away.   |__|__|__\___    //__|__|__\___
                        -anonymous    | _|  |   |_ |}  \__ - ____ - _|}
                                      "(_)""""""(_)"      (_)    (_)
=========================================================================
Mime-Version: 1.0
Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 17:46:30 -0800
From: twakeman@scruznet.com (TeriAnn Wakeman)
Subject: Re: Welcome Home!!!
Cc: Land Rover owners <lro@playground.sun.com>

At  1:54 PM 10/30/97 -0700, debrown@srp.gov wrote:

>BTW, were you traveling South - entering Flagstaff on Saturday the 11th of
>October?? (That would have been from Page I think.) I passed by (going
>North) a 109, that returned a wave... was that you? I was driving my
>Limestone 5 door. It did snow and hail that day too!! Very interesting!

I was indeed in Flagstaff Oct 10 and 11. During the AM I was running back &
fourth on #66 picking up supplies & such before heading off North.  I was
Southbound on the road four or five times that day before heading out.

If you saw a British Racing Green 109 two door, with white top in a
standard LR two door two tone paint scheme, and the car had a Dormobile pop
up top, black Manatec snorkle, a loaded roof rack, a bonnet mounted spare,
a winch on the front with military overriders on each side of the winch, a
wing top mounted shovel on the left & a pick head from a removable handle
pick mounted on the bonnet to the right of the spare, headlights mounted on
the radiator bulkhead, diamond plate aluminum wingtop protectors and lower
side skirts. a big whip antenna  on one side of the rear and a vertically
mounted Hi Lift jack on the other side of the rear & a pair of military
rear bumperettes it was probably me.  I don't initate waves to Range Rovers
or Discoveries (Don't want to be sending wrong messages to strange man who
do not know or care that my car is a Land Rover), but I sure return the
waves whenever I see them.

Guess it is a small world.  I had given up on seeing anyone from the list
when I left Portland.

Take care!

TeriAnn Wakeman            For personal mail, please start subject line
Santa Cruz California      with TW.  I belong to 4 high volume mail lists
twakeman@scruznet.com      and do not read a lot of threads..Thanks

"The box said 'Requires Windows 95, or better.' So I bought a Macintosh."

------------------------------

Date: 3 Nov 1997 10:45:06 -0400
From: "LT J Jackson" <lt_j_jackson@unixlink.uscga.edu>
Subject: Commuting in a Series 

I just learned that due to a transfer I'll be making an 80 mile (rt) highway
commute for about ten months, 4 days/week, starting next fall.   Right now my
truck is my daily driver, but I only drive 5 miles to work.  Barely time to
warm it up (and before I swapped to an 88C thermostat, it certainly did NOT
warm up in the winter).  

A few weeks back, a fellow posted a note about how he was using his 109 as a
daily long-haul commuter.  Aside from winning an award from OPEC, things
seemed to be working out.  

So, should I stick with the SIII, or start shopping for Hyundota beaterbox to
flog like one of Her Majesty's conscripts?   My truck is dependable and I
think it could handle the job; it just needs the usual recurring (and
recurring, and recurring) maintenance.   Even the fuel consumption isn't a
deciding factor - by the time I factor in fuel/maint/purchase and insurance on
the beater, the fuel penalty seems cheap.  In sum, I'd prefer to stick with
the Landy, but I don't want to be unreasonable.  Any thoughts on this subject?
   

Jeff  (Gee, maybe I SHOULD have bought the coil conversion) Jackson
Waterford, CT
73 SIII 88 (Camilla)

------------------------------

From: Mark Sullivan <marks@dataflowsys.com>
Subject: RE: 109 body needed!
Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 11:09:18 -0500
[digester: Removing section of:  Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="---- =_NextPart_000_01BCE848.EEB7E610" ]

Actually, I want the engine from the 109 truck for my 109, and the body is up for grabs.
The guy is askin $1500, which is way too much. Take a look at the picture at www.dataflowsys.com/employees/sullivan. There are 4 jpegs.

-----Original Message-----
From:	Adams, Bill [SMTP:badams@usia.gov]
Sent:	Monday, November 03, 1997 8:26 AM
To:	lro@playground.sun.com
Subject:	Re: 109 body needed!

Sounds like you already have a donor truck, and are in need of a viable 
restoration candidate;-)

------ =_NextPart_000_01BCE848.EEB7E610
[digester: Removing section of:  Content-Type: application/ms-tnef ]

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 11:54:02 -0500 (EST)
From: kelliott@intranet.ca (Keith Elliott)
Subject: Re: Value of a Ser III

Hi Dave...

My opinion would be to stick to the $500.00 range for the SIII. I picked up
my SII 88 for the princely sum of $200.00 CDN, the frame was good but in
need of repair to the rear cross member and the engine ran (although I
swapped it out due to the fact that the con rod bearings were toast). I
think that the Series vehicles are plentiful up here in Canada so $1500.00
is way off of what it is worth.

TTYL
Keith

>I have the chance to buy a Ser III Land Rover with a blown engine and a 
>bad frame.  The guy wants $1500 for it but I am inclined to offer between 
>$500 and $800 for it.  It would be a nice parts car if nothing else since 
>the interior is very good and overall the body isn't too bad.  Lots of 
>the stuff will fit my Ser IIA since it is a 69 and most of the stuff I 
>have on mine is really Ser III anyway except the padded dash and the 
>plastic front.  Yes I even have both the inner and outer headlights on 
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 10 lines)]
>plastic front.  Yes I even have both the inner and outer headlights on 
>mine.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 11:54:18 -0500
From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Subject: Body needed...but not that bad!

What a skag! That residue isn't worth more than a couple hundred 
bucks...at most.
Move on to another source and let the owner watch that sad old wreck melt 
into the sand.
If you need an engine, you'd best drop Quintin Aspin a note. He's in 
england RIGHT NOW and can pick up a useful lump for a few hundred. 
QROVER80@AOL.COM

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon,
'81 Honda Goldwing 1100 Standard:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

------------------------------

From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Subject: RE: A Drive in a Freelander (long)
Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 09:12:27 -0800

I think that the Freelander would sell well here in Western Canada
because it sounds about perfect for the task that most people out here
buy 4X4's for -- skiing.  No mud or rock crawling, just long highway
drives followed by a slipper climb up a mountain road.

Paul.

>-----Original Message-----
>From:	David L Glaser [SMTP:dlglaser@wam.umd.edu]
>Sent:	Saturday, November 01, 1997 4:39 AM
>To:	lro@playground.sun.com
>Subject:	Re: A Drive in a Freelander (long)

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 18 lines)]
>I guess you didn't have a chance to try the hill decent system?
>David G

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 12:15:08 -0500 (EST)
From: Russ Wilson <rwilson@usaor.net>
Subject: Headliner

Has anyone dealt with a company in the U.K. called "La Salle Inc"?  They
advertise in LRO for a one piece molded replacement headliner for a 90 that
looks pretty nice in the picture. I have a shredded liner in the pig that
needs to be totally replaced so I was thinking of giving tham a call to see
if they make a model for a trop top 88. Any advice, wisdom or witty retort
is welcome

Russ Wilson
Leslie Bittner

Fort Pitt Land Rover Group

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 12:16:14 -0500 (EST)
From: kelliott@intranet.ca (Keith Elliott)
Subject: Re: Body needed...but not that bad!

>What a skag! That residue isn't worth more than a couple hundred 
>bucks...at most.
>Move on to another source and let the owner watch that sad old wreck melt 
>into the sand.
>If you need an engine, you'd best drop Quintin Aspin a note. He's in 
>england RIGHT NOW and can pick up a useful lump for a few hundred. 
>QROVER80@AOL.COM
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 14 lines)]
>'81 Honda Goldwing 1100 Standard:
>"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

I tend to agree with Bill on this one, pass it up man, I have a 63 109
pickup sitting in my back yard that is in better shape than this one and I
got it for free!!!! (the guy was almost willing to pay me to get it off his
property!!!!)

Keith

------------------------------

From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Subject: RE: After market springs
Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 09:27:21 -0800

Re: Differential weight.

The differentials on a Land Rover are un-sprung weight (they sit on the
axle thus not held up by the springs - unless you're high centered on a
log ;-)

Paul.

>-----Original Message-----
>From:	Faye and Peter Ogilvie [SMTP:ogilvi@hgea.org]
>Sent:	Saturday, November 01, 1997 10:49 AM
>To:	lro@playground.sun.com
>Subject:	Re: After market springs

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 66 lines)]
>>Vintage Rover Service--Since 1994, just about a couple dozen satisfied
>>customers!!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 Nov 1997 14:26:58 -0800
From: "Con P. Seitl" <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Springs-Rebuilding 

Franz Parzefall wrote:
> Hi Con
> > I've never ordered a set of springs for Pig, but built my own set. Having
> > numerous old sets laying about I rearched my own using whatever was
> > necessary.
> Sounds good! How did you do this? One of my nonnetted friends is about
> purchasing new springs for his SIIa 109 and I'm sure he'd be very
> interested in the procedure since he's a bit short of money.
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 19 lines)]
>       [_-__|__|_-]      Brumml, exmil. 1989 Land Rover 110 2.5D
>  ___.._(0)..._.(0)__..-

Well Franz, it is quite simple. To build a set for a 109 shouldn't be much different. 
After removing the front ( or rear ) springs, I disassemble them and remove the old 
spring bushes.Check each leaf for signs of extreme wear or cracks. The important ones to 
look at are the main leaf and the wrap leaf. I then take the main leaf and using it as a 
guide, mark on the floor ( or bench,plywood etc) the arc of it. Now, using my 300 lbs 
anvil and a 5 lbs maul ( hammer) I proceed to arc the main leaf. The best way to do this 
is to hold the leaf in your left palm( if your right handed and with heavy gloves on) 
and strike on the inner surface of the leaf with the maul. Start at the centre where the 
center bolt goes through and work your way to the end.About 1 hit every 1/2" or so. Spin 
the leaf around and repeat, working from the inner surface to the end. Check against the 
marks you made on the floor and you will see that the arc is much greater now. Depending 
on how bad the leaf was to start with, vary the amount of arc, but don't go too much, as 
the distance between the eyes will get too short and will make installation a problem. 
About 1/2" off-center should be good, depending how bad they where to start with. When 
you have what looks good to you, repeat with the remainder leafs.Match the leafs up one 
by one to the main so that they are pretty much similar. If you get a leaf that was 
arched a little more than you wanted, don't worry about it, the bolt will make it lay 
tight and will be also a little stronger. This process of hitting the leafs takes a bit 
of getting used to. The best hit is when the maul lands on the leaf and you get a solid 
hit, the leaf doesn't vibrate, and the maul bounces back up to arms length ready to 
strike again. You will be able to achieve and maintain a good rythmn soon!Just watch all 
that rust come off! When done, reassemble using new center bolts, and an extra fourth 
leaf and reuse leaf plates if you have them, or get new ones from a local spring shop, 
they're easy to put on. Now the fun part, spring bushes. I use genuine bushes to start 
with. Drive the new bushes in using a heavy walled pipe and maul. The pipe should match 
up to the outside diameter of the new spring bush. To aid the removal and installation 
of the bushes, I use a flat chisel driven into the split on the eye of the main 
leaf.This opens the eye a bit and releases some tension. Be careful, the chisel has a 
habit of popping out! Give them a coat of rust paint, and your all set to install. BTW, 
use safety glasses and ear protectors at all times.
    Take a look at which spring set is slightly stronger than the other and use that 
one under the drivers side. Be sure to use new U-bolts when installing,retighten after 
about 50 miles or so. When you install the springs, drive the Rover a few blocks before 
you tighten the bolts that go through the shackle plates as well. this will eliminate 
stress on the bushes and bolts. Hope I haven't totally confused ya all!

Con Seitl
1973 III 88 "Pig"

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 Nov 1997 14:33:50 -0800
From: "Con P. Seitl" <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Valueless LR Ser III

IMHO, I think $200 for the mess is fine, maybe even 300, but unless it's 
got something great in it your not mentioning, like an overdrive, stand 
clear!

Con Seitl
1973 III 88 "Pig"

------------------------------

From: Andy Phillips <AnPi@norsk-data.co.uk>
Subject: RE: Headliner
Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 17:36:00 -0000

In case you didn't find them there, they appear in LROi (so they
_should_ be reputable) and yes, the linings do appear to be quite nice.
I think I shall have a go with 2mm MDF first off though because its so
cheap! I have a 90 hard top so it will help no end to stop the
reverberation of the diesel noise in the back when I have no load there.
If you do get stuck then you might want to have a look at fashioning
something out of thin wood and covering it in a cloth of your choice. I
shall also be adding padding to mine to help with the noise. I got the
idea from LROi. Again, if you didn't see it drop me a line and I'll send
you the details from the article so you can decide if you want to try
it.

Andy.

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	Russ Wilson [SMTP:rwilson@usaor.net]
> Sent:	Monday, November 03, 1997 5:15 PM
> To:	lro@playground.sun.com
> Subject:	Headliner

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 27 lines)]
> Leslie Bittner
> Fort Pitt Land Rover Group

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 09:52:55 -0800
From: twakeman@scruznet.com (TeriAnn Wakeman)
Subject: Re: Old Smokey

At  9:47 AM 11/3/97 +0000, Alan Perfect wrote:
;
>Having recently aquired a '66 IIA, I have noticed that when starting there is
>a large(ish) puff of smoke out of the exhaust.
;
Chances are that this is caused by valve oil seals that are no longer sealing.
When you turn off the engine, some of the oil in the rocker arms will seep
down into the combustion chaimer & burn when you fire up the engine.

This seems to be very common on 2-1/4L land Rovers.  Or at least it is in mine.

TeriAnn Wakeman            For personal mail, please start subject line
Santa Cruz California      with TW.  I belong to 4 high volume mail lists
twakeman@scruznet.com      and do not read a lot of threads..Thanks

"The box said 'Requires Windows 95, or better.' So I bought a Macintosh."

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 09:52:52 -0800
From: twakeman@scruznet.com (TeriAnn Wakeman)
Subject: Re: LROA Desert-Pro Challenge '97

At  4:38 AM 11/3/97 -0500, CIrvin1258@aol.com wrote:

>"Alcohol and firearms will not be permitted."
;
>Well, having been to Fernley, and surrounding areas in September, I can
;honestly say that I would not attend (even if I could), if I could not take a
>firearm with me. If the route takes you north towards Gerlach, or northeast
;towards Lovelock, there's NOTHING between the three points, (this is an
>85-or-more mile strech in either direction we're talking about) and I'd
;rather not take the chance of being stranded there with no protection. Sorry.
;
>Charles
;
Charles, I'm glad to see that you are being a good patriotic American.

You never can tell when you might be attacked by a crazed wild borro or
worse yet a patriotic gun toting American thinking you are infringing upon
his individual space.

I take it that you tote a hidden semiautomatic pistol to the grocery store
in case you get mugged by a poor person.

Be sure & let me know when you are on the trail so I can avoid being
offroading in the same map quadrant.  You might mistake the Green Rover for
a traveling meth lab.

As long as you don't poach on a Grizzley's kill or try to get a good
Buffalo picture with that new superwide camera lense (Both are VERY
unlikely in the desert), you only have your own fears to cause you
problems.

TeriAnn Wakeman            For personal mail, please start subject line
Santa Cruz California      with TW.  I belong to 4 high volume mail lists
twakeman@scruznet.com      and do not read a lot of threads..Thanks

"The box said 'Requires Windows 95, or better.' So I bought a Macintosh."

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 Nov 1997 09:53:59 -0800
From: Jon Morgan <nolo@paralegal.net>
Subject: Re: Assembling a Defender

At 04:39 AM 11/3/97 -0500, David L Glaser wrote:
:A friend of mine is going to england this X-mass and is planning on
:bringing back a D110.  In pieces of course.  He wants to know if there is
:anyone in the NY area that could assemble it for him.

Tell your 'friend' that his intentions will result in a Federal
felony charge for smuggling.  DOT does not look kindly on those
intentionally circumventing DOT/EPA/Customs regulations.

:My closest guess was East Coast Rovers.  And I highly doubt that any
:dealer would do it for legal and insurance reasons.

ERC or any other shop we know would participate in such a scheme,
as it would be their duty to disclose such illegal activity.  Ever
hear of being an accomplice after the fact?
 
-Jon

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 09:54:50 -0800
From: twakeman@scruznet.com (TeriAnn Wakeman)
Subject: Washboard caused damage

Except for breaking a nylon gear in a wiper motor, and inner wing damage
caused by improperly adjusted front wheel stops, I can trace all the damage
done on the Green Rover during my last trip to the extensive driving I did
on washboard surfaces.  Washboard roads seem to be the archilies heel of
leaf spring Land Rovers.  At least they have rattled mine to parts over the
years.  Any fastener not properly secured will come loose and will be left
behind on extensive severe washboard driving.

I think it is essential to spend the time to carefully go over a leaf
spring Rover after a long wash board surface run to check the fasteners.
These surfaces can also point out where your particular car can be
improved.

I used to have a copper vacuum advance line.  My copper line broke at the
connector within minutes of hitting severe wash boarding.  I tried
supporting it with a clamp in the centre.  The tubing lasted a few times
longer but still shook enough to break the tubing at the connector.  I
ended up curing this problem by going to a flexible rubber tubing.
Vibration and fatigue is quickly fatal to unsupported tubing.

This is why the factory clamps brake tubing to a frame or bulkhead surface.
If you look at the rear axle housing you should see that the run out to
the rear brakes have two clamps almost side by side.  When you replace
hydraulic tubing, you should make sure that all the factory clamps are in
place.  If you are making a new hydraulic line run, make sure that there
are no tubing runs that are not properly supported. Even a short length of
unsupported metal tubing can shake and break.

Lots of wash boarding always takes its toll on my car.  This last time, I
had a few body screws fall out (all with lock washers), an engine mount
bracket bolt fell out, sheet metal on my bonnet latch fatigued & broke.
This trip included the most extensive wash boarding I have been on so far
without  spending a weekend going over the car checking things and
tightening bolts.  Each time wash boarding causes me problems I try to
correct them in such a way as to keep it from reoccurring on wash boarding.
This time, the factory lock tabs went on the bolts holding the right
engine mount bracket onto the engine (The factory didn't use tabs on the
left side).  I installed LR military bonnet pull latches to keep the bonnet
from shaking as much on wash boarding.  The bonnet latch will be rebuilt
using a bar of aluminum in place of a sheet steel 'U' bracket.  I'm making
more use of nylon lock nuts.

I have gone through the car to check her condition and tighten things.  I
replaced the transmission mounts.  One was in good shape & one looked to be
showing stress from keeping the engine from escaping. This was the one
diagonally opposite the engine side that dropped two inches & slid an inch
to the right. I used diesel mounts all the way around.  These are a lot
more resistant to shearing than the petrol engine mounts.  They were
installed using new nylon lock nuts.

I need to replace the front brake shoes.  It looks like the master brake
cylinder has an internal leak, but I want to replace the front shoes &
adjust the front before making a decision on the master cylinder since the
second pump is firm.  The shims need adjusting on the front ball joints.
Once that is done, The Green Rover should be back in sound condition and
ready for another expedition.  I wish my bank account was ready to go out
again soon.

TeriAnn Wakeman            For personal mail, please start subject line
Santa Cruz California      with TW.  I belong to 4 high volume mail lists
twakeman@scruznet.com      and do not read a lot of threads..Thanks

"The box said 'Requires Windows 95, or better.' So I bought a Macintosh."

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 10:06:04 -0800
From: twakeman@scruznet.com (TeriAnn Wakeman)
Subject: Re: Welcome Home!!!

At  7:54 AM 11/3/97 -0700, debrown@srp.gov wrote:
>From: <debrown@srp.gov>
>       PAB219 (602)236-3544 -  Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486
>                                    Pers. E-mail: rovernut@hotmail.com
>Well... it was starting to snow/sleet, and all I saw was a 109, headlights
>in the center bulkhead, bonnet mounted spare, and it was a dark color. I'm
>sure it was you... what are the odds of a third 109 being in Flagstaff at
>that particular time??

I don't know the town well enough to know the LR population but it was
probably me.

>Wish I could have had more time to examine your rig more closely, sounds
>really well set up!
>                                    Pers. E-mail: rovernut@hotmail.com

I try, and am still trying to find better ways to make her more bullet proof.
>Sounds like how I want to set up my 88. I have the military shackles, and
>Diesel springs so far... but that's about it. Lot's of dreams and plans, but
>that's all for now.
>Well... it was starting to snow/sleet, and all I saw was a 109, headlights

People in the North West seem t be stuffing Salisbury rear axle housings on
88s.  It should keep you from breaking axles.  How is the drive shaft
angles on the 88 with the extended shackles?  I have heard that it is a
little steep for an 88.  If it is you might try a 1/4 wedge on each side
between the spring & the housing.
>Looking forward to hearing all about your trip!
>Diesel springs so far... but that's about it. Lot's of dreams and plans, but

I have sent out messages about it.  If you missed them, let me know & I
will send them directly to you.
>Dave Brown
>Diesel springs so far... but that's about it. Lot's of dreams and plans, but

Take care

TeriAnn Wakeman            For personal mail, please start subject line
Santa Cruz California      with TW.  I belong to 4 high volume mail lists
twakeman@scruznet.com      and do not read a lot of threads..Thanks

"The box said 'Requires Windows 95, or better.' So I bought a Macintosh."

------------------------------

From: Solihull@aol.com
Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 13:35:48 -0500 (EST)
Subject: AKA winterfronts, was radiator muff

>>So, what is the politically correct name for a radiator muff?

I've seen 'em referred to as Winterfronts. 
Cheers!!
John Dillingham in Woodstock, GA
KF4NAS     LROA #1095
73 s3 swb 25902676b DD "Pansy"
72 s3 swb 25900502a rusted, in suspended animation
Looking for a P5 project, well, OK, or a P6 or another SD1
Vintage Rover Service--Since 1994, just about a couple dozen satisfied
customers!!

------------------------------

From: "John McMaster" <john@chiaroscuro.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 18:47:00 +0000
Subject: Re: Welcome Home!!!

> People in the North West seem t be stuffing Salisbury rear axle housings on
> 88s.  It should keep you from breaking axles.  How is the drive shaft
> angles on the 88 with the extended shackles?  I have heard that it is a
> little steep for an 88.  If it is you might try a 1/4 wedge on each side
> between the spring & the housing.

As the spring plates have to be rewelded (got to be moved inboard 
from 109") just angle the whole casing nose up a little.  I ran 
Salisbury rears on both my 88"s.

john
______________________
John McMaster
john@chiaroscuro.co.uk

green/purple 110/Massey Ferguson

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 13:51:36 -0500 (EST)
From: kelliott@intranet.ca (Keith Elliott)
Subject: Stalling with choke.

Hi Everyone...

   Just a quick question here about my 2.25 petrol with Solex carb... I
can't start it with the choke pulled out more than a hair. When I pull the
choke out while it is running it just stalls the engine, I would guess that
it is flooding maybe??? Why would this happen? I have tried 2 different
Solex carbs and both do the exact same thing, one of which was working fine
on a previous engine. The only thing that I changed on one of the carbs was
the accelerator pump.

Thanks

Keith

1961 Series II 88"
Ottawa

------------------------------

From: Solihull@aol.com
Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 14:03:15 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re:  Commuting in a Series 

Eighty miles, round trip, eh? Not too bad. At least it'll be able to get
warmed up. I'd be more worried about your kidneys and ears that the truck,
Jeff. A couple ideas to help out;
1. Install a block heater, even if it is a gas. I've got one on Pansy and it
makes for a more pleasant morning drive.
2. Electronic ignition- Pertronix ignitor for about $100 or allison for $200
3. Lots of Dynamat
4. 80w90 oil in the trans, transfer case, diffs and swivels. You'll tell a
difference when you pump it in. 

Anybody else?

Cheers!!
John Dillingham in Woodstock, GA
KF4NAS     LROA #1095
73 s3 swb 25902676b DD "Pansy" FS $7000 obo
72 s3 swb 25900502a rusted, in suspended animation
Looking for a P5 project, well, OK, or a P6 or another SD1
Vintage Rover Service--Since 1994, just about a couple dozen satisfied
customers!!

------------------------------

From: "Christian Szpilfogel" <Christian.Szpilfogel.chrisz@nt.com>
Subject: '62 IIA 88" SW For Sale
Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 13:06:42 -0600

Posting this for one of our locals who does not have internet
access yet. He has just pretty much completed a restoration of
this vehicle including new aluminum skins and a complete paint
job. The fellow is an ex-mechanic which is a bonus in the
job quality. The paint work was also done professonally at a
body shop owner by an OVLR member (yes Roy's shop).

Details...

Stock Series IIA 88" SW, 1962
Safari Roof
35K Miles
Ground up restoration; sound proofing kit not yet installed
   but available.
Asking price US$8000

Contact: Bruce Dawson
         1-613-831-6381
         Ottawa, Ontario, Canada

Cheers,
  -Christian
   '72 SIII 88" (starting to look really nice now)
   '95 Discovery

------------------------------

From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 14:22:16 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Springs

In a message dated 97-11-02 21:38:16 EST, you write:

<< One of the reasons for sagging springs is *tight* bolts.  They aren't 
 supposed to be.
 
 If the shackle plate touches the spring or its bushing, it'll "pre-laod" the

 springs, in essence fixing them in one position and leading to a premature 
 demise.  There should be 1/32" to 1/16" clearance - the width of a thin 
 screwdriver blade - between the bush and the spring so both can move freely.
 >>

Sandy,

I may be wrong here, but I think the manual states to tighten the shackle
bolt to 60 or 65 ft-lbs then tighten the upper nut to the same torque.  Is
this not the way most folks are doing their springs?

Nate

------------------------------

From: RoverNut@aol.com
Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 14:38:25 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: ODed.

In a message dated 97-11-01 08:00:40 EST, you write:

<< This thing looks so much like a Fairey from the top but holds more oil.
 I've heard the Toro does hold more oil. But are they this much of a copy?
 
 Bob B >>

Pretty close.
They are pretty dear since they are tough to find, hold much more oil, and
don't use those damn fragile needle bearings.
Hang on to it!

Alex Maiolo
93 110
69 IIA
89 RR

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 14:38:01 -0500 (EST)
From: Russ Wilson <rwilson@usaor.net>
Subject: Headliner answers

Thanks to all who had something to say on the headliner question....I did
manage to get intouch with La Salle in the U.K. and if anyone is interested
here is the scoop....  Yes, they do make a one piece molded headliner
replacement for the 88.  The super delux model for the trop top with a
shelf in the front over the windscreen and a place for a radio is 170
British Pounds.... which by my math
1.6 X 170 = $272.00 US greenbacks.  This is a touch on the expensive side
but after talking to a friend who has seen this company's product on a 109
I just may do it.  The kicker is the shipping....  about $100 U.S.   Anyone
else want a nice new headliner that lives in the Pittsburgh to D.C. area???
just a stab in the dark...

Russ Wilson
Leslie Bittner

Fort Pitt Land Rover Group

------------------------------

From: CIrvin1258@aol.com
Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 15:44:28 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Washboard caused damage

"Washboard roads seem to be the achillies heel of leaf spring Land Rovers"

So are lousy mechanics.

I took my 109 over 80 miles of washboard roads when I was in Nevada, and had
nothing come loose. Perhaps the person that tightened everything on your
truck was weak.

Charles

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 Nov 1997 21:59:57 +0100
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Subject: Re: springs
[digester: Removing section of:  Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="------------8A3B7E8910256011B5A1F1CE" ]

what extra leaf? my (genuine LR spares) have 11 leaves (deisel) or 9
leaves (petrol) just like it says in the manual - the only difference
seems to be the cambering or pre-tensioning
-- 
Adrian Redmond

---------------------------------------------------
CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
---------------------------------------------------
telephone (office)		    +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)		    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data		    +45 76 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)		    +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)		    +45 40 50 22 66
mobile NMT			    +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail			     channel6@post2.tele.dk
HoTMaiL (www.e-mail)	channel6denmark@hotmail.com
---------------------------------------------------
--------------8A3B7E8910256011B5A1F1CE

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 16:41:47 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Good patriotic americans

In a message dated 11/3/97 12:52:52 PM, you wrote:

>Charles, I'm glad to see that you are being a good patriotic American.

I'm glad to see him exercise his right to free speech, his opinion (or yours)
is what is debatable, and is unrelated to patriotism & rover ownership.

>You never can tell when you might be attacked by a crazed wild borro or
>worse yet a patriotic gun toting American thinking you are infringing upon
>his individual space.

I had my rover parked off a trail in public land, hidden behind a bunch of 
pinion pine in New Mexico, and I was awakened by an armed couple (with a 
shotgun-type thingy) tapping on the window. Thank your local deity that we
all 
were of the "ask first" type of person. Turns out they
were bogged down in a sandy arroyo and needed help getting out. (The fact
that it *wasn't* hunting season made me think twice, though)

As for crazed wild burros, I've only encountered them in the crazy wild
boroughs
of New York ;-). And a good swing with a high-lift will keep most of them at
60 inches' distance...

>Be sure & let me know when you are on the trail so I can avoid being
>offroading in the same map quadrant.  You might mistake the Green Rover for
>a traveling meth lab.

Same map quadrant? What scale are we talking here? You still wouldn't be safe
from the (x-russian arsenal)nuclear-bomb totin' Montana Militia... And we all
know how 
*patriotic* they all are.

pat
93 "unarmed, except for wit" 110

------------------------------

From: RoverNut@aol.com
Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 16:44:08 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: No Subject

In a message dated 97-11-01 08:00:40 EST, you write:

<< >Last night with the help of two friends, I took the roof of the Rover
 >and pushed it into the garage.  The BMW now sits out in the rain :-) >>

Got THAT licked... 
My fiancee sold our 525i so I could buy a 110. She drives the RR now.
I can't get to the alter soon enough!

Alex Maiolo
Hillsborough NC

69 IIa
89RR
93 (exBMW, still kind of BMW) 110

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 16:16:01 -0500
Subject: Re: Commuting in a Series

Do it. No question.

I just transferred ouit of Cambridge, MA to another facility closer to my
home. Prior to that, Mr. Churchill and I did a 65-mile commute daily for
the past 2.5 years. No fuss, no muss, no nonsense.

I've put over 40K miles on that silly old 109 since I rebuilt it....and I
have no worries about the next 40K.

No beater - Rover!

               Alan R./Mr. Churchill

------------------------------

From: "Eyres, Richard RP" <Eyres.Richard.RP@bhp.com.au>
Subject: Re: LROA Desert-Pro Challenge '97
Date: Tue, 4 Nov 1997 10:02:00 +1100 

 ----------
From: CIrvin1258@aol.com
Subject: Re: LROA Desert-Pro Challenge '97
Date: Monday, 3 November 1997 20:38

"Alcohol and firearms will not be permitted."

>Well, having been to Fernley, and surrounding areas in September, I can
>firearm with me. If the route takes you north towards Gerlach, or
northeast
>towards Lovelock, there's NOTHING between the three points, (this is an
>85-or-more mile strech in either direction we're talking about) and I'd
>rather not take the chance of being stranded there with no protection.
Sorry.
>Charles
>85-or-more mile strech in either direction we're talking about) and I'd

Protection from what?

Richard

------------------------------

From: "Lowe, Dave J" <LoweDJ@BP.com>
Subject: RE: Land Rover 6-cyl engines
Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 17:19:59 -0500

The Land Rover 2.6L engine is a detuned 3.0L care engine which is
destroked.  Two versions were available.  the Euro version has the
intake manifold built into the head, and has a compression ratio of 7 to
1.  

The NADA 2.6L model looks externally very similar if not identical to
the 3.0L Rover car engine.  However it has been destroked to give 2.6L
displacement.  It has a compression ratio of 8 to 1.  The main
difference between the 2.6 NADA engine and the 2.6 Euro engine is the
head.  The NADA engine has the "Westlake head" which has the rocker arm
assembly which bolts to the top of the head and the and a seperate
longer bolt on intake manifold.  The westlake head is the same as on the
3.0 Rover car engine.  This head and intake manifold provide better
breathing than the Euro 2.6 and hence put out more horsepower and
torque.  They also have different water pumps.

The problem is that there were only 814 or so of these engines imported
in NADA 2.6L to North America, hence parts are hard to find.  The 2.6L
Euro engine has readily avialable parts as these were exported
throughout the world.

I have worked on both the 2.6L NADA and the Euro in the last year for
friends.  If you have a choice of engines and are concerned about long
term part availability, get a Euro version even though it puts out less
power, it will have more parts available in the long run.

I just this weekend stripped the head of a 2.6 Euro engine and compared
the head to a 2.6 NADA version with both of them on the same workbench.
The NADA head will not fit on a RH drive machine because of clearance
problems with the steering gear.  It also does not match up to the water
pump.  I think the blocks are identical, but the heads, and water pumps
I know are different.

Hope this helps.  If you want to talk in more detail about 3.0L Rover
engines, 2.6L NADA and 2.6 Euro Land Rover Engines and parts
interchangeablility, give me a call.  I have worked on all three withing
the last few weeks, and am considering using a 3.0L engine to put in my
NADA 109 Safari Wagon which came without and engine and trans.

	Dave Lowe
	(907)564-4792 wk
	(907)345-6854 hm

> ----------
> From: 	Christopher H. Dow[SMTP:dow@thelen.org]
> Reply To: 	lro@playground.sun.com
> Sent: 	Sunday, November 02, 1997 12:03 PM
> To: 	lro@playground.sun.com
> Subject: 	Land Rover 6-cyl engines

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 26 lines)]
> Thanks,
> C

------------------------------

From: RINGO JACK <RINGOJACK@aol.com>
Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 17:52:11 EST
Subject: Car Wash Engine Problem

I own a 96 Disco and have experienced engine trouble after a self done car
wash.  I sprayed the engine off lightly with one of those high pressure
squirters but never applied full pressure, just gently washed it.  When I
started it there was no problem, and I pulled out and drove for about 2 miles
and then the RPM's started dropping when it was idle.  Instead of being idle
around 1000RPMS, it would drop to around 3-2 hundred RPM's and sputter and
blow out black smoke.  Then it would just stall if I didn't keep applying gas
to it, in order to keep the RPM's up.  What in the hell was wrong?? its
happened twice!!  Someone must have the same problem.  I thought this vehicle
could ford rivers?? The damn thing can't survive a car wash, so how can it do
that??

Mark Roby
A concerned rover owner

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 Nov 1997 15:58:24 -0700
From: Rick Grant <rgrant@cadvision.com>
Subject: Re: Washboard caused damage

>I took my 109 over 80 miles of washboard roads when I was in Nevada, and had
>nothing come loose. 

I did about two hours of washboarded forestry trunk roads on the weekend in
the foothills and I was astonished at the number of things that rattled
loose in my machine.  Wing attachment bolts, radio mounting, hood latch, a
seat belt fastening and others.  Even stuff that was lockwashered loosened.
Maybe I should just epoxy everything in place<g>.

			Rick Grant

			1959, SII   "VORIZO"  

rgrant@cadvision.com	
www.cadvision.com/rgrant
Cobra Media Communications.  Calgary, Canada
Aboriginal and International Relief Issues

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 Nov 1997 15:58:26 -0700
From: Rick Grant <rgrant@cadvision.com>
Subject: Removing exhaust pipe bolts

Any tips on how to safely remove the nuts holding the exhaust pipe to the
manifold?  They're pretty heat corroded.  Apart from wrapping them in rags
soaked in pentetrating oil for a day or so is there anything else that might
help?

			Rick Grant

			1959, SII   "VORIZO"  

rgrant@cadvision.com	
www.cadvision.com/rgrant
Cobra Media Communications.  Calgary, Canada
Aboriginal and International Relief Issues

------------------------------

From: "Lowe, Dave J" <LoweDJ@BP.com>
Subject: 3.5 Engine into a SIIA?
Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 18:09:51 -0500

I have an opportunity to pick up a 3.5 V8 for a good price that needs a
rebuild.  It is out of a 88 Range Rover.  I need an engine and trans to
put into my 68 NADA 2.6 109 Safari Wagon which I picked up recently
without an engine or transmission.

Anyone out there had any experience putting the 3.5 V8 into and old
series rover that originally had a 2.6 engine in it.?

What transmission and transfer case is ideal for this conversion?

Any pointers on the lowest prices for rebuild parts for the 3.5 or cheap
places to find a wiring harness and computer to run the fuel injection
system?

Dave Lowe

------------------------------

From: "Lowe, Dave J" <LoweDJ@BP.com>
Subject: RE: Removing exhaust pipe bolts
Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 18:12:04 -0500

Heat them up until red hot with a torch, then loosen them with a wrench.
It works every time for rusted parts.

> ----------
> From: 	Rick Grant[SMTP:rgrant@cadvision.com]
> Reply To: 	lro@playground.sun.com
> Sent: 	Monday, November 03, 1997 1:58 PM
> To: 	lro@playground.sun.com
> Subject: 	Removing exhaust pipe bolts

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 32 lines)]
> Cobra Media Communications.  Calgary, Canada
> Aboriginal and International Relief Issues

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 18:15:05 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re:  Assembling a Defender

In a message dated 11/3/97 4:32:50 AM, you wrote:

>A friend of mine is going to england this X-mass and is planning on
>bringing back a D110.  In pieces ofcourse.  He wants to know if there is
>anyone in the NY area that could assemble it for him.

Someone needs to assemble a Land Rover from pieces, in NY? Hmmmm...

Sounds like a *nudge-nudge, wink-wink* kinda thing, but I'm sure it is
do-able
as it has probably been done up there once or twice before ;-)

Best of luck, and good luck getting all the bits and parts in the overhead
bins; the
engine will probably have to go in checked luggage though...

pat
93  110

------------------------------

From: n4ptk@InfoAve.Net
Date: Mon, 03 Nov 1997 17:20:19 -0800
Subject: Re: Removing exhaust pipe bolts

Hi,
	If I can get to the nuts, I usually use a thin cutter disk on
my 4" Mikata (sp) grinder and cut the nut from the size until I just
get into the threads.  Usually the nut is hot by this time and will
crack on through making it easy to turn off.  I then "chase" the
threads on the stud with the proper die using cutting oil. 

	By the way, I always use Permatex "Anti-Seize" on all bolts
and nuts on the engine that might seize up.  This stuff makes them
easy to remove months and months later, even steel bolts in aluminum, etc.

Larry
n4ptk@infoave.net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 Nov 1997 18:42:45 -0500
From: David L Glaser <dlglaser@wam.umd.edu>
Subject: Re: Assembling a Defender

> Tell your 'friend' that his intentions will result in a Federal
> felony charge for smuggling.  DOT does not look kindly on those
> intentionally circumventing DOT/EPA/Customs regulations.

First of all, it really is a friend, he's not subscribed to the list,
and he asked me to post the question for him.  I don't have enough money
for a plane ticket to England, let alone a Defender.

Yes, there is that risk of smuggling, which I guess was never thought
of.  But, whats illegal about a bunch a used car parts?

David G

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 Nov 1997 18:36:21 -0500
From: Mike Johnson <johnsonm@borg.com>
Subject: Re: Car Wash Engine Problem

At 05:52 PM 11/3/97 EST, Mark Roby wrote:
I sprayed the engine off lightly with one of those high pressure
squirters but never applied full pressure, just gently washed it.  When I
started it there was no problem, and I pulled out and drove for about 2 miles
and then the RPM's started dropping when it was idle.  Instead of being idle
around 1000RPMS, it would drop to around 3-2 hundred RPM's and sputter and
blow out black smoke.  Then it would just stall if I didn't keep applying gas
to it, in order to keep the RPM's up.  What in the hell was wrong?? its
happened twice!!  Someone must have the same problem.  I thought this vehicle
could ford rivers?? The damn thing can't survive a car wash, so how can it do
that??

Mark,
You may want to ask this question in the Coil Spring group,  we here in the
leaf spring group NEVER wash our Land Rovers as dirt is an integral part, a
glue if you will, of our beloved trucks.

But to try to answer,  Fording a stream actually allows very little water
in to the engine compartment if done correctly.  And the water which does
get in isn't with as much force as a carwash pressure sprayer.  It ( your
LR) probably got water into one of the various electrical thing-a-ma-jigs
et al.

Mike Johnson
74 SIII 88 (Chester) 
johnsonm@borg.com
http://www.borg.com/~johnsonm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 Nov 1997 15:44:33 -0800
From: Jon Morgan <nolo@paralegal.net>
Subject: Re: LROA Desert-Pro Challenge '97

At 10:02 AM 11/4/97 +1100, Eyres, Richard RP wrote:
:"Alcohol and firearms will not be permitted."
:
:>Well, having been to Fernley, and surrounding areas in September, I can
:>firearm with me. If the route takes you north towards Gerlach, or
:>northeast towards Lovelock, there's NOTHING between the three points,
:>(this is an 85-or-more mile stretch in either direction we're talking
:>about) and I'd rather not take the chance of being stranded there with
:>no protection. Sorry, Charles
:
:Protection from what?
:Richard

Besides Fernley, the only thing east of Reno is the Mustang Ranch
(or so I've heard!).  For 'protection' you might be better off to
take along some prophylactics (or a rubber suit ;)... but firearms?

Jon

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 Nov 1997 18:47:34 -0500
From: Mike Johnson <johnsonm@borg.com>
Subject: cool tool was: Removing exhaust pipe bolts

I just bought what I think is the niftiest tool, it's a cordless Dremel.  I
now have a house full of "Experiments".  There is no safe place to hide
from me and my Dremel with H.D. cutting disk.  I can't wait to lay waste to
some stubborn nuts and bolts...

Mike Johnson
74 SIII 88 (Chester) 
johnsonm@borg.com
http://www.borg.com/~johnsonm

------------------------------

From: "Lowe, Dave J" <LoweDJ@BP.com>
Subject: RE: Car Wash Engine Problem
Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 18:59:12 -0500

Mark,

Try putting some dielectric grease on all of your electrical fitting and
then reconnecting them.  Moisture is a common problem in marine
applications and the dielectric grease prevents corrosion and or water
entry which effectively shorts outs the sensors.  I supsect the problem
you encountered by using this grease as a simple sealing mechanism to
prevent the entry of unwanted water.

You may also want to consider a less agressive approach to keeping your
engine compartment clean.  High pressure washers can cut wiring loom
covers and inject water where it is not wanted.  I have found that if
you warm up the engine, spray it down from a spray bottle with simple
green, and then let it sit for a few minutes, and brush with a soft tip
parts cleaning brush, you can them rinse off the engine with a hot water
garden hose.  Thsi actually cleans better in my experience than high
pressure washers.  It is particularly effective at making all that nice
bare aluminum clean up and look good.

So pull all of your electrical connection, one at a time, blow them out
with compressed air followed by a little electrical contact cleaner, let
them dry off, then apply dielectric grease into the female end of the
connection, and reassemble.  Them use the simple green, parts cleaning
brush, and hot water rinse approach to cleaning your engine.  I think
you will have many trouble free miles with this approach.

Dielectric grease if you have not heard of it is just a non conducting
grease designed to prevent corrosion on electrical cotacts.   It is also
useful to help water proof connections.  It is designed specifically for
electrical connections and is a good idea to use on any electircal
injection system that relies on accurate readings of resistance on
various sensors to provide the correct mixture on electronically fuel
injected engines.

Hope this helps you.  Let me know the results if your try it.

Dave Lowe
> ----------
> From: 	Mike Johnson[SMTP:johnsonm@borg.com]
> Reply To: 	lro@playground.sun.com
> Sent: 	Monday, November 03, 1997 2:36 PM
> To: 	lro@playground.sun.com
> Subject: 	Re: Car Wash Engine Problem

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 52 lines)]
> johnsonm@borg.com
> http://www.borg.com/~johnsonm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 Nov 1997 20:54:50 -0800
From: "Con P. Seitl" <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: springs

Adrian Redmond wrote:
> This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
> --------------8A3B7E8910256011B5A1F1CE
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
> what extra leaf? my (genuine LR spares) have 11 leaves (deisel) or 9
> leaves (petrol) just like it says in the manual - the only difference

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 41 lines)]
> end:            vcard
> --------------8A3B7E8910256011B5A1F1CE--

I guess some clarification is in order. I always throw in an extra leaf 
when rebuilding old sets. This helps offset the rust that gets beaten off 
them and the age of the other leafs. Sort of balances them off if you 
know what I mean. Having a good supply of old leaves helps, but if you 
don't, slip in a new leaf from your local spring shop, about 5 from the 
bottom. Now you got a 10 leafer, ( or 12 leafer !) Remember, your driving 
a Rover, be creative ) , besides, I won't see it from my livingroom!

Con Seitl
1973 III 88 "Pig"

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 Nov 1997 19:31:58 -0500
From: Brian Cramer <defender@mail.uscom.com>
Subject: subscribe

subscribe lro

------------------------------

From: CIrvin1258@aol.com
Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 19:46:37 -0500 (EST)
Subject: TeriAnn's ignoance

Gosh...I must have hit a sore spot here...

What's the big deal, TW? Are you against the private ownership of firearms? I
suppose that if I had complained about alcohol not being permitted, I would
have gotten a more friendly response - or would you then suggest that I was
an alcoholic?

I simply stated a fact: That area is VERY remote, you're lucky to find a call
box out there - IF there is a call box out there!

What do you have against poor people? I have nothing against them. In fact, I
live in a very poor area (since you're into that kind of crap, I'm sure
you've heard of Compton), and have lived here all  my life, because people
with ideas like yours won't let people like us go anyplace else! Ever walk
down a street in El Segundo, and have people cross the street JUST to pass
you by? I have, and I wasn't dressed any differently from them.

Question: Have you ever been held up at gunpoint? I have, and it's not a
pleasant thing, and while I'm more likely to have something like that happen
in California (face it - people in Nevada are MUCH more friendly, and you
have proven that with your post), why take chances? You never know who you're
going to meet out there.

I can't even compliment you on your trip without getting bashed. I've never
met you, and this is the treatment that I get? I don't care one bit about
your socialist views, but I did nothing to you, so what's your problem?

You must be into drugs, since you mentioned a mobile meth lab. Don't worry -
for I firmly believe that people can do to themselves whatever they wish - it
matters none to me, but if you are selling your drugs, please: only sell them
to people that want them, and don't try to "push" them onto people, for the
purpose of creating more business for yourself. Also - try to cut down on the
amount that you send into Compton,Wilmington, Long Beach, and San Pedro,
because the addicts here tend to steal things and resell them for drug money
when they run out of cash, and while I haven't had any problems, the local
police are kinda slow when it comes to responding, thank you.

You're obviously a very hateful person, and as such, people here should
probably take a closer look at any advice you give them, since you'll
probably give them bad advice, just for laughs. And don't worry - if I see
you broken down on the side of the road, I'll stop to help you anyway, though
I'll be cautious, since you seem to be the type that'll sick your dog on me,
only for asking you what time it is.

Charles Irvin     Member of the Spectre Club (1st ACW, USAF, Hurlburt, Fl.)
British Airwais Cargo/LAX
1959 SII 88 petrol
1962 SIIa 109 diesel

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 Nov 1997 19:49:11 -0500
From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com>
Subject: Brake Pipes (was Re: Washboard caused damage)

> I used to have a copper vacuum advance line.  My copper line broke at
> the
> connector within minutes of hitting severe wash boarding....
> This is why the factory clamps brake tubing to a frame or bulkhead
> surface.

Copper work-hardens and fatigues very easily. Mild steels are very
fatigue resistant. This is the reason for warnings not to use copper for
fuel lines or brake pipes, and why coated mild steel is used instead.

I've seen claims that work hardening and fatigue are not a problem with
the corrosion resistant copper alloy brake lines from the UK. The claims
are that the alloy composition is not as suceptable to fatigue as soft
copper, and that the lines don't fatigue if properly supported. While
the alloy may be much better than soft copper I doubt it is as good as
steel. I'd have more faith in the properly mounted argument for a
vintage vehicle which is occasionally driven on smooth roads only.

Check in particular under clamps for corrosion. An previously
functioning, original, 1960 rear axle brake pipe broke in two at a clamp
as I was removing it.

Regards,
David Cockey

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 Nov 1997 19:59:06 -0800
From: Dave Place <dplace@mb.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Numbering of the messages by the Major

When the daily digest comes up it lists all the messages by number but 
these numbers don't show up on the headers of the messages.  This makes 
it quite difficult to read individual messages without going through the 
entire list.  Is there a way to get the Major to number the messages 
sequentially as it does at the beginning of the digest so we can read 
only the ones we want?

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 20:41:59 -0500 (EST)
From: Russ Wilson <rwilson@usaor.net>
Subject: Re: 3.5 Engine into a SIIA?

>Anyone out there had any experience putting the 3.5 V8 into and old
>series rover that originally had a 2.6 engine in it.?
I think Quintin Aspen has just such a vehicle in his back yard right now.
3 door 109 with a 3.5 v8 in it...... fast, scary fast.

Russ Wilson
Leslie Bittner

Fort Pitt Land Rover Group

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 Nov 1997 21:50:59
From: James Wolf <J.Wolf@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: ole' smokey

Subject: Old Smokey
Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 09:47:38 -0000

Having recently aquired a '66 IIA, I have noticed that when starting =
there is a large(ish) puff of smoke out of the exhaust. Early in a =
morning it will carry on smoking (but only about a third as much) until =
the engine is warm and the choke can go fully in. (It is oil smoke & not =
hot air)

Once running it is fine, no smoke in any conditions. I suspect that the =
engine has done around 47K (it is a 2.25 Petrol) and am hoping that this =
is some sort of carburettor (it has a Weber fitted) problem rather than =
a goosed engine (although I would expect there to be some wear & tear
            Can anyone provide me with any pointers as to what may be the
cause

I believe your valve guide seals are worn. This is not a great problem, as
long as the smoking stops after the engine warms up

Jim Wolf

------------------------------

Date: 	Mon, 3 Nov 1997 14:24:13 -1000
From: Wayne Haight <whaight@hawaii.edu>
Subject: Statistics

FWIW - I believe statistics show that people who carry weapons run a
significantly higher risk of getting hurt/killed than those that don't.
Just by carrying a weapon you put yourself in a high risk category. 

-- 
Wayne R. Haight
Senior Fisheries Research Specialist
Joint Institute for Marine and Atmospheric Research
2570 Dole Street
Honolulu, Hawaii 96822

------------------------------

From: "Eyres, Richard RP" <Eyres.Richard.RP@bhp.com.au>
Subject: RE: Headliner
Date: Tue, 4 Nov 1997 14:32:00 +1100 

Another easy idea is to fix carpet to the roof. I did this in my S3 SWB
hard top, and this made quite a difference. Quite cheap and easy to do.
In my case I used marine grade carpet (the type with out any backing so
it is nice and soft and easy to work with) This is available in a
reasonable range of colours. I got mine from a local upholstery shop. I
used contact adhesive(brush on to roof and aerosol spray can on back of
carpet) I also fitted the carpet while I had the top off (and turned
upside-down)for fitting a roll bar, so it was easy to do. I imagine it
would could be somewhat fiddly and messy to do in situ. Watch for the
glue fumes too! The finished result looked pretty good, cut down noise,
and also prevented condensation. Sadly it had only a marginal effect on
the 'spouse acceptability ratio' (she still hates it!)
Richard   1973 S3 SWB with Holden(GM Australia) 6 Cylinder
New Zealand

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 18:57:35 -0800 (PST)
From: scooper@scooper.seanet.com (John & Sandy Cooper)
Subject: Help! I can't unsubscribe

I've been trying to unsubscribe putting the message in the message text:
 unsubscribe land-rover-list  and I tried  unsubscribe land-rover-owner but 
I keep getting the message that the list name is invalid.  How do I stop
this thing????

-John

------------------------------

From: lenny@fof.coracle.com (Lenny Warren)
Date: 02 Nov 97 21:49:52 +0000
Subject: valve stem oil seals and head gaskets.

From: lenny@fof.coracle.com (Lenny Warren)
Hi there folks,

Time to do the valve stem oil seals on my ser 3 diesel. I can get the
genuine decoke kit for 32UKP or a Paddocks for 10UKP.

Do you think it's better to spend the money on the genuine? Or would the
pattern head gasket and valve stem oil seals be ok????

Please reply direct as my digest is playing up!!

Thanks folks!!

Catch you later,
/_Lenny_/...

*e* *-* *mail*  lenny@fof.coracle.com

... Land-Rovers: The best 4x4xFar!
--- Terminate 5.00/Pro /*Land-Rover*/ /_Best_/ /_4x4xFAR_/
--
| Fidonet:  Lenny Warren 2:258/1.12
| Internet: lenny@fof.coracle.com

------------------------------

From: Michael Slade <slade@imagina.com>
Subject: Re:  Assembling a Defender
Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 20:15:23 -0700

>In a message dated 11/3/97 4:32:50 AM, you wrote:
>>A friend of mine is going to england this X-mass and is planning on
>>bringing back a D110.  In pieces ofcourse.  He wants to know if there is
>>anyone in the NY area that could assemble it for him.
>Someone needs to assemble a Land Rover from pieces, in NY? Hmmmm...

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 20 lines)]
>pat
>93  110

Yeah, I agree with Pat.  Just stay away from Hyde Park, and anyone with the
last name of Klopping, and you should come out fine.

If you have any questions about the aforementioned individuals, don't be
afraid to ask.  I wish I had done that 15K dollars ago.  OUCH!

Later,

Michael Slade
'90 RR
Portland, OR

------------------------------

From: BarrieWyLR <BarrieWyLR@aol.com>
Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 23:47:41 EST
Subject: Re: 109 Truck Body

Hi Mark,
Is the truck still available,& what year & series.  My brother can pick it up
for me. call or e-mail me.  307-742-9145,  BarrieWYLR@aol.com.  I did try to
e-mail you directly but it came back to me sorry.

Barrie
60SII "Rugbeater"

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 Nov 1997 23:36:33 -0500
From: Dean Meyer <Dean.Meyer@internord.net>
Subject: NRC7314 and NRC7315

Ladies and gentlemen,

What the heck are these two parts listed in my parts manual as
protection plates? They are kind of home made looking aluminum things
bolted between the spring plate and spring. Anyone know what the heck
they do?

1964 Morris Mini Minor Traveller "Wanna see my woody?" - (Having the big

snooze)
1966 Austin-Healey 3000 MK III "The moneypit from Vegas" - (Sealed in an
Andy Warhol time capsule and buried in the yard)
1967 Austin-Healey Sprite MK III "The big block" - (95 BHP Swiftune
Sports Tourer on the way from Longs Corner Farm!)
1974 Land Rover Series III 88" "Kinabalu" - (Where's all the bits?)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 22:38:27 -0800 (PST)
From: Mike Macdonald <mkmacd@seanet.com>
Subject: Early Series Wiper Motors

Quick question for the digest crew......

I have recently disassembled, cleaned, regreased and re-assembled the wiper
motors on my Series I - a fairly straightforward task thanks to the help
texts in the various FAQ's around the 'net.  And now they work again!  They
are the round shouldered, independent motors.  The question I have
is....What goes on the cab-side end of the rotating shaft to hold it in place?  

The motors when I got them had nothing on the back end of the shaft, and I
didn't notice until I had cleaned them that the shaft can all but slide out
the back (inside side) of the casings.  The ends of the shafts are threaded,
but what went on them? Was it some sort of cap that has a lip on it that
would ride on the inside rim of the hole in the casing?

My thanks in advance for the information.

Mike MacDonald
1957 Series I 88" - don Quixote

------------------------------

From: "FHYap" <FHYap@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Removing exhaust pipe bolts
Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 22:57:16 -0800

.  Apart from wrapping them in rags
> soaked in pentetrating oil for a day or so is there anything else that
might
> help?

And even that may not work.  I tried and finally had to give up.

I finally had to have a friend use his welding torch to heat them to get
them loose.

Frank

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 23:07:37 -0800
From: twakeman@scruznet.com (TeriAnn Wakeman)
Subject: Re: Washboard caused damage

At  3:44 PM 11/3/97 -0500, CIrvin1258@aol.com wrote:

>"Washboard roads seem to be the achillies heel of leaf spring Land Rovers"
;
>So are lousy mechanics.
;
>I took my 109 over 80 miles of washboard roads when I was in Nevada, and had
>nothing come loose. Perhaps the person that tightened everything on your
>truck was weak.
;
>Charles
;
Could well be.  I never claimed to be a good mechanic, nor have I claimed
to be strong. I just claim to keep trying & hoping that one of these days I
get things right.

If you do have special methods for keeping leaf sprung LRs together through
heavy washboard roads please share.  I need all the learning I can get.

TeriAnn Wakeman            For personal mail, please start subject line
Santa Cruz California      with TW.  I belong to 4 high volume mail lists
twakeman@scruznet.com      and do not read a lot of threads..Thanks

"The box said 'Requires Windows 95, or better.' So I bought a Macintosh."

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Nov 1997 02:14:01 -0500 (EST)
From: David Scheidt <david@math.earlham.edu>
Subject: Re: Early Series Wiper Motors

On Mon, 3 Nov 1997, Mike Macdonald wrote:

> Quick question for the digest crew......
> I have recently disassembled, cleaned, regreased and re-assembled the wiper
> motors on my Series I - a fairly straightforward task thanks to the help
> texts in the various FAQ's around the 'net.  And now they work again!  They
> are the round shouldered, independent motors.  The question I have
> is....What goes on the cab-side end of the rotating shaft to hold it in place?  

As I recall, these are basically the same mecanically as the SII/SIIA
motors.  They have a handle at the inside end that allows you to work
them manually, and to disengage the wiper arm from the motor to park it.
There was an article in {LRW|LROI} within the last couple of months about
the SI motors.  The pictures should show you what you need to know.  I
don't know if you will be able to get the right bits, but it shoul't be
hard to make something to work.  I recently rebuilt my SIIA motors, and
discovered at least part of the problem was that the shaft did not pass
through the windshield frame straight.  The shafts would bind a little,
making the motor work harder, and eventually (couple hours of constant
use) not at all.  I shimmed the shaft perpendicular to the windscreen, and
they now move nearly twice as fast.  

David

--------
David_Scheidt@math.earlham.edu

yip yip yip yap yap yak yap yip *BANG*  -- no terrier

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Nov 1997 08:35:05 +0100
From: Franz Parzefall <franz@physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de>
Subject: Re: Springs-Rebuilding

Hi Con
> Hope I haven't totally confused ya all!
Not at all. Many thanks. I'll pass you instructions on to my friend.

Cheers,
Franz
Franz Parzefall                franz@physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de
		   http://www.physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de/~franz

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Nov 1997 00:17:37 -0800
From: twakeman@scruznet.com (TeriAnn Wakeman)
Subject: Re: TeriAnn's ignoance

At  7:46 PM 11/3/97 -0500, CIrvin1258@aol.com wrote:

>Gosh...I must have hit a sore spot here...
;
Yep
;
>What's the big deal, TW? Are you against the private ownership of firearms?
;
Nope I was raised around them and own a .22 revolver and a M14

I guess the big deal is that I worry about myself encountering someone who
feels a NEED to carry a weapon in order to feel safe in the country.  I
worry about their fear of the unknown menace affecting their ability to
identify a ligitimate threat.

Its also been my experience that when city people take a weapon into the
country they may not excercise the same level of judgment as they would on
their home ground.

I have been accidently shot at by a city person  who was out in the country
just plunking at things with his gun.  Nothing like the whizz of a bullet
passing by.  Its an unforgettable sound.  I had never considered my garden
to be a war zone before.

<snip>
>What do you have against poor people?

Nothing.  That paragraph was me over reacting.  I do appologize for that
one.  It was entirely uncalled for and in poor taste.

TeriAnn Wakeman            For personal mail, please start subject line
Santa Cruz California      with TW.  I belong to 4 high volume mail lists
twakeman@scruznet.com      and do not read a lot of threads..Thanks

"The box said 'Requires Windows 95, or better.' So I bought a Macintosh."

------------------------------

From: SFmms <SFmms@aol.com>
Date: Tue, 4 Nov 1997 03:45:57 EST
Subject: Skid plates & rock sliders for SIII 88

I am considering designing & fabricating cost effective skid plates & rock
sliders for my SIII 88 (I have checked out some prefab sources). Anyone with
any experience regarding frame attachment points, etc., as I would prefer to
use existing holes.  I plan on taking some shots underneath when I have my
transfer gear box studs & gaskets replaced (currently the field fix includes
Form-a-gasket &  a 22 bullet casing in the hole off the stud I sheared off in
Death Valley). The welder I am dealing with thinks we can do the entire job (3
skid plates & 2 rock sliders) for around $ 300. No fancy metal like aluminum,
just ventilated, painted steel plate for the skid plates. I am negotiating to
keep the patterns too. 

Thanks to all who advised on appropriate taller tires, looks like I'll get BFG
30X9.50R15 All Terrains as a good compromise. 

Karen Sindir
'74 SIII 88 "Red Rufy"

------------------------------

From: Andy Phillips <AnPi@norsk-data.co.uk>
Subject: RE: Washboard caused damage
Date: Tue, 4 Nov 1997 09:09:36 -0000

I have to say that in my experience I've not had anything come loose
when washboarding for only short periods of time. So not much experience
there. However, I do find that a touch of superglue on any nuts etc that
I've just played with gives me peace of mind. Paranoid eh? The good
thing about the superglue is that a very gentle tap with a rubber mallet
and a screwdriver will chip it off again leaving an unblemished bolt to
adjust when necessary. For the ultimate solution though it has to be age
- how many people have had trouble loosening a rusted bolt eh?

Andy. (Hoping to have no rusted bolts eventually!)

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	Rick Grant [SMTP:rgrant@cadvision.com]
> Sent:	Monday, November 03, 1997 10:58 PM
> To:	lro@playground.sun.com
> Subject:	Re: Washboard caused damage

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 36 lines)]
> Cobra Media Communications.  Calgary, Canada
> Aboriginal and International Relief Issues

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 Nov 1997 22:35:11 +1100
From: Doug McPherson <haystack@netspace.net.au>
Subject: Broken teeth in gearbox (lt95)

Hi all,

I changed the oil in my gearbox today ('85 110 V8 4spd).

Unfortunately, a few chunks of metal came out too :-(

One bit looks like a chipped gear tooth, but could be
almost anything. The largest bit is about 2mm x 1mm x 1mm

Quite a bit of your basic small metal filings/flakes too.
They're silvery, not brass/yellow.

Hmm....

There are no obvious problems with the box (except the metal!).
1st is a bit hard to get at when cold, and I've graunched into third
changing down from 4th a few times. No nasty noises that I've noticed.

The oil was last changed about 12 months ago, when I first got it,
by a local independant LR service guy. He didn't mention any gear
teeth in the oil, but it WAS hypoid that came out. He replaced it
with the proper engine oil.

I only changed the oil 'cos of the hypoid it had in it last time, 
and I thought changing it again would be a GOOD THING. 

So, this problem is:

a) Terminal. Rebuild the box now. Don't even drive down the street.

b) Big problem. Going to need a rebuild soon, but keep driving for 
   now, its not going to cause any more problems.

c) Problem. Will need a rebuild eventually. Now the metal's
   out, it'll be OK. Happens all the time. Wait until there's some
   obvious nasty noises.

d) Perfectly normal. Landrover gearboxes are meant to have metal
   shavings in the oil. In fact I should add some more :-)

Thanks for any info

Doug.

1985 LR 110 CSW V8

------------------------------

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