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Date: Tue, 28 Oct 1997 07:02:14 -0500 (EST)
From: David Scheidt <david@math.earlham.edu>
Subject: Re:  Series Tires

On Tue, 28 Oct 1997 Solihull@aol.com wrote:

> patterns that would be good for rover duty. If I can't scare up some 16inch
> rims soon at a reasonable price, I may go with them for Pansy. Anybody tried
> these?
> Cheers!!
> John Dillingham

Which are these?  I have not seen anything in 9.5 that is bigger than 30"
across.  I should like to gain the height, and I am not sure that 10.5"
are safe on the stock 15" wheels.  What I have been looking are Dunlop's
Radial rover RV or maybe the Radial Mud Rover.  I have heard good things
about them, from non-rover people, and they fairly cheap.  Anybody out
there have thoughts?

David

--------
David_Scheidt@math.earlham.edu

yip yip yip yap yap yak yap yip *BANG*  -- no terrier

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Oct 1997 04:11:28 -0800

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Oct 1997 07:21:13 -0500 (EST)
From: Karl Kurz <kkurz@acad.umm.maine.edu>
Subject: Re:Canvas dressing

Thanks to everyone who sent a response, but a friend locally provided the
ideal solution from the local surplus dealer.

The product is the same stuff used by the military to protect canvas, and
smells just like all the surplus packs, belts and tent halves we used to
use as kids. It's waxy but sprays nicely and really restored the military
look and feel of this original canvas....  FYI, the product was made
by Midland Chicago Corp., Alsip, Il, USA and is called _Preservative
Coating, Canvas_  _Clear - Water Resistant_  stock#8030-00-664-4944.

AFYI, Stephen King lives about 100m away in Bangor, I see him every once
in a while, last time in a convenience store buying some beer, outside was
his new MB convertable, no LR's that I could see...

Karl K. Kurz, N1JZY
POB 352, Machiasport
Maine, 04654
207-255-4036

Heaven is where the police are British, the cooks Italian, the mechanics
German, the lovers French, and it is all organized by the Swiss.

Hell is where the chefs are British, the lovers Swiss, the mechanics
French, the police German, and it is all organized by the Italians.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Oct 1997 07:26:36 -0500 (EST)
From: Karl Kurz <kkurz@acad.umm.maine.edu>
Subject: Re: Won't run without choke

Leanness in mixture is either not enough fuel or too much air.....
assuming the fuel is not detained...try a squeeze-spray bottle full of
water and drench the area around the cylinder head/intake manifold, if you
find a noticable belch, the unit is sucking air..
tightening may cure, but a new gasket would be better
...there are also a few
other places where air can be introduced between the carb and port, look
around.......

Karl K. Kurz, N1JZY
POB 352, Machiasport
Maine, 04654
207-255-4036

Heaven is where the police are British, the cooks Italian, the mechanics
German, the lovers French, and it is all organized by the Swiss.

Hell is where the chefs are British, the lovers Swiss, the mechanics
French, the police German, and it is all organized by the Italians.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Oct 1997 13:38:05 +0100
From: Franz Parzefall <franz@physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de>
Subject: Re:  Series Tires

On Tue, Oct 28, 1997 at 07:02:14AM -0500, David Scheidt wrote:

> Which are these?  I have not seen anything in 9.5 that is bigger than 30"
> across. 
theoretically: 9.5 * 2 + 15 = 34 ....

> I should like to gain the height, and I am not sure that 10.5"
> are safe on the stock 15" wheels.

I'm not sure even about 9.50's on 15" rims. This is all getting a bit wide,
I think. At least it will increase your turning circle (maybe still ok for a SWB)
and strengthen your arms ;-)
Another point is that you will significantly change your gearing, unless
you do something to your diffs or t-box. That's why I thought about putting
9.50x16 on my 110. But I gave this thought up because the 2.5 n.a. diesel is
too whimpy. May be I'll take that up again if I find a cheap Tdi 200.

Just some thoughts,
Franz
Franz Parzefall                franz@physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de
		   http://www.physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de/~franz
       _______
      [____|\_\==
      [_-__|__|_-]      Brumml, exmil. 1989 Land Rover 110 2.5D
 ___.._(0)..._.(0)__..-
                                  

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Oct 1997 04:42:43 -0800 (PST)
From: "Paul Gussack" <pcg@tennis.org>
Subject: Rebuild install

I am in the process of rebuilding a 2.25 petrol (the head and block just went
ot the machine shop  on the 27th).  What should I look out for as I get into it
more and any warnings when i go to install it in my SIII? 

Replacing all
gaskets, will wait to hear from shop if I need new pistons (there is some wear,
but I don't know how much), bearings, timing  chain, tensioner and chain gear, 
(springs and valves look good), what elese do i need to look out for?

 Hope I didn't open a huge can o' worms.

Thanks
Paul G
SIII SWB "Grendal"

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Oct 1997 07:56:13 -0500 (EST)
From: David Scheidt <david@math.earlham.edu>
Subject: Re:  Series Tires

On Tue, 28 Oct 1997, Franz Parzefall wrote:

> On Tue, Oct 28, 1997 at 07:02:14AM -0500, David Scheidt wrote:
> > Which are these?  I have not seen anything in 9.5 that is bigger than 30"
> > across. 
> theoretically: 9.5 * 2 + 15 = 34 ....

I should have been clearer.  I meant 9.5 wide and 30 in in diameter.
'merkin tire sizes are odd.

> > I should like to gain the height, and I am not sure that 10.5"
> > are safe on the stock 15" wheels.
> I'm not sure even about 9.50's on 15" rims. This is all getting a bit wide,
> I think. At least it will increase your turning circle (maybe still ok for a SWB)
> and strengthen your arms ;-)

I have 30X9.5X15 on the thing now.  I should point out that the PO
un-riveted the center section of the rim and welded it in backwards.  The
result is a pretty mongo offset.  so I can crank the wheels as far off
center as with the stock things.  And the steering effort is about the
same--which probably has resulted in increased arm  strength over the past
10000 miles.  (already?  wow, I only bought the thing in july.

> Another point is that you will significantly change your gearing, unless
> you do something to your diffs or t-box. That's why I thought about putting
> 9.50x16 on my 110. But I gave this thought up because the 2.5 n.a. diesel is
> too whimpy. May be I'll take that up again if I find a cheap Tdi 200.

I have a pretty hopped-up 2.25 petrol (big overbore, 2.5 cam 2bl weber,
custome intake, headers,  no supercharger though ), so I would also
aprreciate that 70mph comes at lower revs.  

> Another point is that you will significantly change your gearing, unless

David

> Just some thoughts,
> Franz
> ---------------------------------------------------------------
> Franz Parzefall                franz@physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de
> 		   http://www.physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de/~franz
>        _______
>       [____|\_\==
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 11 lines)]
>       [_-__|__|_-]      Brumml, exmil. 1989 Land Rover 110 2.5D
>  ___.._(0)..._.(0)__..-

--------
David_Scheidt@math.earlham.edu

yip yip yip yap yap yak yap yip *BANG*  -- no terrier

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Oct 1997 14:34:47 +0100
From: Franz Parzefall <franz@physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de>
Subject: Re:  Series Tires

On Tue, Oct 28, 1997 at 07:56:13AM -0500, David Scheidt wrote:

> I should have been clearer.  I meant 9.5 wide and 30 in in diameter.
> 'merkin tire sizes are odd.
oops! Over here the width and the height are the same if there is no /

> I have 30X9.5X15 on the thing now. 
That should give you the same height as a 7.50x15 has.

> I should point out that the PO
> un-riveted the center section of the rim and welded it in backwards.  The
> result is a pretty mongo offset.  so I can crank the wheels as far off
> center as with the stock things.
That will stress your wheel bearings a bit more, but as long as you don't drive
dirt roads all the time...

> I have a pretty hopped-up 2.25 petrol (big overbore, 2.5 cam 2bl weber,
> custome intake, headers,  no supercharger though ),
You don't own a filling station, do you?  ;-)
With German fuel prices such an engine would make me starve...

> so I would also aprreciate that 70mph comes at lower revs.  
I'd appriciate that, too, but even more if I could reach them faster. 
That's why I'd like a Tdi. The 69bhp of my 2.5D are a bit lame if they 
have to move 1950kg.

cu,
Franz
Franz Parzefall                franz@physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de
		   http://www.physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de/~franz
       _______
      [____|\_\==
      [_-__|__|_-]      Brumml, exmil. 1989 Land Rover 110 2.5D
 ___.._(0)..._.(0)__..-
                                  

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Oct 1997 08:55:58 -0500 (EST)
From: Russ Wilson <rwilson@usaor.net>
Subject: Re: Rebuild install

>I am in the process of rebuilding a 2.25 petrol (the head and block just went
>ot the machine shop  on the 27th).  What should I look out for as I get
>into it
>more and any warnings when i go to install it in my SIII?

When you get the block back from the shop go to your nearest carwash/ power
washer and blast out all the holes in the block.  you will never believe
all the crap that will come out.  My friend just went through this.

>Replacing all
>gaskets, will wait to hear from shop if I need new pistons (there is some
>wear,
>but I don't know how much), bearings, timing  chain, tensioner and chain
>gear,
>(springs and valves look good), what elese do i need to look out for?
> Hope I didn't open a huge can o' worms.
There are few bigger...   but it isn't all that bad.  Just follow the book.

>Thanks
>Paul G
>SIII SWB "Grendal"
>but I don't know how much), bearings, timing  chain, tensioner and chain

Russ Wilson
Leslie Bittner

Fort Pitt Land Rover Group
Pittsburgh's Smallest, Biggest, Best, Worst, and Only Land Rover Club

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Oct 1997 14:05:53 +0000
From: Duncan Phillips <dunk@ivanhoe.soc.staffs.ac.uk>
Subject: Engine compression (again)

OK,.... I know the 7:1/8:1 thing was recently discussed, but I have to
ressurect it, so here goes:

I have a square bump on my cylinder head with a faint '8' stamped on it
HOWEVER...when I use 8:1 spark plugs and set the timing for 8:1 it
backfires and runs terribly, leading me to believe that it's actually a 7:1.

My question is this: how can I work out the compression ratio - I theorised
that, as it's a normally-aspirated engine, then the pressure at the bottom
of the stroke is ambient (1 bar), so, if I find the pressure at the top of
the stroke (again in bar), then I'll have the compression ratio. 

Is this a valid theory, or just a load of cobblers??.  I'm thinking of
buying a compression gauge to do the test - would this be the right
procedure??

Any and all help will be gratefully received!!!

*******************************
Duncan Phillips
1980 SWB SIII 'Evie'
http://Gawain.soc.staffs.ac.uk/~cmtdmp/play/lrover/
*******************************

------------------------------

From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Tue, 28 Oct 1997 10:07:45 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Rebuild install

In a message dated 97-10-28 08:57:22 EST, you write:

<< When you get the block back from the shop go to your nearest carwash/
power
 washer and blast out all the holes in the block.  you will never believe
 all the crap that will come out.  My friend just went through this. >>

I would personally never go back to a machine shop that did not clean out the
swarf after machining.  I consider that part of what I pay for.

my 2p worth
Nate

------------------------------

From: DEFENDER@ibm.net
Date: Tue, 28 Oct 1997 10:21:41 -0800
Subject: Re: Rebuild install

I couldn't agree more.

------------------------------

From: "Alan Perfect" <alanstephens@dial.pipex.com>
Subject: New Owner
Date: Mon, 28 Oct 1996 15:20:37 -0000

Hi All,
I have just today become the owner of a '66 IIa my first Landy but I just
have a quick question.

The instrument panel has two 'clocks' one the speedo and another which
shows amps and fuel (with a little red light at the bottom of it). Both are
land rover units but I wondered about the originality of the second unit,
any pictures I've seen of a IIa indicate this should be Fuel and
Temperature whereas mine seems to have nothing to indicate engine
temperature

Can anyone shed any light.

Alan

------------------------------

From: lroshop@idirect.com
Date: Tue, 28 Oct 1997 10:26:39 +0000
Subject: Re: Inquire

Which country are you located in.  Canada offers two white colour 
options.  The colour is certainly available but may not be offered 
in you market.

Regards

Kevin Girling.
Land Rover Owner International.

> From:          "CEGEME" 
<ivon-gm@satlink.com>
> Reply-to:      lro@playground.sun.com
> To:            lro@playground.sun.com
> X-To:          <Land-Rover-Owner@playground.sun.com>
> Subject:       Inquire
> Date:          Thu, 16 Oct 1997 00:32:03 -0300

> 	I've already made a downpayment for a Land Rover Discovery ES 1998,
> authomatic, with two air bags and leather seats. The dealer tells me it is not
> possible to get that vehicle in White colour. Is that correct? If you cannot
> answer that question, could you refer me to another e-mail?
> Thanks for your time!
> Subject:       Inquire
> Date:          Thu, 16 Oct 1997 00:32:03 -0300

LRO SHOP (NORTH AMERICA)

------------------------------

From: DHW4U@aol.com
Date: Tue, 28 Oct 1997 10:36:28 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: New Owner

that is same as my 65 iia     temp and oil pressure separate gauge

good luck
dave walls
dhw4u@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Oct 1997 07:36:28 -0800
From: Jeremy Bartlett <bartlett@slip.net>
Subject: Re: New Owner

Alan Perfect wrote:

> The instrument panel has two 'clocks' one the speedo and another which
> shows amps and fuel

That sounds standard to me.

cheers,

Jeremy

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Tue, 28 Oct 97 10:33:14 EST
Subject: Re: New Owner

>any pictures I've seen of a IIa indicate this should be Fuel and
>Temperature whereas mine seems to have nothing to indicate engine
>temperature

>Can anyone shed any light.

yours is the early type, should have a seperate dual guage that reads 
engine tmep and oil pressure.

rgrds.
David

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Oct 1997 10:43:11 -0500
From: Mike Johnson <johnsonm@borg.com>
Subject: Re: New Owner

Alan Perfect wrote:
> Hi All,
> I have just today become the owner of a '66 IIa my first Landy but I just
> have a quick question.
> The instrument panel has two 'clocks' one the speedo and another which
> shows amps and fuel (with a little red light at the bottom of it). Both are
> land rover units but I wondered about the originality of the second unit,

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 16 lines)]
> Can anyone shed any light.
> Alan
Wow it took a year to get this message...  Your e-mail zipped back into
my archives when my machine saw your date.  I have a hard enough time
with time zones but this.....  :)

-- 
end
Mike Johnson
johnsonm@borg.com
http://www.borg.com/~johnsonm

------------------------------

From: "K. John Wood" <jwrover@colo-net.com>
Subject: Re: Series Tires
Date: Mon, 27 Oct 1997 06:16:58 -0700

Dear Karen,
On my SIII '73 I have 286/75/16's while the rim size is different the
demensions regarding "tall" and "wide" are relivant. I got mine at Discount
tire. They're a Bronco Snow/Mud TR. I chose Discount due to their killer
warrenty. For $8.00 per tire I got a Lifetime damage warrenty...I can go
anywhere with them and if they tear/ burst/ or pop I get a new one for
Free!

Alos, make certain that your rims are Tube-Less. If not you'll need to run
inertubes as well as the tires to effectively air-down on trail and not
lose a beed.

Yours'
K. John Wood
Event Co- Solihull Society

----------
> From: SFmms@aol.com
> To: lro@playground.sun.com
> Subject: Series Tires
> Date: Tuesday, October 28, 1997 12:59 AM
> I own a '74 SIII 88 with the original 15" rims. The current tires are old

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 11 lines)]
> Bridgestone Desert Dueller sized 225-75-15 which have to be replaced (dry
> rot). I would like to use the 15" rims but upgrade to a taller tire to
get
> more ground clearance for moderate off-roading activities. I need to know
> what tires may fit without requiring fender trimming or adjustment to the
> bump stops. It would be helpful if I can get advice on sizes and brands
that
> have been sucessfully used. 
> Thanks in advance,
> Karen Sindir
> '74 SIII 88 "Red Rufy"
> I own a '74 SIII 88 with the original 15" rims. The current tires are old

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Oct 97 11:11:25 EST
From: Jesse Easudes <jessee@FRC2.FRC.RI.CMU.EDU>
Subject: 16x5" rims: what tires?

Do any of you have the 16x5"rims?  If so what tires do you use.  
I am finding it next to impossible to locate a tire that will fit; especially a mud/off road type tire.  
Any pointers would be greatly appreciated, especially from those having success with tires on these rims.  

Thanks a lot, 

Jesse Easudes
'60 SII SWB 2.25 l
'73 Triumph Daytona 500cc

------------------------------

From: AKBLACKLEY@aol.com
Date: Tue, 28 Oct 1997 11:21:39 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Freelander Designer

What say we put some bars of Ivory in a sock and "trow him a beatin'". Give
him a "spot ov bovver" too. Oh lamentable Fate when our beloved marque is in
the hands of glam punks doing fashion. Cheers. Andy Blackley (not really such
a trog)

------------------------------

From: AKBLACKLEY@aol.com
Date: Tue, 28 Oct 1997 11:33:10 -0500 (EST)
Subject: SII Cutting out

Phil: Check the ignition switch. If its bad it would do what you describe. No
horns or wipers, but the truck still runs would be a bad fuse or a poor fit
of the fuse in the fuse block. All accessories working, but the truck wont
run would be indicative of a problem in the ignition system/ distributor.
Everything cutting out (often intermitent) sounds like a bad ignition switch.
I dont have a copy of the SIIA wiring diagram naymore, perhaps some kind soul
on the List will fax you one. If you dont have a workshop manual you nedd one
ASAP. Need a factory parts catalog too, IMHO. You can get these at a good
price from the LROI Bookshop (no connections, usual disclaimers, etc.)
http://web.idirect.com/~lroshop/index.html Hope this helps. Cheers. Andy
Blackley

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Oct 1997 09:02:49 -0800 (PST)
From: gpool@pacific.net (Granville Pool)
Subject: Re: Series Tires (longish)

Karen and all,

>I own a '74 SIII 88 with the original 15" rims. The current tires are old
>Bridgestone Desert Dueller sized 225-75-15 which have to be replaced (dry
>rot). I would like to use the 15" rims but upgrade to a taller tire [snip]

Your stock wheels are 6"x15" and have safety beads for tubeless tires.
30x9.50R15s will fit great on these rims (yes, I have personal experience)
and will cause no clearance problems.  The 33x9.50R15 BFG AT & MT will fit
the rim but will likely cause clearance problems on a stock 88" Land-Rover.
It will also gear you *way* up and you'll be a bit gutless.  I talked with
one owner of a 109 who was running 33x9.50R15 MTs.  He was very happy with
them (up in Washington).  But a 109 has a lot more clearance than a stock
88.  I went four-wheeling in some serious stuff with a friend who had
255/85R16 MTs on his 88 and he was doing lots of scraping.  That tire is
about 33" tall but is 10.50" wide so is somewhat worse than a 33x9.50. 

I have been out with one fellow who put 31x10.50R15s on the stock 6" rims
and they seemed to work okay for him.  I tried it with some used 10.50s I
had lying around.  I found no clearance problems (only tried them on the
rear) but could never get the tire beads to seat properly.  Apparently that
was because I had too much rust along the bead edges of my rims.  For quite
some time I've been running 31x10.50R15s on 8"x15" custom wheels (all the
width increase is to the outside) and these work okay too as long as my
springs are fairly fresh.

Your 225/75R15s are about 28+" tall, so the 30x9.50R15s should give you a
reasonable increase in height and clearance and I think you'll find the
gearing satisfactory.  I found the gearing with 31" tires reasonable but was
sometimes wishing for a lower low-low when doing downgrades.  With Don's 33"
tires, that was a serious concern.  I'm going to soon be fitting 32" tires
(265/75R16 BFG MTs on 7"x16" wheels) and am also going to be mating a Series
II transfer case to my Series III gearbox so that I will have lower low
gears to go with these taller tires.  Since the high-range gearing will not
be appreciably different, I'll be geared up a bit on the road which is good
because I have no overdrive (and don't want one).

Cheers,

Granny

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Oct 1997 17:02:56 +0000
From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Subject: Re: Freelander Designer

What say we put some bars of Ivory in a sock and "trow him a beatin'". Give
him a "spot ov bovver" too. Oh lamentable Fate when our beloved marque is in
>the hands of glam punks doing fashion. Cheers. Andy Blackley (not really such
>a trog)
Dunno 'bout that,but if its the bloke I think it is we could have a
whip round and get him a haircut.Whether he wants it or not.*Without*
the option of a perm instead...........
Cheers
Mike Rooth

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Oct 1997 09:18:40 -0800
From: Jeremy Bartlett <bartlett@slip.net>
Subject: Re: Freelander Designer

AKBLACKLEY@aol.com wrote:

>  Oh lamentable Fate when our beloved marque is in
> the hands of glam punks doing fashion.

Cheer up, think of all the money LR will be able to soak out ofthe salon crowd :)

cheers,

Jeremy

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Oct 1997 09:19:31 -0800 (PST)
From: gpool@pacific.net (Granville Pool)
Subject: Re: 16x5" rims: what tires?

Jesse,

>Do any of you have the 16x5"rims?  If so what tires do you use.  
>I am finding it next to impossible to locate a tire that will fit; especially a
>mud/off road type tire.  

My first Land-Rover was a '59 88 that was fitted with 7.50x16 bias-ply tires
on the stock 5"x16" wheels.  I had to adjust the steering stops a wee bit to
stop rubbing on the inside (left front only, as I recall).  A 7.00x16 is a
better fit and the gearing is a bit better too (31" vs. 32" for a 7.50x16).
The catch is that 7.00x16 is nigh on impossible to find any more, especially
in a radial.  7.50R16 radials, however, you can get.  Cooper makes the
Discoverer LT (all-terrain, v. similar to a Goodyear Wrangler AT), the STT
(mud-terrain), and the CTD (similar to BFG Trac Edge) in 7.50R16.  Dunlop
Radial Rover RT (a bit more aggressive than CTD or Trac Edge) is also
available in 7.50R16.

You will probably like the ground clearance a 7.50x16 will give but may not
like the gearing.  An alternative is to go with a 215/85R16 which is a bit
over 30" in overall diameter (which is between a 6.50x16 and a 7.00x16).
Should seat on the 5" rims okay if they're clean (I've seen 235/85R16s on
the 5" rims on some Rovers but wouldn't recommend it).  

Caution:  Unlike Karen's 6"x15" wheels, your wheels are not made for
tubeless tires (no safety beads) so you will need tubes.  They must be
radial tubes and I don't think you can go wrong with Michelin tubes.
Speaking of Michelin, that companty used to make the gnarly XCL (directional
mud tire) in 7.00R16 (this was the size used on the Camel Trophy Range
Rovers and Discoveries) but no longer makes XCLs.  I don't know if the
replacement XZLs (non-directional)is made in that size.  In any case, this
tire is not readily available in the U.S.

Cheers,

Granny

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Tue, 28 Oct 1997 12:44:27 -0500
Subject: Re: Engine compression (again)

How to tell if a head is mismarked?

SDimple - put a compression gauge on it. The specs are in the manual.

Mine's an 8:1 - runs about 160PSI.

7:1....duh - anybody know the compression on a typical Rover 7:1?

                    ALan

------------------------------

From: Solihull@aol.com
Date: Tue, 28 Oct 1997 13:22:56 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re:  Re: Rebuild install

>>When you get the block back from the shop go to your nearest carwash/
>>power washer and blast out all the holes in the block.  you will never
>>believe all the crap that will come out.  My friend just went through this.

My machinist has a washer that does this. He uses it several times in the
process of block boring or whatever. I still do the quarter car wash routine
as an inspection, but the work is usually clean. Charges an extra fifty
bucks. Money well spent, IMHO.

Cheers!!
John Dillingham
near Canton, GA
KF4NAS     LROA #1095
73 s3 swb 25902676b DD "Pansy"
72 s3 swb 25900502a rusted, in suspended animation
Looking for a P5 project, well, OK, or a P6 or another SD1
Vintage Rover Service, since 1994, where we say:
Land Rovers for Agriculture!
Land Rovers for Industry!
Land Rovers for Recreation!
Land Rovers forever!! D.V.

------------------------------

From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Tue, 28 Oct 1997 13:45:23 -0500 (EST)
Subject: NLA Parts

Hi all,

This is really for US folks.  I have been calling around looking for a spare
front panel for the wings on my early style IIa.  All the usual US suspects
no longer have them in stock but RN had a military version with inner panel
and front panel for the low low price of $200 (while supplies last--no
guarantees).

I  called Cr*dd*cks this morning, to find that they had and ended up buying
both right and left side inner wing/front panel/top panel for $52 a side!
(Genuine new in the box)

I guess the point here is if you're looking for hard to get items, it's worth
the call across the pond.

Nate

------------------------------

From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Subject: RE: NLA Parts
Date: Tue, 28 Oct 1997 10:58:46 -0800

Hi Nate,

How did you arrange to have the fender (wing) skins shipped over here?
I'll be looking at the same purchase in the not to distant future (I
hope)

How much did they quote you for freight?

Paul
1961 Series II 88
Victoria, BC  Canada

>-----Original Message-----
>From:	NADdMD@aol.com [SMTP:NADdMD@aol.com]
>Sent:	Tuesday, October 28, 1997 10:45 AM
>To:	lro@playground.sun.com
>Subject:	NLA Parts

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 24 lines)]
>the call across the pond.
>Nate

------------------------------

From: bobnsueb@maxinet.com (Bob and Sue Bernard)
Subject: smoky
Date: Tue, 28 Oct 1997 14:02:23 -0800

Hi all,
This recent question has started me thinking about a friends oil smoke.
It's been a long time since someone explained how to tell if it's caused by
rings or valve seals.
When first starting it gives lots of blue smoke.
Someone just said if it smokes after coasting it's the valve seals, but I
thought I remembered that would be rings.
 Which is which??
Thanks
Bob Bernard

------------------------------

From: "Russell G. Dushin" <dushinrg@primail.pr.cyanamid.com>
Subject: Re: engine compression
Date: Tue, 28 Oct 97 17:13:46 EST

Alan wrote:

Mine's an 8:1 - runs about 160PSI.

7:1....duh - anybody know the compression on a typical Rover 7:1?

Nige ('60 SII 88) has a 7:1 head, and has consistently run around
130-135 psi...I wouldn't expect much over this on a fresh 7:1 head.

rd/nige

------------------------------

From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Subject: RE: smoky
Date: Tue, 28 Oct 1997 14:22:27 -0800

The way that I understand it is:

In an engine with worn valve guides, when left sitting for a while (say
overnight) the oil that is left sitting in the head will slowly drain
down through the worn guides into the combustion chamber and then burn
up when the engine is first fired up in the morning.

In the same engine, when decelerating, shifting down etc. the engine is
turning at relatively high rpm's with the carburetor closed creating a
strong vacuum in the intake manifold and thus in the combustion chamber
during the intake stroke.  This vacuum literally sucks the oil down the
worn valve guides from the head into the combustion chamber, producing
blue smoke.

Generally speaking, an engine with worn piston rings / cylinder walls
will smoke all of the time - especially under heavy acceleration.

Hope this helps...

Paul.

>-----Original Message-----
>From:	bobnsueb@maxinet.com [SMTP:bobnsueb@maxinet.com]
>Sent:	Tuesday, October 28, 1997 2:02 PM
>To:	lro@playground.sun.com
>Subject:	smoky

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 20 lines)]
>Thanks
>Bob Bernard

------------------------------

From: "K. John Wood" <jwrover@colo-net.com>
Subject: Need World Dealer List
Date: Mon, 27 Oct 1997 12:50:48 -0700

Dear Friends,

Does anyone have a list of the international dealer locations for LR.
Primarily Central and South America.
If so could you please direct me.

Thanks
John 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Oct 1997 19:28:34 -0800
From: "Con P. Seitl" <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Rebuild install

Paul Gussack wrote:
> I am in the process of rebuilding a 2.25 petrol (the head and block just went
> ot the machine shop  on the 27th).  What should I look out for as I get into it
> more and any warnings when i go to install it in my SIII?
> Replacing all
> gaskets, will wait to hear from shop if I need new pistons (there is some wear,
> but I don't know how much), bearings, timing  chain, tensioner and chain gear,

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 15 lines)]
> Paul G
> SIII SWB "Grendal"

Paul:  I ran into a few problems in the complete rebuild of "Pig". First, 
make sure your cam bearings are alright, if not, you have to strip the 
engine back out and down to the block again to replace them. Make sure 
the gear wheels ( aluminium ) on the timing chain assy are not worn, and 
also put NEW woodruff keys on the crank and timing gears.Make sure you 
check bearing clearances with plasti-gauge and use a quality torque 
wrench when assembling the engine. Make sure fan is right way round when 
installed. Also use plenty of clean oil and Lubriplate 101 on all 
bearings when putting together. Run engine for about 1 hour and change 
oil and filter.. Run again for about 4 hours and change oil and filter. 
Change again after about a week of light driving and thereafter every 
3000 miles. Its worth it! Also the first couple of weeks is a good time 
to show everyone with a LR that you have no oil leaks !

Con Seitl   " Bin there..done that.. "
1973 III 88 "Pig"

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Oct 1997 19:40:40 -0500 (EST)
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Re: electrical problems

Phil <pcaropreso@willowtree.com> wrote:

>No lights, no horn.  Running fine, then nothing....

If you've replaced the wiring harness and battery, methinks it's a ground 
problem.  The Prince can manifest himself in a number of nefarious ways. Do 
the lights get bright/dim when you honk the horn or vice versa?  The stock 
setup has only one ground strap.  I've got several: 8 gauge direct to the 
block, 10 gauge to a common ground for lights/horn, 2 gauge to the frame 
plus the original braided strap.  It's also possible to have corrosion on 
seemingly perfect battery terminals/clamps that comes and goes at 
inopportune times. 

      *---"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                  | 
      |     Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |
      |   "The oldest Rover-marque club in the Americas"   |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730    |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 757-622-7054 (Day) |
      |    757-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 757-622-7056    |
      |                                                    |
      *---1972 Series III 88"-----1996 Discovery SE-7(m)---*

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Oct 1997 19:42:08 -0500
From: Michael A Smith <masmith@barint.on.ca>
Subject: subscribe

subscribe

------------------------------

From: Solihull@aol.com
Date: Tue, 28 Oct 1997 19:58:05 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re:  smoky

If it smokes after coasting, it would be valve seals, because that would be
an occasion of high manifold vacuum, as would an eposode of engine braking.
Cheers!!
John Dillingham
near Canton, GA
KF4NAS     LROA #1095
73 s3 swb 25902676b DD "Pansy"
72 s3 swb 25900502a rusted, in suspended animation
Looking for a P5 project, well, OK, or a P6 or another SD1
Vintage Rover Service, since 1994, where we say:
Land Rovers for Agriculture!
Land Rovers for Industry!
Land Rovers for Recreation!
Land Rovers forever!! D.V.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Oct 1997 22:04:56 -0500
From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com>
Subject: Re: rust on galvanized frame?

David Russell wrote:

> My used galvanized frame has some rust colored spots around the
> battery
> tray and RH horn. The surface has not broken and it looks more like a
> stain than anything else. There have been no repairs to this area, or
> any
> part of the frame for that matter.
> Should I be concerned, or is it just a stain?

Sounds like stain from non-galvanized parts or fasteners rusting. I've
had very good luck removing such stains with Naval Jelly.

Regards,
David Cockey

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 07:19:17 +0100
From: Dan Herrin <herrin@gonzo.stuttgart.netsurf.de>
Subject: subscribe

subscribe

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 03:15:30 -0500
From: Gavin Smith <GavinFSmith@compuserve.com>
Subject: Electrical Problems

Message text written by INTERNET:Land-Rover-Owner@playground.sun.com
>Date: Mon, 27 Oct 1997 11:06:59 -0600
From: pcaropreso <pcaropreso@willowtree.com>
Subject: electrical problems

Series IIA, 88" Landie, which keeps cutting out. No lights, no horn.
Running fine, then nothing, even when the vehicle is moving. I have
replaced the distributor completely. I was told that there was a crack
in the cap, which let moisture in. I need a wiring diagram for the
vehicle. Can anyone tell me how I can get one? I have new battery and a
new wiring harness. I also have a new mechanic. Thanks, Phil
>Date: Mon, 27 Oct 1997 11:06:59 -0600

I had a similar problem, bouncing along in my IIA, suddenly lost all the
electrics. Then just as suddlenly, all back again.

It was the bonnet stay, (Yanks can read hood prop there) shorting out the=

battery.  Don't know if the battery moved, or the prop, but securing
everything and wrapping tape around the steel bits where they came close =
to
the battery terminals solved it.

Gavin Smith
ZL2ACT
SIIA 88", Superwinch O/D, 202 cu in Holden.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 10:41:34 +0100
From: "Said Geoffrey at MITTS" <Geoffrey.Said@magnet.mt>
Subject: RE:smoky

I think that smoke on startup is the cause of bad valves.  I remember Dad saying 
that oil will seap through the valves and deposit on the piston surface.  Then 
when you start up the oil is burned.

If you have ring problems I would see oil blowing out and loss of compression.

You experts any advice???

Thanks
Geoffrey

bobnsueb@maxinet.com (Bob and Sue Bernard):
>Hi all,
>This recent question has started me thinking about a friends oil smoke.
>It's been a long time since someone explained how to tell if it's caused by
>rings or valve seals.
>When first starting it gives lots of blue smoke.
>Someone just said if it smokes after coasting it's the valve seals, but I

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 15 lines)]
>Thanks
>Bob Bernard

------------------------------

From: CIrvin1258@aol.com
Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 06:25:16 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Electrical Problems

I've never heard of the Bonnet Stay problem!

However, it's something that could be looked at.

My guess, is that, since the horn and lights are on the same circuit, that
it's probably a tired fusebox. Try jiggling the wires where they plug into
the sides of the box, and see what happens. The terminals sometimes "age" to
the point that they are loose, and if they move enough, things will stop
working.

Charles

------------------------------

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