Land Rover Owner Message Digest Contents

[ First Message Last | Table of Contents | <- Digest -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

Send Submissions Land-Rover-Owner@Land-Rover.Team.Net

Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 04:08:10 -0800

------------------------------

From: "Richard Marsden"<rmarsden@digicon-egr.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 12:13:25 +0000
Subject: Films

------------------- Forwarded by Richard Marsden/EAME/VDGC on 10/29/97
12:10 PM ---------------------------

For the lists:
"Stand by Me" (River Phoenix, and the spotty g*t from ST:TNG) starts and
finishes with a SII 109" station wagon.
"Twelve Monkeys" Bruce Willis hides under a Range Rover (where he loses his
gun in 1996)
"Dangerfield"  (UK terrestrial series). A recent episode where they're
racing Lightweights. Was channel surfing and caught it. Lasted about 5
minutes before some plot turned up and I moved on....

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 08:27:49 -0400
From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Electrical Problems

Gavin Smith wrote:
> Message text written by INTERNET:Land-Rover-Owner@playground.sun.com
> >Date: Mon, 27 Oct 1997 11:06:59 -0600
> From: pcaropreso <pcaropreso@willowtree.com>
> Subject: electrical problems
> Series IIA, 88" Landie, which keeps cutting out. No lights, no horn.
> Running fine, then nothing, even when the vehicle is moving. I have

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 25 lines)]
> ZL2ACT
> SIIA 88", Superwinch O/D, 202 cu in Holden.
I also had that problem I solved it by turning the battery round so that
the terminals were on the other side. I did have the relocate the ground
cable to gain some length.
                   John and Muddy

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 12:30:08 +0000
From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Subject: Re: Films

>For the lists:
>"Stand by Me" (River Phoenix, and the spotty g*t from ST:TNG) starts and
>finishes with a SII 109" station wagon.
>"Twelve Monkeys" Bruce Willis hides under a Range Rover (where he loses his
>gun in 1996)
>"Dangerfield"  (UK terrestrial series). A recent episode where they're
>racing Lightweights. Was channel surfing and caught it. Lasted about 5
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 12 lines)]
>minutes before some plot turned up and I moved on....
>Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)
And "Soldier,Soldier" is still using obsolete kit.Looked like a S111
ambulance this week.More up your street Richard,I would've thought:-)
Mike Rooth

------------------------------

From: "Tackley, John" <jtackley.dit@state.va.us>
Subject: Rochesters really suck!!
Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 08:04:29 -0500

For those of you following the misadventures of Rochester...

Last night I installed a #50 jet in the Rochester Model B carb.  Just
the jet, nothing else.(wanted to test if the acc. pump rod, which seemed
tight in the bore, was the cause of the hesitation)
Solved all the problems experienced with the #48.
No more lean condition and no more backfiring.
No more mid throttle hesitation.
Started with just a pull of the choke this AM at 35 degrees F.
On a run to work of about 20 miles it ran superbly, able to cruise
uncomfortably, but easily at 70 - 75 mph.  80 downhill, (:-o  !!
And no more gas fumes from a leaking Solex!
My motor is a relatively fresh rebuild (@ 6000 miles ago) and 8:1 (or
higher).
A weaker engine might do with the #48 and slightly higher elevations
(here I'm at @ 400 ft.) might do with a #51 or #52.  I'll stick with the
#50 at least until I get a chance to do some plug reads... and mileage
check - HA! ROTFLMAO!
I am extremely impressed with this marriage of British and Yankee
engineering!
I highly recommend this carb swap to anyone with an old leaking Solex.
;-)

Now I have questions regarding plugs and heat ranges.  
Comparing 2 different plugs of the same type, if the center
electrode/ceramic insulator is slightly longer on one, is not that a
"colder" plug compared to the shorter, other?  And generally speaking,
when is it appropriate to use a colder or hotter plug.  (I have always
been taught that a hotter plug was better suited to longer high
speed(rpm) runs, whereas a colder plug was more suitable for stop and go
(low rpm)).
Not to start a plug thread, but I am currently using the old castaway
plugs from my Harley,  Champion RN12Ys.  They seem perfect, but are
colder (longer electrode) than the standard plugs.
What do the real experts have to say on the subject?  Any 'pluggers' out
there?
L8r.

John Tackley
74 SIII 88 "Gen. Lee"
70 SIIA 88 - no name
Richmond, VA  
(low rpm)).

------------------------------

From: "Tackley, John" <jtackley.dit@state.va.us>
Subject: Mechanics humor - see Air Compressor for LR content
Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 08:28:45 -0500

TOOLS OF THE TRADE

HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is
used as a kind of divining rod to locate expensive car parts not far
from the
object we are trying to hit.

MECHANIC'S KNIFE: Used to open and slice through the contents of
cardboard cartons delivered to your front door; it works particularly
well on boxes containing convertible tops, tilts or tonneau covers.

PLIERS: Used to round off bolt heads.

HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board
principle. It transforms human energy into crooked, unpredictable
motion,
and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your
future becomes.

VISE GRIPS: Used to round off bolt heads. If nothing else is available,
they can transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand. 

OXYACETYLENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for the lighting those stale
garage cigarettes you keep hidden in the back of the Whitworth socket
drawer (What wife would think to look in _there_ ?) because you can
never remember to buy lighter fluid for the Zippo lighter you got from
the PX at Fort Campbell. 

ZIPPO LIGHTER: See Oxyacetylene Torch. 

WHITWORTH SOCKETS: Once used for working on older British Land Rovers,
MGs and Triumph motorcycles, they are now used mainly for hiding
six-month old Salems from  the sort of person who would throw them away
for no good reason.

DRILL PRESS: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat
metal stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and
flings your  beer across the room, splattering it against the Rolling
Stones poster over
the bench grinder.

WIRE WHEEL: Cleans rust off old bolts and then throws them somewhere
under the workbench with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprint
whorls and hard earned guitar callouses in about the time it takes you
to say, "Django
Reinhardt."

HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK: Used for lowering a Mustang to the ground after
you have installed a set of Ford Motorsports lowered road springs,
trapping the
jack handle firmly under the front air dam.

EIGHT FOOT LONG DOUGLAS FIR 2X4: Used for levering a car upward off a
hydraulic jack.

TWEEZERS: A tool used for removing wood splinters.

PHONE: Tool for calling your neighbor Chris to see if he has another
hydraulic floor jack.

SNAP-ON GASKET SCRAPER: Theoretically useful as a sandwich tool for
spreading mayonnaise, used mainly for getting dog-doo off your boot.

E-Z OUT BOLT AND STUD EXTRACTOR: A tool that snaps off in bolt holes and
is ten times harder than any known drill bit.

TIMING LIGHT: A stroboscopic instrument for illuminating grease buildup
o=
n crankshaft pulleys.

TWO-TON HYDRAULIC ENGINE HOIST: A handy tool for testing the tensile
strength of ground straps and hydraulic clutch lines you may have
forgotten
to disconnect.

CRAFTSMAN 1/2 X 16" SCREWDRIVER: A large motor mount prying tool that
inexplicably has an accurately machined screwdriver tip on the end
without the handle. 

BATTERY ELECTROLYTE TESTER: A handy tool for transferring sulfuric acid
from a car battery to the inside of your toolbox after determining that
your
battery is dead as a doornail, just as you thought.

AVIATION METAL SNIPS: See hacksaw.

TROUBLE LIGHT: The mechanic's own tanning booth. Sometimes called a drop
light, it is a good source of Vitamin D, "the sunshine vitamin," which
is
not otherwise found under cars at night. Health benefits aside, its main
purpose is to consume 40-watt light bulbs at about the same rate that
105
mm howitzer shells might be used during, say, the first few hours of the
Battle of the Bulge. More often dark then light, its name is
somewhatmisleading.

PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER: Normally used to stab the lids of old-style
paper-and-tin oil cans and splash oil on your shirt, it can also be
used,
as the name implies, to round off Phillips screw heads.

AIR COMPRESSOR: A machine that takes energy produced in a coal-burning
power plant 200 miles away and transforms it into compressed air that
travels by hose to a Chicago Pneumatic impact wrench that grips rusty
suspension bolts last tightened 40 years ago by someone in Solihull,
England and rounds
them off.

Cheers...
John Tackley
Richmond, VA

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 06:39:35 -0800
From: "Christopher H. Dow" <dow@thelen.org>
Subject: Re: NLA Parts

Paul Quin wrote:
> Hi Nate,

OK, So I'm not Nate, but hey, we're e-buddies.

> How did you arrange to have the fender (wing) skins shipped over here?
> I'll be looking at the same purchase in the not to distant future (I
> hope)

The stuf I get from Craddocks is usually sent DHL 3-day.

> How much did they quote you for freight?

Multiply the weight pounds by 10 for the UK pounds ;-).

C

------------------------------

From: JDolan2109@aol.com
Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 11:05:11 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Not LR, but Rover related...

Unfortunately, and sadly, I will announce that I have 3 (three) P5, 3 Litre
Saloons for sale. They are advertised in the November issue of Hemmings Motor
News. All are MkII's, and also automatics. They are complete vehicles. The
advertised price is $1600 for the lot. I would separate them, and sell a
singular one that runs and drives (and is close to being ready for paint) and
the other two as a pair to make a restoration project. "Olive(r)" is not
involved in this transaction. Fortunately, I have been able to obtain storage
for them to facilitate finding them a good home, but a speedy sale is sought,
hence the stated price. Any interested parties please respond quickly, and
directly via e-mail to the below address. Also available for little or no
money are 2 (two) P6's, one a TC and the other a SC. All vehicles are in
central Vermont. I have a few series Land-Rovers "on the block" as well,
please inquire.

I have discovered that the only thing that I may truly depend upon is my
Rover...
jim   '60 P5  MkI  4spd w/OD   "Olive(r)"
         '61 Land-Rover   "Nicky"
jdolan2109@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 12:21:50 -0400
From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Rochesters really suck!!

Tackley, John wrote:
> For those of you following the misadventures of Rochester...
> Last night I installed a #50 jet in the Rochester Model B carb.  Just
> the jet, nothing else.(wanted to test if the acc. pump rod, which seemed
> tight in the bore, was the cause of the hesitation)
> Solved all the problems experienced with the #48.
> No more lean condition and no more backfiring.

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 47 lines)]
> (low rpm)).
>          [ truncated by lro-lite (was 6 lines)]
You Have it back to front the longer ones are the hotter as plugs are
cooled through the body of the plug and the cylinder block. Hence your
rn12y is hotter than an rn9y. Plugs are so cheap why not treat the Rover
to a new set rather than the cast offs from your other oil leaker?
      John and Muddy

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 12:31:22 -0400
From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Voltage Regulator Test Procedure

Brian Cramer wrote:
> Can anyone describe the test procedure for the voltage regulator on a late
> IIa? The unit has a plastic cover that is secured with plastic rivets. Is
> it serviceable? The only test I've come across deals with the older type
> were the cover is secured with a bale. Any advice would be appreciated.
> Cheers,

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 18 lines)]
> '89 Range Rover (For Sale: $10,995)
> '70 IIa SW
If memory serves me well under the plastic cover the internals of the
regulator are the same thus the adjustments would be as for the older
style.   John and muddy

------------------------------

From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Subject: RE: subscribe
Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 08:51:37 -0800

Hi Michael,

To susbscribe to the LR list, you must send your request to:
majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net

Once subscribed, you then send messages to: lro@playground.sun.com

Paul.

>-----Original Message-----
>From:	Michael A Smith [SMTP:masmith@barint.on.ca]
>Sent:	Tuesday, October 28, 1997 4:42 PM
>To:	lro@playground.sun.com
>Subject:	subscribe

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 12 lines)]
>Subject:	subscribe
>subscribe

------------------------------

From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Subject: RE: Electrical Problems
Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 08:56:29 -0800

When installing a battery, try to arrange it so that the positive
terminal is the furthest away from the bonnet stay, lessening the
likelihood (no pun intended) of a short.

Of course if you're positively grounded, put the neg. terminal furthest
away...

Paul.

>-----Original Message-----
>From:	CIrvin1258@aol.com [SMTP:CIrvin1258@aol.com]
>Sent:	Wednesday, October 29, 1997 3:25 AM
>To:	lro@playground.sun.com
>Subject:	Re: Electrical Problems

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 21 lines)]
>working.
>Charles

------------------------------

From: "Tackley, John" <jtackley.dit@state.va.us>
Subject: RE: Rochesters really suck!!
Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 12:48:37 -0500

>>Plugs are so cheap why not treat the Rover
>>to a new set rather than the cast offs from your other oil leaker?
> >     John and Muddy
>Hey, Watch it there!  I resemble that remarque!! ;-)
>John Tackley
>74 SIII 88 "Leaker"
>70 SIIA 88 "Leaking..."
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 11 lines)]
>89 FLHS "Leak-est"
>Richmond, VA

------------------------------

From: "Tackley, John" <jtackley.dit@state.va.us>
Subject: RE: Rochesters really suck!!
Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 12:57:48 -0500

Let's try this again....
>>>Plugs are so cheap why not treat the Rover
>>>to a new set rather than the cast offs from your other oil leaker?
>	 [ truncated by lro-lite (was 11 lines)
>>John and Muddy
>Hey! Watch it there!!  I resemble that remarque!!! ;-)
>John Tackley
>74 SIII 88  "Leaker"
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 12 lines)]
>>89 FLHS "Leak-est"
>>Richmond, VA

------------------------------

From: "Tackley, John" <jtackley.dit@state.va.us>
Subject: RE: Rochesters really suck!!
Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 13:05:12 -0500

>Shall I try this again.......Nah!!  Server/lro-lite  must be a LUCAS
>product......
>>>Let's try this again....
>>>>Plugs are so cheap why not treat the Rover
>>>>to a new set rather than the cast offs from your other oil leaker?
>	 [ truncated by lro-lite (was 12 lines)]
>>>89 FLHS "Leak-est"
>>>Richmond, VA

------------------------------

From: "Lowe, Dave J" <LoweDJ@BP.com>
Subject: RE: Rochesters really suck!!
Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 12:29:26 -0500

Hot versus cold plugs can be determined by the length of the ceramic.
The shorter the ceramic, the more heat is transferred to the plug body
and into the engine.  The more rapid dissipation of heat generated at
the plug tips lets the plug run cooler.   Hotter plugs have longer
ceramics, which result in more heat retention at the tip resulting in
hotter burning.  Hence select a long ceramic plug if your engine runs
rich, is old and low on compression and uses a little oil.   If your
plugs look a nice light brown color your are doing fine.  If they are
sooty black or wet black and oily, you need a hotter plug, or perhaps
new valve seals or an engine rebuild if compression is low.

Run a cool plug when you have a new engine and are running a lean
mixture.  Lean mixtures burn hotter and can result in plug melt down if
you lean your carb to much by putting too small of jets in.  

Dave Lowe
66 109 Safari Wagon
68 NADA 109 Safari Wagon

> ----------
> From: 	Tackley, John[SMTP:jtackley.dit@state.va.us]
> Sent: 	Wednesday, October 29, 1997 4:04 AM
> To: 	lro@playground.sun.com
> Subject: 	Rochesters really suck!!

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 61 lines)]
> (low rpm)).
> 	 [ truncated by lro-lite (was 6 lines)]

------------------------------

From: "Erik Rameson" <Erameson@email.msn.com>
Subject: unsubscribe
Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 06:35:13 -0800

unsubscribe

-Thanks
ERIK RAMESON
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-lro-digest@playground.sun.com
<owner-lro-digest@playground.sun.com>
Date: Wednesday, October 29, 1997 3:59 AM
Subject: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

>Land-Rover-Owner List &  Land Rover Owner Daily Digest List
>        are proudly sponsored by the
>        Empire Rover Owners Society
>                "Serving the Great State of New York, the Empire State,
>                     and former British Colonials, everywhere !"
>Tired of Too Much E-mail ?  -- Go Wired !  read this digest daily at

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 22 lines)]
> with the text: unsubscribe lro-digest
>Tell your friends SUBSCRIBE send a message to:
MajorDomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net
>with the text: subscribe lro-digest
>Majordomo can also respond to other commands, send text: help
>   Contents:
> Message Digest Contents
> msg Sender                             Lines Subject
>Tired of Too Much E-mail ?  -- Go Wired !  read this digest daily at

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 62 lines)]
>On Tue, 28 Oct 1997 Solihull@aol.com wrote:
>> patterns that would be good for rover duty. If I can't scare up some
16inch
>> rims soon at a reasonable price, I may go with them for Pansy. Anybody
tried
>> these?
>> Cheers!!
>> John Dillingham
>Which are these?  I have not seen anything in 9.5 that is bigger than 30"
>across.  I should like to gain the height, and I am not sure that 10.5"
>are safe on the stock 15" wheels.  What I have been looking are Dunlop's
>Radial rover RV or maybe the Radial Mud Rover.  I have heard good things
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 96 lines)]
>I'm not sure even about 9.50's on 15" rims. This is all getting a bit wide,
>I think. At least it will increase your turning circle (maybe still ok for
a SWB)
>and strengthen your arms ;-)
>Another point is that you will significantly change your gearing, unless
>you do something to your diffs or t-box. That's why I thought about putting
>9.50x16 on my 110. But I gave this thought up because the 2.5 n.a. diesel
is
>too whimpy. May be I'll take that up again if I find a cheap Tdi 200.
>Just some thoughts,
>Franz
>Franz Parzefall                franz@physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de
>    http://www.physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de/~franz
>       _______
>      [____|\_\==
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 19 lines)]
>Subject: Rebuild install
>I am in the process of rebuilding a 2.25 petrol (the head and block just
went
>ot the machine shop  on the 27th).  What should I look out for as I get
into it
>more and any warnings when i go to install it in my SIII?
>Replacing all
>gaskets, will wait to hear from shop if I need new pistons (there is some
>Franz Parzefall                franz@physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de
wear,
>but I don't know how much), bearings, timing  chain, tensioner and chain
gear,
>(springs and valves look good), what elese do i need to look out for?
> Hope I didn't open a huge can o' worms.
>Thanks
>Paul G
>SIII SWB "Grendal"
>------------------------------
>      [____|\_\==
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 18 lines)]
>> On Tue, Oct 28, 1997 at 07:02:14AM -0500, David Scheidt wrote:
>> > Which are these?  I have not seen anything in 9.5 that is bigger than
30"
>> > across.
>> theoretically: 9.5 * 2 + 15 = 34 ....
>I should have been clearer.  I meant 9.5 wide and 30 in in diameter.
>'merkin tire sizes are odd.
>> > I should like to gain the height, and I am not sure that 10.5"
>> > are safe on the stock 15" wheels.
>> I'm not sure even about 9.50's on 15" rims. This is all getting a bit
>      [_-__|__|_-]      Brumml, exmil. 1989 Land Rover 110 2.5D

wide,
>> I think. At least it will increase your turning circle (maybe still ok
for a SWB)
>> and strengthen your arms ;-)
>I have 30X9.5X15 on the thing now.  I should point out that the PO
>un-riveted the center section of the rim and welded it in backwards.  The
>result is a pretty mongo offset.  so I can crank the wheels as far off
>center as with the stock things.  And the steering effort is about the
>same--which probably has resulted in increased arm  strength over the past
>10000 miles.  (already?  wow, I only bought the thing in july.
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 11 lines)]
>> Another point is that you will significantly change your gearing, unless
>> you do something to your diffs or t-box. That's why I thought about
putting
>> 9.50x16 on my 110. But I gave this thought up because the 2.5 n.a. diesel
is
>> too whimpy. May be I'll take that up again if I find a cheap Tdi 200.
>I have a pretty hopped-up 2.25 petrol (big overbore, 2.5 cam 2bl weber,
>custome intake, headers,  no supercharger though ), so I would also
>aprreciate that 70mph comes at lower revs.
>> Another point is that you will significantly change your gearing, unless
>David
>10000 miles.  (already?  wow, I only bought the thing in july.
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 46 lines)]
>> center as with the stock things.
>That will stress your wheel bearings a bit more, but as long as you don't
drive
>dirt roads all the time...
>> I have a pretty hopped-up 2.25 petrol (big overbore, 2.5 cam 2bl weber,
>> custome intake, headers,  no supercharger though ),
>You don't own a filling station, do you?  ;-)
>With German fuel prices such an engine would make me starve...
>> so I would also aprreciate that 70mph comes at lower revs.
>I'd appriciate that, too, but even more if I could reach them faster.
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 29 lines)]
>Subject: Re: Rebuild install
>>I am in the process of rebuilding a 2.25 petrol (the head and block just
went
>>ot the machine shop  on the 27th).  What should I look out for as I get
>>into it
>>more and any warnings when i go to install it in my SIII?
>When you get the block back from the shop go to your nearest carwash/ power
>washer and blast out all the holes in the block.  you will never believe
>all the crap that will come out.  My friend just went through this.
>>Replacing all
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 40 lines)]
>HOWEVER...when I use 8:1 spark plugs and set the timing for 8:1 it
>backfires and runs terribly, leading me to believe that it's actually a
7:1.
>My question is this: how can I work out the compression ratio - I theorised
>that, as it's a normally-aspirated engine, then the pressure at the bottom
>of the stroke is ambient (1 bar), so, if I find the pressure at the top of
>the stroke (again in bar), then I'll have the compression ratio.
>Is this a valid theory, or just a load of cobblers??.  I'm thinking of
>buying a compression gauge to do the test - would this be the right
>procedure??
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 32 lines)]
> all the crap that will come out.  My friend just went through this. >>
>I would personally never go back to a machine shop that did not clean out
the
>swarf after machining.  I consider that part of what I pay for.
>my 2p worth
>Nate
>------------------------------
>From: DEFENDER@ibm.net
>Date: Tue, 28 Oct 1997 10:21:41 -0800
>procedure??
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 59 lines)]
>> I've already made a downpayment for a Land Rover Discovery ES 1998,
>> authomatic, with two air bags and leather seats. The dealer tells me it
is not
>> possible to get that vehicle in White colour. Is that correct? If you
cannot
>> answer that question, could you refer me to another e-mail?
>> Thanks for your time!
>> Subject:       Inquire
>> Date:          Thu, 16 Oct 1997 00:32:03 -0300
>LRO SHOP (NORTH AMERICA)
>------------------------------
>procedure??
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 66 lines)]
>> The instrument panel has two 'clocks' one the speedo and another which
>> shows amps and fuel (with a little red light at the bottom of it). Both
are
>> land rover units but I wondered about the originality of the second unit,
> [ truncated by list-digester (was 16 lines)]
>> Can anyone shed any light.
>> Alan
>Wow it took a year to get this message...  Your e-mail zipped back into
>my archives when my machine saw your date.  I have a hard enough time
>with time zones but this.....  :)
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 66 lines)]
>Do any of you have the 16x5"rims?  If so what tires do you use.
>I am finding it next to impossible to locate a tire that will fit;
especially a mud/off road type tire.
>Any pointers would be greatly appreciated, especially from those having
success with tires on these rims.
>Thanks a lot,
>Jesse Easudes
>'60 SII SWB 2.25 l
>'73 Triumph Daytona 500cc
>------------------------------
>my archives when my machine saw your date.  I have a hard enough time
>with time zones but this.....  :)
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 15 lines)]
>What say we put some bars of Ivory in a sock and "trow him a beatin'". Give
>him a "spot ov bovver" too. Oh lamentable Fate when our beloved marque is
in
>the hands of glam punks doing fashion. Cheers. Andy Blackley (not really
such
>a trog)
>------------------------------
>From: AKBLACKLEY@aol.com
>Date: Tue, 28 Oct 1997 11:33:10 -0500 (EST)
>Subject: SII Cutting out
>Phil: Check the ignition switch. If its bad it would do what you describe.
>with time zones but this.....  :)
>      [_-__|__|_-]      Brumml, exmil. 1989 Land Rover 110 2.5D

No
>horns or wipers, but the truck still runs would be a bad fuse or a poor fit
>of the fuse in the fuse block. All accessories working, but the truck wont
>run would be indicative of a problem in the ignition system/ distributor.
>Everything cutting out (often intermitent) sounds like a bad ignition
switch.
>I dont have a copy of the SIIA wiring diagram naymore, perhaps some kind
soul
>on the List will fax you one. If you dont have a workshop manual you nedd
one
>ASAP. Need a factory parts catalog too, IMHO. You can get these at a good
>price from the LROI Bookshop (no connections, usual disclaimers, etc.)
>http://web.idirect.com/~lroshop/index.html Hope this helps. Cheers. Andy
>Blackley
>------------------------------
>Date: Tue, 28 Oct 1997 09:02:49 -0800 (PST)
>From: gpool@pacific.net (Granville Pool)
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 40 lines)]
>reasonable increase in height and clearance and I think you'll find the
>gearing satisfactory.  I found the gearing with 31" tires reasonable but
was
>sometimes wishing for a lower low-low when doing downgrades.  With Don's
33"
>tires, that was a serious concern.  I'm going to soon be fitting 32" tires
>(265/75R16 BFG MTs on 7"x16" wheels) and am also going to be mating a
Series
>II transfer case to my Series III gearbox so that I will have lower low
>gears to go with these taller tires.  Since the high-range gearing will not
>be appreciably different, I'll be geared up a bit on the road which is good
>because I have no overdrive (and don't want one).
>Cheers,
>Granny
>From: gpool@pacific.net (Granville Pool)
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 17 lines)]
>What say we put some bars of Ivory in a sock and "trow him a beatin'". Give
>him a "spot ov bovver" too. Oh lamentable Fate when our beloved marque is
in
>>the hands of glam punks doing fashion. Cheers. Andy Blackley (not really
such
>>a trog)
>Dunno 'bout that,but if its the bloke I think it is we could have a
>whip round and get him a haircut.Whether he wants it or not.*Without*
>the option of a perm instead...........
>Cheers
>Mike Rooth
>------------------------------
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 19 lines)]
>> the hands of glam punks doing fashion.
>Cheer up, think of all the money LR will be able to soak out ofthe salon
crowd :)
>cheers,
>Jeremy
>------------------------------
>Date: Tue, 28 Oct 1997 09:19:31 -0800 (PST)
>From: gpool@pacific.net (Granville Pool)
>Mike Rooth
>------------------------------
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 15 lines)]
>>Do any of you have the 16x5"rims?  If so what tires do you use.
>>I am finding it next to impossible to locate a tire that will fit;
especially a
>>mud/off road type tire.
>My first Land-Rover was a '59 88 that was fitted with 7.50x16 bias-ply
>------------------------------
tires
>on the stock 5"x16" wheels.  I had to adjust the steering stops a wee bit
to
>stop rubbing on the inside (left front only, as I recall).  A 7.00x16 is a
>better fit and the gearing is a bit better too (31" vs. 32" for a 7.50x16).
>The catch is that 7.00x16 is nigh on impossible to find any more,
especially
>in a radial.  7.50R16 radials, however, you can get.  Cooper makes the
>Discoverer LT (all-terrain, v. similar to a Goodyear Wrangler AT), the STT
>(mud-terrain), and the CTD (similar to BFG Trac Edge) in 7.50R16.  Dunlop
>Radial Rover RT (a bit more aggressive than CTD or Trac Edge) is also
>available in 7.50R16.
>You will probably like the ground clearance a 7.50x16 will give but may not
>like the gearing.  An alternative is to go with a 215/85R16 which is a bit
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 51 lines)]
>>>power washer and blast out all the holes in the block.  you will never
>>>believe all the crap that will come out.  My friend just went through
this.
>My machinist has a washer that does this. He uses it several times in the
>process of block boring or whatever. I still do the quarter car wash
>(mud-terrain), and the CTD (similar to BFG Trac Edge) in 7.50R16.  Dunlop
routine
>as an inspection, but the work is usually clean. Charges an extra fifty
>bucks. Money well spent, IMHO.
>Cheers!!
>John Dillingham
>near Canton, GA
>KF4NAS     LROA #1095
>73 s3 swb 25902676b DD "Pansy"
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 25 lines)]
>Hi all,
>This is really for US folks.  I have been calling around looking for a
spare
>front panel for the wings on my early style IIa.  All the usual US suspects
>no longer have them in stock but RN had a military version with inner panel
>and front panel for the low low price of $200 (while supplies last--no
>guarantees).
>I  called Cr*dd*cks this morning, to find that they had and ended up buying
>both right and left side inner wing/front panel/top panel for $52 a side!
>(Genuine new in the box)
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 10 lines)]
>(Genuine new in the box)
>I guess the point here is if you're looking for hard to get items, it's
worth
>the call across the pond.
>Nate
>------------------------------
>From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
>Subject: RE: NLA Parts
>Date: Tue, 28 Oct 1997 10:58:46 -0800
>(Genuine new in the box)
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 126 lines)]
>Paul Gussack wrote:
>> I am in the process of rebuilding a 2.25 petrol (the head and block just
went
>> ot the machine shop  on the 27th).  What should I look out for as I get
into it
>> more and any warnings when i go to install it in my SIII?
>> Replacing all
>> gaskets, will wait to hear from shop if I need new pistons (there is some
wear,
>> but I don't know how much), bearings, timing  chain, tensioner and chain
gear,
> [ truncated by list-digester (was 15 lines)]
>> Paul G
>> SIII SWB "Grendal"
>Paul:  I ran into a few problems in the complete rebuild of "Pig". First,
>make sure your cam bearings are alright, if not, you have to strip the
>engine back out and down to the block again to replace them. Make sure
>the gear wheels ( aluminium ) on the timing chain assy are not worn, and
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 150 lines)]
>Subject: RE:smoky
>I think that smoke on startup is the cause of bad valves.  I remember Dad
saying
>that oil will seap through the valves and deposit on the piston surface.
Then
>when you start up the oil is burned.
>If you have ring problems I would see oil blowing out and loss of
>> SIII SWB "Grendal"
compression.
>You experts any advice???
>Thanks
>Geoffrey
>bobnsueb@maxinet.com (Bob and Sue Bernard):
>>Hi all,
>>This recent question has started me thinking about a friends oil smoke.
>the gear wheels ( aluminium ) on the timing chain assy are not worn, and
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 10 lines)]
>>This recent question has started me thinking about a friends oil smoke.
>>It's been a long time since someone explained how to tell if it's caused
by
>>rings or valve seals.
>>When first starting it gives lots of blue smoke.
>>Someone just said if it smokes after coasting it's the valve seals, but I
> [ truncated by list-digester (was 15 lines)]
>>Thanks
>>Bob Bernard
>------------------------------
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 21 lines)]
>it's probably a tired fusebox. Try jiggling the wires where they plug into
>the sides of the box, and see what happens. The terminals sometimes "age"
to
>the point that they are loose, and if they move enough, things will stop
>working.
>Charles
>------------------------------
>  END OF * LIST DIGEST
> Input:  messages 43 lines 2101 [forwarded 227 whitespace 396]
>------------------------------
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 31 lines)]
>understood what you sent him, contact majordomo-owner@Land-Rover.Team.Net
>  -B

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 12:11:15 -0800
From: twakeman@scruznet.com (TeriAnn Wakeman)
Subject:  Sadly, I'm back (long)

Well, A time comes in every vacation when you need to go home. Mine came,
and I arrived home today (28 Oct) one day later than planned.

How does one describe spending over two months living in a two door 109 set
up for long range expidition with an Irish Wolfhound for company and two
camera systems to burn film in? Too short.

I almost turned around when I drove over a rise one evening to find myself
looking down on Las Vegas. The only thing that kept me going was the fact
that I was out of 120 film and only had three sheets of 4X5 film left
unexposed. I was desperate. When I reached the edge of town, I stopped to
ask for directions to a camp site. The looks I got, along with with the
replies reinforced the notion that I was in the wrong place. I thought
Flagstaff was huge. Well I got back on the freeway, wondering Westish, not
sure what to do until I saw a sign for Red Rock. I followed them North out
of the city into BLM land and parked for the night when I could see that
the Milky Way was bright. I was back to a place that made sense.

Well there isn't space to write a day to day story of the jorrney through
the west in my Rover or through my mind away from work, computers, phones
and news reports.  I will just say that I found both trips very
interesting.

WHERE DID I GO:
Basically I made a big 'O' with a lot of zig zagging in the Four corners area.
California, Oregon, Washington, British Columbia (including Vancouver
island), Alberta, Montana, Wyoming, Utah, Colorado, New Mexico, Arizona,
and Nevada.

I made stops at the Portland All British Field meet, wondered Vancouver
island back logging roads, Went  through Jasper National Park,  Banff
National Park, Kootenay National Park, Glacier National Park, Yellow stone
National Park, Grand Teton National Park, Flaming Gorge National rec. area,
Dinosaur National Monument, Colorado National Monument, Arches National
Park,  nearby BLM land, Canyonland National Park where I was escorted out
by a ranger after one and a half days along the White rim trail because I
had a dog inside my car,  Mesa Verde National Park, Hovenweep National
monument, Canyon de Chelly National Monument, through the painted desert
and Flagstaff to Sunset Crater and Wupatki National monuments, through
Monument Valley, to Natural Bridges National Monument,  cut through Glen
Canyon rec area  tip Capitol Reef National Park,  Brice Canyon National
Park, Zion National Park,  Suffered a major culture shock in las Vegas,
Red Rock, Death Valley, British Pacific in "Beautiful Downtown Burbank"
then home.   I really needed a year for the trip... maybe four or five.

How the car made it:
As many of you know, I was busy trying to get the car ready through the
last minute and ended up reserving a day at Doug Shippman's shop to get
more done.  The car was painted 1972 Jaguar British Racing Green about a
week before I left home.

Off and on rain on the first leg gave me plenty of time to locate holes in
the pop up cloth and seal them with water bed cement (this works really
well).  After the Portland meet,  I went to Dougs place where: the new left
front fuel tank out rigger was installed along with the front left fuel
tank that I carried on the roof rack;  the newly set up Quafe limited slip
was installed in the front; the Kodiak heater core was boiled out (its a
lot warmer now); the seat belt for the driver's side was reinstalled (John
I really did have one with me), and the new rear check straps were
installed.

I'm very happy with the Quaife on the front.  I was going to put on a ARB
on the rear then a limited slip on the front later.  BP's daily special
convinced me to change my mind.  I first tried it out on some main dirt &
gravel logging roads in Vancouver island.I started out conservative then
built up to taking the windy main logging roads up to 45 MPH on some
curves.  Some people had been saying how squirrely limited slips could be
on slippery surfaces & loose gravel.  I wanted first hand experience under
controlled conditions.  The nose went exactly where I pointed it every time
without a hint of misbehaving.  Later I tried it on an icy, muddy section
of dirt road in Jasper next to a glacier during the first snow of the
season.  The car went exactly where I pointed it with no problems.  I took
a section or the Oregon trail in Wyoming the day after a rain.  The trail
had been dozed flat for the recent reenactments and had rain gutters on
each side. It was also very sticky clay.  The mud terrains quickly became
coated with a couple inches of clay along the outer diameter.  But I made
it just fine with mud rolling on mud along the trails.  Of course I was
sliding quite a bit and dropped a rear tyre in a gutter every so often.
I'm positive that without the quaife on the front I would have had one rear
wheel spinning in the gutter and one spinning on the top without the
Quaife.  As it was I had better steering than I expected and didn't get
stuck on that or other gooey wet clay excursions I made on the trip. But I
did discover that if you densely coat a propane regulator you will not get
gas to the stove.  I did some rock crawling, including slip rock and some
sand traveling.  The Quaife on the front never misbehaved, and got me
through a couple of places I would have been in deep trouble without a
second car and nothing to tie a winch cable to.  I have decided that this
was an excellent investment.

I discovered that the front wheel locks are set a little off at full
upwards articulation when I came down of a rock at full wheel lock.  The
edge of a tyre caught the lower edge of the right inner fender and folded
it up and into the tyre area.  The lower rear mounting hole ripped open and
left the bolt & flat washer in place.  After removing the front wheel, it
took three of us to get it back straight enough and braced behind the right
steering box post so I could get moving again.

On rough washboard, the hood pin I have to latch down the bonnet cracked at
the 'U' shaped base.  I was watching the spare tyre & bonnet vibrate.  I
tied down the bonnet.  I will be putting the LR military bonnet latches on
each side and making a new base for the hood pin.  My hope is that the pull
of the latches will put tension on each side & cut down on bonnet
vibrations.

Coming out of a side canyon in Death Valley, the lower bolt holding on the
bracket that the right engine mount is bolted to fell off.  I believe it
was a result of severe washbording.  I had just completed some minor rock
crawling and was crossing some recent wash ruts when the fan hit the
shroud.  The bracket pivoted around the upper mounting bolt shearing the
right engine mount, dropping the right side of the engine nearly 2 inches
lower and about an inch to the right. This sheared the left engine mount.
I did not have a jack that would allow me to lift the engine.  I pulled the
fan splash shield, and bent the lower radiator shroud towards the engine,
holding it out with a pair of sticks wedged between the shroud and
radiator.  The transmission mounts were still in good shape.  This got the
shroud off the fan.  From that point I very carefully crept out the last
few miles out.  I  carefully drove the car all the way to British Pacific,
stopping on occasion to adjust the shroud and carb linkage when the engine
shifted.  I actually had to air down for the interstate because the bumps
were shifting the engine too much.  I replaced the engine mounts at BP and
was off again.

In central Montana I melted a inline fuse holder.  I rewired the car last
December and added a number of fuses.  One was an inline fuse holder fusing
the headlamp circuit.  I have driven with brights for short times since
then.  I had been driving all day with headlamps on for safety.  When night
fell, I went to brights so I could pick up deer or antelope eyes out
farther away and slow down.  Out in the middle of the Montana Teton plains
my headlights went out.  Everything else worked.  I pulled the instrument
panel to check the headlamp fuse.  It was a new inline fuse & I could not
get it to open.  I crept up the road a bit until I found a dirt road going
into a ranch.  I pulled in & off the dirt road then hiked to a ranch house
to get permission to spend the night.  The next morning I disassembled the
fuse holder.  The fuse was in good shape.  It looked like there was a high
resistance crimp on one of the contacts that heated up and melted the
plastic of the fuse holder.  That was replaced the next day in Helena with
borrowed solder gun.

The last storm I encountered was heading into Monument Valley from
Flagstaff.  This was a hail storm.  The wipers were pushing lots of hail
off a dry windscreen and a nylon gear broke on the driver's wiper motor.

So damage on the trip was:

1. A nylon wiper motor broke

2. I bent up the front right inner wing panel from too tight a setting on
the front wheel locks

3. A defective fuse holder broke

4.  A hood pin mount broke from metal fatigue.  (the hood pin was a mod
done by a previous owner to lock the bonnet.  I kept it because of the
holes in the bonnet made for it.)

5. An engine mount bracket fixing bolt vibrating out causing both engine
mounts to shear.

I had two disasters on the trip.

The first was my passenger side door popping open on a freeway.  I was in
Portland and had made a wrong turn onto a freeway.  I had to go across the
Columbia river , make a turn in Vancouver Washington then cross back over
the river to exit.  Just past the bridge South the door popped open.  I
lost my tool box, the dog's water dish, a gallon of antifreeze, a couple
quarts of oil, and a full package of pigs ears (dog treats).  By the time I
got off the freeway, hung a 'U' turn s way down the street, got back on the
freeway, crossed the river into Washington, made another 'U' turn, and
crossed back into Oregon, the tools, stainless steel water dish, and pigs
ears were gone.  I got to purchase some new replacement tools along the
way.

The other occurred in Arches National Park. I borrowed a pair of roof rack
hold down clamps from Nick for the trip.  They are off the roof rack on his
88.  He asked me to be carefully with them.  I ran both the non paved
trails in Arches.  The first was to an arch and past some interesting
rocks.  I checked the clamps for tightness when I went in and came out like
I have been doing throughout the trip.  One was a little lose at the end of
that run.  I tightened it down then went to the parking lot for the
delicate arch.  I send a couple of hours hiking up to the arch, deciding
that there were too many people in the way for a decent picture & hiking
back.  Back at the car, I looked at the map and noticed the second trail,
into cache canyon started in the nearby delicate arch view point parking
lot.  I drove over there and headed out.  I spent the night on the trail
after doing a bunch of road construction along the way.  Next morning I
happily went on my way.  A short time farther, I was descending a steep
hill when my roof rack landed on my bonnet mounted spare tyre.  My roof
rack is an old Brown church Dormobile roof rack with the hold down clamps
missing.  The front mounts are secured to the base of the windscreen.  The
racked pivoted on the front mounts landing vertically on the spare. A good
set of bungie cords kept everything in place.  I couldn't stop on the steep
hill but there was a little space to see through for the rest of the
decent.  When I got to the bottom I pivoted the rack back up.  I had a
gallon container of 90 wt that opened, pouring 90 wt oil all over the  rear
tent and the shower tent as well as everything else.  For weeks afterwards
every time it got hot or rained, I had 90 wt pouring down the front of the
windscreen.  of course since I had nothing to clean the tents with they
stayed on the rack for the rest of the trip.  But the real disaster is that
Nicks clamps were missing.  I walked the entire tail back to the parking
lot on one side and back to the car on the other side looking for the
clamps ( about 2 miles each way).  I had not checked them for tightness
going in since I had only driven less than 5 miles on pavement since I last
checked them.  I had driven a lot rougher tails including some with harsh
wash boarding previously without problems.  The only conclusion that I
could come to was that  while I was looking at the delicate arch, someone
decided that they wanted the clamps more than I did.  Since the clamps are
borrowed, the person was very wrong.  Now I need to face Nick & do what I
can to make it right.  Bummer.

Best times:
I can not come close on this. I went to so many places that I had never
seen, met many interesting people and had such a good time.  Of course a
highlight, as always, had to have been the Portland All British Field meet.
I had a great time chatting with people I only see once a year.  I had a
wonderful time showing off the Green Rover.  It was her first public
showing with the full interior installed and her new paint.  This car was
the perpetual ugly duckling at any meet or run before.  This time I was
able to show her off with pride instead of explanations of how it was going
to look when finished.  During the whole trip I was constantly giving tours
to strangers who were asking about the car.  Many people took photographs
of her.  When I finally was on my way out of the cache canyon trail in
Arches, two people in the parking lot noticed her coming and took a series
of photographs of her making it out.  After all the work I have put into
her during the last couple of years it was gratifying to see that lots of
people appreciated it.

Except for losing Nicks clamps, I had a great time and want to do it again
for longer.

TeriAnn Wakeman            For personal mail, please start subject line
Santa Cruz California      with TW.  I belong to 4 high volume mail lists
twakeman@scruznet.com      and do not read a lot of threads..Thanks

"The box said 'Requires Windows 95, or better.' So I bought a Macintosh."

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 15:41:18 -0400 (EDT)
From: nelsml73@snyoneva.cc.oneonta.edu
Subject: Frame coating

	Has anyone coated a GALVANIZED frame for corrosion and abrasion
resistance? Irealize this may be gilding the lily or overkill but I want
my rover to last much longer than it originally did, and since I have a
new frame I was wondering if anyone had done this or had any tips.

thanks
matt Nelson

------------------------------

From: Craig  Murray <craigm@bcn.com.au>
Subject: Tyres
Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 09:29:04 +1100

Hello All,
	Tyres, tyres, tyres, where to begin.

	16x5"rims, technically you are not meant to run anything bigger
than 7.00's on these rims, but I have seen many people running 7.50's on
them, infact I did this, until I managed to break one of the rims, when
it came loose.  As for increasing the gearing, just about every Land
Rover I have seen, runs 7.50x16 tyres, and I run them on my 86" with a
2.25 Diesel, and on occasion I run them on my 80" with a 2 litre petrol,
and I don't think that either of them is too under powered.

	Also of note, is people talking about tubeless tyres.  If you
are running tubeless tyres, and you do go off road, generally it is
recommended that you run tubes, I know of people that have had the tyre
pop off the bead, which is a bit of a bugger to fix when you are up the
bush with tubeless tyres.

enough said.

Craig Murray
S1 1955 86" 2.25 Diesel (Off roader)
S1 1951 80" Show car (Eventually!)
Land Rover Owner Club of Victoria
Land Rover Owner Club of Gippsland

------------------------------

From: bobnsueb@maxinet.com (Bob and Sue Bernard)
Subject: overdrives
Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 15:23:20 -0800

Hi,
I wonder if any one has an easy way to ID the two type overdrives.
I have a Fairey on my 69-88 and the 65 we recently bought has one with a
shifter like the handbrake.
But, on top, it looks very similar to the Fairey, where the shift hooks on
has the same type of rod into the box.
And a friend has what he says is a Fairey with the handbrake shifter, but it
may have been kludged up by previous owner.
When I look at the suspect one from underneath however, it has a fatter case
with three ribs and about 5" long.
The known 1993 Fairey has two ribs and is about 3" long.

Thanks for the help,
Bob Bernard

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 16:36:38 -0800
From: jory bell <jory@mit.edu>
Subject: Re: Frame coating

i left my new galvanised frame uncoated. when i was last at rovers north, i
noted that they coat theirs (i think it was undercoating, but it could have
been some black paint, i forget).

::jory

>	Has anyone coated a GALVANIZED frame for corrosion and abrasion
>resistance? Irealize this may be gilding the lily or overkill but I want
>my rover to last much longer than it originally did, and since I have a
>new frame I was wondering if anyone had done this or had any tips.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Oct 1997 20:03:51 -0800
From: Dale Place <dplace@mb.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

owner-lro-digest@playground.sun.com wrote:
> Land-Rover-Owner List &  Land Rover Owner Daily Digest List
>         are proudly sponsored by the
>         Empire Rover Owners Society
>                 "Serving the Great State of New York, the Empire State,
>                      and former British Colonials, everywhere !"
> Tired of Too Much E-mail ?  -- Go Wired !  read this digest daily at

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 513 lines)]
> understood what you sent him, contact majordomo-owner@Land-Rover.Team.Net
>   -BI guess the fellows in the central U.S. really had a chance to try out 
the 4 x 4 yesterday.  We are holding our breath here since we don't have 
snow in Central Canada yet.  Have fun!  
Dave VE4PN

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 21:34:56 -0500 (EST)
From: Hank Rutherford <ruthrfrd@borg.com>
Subject: Re:Won't run without choke

daviscar wrote:
> Hi All
> I have a problem. My 88 won't run with out the choke 1/2 way on. it will
> idle, but when you try and apply gas it misses back fires through the
> exhaust all sorts of stuff.
> It have a standard Lr 2.25 motor with a solex carb.
> What I have done is the following things:

Recently had a similar experience, after I had replaced the intake manifold
and gasket. Seems that the bolts that hold the heat shield onto the manifold
go through into the intake runner. If the front bolt is left out, you have a
direct intake leak. Number two cylinder is affected most, but the engine
refused to idle below 1500 rpm without stalling, and ran like a bag of nails
through the rest of the rev range. 
Sod's Law being what it is, you probably have a Much More Serious Problem
(or three), but don't fail to look for the obvious. This one caught me out,
and I've been masquerading for years as "someone who knows what he's doing".
Oops, I guess the secret's out.
                                     Regards, Ruthrfrd@borg.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 21:44:22 -0600
From: HANSON PAUL <HANSONPA@mail.milwaukee.k12.wi.us>
Subject: Have 16" wheels+

Speaking of wheels and tires, if anyone needs a set [5] of LR Limestone 16" wheels with 
new 235-75 r16s mounted and balanced for less than I paid, let me know via the net or 
phone. 
	Keep On Rovering!
	Paul Hanson
	414-662-2536
	[Near Milwaukee]

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 21:10:54 -0800
From: twakeman@scruznet.com (TeriAnn Wakeman)
Subject: S III wiper part & advice needed

I'm about to replace the dual wiper motor system with a single wiper motor
system.  I picked up a system with a bad motor at the Portland All British
Field meet.  On the way home from my 2 month trip I picked up a new dual
speed wiper motor from British Pacific.

Needed:

1. A Series III switch for the two speed wiper and the washer motor.

2. The connector (and subharness??) that plugs into the round dual wiper motor.

Question & maybe another part request:

The system I got used has the older rectangular wiper motor.  The mounting
bracket is for that motor.  Is this from a late IIA?  Will I need a
different bracket to mount the motor?? It looks like I do.  If I need one,
does anyone have one?

A Confused mind needs to know, esp since I just lost a gear in one of my
old style motors.

HELP!

TeriAnn Wakeman            For personal mail, please start subject line
Santa Cruz California      with TW.  I belong to 4 high volume mail lists
twakeman@scruznet.com      and do not read a lot of threads..Thanks

"The box said 'Requires Windows 95, or better.' So I bought a Macintosh."

------------------------------

  END OF * LIST DIGEST 
 Input:  messages 26 lines 3551 [forwarded 1924 whitespace 711]
 Output: lines 1415 [content 2170  forwarded 384 (cut  1540) whitespace 228]

Back	Forward
Photos & text Copyright 1990-2011 Bill Caloccia, All rights reserved. Digest Messages Copyright 1990-2011 by the original poster or/and Bill Caloccia, All rights reserved.