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Date: Sun, 19 Oct 1997 03:59:48 -0700

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Date: Sun, 19 Oct 1997 14:32:49 +0200
From: Bernd Jonas <Bernd.Jonas@munich.netsurf.de>
Subject: searching for SIIa in germany
[digester: Removing section of:  Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="------------AD3BF2D0432BB29255CDCD0E" ]

Hi There!
A friend of mine is searching for a SIIa d or patrol.
The pricing should be around 4000.-DM.
If anybody knows one, please send me a line.
Thanks,
Bernd

--------------AD3BF2D0432BB29255CDCD0E

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From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Sun, 19 Oct 1997 09:11:22 -0400
Subject: Re: Petrol cap lock hasp!!

Lenny,

Remove the cover over the back - that will allow you to get at the
connections and retighten them.

               oops.....8*)

               ajr

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Date: Sun, 19 Oct 1997 07:57:51 -0700 (PDT)
From: David Rosenbaum <rosenbau@u.washington.edu>
Subject: Re: Waxoylin' da bulkhead

On Tue, 14 Oct 1997, Wayne Haight wrote:

> I'm moving from the mountains to the ocean so I guess it's time to do a
> real thorough job of Waxoyling my bulkhead. Can someone give me the
> details on how to do a REAL thorough job, i.e what holes to squirt in,
> do I take out the instrument panel and door hinges, etc...?

Dear Wayne,

I have a '94 Defender and applied waxoyl for the first time a couple of
months ago. Since the D90 has a lot of plastic covering the bulkhead on
the inside, I didn't get very far in that area. I *did* take the doors
off, and the hinge holes are good access points - I threaded tubing up as
high as I could into the pillar and sprayed waxoyl in. I diluted it with
paint thinner (mineral spirits): about 2/3 or 3/4 waxoyl and 1/3 or 1/4
thinner. I used a compressor and a spray device ('undercoater's gun') that
I bought by mail order - others on the list have said that JC Whitney also
sells one that works well.  Even when thinned, I find that waxoyl is so
thick that it doesn't pass through a nozzle: rather, you're in good shape
if you can get it to squirt out of the tubing. It's messy, but I just put
tin cans under the places where it dripped back out of the pillars and
frame. I think the Land Rover really *liked* the stuff. And although my
family complained of the 'stink', I have gotten to like it myself. The
beeswax definitely adds something!

Good luck!

Have others suggested other ways to 'get at' the bulkhead?

Best wishes,

David Rosenbaum
Seattle, WA (cool and sprinkles today.....)

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Oct 1997 17:17:59 +0200
From: Bernd Jonas <Bernd.Jonas@munich.netsurf.de>
Subject: SIIa gearbox overhauling
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Hi!
Now Iīm nearly ready to put my gearbox back to where it should be.
Nearly, because of the (new) 1/2 syncronizer. The box is now
reassembled,  the 3/4 syncron and the re works very well, but the1/2
sync. wouldnīt move anyway.
The standalone part works (like I sayd, itīs new!) and I did the
overhauling very carefully.
Any suggestions what the failure could be?
Thanks for HELP!
Bye
Bernd
PS: Greetings to Franz from munich!  ;o))

--------------D20BE932D2EBF51CAE436DD7

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Date: Sun, 19 Oct 1997 17:37:06 +0200
From: lopezba@atnet.at
Subject: Time problems force unsubscription

Dear all, during the weekend I took stock of my time situation and realized 
I *really* had to give up something. I am sorry to say that - apart from a 
few other things - the L-R lists are among the things I will give up. I 
would like to thank everybody who gave me advice over the years, and hope to 
be back next summer when a few things will have been finished.
Good rovering
Peter Hirsch
Vienna, Austria
Series One 107in Station Wagon (in bits and pieces)

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Oct 1997 18:40:46 +0200
From: Bernd Jonas <Bernd.Jonas@munich.netsurf.de>
Subject: SIIa gearbox overhauling
[digester: Removing section of:  Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="------------7A0037191120041CD5F1556E" ]

Hi!
Yes Peter youīr right.I just donīt know how to call it and there seems
to be a little frog in my head since last oktoberfest.
The part I mean has the number FRC1758, its on theprimary pinion and it
moves if you are shifting 3rd/4th, but ,as i told you,not in my gear at
the moment.
Hope you understand now what $§!?ing part I mean.

Bernd
--------------7A0037191120041CD5F1556E

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Oct 1997 13:25:16 -0400
From: Erik Van Dyck <vandycke@mailserver.volvo.com>
Subject: Nut loose behind the wheel?

Following a trail ride in the North Georgia mountains yesterday, I
noticed that my wheel was cocked about 45 degrees to the left, rather
than straight as it was prior to the off-roading.  The ride wasn't
particularly arduous, but was punctuated by hitting the end of an
immovable log with the protruding Warn free wheeling hub on the RF wheel
of my '73 Ser. III 88"  .  Yes, I know, if I didn't have the accursed
FWH I wouldn't have hit the log.  I was glad that no thumbs were in the
wheel when it spun!  In any event, the steering wheel was to the left 45
deg. as if to compensate for something bent making the car steer
right.The vehicle handled normally on the expressway drive home, the
wheel was just not straight.

This morning I crawled around under the Landy looking for something
bent, loose, displaced, or otherwise out of wack.  Everything looked
fine.  Thinking that perhaps the right side of the front axle was
perhaps pushed back on its spring I loosened the U-bolts and found that
all was fine.  I measured the wheel base of the 88 and found it the same
side to side - the axles were apparently where they should be.
I measured the toe in and found it fine to.  I checked the track and tie
rods and found all straight, no sign that anything had moved at the
treaded ends.  As only a change in the rod from right wheel (it's a LH
drive L-R) to the steeing relay or from the relay to the steering box
should change the centering of the wheel I checked those very
carefully.  Also checked were the bolts at the steering arms on the
relay and the pitman arm on the steering box.  Everything looked and
felt normal.

After several hours of measuring and checking I gave up, pulled the
steering wheel and repositioned it so that it's straight again.  I
jacked up the front end and spun the wheel freely from steering stop to
steering stop to ensure that the steering box was still reasonably
centered.  Short of running the LF FW hub into a log to equalize things
I'm out of things to do.  Any one have any suggestions for this loose
nut behind the wheel (me :) )?
  erik
Erik van Dyck
Suwanee, Georgia
1973 Series III 88" (on both sides)

------------------------------

From: DONOHUEPE@aol.com
Date: Sun, 19 Oct 1997 14:13:42 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Series Land Rover Cupholders!

Series Cupholders

On Thu, 16 Oct 1997, Dave Bobeck inquired: "This duct tape, is it available
in elephant hide?"

Dave:

You might direct this inquiry to "The Duct Tape Council" who advertise on
PBS early saturday evenings.  (in the US) Their radio commercials are
usually both informative and entertaining.

Paul (not affiliated, etc.) Donohue
Denver
1965 Land Rover 109

------------------------------

From: DONOHUEPE@aol.com
Date: Sun, 19 Oct 1997 14:16:34 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Series Land Rovers & Coffee

Alan Richter recently signed off with this cachet:

      "aj "If it ain't boiled with the grounds - it ain't coffee!"  r"

Around here this is called Cowboy Coffee.  It's not for the weak and timid.
Those lacking a tolerance should not drink it on an empty stomach.

Paul Donohue
Denver Colorado
1965 Land Rover Dormobile (with old style coffee maker)

------------------------------

From: "Tom Dixon" <tomd@clear.net.nz>
Subject: Speeding in a Rover
Date: Sun, 19 Oct 1997 18:46:53 +1300

A friend of mine got a ticket from a speed camera....... best part was he
received a photo to PROVE that his landie can go fast.

Cheers.... Tom Dixon
Zl2UPG
79 series 3 lwb (in many pieces)
tomd@clear.net.nz

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Sun, 19 Oct 1997 15:46:25 -0400
Subject: Re: Series Land Rovers & Cowboy Coffee

Yes, indeed - not for the weak and timid is a good description.

Boiled coffee, settled in the pot with the shells from your breakfast eggs
- yum.

There is enough caffiene in that to cause small children to explode.....8*)

          aj"It'll hurt you at short range!"r

------------------------------

From: Geoff_Whelan@3com.com
Date: Mon, 20 Oct 1997 09:19:56 +1000
Subject: Cracked Disco.

G'day,

My 12/94 Discovery TDI has developed cracks in the firewall in the footwell
area on both sides of the vehicle. I went off road a couple of weeks ago
and water cam in throught the normal "split" in the door seals so when I
got home I decided to dry it out.

I had to lift the carpet and sound insulation to dry it out but found there
was more dampness under the insulation that from the door leaks. On further
investigation I found that there were cracks just above a reinforcing plate
and on the left hand side the plate was actually coming away where the tack
welds had let go.  The cracks were between 2 and 3cms long and heading
towards the transmission tunnel. The engine bay side shows that the chassis
mount brackets are attached just below where the cracks are appearing so it
would seem that the chassis is flexing and the body is taking all the flex
and fatigue cracking.

Has any one else seen these cracks??

The plate on the inside appears to be some sort of attempt to strenghten
the firewall at this point but it hasn't worked to well.

I will be talking with LR to see if they will fix it under waranty (fingers
crossed)...

regards

Geoff

------------------------------

From: "Eyres, Richard RP" <Eyres.Richard.RP@bhp.com.au>
Subject: RE: Petrol cap lock hasp!!
Date: Mon, 20 Oct 1997 12:47:00 +1000

Lenny,
To access the nuts you need to remove a cover plate inside the vehicle.
This cover plate is located just behind the bulkhead behind the front
seats, and encloses the fuel tank filler neck. Typically, this is held
in place by 'non captive' nuts as well (nothing like making life
difficult is there?). I think the 'official' way to mount the hasp is
below the filler, ie hinge down. I had a narrow drive way and soon got
fed up with walking into the hasp and padlock, which stuck out proud of
the bodywork. Eventually, I took the hasp off and fitted it above the
filler, which kept in out of the way (I then shifted house, which would
have solved the problem too!). I also carefully trimmed the 'spare' lug
off the filler cap, which removed another obstacle. When refueling, the
hasp does get in the way a bit, ie you have to hold it up out of the way
to get the fuel pump nozzle in the filler, but as the whole thing is now
more or less flush with the body side, it is unlikely to get snagged by
passing undergrowth (or pedestrians)etc., so I am happy with it.
 Richard, New Zealand
1973 S3 SWB.
 ----------

>From: lenny@fof.coracle.com (Lenny Warren)
>Hi there all,
>Just ordered the petrol cap locking hasp for my ser 3 88". Thing is, it

f>its under 2 screws at the cap. I tried to undo the screws thinking
there
>were captive nuts below them, uh oh....... NOT!!! The screw seems to
have a
>nut behind it and I can't get to it. How do I get it off, and more to
the
>point HOW do I tighten it up again??????
>Please answer direct, as my digest seems to be playing up!!
>Thanks folks!!
>Catch you later,
>/_Lenny_/...

________________________________________________________________________
_____
                                                         _______
   Lenny Warren,                                    ____/_|(__)|
   Strathaven, Scotland, UK.                        |--|__|_--_|
__ 1980 ser III 88" Diesel   _____" LURCH
"__________(o)____(o)______________
________________________________________________________________________
_____

... Was you born that way, or did your mama marry an Jeep?
 --- Terminate 5.00/Pro /*Land-Rover*/ /_Best_/ /_4x4xFAR_/
 --
| Fidonet:  Lenny Warren 2:258/1.12
| Internet: lenny@fof.coracle.com

------------------------------

From: IBEdwardp@aol.com
Date: Sun, 19 Oct 1997 21:01:50 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: speeding in the IIA...

In a message dated 97-10-18 01:12:59 EDT, you write:

<< I was going 64
 miles an hour!!! >>
So how does one stop a IIa that attains 64 mph?

Ed Bailey
66IIa 88

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Oct 1997 22:10:38 -0300
From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: speeding in the IIA...

IBEdwardp@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 97-10-18 01:12:59 EDT, you write:
> << I was going 64
>  miles an hour!!! >>
> So how does one stop a IIa that attains 64 mph?
> Ed Bailey

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 10 lines)]
> Ed Bailey
> 66IIa 88
A flashing red light in the mirror will usually do the trick
  John and Muddy

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From: "bos" <bos@bellsouth.net>
Subject: D90 ACCESORIES!!!!!
Date: Sun, 19 Oct 1997 22:30:33 -0500

1.  Safari Gard OEM ROCK SLIDERS, never mounted, unpainted $350 plus
shipping

2.  Safari Gard OEM REAR BUMPERETTES, never mounted, unpaited $275 plus
shipping

3.  Mantec Snorkel OEM, never used or mounted  $275 plus shipping

Take it all for $850 plus shipping!!!!!

bos@bellsouth.net

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Oct 1997 23:08:25 +0000
From: Ian Harper/Donna-Claire McLeod <tantramar@golden.net>
Subject: +ve to -ve....

Ahem...(I knew I should have been paying attention the first time this
topic went around......)

I would like to change to -ve ground, but I would like to keep the
generator (I'm assuming it works-hmmmm).  Can I simply reverse the
terminals, and repolarise the starter and generator?

It seems pretty straightforward, however can I then use the old Voltage
regulator, or is that strictly for +ve ground?  Or, if I need a new
regulator for -ve, should I stay with the +ve until the switch over to
an alternator?  

And finally, how should I wire it with the forethought that I may want
to change to an alternator in the future?  ie can the voltage regulator
just be taken out and the wiring be rerouted?

I'm starting from scratch with the wiring system so I have the luxury of
doing whatever I need to, but don't tell me to change over to an
alternator, as I can't afford one yet!!!

So many Questions, but you get the jist of it.......any suggestions
would be helpful!!!!

Cheers, Ian
-- 
Ian Harper/Donna Claire McLeod
http://www.golden.net/~tantramar
Tantramar House Bed and Breakfast
Stratford, Ontario
Phone(519) 273-7771  Fax (519) 273-3993

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From: "Cooper, Paul" <P.Cooper@shu.ac.uk>
Date: Mon, 20 Oct 1997 10:26:04 +0100

unsubscribe LRO

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