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| msg | Sender | lines | Subject |
| 1 | eheite@dmv.com (Ned Heit | 27 | 19 Miles Per Gallon! |
| 2 | CIrvin1258@aol.com | 22 | Re: "Emergency" |
| 3 | lopezba@atnet.at | 38 | Re ARO and Ural |
| 4 | Anthony Sanna [asanna@sa | 37 | [not specified] |
| 5 | Wesley Harris [wharris@m | 16 | windscreen sealer |
| 6 | Jeremy Bartlett [bartlet | 20 | Re: Mantec intake install |
| 7 | Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lo | 12 | Re: windscreen sealer |
| 8 | NADdMD@aol.com | 24 | Re: windscreen sealer |
| 9 | The Bickertons [Bickerto | 54 | Jag V12's, tyres, and Haynes manuals |
| 10 | "Tom Dixon" [tomd@clear. | 29 | Swap meet |
| 11 | James Wolf [J.Wolf@world | 15 | Ref; silicone brake fluid |
| 12 | James Wolf [J.Wolf@world | 9 | sticky steering wheel. |
| 13 | pscales@blvl.igs.net (P. | 13 | Re: Haynes manuals |
| 14 | Daniel Oppenheim [daniel | 27 | Parts for sale |
| 15 | Alan Boyer [aboyer@inter | 6 | unsubscribe |
Date: Sat, 11 Oct 1997 08:09:29 -0500 From: eheite@dmv.com (Ned Heite) Subject: 19 Miles Per Gallon! Going down to Mid-Atlantic, Baby developed a funny miss and backfired her muffler to smithereens. She ran terribly and got 10 miles per gallon. Thank heaven for vendors onsite, especially British Bulldog, who consumed most of my mad money for a carb and an exhaust system. And thanx to a new friend from Ohio who found the busted wire in the distributor that had caused all the trouble. While under the hood, we (they, actually) replaced the carb with a Spanish Zenith lookalike aftermarket ripoff. On the way home, Baby achieved 19 MPG. I am not making this up. 19 MPG in a IIA. Wow. 19 MPG. N i n e t e e n m i l e s per g a l l o n ! ! ! . _______ . |___|__\_== eheite@dmv.com............Baby (1969 IIA 88") . | _ | | --] Ned Heite.................Hops is a vegetable . =(O)-----(O)= Camden, DE 19934 ............Mud is beautiful Wool Camp in Iceland: http://www.dmv.com/~iceland------------ Recent research: http://home.dmv.com/~eheite/index.html ----- ------------------------------[ <- Message 2 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971012 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: CIrvin1258@aol.com Date: Sat, 11 Oct 1997 08:32:28 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: "Emergency" I missed the beginning of this one, so I have no idea whatsoever, what it was originally about, BUT... for any future sightseers, the station where "Emergency" (BTW, was also called "Emergency One" in syndacation, too) was filmed, is located on 223rd Street, in Carson, Ca., between Alameda Ave., and Wilmington Ave., just a few doors down from Cormier Chevrolet (whos sign can be seen from the 405 freeway). While it hasn't changed a bit since the series, the Shell refinery that used to be across the street, has long since been torn down. In fact, it was in the process of being dismantled when the series was in its last few years. ...Not that anybody here was interested. Charles ------------------------------[ <- Message 3 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971012 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sat, 11 Oct 1997 17:09:42 +0200 From: lopezba@atnet.at Subject: Re ARO and Ural dear all, there was some talk about ARO's and Urals on the list the other day (just catching up after a very busy week). Being a little closer to these vehicles than most of you, I can say with some confidence that I would stay away from both unless you want endless trouble. The ARO is Romanian and enjoys a very bad reputation both for its engineering and its quality control. One Austrian importer went belly up very soon due to warranty problems and the bad name the cars got from this. A month ago in Romania I saw a few ARO's, and even the newer ones seemed to spend more time on the side of the road, with the hood open or on blocks, than on the road. At our 4WD meetings here we get to see a lot of strange beasts, including GAZ and UAZ, but very few ARO's. Getting an ARO is not considered a wise move. The Russian Lada Niva, on the other hand, has quite a reputation and is a fairly popular car - it just doesn't look cool, otherwise it would probably be a bestseller over here. If I remember correctly the ARO importers were going to buy the empty shells and then use US made engines and gearboxes. The Ural bike is a bad copy of an old BMW and suffers from extremely bad quality control. There was some comment in a magazine lately where prospective buyers were advised to buy three or four, take them apart and then rebuild one bike with parts taken from the others that happen to fit together. It seems the manufacturing tolerances are excessive even in the export models, and the home market models are even worse. Also, there is little or no quality control during assembly. But then, come to think of it, would we be driving Series vehicles if we weren't looking for trouble? Maybe the ARO and Ural is the Series IIA of the late Nineties (without the character)? Regards Peter Hirsch Vienna, Austria Series One 107in Station Wagon (in bits and pieces) ------------------------------[ <- Message 4 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971012 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Subject: Re: Distributor Self Destruct/Engine Noise HELP!! Date: Sat, 11 Oct 97 10:56:48 -0500 From: Anthony Sanna <asanna@sacofoods.com> >My engine has just chewed up the third distributor that I know of. Dan - You're a lucky man. This problem actually has a cheap (not counting a new distributor, if you need one) solution. I spent a week picking eggs on an Iowa chicken ranch one time trying to solve this mystery. The counter weights actually cut my distributor in half leaving a trail of parts bouncing down Highway 14 and leaving me with just enough forward momentum to coast to a stop in this farmer's front lawn. But hey... that's another story. The culprit, as it turned out, was a worn distributor coupling - a two-bit part - a quarter-sized slotted metal disc that sits between the cam/distributor drive shaft and the base of the distributor. It's been a while, but as I remember it, it has a female horizontal slot that accepts the spline on the bottom of the distributor and a male spline running at 90 degrees that fits into the cam/distributor drive shaft. Wear in these splines sets up destructive vibrations that literally tears the dist apart. In my case, breaking the weights loose to drag around the inside of the dist body and whip-saw it in half. Check it out. Dollars to donuts, it'll fix the problem. Tony Anthony R. Sanna SACO Foods, Inc. 6120 University Avenue Middleton, Wisconsin 53562 USA asanna@sacofoods.com 1-800-373-7226 (608) 238-9101 ------------------------------[ <- Message 5 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971012 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sat, 11 Oct 1997 13:29:42 -0500 From: Wesley Harris <wharris@midmon.com> Subject: windscreen sealer Does anyone out there know the proprietary name of the stuff used to seal the windscreen glass/frame junction? I have all my bits back from the galvie shop (finally) and want to put it back together correctly... Incidentally, I highly recommend to anyone who is in the midst of a frameover to have this done - $100 to have all the steel cleaned (stripped of paint in most cases), acid dipped and galvanized. It all looks like new. Cheers, Wes Harris '64 88 SW (starting to look like a truck again) ------------------------------[ <- Message 6 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971012 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sat, 11 Oct 1997 10:37:25 -0700 From: Jeremy Bartlett <bartlett@slip.net> Subject: Re: Mantec intake install cascardo@ix.netcom.com wrote: > 1) How far down do you hack saw the trumpet on the air filter housings. I remember about 1/4" .. do it in stages until you get a good fit. > 2) Do you wedge the Pre cleaner (the top canister) into the tube or do > you attach with screws (there are no predrilled holes in the tube to > accept the top canister). Screw it in. cheers, Jeremy ------------------------------[ <- Message 7 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971012 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Sat, 11 Oct 1997 17:39:04 -0400
Subject: Re: windscreen sealer
Wes - it's made by 3M and it's called (strangely enough) windshield tape.
Auto Palace and all of the rest carry it - you need the 1/8" diameter
stuff.
Alan
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]From: NADdMD@aol.com Date: Sat, 11 Oct 1997 20:03:34 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: windscreen sealer In a message dated 97-10-11 17:47:16 EDT, you write: << Wes - it's made by 3M and it's called (strangely enough) windshield tape. Auto Palace and all of the rest carry it - you need the 1/8" diameter stuff. >> One word of warning: when you run the strip, and place the glass down, make sure the screw holes in the backing bracket can line up with those in the windscreen. If they don't but they're close you can GENTLY push the glass to flatten the tape. If it's not close, lift off the glass and flatten it a bit with a long piece of flat metal. If you push too hard on the glass you'll libel to need new glass. Nate ------------------------------[ <- Message 9 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971012 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sat, 11 Oct 1997 20:10:54 -0400 From: The Bickertons <Bickerton@compuserve.com> Subject: Jag V12's, tyres, and Haynes manuals Hi all again When I get my contributions on the list, they come out double line spaced= =2E It's Compuserve, OK, not my fault! I'll keep hitting Enter! In the Dec 96 edition of LandRover World, there is a Jaguar V12 conversio= n detailed. I have seen it at Billing (UK LandRover show) and it seemed to fit quite easily, when the grille panel is moved forward to the Stage 1/90/110/Defender position= =2E It can be done!! If you are confused about tyre colours, shapes and sizes, they are all round and black, but for size info, see Apr 96 edition of LRW. It's all explained, althoug= h it is a little obscure at times! Does anyone else find that the Haynes manual, although fine for anything basic, as soon as things get technical, you can get helpful comments like: Engine Removal =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D 1. Open bonnet 2. Remove engine 3. Replace bonnet Although a little extreme, it illustrates the point! Just to start a new thread, does anyone else think that Freelander will b= e able to cut it offroad? I think that, assuming it all works and keeps working, the gadgets they have put on it will help compensate the Subaru-like axle articulation. Unfortunately I don't think= we'll see cut-up and cut-down versions in trials for a long time! Thanks! John Bickerton, Turnditch, Derbyshire, UK ------------------------------[ <- Message 10 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971012 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Tom Dixon" <tomd@clear.net.nz> Subject: Swap meet Date: Sun, 12 Oct 1997 13:04:28 +1300 Hello and greetings from a cold and wet Upper Hutt (New Zealand). Just returned from the local "Landrovers owners club" yearly swap meet. Thought I would let you all know what happens at one of our "meets". The clubs name is "Abbott Creek Landrovers club" it was originally formed in "Featherston" which is a rural town over the hill ( read as bloody big mountains for those that live on the flat) from where I live, it now draws a lot of it members from the Hutt valley. When we arrived there were not a great deal of people about... but numbers are growing each year. The various amounts of parts that were on show ranged from junk to maybe better junk and as for the prices they were too high. One chap was selling a series 1 that had been rebuilt in 1990 imho it was not a good job but had not been registered or had a warrant of fitness since 1990. The price $3500.00 nzd. I thought that was steep. Then there were the rovers to look at wow that was the best part they were all present and some fine examples as well. Really gives me a shot of motivation to get into the garage and work on mine. One series 1 was just so close to perfect that had I had my camera I would have posted a picture of it here. Then of course catching up with people one has not seen for a number of years is a bonus. Cheers.... Tom Dixon ZL2UPG 79 series 3 lwb (in many pieces) tomd@clear.net.nz ------------------------------[ <- Message 11 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971012 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sat, 11 Oct 1997 20:26:28 From: James Wolf <J.Wolf@worldnet.att.net> Subject: Ref; silicone brake fluid I did this course as I said about 18 months ago. Several persons on the list gave differing thoughts on this fluid. I then got into contact with WhitePost Restorations in White Post, VA. The owner sent me several reprints from several auto mags. and I believe either the Jag. or Triumph club publication. They really went into testing this fluid. The're conclusions were to not use it. I don't have a copy of Hennings Motor News to hand right at this moment but this is where I found the White post phone # and address. Also check the list archives. Jim Wolf 1966 109 sIIa sw "Vicky" ------------------------------[ <- Message 12 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971012 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sat, 11 Oct 1997 20:45:05 From: James Wolf <J.Wolf@worldnet.att.net> Subject: sticky steering wheel. Someone at another time had the idea of going to a bike shop and getting handle bar wrapping. Wrap the sticky wheel and forget it. Jim Wolf ------------------------------[ <- Message 13 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971012 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sat, 11 Oct 1997 21:19:21 -0400 (EDT) From: pscales@blvl.igs.net (P.S.) Subject: Re: Haynes manuals >Does anyone else find that the Haynes manual... Some really funny stuff, too. Ha-ha-ha. Like "remove the bolts from where the wing attaches to the scuttle", but no definition of what a scuttle is. Or the critical part in a repair operation is "not shown." AAAGH! Peter 1959 Series II diesel ------------------------------[ <- Message 14 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971012 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sat, 11 Oct 1997 19:17:22 -0700 From: Daniel Oppenheim <daniel5@best.com> Subject: Parts for sale I'm garage cleaning and have the following items for sale: Tyres BF Goodrich radial All-Terrain, 235-85-16, with about 22K miles. Set of 5; $40 each. You pay shipping or pick-up in San Francisco (UPS can deliver for about $12 per tire) Spare tyre mounts: Rear door (Items ALR 2377, 333446,MRC 1210, and 333349, plus nuts and bolts) Rovers North price is $127, Britpac price is $158. My asking price is $95.00 Interior Bulkhead Tyre Mount(Items 302933,302934,330208, plus nuts and bolts) RN price is $202, Britpac price is $237. My asking price is $175 Roof top tent Exactly like the one I have (and Tom W) Available for $795, plus shipping. This is the last one in the US, made by Car-Top-Tent. I just found it recently, and it will probably sell soon. cheers, Daniel ------------------------------[ <- Message 15 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971012 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sat, 11 Oct 1997 21:13:35 -0600 From: Alan Boyer <aboyer@intermountain.com> Subject: unsubscribe unsubscribe ------------------------------[ <- Message 16 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971012 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
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