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From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com Date: Fri, 10 Oct 1997 07:56:11 -0400 Subject: Good substitute part - Air cleaner to carburettor hose Recently I decided the rusty-hole-filled tube from my air cleaner to the carb swan had to go - but I wasn't paying original prices. OK, so call me cheap - I'll admit it. A fair bit of scouting around found me a perfect replacement. It's an Mighty-Flow air-intake flexible hose made my Motormite, of Colmar, PA, and sold by PartsAmerica houses in the US. Pep Boys, Canadian Tire and the like would likely also have it or a similar bit. Part # is 96058 - 2-19/32" diameter by 17" long. Thee nice bit about this part is that it comes with pre-attached hose clamps and simply slips and locks into place with no cutting or fitting. The severely tradition-bound could, if they wished, cut off the plastic clamps and put on the proper hose clamps, but I didn't see the need. In construction, it's simply a tough plastic tube, spiral-reinforced with a steel band. Clloks good and fits fine, though nowhere near as heavy as the original LR part. Alan/Mr. Churchill ------------------------------[ <- Message 2 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971011 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org Date: Fri, 10 Oct 97 08:23:14 EST Subject: Re: Distributor Self Destruct/Engine Noise HELP!! And so the saga continues. This one is bugging me and costing me money. My engine has just chewed up the third distributor that I know of. One with the PO and two since I've owned it. The latest failure appears to have been caused by a rivet that held the contact piece on the top of the rotor. I found the rivet in the bottom of the distributor. On the way down it appears to have knocked the advance weights loose causing the weights to start grinding around on the inside of the distributor housing. I've got it going again but I still have a problem as follows. >When this engine (2.25 petrol) is running it sounds like a deisel or like >it needs the valve adjusted. no, it doesn't. It sounds like and engiune that is sick and has some kind of permanent damage inside. It doesn'tsound like valve noise AT ALL. > I found a >vibration in the distributor that matches the noise. ... as I turned the engine >over by hand...I've noticed that the rotor jumps or snaps forward in four >places remove the engine side covers. (fuel pump and oil filler neck). remove the right side wing. look through the covers at the cam to see if you can find anything wrong. have a helper turn it over while you watch the cam. My guess is that you will need to replace lots of bits to fix this. you might be better off getting a motor out of a parts truck that doesn't have lots of miles on it. Stop trying to speculate what the problem is. Either fix it, or replace the engine, or just live with it. Sounds liek ti could get expensive though with all those distributors. > The noise that this engine makes is worse at idle and generally quiets down or >disappears at high revs. as do most noises, its going too fast for you to hear it. later DaveB ------------------------------[ <- Message 3 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971011 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: NADdMD@aol.com Date: Fri, 10 Oct 1997 08:36:17 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: clutch question In a message dated 97-10-10 06:51:26 EDT, you write: << A spacer was used under the slave cylinder in LR's factory equipped with 9 1/2 inch clutches. Most North American IIAs and IIIs came with the larger clutch. The same thing is accomplished by adjusting the push rod. >> I noted this difference in the SII and SIIa slave cylinder set up (I actually have a parts late IIa which I practiced on first). When I asked Charlie at RN, his opinion was the spacer was unnecessary for the SII clutch and that the pushrod could be adjusted to the correct height without it. His opinion: Leave the spacer out and adjust the pushrod to the factory spec. Nate ------------------------------[ <- Message 4 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971011 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org Date: Fri, 10 Oct 97 08:43:00 EST Subject: Re[2]: clutch question I'm looking for a decent rear tub for my 88, willing to spend about 100-150 dollars for a striaght one, without lots of corrosion. MD/DC/VA/PA/WV preferred. thanks DaveB dbobeck@ushmm.org ------------------------------[ <- Message 5 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971011 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Cooper, Paul" <P.Cooper@shu.ac.uk> Date: Fri, 10 Oct 1997 13:59:32 +0100 Subscribe P.Cooper@shu.ac.uk Paul Cooper Admin Computing Ext.4560 ------------------------------[ <- Message 6 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971011 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 10 Oct 1997 15:30:40 +0100 From: Bernd Jonas <Bernd.Jonas@munich.netsurf.de> Subject: IIa wonīt run...HELP!!! Hi Greg! I had a similar problem on holiday in Croatia. First you have too be sure there is NO air in your fuelsys. Now it might be running. If not it should be a fuelpump or fuelinjector problem. In my case it was the low-pressure-part of the CAV. A little coverplate was not absolutely airproof (iīm not very well in english) -->Air in the fuelsys-->motor was not running. Hope itīll help you! Bye Bernd ------------------------------[ <- Message 7 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971011 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 10 Oct 1997 07:13:58 -0700 From: "Christopher H. Dow" <dow@thelen.org> Subject: Re: IIa won't run...HELP!!! Brian Cramer wrote: > My newly purchased IIa starts and idles fine, but after driving along a > mile, or two the engine starts missing and eventually dies. It won't > restart right away. It cranks, but doesn't fire up. After sitting for a > little while, it starts, and drives only to miss and stall again. Any ideas? Coil, Distributor cap, and fuel have all been mentioned, and my experience would lead me to those three conclusions. The coil is cheap, and the distributor cap is easy to check, so try them first. Then, if that doesn't work, look at the fuel system (just simple sorting by ease-of-test, and cost). > BTW, how does the CHARGE light operate? Mine glows bright at idle, and dims > at speed, but never seems to go out completely. Is this correct, or do I > have a charging problem? The charging lamp works like this. Power comes out of the ignition switch, and goes to the lamp. From there, a wire goes to a connection on the charging system (generator/alternator). When the ignition key is turned on, but the car is not running, there is 12V on one side of the lamp, and 0V from the charging system, so the electricity "falls" through the lamp and illuminates it. When the car is running, there should be 12V from the charging system and 12V from the ignition system, so there is nowhere for the electricity to "fall", and the lamp does not come on. A dim charging lamp means you're not generating 12V, and a bright charging lamp means you're closer to 0V. So, there is much data to support the conclusion that you have a charging problem. Now, what do you do about it? You can get a rebuilt or new generator, or you can get a Delco alternator (this requires a +VE to -VE conversion). I did the latter, and am quite happy. However, that was in the process of completely rewiring my '65 IIA, so you may decide differently. Note that a Delco alternator costs around $100 (that's actually on the high side), and you can mount it (and do the ground coversion) in an afternoon using anything from a stack of washers to custom-fabricated brackets for the physical mounting. I have a web page describing the process at http://www.thelen.org/IIAAlternator.html Good Luck. C ------------------------------[ <- Message 8 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971011 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: DONOHUEPE@aol.com Date: Fri, 10 Oct 1997 10:21:02 -0400 (EDT) Subject: LRO Digest Blues Hello Major: Today's LRO digest arrived as a totally garbled WINMAIL.DAT file instead of the usual ASCII text file. This happened once last month; none of my software will decrypt this stuff. Am I being picked on in particluar or is this an AOL peculiarity? Paul Donohue donohuepe@aol.com ------------------------------[ <- Message 9 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971011 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 10 Oct 1997 16:29:26 From: Paul Wakefield <pwakefie@mail.esrin.esa.it> Subject: re: Harness burnouts and batteries Hi All, Well, I still only have a backlog of 1 months mails to read, but the thread on battery disconnection reminded me of a mechanic I once knew and an incident I saw. Nate Wrote: >Most backyard mechanics know if there's an electrical fire, the first thing >to do (if possible) is DISCONNECT THE BATTERY! Worry about where it's >coming from later The guy was working on a Renault (4 I think) when the harness fused and the aforementioned smoke billowed from the dashboard. His only weapon close at hand to solve the disaster (on a customers car) was a large hammer. In a split second of reasoning, he though he could knock off the battery post, as a replacement battery would be cheaper than a replacement car. Swing, connects with post, swing, connects with huge glass radiator overflow bottle ! (pause for expolosion of antifreeze, water and glass) swing, removes post. Still, new battery & 1 overflow bottle later I think he learnt his lesson ! Paul. ------------------------------[ <- Message 10 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971011 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 10 Oct 1997 10:33:51 -0400 (EDT) From: "Dan Prasada-Rao (301)757-1479 X26" <prasadaraodp.nimitz@NAVAIR.NAVY.MIL> Subject: Distributor Self-Destruct/Engine Noise >From: CIrvin1258@aol.com >Date: Fri, 10 Oct 1997 05:47:47 -0400 (EDT) >Subject: Re: Distributor Self Destruct/Engine Noise HELP!! Dan, .....snip... >>My friend, you have a loose crank pulley! It COULD be the timing gear on >the camshaft, but it's most likely the crank pulley. This, in turn, lets >the timing gear on the crankshaft move back and forth, and eventually, >side to side, causing the keyway on the crankshaft itself, to wear out. >This, is why you don't have the "The valves are WAY out of adjustment - >but I just did it!" sound, all the time, and, it's also why the dizzys' >are committing suicide. >Now, if the crank pulley is nice and tight, take it off, (check also, for >a new locktab here) and check the timing gear on the crank: if the keyway >is worn and the locktab is new, then the PO probably figured it out, and >didn't want to spend money on a new crankshaft, and so, he sold the truck >for whatever he could get. >Hate to be the bringer of expensive news, but - been there, done that. >Charles >P.S. If you've been re-adjusting the valves, you may also want to take a >look at the pushrods: a few of them could have been bent, since the timing >isn't consistant. >>Charles, Thanks for the suggestion. I hadn't even considered that. Now that you mention it, there is about 10-15 deg of play when I move the fan back and forth before I feel the drag of the engine moving. Ill be checking it this weekend. Dan ------------------------------[ <- Message 11 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971011 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: AKBLACKLEY@aol.com Date: Fri, 10 Oct 1997 10:58:58 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Beer (not LR related, much) Alan: Any defamatory statements made by me always automatically exclude the Listers, who, by virtue of owning and maintaining the worlds greatest 4X4, have already proved their good taste in all things, including beer. If the cost of said maintainence forces them to drink cheap fizzy piss water, well one can only salute their sacrifice and acknowledge that with a lift o'the glass of something warm and dark. :>) Cheers, and may your hops stay fresh and your brew never go flat. Andy Blackley ------------------------------[ <- Message 12 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971011 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: ARTuro500@aol.com Date: Fri, 10 Oct 1997 10:59:37 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: RE: Sticky Steering Wheel Re: David Hope's sticky steering wheel problem. I had similar problems w my IIA and solved it thusly. Bicycle shops sell a wrapping for handle bars (often seen on touring bikes). This material is tough and nonadhesive. It stretches a bit as you apply it. Purchase of two kits is plenty to do a steering wheel. I found application a little awkward around the steering wheel metal spokes, but that was the only difficulty. Three years later, it still looks and feels good. Paul Driscoll 65 IIA 88 HT White Sulphur Springs, MT ------------------------------[ <- Message 13 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971011 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: NADdMD@aol.com Date: Fri, 10 Oct 1997 11:06:04 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: Beer (not LR related, much) In a message dated 97-10-10 11:01:25 EDT, you write: << and may your hops stay fresh and your brew never go flat. >> or get contaminated with a wild yeastie! Nate ------------------------------[ <- Message 14 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971011 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: AKBLACKLEY@aol.com Date: Fri, 10 Oct 1997 11:09:25 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Parts I agree with Mark regarding Rovers North. When I started my Land Rover fever they were very helpful, and almost always have the correct part in stock. But they are pricey. I have not used Europoarts, but go directly to the UK. As I ve posted before I have found Famous Four in Louth, Lincs. UK to be very helpful, reasonably priced (doggone cheap in many instances) and they ship by UPS. Typically I send them an order inquiry by email, they send me a quote back about 24 hrs. later, I then confirm by email or telephone and the stuff arrives at my door (in NE Ohio) in about a week or less. One less middleman to deal with. Others have reported similar success with this and other companies that advetise in LROI. Cheers. Andy Blackley ------------------------------[ <- Message 15 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971011 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 10 Oct 1997 10:46:25 -0400 (EDT) From: "Dan Prasada-Rao (301)757-1479 X26" <prasadaraodp.nimitz@NAVAIR.NAVY.MIL> Subject: Distributor Self Destruct/Engine Noise HELP!! >Date: Thu, 09 Oct 1997 16:22:00 -0700 >From: Jeremy Bartlett <bartlett@slip.net> >Subject: Re: Distributor Self Destruct/Engine Noise HELP!! >Well, this isn't particularly specific, but I'd be wondering abouteither >the distibutor gear/shaft assembly (and its associated gearing >on the camshaft). That's what I thought the first time. I checked it and all seemed well except the coupling gear for the dist. which I replaced. >Given the engine noise I wonder if the distributor is actually just >revealing a more fundamental problem in the cam (or engine rotation >generally). >Are the rotor "snaps" erratic or equally spaced/timed? They are equally spaced and occur about 20 deg before the points open. >Did the prior distributors also behave this way? Yes, they did but not as cosistent as it does now. >cheers, >Jeremy I'm thinking about pulling the timing cover and checking things out up there. The dist drive gear, coupling, and cam gear for dist all seem fine. Thanks for the response. Dan ------------------------------[ <- Message 16 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971011 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Andy Phillips <AnPi@serviceteam.co.uk> Subject: RE: Parts Date: Fri, 10 Oct 1997 16:17:35 +0100 Just to say I've found Famous Four to be a trouble free supplier of parts too. > -----Original Message----- > From: AKBLACKLEY@aol.com [SMTP:AKBLACKLEY@aol.com] > Sent: Friday, October 10, 1997 4:09 PM > To: lro@playground.sun.com > Subject: Parts [ truncated by list-digester (was 27 lines)] > to deal with. Others have reported similar success with this and other > companies that advetise in LROI. Cheers. Andy Blackley ------------------------------[ <- Message 17 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971011 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Autoconv@aol.com Date: Fri, 10 Oct 1997 11:47:20 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: splines (reply) Mike When talking about 10 or 24 spline one is generally refering to the diff end of the shaft, it was this I meant. Regards Dave Ashcroft ------------------------------[ <- Message 18 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971011 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 10 Oct 1997 08:52:20 -0700 From: Jeremy Bartlett <bartlett@slip.net> Subject: Re: Beer (not LR related, much) > << and may your hops stay fresh > and your brew never go flat. >> > or get contaminated with a wild yeastie! Unless you like Lambics :) cheers Jeremy ------------------------------[ <- Message 19 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971011 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 10 Oct 1997 08:58:09 -0700 From: Jeremy Bartlett <bartlett@slip.net> Subject: Re: IIa won't run...HELP!!! Christopher H. Dow wrote: > Brian Cramer wrote: > > My newly purchased IIa starts and idles fine, but after driving along a > > mile, or two the engine starts missing and eventually dies. It won't > > restart right away. It cranks, but doesn't fire up. After sitting for a > > little while, it starts, and drives only to miss and stall again. Any ideas? > Coil, Distributor cap, and fuel have all been mentioned, and my > experience would lead me to those three conclusions. The coil is cheap, > and the distributor cap is easy to check, so try them first. Then, if > that doesn't work, look at the fuel system (just simple sorting by > ease-of-test, and cost). Actually I'd look at the fuel system first on the visual side.. especially if you have a see through filter (might even be worth fitting). Air drawn into the fuel system will produce this symptom... sort of a dynamic vapor lock. Check for tight connections all along the fuel delivery route. How long will it idle and what happens if you manually rev it (manipulate the throttle linkage? cheers, Jeremy ------------------------------[ <- Message 20 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971011 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: RoverNut@aol.com Date: Fri, 10 Oct 1997 12:06:30 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: In a message dated 97-10-10 07:02:25 EDT, you write: << << The steering wheel (the old style) on my 64 llA gets sticky when wet and leaves black deposits on my hands. Is there any cure for this? >> >> Get a lace up steering wheel cover. Problem solved. Alex Maiolo 69IIa 89RR 93NAS110 ------------------------------[ <- Message 21 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971011 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 10 Oct 1997 09:15:44 -0700 (PDT) From: gpool@pacific.net (Granville Pool) Subject: Re: Parts AndyB said: [snip] >ve posted before I have found Famous Four in Louth, Lincs. UK to be very >helpful, reasonably priced (doggone cheap in many instances) and they ship by >UPS. Typically I send them an order inquiry by email, they send me a quote [snip] I have not ordered overseas from FamFour but have heard only good things from those here and in the UK who've dealt with them. My experience was a visit to the premises last November. Funky place, pretty much of a repair shop with a big store room and a little showroom. Small outside lot, crammed with projects and breakers. Hard to find, in an old industrial area. Great blokes who are friendly and accommodating. I hunted through the store rooms and shops with one of the fellows for interesting bits. I bought a big set of Raydyot driving lamps and some UK-style D90 back-up lamps at amazing prices. They gave me a couple of old UK reg plates, one old silver on black and one newer black on yellow. Tried to get me interested in buying what had to be the biggest capstan winch ever put on a Land-Rover. Had to weigh more than the engine! Although the stock levels are modest, one great feature of this place is its direct connection with Peter Hobson Land Rover (a few miles away) which will not sell to you directly. I toured PHLR. This was a guided tour and I was not allowed to bring in a camera. Only got to go in at all after a third-degree to make sure I was not some sort of spy or something! Pretty strange. But my god the stock of cool stuff in that place! Had shelves of NOS (new, old stock) obsolete genuine parts and other interesting bits. Several dozen Fairey free-wheeling hubs, brand new (out of production since Superwinch took over Fairey). I'd have bought a couple of sets (through FamFour, of course) but they were--alas--24-spline only. PHLR has a huge shop which apparently does restoration work and rebuilds of wrecked or faulty new LRs (?) Lots going on in there! Lots of new RRs. Out back, some very interesting vehicles. A beautifully restored 101 FC. A very original and complete but unrestored SIIB (?) FC Carmichael Fire Tender. Best of all, two (very derelict) Land Rover 100s (yes, 100s). True prototype stuff as one had a fabricated Defender-style windscreen frame and the other had a Series III type. The one time in my life that I wished I had a spy camera! Cheers, Granny who's in no way connected with Famous Four or Peter Hobson or anyone else ------------------------------[ <- Message 22 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971011 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 10 Oct 1997 12:25:44 -0400 From: "Jeffrey A. Berg" <jberg@hearstnewmedia.com> Subject: FINSUPdate: Repair follies. I guess it's time to come clean. The sordid details are bound to become common knowledge anywhow--at least once the next OVLR rag hits the mailboxes. Besides there are lessons to be learned from all of this so pay attention and learn them well... It's been a rather pricey month of Rover ownership. It all started at British Invasion in Stowe when I decided to "treat" FINSUP to a set of genuine equipment bumper over riders. These were installed (in my parents driveway so I had the use of my 1/2" drill) without a hitch. While I was a bit dirty, I decided to do an oil change for the engine and overdrive and a 90 weight top-off for the rest prior to the Mid-Atlantic Rally. Everything was looking good. That is until I pulled out of the driveway to run an errand--that's when the the horrible hissing sound began to come from the brake tower. Rule #1: Never do nice things for your Rover--it resents them. It's kind of like buying your significant other (assuming Rover ownweship allows you enough time and money for such pursuits) a present to make up for the neglect she's suffered while you're out wrenching (or winching) with the Rover. Doug Main diagnosed (correctly as it turns out) a bad brake servo. Charlie Haigh confirmed it by phone, and I ordered ordered one up. While I had Charlie on the phone I also ordered a set of Lucas Speedlead wires. Many of you know about the embarassment I suffered in Lake Ontario due to poor fitting wires. I got the servo installed without too much trouble (didn't even have to pull the wing) losing only 1 socket (it might still be under the steering box) and a bent cotter pin in the process of trying to reinstall the bent cotter pin. (The socket was knocked off the wing by my elbow while cursing at the bent cotter pin's refusal to slide into place.) Of course losing the cotter pin meant I had to drive 30 minutes to Home Depot for bits before I could seal up the pedal tower. (It being a Sunday, and everything local to the folks save "cotterless" Caldor is closed on Sunday.) I was smart about though. Having driven the distance, I bought several cotter keys and a couple of hitch (clevis) pins that looked like they'd do a better job. Once home, the hitch pin slid into place in about 4 seconds and all was well. I popped the wires in place, put the bonnet back on, and was ready for the upcoming Middy. One exciting adventure on the way to the Middy.*BANG*--a very sharp backfire. FINSUP was running rough and the engine wasn't at full power. I *thought* I knew what caused it--but it seemed so much worse than last time. Pulling over I quickly confirmed my diagnosis. One of the Speedleads had fallen off. The *worse* was caused by a second one being very loose. Having gotten used to the sloppy fit of the old wires, I'd neglected to push the new ones down until they clicked. Thirty seconds later I was back on the road with all four wires firmly seated. (And a mental note to buy a pair of the pliers for pulling and installing these wires.) All went well at the Mid-Atlantic. FINSUP ran well. Wasn't bothered by the water. I bought a set of "rock sliders" from Stuart Moore (ignoring rule #1) to replace thesill panels that got mangled at the Downeast. Only apparent damage at the end of the weekend was a cracked Hella H4 headlamp (warm light, cold water--leave lights off unless necessary!), something keeping the parking brake from working (mud?), and a clogged radiator. I washed much of the gunk out, but she still ran warm on the way home. What she needed was a good pressure wash. Monday I was back at the folks house. Plan was to pressure wash the underside, clean out the K&N filters, engine bay and dismantle and clean the brakes and tranny brake. I took care of the radiator, engine bay and filters first. While washing the underside I noticed something kind of disturbing--one of the side steps which had been previously bent in Maine was not pushed into the side of the fuel tank. The two pieces of the tank bottom had seperated. Hmmm, that could have been bad... Making a mental note to price out a new fuel tank (no sense taking chances!) I continued the washing process. The real fun began when I washed the fuel tank as apparently the only thing keeping it sealed was the layer of mud caked onto it. Gasoline began to pour out of the tank just about the time my father pulled up. Noticing my problem, he offered the following helpful advice: "Gasoline will damage the coating on the driveway you know." Fortunately, I hadn't stopped to fill up on the way, so most of the gas made it into an empty 5 gal. gas can. Rule #2: If you're going to ignore Rule #1 don't ignore the Prime Directive at the same time. The Prime Directive of course being that one should never wash a Land-Rover with a hose--that's what water crossings are for! I ordered a new stainless steel tank from D.A.P. It arrived the next day. Yesterday I decided to "take the day off" (consultantspeak for no client booked) and get FINSUP back on the road. The plan was to install the gas tank in the morning and deal with the brakes after lunch. Step one was to remove the mangled step. Were it not for the distinct smell of gasoline, I might have been tempted to use a sawzall or grinder--a sure solution for a number of my problems, both Rover and otherwise. Instead I removed each of the rusty bolts--including the one imbedded into the side of the tank. Estimated time 10 minutes. Actual time 1.5 hours. (An average of 30 minutes per bolt.) And lets not forget the time I wasted unbolting the filler hose cover behind the seats (remember, I have the tool box there) and bending (destroying) it in an attempt to pull it out around the seat belt retractor bracket which is welded to the roll cage. Of course, this was before I realized that I didn't need to remove *that* cover at all--the one I wanted to remove was under the passenger seat. Call that another hour or so. Finally the old tank was out. Time for a quick lunch, then an evaluation of what bits to buy at the hardware store. Mom had errands in town too, so this wasn't a quick trip. Back at it--convinced that I'm only an hour away from starting her up. I had to mount the old sender unit and output elbow on the new tank. The output pipe *just* fits into the tank--if you use the cork gasket. I had originally planned to use RTV, but you need the thickness of the gasket. As I hadn't ordered a gasket and mine was pretty firm, I "broke the rules" by using an RTV coated cork gasket. As a result, the tiny little 8/32 bolts I'd purchased wouldn't grab with spring washers in place. "Oh well, the RTV is doing the real work." Time to bolt the new tank in place. I'm not sure what was out of square--the new tank or my tank mounts--but it took a bit of persuasion, and an 8' pipe clamp (well I only needed about 3' of it!) to get the thing to line up with the mounting holes. My helper for the parts that required an extra set of eyes or hands was my sainted mother--who isn't even strong enough to turn the release valve on the floor jack. In the end Dad was there too, helping out with questions like "What's holding it up? Couldn't you just..." 12 hours (including lunch and shopping) later the new tank is in place, connected, and only lacking three bolts. (Oh, and I *fixed* a 90 weight leak from the rear hub by tapping the hub cap firmly back into place.) The plan for Saturday is to install the last three bolts (longer!) with spacers at the aft end. There's no way the mounting flange on the tank is going to be flush with the mounting bracket on the frame--it wasn't on the original tank either. As long as I'm still at it, I'm going to remount the output elbow using couple of slightly longer 8/32 bolts--I'm not happy with the shallow bite of the existing ones or the lack of a spring washer. Then I can finally tear apart the tranny brake and maybe clean the regular brakes--unless of course I didn't actually "fix" that leak in the rear hub... ...or maybe I'll just swing by the dealership and put myself into hock for a D90. (NOT!) RoverOn! jeff == Jeffrey A. Berg Macintosh Systems Consultant Phone (212) 649-2322 FAX (212) 957-8524 mailto:jberg@hearstnewmedia.com To report HNMC Macintosh problems use mailto:support@hearstnewmedia.com Remember, the subject line must include NMC MAC "Brief Description" ------------------------------[ <- Message 23 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971011 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 10 Oct 1997 12:27:33 -0400 (EDT) From: Russ Wilson <rwilson@usaor.net> Subject: Re[2]: clutch question >I'm looking for a decent rear tub for my 88, willing to spend about 100-150 >dollars for a striaght one, without lots of corrosion. MD/DC/VA/PA/WV >preferred. >thanks >DaveB >dbobeck@ushmm.org Dave, check in Pete's backyard. I seem to remember a rather straight, nice looking tub just sitting there. Russ Wilson Leslie Bittner Fort Pitt Land Rover Group Pittsburgh's Smallest, Biggest, Best, Worst, and Only Land Rover Club ------------------------------[ <- Message 24 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971011 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Hoot6@aol.com Date: Fri, 10 Oct 1997 13:01:39 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Referral to Northern Virginia sand blaster for axle and prop shaft I would appreciate a referral to a firm which would sandblast a rusty Salisbury axle casing and propeller shaft in the Northern Virginia area. ------------------------------[ <- Message 25 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971011 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: QROVER80@aol.com Date: Fri, 10 Oct 1997 14:08:59 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Cheep 2.25 motors for sale I understand about the prohibition on "commercial" list postings But...... As some of you may know I am in the UK this month. I have an opertunity to aquire a LOT of ex military 2.25 motors. These were mostly good running takeouts from diesel conversions. These are complete motors carb, distributer, starter etc. Alas many of them may turn out to be 24v :-( I have a means of returning them to the US. ( Baltimore ) BUT I would like to get some idea of the size of the demand. How many of you would be interested in a 2.25 cheep? I am thinking that I would be able to sell them in the $350 to $400 range. If I don't get a lot of response I will just buy 5 or 10 and see how it goes. The advantage is that while I am here I will be able to sort through and choose the better ones. Also any body want Salisbury rears ? For about $300 ? Drum to drum :-) Same deal. Rgds Quintin Aspin from the jolly old........ Obviously flying without the benifit of a spell checker. :-( ------------------------------[ <- Message 26 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971011 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 10 Oct 1997 13:20:28 -0700 From: matt nelson <nelsml73@snyoneva.cc.oneonta.edu> Subject: Pioneer Tools, British surplus etc. If anyone here is interested, the sportsman's guide has(still) british "jeep" tools, those like the ones sold in the Roversnorth catalog. only they are cheaper, $20 for the pick and shovel set. I ordered two last week after I saw them in a local surplus store for $20 a piece. They are in like new-good condition, the pick heads are sheffield and date from WW2, the handles were from the 50s and 60s some from the 80s. it looks like they were stored in a war reserve as the ones I saw had never been used, just shelfworn. The "guide" also has british army kit like sleeping bags(including arctic ones.) and those neat WW2 canteens with the wool covers shoulder straps and cork tops, they are only $5 a piece. they have black plastic british 5 gallon water cans too for $10. they used to have Swiss army jerricans for $15, these were the nicest Jerricans I've seen, much nicer than US,british,russian,east german and german WW2 ones i've seen.(I've got quite a collection going...) The swiss ones are of the typical european type with the lever closed small top... If anyone is interested in these things i'd call them up the shovel is h7-23737 pick h7-23738 5 gal water plastic can h7-17676 I dont know the other #s They also have british webbing equiptment and dpm clothes, lots of camping gear tools night vision, hunting shooting supplies etc etc etc I'm not connected with them in any way, I'm just a satisfied customer who has recently picked up some nead cheap accessories. their phone # is1-800-888-3006 they have a website too but its useless Matt Nelson ------------------------------[ <- Message 27 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971011 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org Date: Fri, 10 Oct 97 14:22:15 EST Subject: Re[3]: clutch question >Dave, check in Pete's backyard. I seem to remember a rather straight, nice >looking tub just sitting there. yeah right. it's taken. otherwise wes woulda grabbed it ------------------------------[ <- Message 28 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971011 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 10 Oct 1997 17:59:05 -0300 From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca> Subject: Re: FINSUPdate: Repair follies. Jeffrey A. Berg wrote: > I guess it's time to come clean. The sordid details are bound to become > common knowledge anywhow--at least once the next OVLR rag hits the > mailboxes. Besides there are lessons to be learned from all of this so pay > attention and learn them well... > It's been a rather pricey month of Rover ownership. It all started at > British Invasion in Stowe when I decided to "treat" FINSUP to a set of [ truncated by list-digester (was 157 lines)] > Remember, the subject line must include > NMC MAC "Brief Description" Jeff where did you find the panel bending rocks at Down East? and as for the gas tank problem you should have prebent it on those rocks. Thats why Muddy has a one gallon dent in its tank just to avoid future nasties. Yeah Right you never know where high tension leads. John muddy.....109 2dr ------------------------------[ <- Message 29 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971011 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 10 Oct 1997 18:08:51 -0400 (EDT) From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice) Subject: Roll cages Steve Fullwood wrote: >If anyone knows of pictures on the web of roll cages that would also be >appreciated. Well, it's not the web, but the ARC Yearbook has 20-30 pages on design and what's acceptable to the scruitneers. As most are indeed home built, it tells how to build one and what guages of pipe are acceptable. Cheers *---"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----* | A. P. (Sandy) Grice | | Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd. | | "The oldest Rover-marque club in the Americas" | | 1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730 | | E-mail: rover@pinn.net Phone: 757-622-7054 (Day) | | 757-423-4898 (Evenings) FAX: 757-622-7056 | | | *---1972 Series III 88"-----1996 Discovery SE-7(m)---* ------------------------------[ <- Message 30 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971011 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 10 Oct 1997 18:08:48 -0400 (EDT) From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice) Subject: "Emergency" As long as we're on this thread (I think it was called "Emergency" in original prime-time, and "Squad-51" in re-runs and syndication), there's a fire department in Virginia that has a nice, shiny new Defender. The chief's vehicle for the Highland County volunteer fire department is a '96 NAS spec. If you're ever passing through Monterey on US 250 or 220, check it out. Cheers *---"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----* | A. P. (Sandy) Grice | | Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd. | | "The oldest Rover-marque club in the Americas" | | 1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730 | | E-mail: rover@pinn.net Phone: 757-622-7054 (Day) | | 757-423-4898 (Evenings) FAX: 757-622-7056 | | | *---1972 Series III 88"-----1996 Discovery SE-7(m)---* ------------------------------[ <- Message 31 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971011 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com> Subject: Thanksgiving with no Landy Date: Fri, 10 Oct 1997 15:17:00 -0700 Well, its the beginning of the Thanksgiving Long Weekend here in Canada and I was hoping to have The Beast on the road but it looks like it won't happen :-( I was hoping to take the Rover on this weekend's scuba diving trip to Gabriola Island but I guess I'll have to cram 300 lbs. of salty dive gear in the trunk of the 533i. Have a good weekend all & Happy Thanksgiving to all the Canadians on the list! The Yanks celebrate theirs about a month later. Guess that's because their harvest season lasts a little longer farther south. Catch up on all the mail on Tuesday. Paul Quin 1961 Series II 88 (under construction) Victoria, BC Canada ------------------------------[ <- Message 32 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971011 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: ASFCO@worldnet.att.net Subject: engine guard Date: Fri, 10 Oct 1997 23:40:46 +0000 Anybody on the list have first hand experience with an engine pre-luber called Engine Guard?? looks like a good idea see http://www.engineguard.com Rgds Steve Bradke 96 Discovery WA2GMC 72 S lll 88 (For Sale) 68 S lla 88 ------------------------------[ <- Message 33 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971011 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: cascardo@ix.netcom.com Date: Fri, 10 Oct 1997 20:10:32 -0400 Subject: Mantec intake install Can someone out there post/repost pointers on installing the Mantec air intake on a NAS d90. Couple of questions I see looking at the thing: 1) How far down do you hack saw the trumpet on the air filter housings. 2) Do you wedge the Pre cleaner (the top canister) into the tube or do you attach with screws (there are no predrilled holes in the tube to accept the top canister). Thanks. Lucas. d90 sw ------------------------------[ <- Message 34 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971011 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 10 Oct 1997 19:18:10 -0500 (EST) From: David Scheidt <david@math.earlham.edu> Subject: Re: FINSUPdate: Repair follies. On Fri, 10 Oct 1997, Jeffrey A. Berg wrote: > It's been a rather pricey month of Rover ownership. It all started at You too? > Rule #1: Never do nice things for your Rover--it resents them. It's kind of > like buying your significant other (assuming Rover ownweship allows you > enough time and money for such pursuits) a present to make up for the > neglect she's suffered while you're out wrenching (or winching) with the > Rover. > output pipe *just* fits into the tank--if you use the cork gasket. I had > originally planned to use RTV, but you need the thickness of the gasket. As [ truncated by list-digester (was 13 lines)] > I'd purchased wouldn't grab with spring washers in place. "Oh well, the RTV > is doing the real work." RTV disolves in gasoline. this may be bad. David Scheidt -------- David_Scheidt@math.earlham.edu yip yip yip yap yap yak yap yip *BANG* -- no terrier ------------------------------[ <- Message 35 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971011 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 10 Oct 1997 20:17:55 -0400 From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com> Subject: Axle Ratios (was:Used Winch wanted) > I also need some help to figure out what ratio the diff's are in my > 88 > axles. It is my understanding that two differant diff's where used. All series LRs other than extremely early SIs and Stage Ones had 4.7 axles from the factory. (Stage One used 3.54). Rover car ring and pinion with 4.3, 3.9 or 3.54 ratio are a straight swap into Rover axles. To check axle ratio: Jack up one front wheel while in 2wd (with FWH engaged). Or jack up one rear wheel while in 2wd and neutral with parking brake off and front wheels blocked. Mark prop shaft. Turn wheel two revolutions while counting prop shaft revolutions. Number of prop shaft revolutions equals axle ratio. The two turns of the wheel are needed because the other wheel is not turning, and the differential is averaging the rotation. Regards, David Cockey ------------------------------[ <- Message 36 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971011 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 10 Oct 1997 20:25:13 -0400 From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com> Subject: Re: Brake fluid redux > If water > is somehow finding its way in (with silicone), then you don't have a > braking > system that is operational. The other way water could get in is through condensation. Water can condense out of the air in the resevoir and sink to the bottom of the resevoir. Not much in a single day, but over several years it could be enough to cause trouble. A modern resevoir with a rubber cover over the fluid largely eliminates this problem. Regards, David Cockey ------------------------------[ <- Message 37 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971011 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 10 Oct 1997 20:35:44 -0400 From: Brian Cramer <defender@uscom.com> Subject: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Re:_IIa_won=B4t_run...HELP!!!?= Thanks for your help!! At 03:30 PM 10/10/97 +0100, you wrote: >Hi Greg! >I had a similar problem on holiday in Croatia. >First you have too be sure there is NO air in your fuelsys. >Now it might be running. If not it should be a fuelpump or fuelinjector >problem. In my case it was the low-pressure-part of the CAV. A little >coverplate was not absolutely airproof (i=B4m not very well in english) [ truncated by list-digester (was 15 lines)] >Bye >Bernd ------------------------------[ <- Message 38 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971011 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 10 Oct 1997 16:46:46 -0700 From: Todd_Wilson@ccmail.columbia.com (Todd Wilson) Subject: Diesel Woes..... I could use some help trouble shooting a problem with my truck. It's a 1967 109 sw and it has a 2.5 liter turbo diesel. It is making an unnerving knock that increases with engine speed. At idle it puts out a little smoke but if I rev the engine, It billows lightish smoke. A rover mechanic in the UK suggested an injector stuck open. Slacken the feed line and the injector that doesn't change how the engine runs is the culprit. I have one spare new injector. after loosening the feed lines one at a time, it was the rear most injector that had the least affect on running. I swapped it out noting that the little wire tip thing was about the same lengh on the injector coming out as the new one i was planning to install. I proceeded with the swap and started the truck. No difference. thoughts, comments yours tew ------------------------------[ <- Message 39 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971011 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 10 Oct 1997 22:03:53 -0300 From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca> Subject: Re: Diesel Woes..... Todd Wilson wrote: > I could use some help trouble shooting a problem with my truck. > It's a 1967 109 sw and it has a 2.5 liter turbo diesel. It is making > an unnerving knock that increases with engine speed. At idle it puts > out a little smoke but if I rev the engine, It billows lightish smoke. [ truncated by list-digester (was 24 lines)] > yours > tew Sounds like your timing has changed check the condition of the belt( not the fan belt) best of luck John ------------------------------[ <- Message 40 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971011 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Solihull@aol.com Date: Fri, 10 Oct 1997 21:47:49 -0400 (EDT) Subject: NAS D110 FS in Metro Atlanta I saw this in the Atlanta Constitution this week: 1993 Defender 110, 49k miles, asking $33,900. I called him and he said it came out of Texas. He owns a D90, but is in the car business and just wants to move the 110. I haven't seen it, but the price seems a little low for the limited edition 110s. I usually see them go for closer to $40K. I thought I'd share this with the list. I'd be available to go check it out. The number is (770)935-5774. If you call, please tell him I told you about it. I have no interest in this truck, and haven't seen it. Cheers!! John Dillingham near Canton, GA KF4NAS LROA #1095 73 s3 swb 25902676b DD "Pansy" 72 s3 swb 25900502a rusted, in suspended animation Looking for a P5 project, well, OK, or a P6 or another SD1 Vintage Rover Service, since 1994, where we say: Land Rovers for Agriculture! Land Rovers for Industry! Land Rovers for Recreation! Land Rovers forever!! D.V. ------------------------------[ <- Message 41 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971011 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 10 Oct 1997 23:11:19 -0600 From: @info2000.net Subject: EURO PARTS Euro Parts is one of the best parts suppliers here in the U.S. Dealing with Euro Parts I have saved alot of money. There is'nt any other parts supplier here in the U.S. that can meet there prices. I have purchased both genuine and aftermarket and both are high quality parts. You can always get through on the phone. (unlike RN) CC ------------------------------[ <- Message 42 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 971011 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
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