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Date: Thu, 09 Oct 1997 08:36:54 -0300
From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: SIIa gearbox in a SIII ?

Ketil Oftedahl wrote:
> reason it has the 1-ton gearbox, which I want to replace with a standard
> box.
> Will it be possible to use a gearbox from a SIIa? Should I keep the SIII
> clutch and bellhousing, or use the Ser IIa parts? The "Haynes LR Ser I,
> II, and III purchase and restoration guide" describes the fitting of a
> SIII box to a SIIa, and states that some shafts and gears from the SIIa

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 18 lines)]
> Any advice and/or opinions ???
> Ketil Oftedahl
In order to use the IIA box you will need the clutch slave cylinder and
the clutch pressure plate from the IIA as well then all should be well.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 09 Oct 1997 08:50:25 -0300
From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Importation

David L Glaser wrote:
> The UAZ was never imported into the US.  A year or 2 ago they were
> trying to bring them but too many modifications were needed.  They might
> import them to South America though.
> About a year ago LRW comparied the UAZ, Jeep, and a Lightweight, I don't

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 33 lines)]
> and ship it back as parts.
> David Glaser
the ARO is made in Romania and may be fitted with Ford stuff any way.
They were also made under licence in Portugal and sold as the Portaro.

------------------------------

Subject: Re: SIIa gearbox in a SIII ?
From: Ketil Kirkerud Elgethun <ketilk@a.sol.no>
Date: 09 Oct 1997 13:54:03 +0200

Ketil Oftedahl <Ketil.Oftedahl@robin.no> writes:

| I have just bought a 1973 Ser III ex-military station wagon. For some
| reason it has the 1-ton gearbox, which I want to replace with a standard
| box.
| Will it be possible to use a gearbox from a SIIa?

Yes, but :

| Should I keep the SIII
| clutch and bellhousing, or use the Ser IIa parts?

Whatever you choose, you _will_ have to modify something -
I think that I'd go for keeping the SIII clutch bits, which means
you'll have to swap the bellhousing from the SIII box to the SIIa box.

| Another possible(?) option seems to be to replace the mainshaft and
| transfer box, and keep the SIII gearbox,

This _is_ possible, but not really viable unless you happen to have
a SIII transferbox lying around (or you can get it very cheaply).

| but I have been told that the
| SIIa box is stronger. (I know it does not have syncro on 1st/2nd gears).

Yes, it is supposed to be stronger. This should not be a problem
for the SIII box, unless you have a non-original engine.

| Any advice and/or opinions ???

If you have a SIIa box handy, use that (if you can live with the
non-syncro 1st/2nd).

Ask around in the "Norsk Land-Rover Klubb" (http://www.land.rover.no/), 
there should be someone out there who can help you.

-- 
---Ketil Kirkerud Elgethun, 1979 109" 21/4 Petrol SW - "Lillebil"

------------------------------

From: Hank_Lapa@signalcorp.com
Date: Thu, 9 Oct 1997 08:51:44 -0400
Subject: Europarts

To be fair, my experience with them has been average or better.  A couple
of times I've had things show up a little late, but I wasn't in a hurry
anyway.  They obviously accept your retail order, and then call the source
and have the item shipped directly to their satellite corporate address --
your house!  Talk about low overhead; they don't even see the part going
by.  I always use the 800 number, and have had calls back from them, even
when I wasn't expecting one, but it does seem like a family operation, and
responsiveness runs hot and cold.  They can even get the fancy stuff from
the "Land Rover Gear" catalog, but the one time I did that (a gift for
someone else), I paid the straight catalog price, ostensibly because the
catalog had been recently superceded.  Anyway, as far as regular parts and
accessories, theirs is the deepest discount I've see in the US.  I will
continue to look there for bargains while also using the more traditional
houses supporting NADA/NAS Series vehicles.

Hank
1960 Long SW (green)
1997 Short SW (also green)

------------------------------

From: AKBLACKLEY@aol.com
Date: Thu, 9 Oct 1997 10:29:06 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Oktoberfest

Franz: What passes for Oktoberfest in the US can occur anytime from August to
November depending only on the convenience of the organizers. And what passes
for beer.... well lets not discuss that. Cheers. Andy

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Thu, 9 Oct 1997 11:02:58 -0400
Subject: Re: Oktoberfest

Andy slanders:

>Franz: What passes for Oktoberfest in the US can occur anytime from August
to
>November depending only on the convenience of the organizers. And what
passes
>for beer.... well lets not discuss that. Cheers. Andy

hey hey hey!.....

Now waitaminute!

Just because your average American wouldn't know good beer from camel snot
doesn't mean you have to slander the rest of us.....8*)

                    aj"Brew your own!'r

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 9 Oct 1997 08:20:19 -0700 (PDT)
From: Matthew James Moore <mjm@unr.edu>
Subject: Re: Importation

> They already have. When I was in Reno for the air races (my how I spent my
> vacation post), there was one for sale there, by a dealer! 

	The Aro is imported by a company somewhere back east (Florida I
believe) and the local dealer here in Reno is Sierra Autosport.  The
dealer there has been selling them for around $13,500.  They have Jeep
2.5L running gear and look to be a well designed vehicle.  

Matt Moore
SerIII 88' Santana

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 09 Oct 1997 12:24:56 -0300
From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Oktoberfest

Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com wrote:
> Andy slanders:
> >Franz: What passes for Oktoberfest in the US can occur anytime from August
> to
> >November depending only on the convenience of the organizers. And what
> passes
> >for beer.... well lets not discuss that. Cheers. Andy

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 17 lines)]
> doesn't mean you have to slander the rest of us.....8*)
>                     aj"Brew your own!'r
I think I tried some of that camel snot beer last time I was in the
States....     john

------------------------------

From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Subject: RE: do you remember...LR
Date: Thu, 9 Oct 1997 08:45:17 -0700

I thought that it was called 'Emergency'...

Paul.

>-----Original Message-----
>From:	ASFCO@worldnet.att.net [SMTP:ASFCO@worldnet.att.net]
>I remember the firehouse rescue show I think it was called Rescue51.  One
>episode the firemen were out back of the fire station cleaning up and one of
>the rescue guys ( the young one) pulls in driving a limestone lla.  
>>Does anyone remember an old Adam 12 or that Firehouse rescue show (both
>Rgds
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 11 lines)]
>Rgds
>Steve Bradke       96 Discovery

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 09 Oct 1997 08:59:53 -0700
From: Michael Carradine <carradine@unimog.net>
Subject: Re: Importation

At 08:20 AM 10/9/97 -0700, Matthew James Moore wrote:
:
:> They already have. When I was in Reno for the air races (my how I spent my
:> vacation post), there was one for sale there, by a dealer! 
:	The Aro is imported by a company somewhere back east (Florida I
:believe) and the local dealer here in Reno is Sierra Autosport.  The
:dealer there has been selling them for around $13,500.  They have Jeep
:2.5L running gear and look to be a well designed vehicle.  

 If Russian designed Rumanian Aro's can be imported into this
 country and pass DOT and EPA reg's, then how come Land Rover
 finds it not possible to bring in Defender 110 or full NA spec
 90's (not the 2500 substandard versions brought over in this
 last batch) ??

-Michael

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 9 Oct 1997 12:02:09 -0400
From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Subject: Spark arrestors

With all the dry weather we're having these days, thoughts of forest fire 
prevention have been running through my head whilst rebushing some 
springs ( Oh , and my neighbor came over to tell me a story of his car 
catching fire in Tennessee). Other than those obnoxious Supertrapp 
mufflers, are there any field expedient, handy dandy alternatives that 
would work, or is the use of a spark arrestor unnecessary? Not for the 
Diesel, of course.

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon,
'81 Honda Goldwing 1100 Standard:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 9 Oct 97 16:07:41 UT
From: "David Hope" <davidjhope@classic.msn.com>
Subject: Sticky Steering Wheel

The steering wheel (the old style) on my 64 llA gets sticky when wet and 
leaves black deposits on my hands.  Is there any cure for this?

David Hope

------------------------------

From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Subject: RE: Spark arrestors
Date: Thu, 9 Oct 1997 09:21:21 -0700

This is a legitimate worry.

I remember riding in the back of a friends topless '69 IIA 88 on warm
summer nights and watching a 20 foot fountain of sparks issue from the
exhaust as he switched from one gas tank to the other.   WHUMP!

Don't think we started any grass fires...

Paul.

>-----Original Message-----
>From:	Adams, Bill [SMTP:badams@usia.gov]
>Sent:	Thursday, October 09, 1997 9:02 AM
>To:	lro@playground.sun.com
>Subject:	Spark arrestors

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 21 lines)]
>Diesel, of course.
>Bill Adams

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 9 Oct 1997 12:27:38 -0400
From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Subject: Re: Sticky Steering Wheel

Paint it.

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon,
'81 Honda Goldwing 1100 Standard:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Thu, 9 Oct 1997 12:21:23 -0400
Subject: Re: Sticky Steering Wheel

Re: Black, sticky steering wheel:

Yes - paint it!

All the coatings on older steering wheels basically is is a paint - on
yours, the enamel's worn away and the Bakelite crud underneath is making
its revolting presence known.

Pull the silly thing off, sand it to clean it up and use a 2-pack epoxy
glue to patch cracks and the like. Once the epoxy is thoroughly dry, then
sand everything again to smooth it up and spray/brush it with a black epoxy
appliance paint or something equally hard. Give it 3 or 4 coats per the
manufacturer's paint instructions and then let it dry thoroughly
(preferably for a few days if possible to cure).

If you can find/get it, i've heard Finnegan's Smoothrite is excellent for
this. Were it not for the 6-week dry time, i'd be tempted to try Hammerite
on this application.

Voila - no more dirty hands and a nice, shiny wheel!

               Al Richer / Mr. Churchill

------------------------------

From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Thu, 9 Oct 1997 12:31:08 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Sticky Steering Wheel

In a message dated 97-10-09 12:11:10 EDT, you write:

<< The steering wheel (the old style) on my 64 llA gets sticky when wet and 
 leaves black deposits on my hands.  Is there any cure for this?
  >>

Wear gloves. ;)
Nate

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Thu, 09 Oct 97 13:25:29 EST
Subject: Re[2]: do you remember...LR

>>Re: Emergency!

>>The firehouse show.....ack.

>>               Al" I wish I could forget this useless trivia...8*)"r

fat chance AL...try this URL:

http://www.hyattsvillevfd.org/emergency/emergfaq.html

or:

http://www.hyattsvillevfd.org/emergency/oldindex.html

couldn't find any pictures of the Rover thuogh. But if you can remember the 
plot of that episode, one of the sites had an episode guide for all five 
seasons.

later
DaveB

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 09 Oct 1997 16:11:15 -0500
From: Steve Fullwood <ansdf@ttacs1.ttu.edu>
Subject: Roll Cages

I have a 1961 Ser II 88" softtop.  What is the best roll cage available.  I
have looked at saftey devices but it gives no protection for the front or
rear it is just a bar with supports.  Can you install a rollcage designed
for a hard top like the ones that go through the front wings on a softtop.
Do you have to cut the top and if you do how would you ever get it off.  I
have no intention of ever getting a hardtop as I live in Texas.  What about
a custom job any suggestions on design.  I have a source for a man who
builds cages for dirt track racers.  If any one knows of pictures on the
web of roll cages that would also be appreciated.

Steve Fullwood
61' ser ii 88"

------------------------------

From: debrown@srp.gov
Date: 09 Oct 97 14:07:41 MST
Subject: Splines

From: <debrown@srp.gov>
       PAB219 (602)236-3544 -  Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486
                                    Pers. E-mail: rovernut@hotmail.com
Matt,

Series IIa are 10 spline axles and diff's. You can very easily verify this
(in the rear) by removing the press-on grease cap and looking at the end of
the axle. (You may have to remove the axle retaining nut, I don't recall off
hand.)

Should be a 10 spline.

Dave Brown

 Never give up your life for          #=======#         _____l___
 anything that death can take away.   |__|__|__\___    //__|__|__\___
                        -anonymous    | _|  |   |_ |}  \__ - ____ - _|}
                                      "(_)""""""(_)"      (_)    (_)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 9 Oct 1997 14:20:48 -0700 (PDT)
From: gpool@pacific.net (Granville Pool)
Subject: Re: Roll Cages

Steve,

>I have a 1961 Ser II 88" softtop.  What is the best roll cage available.  I
>have looked at saftey devices but it gives no protection for the front or
>rear it is just a bar with supports.  Can you install a rollcage designed
>for a hard top like the ones that go through the front wings on a softtop.
>Do you have to cut the top and if you do how would you ever get it off.  I
>have no intention of ever getting a hardtop as I live in Texas.  What about
>a custom job any suggestions on design.  I have a source for a man who
>builds cages for dirt track racers.  If any one knows of pictures on the
>web of roll cages that would also be appreciated.

Safety devices makes a host of different types, styles, and gonzo-levels of
roll bars and cages.  I'm pretty sure that the cages for the NAS D90s and
110s are made by SD.  I've seen all sorts of photos of LRs in the UK that
have soft tops with the bars mated through the tops, with sandwich plates,
just like on the hard tops.

A friend got information on SD cages and decided it was more economical to
have one fabricated locally.  His looks the business and is a full
competition-style cage, frame mounted.  It does not go through the roof,
however.  I plan to have one fabricated by a shop local to me and
sandwich-plate it through the roof (and floor).  Instead of going through
the front wings, however, I intend to mount the outside front hoop to the
exposed corners of the bulkhead.

Your local source sounds like a good bet.

Expect to spend about $800-1,200, depending upon shop and design.  I think
you can see pictures of some of SD's stuff on its website.  I don't have the
URL handy but you can do an Alta Vista Search for "Safety Devices" and not
find too much chaff, surely.

Hope this helps,

Granny

------------------------------

From: "Eyres, Richard RP" <Eyres.Richard.RP@bhp.com.au>
Subject: RE: Sticky Steering Wheel
Date: Fri, 10 Oct 1997 09:23:00 +1000

 ----------
>To: lro@playground.sun.com
>Subject: Sticky Steering Wheel
>Date: Friday, 10 October 1997 02:07
>The steering wheel (the old style) on my 64 llA gets sticky when wet

and
>leaves black deposits on my hands.  Is there any cure for this?
>David Hope
>Date: Friday, 10 October 1997 02:07

You have 5 options. (that I can think of ...)
1/ Live with it
2/ Wear Gloves
3/ Paint it
4/ Fit a steering wheel cover
5/ Fit a new/different wheel

I had this problem with my S3. First off, I lived with it for a while,
and took to wiping the wheel with an old rag before driving. This
reduced the stickiness, but was not a cure. Eventually I removed the
wheel, gave it a good clean and rub down with fine wire wool, then
applied several coats of gloss black spray paint, allowed it to dry for
a week before refitting the wheel. Looked good and stopped the problem
for about 6 months, when the paint started to flake off. I repeated the
process, this time getting about 3 months before problems. (difference
may have been first time was over summer, ie dry, second time was
autumn/winter ie very damp). Its possible that a different type of paint
may work better (marine epoxy maybe?). The problem was finally fixed
when my wife gave me a leather steering wheel cover for my birthday.
This looks pretty good, and as a bonus stops the wheel getting so b****y
hot in the summer sun (also pads the wheel for those of us with delicate
hands!)
Richard

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 09 Oct 1997 18:44:41 -0300
From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Sticky Steering Wheel

Eyres, Richard RP wrote:
>  ----------
> >To: lro@playground.sun.com
> >Subject: Sticky Steering Wheel
> >Date: Friday, 10 October 1997 02:07
> >The steering wheel (the old style) on my 64 llA gets sticky when wet
> and

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 35 lines)]
> hands!)
> Richard
The sticky wheel problem cab also be solved by taking a cold shower!!!

------------------------------

From: "Eyres, Richard RP" <Eyres.Richard.RP@bhp.com.au>
Subject: Re: Roll Cages
Date: Fri, 10 Oct 1997 09:47:00 +1000

 ----------
>From: gpool@pacific.net
>To: lro@playground.sun.com
>Subject: Re: Roll Cages
>Date: Friday, 10 October 1997 07:20
>Steve,
>>I have a 1961 Ser II 88" softtop.  What is the best roll cage

available.  I
>>have looked at saftey devices but it gives no protection for the front
or
>Safety devices makes a host of different types, styles, and
>To: lro@playground.sun.com
gonzo-levels of
>roll bars and cages.  I'm pretty sure that the cages for the NAS D90s
and
>110s are made by SD.  I've seen all sorts of photos of LRs in the UK
that
>...snip...
>Granny

My memory suggest this is true
Richard

------------------------------

From: "Mark Freeman" <mfreeman@murlin.com>
Subject: EuroParts Ltd.
Date: Thu, 9 Oct 1997 17:36:09 -0500

In the past year I Have purchased about $5,000. in parts from EuroParts.  I
have found Mohammed, the owner,  most helpful. His prices are consistently
30% cheaper on genuine LR parts and as much as 50% less on afermarket
parts.  I believe  he is able to be so much cheaper by running his business
with no overhead costs and essentially no inventory costs.  I have had a
few problems with orders, but honestly, they are equally the result of Me,
Land Rover distribution center and Mohammed. 

My experiences may not be typical, I have read some negative comments from
others, and Europarts may not be three right source for you.  Here is my
latest dealing with Europarts:  I am presently rebuilding a wrecked
Discovery and this week I ordered parts  at 4pm and had them to me by Fed
Ex by 11am the next day.    I would suggest that you call and talk to
Mohammed and tell him of your concerns and if you are satisfied with his
response you might try him on you next non-critical order.  If rock-solid
customer service is critical to you, above price, then the Rover's North
people  are the ones for you.  I think they set the high-water mark for
service and friendly technical help.  If nothing else, I think Europarts
may help moderate other parts vendors penchant for higher prices.

DISCLAIMER:  I'm just a confirmed Land Rover Enthusiast, not affiliated
with Europarts or Rover's North.

Mark Freeman
Sedalia, Missouri  USA
1974 88 petrol
1975 109 hybrid
1997 Discovery

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 09 Oct 1997 15:15:40 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Dan Prasada-Rao (301)757-1479 X26" <prasadaraodp.nimitz@NAVAIR.NAVY.MIL>
Subject: Distributor Self Destruct/Engine Noise HELP!!

And so the saga continues.
This one is bugging me and costing me money.
  
My engine has just chewed up the third distributor that I know of.  One
with the PO and two since I've owned it.  The latest failure appears to
have been caused by a rivet that held the contact piece on the top of the
rotor.  I found the rivet in the bottom of the distributor.  On the way
down it appears to have knocked the advance weights loose causing the
weights to start grinding around on the inside of the distributor housing. 
I've got it going again but I still have a problem as follows.

When this engine (2.25 petrol) is running it sounds like a deisel or like
it needs the valve adjusted.  I've checked the valves several times and
they are set correctly.  In searching for the cause of the noise I found a
vibration in the distributor that matches the noise. I did not notice any
noise or vibration at the timing chain cover.  Also, as I turned the engine
over by hand to set the timing, I've noticed that the rotor jumps or snaps
forward in four places as it turns around 360 deg.  It feels like maybe the
cam is snapping forward as the lifter gets past the peak of a lobe but it
only does it four times for one rev of the cam or distributor.  The noise
that this engine makes is worse at idle and generally quiets down or
disappears at high revs.

Do any of you engine gurus out there have any suggestions. I'm trying to
avoid tearing down the engine completely or replacing it since it runs just
fine otherwise.

Thanks in advance 

Dan Rao

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 09 Oct 1997 16:22:00 -0700
From: Jeremy Bartlett <bartlett@slip.net>
Subject: Re: Distributor Self Destruct/Engine Noise HELP!!

Dan Prasada-Rao (301)757-1479 X26 wrote:

> My engine has just chewed up the third distributor that I know of.

snip

> I've noticed that the rotor jumps or snaps
> forward in four places as it turns around 360 deg.  It feels like maybe the
> cam is snapping forward as the lifter gets past the peak of a lobe but it
> only does it four times for one rev of the cam or distributor.

Well, this isn't particularly specific, but I'd be wondering abouteither the
distibutor gear/shaft assembly (and its associated gearing
on the camshaft).

Given the engine noise I wonder if the distributor is actually just
revealing a more fundamental problem in the cam (or engine rotation
generally).

Are the rotor "snaps" erratic or equally spaced/timed?
Did the prior distributors also behave this way?

cheers,

Jeremy

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 09 Oct 1997 21:22:01 -0400
From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com>
Subject: Re: clutch question

> Excellent advice.  I replaced an old SII clutch with a SIIa type.
> Symptoms
> were the same as yours.  I reset the slave cylinder push rod length
> back to
> manual specs and voila! the problem disappeared.

A spacer was used under the slave cylinder in LR's factory equipped with
9 1/2 inch clutches. Most North American IIAs and IIIs came with the
larger clutch. The same thing is accomplished by adjusting the push rod.

>  BTW, once adjusted, the
> clutch throw should be self adjusting for clutch lining wear.  That
> is, if
> the point of engagement changes, look hard at the master cylinder,
> lines,
> slave cylinder and fluid (air, leaks etc) before considering clutch
> plate
> problems.

True for IIA, not true for II. The factory manual calls for clutch
adjustment in IIs "from time to time".

Regards,
David Cockey

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 09 Oct 1997 21:26:39 -0400
From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com>
Subject: Re: Gear boxes and Bellhousing Question

> Any way my dilemma is I have been offered a very good box
> from a S2(A?) for a reasonable chunk less than sycro rings etc. for my
> box.... Also, can I just swap my bellhousing onto the S2 box to keep
> the clutch arrangement the same, or am I better off swapping to the S2
> clutch mechanism as well?

Recollection of what I've read on fitting a III box in a IIA is that the
input shaft has to be swapped to retain the bell housing & clutch
mechanism. Presumably the same is true for a swap the other way.

Regards,
David Cockey

------------------------------

From: Daryl Webb <dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au>
Subject: Austin Gipsy manual
Date: Fri, 10 Oct 1997 11:09:42 +0930 (CST)

I know this is off topic, but...

If anyone is interested I know where a genuine Austin Gipsy repair manual 
can be located, below $20 AUD,  No its not me but I can point you to the shop
cheers

-- 

  Daryl Webb   (dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 09 Oct 1997 18:52:55 -0700
From: Michael Carradine <carradine@unimog.net>
Subject: Jack McNamara Diff for sale

FOR SALE by Greg Durango (415-388-4936), Mill Valley, CA

Like new Jack McNamara differential, full hypoid, 4.7 ratio
(2) sets of heavy duty Salisbury axles
Detroit locker

To fit Land Rover Series II, IIA or III
US$2,800 new, asking $1,800 or best offer

Please call Greg Durango direct at 415-388-4936

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 09 Oct 1997 21:59:27 -0400
From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com>
Subject: Re: Series 2 Thermostat

> Does anyone have the part number for a series 2 thermostat, the kind
> that fits flush with the top of the housing, as the newer ones have a
> shoulder on them that doesn't allow it to fit on.

I haven't been able to find a source since PA Blanchard ran out last
year. These are among the hardest to find parts for a II engine. Best
bet is to convert to the newer housing and thermostat from a IIA, suffix
D or later or III. Find a dead engine as a donor. (British Northwest
will sell you a "kit" for a price.)

Part numbers of the major items for the conversion are:
Thermostat: 532453
Thermostat housing: 516059
Water outlet pipe to radiator: 527109
Thermostat bypass pipe: 530476

Regards,
David Cockey

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 9 Oct 1997 22:07:49 -0400 (EDT)
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Radio advice

After last weekend's Mid-Atlantic, we've got a few bucks left over, plus 
funds in the club account, so we're considering some new radios.  Mike 
sourced (read: given for free) the last ones (UHF's) from a small hospital 
that was getting rid of them (never did get a license, but then we were so 
bloody far from anyhting else, there was no interference).  Well, after four 
rallies, several trips to the radio shop, etc., four with dual batteries are 
down to a pair with one battery pack each.  So, all you folks with radio 
experience, I'd like to hear your suggestions on short-range communications 
(UHF vs. VHF vs. CB Vs. whatever)...off line, of course.  Cheers

      *---"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                  | 
      |     Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |
      |   "The oldest Rover-marque club in the Americas"   |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730    |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 757-622-7054 (Day) |
      |    757-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 757-622-7056    |
      |                                                    |
      *---1972 Series III 88"-----1996 Discovery SE-7(m)---*

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 9 Oct 1997 22:07:46 -0400 (EDT)
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Brake fluid redux

I'm afraid I'm going to have to disagree with you on this one, Jim; silicone 
is *not* hygroscopic like the glycol-based Castrol/Girling LMA stuff.  Now
it may be that water will precipitate/float or otherwise separate, but the 
only way water gets into you brake system in the first place is that it is 
*drawwn* in or absorbed by the glycol.  Silicone doesn't do this.  If water 
is somehow finding its way in (with silicone), then you don't have a braking 
system that is operational.  Cheers

And thanks for all you help at the Mid-Atlantic....

      *---"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                  | 
      |     Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |
      |   "The oldest Rover-marque club in the Americas"   |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730    |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 757-622-7054 (Day) |
      |    757-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 757-622-7056    |
      |                                                    |
      *---1972 Series III 88"-----1996 Discovery SE-7(m)---*

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 09 Oct 1997 22:57:13 -0400
From: Brian Cramer <defender@uscom.com>
Subject: IIa won't run...HELP!!!

Hi All!

My newly purchased IIa starts and idles fine, but after driving along a
mile, or two the engine starts missing and eventually dies. It won't
restart right away. It cranks, but doesn't fire up. After sitting for a
little while, it starts, and drives only to miss and stall again. Any ideas?

BTW, how does the CHARGE light operate? Mine glows bright at idle, and dims
at speed, but never seems to go out completely. Is this correct, or do I
have a charging problem? 
Cheers,

Brian Cramer
(888)434-4678 office
(609)665-4451 office fax
(609)273-9708 home
'94 D90 (#1251)
'90 RR County
'70 IIa Lightweight

------------------------------

From: Allan Smith <smitha@candw.lc>
Subject: Re: Importation
Date: Thu, 9 Oct 1997 23:12:52 -0300

On Thu, 09 Oct 1997, Michael Carradine <carradine@unimog.net> wrote:

> If Russian designed Rumanian Aro's can be imported into this
> country and pass DOT and EPA reg's, then how come Land Rover
> finds it not possible to bring in Defender 110 or full NA spec
> 90's (not the 2500 substandard versions brought over in this
> last batch) ??

Given that the 300 Tdi was developed from the 200 to meet stricter European emission 
requirements, and still can't be imported into the US (except in the Camel Trophy test 
sites?), it would be interesting to know if these Moscow Avtoexport productions meet 
European Community standards. I find it hard to believe that these are even in the 
same ballpark.

After 10 years of using Russian Niva 4WDs, my conclusion concerning their industry is

- very reliable, simple mechanics,  for me not one case of being stuck on the roadside 
after hundreds of routine really bad-road island crossings;
- poor quality steel, and rusting that was almost as fast as the D90 that replaced 
them;
- very poor quality plastic components, with brittle fragmentation of things like the 
casing for the windscreen washer pump and the reservoir.
 
- a major advantage was the ability to buy individual parts, rather than "kits" that 
are common with Asian vehicles and include a lot of stuff that isn't needed. As an 
example, last time I was in Germany when I wanted two nuts for the UJ bolts I could 
include them in an order and pay for just those - about 75 cents  - no $50 "UJ kit". 
The same obtains with LR, at least with the supplier that I deal with in the UK.

The bottom line is that if you cannot access a source of realistically-priced parts, 
and if you are not prepared to do your own maintenance, then go for the real thing. 

Personally, while I spent some time defending my USSR vehicles, there is nothing like 
 finally owning the truck that you have wanted since high school. And yes - it really 
meets the expectations!

Allan.

------------------------------

From: Bill Cooper <bcooper@3wnet.com>
Subject: RE: IIa won't run...HELP!!!
Date: Thu, 9 Oct 1997 23:17:14 -0400

Brian,

It sounds like you have a charging problem, at least as far as the charging 
light is concerned. As for the stalling problem, that sounds more like a bad 
coil, but can also be caused by a cracked distributor cap.

Bill
'66 IIa

-----Original Message-----
From:	Brian Cramer [SMTP:defender@uscom.com]
Sent:	Thursday, October 09, 1997 11:06 PM
To:	lro@playground.sun.com
Subject:	IIa won't run...HELP!!!

Hi All!

My newly purchased IIa starts and idles fine, but after driving along a
mile, or two the engine starts missing and eventually dies. It won't
restart right away. It cranks, but doesn't fire up. After sitting for a
little while, it starts, and drives only to miss and stall again. Any ideas?

BTW, how does the CHARGE light operate? Mine glows bright at idle, and dims
at speed, but never seems to go out completely. Is this correct, or do I
have a charging problem?
Cheers,

Brian Cramer
(888)434-4678 office
(609)665-4451 office fax
(609)273-9708 home
'94 D90 (#1251)
'90 RR County
'70 IIa Lightweight

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 09 Oct 1997 20:26:12 -0700
From: Greg Moore <gmoore@island.net>
Subject: Re: IIa won't run...HELP!!!

Brian Cramer wrote:
 
> My newly purchased IIa starts and idles fine, but after driving along a
> mile, or two the engine starts missing and eventually dies. It won't
> restart right away. It cranks, but doesn't fire up. After sitting for a
> little while, it starts, and drives only to miss and stall again. Any ideas?

Sounds a lot like fuel supply problems. Check the sediment bowl, any
inline fuel filters that are in the system and the pickup in the tank.
If it's none of those we'll have to go on to plan B.

Cheers, Greg

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 09 Oct 1997 20:24:12 -0500
From: car4doc <car4doc@concentric.net>
Subject: Used Winch wanted

Hi All,
 Well it seems I am on a search for parts again & as always I turn to
the net first.  I am looking for a servicable winch for my 109. So if
any one has one they can part with please email me directly.
 I also need some help to figure out what ratio the diff's are in my 88
axles.  It is my understanding that two differant diff's where used.
Thanks for any help you can give.
Regards,
Rob davis_chicago

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 09 Oct 1997 21:20:04 -0700
From: Granville Pool <gpool@pacific.net>
Subject: Re: Importation

Allan Smith said:

>Given that the 300 Tdi was developed from the 200 to meet stricter European 
>emission requirements, and still can't be imported into the US 

I don't think it's so much that the 300tdi *can't* be imported into the
U.S. as that LRNA doesn't figure the cost of certification is worthwhile
for the limited market it would have here.  Some here would just about kill
to have this engine but not nearly enough.  Now, if gasoline goes to $4 per
gallon here as it is in many countries, there will be a demand and LRNA
will no doubt find it worthwhile.

Cheers,

Granny

------------------------------

From: CIrvin1258@aol.com
Date: Fri, 10 Oct 1997 03:28:21 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Importation/Reno

Hey Matt,

You wouldn't happen to know who in Reno, has a 109 3-door Santana, would you?
I saw it at Stead also, and it was painted Desert Sand, just like my own 109
3-door. I thought that was kinda odd.

There was also an 88 that was leaving just as I was arriving, and I think
that it was bare metal - though I was kinda tired at the time...I can't even
remember what series it was! In either case, we exchanged waves as we were
passing by (we couldn't say 'hi', because my truck is rhd, while his was
lhd).

Charles

------------------------------

From: Andy Phillips <AnPi@serviceteam.co.uk>
Subject: RE: Roll Cages
Date: Fri, 10 Oct 1997 08:48:32 +0100

Hi,

I've had a 6-point external roll cage mounted to the chassis by
Bettaweld. Its very good and has the advantage of fixing to the chassis
through the wings. This means you can fit a roof rack to it and don't
have to worry about any changes to your roof as the whole soft-top is
accessible. Also, as I have a hardtop 90 it means my loadspace isn't
reduced. However, Bettaweld is in the UK and doesn't have a web site.
They are in LROi magazine so if you get it or have a buddy who can lend
you a copy there should be enough pictures for a design to be drawn up.
This might be a good starting point for your roll cage.

Cheers,

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	Steve Fullwood [SMTP:ansdf@ttacs1.ttu.edu]
> Sent:	Thursday, October 09, 1997 10:11 PM
> To:	lro@playground.sun.com
> Subject:	Roll Cages

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 29 lines)]
> Steve Fullwood
> 61' ser ii 88"

------------------------------

From: Andy Phillips <AnPi@serviceteam.co.uk>
Subject: RE: Roll Cages
Date: Fri, 10 Oct 1997 08:51:33 +0100

Yep. Agree with this and would like to add that if you contact Safety
Devices they will give you a shiny colour brochure which has very good
designs drawn up for RR LR90 LR110 and LR130. They also do truck cab
variations. The brochure should be really helpful.

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	gpool@pacific.net [SMTP:gpool@pacific.net]
> Sent:	Thursday, October 09, 1997 10:21 PM
> To:	lro@playground.sun.com
> Subject:	Re: Roll Cages

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 56 lines)]
> Hope this helps,
> Granny

------------------------------

From: b.boehlers@olsy.dk (Bent Boehlers)
Subject: RE: Roll Cages
Date: Fri, 10 Oct 1997 10:11:30 +0100

Yep. Agree with this and would like to add that if you contact Safety
Devices they will give you a shiny colour brochure which has very good
designs drawn up for RR LR90 LR110 and LR130. They also do truck cab
variations. The brochure should be really helpful.

Have a look at:
http://dialspace.dial.pipex.com/pdpr/lrover.htm
That is Safety Devices homepage for Land -Rovers.

Happy Rovering

Bent Boehlers
Denmark

begin 600 WINMAIL.DAT

	[Attachment WINMAIL.DAT removed, was 33 lines.]	end

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 10 Oct 1997 09:42:10 +0000
From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Subject: Re: Sticky Steering Wheel

>The steering wheel (the old style) on my 64 llA gets sticky when wet and
>leaves black deposits on my hands.  Is there any cure for this?
>David Hope

If you want a quick(albeit temporary)fix try this.Rub the rim with
Brasso or similar metal polish,and rub off.Then use a spray on
furniture polish,and rub that off,too,as per instructions on the
tin.
Cheers
Mike Rooth

------------------------------

From: CIrvin1258@aol.com
Date: Fri, 10 Oct 1997 05:47:47 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Distributor Self Destruct/Engine Noise HELP!!

Dan,

I have the answer to your problem, and I'm so confident that I know the
answer, that I'm willing to place money on it!

Exactly 10 years ago, I had this MGB-GT that I had bought from a friend, and
it developed the very same problem soon after I had the engine rebuilt. I
went through at least a dozen dizzys - so many that, I carried replacements
with me, just in case one decided to let go! (of course, this was after I had
been stranded about 40 miles from home, knew what the problem was, and had to
have the car towed) I even tore down the engine overnight in a friends' shop,
in the hopes that I could find the answer, but it wasn't until I was
rebuilding the front suspension, that I found the cause...

My friend, you have a loose crank pulley! It COULD be the timing gear on the
camshaft, but it's most likely the crank pulley. This, in turn, lets the
timing gear on the crankshaft move back and forth, and eventually, side to
side, causing the keyway on the crankshaft itself, to wear out.

This, is why you don't have the "The valves are WAY out of adjustment - but I
just did it!" sound, all the time, and, it's also why the dizzys' are
committing suicide.

The solution? Unfortunately, the crankshaft most likely has to be replaced,
because, if its this bad, then the keyway that holds the timing gear in
place, is too worn out. (I wouldn't trust something like this, to be
re-welded, since there's constant pressure on this point)

Why didn't I find this on my own car when I tore the engine down? Because, it
never dawned on me at the time, to check the timing gears.

Now, if the crank pulley is nice and tight, take it off, (check also, for a
new locktab here) and check the timing gear on the crank: if the keyway is
worn and the locktab is new, then the PO probably figured it out, and didn't
want to spend money on a new crankshaft, and so, he sold the truck for
whatever he could get.

Hate to be the bringer of expensive news, but - been there, done that.

Charles
P.S. If you've been re-adjusting the valves, you may also want to take a look
at the pushrods: a few of them could have been bent, since the timing isn't
consistant.

------------------------------

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