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Date: Tue, 7 Oct 1997 04:06:32 -0700 (PDT)
From: Lorri Paustian <lorri@sound.net>
Subject: Oct. Issue LRO

In the October issue of LRO, page 108, the article mentioned the
recommendation of a product called "Unidox Zinc Rich Primer."  Does anyone
know where to get this product in the U.S.  Also, does anyone know of
anything better available here in the U.S.?  Thanks.
Lorri Paustian, Flatland Rover Society
Lenexa, Kansas
'95 Coniston Green D90 SW
'95 Arles Blue D90 SW

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 07 Oct 1997 08:45:29 -0300
From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Viva Rochester!

J.M. Reinan wrote:
> After much research & anal retentive behavior, I installed a rebuilt
> Rochester Model B onto my '64 88".  Jim Axman donated the old pot to my
> cause as he is amidst the total, frame-off restoration of his 109, and
> had already ordered a clean, new carb from RN.  Thanks, Jim! After
> soaking the carb in cleaner for two days straight, it took a $10.00
> rebuild with little or no unusual effort.

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 32 lines)]
> P.S.  What do you suppose would happen if I crammed the Jag V12 motor
> into the Series?
you would have to cut a chunck off the rear drive shaft and duct tape it
to the front one... let me know when you want the job done  I'm good at
such hi tech stuff.  john

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 07 Oct 1997 08:59:21 -0300
From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Gaiters

Michael Wells wrote:
> I have leather gaitors fitted to my series 1 and i find them good while the
> leather stays supple.  A few years ago i fitted a kit to my 80". Job very
> easy just split the swivel from the axle tube and install the new kit with
> a new swivel seal then refit. The chrome needs to be good to start with as
> a rusty surface soon tears the seal lip. The 80" seals lasted about 5 years
> untill they got so dry they cracked but the ones fitted to the 86" are
> lasting much longer than that. If you dont need to fit a new seal you can
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 12 lines)]
> any information on the rubber gaitors fitted to the Dutch army Land Rovers?
> Mick.   Great Yarmouth, 1954 86" petrol.
I fitted gaiters to my 88 in 1985 they were soaked in vasilene and
installed with the lacing down. this truck saw about 85% OffRoad use
before being taken out of use in 1994 it now resides in the barn and
still has no rust on the swivel balls.  john

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 7 Oct 1997 08:35:32 -0400 (EDT)
From: kelliott@intranet.ca (Keith Elliott)
Subject: Re: clutch question

>> From:          kelliott@intranet.ca (Keith Elliott)
>> Subject:       clutch question
>> question about adjusting the clutch. The new engine came to me with a clutch
>> and it is really different than what I am used to, it is tougher to depress
>> the pedal at the start and then when you let out the pedal the clutch
>Others commented on the engagement so here's one on the the hard 
>pedal.
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 14 lines)]
>footwell. When i drive my 109 i can actually feel that there's a 
>clutch under my foot.

Yep, that is what it is. The engine/clutch is from a 1966 109 so the clutch
is a bigger one. 
Thanks to everyone that replied to my question!

>Even if the engine came from a SWB the PO could have uprated the 
>clutch somtime in the past.
>rgds
>sv/aurens
>New address:
>dko5319@vip.cybercity.dk
>pedal.

Keith
1961 Series II 88"
Ottawa

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 07 Oct 1997 09:21:01 -0400
From: Dean Meyer <Dean.Meyer@internord.net>
Subject: Series III transmission

Has anyone had any experience with a rebuilt transmission and transfer
case from Paddock in the UK? I'm considering plunking down 260GBP plus
100GBP core charge (I'm in Kweebeck) instead of trying to rebuild mine.
I drained out what looks like three sets of gear teeth and assorted
brass bits out of mine last month. There are also some bits too big to
come through the drain hole. Ugh!

Dean Meyer

1964 Morris Mini Minor Traveller "Wanna see my woody?" - (needs a good
wax
job)
1966 Austin-Healey 3000 MK III "The moneypit from Vegas" - (preparing to
be
sealed in an Andy Warhol time capsule and buried in the yard)
1967 Austin-Healey Sprite MK III "The big block" - (95 BHP Swiftune
Sports
Tourer on the way from Longs Corner Farm!)
1974 Land Rover Series III 88" "Kinabalu" - (the Tin Man - has no heart)

------------------------------

From: "K. John Wood" <jwrover@colo-net.com>
Date: Mon, 6 Oct 1997 20:03:37 -0600

Please 
Subscribe jwrover@colo-net.com

------------------------------

From: "Tackley, John" <jtackley.dit@state.va.us>
Subject: RE: Replacement Seats
Date: Tue, 7 Oct 1997 10:48:23 -0400

Jim Krebs asked about replacement seats for his '62...

I, too went thru this search about a year ago.  Best fit and comfort
came from Honda CRX seats from late '80's.
But at $125 ea. from the scrap yard locally, high back Trakkers seemed
more attractive.  In actuality, what I ended 
up doing was buying a complete Trakkers interior from a recently
restored IIA that was totaled in a wreck.  (Not one straight body piece)
>.
I then took the front Trakkers covers off and put them on the original
frames, as the originals used a superior design and quality of foam
padding.
Choices, choices.....good luck.

John Tackley
'70 IIA 88
'74 III  88
>Richmond, VA

------------------------------

From: "Russell G. Dushin" <dushinrg@primail.pr.cyanamid.com>
Subject: Re: Mid Atlantic ROAV Rally
Date: Tue, 7 Oct 97 11:07:27 EDT

Sandy-

Thanks gazillion times over for all the effort you and (especially)
your wife put in last weekend.  Clearly, this event took alot of work
to put on and your efforts and those of others are greatly appreciated.
Also many many thanks to the McCaigs (sp??) for once again hosting the
event.  They's fiiine folks.

Re: the feely-meely boxes....could you please post the answers?  Seems
the winner of the Coil Sprung box didn't get tooo many right (1 1/2 out
of 5) and why was this, me wonders...does every pollution control device
feel the same???!!!    

cheers,
rd/nige

------------------------------

From: debrown@srp.gov
Date: 07 Oct 97 08:22:33 MST
Subject: Diff lockers...

From: <debrown@srp.gov>
       PAB219 (602)236-3544 -  Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486
                                    Pers. E-mail: rovernut@hotmail.com
Matt,

I believe Lock Right sells a automatic locker for LR. I have one in the rear
of my Range Rover. It may be the same unit??

Call them at 1-800-lockers

Dave Brown

 Never give up your life for          #=======#         _____l___
 anything that death can take away.   |__|__|__\___    //__|__|__\___
                        -anonymous    | _|  |   |_ |}  \__ - ____ - _|}
                                      "(_)""""""(_)"      (_)    (_)

------------------------------

From: Michael R Fredette <mfredett@ptdcs2.intel.com>
Subject: Re: Oct. Issue LRO
Date: Tue, 7 Oct 1997 08:32:53 -0700 (PDT)

 In the October issue of LRO, page 108, the article mentioned the
 recommendation of a product called "Unidox Zinc Rich Primer."  Does anyone
 know where to get this product in the U.S.  Also, does anyone know of
 anything better available here in the U.S.?  Thanks.
 Lorri Paustian, Flatland Rover Society

 Lorri,

     Check your local NAPA auto parts, they carry a Zinc Rich Primer/Cold
     Galvanizing Compound. Rustoleum does as well. They both work great, the
     only caveat being, when you are done spraying several small items and
     anything more than about an hour before spraying something else, be sure
     and turn the can upside down and spray to clear the nozzle. This primer 
     has a very thick viscosity and will clog the nozzle and feed tube inside
     preventing the use of the rest the contents. Both brands claim something
     like 98% pure Zinc contant, I dunno, but the spray can feels like it weighs
     3 times the normal.

     Rgds
     Mike Fredette
     101FC

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 7 Oct 1997 12:01:11 -0400 (EDT)
From: Hank Rutherford <ruthrfrd@borg.com>
Subject: Gaiters

On 6 Oct, Michael Wells wrote:

<<Has anyone
any information on the rubber gaitors fitted to the Dutch army Land Rovers?>>
  
   I recently purchased a set of rubber gaiters from P.A. Blanchard in UK.
Installation requires the removal of the chrome housings from the axle case.
They are a Tight Fit, as they have to be stretched over the small end of the
swivel ball. This can be compared to putting a size 12 foot in a size 4
wellington boot. A liberal spraying of silicone helped. I've noticed that
the corrugations "pinch" a bit when at full lock. No doubt that when this
vehicle hits the road, I will keep a good eye on their condition, as any
holes will cause them to fill with muck. It was necessary to seal the small
end of the gaiter with a plastic wire tie to completely seal things up.
Worth noting also, the large end is integral with the large seal retainer,
it is not necessary to use the one that came off. 
   All things considered, I would consider the jury to still be out on the
choice of "no gaiter/leather gaiter/rubber gaiter".
1. No gaiter - no extra protection, no maintenance, no surprises, what you
see is what you got.
2. Leather gaiter - extra protection, Relatively easy to install, have to be
greased occasionally to remain supple, inspection for internal contamination
possible, surprise possible if you don't. 
3. Rubber gaiter - extra protection, a b*tch to install unless you are there
already, inspection possible by removal of 6 bolts and pulling back gaiter
(this may cause seal and oil to escape the housing), much easier to detect
holes in rubber than in leather, a big surprise possible if you don't.

  BTW, I greased the chrome housing with CV joint moly grease beneath the
gaiter. There was too much "stick-shun" between the chrome and rubber. I
felt this would cause premature failure.
   Another comment, perhaps the military considers the "pain in the a**"
factor a minor inconvenience since routine maintenance is much more frequent
and extensive. How often did they tear down the front axles/replace these
parts? Since they may have been there already, rubber gaiters may have been
a cost effective alternative to swivel ball replacement.

                       More questions than answers,
                                                                      Ruthrf
rd@borg.com
  

------------------------------

From: RoverNut@aol.com
Date: Tue, 7 Oct 1997 12:09:49 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

In a message dated 97-10-07 07:04:26 EDT, you write:

<< Subject: Inconsistent Idle  '89RR
 Date: Mon, 6 Oct 1997 09:31:33 -0700 >>

Hello,

First, be advised, this is the Series/Coil Sprung list. E.G.- old trucks
only. Your question is best suited to the Coil Sprung list (RR0).

I also have an 89 RR.
The engine "flare ups" you mention are quite common for the vehicle. Over the
years, LRNA has replaced many a chip in an effort to eliminate the problem.
You may want to check to see if yours has been done. I can't tell you how to
do that, but asking the PO is the best option if it's available to you.

I would also check your vacuum lines. Above the plenum is a T-piece that have
a little pin hole at it's junction. This is the PCV and it should be
unobstructed - blow through it to check. 
Usually, your EFI light will be on if it's clogged, but on a vehicle  this
old it's worth checking regardless. It's obscenely expensive for what it is:
$30-$40.
Clean your flame trap to avoid future clog-ups.
BTW, does your EFI light come on at start-up? If it doesn't, it may have been
disconnected by the PO - a common practice since they tend to come on when
you forget your anniversary, run a red light, forget to say please and
thanks, etc. 
Alas, it seems to be an important feature for diagnosis.

Good Luck
Alex Maiolo
69IIa
89RR

------------------------------

From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Subject: RE: 10 Signs You've Bought a NADA Land-Rover
Date: Tue, 7 Oct 1997 09:12:44 -0700

No. 11

How 'bout the most common utterance of a Land Rover owner (at least in
North America)

"Don't call it a #@!% Jeep, its a LAND ROVER!!!"

Paul.

>-----Original Message-----
>From:	Neil Sheridan [SMTP:neil_seg@ix.netcom.com]
>Offered with all due apologies to the original artist (?), I thought that the
>original UK version of "10 Signs" could be amended for those of us in 
>the "North American Dollar Area".   
> 1. You buy specially imported, glossy magazines with pictures of 
>half-naked, oiled up, muddy -- trucks.          
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 33 lines)]
>Land-Ho's Rover Club 
>neil_seg@ix.netcom.com

------------------------------

From: Andy Phillips <AnPi@serviceteam.co.uk>
Subject: RE: 10 Signs You've Bought a NADA Land-Rover
Date: Tue, 7 Oct 1997 17:19:55 +0100

If you're going to start down that road we have:

Don't call it a $%^!&*! van, its a LAND ROVER!
Don't call it a $%^!&*! lorry, its a LAND ROVER!
Don't call it . . . . . . . . . . et al.

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	Paul Quin [SMTP:Paul_Quin@pml.com]
> Sent:	Tuesday, October 07, 1997 5:13 PM
> To:	lro@playground.sun.com
> Subject:	RE: 10 Signs You've Bought a NADA Land-Rover

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 25 lines)]
> >Land-Ho's Rover Club 
> >neil_seg@ix.netcom.com

------------------------------

From: RoverNut@aol.com
Date: Tue, 7 Oct 1997 12:45:55 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: WTB:D110

~sorry about cross-posting~

Ladies and Gentleman,
 
My very lovely future wife can't see any reason we don't need to add a 110 to
the family (did I mention she was lovely?). She will take my beloved steed,
an 89RR, as her daily driver after I polish it up a bit and remove the dents
I purchased at Mid-Atlantic.
My limit  is the low $30k mark, so I won't be holding my breath, but a few
folks that know what's what have told me there will be a price drop in the
next few months since they ain't selling like they used to and they are
accruing miles; the rich don't LIKE miles.
I don't care if it's an NAS model or a grey-market. Mileage isn't an issue.
Deisel is OK and even warmly recieved.
Please keep your respective eyes peeled. I'll travel nearly anywhere in the
US to get it. If legal issues aren't a problem, Canada is OK too, I just need
to check out all the import blather. Any aide will be appreciated in spades.

Alex Maiolo
89rr
69IIa

------------------------------

From: "=?ISO-8859-1?Q?Micael_B=F6ss?=" <boss@centrum.is>
Subject: Brakefluid reservoir
Date: Wed, 8 Oct 1997 22:45:46 +0100

Hi there folks!
I´ve stumbled on another little problem in my daily maintainance of my
SIII.
The thing is the PO blew a hole in the brake-fluid reservoir when trying to
clean the braking system. No big deal, he gave me an old master cylinder
with a reservoir attached to it, so I set about taking the reservoir off. 
Only it will not come off.  According to Haynes I should be able to "lift
it off" after loosening the two screws holding it to the cylinder, but
after having tried lifting for some time, and being afraid of breaking the
plastic, I´m asking for your advice.  Is there something holding it in
there or is it just stuck in twenty years of muck?  Whats the trick?  I´m
talking about the small outlet from the reservoir, nearest the front of the
car, on a dual type cylinder.
    
Grateful for all hints and comments
 
                Micael Böss
                SIII SWB Diesel 1977
                Iceland

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 7 Oct 1997 19:22:15 -0400
From: The Bickertons <Bickerton@compuserve.com>
Subject: Car seats

Hi all!
        Here in the UK, the favourite seats seem to be Austin seats (Metr=
o,
Montego, Maestro etc). I dont know whether these models were available in=

the US, although I have heard good things about Volvo seats, and have see=
n
some GM seats in a SIIA lightweight, although the base was mounted at a
silly angle, which made working the pedals hard. Any seat which is not to=
o
tall, or leans too far back. Headrests are also a problem in a truckcab.
        Hope this helps, just another viewpoint from the UK.

        John Bickerton
        Turnditch, Derbyshire, UK

        SIII in bits, SIIA complete, but knackered chassis.

------------------------------

From: Solihull@aol.com
Date: Tue, 7 Oct 1997 20:37:23 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re:  Brakefluid reservoir

If it's the same as the brakefluid reservoir on my 73 series three, it
doesn't come off in one piece. The forward part has a little ring which snaps
into a groove cut for it in the master cylinder. If memory serves, its the
same res as the old Austin/Morris Marina.
Cheers!!
John Dillingham
near Canton, GA
KF4NAS     LROA #1095
73 s3 swb 25902676b DD "Pansy"
72 s3 swb 25900502a rusted, in suspended animation
Looking for a P5 project, well, OK, or a P6 or another SD1
Vintage Rover Service, since 1994, where we say:
Land Rovers for Agriculture!
Land Rovers for Industry!
Land Rovers for Recreation!
Land Rovers forever!! D.V.

------------------------------

From: Allan Smith <smitha@candw.lc>
Subject: RE: 1 sign you've got a Land Rover
Date: Tue, 7 Oct 1997 21:29:08 -0300

On Tue, 7 Oct 1997, Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com> wrote:

>No. 11
>How 'bout the most common utterance of a Land Rover owner (at least in
>North America)
>"Don't call it a #@!% Jeep, its a LAND ROVER!!!"

D@*n right, but have to be adaptable in some places though. Getting my 2nd year MOT 
equivalent in Feb, which only involves having a petrol attendant fill in a form in the 
filling station office, I watched as the answer to "Make" was Land Rover, the "Model 
was "Jeep". Plus ca change - before that it had been "Make" Lada, "Model "Jeep".

 Here there is no association of the name with the marque, it is only a type of 
vehicle. Airport rental ads offer the Suzuki Sardinarai as a Jeep. However, people 
still know what a Land Rover is, despite the similar gap in presence seen in the US. 
When filling up I often get the comment "You got da bes Jeep". That's the sign.
My response now is "Yes I".
Which means "Indubitably"
Allan

Allan Smith
Research Scientist
Caribbean Natural Resources Institute
Vieux Fort
St. Lucia, West Indies.
Tel +(758) 454 6060
Fax +(758) 454 5188

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 08 Oct 1997 02:32:53 -0400
From: David L Glaser <dlglaser@wam.umd.edu>
Subject: Brush/roller painting aluminum

When I was in Barnes & Noble today, I noticed that the current issue of
KitPlane magazine had an article on roller painting aluminum.  Every so
often, someone asks how to properly paint aluminum and this article
seemed to properly explain everything. i really didn't have time to read
the whole article, but it did say what paints, rollers, etc. work the
best with aluminum. From the pictures I saw, the paint job turned out
pretty nice.

Hope the info helps somebody

David Glaser

------------------------------

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