Land Rover Owner Message Digest Contents


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The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

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msgSender linesSubject
1 kelliott@intranet.ca (Ke21Wild Speedo.
2 Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lo28Re: Wild Speedo.
3 john cranfield [john.cra21Re: Wild Speedo.
4 kelliott@intranet.ca (Ke22Re: Wild Speedo.
5 Anthony Sanna [asanna@sa39[not specified]
6 M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (M20Re: IIa Drive Train Puzzler
7 matt [nelsml73@snyoneva.9Frame Over
8 matt [nelsml73@snyoneva.6(no subject)
9 David Russell [David_R@m12[not specified]
10 "Michael Wells" [michael16Gaiters
11 matt [nelsml73@snyoneva.13Re: Gaiters
12 "Mazur" [robertm@cco.net26Inconsistent Idle '89RR
13 Michael R Fredette [mfre34Re: Inconsistent Idle '89RR
14 Paul Oxley [paul@adventu6subscribe
15 Norm Lewis [norm@kpco.co26Re: Pierce intake manifolds in cold weather
16 Matt Nelson [nelsml73@sn13Diff Lockers
17 debrown@srp.gov 69Offer on my 109 (for sale)
18 Matt Nelson [nelsml73@sn33Re: Offer on my 109 (for sale)
19 "Eyres, Richard RP" [Eyr26RE: Gear boxes and Bellhousing Question
20 john cranfield [john.cra20Re: Diff Lockers
21 "Ryan O. Emge" [ts4@top.16Range Rover for Sale...
22 matt [nelsml73@snyoneva.17yet another question-hydraulics.
23 john cranfield [john.cra6where's the nerd
24 "K. John Wood" [jwrover@16Need Help Subscribing
25 john cranfield [john.cra18Re: Need Help Subscribing
26 FisherRKTX@aol.com 26re: Replacement Seats
27 "Christopher H. Dow" [do20Re: Replacement Seats
28 FisherRKTX@aol.com 16Re: Landy vs Eugene the Jeep
29 Neil Sheridan [neil_seg@3410 Signs You've Bought a NADA Land-Rover
30 "Eyres, Richard RP" [Eyr46re: Replacement Seats
31 rover@pinn.net (Alexande69Mid-Atlantic Rally
32 BarrieWyLR@aol.com 8Re: Diff Lockers
33 "J.M. Reinan" [jreinan@l35Viva Rochester!
34 Simon Ward-Hastelow [sim22[not specified]
35 DHW4U@aol.com 10Re: Viva Rochester!
36 Iwan Vosloo [ivosloo@cs.14Churchill tools website?
37 David L Glaser [dlglaser15Re: Mid-Atlantic Rally
38 David L Glaser [dlglaser29Sightings/Mid-Atlantic
39 Autoconv@aol.com 20Re: Diff Lockers (Reply)
40 Autoconv@aol.com 14Re: Churchill tools website?
41 Steve Mace [steve@solwis39RE: Leather gaiters on swivel hubs??
42 Franz Parzefall [franz@m41Re: Leather gaiters on swivel hubs??


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Date: Mon, 6 Oct 1997 08:00:19 -0400 (EDT)
From: kelliott@intranet.ca (Keith Elliott)
Subject: Wild Speedo.

Hi Everyone...

   I have just attached a speedometer cable to my LR for the first time
since I have owned it. I can almost tell how slow I am going now :) I
remember back a while on the list the topic of speedos moveing wildly and
that there was a fix for it. I remember something about a nut that has to be
tightened but I thats as far as my memory goes. Does Someone who remembers
about this email me and give me the low down on what has to be done to fix
this problem. Another thing that I am curious about is on an 88" fitted with
7.50s what kind of discrepencies (sp) have people found between what is
shown on the speedo and the actual speed?

Thanks

Keith
1961 Series II 88"

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From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Mon, 6 Oct 1997 08:07:22 -0400
Subject: Re: Wild Speedo.

Re: Nut to be tightened:

In between the driver's seat and the steering wheel.....8*)

Sorry....couldn't resist....8*)

Seriously, the one that's most likely buggered is the nut holding on the
rear drive flange to the transfer case  output shaft. Drop the rear
propshaft at the transfer case - you'll find a castellated nut secured with
a cotter pin - that's the beast. It needs to be torqued to 85 foot-pounds
if my memory serves me correctly.

Also, make doggone sure the speedo cable is properly secured to the back of
the speedometer - if not, it will swing wildly as the square drive end
doesn't engage the socket on the rear of the speedo drive correctly.

Re: Correction factor: I'd take a guess at 10% and go with that... if
you're at all friendly with your local gendermarie then a request for a
speed check to an officer on radar gun duty might well get you the info you
need with a minimum of hassle.

                    Alan/Mr. Churchill

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Date: Mon, 06 Oct 1997 09:17:55 -0300
From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Wild Speedo.

the wild speedo can be fixed by 1. get under the rover(your usual
position)                       2. remove the front of the rear drive
shaft.                          3. remove the cotter pin and tighten the
nut revealed there to about as tight as you can with 1/2 in ratchet
without a cheater bar.          4, replace driveshaft Keith Elliott
wrote:
> Hi Everyone...
>    I have just attached a speedometer cable to my LR for the first time
> since I have owned it. I can almost tell how slow I am going now :) I
> remember back a while on the list the topic of speedos moveing wildly and
> that there was a fix for it. I remember something about a nut that has to be
> tightened but I thats as far as my memory goes. Does Someone who remembers

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 18 lines)]
> Keith
> 1961 Series II 88"

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Date: Mon, 6 Oct 1997 08:17:45 -0400 (EDT)
From: kelliott@intranet.ca (Keith Elliott)
Subject: Re: Wild Speedo.

>Re: Nut to be tightened:
>In between the driver's seat and the steering wheel.....8*)

Thats funny, ever since buying the Landy my significant other says the same
thing...

>Sorry....couldn't resist....8*)
>Seriously, the one that's most likely buggered is the nut holding on the
>rear drive flange to the transfer case  output shaft. Drop the rear
>propshaft at the transfer case - you'll find a castellated nut secured with
>a cotter pin - that's the beast. It needs to be torqued to 85 foot-pounds
>if my memory serves me correctly.

Thanks Alan, I'll check that.

Keith 
1961 Series II 88"

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Subject: IIa Drive Train Puzzler
Date: Mon, 6 Oct 97 08:27:33 -0500
From: Anthony Sanna <asanna@sacofoods.com>

>ok dad, here it is:
>NOTHING happens until i put it into LOW RANGE 4wd,  then EVERYTHING works (LR
>+ HR 4WD, 2WD).  actually i don't know about the overdrive.
>k.

OK...  Let's review:

2WD, ROVER DOESN'T MOVE.  Questions:  Does the rear drive shaft spin with 
engine running, clutch out, in gear?  Does moving the O/D lever to the in 
or out positions make a diference?  Does engaging 4WD high range (yellow 
knob down) move the truck?  ..spin the drive shafts?

LOW RANGE 4WD, ROVER  MOVES.  Questions:  Is there power to the rear 
wheels?  ...can you spin the rear wheels/throw stones on a gravel road, 
or just with the front tires?  ...do you get wheel-hop while turning on 
pavement?    Does moving the O/D lever to the in or out positions make a 
diference?

HIGH RANGE 4WD & 2WD, I DON'T UNDERSTAND.  Are you saying that IF you you 
put Lulubelle in low range 4WD (red lever back) and then back into high 
range (red lever forward) that 2WD & high range 4WD then work?

I need more information, Kyle.  Let me know.

Dad

Anthony R. Sanna
SACO Foods, Inc.
6120 University Avenue
Middleton, Wisconsin  53562  USA

asanna@sacofoods.com

1-800-373-7226
(608) 238-9101

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Date: Mon, 6 Oct 1997 15:34:04 +0000
From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Subject: Re: IIa Drive Train Puzzler

>>ok dad, here it is:
>>NOTHING happens until i put it into LOW RANGE 4wd,  then EVERYTHING works (LR
>>+ HR 4WD, 2WD).  actually i don't know about the overdrive.
>>k.

>HIGH RANGE 4WD & 2WD, I DON'T UNDERSTAND.
Er...this is probably going to get my head onna block,but...
It sounds like a little confusion as to the red lever.Sounds as
though he's pushing it *forward* thinking he's engaging Low Box,then
pulling it back into neutral,rather than fully rearward.
He wont get anywhere with it in neutral,and pushing it forwards will
restore the status quo.
Now I'll duck:-)
Cheers
Mike Rooth

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Date: Mon, 06 Oct 1997 10:53:46 -0700
From: matt <nelsml73@snyoneva.cc.oneonta.edu>
Subject: Frame Over

Does anyone have any tips for someone who is attempting their first
> frame over on a 65 sIIa88?
> thanks
> Matt Nelson

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Date: Mon, 06 Oct 1997 10:55:14 -0700
From: matt <nelsml73@snyoneva.cc.oneonta.edu>
Subject: (no subject)

subscribe lro

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Subject: test-ignore
Date: Mon, 6 Oct 97 11:23:02 -0400
From: David Russell <David_R@mindspring.com>

test

David Russell
http://www.mindspring.com/~david_r
David_R@mindspring.com
1969 SIIA SWB (Pastel Green, 4-speed)
1997 SD (Oxford Blue, 5-speed)
1977 FJ40 (rust, 8-speed (hopefully still))

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From: "Michael Wells" <michael.wells@rjt.co.uk>
Subject: Gaiters
Date: Mon, 6 Oct 1997 16:36:00 +0100

I have leather gaitors fitted to my series 1 and i find them good while the
leather stays supple.  A few years ago i fitted a kit to my 80". Job very
easy just split the swivel from the axle tube and install the new kit with
a new swivel seal then refit. The chrome needs to be good to start with as
a rusty surface soon tears the seal lip. The 80" seals lasted about 5 years
untill they got so dry they cracked but the ones fitted to the 86" are
lasting much longer than that. If you dont need to fit a new seal you can
fit the gaitors without splitting the axle, just lace them up. Has anyone
any information on the rubber gaitors fitted to the Dutch army Land Rovers?
Mick.   Great Yarmouth, 1954 86" petrol.

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Date: Mon, 06 Oct 1997 11:51:02 -0700
From: matt <nelsml73@snyoneva.cc.oneonta.edu>
Subject: Re: Gaiters

The rovers I've observed had better swivels when they didn't have
gaiters, it seems as though the gaiters hold in more stuff(salt etc) and
keep it in contact with the swivels for longer than would be true if
there are no gaiters. 

just my thoughts

matt nelson

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From: "Mazur" <robertm@cco.net>
Subject: Inconsistent Idle  '89RR
Date: Mon, 6 Oct 1997 09:31:33 -0700

Being a new guy to the Rover scene, I'd appreciate anyone's fantastic
advice on this...

I have an '89 RR.  It seems in the past week it has developed the following
3 symptoms:  1)  At 40 mph with my foot off the throttle the engine surges
between 1000rpm to 2000 rpm till it moves away from 40mph***   2) At
highway speeds when I let off the throttle the engine "clicks" (like
someone shutting off a water faucet) but will still idle down the highway;
stepping back onto the throttle produces another "click" and it sounds like
the fuel is pouring in again (like turning the faucet back on)***   3) 
When put into "PARK" after driving for a bit, the enigine will occassionaly
(50% of the time) idle high, up at around 2000rpm.

I'm a Weekend Warrior fix-it guy and would like to repair this myself...but
I'd love to get a suggestion or two from you guys.  Could it be clog in
fuel line...bad spark plugs...something loose in the thottle assembly..???

Thanks in advance.

Rob-Seattle-USA

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From: Michael R Fredette <mfredett@ptdcs2.intel.com>
Subject: Re: Inconsistent Idle  '89RR
Date: Mon, 6 Oct 1997 09:58:08 -0700 (PDT)

 Being a new guy to the Rover scene, I'd appreciate anyone's fantastic
 advice on this...
 
 I have an '89 RR.  It seems in the past week it has developed the following
 3 symptoms:  1)  At 40 mph with my foot off the throttle the engine surges
 between 1000rpm to 2000 rpm till it moves away from 40mph***   2) At
 highway speeds when I let off the throttle the engine "clicks" (like
 someone shutting off a water faucet) but will still idle down the highway;
 stepping back onto the throttle produces another "click" and it sounds like
 the fuel is pouring in again (like turning the faucet back on)***   3) 
 When put into "PARK" after driving for a bit, the enigine will occassionaly
 (50% of the time) idle high, up at around 2000rpm.
 I'm a Weekend Warrior fix-it guy and would like to repair this myself...but
 I'd love to get a suggestion or two from you guys.  Could it be clog in
 fuel line...bad spark plugs...something loose in the thottle assembly..???
 
 Thanks in advance.
 
 Rob-Seattle-USA
 
Rob,

    It sounds like your idle-stepper motor is kapput. Very common.A bit spendy,
    but easily replaced. You can try taking off and cleaning it up, but it's
    better if just replaced.

    Rgds
    Mike Fredette

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Date: Mon, 06 Oct 1997 19:25:55 +0200
From: Paul Oxley <paul@adventures.co.za>
Subject: subscribe

subscribe lro

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Date: Mon, 06 Oct 1997 12:32:41 -0600
From: Norm Lewis <norm@kpco.com>
Subject: Re: Pierce intake manifolds in cold weather

On Sunday, Oct. 5 1997 David Scheidt wrote:

> 3)  I am concerned about how this is going to run during the winter.  When
> it is slightly chilly, it seems to stumble a bit until the temp. gague
> reads 100F (and requires the choke longer than that.).   I suspect this
> behavior will not improve when the tempature goes even lower.  I am also
> concerned about icing.  there is no preheating of intake air, and the carb
> is pretty well isolated from the exhaust manifold.  Is this a justifable
> concern, and what can be done?

Contact Pierce.  They have a hot water adapter that they weld to the
base of the intake manifold to provide some intake heat for cold-weather
driving.  They say it even helps some in warmer weather too.  Although I
haven't had much problems in cold weather with the Weber set-up without
this, I still plan to have this modification done soon, as the past few
Colorado winters have been relatively mild in Denver, and one of these
years we just may have a cold one!

I've also heard that Weber has a carb spacer that incorporates hot water
hookups, but I don't have any details on this.  It may show up in a
Weber catalog, though.

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Date: Mon, 06 Oct 1997 14:47:15 -0700
From: Matt Nelson <nelsml73@snyoneva.cc.oneonta.edu>
Subject: Diff Lockers

Does anyone know of a source for Diff lockers other thna ARB? I am
interested in automatic lockers for my S2a88 and do not want to deal
with ARBs. What info do I need to know about my Diffs when asking for a
Diff locker? Just that they are rover type diffs? Help me out I'm really
confused

thanks
Matt Nelson

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From: debrown@srp.gov
Date: 06 Oct 97 13:00:36 MST
Subject: Offer on my 109 (for sale)

From: <debrown@srp.gov>
       PAB219 (602)236-3544 -  Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486
                                    Pers. E-mail: rovernut@hotmail.com
Hello all,

I have a IIa '70 109 5 door, safari top, deluxe bonnet, Warn locking hubs,
original door panels, good headliner (one small tear) deluxe seats (a few
tears), dual heater, overdrive 11 passenger (rear heater takes one spot) in
good condition but with rusty frame. Everything is working except the
speedometer, cold start light, and the door locks, and is all original and
intact. I also have (new parts) almost all replacement seals, rubber window
seals, shift boots, vent seals, one swivel ball, Rancho 5000 shocks,
polyurathine bushings, folding steps, door frame repair kits, and various
other parts to restore it, including a complete (though, used, it's rust
free) frame. I have somewhere in the neighborhood of $8500 to $9000 (asking
price is $8900) invested into it. It runs great but needs valve guide seals
(puffs when you start it) which I also have the parts for. Frame is rusty,
but not going to break in half, bulkhead is good but a little rust at the
bottom door hinge (not rusted through).

Basically, it has probably 90% of everything you would need to restore it.
It runs great, and was used as my daily driver for around 9 months. 3 tires
are "fair to good" condition, and the 4th is "poor" but the spare is "new"
with only about 100 miles on it (used for 2 days while I had a tube
replaced.) Only known bad item that I don't have a replacement for is the
front U-joint, which I have just recently noticed. Also, an occasional grind
of the gears when entering 4th (synchro's starting to wear, but not "gone.")

My question is: I have been offered $8000 for the whole mess, should I take
it???

I *really* hate to sell it, (have become very attached to it) but absolutely
do *not* have time for it, and need the $ to buy a new house, and therefore
must sell, keeping is not a possibility. ;-( I've been very honest and
candid about it's condition to you, as well as the prospective buyer (in
Michigan). It's in better condition than every other 109 I've seen up close,
but I've seen *very* few others.

Dave (perplexed, but somewhat anxious to sell) Brown

I am in digest mode, so please respond directly. I have also copied to the
"mendo" list, though I no longer subscribe to it, because there are a *lot*
of very knowledgeable people on it that may be helpful in this matter.

Thanks a *great* deal, Dave (perplexed, but somewhat anxious to sell) Brown

Dave Brown - Phoenix Arizona USA 602.820.8052 Pager: 602.275.2508 #6486
offering: Books, tools, knowledge, lodging, coffee, shoulder to cry on...
 #=====#           1971 "88" IIa - "Simba"
 |___|__\___       LIC: LION B8
 | _ |   |_ |}     Just your basic trail beast.
 "(_)""""(_)"
 Other-          1970 "109" IIa        '87 Range Rover (soon 4.6 eng)
      /          Historic plates        rear Lock-Right  Bilstein shocks
      -Rovers    "Shake-n-bake"         Crane cam        Optima battery
                 aka: Shake-n-break,    OME HD springs   SSB CB radio
           & other terms of endearment  6 Hella lights   Flowmaster muffler

 Never give up your life for          #=======#         _____l___
 anything that death can take away.   |__|__|__\___    //__|__|__\___
                        -anonymous    | _|  |   |_ |}  \__ - ____ - _|}
                                      "(_)""""""(_)"      (_)    (_)

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Date: Mon, 06 Oct 1997 16:24:58 -0700
From: Matt Nelson <nelsml73@snyoneva.cc.oneonta.edu>
Subject: Re: Offer on my 109 (for sale)

If keeping your rover is an option I'd do that, I've been in a position
this year where I've had to sell a lot of posessions that were very dear
to me, at prices that were below their value in my eyes. This has really
made me unhappy and has made me decide to keep my extra rover(a series 3
88) even though I cannot give it the attention it needs right now.

Selling stuff your attached to sucks, you can get money in any number of
ways but the likelyhood of your getting a rover like you describe at the
price you've been offered for it is unlikely.  It will cost you a lot
more if you ever decide to get one again.

If there is any way you could just store it you'd be better off, rovers
are in a sellers market right now and are a good investment. as you have
all the parts necessary to repair it you may as well keep it until you
have the time and extra money to refurbish/restore it completely.

Hope this helpe you avoid the mistakes I've made, The stuff I've sold
will be very hard to replace, the money i got for it wasn't worth it,
and I had I gotten the money any other way i would be a lot happier
right now. :(

Hope this helps

Matt nelson

65 sIIa 88
70 sIIa 88
72 sIII 88

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From: "Eyres, Richard RP" <Eyres.Richard.RP@bhp.com.au>
Subject: RE: Gear boxes and Bellhousing Question
Date: Tue, 7 Oct 1997 08:32:00 +1000

 ----------
>From: Eyres, Richard RP
>To: lro@playground.sun.com
>Subject: Gear boxes and Bellhousing Question
>Date: Friday, 3 October 1997 16:11
>Advice wanted.
>The gearbox on my 1973 S3 SWB is in need of some (expensive) TLC, as it

is becoming more common for the gears to graunch >when changing up or
down, especially between 2nd and 3rd. Doesn't always do it, but it is
getting a bit worse, and occasionally

Thanks to all those who offered advice. I'll start by working through
the clutch system and see what happens. Could be a little while before I
get to it though as my (Holden)motor has suddenly turned into a 5
cylinder (approx. 20 psi on no5, others are all 120+) so it looks like
pull the head off time.  (valves all go up and down, oil in cylinder
makes no difference, no excessive crankcase pressure when running)
@#@%^^&&  There goes my 'accessory fund' (again!)
Richard

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Date: Mon, 06 Oct 1997 19:39:15 -0300
From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Diff Lockers

Matt Nelson wrote:
> Does anyone know of a source for Diff lockers other thna ARB? I am
> interested in automatic lockers for my S2a88 and do not want to deal
> with ARBs. What info do I need to know about my Diffs when asking for a
> Diff locker? Just that they are rover type diffs? Help me out I'm really
> confused
> thanks

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 10 lines)]
> thanks
> Matt Nelson
talk to Reider Racing in Detroit(their number will be in almost any US
4x4 mag. They stock TruTrack and Detroit Lockers for Land Rovers, tell
them you have rover axles with 4.71 ratios.Compared to ARB the prices
will please you.   have fun john

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Date: Mon, 06 Oct 1997 18:52:23 -0400
From: "Ryan O. Emge" <ts4@top.monad.net>
Subject: Range Rover for Sale...

-- I live in New England, and I am looking for a Range Rover from the
years 1988 to 1992, would anyone happen to be selling one? Thank you.
		

						     _------__
Ryan O. Emge  - MonadNet Tech Support -     __------------------__
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
MonadNet Corporation  E-mail: remge@monad.net | Phone: (603) 352-7619
39 Central Square     Tech Support: (603)357-1894 | Toll Free:
(800)576-1019 
Keene, NH 03431       Fax: (603)357-1267

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Date: Mon, 06 Oct 1997 18:50:22 -0700
From: matt <nelsml73@snyoneva.cc.oneonta.edu>
Subject: yet another question-hydraulics.

Has anyone any experience with automec's copper alloy brake lines and
silicone brake fluid?  Every car restorer I've talked to has said it is
a good idea when you rebuild an entire system to go with Silicone but no
one has had any experience with copper alloy lines, just stainless
steel.

As i've already got the lines and fluid I guess its a moot point but has
anyone had any problems that I should know about before I put it all
together?

thanks,
matt

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Date: Mon, 06 Oct 1997 19:51:46 -0300
From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: where's the nerd

would Jeff Berg please cotact me

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From: "K. John Wood" <jwrover@colo-net.com>
Subject: Need Help Subscribing
Date: Sun, 5 Oct 1997 14:12:37 -0600

HELP!!!

I chainged addresses and have not been able to get back on the lro series
vehicle reg. list.
Please help...A bloke from Austria sent me a letter talling me how but it
didn't seem to work!!!

Yours'
K. John Wood
Event Co- Solihull Society

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Date: Mon, 06 Oct 1997 20:43:03 -0300
From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Need Help Subscribing

K. John Wood wrote:
> HELP!!!
> I chainged addresses and have not been able to get back on the lro series
> vehicle reg. list.
> Please help...A bloke from Austria sent me a letter talling me how but it
> didn't seem to work!!!

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 12 lines)]
> K. John Wood
> Event Co- Solihull Society
John I just went through this. type in the Email box

    subscribe LRO Real-Time distribution

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From: FisherRKTX@aol.com
Date: Mon, 6 Oct 1997 20:25:41 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: re: Replacement Seats  

I was looking over my friend's J##p aftermarket seats, and the way they
mounted looked like they'd work in my Series Rover.  They're more of a racing
style bucket seat with good lumbar support (but don't recline).  They were
actually pretty comfortable once you where able to get in them (high sides).
 He got them at a 4x4 shop near SantaFe & Hampden in Denver (4 wheel part
wholesalers also has a selection out in Aurora).  They have a selection to
choose from. He purchased these after searching junk yard for anything else
that might work.  He did find some from a VW bug that would of worked with a
little fabrication on the mounts.... 

Something to watch out for though is that most won't allow access under the
seat to get at the storage box (or battery in my case).  I have the LR deluxe
set in mine, and they seem just fine to me.  I noticed that Rover's North
offers a non-genuine replacement in the deluxe style as well.  Since I'm
going through the same thing, I am trying to figure out how to mount a
anti-whiplash headrest to the bulkhead;  any ideas?  How about seat covers
(my foam is good, but the vinyl is split on uppers and base...

Chris Fisher
'73 Land Rover Series III hybrid

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Date: Mon, 06 Oct 1997 17:34:54 -0700
From: "Christopher H. Dow" <dow@thelen.org>
Subject: Re: Replacement Seats

Jim Krebs wrote:
>  The previous owner of my '62 88 had fitted some domestic bucket seats
> which are now in the landfill.  I am in search of replacement seats.  I'd
> like something approaching D90 style (high back and lumbar support).  I've
> priced new D90 seats and have almost recovered from the shock.  Are there
> used seats, Volvo, VW, etc. that will work?  Any new replacements that are
> good (I need the sliding mechanisms too, PO saw to that)?  I'd appreciate
> any advice.

I have high-back seats w/ headrests in "Caviar" cloth.  I bought them
from BP, but they are the same that BLRS advertize in LROI.  I'm very
happy with them.  They cost about $400.  Also, they just fit the way the
old seats fit (no sliding mechanism).

C

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From: FisherRKTX@aol.com
Date: Mon, 6 Oct 1997 20:50:00 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Landy vs Eugene the Jeep  

Sorry to jump into this so late, but I had another comment that I liked when
I read a four-wheeler magazine comparing the J**p to the Defender.  The thing
I liked descibing the different philosophies behind the vehicles was that
they mentioned that the Land Rover was the only manufacturer to offer a winch
option from the factory...  Too me that kind of hit the nail on the head
about the purpose of the vehicle...

BTW:  They choose the Defender as the best...

Chris Fisher

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From: Neil Sheridan <neil_seg@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: 10 Signs You've Bought a NADA Land-Rover
Date: Mon, 6 Oct 1997 21:32:30 -0400

Offered with all due apologies to the original artist (?), I thought that the 
original UK version of "10 Signs" could be amended for those of us in 
the "North American Dollar Area".   

 1. You buy specially imported, glossy magazines with pictures of 
half-naked, oiled up, muddy -- trucks.          
 2. You buy Orange Go-Jo hand cleaner by the gallon.          
 3. You can name and have on hand four or more different oil viscosities.          
 4. You swivel-head driving past every junkyard.          
 5. You go get AAA Plus membership (and use it up to their 
6 tows per year maximum).          
 6. Your insurance agent has never heard of an 88-inch 
Station Wagon.          
 7. You're applying for multiple gas credit cards.          
 8. When giving friends a lift, you always hear yourself 
say: "Smell?  What smell?"          
 9. Your friends are buying stock in gas companies.          
 10. The vehicle comes with a history, boxes of spare parts, 
and a shop manual under the seat.

Any other regional variations on the theme?

Best regards,

Neil Sheridan  
'65 88 'The Sheridan Valdez' (still looking for a better name)
Land-Ho's Rover Club 
neil_seg@ix.netcom.com

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From: "Eyres, Richard RP" <Eyres.Richard.RP@bhp.com.au>
Subject: re: Replacement Seats
Date: Tue, 7 Oct 1997 13:38:00 +1000

 ----------
>From: FisherRKTX@aol.com
>To: lro@playground.sun.com
>Subject: re: Replacement Seats
>Date: Tuesday, 7 October 1997 10:25

snip..
>Something to watch out for though is that most won't allow access under
>To: lro@playground.sun.com
the
>seat to get at the storage box (or battery in my case).  I have the LR
deluxe
>set in mine, and they seem just fine to me.  I noticed that Rover's
North
>offers a non-genuine replacement in the deluxe style as well.  Since
I'm
>going through the same thing, I am trying to figure out how to mount a
>anti-whiplash headrest to the bulkhead;  any ideas?  How about seat
covers
>(my foam is good, but the vinyl is split on uppers and base...
>Chris Fisher
>'73 Land Rover Series III hybrid

 My S3 was fitted with front seats ( high back reclining bucket type
with built in head rest) from, I believe an early Toyota Corrolla
by the PO, but have no slides, and are just bolted down. They are
comfortable and don't look out of place. The seat backs also tip forward
to give access to the small behind the seats storage area. To gain
access to the under seat locker I have cut an access hole in the front
of the seat box and fitted a drop down hinged lid. I was able to reuse
the original LR latch to hold the lid closed. This is OK for storage,
but wouldn't be much use if that's where your batteries are. I guess you
could fabricate some sort of quick release or tipping mechanism to gain
access (check out what some of the small Jap forward control van use to
access the engine etc.) For me , my steering wheel is in the 'right'
place so there is plenty of room to access the passenger side under seat
locker. Judging by your AOL address I assume you wheel is on the 'wrong'
side so I guess you'll have less room, but something may still be
possible.
Richard.

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Date: Mon, 6 Oct 1997 22:03:33 -0400 (EDT)
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Mid-Atlantic Rally

The rally this past weekend was a big success - we had 160+ vehicles - we're 
not quite sure how many, as the computer got unplugged while my wife was 
doing a save in QuattroPro and the entire spreadsheet file was, well, buggered.

Anyway, here are the winners:

The Aluminium Man Triathlon: 1st Place, Michael Boggs of Afton, VA (prizes. 
a $600 gift certificate for B. F. Goodrich tires, a $150 Rovers North gift 
certificate and a MAX Tool plus an engaved tankard).  2nd, Eric Zipkin (an 
engraved jefferson cup, $150 Rovers North g.c., a High Lift jack from DAP 
and a Triple C g.c.).  3rd, Ernie Young (a $75 Rovers North g.c, a Triple C 
g.c., and a British Pacific jerry can).

The Teeter Totter:  Bill Maniscalco, 17 seconds (an engraved cup, Rovers 
North driving lights, "Working in the Wild" from British Pacific, Rovers 
North binoculars, and an Atlantic British shirt).  Paul Prosser, 20 seconds 
(a cool Rovers North vest, RN shorts and a Land Rover University shirt).  
Alex Maiolo, 43 seconds (Atlantic British Barbour socks, Triple C and Land 
Rover Rockville shirts, a LRNA umbrella)

Most Versatile Vehicle: Herb Zipkin's 'round the world' 109 expedition.

People's Choice: "Diesel Bob" McCullough's IIB forward control.

Greatest Distance Traveled: Robert Taglienti up from Naples, Florida.

Blindfold Obstacle Course: Stuart Moore, Loftis Hitchins, Dave Childress.

Slow Race: Will Parks, Michael Mason, Paul Prosser. (all drove IIa 88's).

Coil Sprung "Feeley Meeley" Box: Jack Walter (1 1/2 out of 5).

Series "Feeley Meeley" Box: Robert Davis (6/6), Mark Garrenton (5/6).

Land Rover North America donated some *major* items for the silent auction. 
These included: a chrome A-bar for Discovery, a brush bar for a Discovery 
(both $700+ items), a roof top cargo carrier, a Warn recovery kit, fire 
extinguisher and wheel locks.  Unfortunately, due to the parsimonious nature 
of the rally participants, these high-price items went for pennies on the 
dollar.  For instance, the genuine Disco brush bar went for a mere $61 - and 
to someone who had already *destroyed* theirs.

Other items went for close to retail prices: a set of Safari Gard D-90 rock 
sliders, a set of diff guards and a rock guard.  There was spirited bidding 
on the British Pacific jerry can, the Badger Coachworks bimini top, and a 
director's chair from Land Rover Greensboro went for more than cost.

The rally organizers would like to thank the event sponsors, Land Rover 
Richmond and Land Rover North America.  Other benefactors included B. F. 
Goodrich, British Bulldog, Safari Gard, Rovers North, British Pacific, 
Atlantic British, DAP, Badger Coachworks, Land Rover Rockville, Land Rover 
Greensboro, and Bucksnort Cigars.  Thanks again, one and all.

On a side note, my '72 88 turned 200,000 miles on the way home.  Cheers

      *---"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                  | 
      |     Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |
      |   "The oldest Rover-marque club in the Americas"   |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730    |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 757-622-7054 (Day) |
      |    757-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 757-622-7056    |
      |                                                    |
      *---1972 Series III 88"-----1996 Discovery SE-7(m)---*

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From: BarrieWyLR@aol.com
Date: Mon, 6 Oct 1997 23:07:03 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Diff Lockers

Great Basin Rovvers, in Salt Lake City, put K A M air lockers on my SII 88
they seem to work fairly well.  His # is 801-486-5049.

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Date: Mon, 06 Oct 1997 23:02:08 -0600
From: "J.M. Reinan" <jreinan@lawyernet.com>
Subject: Viva Rochester!

After much research & anal retentive behavior, I installed a rebuilt
Rochester Model B onto my '64 88".  Jim Axman donated the old pot to my
cause as he is amidst the total, frame-off restoration of his 109, and
had already ordered a clean, new carb from RN.  Thanks, Jim! After
soaking the carb in cleaner for two days straight, it took a $10.00
rebuild with little or no unusual effort.

I could say that the old GM carb "replaced" the Solex, but that would be
beyond mere British understatement.  In fact, the difference between the
Rochester and the Solex is so great that I've lost (at least
temporarily) my unnatural lust for D90s.

For anyone considering a quick & dirty boost for the old 2 1/4, the
Rochester is it.  For those of you with incurable & unnatural lust for
other things, I have no reasonable suggestions.

Oh, and by the way, I used a #48 jet.  The only mods you'll need to make
include an air cleaner (get one at Pep Boys) and a reversal of the
linkage.  You'll also have to do some minor rigging on the choke cable,
since the Solex is set up differently.  In any case, it's well worth the
bother.

Jay Reinan
'64 88"
'61 Willys Utility
'62 Willys Pickup
'91 Jag XJS conv

P.S.  What do you suppose would happen if I crammed the Jag V12 motor
into the Series?

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Subject: 4000 UK Military S111s released for sale
Date: Tue, 7 Oct 97 06:05:19 -0000
From: Simon Ward-Hastelow <simon.110.v8@dial.pipex.com>

There was an interesting story in Sunday's Telegraph about the UK 
Military releasing 4000 (yes thats a four and three zeros) S111 
Landrovers.
Most of these have been acquired by a company near Lichfield in the 
midlands (Military Vehicle Spares) who regularly deal in these kind of 
acquisitions but I'm not sure if they sell direct to Joe Public.
The Director of the company is quoted as saying they already have 400 and 
expect a further 3000 by Christmas. Some of the vehicles are late models.

I'm not sure what kind of effect a mass sale of this kind will have on 
the Second-Hand values of similar LRs in the UK, they may only sell 
limited quantities over time, or even job lots to other countries or 
other governments perhaps.

Further comments were quoted from various Army Commanders criticising the 
sale, stating that it will leave them short of operational vehicles due 
to the delay in delivery of the latest XD Military Landrovers, some of 
which are not expected to ship until late 1999.

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From: DHW4U@aol.com
Date: Tue, 7 Oct 1997 01:04:56 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Viva Rochester!

you want to sell the jag ?
i just sold my rover!!!
i gave the guy my rebuilt roc.
if he installs it i will give you a holler''''

------------------------------
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Date: Tue, 07 Oct 1997 08:59:11 +0100
From: Iwan Vosloo <ivosloo@cs.up.ac.za>
Subject: Churchill tools website?

Hi all,

do any of you know whether Churchill tools have a website somewhere?  As
I understand it they made a bunch of land rover special tools. 
Actually, it would be nice to contact any company that makes land rover
special tools on the web.

- Iwan Vosloo
( 1975 SIII 88" Diesel )

------------------------------
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Date: Tue, 07 Oct 1997 03:26:05 -0400
From: David L Glaser <dlglaser@wam.umd.edu>
Subject: Re: Mid-Atlantic Rally

I wish I could have made it for fri night and Sat., but Sunday was
better than not comming at all.  I was one of the few without a Rover at
the event.  My Disco was in the shop for its 4th power steering box.  I
was tempted to take the rented Dodge Breeze off road, but I didn't want
to embarass myself.

By the way, Did anyone buy that SS A-Bar?  I didn't see anayone walk off
with it?

David Glaser

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Date: Tue, 07 Oct 1997 03:42:55 -0400
From: David L Glaser <dlglaser@wam.umd.edu>
Subject: Sightings/Mid-Atlantic

On the way back from the Mid-Atlantic I passed a few Series II/III. 
Ofcourse I waved.  though, I was in a white, rented Dodge.  Most people
waved back.  But a few looked puzzeled, they couldn't figure out why
some guy in a little white car was waving to them!  

On the way back to NY I made a few sightings.  I saw about 20 D90 wagons
lined up at the Baltimore port.  When you get out of the tunnel, not the
McHenry tunnel, the other one (895 I think) you get a clear view of the
port.  You could see hundreds of Toyotas and other vehicles lined up,
but in the corner were 2 rows of D90s.  They all looked like the Willow
Green "Diamond Plate Special," except one.  There was one that looked
very dark.  It was painted in Black, dark green, or dark blue.  It was
impossible to tell from the distance.  And the roof was not painted
white, it was black.  I wonder whos gonna get that one.  Also, I thought
LRNA was only gonna bring in 250 of them?  My dealer just got #254.  And
he says he is going to get anther 8.  It sounds to me that LR is going
to bring in as many as they can build.

I also saw a really nice red Morgan +8, with British plates and right
side steering, a red TR6, and a blue and white BSA triple.  OK, I know
its not a Rover sighting, but most LR owners are British vehicle
enthusiasts.

David Glaser

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From: Autoconv@aol.com
Date: Tue, 7 Oct 1997 03:49:32 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Diff Lockers (Reply)

Matt

We have experience in many types of diff lock for the LR vehicles and can
supply all the associated parts to fit the diffs to the IIA axle, ie, crown
wheel spacer and brg sleeves as you have 4.7 ratio imperial diffs.

We stock the ARB, Detroit Locker and Detroit Truetrac all of which have their
pro's and con's but we stock them all so we have a full range of the options
available and can offer impartial advice.

 E mail me for further info on :    autoconv@aol.com

Regards
David Ashcroft    Automatic Conversions

------------------------------
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From: Autoconv@aol.com
Date: Tue, 7 Oct 1997 03:49:34 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Churchill tools website?

Iwan

I don't know if they are on line but their phone number is :

+44 1327 704461

Regards
David Ashcroft

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Date: Tue,  7 Oct 97 08:47:22    
From: Steve Mace <steve@solwise.demon.co.uk>
Subject: RE: Leather gaiters on swivel hubs?? 

--- On 04 Oct 97 19:46:19 +0000  Lenny Warren <lenny@fof.coracle.com> wrote:

>From: lenny@fof.coracle.com (Lenny Warren)
>Hi there folks,
>Any thoughts on the leather military gaiters for the front swivel hubs??
>Are they worth it?? Are they easy to fit???

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 21 lines)]
>| Fidonet:  Lenny Warren 2:258/1.12
>| Internet: lenny@fof.coracle.com

-----------------End of Original Message-----------------
Generally I think they are a good thing but beware! I had some on my LtWt when I got it. I ran it that way for 4 years and completely forgot about them.

When I decided to redo the swivel housings I found that the gaiters were 1/3rd full of water with the consequence that the whole swivel housings, hubs, bearings etc... were covered in rust and needed completely replacing. 

The moral here seems to be to keep the gaiters well impregnated with petroleum jelly and to regularly check them for holes due to stones. If they dry out or get small holes in them then water starts to soak through and collect in the bottom.  

I have fitted new gaiters to the reconditioned housings but they were thoroughly rubbed with Vasalene and I shall make a point of rubbing it with more jelly every year to keep them supple and waterproof.

Steve

1972 SIII LtWt
1993 D90

-------------------------------------
Name: Dr Steve Mace
E-mail: steve@solwise.demon.co.uk
www: http://www.demon.co.uk/solwise/
Tel: +44 1482 473899
Fax: +44 1482 472245
Date: 07/10/97
Time: 08:47:22
-------------------------------------

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From: Franz Parzefall <franz@max.physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de>
Subject: Re: Leather gaiters on swivel hubs??
Date: Tue, 7 Oct 1997 11:23:34 +0200 (MET DST)

Steve writes:
| When I decided to redo the swivel housings I found that the gaiters were 
| 1/3rd full of water with the consequence that the whole swivel housings, 
| hubs, bearings etc... were covered in rust and needed completely replacing. 
Bah! Sounds ugly!

| The moral here seems to be to keep the gaiters well impregnated with 
| petroleum jelly and to regularly check them for holes due to stones. If 
| they dry out or get small holes in them then water starts to soak through 
| and collect in the bottom.  
I'm not sure if we talk of the same gaitors, but the ones on Brumml are 
laced together at the bottom and everything fluid between the gaitor
and the swivelball will quickly drip out. I realised this when I had
to loosen the big bolt on top of the swivelhousing to get the brakeline
off (note Brumml is a 110 and has front disk brakes). The swivel oil
quickly began to seep out...
Maybe the ones on your LtWt were put on upside down?

| I have fitted new gaiters to the reconditioned housings but they were 
| thoroughly rubbed with Vasalene and I shall make a point of rubbing it 
| with more jelly every year to keep them supple and waterproof.
Won't hurt, since they should prevent selflubrication ;-)

At least Brumml is the only LR I have seen that doesn't leak at the swivels
and 99% of the others had no gaitors.

cu,
Franz
Franz Parzefall                franz@physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de
		   http://www.physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de/~franz
       _______
      [____|\_\==
      [_-__|__|_-]      Brumml, exmil. 1989 Land Rover 110 2.5D
 ___.._(0)..._.(0)__..-
                                  

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