Land Rover Owner Message Digest Contents

[ First Message Last | Table of Contents | <- Digest -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

Send Submissions Land-Rover-Owner@Land-Rover.Team.Net

From: "Steve Stoneham" <stoneham@kos.net>
Subject: Plumbers drain pipe wrench
Date: Sun, 5 Oct 1997 09:11:57 -0400

Hi Con!
Warn wrenches I'm familiar with...
Regards,
Steve

>Regards,Con....

------------------------------

From: AKBLACKLEY@aol.com
Date: Sun, 5 Oct 1997 12:00:30 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Seats

Jim: Do you subscribe to Land Rover Owner International? There are several
companys with ads for replacement high back seats. Be warned: the cheaper
seats are just that: cheap and not worth the effort. I bought some from
Birmingham L R Center (aka Bat Fastard). These were a big disappointment and
I ended combining the new seats with the old to make a decent seat. Even
still the high back was made from plywood, thin  stuff at that, and not very
inspiring from a safety standpoint. Another company, Trakkers, not advertises
that they use steel frames. Another option would be to buy used D90 seats
from someone like Famous Four in the UK who part out and sell used items as
well as new stuff. I recently bought an excellent used speedo head and angle
drive for my Rangie from them for BR.#30
If you never ordered from the UK dont worry, its easy if you have a credit
card and are dealing with a good company.
Since you specified highback I assume you dont care about originality too
much. The later Deluxe seats from the early seventies are pretty good, well
made, but are getting hard to find in good original condition. and dont have
headrests. An article in Four Wheeler written by Jim Allen last year featured
Doug Shipmans SII hybrid. He used highback seats sourced from a VW Vanagon
(or whatever its called). Hope this helps. Cheers. Andy Blackley

------------------------------

From: AKBLACKLEY@aol.com
Date: Sun, 5 Oct 1997 12:09:35 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Weber Book

Dave: I used on of those carbs on an MGB some years ago. Ran like the
proverbial raped ape but used gas like crazy. Anyhow,  a friend lent me his
factory Weber manual which listed all the various emulsion tubes, jets etc.
As I recollect we changed something in the idle circuit and also modified the
seconary linkage to get rid of a low speed stumble and a flat spot at mid
range. Actually that carb is just too big for most four cylinder engines to
use in anything but a high performance application. Like I said the mpg was
lousy even though the car was fun to drive. I would have been better off
using larger SUs. Anyhow, the book came from Pierce in California who sell
the Weber carbs and manifold kits. Also try the Haynes Weber book. Sometimes
you can find it at the big chain book stores or through Classic Motorbooks,
etc If your stumped I can ask him if he still has it. Cheers. Andy Blackley.

------------------------------

From: "K. John Wood" <jwrover@colo-net.com>
Subject: subscribe
Date: Sun, 5 Oct 1997 11:31:16 -0600

	please subscribe jwrover@colo-net.com

------------------------------

From: "K. John Wood" <jwrover@colo-net.com>
Subject: subscribe
Date: Sun, 5 Oct 1997 11:45:33 -0600

please subscribe jwrover@colo-net.com

------------------------------

From: "S. Vels" <dko5319@vip.cybercity.dk>
Date: Sun, 5 Oct 1997 22:15:38 +0001
Subject: Re: clutch question

> From:          kelliott@intranet.ca (Keith Elliott)
> Subject:       clutch question

> question about adjusting the clutch. The new engine came to me with a clutch
> and it is really different than what I am used to, it is tougher to depress
> the pedal at the start and then when you let out the pedal the clutch

Others commented on the engagement so here's one on the the hard 
pedal.

Could it be that the engine came from a 109?. The clutch is larger on 
LWBs. When i drive my brothers 88 i almost stick my foot through the 
footwell. When i drive my 109 i can actually feel that there's a 
clutch under my foot.

Even if the engine came from a SWB the PO could have uprated the 
clutch somtime in the past.

rgds
sv/aurens
New address:
dko5319@vip.cybercity.dk

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 5 Oct 1997 17:30:24 -0400 (EDT)
From: pscales@blvl.igs.net (P.S.)
Subject: LR parts dealer near RAF Lyneham?

Hi friends,

I'll be at RAF Lyneham, near Swindon UK, for three days in late October,
then to RAF Leuchars in Scotland for a few days.  Is there a Land Rover
Series parts dealer near Lyneham or Leuchars?  Especially one that is
online?!  Please let me know!

Peter
CFB Trenton, CANADA

------------------------------

From: lenny@fof.coracle.com (Lenny Warren)
Date: 04 Oct 97 19:40:36 +0000
Subject: Swivel hub lube???

From: lenny@fof.coracle.com (Lenny Warren)
Hi there folks,

On my ser 3, the front nearside swivel hub is leaking slightly. A guy I
know is a Franchised Landy dealer mechanic, and he gave me a couple of
tubes of L-R swivel hub grease which seemingly is a modification. it's
called "one-shot" and you don't have to replace it again. I vaguely
remember one of the mags advising against it as with splash lubrication the
grease might not lube as well as the EP90.

Thing is, this mechanic says they use it on all Landy's coming into the
dealer, it IS a L-R product, and it's not really grease, more like a very
thick oil. He reckons this will cure the slight oil leak.

Any thoughts???

Catch you later,
/_Lenny_/...

*e* *-* *mail*  lenny@fof.coracle.com

... Were talking about Land-Rovers, right?
--- Terminate 5.00/Pro /*Land-Rover*/ /_Best_/ /_4x4xFAR_/
--
| Fidonet:  Lenny Warren 2:258/1.12
| Internet: lenny@fof.coracle.com

------------------------------

From: lenny@fof.coracle.com (Lenny Warren)
Date: 04 Oct 97 19:46:19 +0000
Subject: Leather gaiters on swivel hubs??

From: lenny@fof.coracle.com (Lenny Warren)
Hi there folks,

Any thoughts on the leather military gaiters for the front swivel hubs??
Are they worth it?? Are they easy to fit???

Catch you later,
/_Lenny_/...

*e* *-* *mail*  lenny@fof.coracle.com

... It's 11:56 pm. Do you know where your Land-Rover is?
--- Terminate 5.00/Pro /*Land-Rover*/ /_Best_/ /_4x4xFAR_/
--
| Fidonet:  Lenny Warren 2:258/1.12
| Internet: lenny@fof.coracle.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 05 Oct 1997 19:23:19 -0400
From: Dennis Hall <beeman@gte.net>
Subject: steering box

If you managed to get it out the rebuild should be a snap! The only seal 
is an "O" ring and paper makes a great gasket for the cover. The biggest 
trouble is getting all the bearings(make sure you don't loose any) back 
in. On the big bearings (and little ones also) I just use a bunch of 
grease to hold them in place. Good luck!

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 05 Oct 1997 19:50:57 -0400
From: Brett Storey <brstore@ibm.net>
Subject: Field repairs

G’day all

I had a little incident out in the woods yesterday when I went
off-roading with a couple of friend. 

I have been having a bit of clutch trouble for a while now, the slave
cylinders been acting up. But it still worked so why muck with it till
it becomes a real problem? Well, as I was about to descend a fairly
steep hill in deep sand, it became a real problem.

I was in second low and as I released the clutch peddle after shifting
down into first I realised there was next to no pressure on the peddle.
I then tried to depress the clutch peddle again but to my horror found
it to be rock hard. It would not budge, even with two feet stomping down
hard. In gear and out of gear made no difference. The clutch was
disengaged and I wasn’t going anywhere. I didn’t like the looks of this.

My friends Larry Berti and Tom Tollefson gave me a push down the hill as
the sand was keeping me from rolling. Once down, there was nothing for
it but to remove the slave cyl. and see if it could be freed up. It came
off easily enough but when I tried to remove the piston it was stuck
fast. Three years ago we had the same problem with another Rover and
what we did then was to use a 12v tire pump to force the piston out.
Worked like a charm then, so...

Tom dug out his pump. I took a little rubber washer from an CB radio
mount to use as a seal, but when we tried to pressurize the cyl.,
nothing happened. The poor pump was straining away but it just couldn’t
pop out the piston. We then drove the piston farther into the cyl. with
a hammer and punch, oiled up the cyl. and put the air to it again. The
piston popped right out this time.

I cleaned up the cyl. bore as best I could with a bit of brake cleaner,
coated it with clutch fluid and reassembled. The piston would not move.
There was just too much grunge built up on the cyl. wall. We used the
pump to pop out the piston again and then proceeded to re-clean the
bore. Nobody had any sand paper but noticing all the sand under foot, I
poured a bit into the cyl, poked my finger in and honed the bore to a
nice smooth finish. We cleaned it again, re-lubed, and put it back
together. Worked like new. I refit the unit, we bleed the system and its
run faultlessly since. 

It always feels good to repair the Rover but a repair out in the bush is
doubly special. And when you can get home again under your own power, it
makes the trip that much better.

Brett

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 5 Oct 1997 19:09:53 -0500 (EST)
From: David Scheidt <david@math.earlham.edu>
Subject: Re: Weber Book

On Sun, 5 Oct 1997 AKBLACKLEY@aol.com wrote:

> Dave: I used on of those carbs on an MGB some years ago. Ran like the
> proverbial raped ape but used gas like crazy. Anyhow,  a friend lent me his
> factory Weber manual which listed all the various emulsion tubes, jets etc.
> As I recollect we changed something in the idle circuit and also modified the
> seconary linkage to get rid of a low speed stumble and a flat spot at mid
> range. Actually that carb is just too big for most four cylinder engines to
> use in anything but a high performance application. Like I said the mpg was

The PO, who is responsible for this, is a bit of a speed nut.  He,
inexplicably, carried this over to the Land-Rover.  When he built the
engine, he blew an essentially new block out .030, put a 2.5L cam in it,
and the pierce manifold/2bbl weber and exhaust headers.  I am very
impressed with the power it generates.  It does better than 80mph (not
sure how much more, speedo only goes to 75). You would be a nut to do
that, but you can.  There seems to be as much power at 1000rpms as a stock
motor.   As for milage:  the 2400 mile from LA to chicago used between 130
and 140 U.S. gallons, which is between 17 and 18 mph gallon--much much
worse in the mountains!  If I cruise above about 62 (which is the point
the secondary opens) the milage falls to about 12-4.  In city driving,
which I haven't done that much of, I get about 14.  My complaints about
the carb are: 1) the flat spot when the secondary opens.  I suspect that
some adjustment to the linkage and to the secondary jetting will make this
better, even if it won't eliminate it.  2)  It is loud.  I can hear it
over my tires, which is saying a lot.  I don't know if there is anything
that can be done about this.  Perhaps going back to the oil bath filter?
Since any tire that I replace the current ones with will be much much
quiter, this will get more annoying.   
3)  I am concerned about how this is going to run during the winter.  When
it is slightly chilly, it seems to stumble a bit until the temp. gague
reads 100F (and requires the choke longer than that.).   I suspect this
behavior will not improve when the tempature goes even lower.  I am also
concerned about icing.  there is no preheating of intake air, and the carb
is pretty well isolated from the exhaust manifold.  Is this a justifable
concern, and what can be done?   

> lousy even though the car was fun to drive. I would have been better off
> using larger SUs. Anyhow, the book came from Pierce in California who sell
> the Weber carbs and manifold kits. Also try the Haynes Weber book. Sometimes
> you can find it at the big chain book stores or through Classic Motorbooks,
> etc If your stumped I can ask him if he still has it. Cheers. Andy Blackley.
> range. Actually that carb is just too big for most four cylinder engines to

I know I can get a copy of the haynes manual.  I didn't know if it was any
good?  I will try pierce then (i have one of their manifolds, should have
thought to ask them.)

thanks,

David

--------
David_Scheidt@math.earlham.edu

yip yip yip yap yap yak yap yip *BANG*  -- no terrier

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 05 Oct 1997 21:46:54 -0700
From: "Con P. Seitl" <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Field repairs

Brett Storey wrote:
> G’day all
> I had a little incident out in the woods yesterday when I went
> off-roading with a couple of friend.
> I have been having a bit of clutch trouble for a while now, the slave
> cylinders been acting up. But it still worked so why muck with it till

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 49 lines)]
> makes the trip that much better.
> Brett

Amen!  Try fixing one of those new fangled machines, with the computer 
modules and all the other garbage on them. That's why I like the Series!

Con Seitl
1973 III 88 "Pig"

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 05 Oct 1997 22:08:17 -0700
From: "Con P. Seitl" <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Reverse Gear Problem et al

Found out the problem with the tranny.  With the help of a friend we 
removed the selector forks and peered into the nest. Turns out the 
reverse gear has a few nasty little bits missing from the tops of three 
or four teeth. All else at this moment looks OK. Later this week when I 
sneak out to the garage I'll start taking it apart. Thanks to all those 
with their helpful hints and ideas.

Con Seitl
1973 III 88 "Pig"

------------------------------

From: "Eyres, Richard RP" <Eyres.Richard.RP@bhp.com.au>
Subject: RE: Replacement Seats
Date: Mon, 6 Oct 1997 15:29:00 +1000

Jim
>From memory, in the UK the front seats from a Volvo 340 used to be a
popular fitment, but I couldn't guess how available they would be in
Denver. Here in NZ they're about a common as rocking horse droppings. My
S3 was fitted with front seats from, I believe an early Toyota Corrolla
by the PO, but have no slides, and are just bolted down.
Richard.
 ----------
>From: krebsfam@mail.iex.net
>To: lro@playground.sun.com
>Subject: Replacement Seats
>Date: Sunday, 5 October 1997 01:48

 >The previous owner of my '62 88 had fitted some domestic bucket seats
>which are now in the landfill.  I am in search of replacement seats.
I'd
>like something approaching D90 style (high back and lumbar support).
I've
>priced new D90 seats and have almost recovered from the shock.  Are
there
>used seats, Volvo, VW, etc. that will work?  Any new replacements that
are
>good (I need the sliding mechanisms too, PO saw to that)?  I'd
appreciate
>any advice.
>Jim Krebs
>Denver, CO
>'62 88 (in pieces, in process)
>'66 109 daily driver

------------------------------

From: AKBLACKLEY@aol.com
Date: Mon, 6 Oct 1997 00:00:34 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Weber carb

Dave: As I recall my mechanic friend (who does the "difficult" work when I
cant ) changed the lever on the secondary throttles so that it began to open
early and so overlap the the primary sooner than the standard setup. This
would "trick" the second emulsion tube as I recollect by drawing air through
the second venturi and thus start the tube filling sooner. My recolection
gets dimmer as time passes tho'. I did that stuff 5 years ago. This combined
with a mechanical only advance, and some advancement on the timing, all but
eliminated the mid range flat spot.
The concern about winter driving is legimate. I used my MG as a daily driver
and it gets quite cold here in NE Ohio. The lack of a heated manifold
definately causes drivability problems in the northern climes. I never kept
the car long enough to solve that problem (I sold it in '93 to buy my first,
long sought Land Rover SIIA). It may be possible to built some sort of hot
spot using sheet metal off of the box cast into stock LR exhaust manifold to
convey heat (by convection?) to the bottom of the intake mainfold. It could
be used in the winter and removed in nice weather. Did you check out the SU
conversion in the last issue of LROI? They use a cast iron manifold  with a
heated water passage. I am leery of the SU HS6 carb they used however due to
the side mount float. The later HS6 is better as the float is under the carb
body and surrounds the main jet which lessens the chance for problems at odd
angles off road. As far a noise goes the use of the oil bath and hose would
probably make it quieter although more restrictive. A traditional Detroit
style air cleaner assembly with a provision for a heat riser tube, which
would also aid in winter driving, would both make it quieter and if big
enough not impede the air flow. Not to mention being easier to find filters
for.  I need to rig some kind of thing like this on my Holley Projection
setup on my 83 RR. Currently I am running a 14 inch open air cleaner with a
pre filter wrap which also "whooses" on full throttle.. When I get time to
cruise the local bone yard that is. Cheers. Andy Blackley 

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 5 Oct 1997 23:48:20 -0500 (EST)
From: David Scheidt <david@math.earlham.edu>
Subject: Re: Weber carb

On Mon, 6 Oct 1997 AKBLACKLEY@aol.com wrote:

> Dave: As I recall my mechanic friend (who does the "difficult" work when I
> cant ) changed the lever on the secondary throttles so that it began to open
> early and so overlap the the primary sooner than the standard setup. This
> would "trick" the second emulsion tube as I recollect by drawing air through
> the second venturi and thus start the tube filling sooner. My recolection

This is the sort of thing that  I had been thinking about.  I haven't had
a chance to have a really good look at things, though.  The Land-Rover is
currently living in a differrent state (the result of an owner-caused
failure, the lack of somewhre to get parts at 6pm on a saturday, and
having to be at the job that supports the Land-Rover the next day), so I
haven't had a good look at the carb and manifolds in a bit. 

> gets dimmer as time passes tho'. I did that stuff 5 years ago. This combined
> with a mechanical only advance, and some advancement on the timing, all but
> eliminated the mid range flat spot.

I take this to mean that you removed the vaccum-driven timing advance? I
would think that this would cause some drivability problems at less than
full throtlle.

> The concern about winter driving is legimate. I used my MG as a daily driver
> and it gets quite cold here in NE Ohio. The lack of a heated manifold
> definately causes drivability problems in the northern climes. I never kept
> the car long enough to solve that problem (I sold it in '93 to buy my first,
> long sought Land Rover SIIA). It may be possible to built some sort of hot
> spot using sheet metal off of the box cast into stock LR exhaust manifold to
> convey heat (by convection?) to the bottom of the intake mainfold. It could
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 10 lines)]
> be used in the winter and removed in nice weather. Did you check out the SU
> conversion in the last issue of LROI? They use a cast iron manifold  with a

Don't have the stock exhaust manifold --> no box.  I guess that I can work
some way of attaching a chimmeny to tubular stuff i have.  I don't think I
want to weld them.  Was the LROi article the one about hte people who do
things to cylinder heads?  (My PO must not have known they existed, or
else I think I would have one...)  If I were going to change the carb it
would be to go back to the solex/zenith/1bbl webber arrangement.  

David 

--------
David_Scheidt@math.earlham.edu

yip yip yip yap yap yak yap yip *BANG*  -- no terrier

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 05 Oct 1997 19:16:50 -1000
From: "Mauna Kea Summit Adventures (Pat Wright)" <parsaf@ilhawaii.net>
Subject: subscribe

please subscribe me
Mauna Kea Summit Adventures
p.o.box 9027 dept WWW
Kailua, Kona, Hawaii 
U.S.A.          96745

reservations: 808-322-2366
group sales : 808-322-1670
FAX         : 808-322-1670
Email       : parsaf@maunakea.com
WWW         : http://maunakea.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 06 Oct 1997 10:11:48 +0100
From: Iwan Vosloo <ivosloo@cs.up.ac.za>
Subject: 2.25 Diesel dist pump timing

Hi all,

I know this subject has been handled a few times, but I'm struggling
with mine now and need a few pointers.  I need to set the dist pump
timing on my little diesel.  It has the later type dist pump which does
not have the inspection window - you're supposed to set it using some
(unobtainable) special tool.

But I guess trial and error would do too.  So this is what I want to
do.  I need to know which way to turn the thing when the smoke looks
like what :-). Also:  when I move it in such a trial and error
iteration, how far should I move it for it to make a visible
difference?  (This feels like something I should have figured out long
ago, but I just can't seem to get it right.)

- Iwan Vosloo
( 1975 SIII 88" Diesel )

------------------------------

  END OF * LIST DIGEST 
 Input:  messages 19 lines 817 [forwarded 113 whitespace 151]
 Output: lines 612 [content 359  forwarded 70 (cut  43) whitespace 135]

This has been the last portion of the lro-digest-ltd

If you would like to unsubscribe from this service contact
Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net and request 'unsubscribe lro-digest-ltd'

The lro-digest-ltd is the same content as the lro-digest, but it is split
into a number of smaller pieces which are limited in size to 400 lines.

This is to allow access by users whose mail servers may not allow larger
messages (typicaly over 30KB).

Today's multipart digest is composed of the following portions:

   lines   chars	portions

Back	Forward
Photos & text Copyright 1990-2011 Bill Caloccia, All rights reserved. Digest Messages Copyright 1990-2011 by the original poster or/and Bill Caloccia, All rights reserved.