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1 CIrvin1258@aol.com 21Re: Fairey OD failure ugh!
2 Bernd Jonas [Bernd.Jonas17Reverse Gear Problems
3 "Con P. Seitl" [seitl@ns26Re: Reverse Gear Problems
4 jfhess@wheel.dcn.davis.c17Dormobile for sale?
5 krebsfam@mail.iex.net (J17Replacement Seats
6 "William L. Leacock" [wl15Webber twin choke
7 "William L. Leacock" [wl23reverse noise
8 "Con P. Seitl" [seitl@ns11Subscribing
9 David Scheidt [david@mat35Re: Webber twin choke
10 "Con P. Seitl" [seitl@ns14Re: No LR content :Plumbers drain pipe wrench
11 scooper@scooper.seanet.c14Steering box


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From: CIrvin1258@aol.com
Date: Sat, 4 Oct 1997 07:40:09 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Fairey OD failure  ugh!

Funny you should mention this subject...

Just the other day, my overdrive decided to say "F&$k you!", while I was
driving out to the desert, to do a little off-roading, and some target
shooting.

Luckily with mine, it's the bearings that are going, and when it's
dis-engaged, there's no noise - yet.

Hopefully, I'll make it to a friends' place tomorrow, and remove it, and put
the gear back in.

Hopefully moreso, I'll be able to find the bearings locally!

Charles

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Date: Sat, 04 Oct 1997 13:56:00 +0100
From: Bernd Jonas <Bernd.Jonas@munich.netsurf.de>
Subject: Reverse Gear Problems

Hi Alan!
Nice to read about another guy with gearbox problems.
My LR88 SIII gearbox is on the workdesk, too ( 3/4 Shift).
I think if you have put out your box itīs always better to look for
everything that could make problems in the next time.
Itīs rather easy if you have the partsbook for LR.

The story of your skateboard-trolly is really funny! Just try a
Snakeboard for better driving your box.

Bye, hope problems will be solved soon,
BERND

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Date: Sat, 04 Oct 1997 09:32:41 -0700
From: "Con P. Seitl" <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Reverse Gear Problems

Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com wrote:
> >From the sound of it, I'd almost suspect a contact problem between the
> inside of the housing and the reverse idler gear, or a buggered reverse
> idler gear bearing.
> Dumb question: Are you sure the reverse shifter fork is adjusted right and
> not hauling the gear back too far (like into  the casting)?

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 14 lines)]
> enough to eat metal, just make noise.
>                     aj"Speculation R Us"r

Closer inspection will probabably give up some clues, but where to start 
without creating new ones is the key. I think if I let it sit in the 
wheel-barrow and stare at it long enough it will start to talk to me. 
Domestic chores keep me from going at it full tilt, got relatives coming 
and the missus would rather I finish the guest room than fix the Rover. I 
would rather fix the transmission and give them the Howard Johnson 
number, but you didn't hear that from me ;->

Con Seitl
1973 III 88 "Pig"

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From: jfhess@wheel.dcn.davis.ca.us
Date: Sat, 4 Oct 1997 08:38:26 -0700
Subject: Dormobile for sale?

Hi,

does anyone know anything about a LR dormie for sale in pennsylvania?  what
about anywhere else (in the USA preferably)

thanks,

John F Hess                       1968 Land Rover Dormobile "Elvis"
jfhess@wheel.dcn.davis.ca.us      1984 Mazda GLC "Mazda box"
dormobile homepage:               1960 swb pu "Stubby" (actually Katherine's)
http://wheel.dcn.davis.ca.us/~jfhess/homepage.html

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Date: Sat, 4 Oct 1997 09:48:24 -0600
From: krebsfam@mail.iex.net (Jim Krebs)
Subject: Replacement Seats

 The previous owner of my '62 88 had fitted some domestic bucket seats
which are now in the landfill.  I am in search of replacement seats.  I'd
like something approaching D90 style (high back and lumbar support).  I've
priced new D90 seats and have almost recovered from the shock.  Are there
used seats, Volvo, VW, etc. that will work?  Any new replacements that are
good (I need the sliding mechanisms too, PO saw to that)?  I'd appreciate
any advice.

Jim Krebs
Denver, CO
'62 88 (in pieces, in process)
'66 109 daily driver

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Date: Sat, 4 Oct 1997 18:41:18 -0400 (EDT)
From: "William L. Leacock" <wleacock@pipeline.com>
Subject: Webber twin choke

 I have a twin choke Webber carburretor, 27 / 2? fitted to a 2.25 litre
petrol engine. I have difficulty in getting it to run smoothly at low rpm.
The exhaust note sounds like the engine is misfiring, could be unburnt fuel
burning in the exhaust or something like that, I have checked all the plugs,
even replaced them all also, no change. The carb is one size fits all type.
Anybody have any usefull information on this type of carb on the LR ? Is it
necessary to change the jets etc ? The engine ran sweetly on single choke
carburretor before the change.
Bill Leacock	Limey in exile
89 RR; 67 - 109 and  early 88.

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Date: Sat, 4 Oct 1997 18:47:26 -0400 (EDT)
From: "William L. Leacock" <wleacock@pipeline.com>
Subject: reverse noise

 How about this for a SIII trans problem. Works great in all forward gears, 
but reverse gives a distinct clinking type of noise. The faster you go 
the faster the noise goes. Almost sounds like a missing tooth on a gear 
but removal of the gear oils produced no teeth or even filings. Took 
inspection plates off the top and nothing amiss. Now the whole 
transmission sits in a wheel-barrow in the garage. What next?

Con Seitl
1973 III 88 "Pig"
 Con, the reverse gear arrangement in a series 3 is different to a series 2,
there is a separate shaft for the reverse gear, the reverse gear has a brass
bush which is prone to wear, the early ones had problems with the shaft and
bearing arrangement. To examine the set up requires pumlling the box apart.
Whilst you are at it I recomend changing the 2nd / 3 rd gear brass bush on
the mainshaft. These also wear and are the primary cause f gearboxes jumping
out of third and second gears. They are easy to replace while the box is out.
Bill Leacock	Limey in exile
89 RR; 67 - 109 and  early 88.

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Date: Sat, 04 Oct 1997 21:25:33 -0700
From: "Con P. Seitl" <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Subscribing

Having trouble subscribing a friend to the list. When I tell the Major 
the address of the friend I get server trouble and no DNS valid entry. 
Any ideas?

Con Seitl
1973 III 88 "Pig"

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Date: Sat, 4 Oct 1997 19:34:32 -0500 (EST)
From: David Scheidt <david@math.earlham.edu>
Subject: Re: Webber twin choke

On Sat, 4 Oct 1997, William L. Leacock wrote:

>  I have a twin choke Webber carburretor, 27 / 2? fitted to a 2.25 litre
> petrol engine. I have difficulty in getting it to run smoothly at low rpm.
> The exhaust note sounds like the engine is misfiring, could be unburnt fuel
> burning in the exhaust or something like that, I have checked all the plugs,
> even replaced them all also, no change. The carb is one size fits all type.
> Anybody have any usefull information on this type of carb on the LR ? Is it
> necessary to change the jets etc ? The engine ran sweetly on single choke
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 11 lines)]
> Bill Leacock	Limey in exile
> 89 RR; 67 - 109 and  early 88.

I have a 3632DGV on my 2 1/4,  fitted by the PO.  It has (I think, I am
not quite sure) 170 primary and 150 secondary jets.  These work fine at
less than about 6,000 feet.  Above that, they are way too rich.  Climbing
Vail pass required the use of first gear.  Weber seems to provide their
generic carbs with jets that much too lean for any application.  If you
have reasonable jets, you should be able to kill the engine by turning
the idle mixture screw to either extreme.  

Does anyone have a manual, or know where I can get one, for this carb?  I
would like to have a copy.

David

--------
David_Scheidt@math.earlham.edu

yip yip yip yap yap yak yap yip *BANG*  -- no terrier

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Date: Sat, 04 Oct 1997 21:57:21 -0700
From: "Con P. Seitl" <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: No LR content :Plumbers drain pipe wrench

Steve Stoneham wrote:
> Just curious...what's a "plumbers drain pipe wrench"...I happen to be a
> plumber and wondered if I should have one?
> Steve Stoneham
> 61 88" pickup

Hi Steve!  Don't you mean a plumber's wench?

Regards Con.....

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Date: Sat, 4 Oct 1997 20:17:36 -0700 (PDT)
From: scooper@scooper.seanet.com (John & Sandy Cooper)
Subject: Steering box

I thought since cleaning the mud shields I would remove and rebuild the
steering box.  It has leaked quite a bit since we purchased it in 1977.  I
think it was run dry a few times also.  Well, the job took 7 hours just to
remove.  The main sticking point were the tie rod ends, especially the one
nearest the steering box.  I just decided to unscrew the rod from the end
and pull out the whole assembly with the tie rod end still on (it worked).  
Is rebuilding the box a home job or is it best left to a shop?  What is the
best stuff to seal the housing when finished?
Thanks, John Cooper 1969 11a

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