[ First Message Last | Table of Contents | <- Digest -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
| msg | Sender | lines | Subject |
| 1 | Hank Rutherford [ruthrfr | 28 | Straight steering |
| 2 | BarrieWyLR@aol.com | 10 | Re: Mysterious noise |
| 3 | rover@pinn.net (Alexande | 30 | Mysterious noise |
| 4 | Mcd0123@aol.com | 7 | Re: Austin?? |
| 5 | scooper@scooper.seanet.c | 11 | 1st valve adjust |
| 6 | Brian Cramer [defender@u | 27 | Re: NOT A MISPRINT! |
| 7 | Solihull@aol.com | 34 | Re: Re: Getting it straight |
| 8 | Solihull@aol.com | 38 | Re: 1st valve adjust |
| 9 | David Cockey [dcockey@ti | 17 | SI Club address |
| 10 | Franz Parzefall [franz@m | 24 | Re: Austin Gipsy |
| 11 | Lloyd Allison [lloyd@cs. | 9 | re Austin 4x4 (gipsy) |
| 12 | Franz Parzefall [franz@m | 23 | Re: Speedee Sleeve |
Date: Sun, 28 Sep 1997 11:14:31 -0400 (EDT)
From: Hank Rutherford <ruthrfrd@borg.com>
Subject: Straight steering
Several days ago, someone wrote:
was about 30 degrees off center when driving straight. Where did I go
wrong?... >>
If the wheel was straight before the tierod work, then recentering the
steering should be a matter of readjustment of the steering linkages. Moving
the steering wheel on the splines should be the FIRST thing to check, but
the LAST thing to adjust. The logic behind this is, if the steering box
isn't centered, then you may not get full lock in one direction - the hub
will never reach the stop bolt. If the box is off center, relative to the
steering wheel, (regardless of where the tires are pointing) the box
internals may reach their limit before the actual steering components do.
Check the manual, LR did a good job of illustrating the PROPER location of
steering box drop arm, and relay arm when pointing straight ahead. And
steering box center is easy to find when the steering links are disconnected
- note the steering wheel position at full left lock, do the same at full
right lock, gearbox center is midway between these two points. Mike Johnson
and I ran across this last summer, and it made quite a difference. No doubt
that in the life of your vehicle, these components have been apart, and
there is a good possibility that things have been screwed up!
Just another opinion,
Ruthrfrd@borg.com
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]From: BarrieWyLR@aol.com Date: Sun, 28 Sep 1997 11:36:59 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: Mysterious noise Have you checked the u-joints on the front driveshaft? Be Happy, Barrie 60 SII88 Rugbeater ------------------------------[ <- Message 3 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970929 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sun, 28 Sep 1997 12:53:52 -0400 (EDT)
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Mysterious noise
Pete Kurzman is haveing some problems with noise from the front end.
>It goes up in pitch...When I drove it with the hubs unlocked the noise is
>not there.
It's the front prop shaft. Most do *not* have a zerk fitting on the splines
of the shaft, only a bolt in the hole. (This supposedly keeps the owner
from 'over-lubricating' the shaft at each lube. As the front shaft gets
shorter when the drive line is shocked - as opposed to the rear shaft
getting longer - it causes "hydraulising" which can blow the joint apart.)
The splines can be taken apart, cleaned and lubricated. Be cautious,
though, there is this toothed fiber washer that keeps the grease in and
contaminants out. It is perhaps the one and only part *unavailable anywhere
at any price*. If it tears, as mine did, super-glue it back together. Cheers
*---"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
| A. P. (Sandy) Grice |
| Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd. |
| "The oldest Rover-marque club in the Americas" |
| 1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730 |
| E-mail: rover@pinn.net Phone: 757-622-7054 (Day) |
| 757-423-4898 (Evenings) FAX: 757-622-7056 |
| |
*---1972 Series III 88"-----1996 Discovery SE-7(m)---*
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]From: Mcd0123@aol.com Date: Sun, 28 Sep 1997 16:57:50 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: Austin?? unsubscribe lro ------------------------------[ <- Message 5 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970929 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sun, 28 Sep 1997 15:59:54 -0700 (PDT) From: scooper@scooper.seanet.com (John & Sandy Cooper) Subject: 1st valve adjust Hello all, I am about to embark on my first valve adjustment. If you all have any good advice or tips to make the job go smoothly, please feel free to donate your opinions! I have a 2 1/4 litre series rig of 1969 vintage, still with the hand crank for emergency starts. Thanks, John Cooper 1969 11a ------------------------------[ <- Message 6 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970929 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sun, 28 Sep 1997 18:50:29 -0400 From: Brian Cramer <defender@uscom.com> Subject: Re: NOT A MISPRINT! Charlie Hughes, President of LRNA, owns D110 #1. His wife owns D90 #1. At 11:48 PM 9/27/97 -0400, you wrote: >James Pappas wrote: >> How `bout a 1997 NAS D90SW in.... MONZA RED????!!!! Yep! NOT a misprint. >> 8500 miles. W/Air conditioning. > [ truncated by lro-lite (was 6 lines)] >> 8500 miles. W/Air conditioning. >> LRNA prototype... [ truncated by list-digester (was 25 lines)] >up. >David Glaser Cheers, Brian Cramer (888)434-4678 office (609)665-4451 office fax (609)273-9708 home '94 D90 (#1251) '90 RR County '70 IIa Lightweight ------------------------------[ <- Message 7 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970929 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Solihull@aol.com Date: Sun, 28 Sep 1997 21:20:14 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: Re: Getting it straight >>Take off the horn button, unbolt the big (1" I think) bolt in there, pull off >>the steering wheel and reset it on the column more to your liking. But if you do that, you'll have more steering travel on one direction, than the other, plus the steering box will have to go past it's old center, wher it spent most of it's life, and may have extra play there. Pleeeze! Center your steering wheel, by rotating the track rod from the steering box to the relay, or the one from the relay to the appropriate swivel ball. The long track rod is for setting toe in. Well and truly soak the lock bolts on the rods at both ends with marvel mystery oil, knock-r-loose, WD40, dexron, what have you. Then loosen the nut and bolt on the clamp. The rod should rotate with a little coaxing, or maybe some vice grips or slip-joint pliers. The latter named rod is easier to get at. Cheers!! John Dillingham near Canton, GA KF4NAS LROA #1095 73 s3 swb 25902676b DD "Pansy" 72 s3 swb 25900502a rusted, in suspended animation Looking for a P5 project, well, OK, or a P6 or another SD1 Vintage Rover Service, since 1994, where we say: Land Rovers for Agriculture! Land Rovers for Industry! Land Rovers for Recreation! Land Rovers forever!! D.V. ------------------------------[ <- Message 8 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970929 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Solihull@aol.com Date: Sun, 28 Sep 1997 21:34:38 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: 1st valve adjust OooKay, take out the hand crank. You'll need it. First remove all your spark plugs. Make sure you know which wire goes where. The drill I am going to give you does not require you to remove the distributor cap. The plugs are out, the valve cover gasket is off, cleaned and the new gasket is glued on and waiting for the glue to set, right? Insert the hand crank. Unless you're real tall, get a friend to turn it for you while you watch the rockers open and close. I'm 6' and can't see all of 'em. Use the sum of nine method. When number one valve, which is the exhaust valve for the frontmost cylinder, also known as number one, is opened by it's rocker, adjust the number eight valve, which is the exhaust valve for the cylinder nearest your knees while driving, also known as number four. Get the idea? If the valves are numbered one through eight, adjust the one whose number adds to nine with the one that is opened. I go straight down the line, not regarding how many times I have to rotate the crankshaft, but if you have a *really* good memory, take 'em as they open. The gap is ten thousandths. Try to be consistent. When you have a chance, get someone to show you how a feeler blade feels when dragged through a proper clearance. You'll do fine. Cheers!! John Dillingham near Canton, GA KF4NAS LROA #1095 73 s3 swb 25902676b DD "Pansy" 72 s3 swb 25900502a rusted, in suspended animation Looking for a P5 project, well, OK, or a P6 or another SD1 Vintage Rover Service, since 1994, where we say: Land Rovers for Agriculture! Land Rovers for Industry! Land Rovers for Recreation! Land Rovers forever!! D.V. ------------------------------[ <- Message 9 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970929 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sun, 28 Sep 1997 23:00:59 -0400 From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com> Subject: SI Club address For info on SI Club membership , contact the membership secretary at: 12 Black Lawn Gillingham, Dorset, SP8 4SD England For whatever reason they don't publish dues info in the newsletter. My recollection is that membership for overseas is around 21#/year to join, 19#/year for renewal. The newsletter is essential if you're restoring a SI. Regards, David Cockey ------------------------------[ <- Message 10 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970929 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Franz Parzefall <franz@max.physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de>
Subject: Re: Austin Gipsy
Date: Mon, 29 Sep 1997 08:28:14 +0200 (MET DST)
Ned writes:
| If you really want one, I know where there is a heap of Austin Gipsy
| derelicts (in Iceland). There was an article about them in one of the rags,
| LROI, I believe.
You needn't go there. I know one 15km from where I live (Southern Germany), too.
I first confused it with a SI but some list members pointed that out to me about
1/2 a year ago. Looks like it may be for sale. It just sits in the back yard of
a transport company.
cu,
Franz
Franz Parzefall franz@physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de
http://www.physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de/~franz
_______
[____|\_\==
[_-__|__|_-] Brumml, exmil. 1989 Land Rover 110 2.5D
___.._(0)..._.(0)__..-
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]Date: Mon, 29 Sep 1997 19:06:37 +1000 (EST) From: Lloyd Allison <lloyd@cs.monash.edu.au> Subject: re Austin 4x4 (gipsy) http://www.sofcom.com.au/4WD/Austin/Gipsy.html has a couple of pictures and some spec's Lloyd ------------------------------[ <- Message 12 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970929 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Franz Parzefall <franz@max.physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de> Subject: Re: Speedee Sleeve Date: Mon, 29 Sep 1997 11:26:11 +0200 (MET DST) Some days ago Andy told us about SKF speedi sleeves: | I was asked on hte CSO list to provide information on hte subject of "speedee | sleeves", since this may also interest Series owners I am cross posting it. | The "Speedee Sleeve" is a stainless steel sleeve, very thin. made to close | tolerences, and coming in a wide range of diameters, to be press fit or super | locktited on any shaft showing wear to restore oil seal function.They are | made by CR Services (formerly Chicago Rawhide), a division of SKF, Inc. the | bearing makers. I found them on the SKF website at http://skfwww01.skf.se/ . Choose the search button and search for speedi sleve (requires java and javascript). cu, Franz Franz Parzefall franz@physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de http://www.physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de/~franz ------------------------------[ <- Message 13 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970929 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
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