Land Rover Owner Message Digest Contents


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The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

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1 NADdMD@aol.com 19Re: Hub nut spanners
2 Mike Johnson [johnsonm@b29Lumination info // Shipping US
3 Mike Johnson [johnsonm@b20Re: An alternator that fits????
4 "Paul Gussack" [pcg@tenn11Clean canvas
5 "Spencer K. C. Norcross"49Re: Landy vs Eugene the Jeep
6 Ian Otty [imo@kerridge.c38re:LR vs Jeep - Jim Allen
7 jimallen@onlinecol.com (40Re: Odds & ends
8 Rob Dennis [RobD@UnitedP47RE: Lumination info // Shipping US
9 Rob Dennis [RobD@UnitedP22RE: An alternator that fits????
10 jimallen@onlinecol.com (22Re: Landy vs Eugene the Jeep
11 Ray Harder [ccray@showme17Re: Steering woes
12 Allan Smith [smitha@cand23torque wrench
13 "EDWARD R. TREANOR II" [17Flasher Wiring
14 Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lo18Re: Flasher Wiring
15 "Christopher H. Dow" [do53Re: Flasher Wiring
16 Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lo15Re: Clean canvas
17 Neil Sheridan [neil_seg@19Fore! ("Purpose-built" Landy Golf-carts?)
18 Solihull@aol.com 22Fuel tank floats, was"Fore!"
19 NADdMD@aol.com 16Re: Clean canvas
20 Russ Wilson [rwilson@usa23Austin??
21 Lodelane@aol.com 15Re: Fore! ("Purpose-built" Landy Golf-carts?)
22 scooper@scooper.seanet.c12champagne fuel sender
23 QROVER80@aol.com 10Re: Austin??
24 CIrvin1258@aol.com 16Re: Luminition info
25 The Bickertons [Bickerto54Hub nuts, Heeps etc.
26 Dixon Kenner [dkenner@nr12Re: Austin??
27 Paul Quin [Paul_Quin@pml23Seriea II Heater Question
28 ASFCO@worldnet.att.net 15Series heated windscreens
29 pscales@blvl.igs.net (P.15Austin 4x4
30 Rob Dennis [RobD@UnitedP23RE: Flasher Wiring
31 kelliott@intranet.ca (Ke24Re: Seriea II Heater Question
32 Wayne Haight [whaight@ha22Getting it straight
33 Mike Johnson [johnsonm@b13Re: Austin 4x4
34 Michael Carradine [carra15Re: Getting it straight
35 gpool@pacific.net (Granv12Re: Austin 4x4
36 gpool@pacific.net (Granv20Re: Getting it straight
37 RoverNut@aol.com 25Re: mobile phones
38 Rick Grant [rgrant@cadvi30Re: Seriea II Heater Question
39 Russ Wilson [rwilson@usa22Re: Austin??
40 David L Glaser [dlglaser13Re: Old numbers
41 David Hanna [hannad@rint30New Rover Web Site
42 kma367@gsilink.com 7 UNSUBSCRIBE
43 Uncle Roger [sinasohn@cr18Re: Fore! ("Purpose-built" Landy Golf-carts?)
44 Allan Smith [smitha@cand26talk rench
45 Adrian Redmond [channel657Re: Getting it straight
46 David Cockey [dcockey@ti44Re: Seriea II Heater Question
47 James Pappas [roverhead@18NOT A MISPRINT!


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From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Fri, 26 Sep 1997 08:10:25 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Hub nut spanners

In a message dated 97-09-25 22:34:35 EDT, you write:

 "the right tool for the right job."  Most 3/4" drive sockets will be too 
 thick to fit into the hub recess.  Last time I looked , RN had 'em in the 
 $25 to $30 range.  As difficult a concept as this is for most members on 
 this list - SPEND THE BUCKS and get the right implement.  It'll save you in 
 the long run >>

A good auto parts store will carry them as well.  I've seen them at a local
place (Westminster Auto) under the brand name "Cherokee" I think.  Even
heavier duty than RN part and about $10 cheaper.

Nate

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Date: Fri, 26 Sep 1997 09:20:29 -0400
From: Mike Johnson <johnsonm@borg.com>
Subject: Lumination info // Shipping US

Does anyone know where i can find the tech info for the Lumination
electronic ignition kit?  I have always had kinda sloppy timing,  so I
thought I would give it a try.

ALSO.

Made a deal with a LR owner in Georgia for a truck cap,  I'm in New York,
how to get it here?  Called around "MailBoxes etc." , UPS,  FedEx...  All
were over $200.  Ouch!!  So I gentleman that I work with says,  "Did ya
call Greyhound?".  So I did,  the skinny on Greyhound...

Box dimensions must be under 33 X 53 X 74 and under 100# ( kinda light ).
A 100# box from Atlanta to Syracuse cost $57 standard shipping (space
available ie who knows when she shows) or Priority for $97 ( in this case
25.5 hrs ).
For more info call 1-800-739-5020  or  http://www.greyhound.com

Sounds pretty good to me.

--
end
Mike Johnson
johnsonm@borg.com
http://www.borg.com/~johnsonm

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Date: Fri, 26 Sep 1997 09:30:13 -0400
From: Mike Johnson <johnsonm@borg.com>
Subject: Re: An alternator that fits????

JSmallals@aol.com wrote:

> The pep boys number would be fantastic...I am still searching...thanks,
> James Small

I ended up using a NipponDenso (sp?) from a 199X Dodge Caravan.  It is a
110 amp and cost $80.  I had to modify the mount point on the front of the
alternator ( ground down about 1/8 inch ) .  Also has a life time
warrantee ( Lucas can't compare )...

--
end
Mike Johnson
johnsonm@borg.com
http://www.borg.com/~johnsonm

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Date: Fri, 26 Sep 1997 05:46:57 -0700 (PDT)
From: "Paul Gussack" <pcg@tennis.org>
Subject: Clean canvas

Anyone every try to clean a SIII soft top by tossing it in a washing machine? 
Mine is looking a bit rough on the inside and cleaning it is becoming less
effective just by scrubbing it in place.  

Paul G
SIII SWB "Grendal"

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Date: Fri, 26 Sep 1997 08:54:24 -0500
From: "Spencer K. C. Norcross" <spencern@acr.org>
Subject: Re: Landy vs Eugene the Jeep

Jim Allen wrote:
> It all boils down to what you WANT and LIKE. If folks could just
snip, snip, snip
> general tone is "are are best - everything else sucks." Gets tiresome

Jim, 
you're preaching to the choir, 
we are the diehard, can't get enough of our trucks outside, so we have
to go inside and do rover stuff on the computer types. of course we
think our trucks are the best, if we didnt care we wouldnt be here. 

I've never driven anything but rovers off road, do i want to? no, i just
want to do things in rovers. would i go off roading with guys in jeeps?
sure, if i was going to have a fun time. 

do i think rovers are best? yes. 
why? i like them the most. 
its as simple as that. i dont need to quantify my love for rovers in
terms of approach and departure angles, or horsepower, or gear ratios.
so the comparison is pointless and like most of us on this list i'm not
going to change my mind and become a jeep owner. 
statistics, figures and comparisons arent going to cut it, we like what
we like.

> especially if you know the real story. 

*That* gets tiresome, would *your* opinion be the real story?

 >        Cat recipes! Grind up owner and feed to cat! Heehee!

I love people, they taste just like chicken!

**INCOMING**   Stop, Drop and Roll!!!

hope to see lots of you next weekend, where we can be really partisan,
spenny
Arlington, VA

1969 SWB, The Wayback Machine
1965 Ex-MOD LWB, Gromit <- Just add bolts  :-0
Land Rover - 4WD of choice for the Information Superhighway

Q. Why do they call it a kilt?
A. Because a lot of people got kilt when they called it a skirt.

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From: Ian Otty <imo@kerridge.com>
Date: Fri, 26 Sep 97 14:09:08 BST
Subject: re:LR vs Jeep - Jim Allen

I have owned & driven a variety of off-road vehicles including 
Suzuki SJ & Vitara, Toyota pickups, GM Frontera (Isuzu Amigo] etc 
(although never a Jeep) so I am not totally biased towards any one 
make and I agree perfectly with Jim Allen.

I personally would not drive a Series/Defender LR if I didn't use 
it for off-road use or for towing as there are better value 
vehicles suitable for use mainly on tarmac.

I believe that the test in LROI was fundamentally wrong as the Jeep 
is sold in the UK as an SUV whereas the LR Defender is sold as a 
working vehicle. The defender is built to take crew and 
equipment/materials over severe terrain - every day of its working 
life. The Jeep isn't! - Surely the test should have included 
ability to transport a payload over the same terrain, ease of 
loading cargo etc. (I have personally loaded 500Kg's into the back 
of my SWB using a fork lift truck by simply unbolting the rear door 
to allow access! - you can't do that with many 4WD's]

I don't believe anybody would argue that vehicles such as the 
Toyota/Nissan/Mitsubishi 4WD's are not more 
comfortable/economic/faster than the LR, however they were not 
built for the same purpose. The new Freelander is specifically 
built as an SUV and as such is far superior to any of the above. I 
wish it every success.

I also hope that a re-test is scheduled for Freelander vs Jeep (A 
test of two SUV's]

I personally will still drive my LR as I have not found a vehicle 
yet which will sustain the punishment that I give it and still keep 
going!!!!!!

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Date: Fri, 26 Sep 1997 07:20:35 -0700
From: jimallen@onlinecol.com (Jim Allen)
Subject: Re: Odds & ends

>Thanks for the K&N stuff. This weekend maybe I'll do a few laps with the
>original filter, then swap in the K&N (or better yet, have a friend put
>one in so I don't know and then do some driving) and see what's better or
>if I notice any "seat of the pants" improvements.

Make sure the K&N is sealed in well. Even with paper filters, I use a bit
of grease on the sealing surfaces of the  filter. If the K&N line has
failing,it's that sometimes the sealing surfaces don't conform and seal as
well as they should in some applications, letting dirt by

 >On another note, I too was a volunteer driving nurses and doctors ythrough
>a wicked blizzard a couple of years ago. The roadkill I saw was
>impressive.
>2 jeeps, a grand cherokee, a slew of blazers, and a full size bronco. For
>the two or three days I was driving, I saw a 110, two series vehicles, and
>a number of rangies, all holding their own.

A purely subjective observation and totally dependant on good or bad
drivers. I recently watched a very nicely equpped D90 (big tires,
suspension locked up, etc) and a similarly equipped Range Rover unable to
go where a stock Jeep TJs, and some mildly modified YJs, TJs and CJs had
just gone . I was with the Jeep group shooting a story and the comments
were not kind. I had to bite my tongue. The problem was not with the D90
and Rangie but with their drivers. Having driven extensively the "other"
vehicles you mention in very tough terrain (and snow), I can attest to
their performance. Again, it's mostly the driver.

>feel about Land Rovers, and like I said, having driven alot of different
>trucks around through a lot of different conditions, hands down Rover
>takes the bone.

        If you arte comparing apples to apples (i.e. no series rigs vs TJs)
and given equal drivers, I agree 100%

        Jim Allen

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From: Rob Dennis <RobD@UnitedParking.com>
Subject: RE: Lumination info // Shipping US
Date: Fri, 26 Sep 1997 09:22:14 -0400

Another good shipper is Amtrak. We needed to ship a 500# winch for a Unimog 
from Texas to Atlanta. It cost $100 and made the trip in two days. Quite a 
bit less than UPS Blue <g>

     -------------------
    |         |         |
    | _ _ ____|____ _ _ |       Rob Dennis
  O |[___|>>>>>>>>>|___]| O     RobD@UnitedParking.com
   \____===_=====_===____/      Atlanta, GA USA
   |oo   |(_)###(_)|   oo|      (404) 875-4537
   |     |   ###   |     |
   |     | ####### |     |      1972 SerIII 88
   |_____|_#######_|_____|      1996 Discovery
  [_______________________]     1963 MB Unimog 404.1
     EEEI           EEEI

-----Original Message-----
From:	Mike Johnson [SMTP:johnsonm@borg.com]
Sent:	Friday, September 26, 1997 9:20 AM
To:	lro@playground.sun.com
Subject:	Lumination info // Shipping US

Does anyone know where i can find the tech info for the Lumination
electronic ignition kit?  I have always had kinda sloppy timing,  so I
thought I would give it a try.

ALSO.

Made a deal with a LR owner in Georgia for a truck cap,  I'm in New York,
how to get it here?  Called around "MailBoxes etc." , UPS,  FedEx...  All
were over $200.  Ouch!!  So I gentleman that I work with says,  "Did ya
call Greyhound?".  So I did,  the skinny on Greyhound...

Box dimensions must be under 33 X 53 X 74 and under 100# ( kinda light ).
A 100# box from Atlanta to Syracuse cost $57 standard shipping (space
available ie who knows when she shows) or Priority for $97 ( in this case
25.5 hrs ).
For more info call 1-800-739-5020  or  http://www.greyhound.com

Sounds pretty good to me.

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From: Rob Dennis <RobD@UnitedParking.com>
Subject: RE: An alternator that fits????
Date: Fri, 26 Sep 1997 09:11:29 -0400

The alternator that I used was from Pep Boys # 7127MDP. =============================================================
 Rob Dennis                        
 Technical Director                (404) 658-9053 x102 voice
 United Parking Inc                (404) 658-9077 fax
 Atlanta, GA USA                   RobD@UnitedParking.com
=============================================================

-----Original Message-----
From:	JSmallals@aol.com [SMTP:JSmallals@aol.com]
Sent:	Friday, September 26, 1997 3:51 AM
To:	lro@playground.sun.com
Subject:	Re: An alternator that fits????

The pep boys number would be fantastic...I am still searching...thanks,
James Small

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Date: Fri, 26 Sep 1997 07:31:23 -0700
From: jimallen@onlinecol.com (Jim Allen)
Subject: Re: Landy vs Eugene the Jeep

>its as simple as that. i dont need to quantify my love for rovers in
>terms of approach and departure angles, or horsepower, or gear ratios.
>so the comparison is pointless and like most of us on this list i'm not
>going to change my mind and become a jeep owner.
>statistics, figures and comparisons arent going to cut it, we like what
>we like.

Spenny,

        Now here is a perfectly wonderful attitude! You don't have to
badmounth or invent reasons to justify your choice. Well said!

>hope to see lots of you next weekend, where we can be really partisan,

Doubt I'll be there , old son, it's 3000 miles away.

        Jim Allen

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Date: Fri, 26 Sep 1997 08:36:43 -0500 (CDT)
From: Ray Harder <ccray@showme.missouri.edu>
Subject: Re: Steering woes

On Thu, 25 Sep 1997, Alexander P. Grice wrote:
> Subject: Steering woes

> WRT the thread on steering wobbles, I repalced the steering box two weeks 

> pulling the wing.  I didn't think it was possible, but it works.  All you 
> have to remove is the front wheel to get access room.

sandy, how many hours did this take you -- was it simply unbolting and
"the inverse" or was there some snags.  i plan to do this someday...

ray harder

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From: Allan Smith <smitha@candw.lc>
Subject: torque wrench
Date: Fri, 26 Sep 1997 10:08:37 -0300

Hi all - I am about to change the timing belt on the 90, parts just arrived from the 
UK, with the necessary LR tools, and now I realise that I have the wrong types of 
torque wrenches for tensioning the belt.

Would someone be able to give me a phone number of a place that would be able to 
supply a low-range dial type wrench by mail? Ideally in the southeast for proximity 
although that probably doesn't matter. 

Many thanks in advance.
Allan.

Allan Smith
Caribbean Natural Resources Institute
Vieux Fort
St. Lucia, West Indies.
Tel +(758) 454 6060
Fax +(758) 454 5188

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Date: Thu, 25 Sep 1997 23:36:29 +0100
From: "EDWARD R. TREANOR II" <teddy@javanet.com>
Subject: Flasher Wiring

I am now getting around to trying to fix my flashers on my 62 IIA
(positive earth) and am totally lost. Nothing in the system works. The
bulbs are all new, including the one in the switch. I would just like to
know what the circuit is like. ie.- Does the power lead go to the
switch? If so, What or how many wires go to the flasher unit? There are
three prongs on the flasher unit, what does each correspond to? Does
this unit have to be grounded? All wires are original, so feel free to
tell me what color wires go where. 
	Any help will be greatly appreciated, I just need a pointing in the
right direction. Thanks.
		-Ted Treanor
		 Sunderland, MA

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From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Fri, 26 Sep 1997 10:23:56 -0400
Subject: Re: Flasher Wiring

Ted,

If you have the manuals for your car (or just about any manual, for that
matter), look up the turn-signal wiring in the later 6-cylinder cars - it's
effectively identical to what you have in your IIa, unless someone's bodged
in something else.

If nothing at all is working, I'd start by replacing the flasher module.
It's the same wretched 3-lug one you can buy in any Auto Palace or Pep Boys
for about $2.99.

                         Al Richer

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Date: Fri, 26 Sep 1997 07:40:24 -0700
From: "Christopher H. Dow" <dow@thelen.org>
Subject: Re: Flasher Wiring

EDWARD R. TREANOR II wrote:
> I am now getting around to trying to fix my flashers on my 62 IIA
> (positive earth) and am totally lost. Nothing in the system works. The
> bulbs are all new, including the one in the switch. I would just like to
> know what the circuit is like. ie.- Does the power lead go to the
> switch? If so, What or how many wires go to the flasher unit? There are
> three prongs on the flasher unit, what does each correspond to? Does
> this unit have to be grounded? All wires are original, so feel free to
> tell me what color wires go where.

The circuit diagram is listed in the Optional Equipment section of the
older manual.  I don't know where it is in the newer (2 volume) one.  
Here's a description:

Behind the instrument panel:
A green wire runs into the 'B' terminal of the flasher unit.  
A blue/red wire runs from switch harness to the 'P' terminal on the
flasher.
A green wire runs from the switch harness to the 'L' terminal on the
flasher.
A light green/red wire connects to the green/red wire in the main
harness.
A green/white wire runs from the switch harness to the green/white wire
in the main harness.
A black/white wire runs from the switch harness to ground.

In the engine bay:
This is fuzzy.  It depends on the harness you're using.  on mine, the
main harness has splitouts making it ever smaller while running from the
firewall to the headlamps.  One of these splitouts connects to a small
harness containing the break/rear flasher connections (green/red,
green/white, green/purple).  This runs down from above the fuel pump to
down by the stop light switch (a pressure switch attached to the 5-way
brake line junction).  There, you attach color-to-color, and it runs to
the lights on the back.  The main harness carries the indicator lamps to
the front, where they connect to the harnesses coming in from the
wings.  This is somewhat different from what is described in the
optional equipment section of the shop manual.

Anyway, green/red is left, and green/white is right.  One thing I did to
get everything working peachy is to string black ground wires back to
the ground terminal on the battery (in my case, -, but in your case +). 
I also had a rear lamp that was full of water, which screwed up a lot of
stuff (brake pedal turned on instrument panel lights !!!).

Good luck.  The key is good solid connections and good ground.

C

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From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Fri, 26 Sep 1997 10:58:19 -0400
Subject: Re: Clean canvas

Re: Washing-machine canvas?

I wouldn't - she'll shrink on you.

Pull it off, lay it out on your lawn (or wherever) and give it a good
scrubbing by hand. Works for tents and tarpaulins - should work for a
Landie canvas.

               ajr

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From: Neil Sheridan <neil_seg@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Fore!  ("Purpose-built" Landy Golf-carts?)
Date: Fri, 26 Sep 1997 09:29:31 -0400

I'm intrigued by the golfball as fuel  sender idea RoverNut posted 
yesterday, but as a post last week pointed out -- golfballs 
dissolve in gasoline.

Any ideas out there for a gas-resistant alternative?

Neil Sheridan
'65 88"  'The Sheridan Valdez'

------------
>>The dipstick thing probably needs no explanation, but one fella on the list
dropped a golf ball down into his tank. It was relitively quiet 'til he was
about out of gas, then it would roll around and *clonk*. Situation solved. <<

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From: Solihull@aol.com
Date: Fri, 26 Sep 1997 12:22:15 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Fuel tank floats, was"Fore!"

I've used floats from VW tanks senders before. They're about the same size as
the LR one and clip onto the wire the same. I've also used large corks, from
hardware store or craft shop. The little ones from wine bottles may not offer
enough buoyancy.
Cheers!!
John Dillingham
near Canton, GA
KF4NAS     LROA #1095
73 s3 swb 25902676b DD "Pansy"
72 s3 swb 25900502a rusted, in suspended animation
Looking for a P5 project, well, OK, or a P6 or another SD1
Vintage Rover Service, since 1994, where we say:
Land Rovers for Agriculture!
Land Rovers for Industry!
Land Rovers for Recreation!
Land Rovers forever!! D.V.

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From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Fri, 26 Sep 1997 12:35:40 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Clean canvas

In a message dated 97-09-26 11:00:58 EDT, you write:

<< Pull it off, lay it out on your lawn (or wherever) and give it a good
 scrubbing by hand. Works for tents and tarpaulins - should work for a
 Landie canvas >>

A stiff push broom, dishwashing soap and a hose with jet nozzle has always
worked well for me.

Nate 

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Date: Fri, 26 Sep 1997 14:11:55 -0400 (EDT)
From: Russ Wilson <rwilson@usaor.net>
Subject: Austin??

I was at the local steel supply Co. today getting some things to finish
patching up my footwells when I noticed an odd car sitting at the rear of
the place.  The guy says  "it's my dad's old car he was going to fix up and
it's just been sitting here... want to buy it?...
 The thing turns out to be an Austin Taxi.  I have NO idea how old this
beast is. It was last used as near as I can tell in 1965.  It still has the
little "fare sheet" posted in the passenger area.  It has the little cargo
area next to the driver that is exposed... fold down rear-facing seats..
and a diesel engine.  The guy said that he wants $1500 for it.  I don't
know if anyone on the list would be interested or know of anyone
interested..   The thing is sitting in Pittsburgh Pa. at "Greco Steel Co."
(412) 274-9043   CALL THEM if you are interested in the beast.

Russ Wilson
Leslie Bittner

Fort Pitt Land Rover Group
Pittsburgh's full service Land Rover Club

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From: Lodelane@aol.com
Date: Fri, 26 Sep 1997 14:22:05 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Fore!  ("Purpose-built" Landy Golf-carts?)

All the talk about dissolving golf balls reminds me of a nifty trick used by
the Vietnamese on the M151 Series "Jeep".  As the filler neck went directly
into the tank, it was relatively simple to wrap a rubber band around the
spoon of a hand grenade and drop it into the tank.  After a while, the band
dissolved and the grenade went off.  BTW the tank is directly under the
driver's seat   >8*O

Larry Smith
Chester, VA

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Date: Fri, 26 Sep 1997 11:25:26 -0700 (PDT)
From: scooper@scooper.seanet.com (John & Sandy Cooper)
Subject: champagne fuel sender

My fuel sender started to read low many years ago, even when the tank was
full.  I took the sending unit out to discover the plastic float was half
filled with gas (should be sealed).  Well, when searching about my parents
home I found a champagne bottle with an oversized cork (yes, real cork).
Well...after finishing the bottle the cork was a perfect fit and has been in
there the last 15 years.  The gauge works better and more accurate than it
ever did.                                          John Cooper 1969 11a

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From: QROVER80@aol.com
Date: Fri, 26 Sep 1997 14:25:31 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re:  Austin??

Gee .. Some of the fx4 taxis had a ROVER diesel in them :-) That one sounds
like a Fx3 tho ? 
See ...... Rover content after all. 
Rgds Quintin

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From: CIrvin1258@aol.com
Date: Fri, 26 Sep 1997 14:50:20 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Luminition info

Call (or fax) Ripspeed, at 44-181-803-4355 (ph), or 807-7495 (fax), and ask
for Bruce. He can give you any info that he has.

Lumenition is a good system, but the price for it has nearly doubled in the
last 5 or 6 years (about $200.00 now - ouch!), but it's still worth it. Only
problem is - you get so used to never having to adjust it, that when you
drive a car that doesn't have one installed, you tend to forget the symptoms
of closed points!

Charles

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Date: Fri, 26 Sep 1997 15:12:42 -0400
From: The Bickertons <Bickerton@compuserve.com>
Subject: Hub nuts, Heeps etc.

Hi all,
        Has anyone (in the UK) had punctuality problems with their postal=

subscription to LRW? I had the October issue a week and a day late, and
have had them two weeks+ before. I thought the whole idea of subscription=

was to get the classifieds early, as they have mostly gone by the Friday
the mag is put on general sale anyway. When I put an ad in, I got the mag=

on the Thursday, it came out on the Friday (I was doing well), but on the=

Monday before, a bloke rang me up about the ad, and said he'd bought LRW =
in
his local paper shop, not on subscription. I am really confused!

        Continuing the LR90 vs. Heep W(r)an(k?)gler, I thought the articl=
e
was OK (because the 90 came out on top. Let's face it, if the Heep had wo=
n,
the subscriptions would plummet!). The only thing that caught my eye was
their way of testing the diff lock/limited slip/no diff at all (I don't
have the article to hand). The cross axle test described the Heep walking=

straight over it, with it's super-duper (cheating) auto diff lock. The 90=

stopped with a wheel 6inches (15cm for the picky ones!) off the ground. I=
f
the wheel is only 5 1/2 ins above terra firma, does motion continue? Is i=
t
electronically controlled, or is there a mechanical altitude sensing devi=
ce
built into the hubs? I think not. That's just me being finickity though!!=
!

        On the thought of hub nuts, a question. If we are to take the
simplest explanation first, are you turning it to the left? (That is not =
a
serious suggestion, but I have nothing more constructive to say. I didn't=

insult your intelligence, please don't firebomb my hamster).

        Thanks a lot. Great list, good subjects, not too much rubbish
(except mine, of course!)

        John 'The Git' Bickerton (see Buxton and District LRC newsletter)=

        Turnditch, Derbyshire, UK

PS. Are there any others on the list from BADLRC? Just asking!

------------------------------
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Date: Fri, 26 Sep 1997 15:13:32 -0400 (EDT)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@nrn1.NRCan.gc.ca>
Subject: Re: Austin??

On Fri, 26 Sep 1997, Russ Wilson wrote:

>  The thing turns out to be an Austin Taxi.  I have NO idea how old this
> beast is. It was last used as near as I can tell in 1965.  It still has the

	It is a FX-3.  I forwarded this off to the NA branch of the
Vintage London Taxi Club. Someone will be interested.  Thx,

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From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Subject: Seriea II Heater Question
Date: Fri, 26 Sep 1997 12:39:49 -0700

Restoration is slowly progressing on my 1961 Series II 88.  (Left Hand
Drive)

I have a question about the heater motor/core (coil) assembly.  On other
Rovers, the intake for the heater core comes in from the side of the
wing through a mesh screen.  On my vehicle, it appears to come in
through the mud shield inside the wheel well.  The mud shield is no
longer there so it's hard to tell.  The wing (not original) has a hole
for the air intake but I can see no way of running a pipe from it to the
heater core box.  The setup on my rover seems to differ greatly from
others that I have seen in pictures.  I have heard that Canadian Rovers
had special (kodiak?) heaters installed.  Could this be one of those?

Paul Quin
1961 Series II 88
s/n 144101239
Victoria, BC  Canada

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From: ASFCO@worldnet.att.net
Subject: Series heated windscreens
Date: Fri, 26 Sep 1997 19:48:43 +0000

  Has anyone installed heated glass in a series rover?
Any sources for this cheaper than RN who wants $ 428 ?
My lla is currently apart with the windscreen glass
broken I figure it would be a good thing to do if the cost was a bit (lot)
more reasonable
Rgds
Steve Bradke       96 Discovery
WA2GMC             72 S lll 88 (For Sale)
                   68 S lla 88                 

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Date: Fri, 26 Sep 1997 16:14:11 -0400 (EDT)
From: pscales@blvl.igs.net (P.S.)
Subject: Austin 4x4

>The thing turns out to be an Austin Taxi.
>It has the little cargo area next to the driver that is 
>exposed... fold down rear-facing seats...and a diesel engine.

A fellow in Picton, Ontario, has a handful of Austin 4x4 vehicles which look
a lot like Land Rover series vehicles.  His name is Joe Lightfoot, and I
don't think he is interested in selling.  Aside from his backyard, I have
never seen an Austin "jeep" (for lack of a better term).  Anybody else?

Peter

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From: Rob Dennis <RobD@UnitedParking.com>
Subject: RE: Flasher Wiring
Date: Fri, 26 Sep 1997 12:01:22 -0400

I am more familiar with the SerIII hazard system, so this may not apply, 
but basically the hazards and the turn signals are separate systems each 
with their own 2 terminal flashers. All the turn signals lamps are routed 
through the hazard switch and therefore if none of the signals are working 
I would look here first.

     -------------------
    |         |         |
    | _ _ ____|____ _ _ |       Rob Dennis
  O |[___|>>>>>>>>>|___]| O     RobD@UnitedParking.com
   \____===_=====_===____/      Atlanta, GA USA
   |oo   |(_)###(_)|   oo|      (404) 875-4537
   |     |   ###   |     |
   |     | ####### |     |      1972 SerIII 88
   |_____|_#######_|_____|      1996 Discovery
  [_______________________]     1963 MB Unimog 404.1
     EEEI           EEEI

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Date: Fri, 26 Sep 1997 16:33:42 -0400 (EDT)
From: kelliott@intranet.ca (Keith Elliott)
Subject: Re: Seriea II Heater Question

Hi Paul...

On my 61 with the Kodiak the air intake comes from the hole in the wing and
straight into the core via a short piece of clothes dryer vent hose. I have
never see the intake coming from the mudshield, only from the wing and the
breakfast.
>Restoration is slowly progressing on my 1961 Series II 88.  (Left Hand
>Drive)
>I have a question about the heater motor/core (coil) assembly.  On other
>Rovers, the intake for the heater core comes in from the side of the
>wing through a mesh screen.  On my vehicle, it appears to come in

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 22 lines)]
>s/n 144101239
>Victoria, BC  Canada
Keith

'61 Series II 88"
Ottawa

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Date: 	Fri, 26 Sep 1997 07:43:36 -1000
From: Wayne Haight <whaight@hawaii.edu>
Subject: Getting it straight

Aloha,

I just replaced my tie-rod ends, set toe-in, etc. My problem: now my
steering wheel isn't centered while I'm driving straight. Any hints on
getting it straight after replacing the tie-rod ends? Before I put it
all back together, I turned the wheel lock to lock, and then set it at
half that value. the wheels looked to be in the straight ahead position,
and the steering wheel was centered. All the rods were re-connected and
toe-in set. Unfortunately when I tried it on the road the steering wheel
was about 30 degrees off center when driving straight. Where did I go
wrong?...
-- 
Wayne R. Haight
Senior Fisheries Research Specialist
Joint Institute for Marine and Atmospheric Research
2570 Dole Street
Honolulu, Hawaii 96822

------------------------------
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Date: Fri, 26 Sep 1997 16:50:28 -0400
From: Mike Johnson <johnsonm@borg.com>
Subject: Re: Austin 4x4

> Aside from his backyard, I have
>never seen an Austin "jeep" (for lack of a better term).  Anybody else?
>Peter

the better term would be Gypsy,  kinda neat.

Mike Johnson N7WBO
http://www.borg.com/~johnsonm

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Date: Fri, 26 Sep 1997 13:53:05 -0700
From: Michael Carradine <carradine@unimog.net>
Subject: Re: Getting it straight

At 07:43 AM 9/26/97 -1000, Wayne Haight wrote:
.....the wheels looked to be in the straight ahead position,
:and the steering wheel was centered. All the rods were re-connected and
:toe-in set. Unfortunately when I tried it on the road the steering wheel
:was about 30 degrees off center when driving straight. Where did I go
:wrong?...

 I hate when that happens!!

-Michael

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Date: Fri, 26 Sep 1997 13:55:56 -0700 (PDT)
From: gpool@pacific.net (Granville Pool)
Subject: Re: Austin 4x4

Mike said:

>the better term would be Gypsy,  kinda neat.

Actually it's "Gipsy" (not to be picky or anything).

Granny

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Date: Fri, 26 Sep 1997 14:01:48 -0700 (PDT)
From: gpool@pacific.net (Granville Pool)
Subject: Re: Getting it straight

Wayne,

>I just replaced my tie-rod ends, set toe-in, etc. My problem: now my
>steering wheel isn't centered while I'm driving straight. Any hints on
>getting it straight after replacing the tie-rod ends? [snip]

Two ways:  Either adjust the tie-rod that goes from the main steering box to
the relay or remove and replace the steering wheel, repositioning it on the
shaft.  The latter seems easier to me, at least on the Late IIA and III
which just have a nut holding the steering wheel onto the spines of the
shaft.  Especially when it's as far off as yours is.

Cheers,

Granny

------------------------------
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From: RoverNut@aol.com
Date: Fri, 26 Sep 1997 17:05:15 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: mobile phones

In a message dated 97-09-26 07:18:19 EDT, you write:

<< You should ask your GSM mobile provider if they have a Roaming Agreement
 with a provider in the US. In Belgium there's a provider, Mobistar,
 which has such an agreement. 
  >>

Hi Guys,

If any of you have any questions about mobile phones and networks, I've been
in the business for almost 6 years. Please email me directly since any
answers I may provide will have no Rover content and will probably be on the
boring side for those not interested.
Rover install questions will be forwarded to my tech, who is a wizard with
this stuff.

Alex Maiolo
89 RR
69 IIa

------------------------------
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Date: Fri, 26 Sep 1997 15:11:01 -0600
From: Rick Grant <rgrant@cadvision.com>
Subject: Re: Seriea II Heater Question

At 12:39 PM 26/09/97 -0700, Paul Quin, wrote
 The wing (not original) has a hole
>for the air intake but I can see no way of running a pipe from it to the
>heater core box. 

Hi Paul, I also have a wing with a rectangular mesh covered hole and like
yours it isn't original with the vehicle.

There is no fresh air intake provision for my heater and the only holes in
the bulkhead are for the water hoses.  There's a second heater behind the
passenger bulkhead and that also lacks fresh air venting provisions.

Given the near complete inability of either unit to deal with real winter
the last thing I'd want is more nice cold fresh air anyway.

 

			Rick Grant

			1959, SII   "VORIZO"  

rgrant@cadvision.com	
www.cadvision.com/rgrant
Cobra Media Communications.  Calgary, Canada
Aboriginal and International Relief Issues

------------------------------
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Date: Fri, 26 Sep 1997 17:11:43 -0400 (EDT)
From: Russ Wilson <rwilson@usaor.net>
Subject: Re: Austin??

>On Fri, 26 Sep 1997, Russ Wilson wrote:
>>  The thing turns out to be an Austin Taxi.  I have NO idea how old this
>> beast is. It was last used as near as I can tell in 1965.  It still has the
>	It is a FX-3.  I forwarded this off to the NA branch of the

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 10 lines)]
>	It is a FX-3.  I forwarded this off to the NA branch of the
>Vintage London Taxi Club. Someone will be interested.  Thx,
I knew the original post was a touch low on Rover content but I had faith
that someone on the list would know of someone who would be interested in
the thing.  Dixon, you had one up on me just by knowing it was an "FX-3"

Russ Wilson
Leslie Bittner

Fort Pitt Land Rover Group
Pittsburgh's full service Land Rover Club

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Date: Fri, 26 Sep 1997 18:30:35 -0400
From: David L Glaser <dlglaser@wam.umd.edu>
Subject: Re: Old numbers

>But there is a use of a VIN number.  I hear this use
> is similarly employed near Atlanta, Georgia on <cough> 109's among
> other things...)

Are you telling me they didn't make coil sprung, turbo, intercooled
diesel 109s in 1967??? :-)

David Glaser

------------------------------
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Date: Fri, 26 Sep 1997 18:08:58 -0400
From: David Hanna <hannad@rintintin.colorado.edu>
Subject: New Rover Web Site

Greetings fellow Rover enthusiast!
This letter is to announce the new web site for the Colorado based club, The
Solihull Society!  Our site:

www.SolihullSociety.org

provides online free classifieds, techtips, user added links, information
about the annual National Rally, and, of course, information about our club
and the events we participate in.  Please feel free to stop by and visit the
site, give us feedback on what you would like to see from the Solihull
Society, and update (or add) any links you may have to the Solihull Society. 
We would be happy to participate in any banner exchange program so just let us
know what you are interested in.  Enjoy the site!

Dave Hanna - Solihull Society webmaster
hannad@solihullsociety.org
http://www.solihullsociety.org

PS:  If you currently have a link to the older versions of our site at other
addresses please update your links!

-- 
David Hanna	                   
hannad@earthling.net
http://www.solihullsociety.org/hannad/index.htm

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From: kma367@gsilink.com
Date:          Sat, 27 Sep 1997 08:29:08 +0000
Subject:       UNSUBSCRIBE

Please unsubcribe kma367@gsilink.com

------------------------------
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Date: Fri, 26 Sep 1997 20:22:31 -0500 (CDT)
From: Uncle Roger <sinasohn@crl.com>
Subject: Re: Fore!  ("Purpose-built" Landy Golf-carts?)

At 09:29 AM 9/26/97 -0400, you wrote:
>I'm intrigued by the golfball as fuel  sender idea RoverNut posted 
>yesterday, but as a post last week pointed out -- golfballs 
>dissolve in gasoline.
>Any ideas out there for a gas-resistant alternative?

 
Steel ball bearing?

Uncle Roger                       "There is pleasure pure in being mad
sinasohn@crl.com                             that none but madmen know."
Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates
San Francisco, California                  http://www.crl.com/~sinasohn/

------------------------------
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From: Allan Smith <smitha@candw.lc>
Subject: talk rench
Date: Fri, 26 Sep 1997 21:24:02 -0300

Hi all - it isn't getting any easier down here locating a dial torque wrench and any 
help would be just great. 
Today's tour of tool outlets/rentals has been very informative. 
First place: "Talk what?"
2nd. "Let me check the boss, that's what you aksing?"
3rd. "Right, I know what you mean"

Great :-)

"Well, is not many people really using that kinda thing. You woon't find that on the 
island" 

Great :-(

The only phone number I have is Sears.
A Sears droid face to face is a challenge.
But over the phone?  and from another country?
 
Help if you can
Allan

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Date: Sat, 27 Sep 1997 03:45:01 +0200
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Subject: Re: Getting it straight
[digester: Removing section of:  Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="------------6A7CAF6B8ECE05CB385661A8" ]

There are three things to check, here are the first 6 of them...-

1.
Set the front tie rods so that the wheels are tracking right.

2.
Set the elbox on the splined axle off the steering box so that when the
steering column is centred bewteen full left and right lock
(irrespective of steering wheel aspct) the tie rod to the front relay is
midway between relay left and right extremes.

3.
Use the relay to steering box tie rod to fine adjust. (This usuall means
stripping lots of gunk of the tie rods and clamps, so that the tie rod
actually will rotate - but you did that first ok?

4.
Check that the wheels are still pointing straight forward, and the
cloumn is still centred.

5.
Remove steering wheel and replace in correct position.

6.
Use tie rod between steering box and relay to fine adjust so that wheels
and steering wheel are centred.

Basically you work back from the tyres to the steering wheel - there are
short cuts, but they can leave you with more sturning ability to one
side at the expense of the other side.

good luck!
-- 
Adrian Redmond

---------------------------------------------------
CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
---------------------------------------------------
telephone (office)		    +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)		    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data                +45 86 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)		    +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)                  +45 40 54 22 66
mobile NMT			    +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail			     channel6@post2.tele.dk
HoTMaiL (www.e-mail)	channel6denmark@hotmail.com
---------------------------------------------------
Visit our homepages!                www.channel6.dk
---------------------------------------------------
--------------6A7CAF6B8ECE05CB385661A8

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Date: Fri, 26 Sep 1997 22:46:00 -0400
From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com>
Subject: Re: Seriea II Heater Question

Paul Quin wrote about one of my favourite subjects, II heaters:

> I have a question about the heater motor/core (coil) assembly.  On
> other
> Rovers, the intake for the heater core comes in from the side of the
> wing through a mesh screen.  On my vehicle, it appears to come in
> through the mud shield inside the wheel well.  The mud shield is no
> longer there so it's hard to tell.  The wing (not original) has a hole
> for the air intake but I can see no way of running a pipe from it to
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 10 lines)]
> the
> heater core box.

I'm aware of two varieties of fresh air heaters used on II's. Both have
the fresh air inlet located on the side of the right front fender next
to the rad panel and the blower motor mounted on the right footwell.

The most common seems to have been the predecessor to the Kodiaks and
was installed in North America. It had a round air inlet and used a
cloth and spiral wire duct inside the fender to the heater unit. The
heater core is located on the right side. I believe it is in the engine
compartment, but could be wrong. The hot air is then distributed by a
rectangular duct in the passenger compartment. I also don't recall what
was done with the mud shield. Our SII SW with this heater has evidence
of a round Smiths unit as original equipment.

The other unit was listed in the optional parts book, has a rectangular
air inlet, and uses a metal duct from the inlet to the blower. The parts
book lists a modified mud shield with hole and rubber seal for the duct
to pass through. The fan is mounted on the top of the right footwell,
and a rectangular duct in the passenger compartment connects it to the
heater box mounted to the center of the bulkhead in the passenger
compartment. Steve Stoneham had a SII with this style heater.

The third heater I've seen in SIIs is the round Smiths unit. This
doesn't have a fresh air source.

Regards,
David Cockey

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From: James Pappas <roverhead@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: NOT A MISPRINT!
Date: Sat, 27 Sep 1997 03:51:23 +0000

How `bout a 1997 NAS D90SW in.... MONZA RED????!!!! Yep! NOT a misprint.

8500 miles. W/Air conditioning. 
LRNA prototype...

MONZA RED! Standard production SW is Portofino red. The Monza is the same
"arrest me puhleeze" red that the ragtop is!

Email me if you need details.

cheers
Jim

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