Land Rover Owner Message Digest Contents


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The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

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1 "Steve Stoneham" [stoneh11 No LR content :Plumbers drain pipe wrench
2 Kathleen Hollington [kho22Distributor installation question
3 Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lo26Re: Distributor installation question
4 Easton Trevor [Trevor_Ea30Re Clutch Cylinders
5 CBeireis@aol.com 7Re: No LR content :Plumbers drain pipe wrench
6 dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.o16RE: LR content added :Plumbers drain pipe wrench
7 jimallen@onlinecol.com (62Re: Landy vs Eugene the Jeep
8 AKBLACKLEY@aol.com 19Speedee Sleeve
9 NADdMD@aol.com 19Re: LR content added :Plumbers drain pipe wrench
10 dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.o18Re: Speedee Sleeve
11 AKBLACKLEY@aol.com 20Jeeps in LROI
12 "Spencer K. C. Norcross"27Re: Landy vs Eugene the Jeep
13 kelliott@intranet.ca (Ke24Re: LR content added :Plumbers drain pipe wrench
14 kelliott@intranet.ca (Ke16Re: LR content added :Plumbers drain pipe wrench
15 gpool@pacific.net (Granv47Jim Allen said it very well!
16 Ronald Hoedemakers [rola18Re: Mobile phones in USA??????
17 Autoconv@aol.com 12Re: Re[3]: LT 77 trans install
18 John_Benham@nps.gov (Joh43Re[2]: Pemex, t-shirt, loose front end advice needed
19 Dixon Kenner [dkenner@nr29Re: Old numbers
20 Dixon Kenner [dkenner@nr15Re: Imports from UK to Canada?
21 Michael R Fredette [mfre14attn Dixon Kenner
22 WJMcD@aol.com 16Oil Pressure
23 "david alan swap" [9505114Re: unsubscribe???
24 Dixon Kenner [dkenner@nr20Re: attn Dixon Kenner
25 CIrvin1258@aol.com 34Re: Landy vs Eugene the Jeep
26 MRogers315@aol.com 25Off Road Fun Days
27 QROVER80@aol.com 9Last IIa ?
28 "Christopher H. Dow" [do16Re: Last IIa ?
29 RoverNut@aol.com 13Re:
30 Paul Quin [Paul_Quin@pml25RE: Last IIa ?
31 RoverNut@aol.com 25Fwd:
32 RoverNut@aol.com 25Fwd:
33 RoverNut@aol.com 28Fwd:
34 The Bickertons [Bickerto21LandRover World email address??
35 Rob Dennis [RobD@UnitedP46RE: An alternator that fits????
36 jimallen@onlinecol.com (16Re: Landy vs Eugene the Jeep
37 Kathleen Hollington [kho30Re: Distributor installation question
38 Kathleen Hollington [kho24Re: golf ball
39 manickam@juno.com (Josep63[not specified]
40 Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lo12RE: An alternator that fits????
41 12/4/95 [rsloan@titan.li39Odds & ends
42 rover@pinn.net (Alexande21Steering woes
43 rover@pinn.net (Alexande31Hub nut spanners
44 Franz Parzefall [franz@m23Re: Speedee Sleeve
45 CIrvin1258@aol.com 29Re: Landy vs Eugene the Jeep
46 JSmallals@aol.com 8Re: An alternator that fits????
47 Adrian Redmond [channel655Beer


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From: "Steve Stoneham" <stoneham@kos.net>
Subject:  No LR content :Plumbers drain pipe wrench
Date: Thu, 25 Sep 1997 07:39:48 -0400

Just curious...what's a "plumbers drain pipe wrench"...I happen to be a
plumber and wondered if I should have one?

Steve Stoneham 
61 88" pickup

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Date: Thu, 25 Sep 1997 07:32:16 -0400 (EDT)
From: Kathleen Hollington <kholling@nrn1.nrcan.gc.ca>
Subject: Distributor installation question

Hi all.
I'm trying to finish up my project of assembling a 2.25L before the
winter, so I can put it back in the truck.  I've never taken
apart/reassembled one of these before, but the shop manuals are of great
help.  A question on the distributor.  I'd like to secure it in place in
as close as possible to its proper timing location, before I put the
timing chain cover back on and can't see the timing marks on the gears.
I've lined up the two marks now which means that cyl 1 is at top dead
center right?  Then I assume I just line up the rotor on the distributor
to point to the post which will be connected to cyl 1 and label it?  I
just want to be close, and lock it down in place.  Thanks!
        --Robert

 
    Robert St-Louis - Ottawa, Ontario, Canada - 1968 LR IIA SWB

Net-Tamer V 1.07 - Test Drive

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From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Thu, 25 Sep 1997 07:40:36 -0400
Subject: Re: Distributor installation question

If you've gotten the drive gear in place properly (look at the manual to
make sure) then the distributor should indeed drop into place.

The thing to look out for is that you're actually on a firing cycle (both
valves closed), rather than an exhaust/intake cycle. If you're on the right
one and using an old Lucas 25D4 distributor, then the vacuum capsule should
be pretty-well parallel to the the side of the block, and the #1 tower on
the distributor should be the right one toward the cylinder head, if
looking at the distributor from the side of the engine.

if you're badly off from that, it might be worth checking things out before
you button up.

Once you're sure it's all OK, then pull the distributor back out and put it
on the bench - you don't want to take a chance of damaging it while putting
the engine in, and it's in a pretty exposed place. Scribe/paint a mark on
the distributor body and the clamp, and you can put it right back where it
was when the engine's in.

                         Alan.

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From: Easton Trevor <Trevor_Easton@dofasco.ca>
Subject: Re Clutch Cylinders
Date: Thu, 25 Sep 1997 07:42:00 -0400

Ben Nibali has a problem with a clutch pedal that drops to the floor
after standing.
Last week I finally replaced the weeping seals on Miss Golightly's
clutch master cylinder.
After the job and bleeding the clutch, which seemed to take more than a
usual effort, all seemed fine.
Walked away and came back about 1hour later to move the vehicle and
pedal went to the floor. Couple of pumps and all was OK again.
Press pedal slowly and it sinks to the floor. Mutter a few choice
expletives and remove master cylinder again.
The cause of the problem was the little spring washer that fits under
the check valve at the intake from the master cylinder. Somehow  I had
put a crimp in it when building the cylinder and it wasn't sealing ever
time so when the pedal was pressed the fluid just flowed back into the
master cylinder. Search through garbage located the old spring which was
fitted and  the problem cured.
Maybe Ben, you have developed a leak at the same point. Have someone
watch the reservoir level when you press the pedal. Does it go up and
down? The level shouldn't change significantly because the check valve
should be isolating it. If it goes down as the pedal comes up you are
filling the master to replace space which was an air bubble in the
system. If it goes up as the pedal goes down the check valve is leaking
and fluid is being displaced back to the reservoir instead of to the
slave cylinder.

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From: CBeireis@aol.com
Date: Thu, 25 Sep 1997 07:51:27 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: No LR content :Plumbers drain pipe wrench

Only if your a really bad one!  In that case you should get a couple!

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From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Thu, 25 Sep 97 08:41:43 EST
Subject: RE: LR content added :Plumbers drain pipe wrench

>Just curious...what's a "plumbers drain pipe wrench"...I happen to be a
>plumber and wondered if I should have one?

I think he meant a basin wrench. Big wide slidilng adjustable thing for undoing 
the large nut that holds the drain puipe to the bottom of the sink.
Yes you should have one.:)
GREAT FOR BREAKING ON HUB NUTS.

later
DaveB

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Date: Thu, 25 Sep 1997 07:44:28 -0700
From: jimallen@onlinecol.com (Jim Allen)
Subject: Re: Landy vs Eugene the Jeep

Dear All-

        My irritation button has been pushed and I am about to be flamed.
Probably big-time. Many of you know my appreciation for Land Rover and my
long time (since '78) association with them. I was Solihull trained to work
on them and did so for many years, including a stint at Rovers North and at
two dealers. I'm a Rover guy, OK!

               HOWEVER (read this very carefully before you react):

        I'm afraid some of you guys need a reality check. After 21 years of
wrenching, I started my journalistic career as a die-hard,
Rover-by-God-love-it-or-leave-it kinda guy. Generally, I got laughed at by
my new peers. Not because I liked Rovers but because I was too narrow
minded to appreciate the other brands out there. My bias actually cost me a
few jobs. Gradually, my thinking levelled out and I began to look closely
at the other rigs and began to appreciate them - ar at least elements of
them. Some had features that surpassed Land Rovers. Some were woefully
inferior. Some were actually better machines than Land Rovers and amazed me
with their performance. All my bias and prejudice was shattered and you
know what, I came out of it liking Land Rovers just as much as I ever did.
Not because they are necessarily always the objective best (they might be,
but not necessarily) but because I simply like them the best.
        My point is this. You don't need to put blinders on for everything
else to like your Land Rover. It doesn't always have to be "the best."
        Just so you know, I thought LROIs shootout was close to the mark.
In fact, they were a little biased towards the D90 in my opinion. Having
driven them both extensively and side by side I have formed a pretty
objective opinion on their relative qualities and performance.
         What I see on the list are some biased people with very little
experience with anything else. If you have to use 25 year old tests of
vehicles that are long out of production to support your opinions, come on.
Not to pick on that one fella - he just represented the tone pretty well -
but you get my drift.
        I urge everyone out there to broaden their horizons. Dare to
compare and do it with an open mind. Appreciate the other makes. Don't make
blanket statements without personal experience and don't consider a test
drive around the block or the sight of an incompetant driver on the trail
the indicator of a vehicle's prowess. Land Rovers can hold their own. Go on
trail runs with other makes. Endure the friendly rivalry realizing that
sometimes you go under the bus and other times you'll be driving it.

        Above all, remember that it's the driver that wins the day. I have
heard the "other" guys making all sorts of derogatory statements about Land
Rovers, basing their opinions on the sight of an inexperienced driver
flogging his D90 to no avail, while "lesser" vehicles with better drivers
aced the run. I have also been on hand to watch a beater Series rig with a
very good driver leave jaws agape in a group of well prepared "other" rigs.

        If you have trouble with what has been said here, I quote William
Shatner and say,

                        "GET A LIFE!"

                (but I say it with a smile and best wishes!)

        Jim Allen

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From: AKBLACKLEY@aol.com
Date: Thu, 25 Sep 1997 10:36:45 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Speedee Sleeve

I was asked on hte CSO list to provide information on hte subject of "speedee
sleeves", since this may also interest Series owners I am cross posting it.
The "Speedee Sleeve" is a stainless steel sleeve, very thin. made to close
tolerences, and coming in a wide range of diameters, to be press fit or super
locktited on any shaft showing wear to restore oil seal function.They are
made by CR Services (formerly Chicago Rawhide), a division of SKF, Inc. the
bearing makers. They can be found at places like Bearings, Inc. or any
bearing supplier.
 I have used one on the rear main seal of my 3.5L V8, part # 99322, retails
at $39.95) with success.
They can be used on any shaft using an oil seal, ie wheel hubs, differential
pinion shafts, crankshafts, transmission input/output shafts, etc. and are a
cheap alternative to a complete shafting. (ouch!) :>) Cheers. Andy Blackley

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From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Thu, 25 Sep 1997 10:37:05 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: LR content added :Plumbers drain pipe wrench

In a message dated 97-09-25 08:41:17 EDT, you write:

<< Yes you should have one.:)
 GREAT FOR BREAKING ON HUB NUTS.
  >>

In all seriousness, I have a 6 foot piece of steel pipe I slide on the end of
socket handles/pipe wrenches /pry bars to increase my torque.  With firm slow
constant pressure, I have had excellent results.  I think it works better
than using a shorter arm with hammer blows.  I took off the starter dog this
way with almost no trouble.

Nate

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From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Thu, 25 Sep 97 10:50:25 EST
Subject: Re: Speedee Sleeve

>I was asked on hte CSO list to provide information on hte subject of "speedee
>sleeves", 

yup.
used em on diff pinion flanges and the crank pulley.
works wonders. If you are to lazy to seek em out yerself, RN and British 
Pacific will happily sell them to you at 2x the cost. They will also give 
you part#'s which is helpful. Otherwise you've got to mic the diameter of 
the part to be sleeved.

later
DaveB

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From: AKBLACKLEY@aol.com
Date: Thu, 25 Sep 1997 11:14:49 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Jeeps in LROI

Charles: I have that article also, but in a Brooklands reprint of CJ5 test
reports. The real clincher  is where are those other trucks today? Rusted
away to nothing, I'll warrant. The 4 cyl. euro-spec TJ tested in LROI costs a
hell of a lot more than the same model sold here. You can buy a 4 cyl. TJ w/
limited slip, upgraded interior, back seat etc for under $15,500 here,
whichmeans you could buy two Jeeps for every Defender on this side of the
pond. Because of the amenties (they never mentioned the soft top, which is a
dream compared to the old LR top. Mind you I like the old canvas top, but how
many people will tolerate tieing ropes to hoops in this day and age) they are
aimed at people whose off road forays will be very limited. I see dozens
everyday, all used to commute to work. These products are aimed at two very
different markets, indeed. The local business paper (Craines) has an ad from
the local LR dealer for the Defender: "How the Rich get Filthy" it says.
'Bouts says it all... Cheers. Andy Blackley

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Date: Thu, 25 Sep 1997 11:22:19 -0500
From: "Spencer K. C. Norcross" <spencern@acr.org>
Subject: Re: Landy vs Eugene the Jeep

Jim Allen wrote:

 > If you have trouble with what has been said here, I quote William
 > Shatner and say,
 > 
 >                         "GET A LIFE!"
 > 
 >                 (but I say it with a smile and best wishes!)

jim, 
as long as you dont sing like william shatner it's ok :)

rgds,
spenny
Arlington, VA

1969 SWB, The Wayback Machine
1965 Ex-MOD LWB, Gromit <- Just add bolts  :-0
Land Rover - 4WD of choice for the Information Superhighway

Q. Why do they call it a kilt?
A. Because a lot of people got kilt when they called it a skirt.

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Date: Thu, 25 Sep 1997 11:25:22 -0400 (EDT)
From: kelliott@intranet.ca (Keith Elliott)
Subject: Re: LR content added :Plumbers drain pipe wrench

>In all seriousness, I have a 6 foot piece of steel pipe I slide on the end of
>socket handles/pipe wrenches /pry bars to increase my torque.  With firm slow
>constant pressure, I have had excellent results.  I think it works better
>than using a shorter arm with hammer blows.  I took off the starter dog this
>way with almost no trouble.
>Nate

Speaking of starter dogs, I have taken mine off a couple of times and was
never able to get it off by hand, the engine would always just turn over...
As I sit here and type this I suppose I could have always put the truck in
gear... Hmmm how does everyone else do it? I usually just put a good size
pipe wrench on the dog, brace the handle against the frame and tap the
starter switch just enough to have the engine jump and free up the dog. 

Thanks
Keith

'61 Series II 88"
Ottawa

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Date: Thu, 25 Sep 1997 11:34:04 -0400 (EDT)
From: kelliott@intranet.ca (Keith Elliott)
Subject: Re: LR content added :Plumbers drain pipe wrench

>Speaking of starter dogs, I have taken mine off a couple of times and was
>never able to get it off by hand, the engine would always just turn over...

Opps, just read that... I didn't mean with just my hand but with a socket or
a wrench.

:)
Keith

'61 Series II 88"
Ottawa

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Date: Thu, 25 Sep 1997 08:47:47 -0700 (PDT)
From: gpool@pacific.net (Granville Pool)
Subject: Jim Allen said it very well!

All,

I was bulk-deleting messages due to time limitations (something I do a lot
of with the LRO list, little of with the mendo-recce list).  I had been
saving the Jeep vs. Land-Rover stuff to maybe eventually read.  But as I saw
how many there were, I could guess the boring tone and was going to delete
all.  Then I saw one from Jim Allen (whose messages are rarely boring) so I
read that one.  I've never owned a Jeep or TLC (but have driven both a fair
bit off-road) and have had some 17 Land-Rovers.  I agree 100% with Jim.

Some of you, who have been around the off-roading scene long enough will
perhaps remember the late Granville "Granny" King (quite a different fellow,
I think (hope), from Granville "Granny" Pool).  He wrote a column that moved
from one magazine to another over the years.  It was called "From the Back
Country."  He also wrote tech tips and some other stuff.  One time he wrote
an article on how to choose and wisely purchase a 4x4.  Reasonably good
stuff.  Until he said, "avoid that crumb-bum the Land-Rover."  What a jerk,
right?  I thought so.  I still read his stuff (until his untimely death) but
my respect went *way* down.

Then there was (and still is) Gary Wescott whose Turtle Expedition travel
articles were something eagerly awaited by all (the few) LROs in the States.
He had a really bitchin' 109 NADA with a Scotty-conversion Chevy six.  And
every safari gadget you could imagine.  Very cool, very colorful.  Then the
shit hit the fan!  He seemingly got "bought out" by big sponsors and got a
Ford pickup (he's on about his fourth one now, I think) to replace the
Land-Rover.  Sad but he, like any of us, must move on, meet his own needs
and preferences.  I could accept that.  Where he became a serious jerk was
by writing that most infamous of articles, "So You Want to Own a
Land-Rover?" (quotes herein from memory and therefore approximate).  In that
article he unravelled all the years of worship he'd heaped upon his
Land-Rover and any shred of decency and respectibility he could have
retained with the Land-Rover community.  I hope it was worth it to him.  His
articles I've found pretty boring ever since.

If you don't get my drift by now, take note:  It's better to see one than be
one.  You know, like a purple cow.

Cheers,

Granny
2 Land-Rovers, 1 Range Rover, 1 crappy Dodge 4x4 pickup, and some non-4x4 stuff

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Date: Thu, 25 Sep 1997 18:00:00 +0200
From: Ronald Hoedemakers <rola@skynet.be>
Subject: Re: Mobile phones in USA??????

Christian Szpilfogel wrote:
> Actually, GSM is available in the USA but it is operating at 1.9GHz> yet with Europe. Canada will complete this in January.
> Also GSM is generally only available in major urban centres in the
> US and Canada as CDMA is becoming more prevelant over here.

You should ask your GSM mobile provider if they have a Roaming Agreement
with a provider in the US. In Belgium there's a provider, Mobistar,
which has such an agreement. 

Just call your GSM-provider support line.

Ronald Hoedemakers.
Belgium.

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From: Autoconv@aol.com
Date: Thu, 25 Sep 1997 12:25:41 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Re[3]: LT 77 trans install

Dave

We sell the LT 77 or R 380 to Ser III Transfer case kit for #325.

Regards
David Ashcroft

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Date: Thu, 25 Sep 1997 10:07:57 -0400
From: John_Benham@nps.gov (John Benham)
Subject: Re[2]: Pemex, t-shirt, loose front end advice needed

I think everyone has given you all of the loose steering advise, but
just in case, check your lug nuts on the wheels.  When I got my SIIA,
several were broken off which cased the wheel to axle to be a little
off-center.

Later,

John B.

 
 ADVICE NEEDED:  As the weather finally turns a bit cooler here, I ready to
 start working on the IIA again.  The front end is very, very loose.  In fact,
 it is a challenge to drive with all of the slack in the steering wheel.
 
 Marty Smith, our local LR backyard expect (and nice guy to boot) looked at it
 and said the ball joints need replacing.  James Howard also said to adjust
 the relay box  ... I think... (that was 6 months ago).  I also have new
 bushes (bushings?)  to replace the old ones.
 
 Anyone else have suggestions?  Your advice and expert comments are greatly
 appreciated!
 
 Later...
 Gerry Elam
 PHX  AZ
 
Gerry,

    Also be sure to check the drag/preload on your swivel ball housings' shim
    pack under the Railco bush. It's supposed to 12 lbs, and as long as you're
    doing the ball joints, the tie rod will be disconnected anyway and so it
will
    be easy to check. Proper preload will really make a difference on sloppy
    steering/wandering.

    Rgds
    Mike Fredette
    101FC

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Date: Thu, 25 Sep 1997 12:44:38 -0400 (EDT)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@nrn1.NRCan.gc.ca>
Subject: Re: Old numbers

On Wed, 24 Sep 1997, John & Sandy Cooper wrote:

> What happens when someone parts out a rig.  Are the numbers gone forever?

	Interesting question eh... :-)  Considering it seems possible to
rebuild various items to original with out much beyond a number plate (or
some piece of the original in otehr artifacts and maybe not even then) the
number plate can happily be reused.  You only problem arises when some
unscrupulous folks take the number off an older vehicle and affix it to a
newer in hopes of evading certain US regulations.  (Also seen this done
with a Mini.  At the first British Invasion in Stowe there was an orange
Mini parked next to me (yeah, as many know I like them too & have had a
number.  Still have one actually.  Needs restoration badly, though some
have remarked it is probably in better shape than the green beastie
<ahem>.  But back to the orange Mini.  This delightful little gem looked
identical to mine except in colour.  No exposed door hinges, some painted
bracketry that denoted where the Canadian bumpers had once been afixed.
Imagine my surprise when I looked at the tag and saw that this was a 1961
1275c Cooper S...  The VIN matched a later 1275S (they didn't make the
1275 in 1961), the year was wrong and the owner had been taken...  Of
course, she didn't want to hear this and got rather angry with me when I
pointed this out...  But there is a use of a VIN number.  I hear this use 
is similarly employed near Atlanta, Georgia on <cough> 109's among
other things...)

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Date: Thu, 25 Sep 1997 12:49:18 -0400 (EDT)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@nrn1.NRCan.gc.ca>
Subject: Re: Imports from UK to Canada?

On Thu, 25 Sep 1997, David L Glaser wrote:

> I called Canadian Customes and they told me that since I wasn't a
> Canadian citizen there was no vehicle importation restrictions, but I
> never got anythingg in writing.  

	Should have sent a letter then...  Rules are simple.  As a
non-resident you can bring basically anything into the country.  It gets a
temperary tag and must leave Canada within six(?) months (or some
specified period.  Not sure, but could quickly find out...)

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From: Michael R Fredette <mfredett@ptdcs2.intel.com>
Subject: attn Dixon Kenner
Date: Thu, 25 Sep 1997 10:09:02 -0700 (PDT)

Dixon,

    I sent my OVLR membership app and $ in a couple months ago
    but never heard back. Any ideas? Could you maybe do a little
    checking to see if they even received it?

    Rgds
    Mike Fredette

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From: WJMcD@aol.com
Date: Thu, 25 Sep 1997 13:11:29 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Oil Pressure

i recently replace my original eiro 2.6 from 1969 with the more modern (tic)
euro 2.6 from 1980. it has an oil coller which has two sending units. i
assume one is for pressure one is for temp. anyone know which is which? what
kind of indicators might they use..idiot lights or gauges?

if it helps, one is towards the bulkhead on the hose, the other towards the
breakfast.

cheers 'n' regards
bill

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From: "david alan swap" <95051210@95.humber.ac.uk>
Date: Thu, 25 Sep 1997 18:24:10 GMT
Subject: Re: unsubscribe???

Help! 
I've tried everything to unsubscribe!
It takes so long to read all the messages that i've not got time to 
rebuild "Gromit" a series 3 Lightweight.

Can Somebody help?

p.s. does anybody know where I can find a Rover V8?

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Date: Thu, 25 Sep 1997 13:42:47 -0400 (EDT)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@nrn1.NRCan.gc.ca>
Subject: Re: attn Dixon Kenner

On Thu, 25 Sep 1997, Michael R Fredette wrote:

>     I sent my OVLR membership app and $ in a couple months ago
>     but never heard back. Any ideas? Could you maybe do a little
>     checking to see if they even received it?

	Received and you are in the database I get from the the club
secretary (dave meadows - david.meadows@sympatico.ca).  Your address exist
in the eyes of US Snail?  (We  have one argument going on over a member
who lives in a town Canada Post refuses to acknowkedge exists (Hamner
Ontario if you are curious))  Hey, your better off than one chap who sent
in his membership, gave his name, but never bothered to give us a mailing
address, phone number, etc...  I'll send you the past couple issues in
lieu of US Snail being sympathetic to your NW USA fishermen and the big
bad British Comumbia where the mail probably crosses from...

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From: CIrvin1258@aol.com
Date: Thu, 25 Sep 1997 14:27:15 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Landy vs Eugene the Jeep

Jim,

I'm not going to flame you, BUT...

My point in re-visiting the 30-year old article, is that the same comparison
is always being made over, and over. I agree, that if you want a vehicle that
is cheap, parts aplenty at every street corner (and also cheap), has many
creature comforts, and will rarely be used off-road, then a 4x4 of the
domestic or asian variety will do.

I personally, would have gone for a Land Cruiser, but I like English cars,
and a Land Cruiser in a yard full of MG's, TR's, and Mini's, just doesn't
work. (plus, there's the added cost of buying Metric tools) There's also the
factor that it took me a while to find a Land Rover that was in my price
range - but it was well worth the wait. No matter what the other guy has for
sale, the "so ugly that it's cool" look of the Series Land Rover wins out
every time, not to mention its off-road ability "out of the box", with no
modifications needed.

I've driven Land Cruisers, Jeeps (due to past Air Force experience, I have
tons of hours in M38's, and Mighty Mites), Troopers, Blazers, Patrols, and a
few that never made it to the USA, and in the end, I'll still take my 109
over them all.

BTW - Toyota Fj40's ARE still in production - they're just not sold here
anymore, in favor of the top-of-the-line model.

Charles (still looking for good cat recipies)

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From: MRogers315@aol.com
Date: Thu, 25 Sep 1997 15:27:23 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Off Road Fun Days

The Breckland Land Rover Club is holding a fun weekend on October 25/26th to
which all four wheelers are invited. The site will be open ( for a small fee
) to none members on both days to come along and enjoy using there 4X4 on a
challenging course with club members on hand to give help and tuition to the
inexperienced. the emphasis will be on safety with lots of fun thrown in. On
Saturday night the clubs favorite band will be playing in the beer tent.

This will all take place at Bircham Newton ( between Kings Lynn and Fakenham
in Norfolk )
The site is an old air base now used by the Construction Industry Training
Board to teach folk how to opperate heavy earth moving equipment. Half the
old airfield is torn up and moved around all the time and makes an exelent
off road course.

Please Email me direct if you wish to know more. I am posting this to the
International list as well in case any of you internationalists are stuck in
the UK that weekend with nothing to do.

Mike Rogers

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From: QROVER80@aol.com
Date: Thu, 25 Sep 1997 15:35:46 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Last IIa ?

Ok what is the newest landrover IIa 88 any one has seen. I have 24444998H
Declared manufactured 6/71 and I wonder how many were made after this one. 
Rgds Quintin

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Date: Thu, 25 Sep 1997 12:50:51 -0700
From: "Christopher H. Dow" <dow@thelen.org>
Subject: Re: Last IIa ?

QROVER80@aol.com wrote:
> Ok what is the newest landrover IIa 88 any one has seen. I have 24444998H
> Declared manufactured 6/71 and I wonder how many were made after this one.
> Rgds Quintin

There's a Bay Area LRO that has a IIa made in late '71.  I don't
remember the month, but Nov comes to mind (very low confidence in it,
though).  I constantly look at it and see a SIII.  The dash isn't
'fancy' though.  The engine bay appears indestinguishable from a III.

C

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From: RoverNut@aol.com
Date: Thu, 25 Sep 1997 16:00:03 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: 

In a message dated 97-09-23 07:01:43 EDT, you write:

<< I'm curious about this "golf balls and dipsticks" thing. >>

The dipstick thing probably needs no explanation, but one fella on the list
dropped a golf ball down into his tank. It was relitively quiet 'til he was
about out of gas, then it would roll around and *clonk*. Situation solved.

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From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Subject: RE: Last IIa ?
Date: Thu, 25 Sep 1997 13:00:53 -0700

I once checked out an 88" that was advertized as a 1972 IIA.  Once I saw
how rusty it was, I didn't dig any further.  The interior was definitely
IIA.

I seems to me that LR's change rather slowly over the years around a
series number change.  My 1961 series II (s/n 144101239) is identical in
every key area that I know to look for, to a friends 1963 IIA.

Paul.

>-----Original Message-----
>From:	Christopher H. Dow [SMTP:dow@thelen.org]
>Sent:	Thursday, September 25, 1997 12:51 PM
>To:	lro@playground.sun.com
>Subject:	Re: Last IIa ?

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 15 lines)]
>'fancy' though.  The engine bay appears indestinguishable from a III.
>C

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From: RoverNut@aol.com
Date: Thu, 25 Sep 1997 16:01:08 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Fwd: 

From: AlexMaiolo
69IIa
89rr
Re: Golf Balls
---------------------
Forwarded message:
Subj:    Re: 
Date:    97-09-25 15:57:31 EDT
From:    RoverNut

In a message dated 97-09-23 07:01:43 EDT, you write:

<< I'm curious about this "golf balls and dipsticks" thing. >>

The dipstick thing probably needs no explanation, but one fella on the list
dropped a golf ball down into his tank. It was relitively quiet 'til he was
about out of gas, then it would roll around and *clonk*. Situation solved.

------------------------------
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From: RoverNut@aol.com
Date: Thu, 25 Sep 1997 16:02:53 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Fwd: 

From: AlexMaiolo
69IIa
89rr
Re: Golf Balls
---------------------
Forwarded message:
Subj:    Re: 
Date:    97-09-25 15:57:31 EDT
From:    RoverNut

In a message dated 97-09-23 07:01:43 EDT, you write:

<< I'm curious about this "golf balls and dipsticks" thing. >>

The dipstick thing probably needs no explanation, but one fella on the list
dropped a golf ball down into his tank. It was relitively quiet 'til he was
about out of gas, then it would roll around and *clonk*. Situation solved.

------------------------------
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From: RoverNut@aol.com
Date: Thu, 25 Sep 1997 16:16:34 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Fwd: 

---------------------
Forwarded message:
Subj:    Re: 
Date:    97-09-25 16:14:25 EDT
From:    RoverNut

In a message dated 97-09-24 07:05:44 EDT, you write:

<< The problem is that this is a nut that is much larger than any spanner I
 have, and is recessed enough that I can't get a pipe wrench in on it
 either.  It also seems to have been torqued down by a Gorilla, so I don't
 think that I will be able to get it off with a pair of pliers. >>

I removed mine by *gingerly* using a pair of channel lock pliers. Mine came
free pretty easily; they sholudn't be that tight. If you tear them up taking
them off you can always buy new ones from BP, AP, RN, et. al.
Just don't tear up any hard to replace parts!

Alex Maiolo
69IIa
89RR

------------------------------
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Date: Thu, 25 Sep 1997 16:38:18 -0400
From: The Bickertons <Bickerton@compuserve.com>
Subject: LandRover World email address??

Hi all,
        Does anyone know the email address of LandRover World magazine. (=
I
daresay if I looked hard enough I could find an address for LRO, but then=
,
who wants to mail LRO??) It's not on the letters page, or in the part by
the letters page (often the most interesting part of the brilliant
magazine. Just read the small print...). If anyone can find it, I want to=

know where it is lurking. It will make abusing the officials of the
LandRover scene so much easier and cheaper than the normal snail-mail
stamp!
        Thanks a lot.

        John Bickerton
        Turnditch, Derbyshire, UK

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From: Rob Dennis <RobD@UnitedParking.com>
Subject: RE: An alternator that fits????
Date: Thu, 25 Sep 1997 16:39:22 -0400

I recently went through this problem myself. There are detailed 
instructions on a couple web sites, but the basics are: You need the LR 
alternator bracket from a later vehicle, and a small case GM alternator 
that has a double pulley. The problem was that I never found a vehicle 
Make/model for which to look up the alternator. I think I found two (Nova? 
/ Delta 88?), but they had single pulleys. It is possible to modify the 
bracket/alternator so that the single pulley variant works, but with the 
double pulley model, it is just a bolt in modification (except for wiring).

It took me thirty minutes of sorting through alternator boxes to find the 
necessary alternator, but I should still have the Pep Boys part number if 
you need it. While the double pulley variant is more expensive $40?, the 
pulley can be transferred to the standard version alternator if this one 
should go out.

=============================================================
 Rob Dennis
 Technical Director                (404) 658-9053 x102 voice
 United Parking Inc                (404) 658-9077 fax
 Atlanta, GA USA                   RobD@UnitedParking.com
=============================================================

-----Original Message-----
From:	JSmallals@aol.com [SMTP:JSmallals@aol.com]
Sent:	Wednesday, September 24, 1997 4:58 PM
To:	lro@playground.sun.com
Subject:	An alternator that fits????

Hello all,
Can anyone tell me the make and model number of an alternator that will fit
my existing generator brackets?  I have a 66IIA SWB with too many 
accessories
and the generator has to go!  I'm looking for an inexpensive unit that I 
can
pick up at the local parts shop.
thanks,
James Small
Denver, Colorado
66IIA SWB "Emmett"

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Date: Thu, 25 Sep 1997 15:53:09 -0700
From: jimallen@onlinecol.com (Jim Allen)
Subject: Re: Landy vs Eugene the Jeep

Charles,

        It all boils down to what you WANT and LIKE. If folks could just
leave it at that. I subscribe to a large number of different lists and the
general tone is "are are best - everything else sucks." Gets tiresome -
especially if you know the real story. Anyway, as of 4PM MT, I seem to have
escaped any major conflagrations from my tirade. Either nobody read it
or......
        Cat recipes! Grind up owner and feed to cat! Heehee!

        Jim Allen

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Date: Thu, 25 Sep 1997 19:05:18 -0400 (EDT)
From: Kathleen Hollington <kholling@nrn1.nrcan.gc.ca>
Subject: Re: Distributor installation question

On 1997-09-25 lro@playground.sun.com said to kholling@nrn1.nrcan.gc.ca
   >The thing to look out for is that you're actually on a firing cycle
   >(both valves closed), rather than an exhaust/intake cycle. If
   >you're on the right one and using an old Lucas 25D4 distributor,
   >then the vacuum capsule should be pretty-well parallel to the the
   >side of the block, and the #1 tower on the distributor should be
   >the right one toward the cylinder head, if looking at the
   >distributor from the side of the engine.
   >Once you're sure it's all OK, then pull the distributor back out
   >and put it on the bench - you don't want to take a chance of
   >damaging it while putting the engine in, and it's in a pretty
   >exposed place. Scribe/paint a mark on the distributor body and the
   >clamp, and you can put it right back where it was when the engine's
   >in.
Thanks for the good advice Alan, I'll follow it.  In so far as keeping
the distributor off until I have the engine in, I realize that the same
probably applies (if not more!) to the gas pump, which I've got on
already.  I'll take that off before dropping the engine in too.
Regards.
        --Robert

 
    Robert St-Louis - Ottawa, Ontario, Canada - 1968 LR IIA SWB

Net-Tamer V 1.07 - Test Drive

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Date: Thu, 25 Sep 1997 19:06:01 -0400 (EDT)
From: Kathleen Hollington <kholling@nrn1.nrcan.gc.ca>
Subject: Re: golf ball

On 1997-09-25 lro@playground.sun.com said to kholling@nrn1.nrcan.gc.ca
   >In a message dated 97-09-23 07:01:43 EDT, you write:
   ><< I'm curious about this "golf balls and dipsticks" thing. >>
   >The dipstick thing probably needs no explanation, but one fella on
   >the list dropped a golf ball down into his tank. It was relitively
   >quiet 'til he was about out of gas, then it would roll around and
   >*clonk*. Situation solved.
Haha, incredible (but probably true!).  That is what I figured the golf
ball did, but couldn't believe it.  It's this kind of imaginative
solution to a problem that fascinates me sometimes, "necessity is the
mother of invention" kind of thing.  I guess Rovers invite that as much
or more than any other vehicle, because of their nature, their
longevity, and the places people take them (remote, need to come up with
solutions to get out of a bind...)

 
    Robert St-Louis - Ottawa, Ontario, Canada - 1968 LR IIA SWB

Net-Tamer V 1.07 - Test Drive

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Date: Thu, 25 Sep 1997 16:23:22 -0700
Subject: Tranny Problems
From: manickam@juno.com (Joseph A Manickam)

Need your help with transmission problem that just won't go away.  Last
January, the transmission went out on my 1963 IIA 109 pick-up.  This
transmission is a suffix C (or it may be a suffix D) transmission which
means that it isn't original.  Anyway, here is what happened.

Prior to the first rebuild in January 1997, I heard a wobbly whining
noise from the transmission in 1st, 2nd & 3rd gears.  I had a friend who
has rebuilt many trannys rebuild it for me since I had no previous
experiences.  As it turned out, the layshaft bearing had worn out.  After
inspection, the gears and synchros were like new.  We went ahead and
replaced all the bearings, seals and clips in the tranny.  We also
noticed a long fracture and a small hole on the side of the bell housing
caused by a blown out starter sometime in the history of the truck. 
(remains of the starter spring was found in the bottom of the bell
housing adapter.  

After I drove the Rover for about 300 miles or so, I went to change out
the tranny fluid to wash out the residue grease from the rebuild.  Upon
draining the tranny, I noticed one of the layshaft retainer clips came
out of the drain hole.    My friend went back in to and reinstall the
clip.  Tranny was inspected for damage. None was found.

After driving the truck for a few weeks I noticed that the tranny would
keep popping out of 3rd. gear.  Not always but every once in awhile.  I
also noticed right away that when in 3rd. gear the shift lever would move
back and forth about one inch as I accelerated and decelerated.  All the
other gears were tight and the shifter didn' move. 

By spring time, the tranny would always pop out of 3rd when decelerating.
 Soon the popping out symptoms started to take place in 2nd too.  I
didn't use the Rover for a couple months during the summer since I was
out town.  After this, for the 3rd. time, we went back in  to the tranny
to take a look at what the problem could be.  We noticed that the
mainshaft locking ring had broken in two and  the mainshaft distance
sleeve had a fracture.  The sleeve also had grooves that had worn in 
from rubbing (slapping?) against the shaft.

After inspecting and replacing necessary parts and reassembly I took the
Rover out for a drive.  The first time I went into 2nd I heard a clunk. 
Nothing too loud or harsh but non the less it wasn't smooth.  Now I don't
have 2nd gear (except sometimes when I take it out first thing in the
morning).  It just rolls out when I let the clutch out or it won't even
go into 2nd.  3rd gear now grinds every once in awhile when it goes in as
if the syncho isn't working.  The back and forth shifting of the gear
shifter when in 3rd. is still there and has never gone away since it was
first rebuilt.  

So this is my tranny story.  As we go into it again for the 4th. time
what should I be looking for?  Is there something here that is causing
all this that we are missing totally?  We've just about replaced
everything we can on this beast.  I'm not sure what else to do within
reason.  When responding please respond to my personal e-mail address
because I often miss the mass mailing from the Major.  Thanks in advance
for your help and advice.

Shalom,  Joe Manickam
manickam@juno.com
Pasadena, CA
1963 109 PU

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From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Thu, 25 Sep 1997 19:41:28 -0400
Subject: RE: An alternator that fits????

GM alternator that fits:

1970 Chevrolet Nova with Air Conditioning (this gets you the double
pulley).

               Al Richer

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Date: Thu, 25 Sep 1997 21:45:12 -0400 (EDT)
From: 12/4/95 <rsloan@titan.liunet.edu>
Subject: Odds & ends

Thanks for the K&N stuff. This weekend maybe I'll do a few laps with the
original filter, then swap in the K&N (or better yet, have a friend put
one in so I don't know and then do some driving) and see what's better or
if I notice any "seat of the pants" improvements.

On the subject of a list comparo between LRs and others I have this to
say: I've driven my fair share of vehicles, mostly trucks : '69 Ford
Bronco, '70 something Scout, Suzuki Samurai, a jeep or two, a couple of
pickups, and hands down, the most all around versatile vehicle has been my
old bronco, superseded only by my Land Rover. There's a quality that's
kind of hard to put your finger on with a Land Rover- kind of like it
gives you a feeling of being tested and coming through. I loved my Bronco,
but it bows deeply to my D90.

On another note, I too was a volunteer driving nurses and doctors ythrough
a wicked blizzard a couple of years ago. The roadkill I saw was
impressive. 
2 jeeps, a grand cherokee, a slew of blazers, and a full size bronco. For
the two or three days I was driving, I saw a 110, two series vehicles, and
a number of rangies, all holding their own. One a**hole got his just
rewards- passed me like I was standing still, then I watched him negotiate
a drainage sump dividing the traffic and come up the other side airborne
and flipping. Crushed his roof in (this was a monster truck with the full
deal, neon roll cage, huge tires, bright orange shocks and springs, you
know the deal) Fortunately for this knucklehead he walked away fromt he
crash. Anyway, my personal observances aside, it's pretty obvious how we
feel about Land Rovers, and like I said, having driven alot of different
trucks around through a lot of different conditions, hands down Rover
takes the bone.

rgds,
Rich
D90
 

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Date: Thu, 25 Sep 1997 22:33:48 -0400 (EDT)
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Steering woes

WRT the thread on steering wobbles, I repalced the steering box two weeks 
ago.  Got a used one (no play) from a friend and swapped out the whole 
steering column, planning to rebuild the original 200,000 mile one at my 
leisure.  Anyway, the book said that you could pull the column *without* 
pulling the wing.  I didn't think it was possible, but it works.  All you 
have to remove is the front wheel to get access room.

      *---"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                  | 
      |     Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |
      |   "The oldest Rover-marque club in the Americas"   |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730    |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 757-622-7054 (Day) |
      |    757-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 757-622-7056    |
      |                                                    |
      *---1972 Series III 88"-----1996 Discovery SE-7(m)---*

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Date: Thu, 25 Sep 1997 22:33:52 -0400 (EDT)
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Hub nut spanners

Wayne Haight wrote that JC Whitless carries a socket for hub nut removal.  
Don't waste you monney...it's made out of *sheet metal* and bent virtually 
the first time I used it.  You have three options:

1) The chisel/screw driver/hammer bit, no doubt how 90% of the hub nuts in 
the world get removed (and buggered).

2) Channel lock pliers.  This works *if* the nut hasn't been already bodged 
by #1. 

3) A proper hub nut socket - 2 3/32" I think.  As Mr. Natural would say,  
"the right tool for the right job."  Most 3/4" drive sockets will be too 
thick to fit into the hub recess.  Last time I looked , RN had 'em in the 
$25 to $30 range.  As difficult a concept as this is for most members on 
this list - SPEND THE BUCKS and get the right implement.  It'll save you in 
the long run.  Cheers

      *---"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                  | 
      |     Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |
      |   "The oldest Rover-marque club in the Americas"   |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730    |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 757-622-7054 (Day) |
      |    757-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 757-622-7056    |
      |                                                    |
      *---1972 Series III 88"-----1996 Discovery SE-7(m)---*

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From: Franz Parzefall <franz@max.physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de>
Subject: Re: Speedee Sleeve
Date: Fri, 26 Sep 1997 07:57:53 +0200 (MET DST)

Andy Blackley writes:
| The "Speedee Sleeve" is a stainless steel sleeve, very thin. made to close
| tolerences, and coming in a wide range of diameters, to be press fit or super
| locktited on any shaft showing wear to restore oil seal function.
Sounds interesting. I heard about a similar thingy made of PTFE (Teflon)
that is put on the damaged shaft and than shrunken by heating it.
I was told it works well, but I've never seen one. Anybody who
knows more?

Franz
Franz Parzefall                franz@physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de
		   http://www.physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de/~franz
       _______
      [____|\_\==
      [_-__|__|_-]      Brumml, exmil. 1989 Land Rover 110 2.5D
 ___.._(0)..._.(0)__..-
                                  

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From: CIrvin1258@aol.com
Date: Fri, 26 Sep 1997 03:50:21 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Landy vs Eugene the Jeep

Jim,

Sounds like you need to do what I did last week - take off for a week-long
drive into another state, and become a nobody for a while. I came back so
relaxed (even after listening to my tires for 2000 miles), my co-workers
think that I'm sleep walking!

BTW - I forgot to mention in my "How I spent my vacation" post, that at Stead
Airport in Reno, NV, I saw a Santana 109 3-door, being used as a ramp escort
vehicle! Same color as my truck (desert sand), and I was able to snap a few
photos of it for future reference. There was also a bare metal 88" that was
driving away from the airport, as I was arriving, and we exchanged waves.

Also, on the airport, some local dealer is selling a lwb ARO! Where he got it
from, I haven't a clue, but perhaps, it was the same fellow, that had a
Ferret Scout Car on display.

Should I mention the Griffen-engined P-51?  Almost got the nerve to tell the
owner, that the last time I saw one of THOSE, it was the last time that I was
there (in 1978), and it went down just after winning the Gold Race, AND
setting a course lap record, but I didn't want to upset him.

Charles

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From: JSmallals@aol.com
Date: Fri, 26 Sep 1997 03:50:53 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: An alternator that fits????

The pep boys number would be fantastic...I am still searching...thanks,
James Small

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Date: Fri, 26 Sep 1997 10:58:39 +0200
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Subject: Beer
[digester: Removing section of:  Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="------------4DBEF8A13B6463FE1D0C1198" ]

For the ale-afficionados on the list, I have decided  to forward this
joke which I received today...

THE BEST BEER

After the Great Britain Beer Festival, in London, all the brewery
presidents decided to go out for a beer.  The guy from Corona sits
down and says, "Hey Senor, I would like the world's best beer, a
Corona."

The bartender dusts off a bottle from the shelf and gives it to him.

The guy from Budweiser says, "I'd like the best beer in the world,
give me 'The King Of Beers', a Budweiser."

The bartender gives him one.

The guy from Coors says, "I'd like the only beer made with Rocky
Mountain spring water, give me a Coors."

He gets it.

The guy from Guinness sits down and says, "Give me a Coke."

The bartender is a little taken aback, but gives him what he ordered.

The other brewery presidents look over at him and ask "Why aren't you
drinking a Guinness?" and the Guinness president replies, "Well, I
figured if you guys aren't drinking beer, neither would I."

-- 
Adrian Redmond

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Digest Messages Copyright 1990-2011 by the original poster or/and Bill Caloccia, All rights reserved.