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The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

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Date: Tue, 23 Sep 1997 07:46:07 -0500
From: "Spencer K. C. Norcross" <spencern@acr.org>
Subject: Re: chassis, engine and gearbox serial numbers

David Cockey wrote:
> suffix letters on components.

and often times, not even matching components! :-0

rgds,
spenny
Arlington, VA

1969 SWB, The Wayback Machine
1965 Ex-MOD LWB, Gromit <- Just add bolts  :-0
Land Rover - 4WD of choice for the Information Superhighway

Q. Why do they call it a kilt?
A. Because a lot of people got kilt when they called it a skirt.

------------------------------

From: Easton Trevor <Trevor_Easton@dofasco.ca>
Subject: 2CV Joints
Date: Tue, 23 Sep 1997 07:38:00 -0400

Richard Marsden says

I see a tin-snail joke somewhere...

So, what's 2CVs?

2cv joints=Something smoked by pharmaceutically challenged frenchmen.

------------------------------

From: Easton Trevor <Trevor_Easton@dofasco.ca>
Subject: British Car Day -Bronte
Date: Tue, 23 Sep 1997 07:45:00 -0400

A total of 31 Land Rovers were present in brilliant sunshine (in 14
years it has rained once) at Bronte Creek Provincial Park, joining 860
other British Cars for a record attendance at The Toronto Truimph Club's
big meet).
The Land Rover owners and riders enjoyed a delicious buffet breakfast
provided by TARC and Land Rover Canada. (LRC's cash TARC's organization.
Nine vehicles recieved prizes in various categories courtesy of Atlantic
British and Land Rover Canada. Dave Lowe won a valet kit for most
appropriately used Land Rover (AKA Dirtiest 101).Tom Tollefson recieved
a nice white (?) LRgear golf shirt for his sterling efforts at winching
the caterers truck from the ditch after the breakfast.
 Vehicles were :- SI 2, SII 7, SII 7, Defender 90 2, 110 1, Discovery 4,
Range Rover 4, 101 3.
Check the TARC web site for more pictures
http://www.golden.net/~tantramar/tarcmain.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Sep 1997 08:51:07 -0400
From: whetston@mail.ameritel.net (Stephen T Whetstone)
Subject: For Sale:  1964 Station Wagon, SWB Diesel 56k original miles

1964 Diesel SW 56k original miles.
I am 3rd owner.  Bought the vehicle as a project, and have not had time
to work
on it in the last 1 1/2 years.  I have over $8500 tied up in it.  I hate
to think about
selling, but with my 18 month old daughter I probably won't have time
for it in the
foreseeable future.

This is a project that needs completion.  Everything is there.
Full Safari Roof.  7 seats.  Kodiak Heater.  Original paperwork when
bought new.
The vehicle is currently in a rolling chassis state.  I have a full
folder of receipts from
Rovers North for parts.

Engine runs well.  Fires up in 1-2 seconds after several months since
last starting.
Rebuilt Injection Pump & original in box.  Spare set of injectors.
Needs valve seals.

Chassis has been reworked (new horns & rear crossmember) and painted.
New springs, shocks, axle seals, swivel balls, wheel cylinders, brake
pads, radiator, brake lines.
Factory Shop & Parts manuals.

Parts not currently installed
Foot wells, door pillars for bulkhead.
Seals for doors, top, etc.
Master Cylinder
Much more...

Vehicle is located in southern Maryland.

$5000 firm

Steve Whetstone
whetston@mail.ameritel.net

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Sep 1997 08:51:58 -0400 (EDT)
From: Russ Wilson <rwilson@usaor.net>
Subject: Re: Information needed

>I have just purchased a new 1997 Defender 90 (USA) 4.0 V8 / auto. trans.
>Really Really love the car!!!
>Any ideas where I can purchase a Hood (bonnet) deflector? You know the type
>that keeps the bugs / stones off the hood and windshield. Can not find any in
>the USA.

Any local 4x4 shop should have what you need.  They should also be able to
set you up with curb feelers and a full neon kit....

>Bob Wilkins
>bobflower@aol.com
>fax 609-464-2753
>Thanks a lot!
>the USA.

Russ Wilson
Leslie Bittner

Fort Pitt Land Rover Group
Pittsburgh's full service Land Rover Club

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Sep 1997 07:19:55 -0700
From: jimallen@onlinecol.com (Jim Allen)
Subject: CV Joint History

RE Joints-

        There are many methods of transferring power and we got some good
explanations of a couple. Here's a short history of "joints." This is off
the cuff, so forgive any minor errors of memory.

Cardan Joint- AKA, Hookes joint, Spicer joint, or simply "U-joint".
Invented in the 1700s but practical application didn't come until late
1800s and for autos, the early 1900s. Spicer was probably the first to
utilize the concept in mass production automobile applications. The
earliest application in a front axle of a design similar to today that I
have found is in the Livingood 4x4 Model T conversion dated 1913. The early
Cardan joint was largely unsuccessful in front axle applications because,
1) most early 4x4s were full-time in those days (Dodge was the first with a
part time in 1934) and needed a CV, and 2) the metallurgy had not advanced
to make them strong enough to survive severe angularity. They are not often
seen in 4x4s before about 1939. As mentioned before, does not maintain
constant velocity though its entire range of angularity.

Zachow Joint- Invented by Otto Zachow (one of the founders of FWD) in 1907
and patented in 1908. A variation of the Cardan principle but stronger,
larger and more complicated. Used successfully by the Four Wheel Drive Auto
Company (later simply FWD) in a variety of small, medium, large and huge
trucks into the 1950s. Not a constant velocity joint.

Double Cardan Joint- Invented by Arthur Herrington (of Marmon-Herrington)
in 1929. Basically two Cardan joints mated together to provide a constant
velocity, Herrington invented it for the front axles of trucks, and the
design was, and is still sometimes used in that application. Most commonly,
it is seen on driveshafts these days.

Rzeppa Joint (pronounced "Cheppa")- Invented by Hans Rzeppa, a Hungarian,
in the 1920s. This invention is the basis for the six-ball CV joint seen in
Land Rovers and many other 4x4s, front drive and independant suspension
drive axles. His original invention used five balls. After trying
unsuccessfully to market his joint in the UK (for a marine application), he
ended up in the US with the Gear Grinding Company of Detroit, Michigan. Art
Herrington saw his invention in 1929 and liked it so much that he bagged
his own double Cardan idea for the Rzeppas. Though a little tough to
manufacture, Rzeppas were much stronger than the Cardan of the day, but
could not attain the same maximum angularity as the Cardan (20 versus 24
degrees if memory serves). Rezeppas were uses in just about every type of
4x4 front axle from 1930 to well into the 1960s, when the Cardan became
more prevalent. The Cardan can still beat the CV for max angularity.
Rzeppas were used in the early Jeeps, Dodges, Marmon-Herringtons, Napco
axles, Spicer axles, Timken axles and many others.

Bendix Joint- A mid-30s ripoff of the Rzeppa. It used four large balls,
with a smaller centering ball. Used first in the 1937 front drive Cord
auto. Later used in Jeeps and other 4x4s into the 1950s. Though a true CV,
it had even more limited angularity than the five-ball Rzeppa.

Tracta Joint- Invented in the late 1930s, the Tracta joint was a  popular
piece because it was very simple and durable. Is not a true CV joint. It is
made from three solid pieces with pivoting slots machined in. Used often in
Dodges, and Jeeps, it isn't seen much these days.

Coleman (or Holmes) Joint- Invented by Harley Holmes for American Coleman
in the early 1920s, the Coleman joint was and still is a unique
application. A straight axle is used and the hub pivots around it. The
joint pivots in four places but looks like a giant gimbal. The Coleman axle
was used into the 1980s, mostly in big truck applications.

Asam Turret Drive- Invented by Richard Asam in the early 1920s, it was
first used in the Freeman 4x4 trucks. Later Asam tried to market the system
as a conversion. Basically spur gears inside a housing (looking like a tank
turret) drove the wheels and the steering pivoted around the gears. It was
heavy and complicated but worked OK. Last seen in the late 1930s.

Twin Cities Drive- A 1920s design that used a driveshaft to each front
wheel and from there, a variation of the turret drive.

Alco Drive- Another variation of turret drive that used a worm gear
differential.

Duplex Drive (my name, for lack of any other)- Used commercially first in
the 1906 Duplex 4x4, though invented a few years earlier (about 1904) and
used in prototypes. The diff was mounted in a housing above a solid front
axle. Open shafts went out to the wheels and at the ends, a Cardan joint
was fitted. Outboard of the Cardan, a spur gear drove at the top of a large
ring gear that was fitted inside the wheel. Walter also used this system,
as did the Jeffery (later Nash) Quad, the French Latil and a number of
others.

        There were a few other weird application but I've bored you all enough!

        Jim Allen

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Sep 1997 14:29:36 +0100
From: James Curtis <JamesCurtis@Technologist.com>
Subject: Polyurethane Foam

*
*  In only three minittes this foam expands to 30 times its original size to
*fill and seal holes and gaps.  It cures quickly enough to stop water flowing at
*a rate of up to 80 gallons per hour.  Once cured, it won't shrink.  It also has
*excellent insulating and sound deadening qualities.  This self-contained foam
*comes mixed and ready to use in a 13 oz can that yeilds 600 cu in,  it includes
*two actuators.
*54315K51..........each $34.55
*

I am currently building a Hovercraft  (the Land Rover isn't leaking enough
oil to warrant taking to pieces yet )  and I am in need of a two part mix
(gunk + catalyst) Poly- Foam  I have only been able to source the aerosol
kind which is unsuitable for my application.

I am in NE of England...  Anyone know a supplier?  I do need a reasonable
ammount so I will consider mail order from UK mainland.

HELP!

Thanks in advance!

James Curtis  
                (Newcastle Upon Tyne)

E Mail - JamesCurtis@Technologist.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Sep 1997 13:42:44 +0100 (BST)
From: Philip Shotton <phil@iisc.co.uk>
Subject: Re: I Need Some Conversion-to-Alternator Help!

   From: Mike MacDonald <mmacdonald@laserdirect.com>
   Subject: 
   Date: Mon, 22 Sep 1997 10:39:42 -0700

   I'm looking for some help on this conversion to Alternator process......
<...>

   c)  I have an alternator installed (came with the Rover but wasn't
   hooked up) that has the FLD, IND and GND terminals marked.
   d)  I want this to be a neg-ground vehicle when I finish

Alternators don't need voltage regulators, it's all handled
internally.

All you need to do is connect the battery to FLD, the GND to ground,
and the IND to the charge warning light. The other side of the warning
light goes to the battery. Something like:

       +ve
        ---------------------------------------------- Rest of car
       |                       |             |
    |||||||                    |             | FLD
    ||||||| battery            |              ----
    |||||||                    O-------------|    |
       |                  Warning light   IND|    |
       |                                      ----
       | -ve                                  |
    Ground                                    GND

I you're trying to use the same loom my memory of the regulator
connections is slightly hazy. I know that E is earth, F is Field (on
the dynamo) and D is dynamo. I can't remember what A1 and A are (but
would guess that one is the supply and one is the indicator
light). Don't forget that the current output of an alternator is MUCH
higher than a dynamo so you're standard loom might not take it. My
series IIa has a heavy lead going from battery to starter solenoid to
alternator. Then the alternator feeds straight to the back of the
instrument panel for all the supply (one wire to the ignition switch,
one to the light switch). I don't use any of the original dynamo
wiring at all.

Hope this helps.

Phil

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Sep 1997 09:19:25 -0600
From: Rick Grant <rgrant@cadvision.com>
Subject: Re: Golf Balls and dipsticks?

At 06:35 AM 23/09/97 -0400, Kathleen Hollington, wrote
  Is there a cheap
>alternative that I haven't considered?

I got a "generic" fuel sender for my Sll several months ago from a NAPA
parts store for 20C$.  I had to make an adapter plate because the mounting
was slightly smaller than the existing tank hole but it wasn't a big deal.
In my case the dash gauge was completely buggered (by me) so I also
installed a "generic" fuel gauge for another 20C$

			Rick Grant

			1959, SII   "VORIZO"  

rgrant@cadvision.com	
www.cadvision.com/rgrant
Cobra Media Communications.  Calgary, Canada
Aboriginal and International Relief Issues

------------------------------

From: Lodelane@aol.com
Date: Tue, 23 Sep 1997 11:29:53 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: 2CV Joints

Non Non

Its what you smoke in your Citroen 2CV (aka Ugly Duckling) (BTW 2 CV stands
for two horse power - output of original engine).  The 2CV was the French
answer to the VW Beetle and was made out of corrogated sheet metal, and slab
sided much as our adored vehicles.  Also as easily repaired.

Larry Smith
Chester, VA

------------------------------

From: AKBLACKLEY@aol.com
Date: Tue, 23 Sep 1997 11:33:17 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Golfballs in the tank

Putting a golfball in someones gas tank was a favorite prank when I was kid.
I never actually did it to anyone, honest. But I did have a SAAB years ago
that started running funny one day, as if the fuel was being cut off. I
pulled the cover off the mech. fuel pump and found a buch a rubber band like
stuff. What the??!! It was also in the fuel line. I removed the sender unit
and looked in the fuel tank and found - a dissolving golf ball. So the old
trick actually worked. How long it had been in there I dont know, but I would
advise against such a bodge. A slightly safer bodge would be one of those
universal senders with an adjustable float arm which you can get at NAPA or
from Whitney. You'd have to play with it to adjust the gauge reading. Havent
done it myself, so I cant advise. Might be able to do away with the 10V
regulator tho'.
I also had the low reading problem on my former SIIA, which is common on
Smiths gauges I had several 10V regulators from scrounging parts in old MGBs
and swapped one in that cured the problem. Cheers. Andy Blackley

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Tue, 23 Sep 97 10:25:21 EST
Subject: Re: 90 wheels

>Thing is, I have a ser 3 with SWB rims. I'm going to 205x16's so which is
>better, LWB or 90???? Or.... are they the same???? Offset wise???

205's will fit the SWB rims just fine. The SWB rims are a bit narrower than 
the 90 rim.

later
DaveB.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Sep 1997 11:48:31 -0400
From: "BENJAMIN G.NEWMAN" <MEDONE@iag.net>
Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

LOOKING for fellow Rover enthusiasts in Maine. Spending a few more weeks
in Winter Harbor Me and would like to swap Rovers things.
let me know were you are
Benjamin Newman

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Sep 1997 12:03:32 -0400 (EDT)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@nrn1.NRCan.gc.ca>
Subject: Re: Barbed wire

On Mon, 22 Sep 1997, Dean Meyer wrote:

> different species? Hey, just look what happened when a Mini gave it up
> the chute to a Series I. Voila, a Mini Moke! Talk about having a hard
> time selling the puppies. 

	And the Series I's were so embarrassed that none showed up!  Guess
we have to watch what those "eight"-E inches get up to...  Can't trust
them anywhere I guess...

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Tue, 23 Sep 1997 12:38:01 -0400
Subject: Re: I Need Some Conversion-to-Alternator Help!

Phil says :"Alternators don't need regulators".

Errrrr.......not exclusively.

The older Lucas stuff (old Series IIa optional and the like) needs a
regulator, as do many of the older American adaptations that are floating
around out there. Wiring the field of an unregulated alternator high will
charge nicely - but won't shut off when charged. This could get toasty.....

Careful out there..... know what's on the other end before making blanket
statements.

This is NOT in any state a criticism....just an observation from one who's
been burned (literally!) more than once....

                    ajr

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Sep 1997 19:09:28 +0200
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Subject: Mobile phones in USA??????
[digester: Removing section of:  Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="------------E1FE589B589708B9E5F573B7" ]

Does anyone from over the pond know if a European (Danish) mobile
telephone for the GSM system will work in USA - particularly Alaska? I
guess that the Nordic system, NMT (Scandinavia, Greenland, Switzerland),
which I also have will be about as good as a glass eye, but what about
the GSM - any ideas?
-- 
Adrian Redmond

---------------------------------------------------
CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
---------------------------------------------------
telephone (office)		    +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)		    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data                +45 86 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)		    +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)                  +45 40 54 22 66
mobile NMT			    +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail			     channel6@post2.tele.dk
HoTMaiL (www.e-mail)	channel6denmark@hotmail.com
---------------------------------------------------
Visit our homepages!                www.channel6.dk
---------------------------------------------------
--------------E1FE589B589708B9E5F573B7

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Sep 1997 19:11:46 +0200
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Subject: Re: Polyurethane Foam
[digester: Removing section of:  Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="------------8F5C1B566F1E76A15B8B27A2" ]

I do a lot of work for a company which makes pre-insulated pipes for
industry, they use 2 component foam - a mixture of polyol and isocyanate
with cyclo-penthane as propellant. I don't know where they get it -
somewhere in Germany, but you could try calling them -

Løgstør Rør +45 99 66 10 00 ask for the production manager

hope this helps...
-- 
Adrian Redmond

---------------------------------------------------
CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
---------------------------------------------------
telephone (office)		    +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)		    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data                +45 86 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)		    +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)                  +45 40 54 22 66
mobile NMT			    +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail			     channel6@post2.tele.dk
HoTMaiL (www.e-mail)	channel6denmark@hotmail.com
---------------------------------------------------
Visit our homepages!                www.channel6.dk
---------------------------------------------------
--------------8F5C1B566F1E76A15B8B27A2

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Tue, 23 Sep 1997 13:15:37 -0400
Subject: Re: Mobile phones in USA??????

Re: GSM in USA:

Gotta say nyet to that one - everything here is going CDPD and the like.
GSM is not making any inroads in the USA - different infrastructure from
the old analog cellphone network that we work with here.

Sorry..... -ajr

------------------------------

From: "Alberto Guimar=?iso-8859-1?Q?=E3?=es" <deec248@tom.fe.up.pt>
Date: Tue, 23 Sep 1997 18:14:04 +0200
[digester: Removing section of:  Content-Type: multipart/alternative; ]
	charset="iso-8859-1"

subscrive lro

------=_NextPart_000_01BCC84C.7A1CAAA0
	[ Original post was HTML ]
	charset="iso-8859-1"

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML 3.2//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>
<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"Trident 4.71.0544.0"' name=3DGENERATOR>

</HEAD>
<BODY><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>subscrive lro</FONT>
</BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_01BCC84C.7A1CAAA0--

------------------------------

From: Solihull@aol.com
Date: Tue, 23 Sep 1997 13:57:27 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re:  "Land Rover" tires

I think Dunlop makes those, as well as Radial Rovers. Don't know why LR sits
still for that and gives clubs such grief about the logo. Go figure.

Cheers!!
John Dillingham
near Canton, GA
KF4NAS     LROA #1095
73 s3 swb 25902676b DD "Pansy"
72 s3 swb 25900502a rusted, in suspended animation
Vintage Rover Service, since 1994, where we say:
Land Rovers for Agriculture!
Land Rovers for Industry!
Land Rovers for Recreation!
Land Rovers forever!! D.V.

------------------------------

Subject: Re: Tropical roof for Defender ???
Date: Tue, 23 Sep 97 21:43:03 +0100
From: <mr@grant.media-gn.nl>

>2. I regularly walk around on the (tropical) roof of my stage 1 (and I'm
>well over the 80kg load limit :-( Does anyone know if its still safe to
>walk around on the roof of the current generation defenders?

I walk around on my defender but I'm only 75 kg. Just step on those three 
ribbles.
No pboblem at all.

Marc Rengers                                mr@grant.media-gn.nl
Westeremden, Holland                        
http://minerva.media-gn.nl/landrover
Tel: (+31) 0596-551334                      Pager: (+31) 06-59111461

 #=====#                #=========#             #=========#         
 |___|__\___            |____|__|__\___         |_______|__\___     
 | _ |   |_ |}          |  _ \  |   |_ |}       |  _    |   |_ |}   
 "(_)""""(_)"           ""(_)"""""""(_)"        ""(_)"""""""(_)"
    SOLD !!!
 1977  88" III 2.25    1987  110"  2.5         1968  109"  2.25   
 petrol    23-67-XB    diesel RH-12-PF         petrol unknown reg.     
                     going to be Hardtop
                  and 300 TDi (it is already)

also subscribed to LAND ROVER Owner International (great magazine)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Sep 1997 17:01:44 -0400 (EDT)
From: "William L. Leacock" <wleacock@pipeline.com>
Subject: Fuel gauges

James writes re fule gauges not reading at FSD ( full scale deflection )

 If you are sure that all is well with the wiring, the sender and the
voltage regulator and that the gauge is the right type for the sender unit (
some are voltage compensated, some not. ) then simply adjust the FSD at the
rear of the gauge. You will see some nuts on the rear of the gauge  which
are in slots and adjusting these can change the deflection. 
 Must confess that it is probably more than ten years since I did  this and
my memotry is not whatt it was but   YPYM & YTYC
Bill Leacock	Limey in exile
89 RR; 67 - 109 and  early 88.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Sep 1997 17:13:02 -0400 (EDT)
From: "William L. Leacock" <wleacock@pipeline.com>
Subject: CV v UJ

Frans writes What's the difference beetween a cv-joint and a u-joint?
Can any kind sould point that out to me? (preferably in German)

 A Universal joint  ( Hookes joint or Cardan shaft ) when rotated rotates at
a varying velocity,  these velocity variations are cancelled out when a pair
of joints are used correctly in phase. However on a LR fronyt axle only one
UJ is used, thus, particularly when  steering at  full lock the velocity
variations can be quite excessive, reulting in severe vibrations and
steering judder. To permit easy steering a Constant velocity joint is used,
this is a device with an arrangement of ball bearings which rotates at
constant speed. These joints are common in most front wheel drive cars.
 Incidentally the firsat Land rovers which where permanent 4 wheel drives (
48 49 ) used a constant velocity joint called a Tracta Joint,  thius is a
mechanical joint with  a seperate piece between the two quarter shafts which
is very strong.
Bill Leacock	Limey in exile
89 RR; 67 - 109 and  early 88.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Sep 1997 17:40:55 -0400 (EDT)
From: pscales@blvl.igs.net (P.S.)
Subject: Imports from UK to Canada?

I'm interested in hearing from anyone who has tried and succeeded (or tried
and failed) to privately import a Land Rover from the UK to Canada.

Peter
CFB Trenton, Ontario

------------------------------

From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Subject: RE: Imports from UK to Canada?
Date: Tue, 23 Sep 1997 14:53:06 -0700

I looked into the prospect of importing a Series III into Canada a few
years ago.

I was told that as long as the vehicle is older than 15 years, Transport
Canada doesn't care.  (The rules are different for importing from The
States.)  You will be charged some duty and taxes when it arrives.  The
vehicle must also pass a Motor Vehicle inspection in the Province of
registry.  Here in BC, that means that it must pass an emissions test
(based on the model year) and pass the usual safety tests (working
signals, horn etc., some standards also based on the model year.)  It
does not matter whether the vehicle is RHD or LHD.

Ocean freight to Montreal or Halifax ranged from C$1500.00 to about
C$3000.00 - shop around...

After adding it all up, I found that it was a little pricey for me.

Paul.
Victoria, BC

>-----Original Message-----
>From:	pscales@blvl.igs.net [SMTP:pscales@blvl.igs.net]
>Sent:	Tuesday, September 23, 1997 2:41 PM
>To:	lro@playground.sun.com
>Subject:	Imports from UK to Canada?

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 15 lines)]
>Peter
>CFB Trenton, Ontario

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Sep 1997 15:26:38 -0700
From: Michael Carradine <cs@crl.com>
Subject: Re: Imports from UK to Canada?

At 05:40 PM 9/23/97 -0400, P.S. wrote:
:
:I'm interested in hearing from anyone who has tried and succeeded (or tried
:and failed) to privately import a Land Rover from the UK to Canada.
:
:Peter
:CFB Trenton, Ontario

 No problem if over 15 yrs old, no restrictive reg's.

-Michael

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Sep 1997 16:45:05 -0800
From: slade@imagina.com (Michael Slade)
Subject: Re: Imports from UK to Canada?

Hmmmm,

Lesse, 97 minus 15 equals......

Just thinking.

Michael Slade
'90 RR
Portland, OR

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Sep 1997 20:23:16 -0400 (EDT)
From: Kathleen Hollington <kholling@nrn1.nrcan.gc.ca>
Subject: Re: Golf Balls and dipsticks?

On 1997-09-23 lro@playground.sun.com said to kholling@nrn1.nrcan.gc.ca
   >At 06:35 AM 23/09/97 -0400, Kathleen Hollington, wrote
   >Is there a cheap
   >>alternative that I haven't considered?
   >I got a "generic" fuel sender for my Sll several months ago from a
   >NAPA parts store for 20C$.  I had to make an adapter plate because
   >the mounting was slightly smaller than the existing tank hole but
   >it wasn't a big deal. In my case the dash gauge was completely
   >buggered (by me) so I also installed a "generic" fuel gauge for
   >another 20C$
   >Rick Grant
   >1959, SII   "VORIZO"

Thanks for the suggestion Rick.  If it worked for you it can certainly
work for me, and would save me quite a few $'s (a LR sending unit runs
for at least $90C new, and I don't even know if that's original or OEM).
I assume the generic one can plug into the stock LR instrumentation?
Regards.
        --Robert

 
    Robert St-Louis - Ottawa, Ontario, Canada - 1968 LR IIA SWB

Net-Tamer V 1.07 - Test Drive

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Sep 1997 20:48:23 -0500 (EST)
From: David Scheidt <david@math.earlham.edu>
Subject: Hub removal?

I am trying to replace a rear hub seal on my S11a 88.  It seems that to do
this, I need to remove the large locknut that holds the bearings in place.
The problem is that this is a nut that is much larger than any spanner I
have, and is recessed enough that I can't get a pipe wrench in on it
either.  It also seems to have been torqued down by a Gorilla, so I don't
think that I will be able to get it off with a pair of pliers.  Is there
some trick here, or do I need to break down and buy, beg borrowor steal a
spanner to fit?

David

--------
David_Scheidt@math.earlham.edu

yip yip yip yap yap yak yap yip *BANG*  -- no terrier

------------------------------

From: robot1@juno.com
Date: Tue, 23 Sep 1997 21:03:39 -0500
Subject: CV joints

CV joints or Constant velocity joints, are usually ball-and-cage
assemblies that transmit rotary motion at a constant velocity at any
angle. U-joints, or spiders, or t-joints, or whatever you want to call
them, transmit rotary motion at a constant velocity only when they are
absolutely straight. Contrary to popular thought, U joints are not gear
reductions, the same rotary motion put in comes out; 10 rpm in equals 10
rpm out. The diffierence is minuscule. What happens is this: When you
angle the joint, say, 30 degrees, and rotate the input shaft, say, 10
degrees, the output shaft will only rotate, say, 9.8 degrees. Hence,
constantly varying velocity. The difference in input to output revolution
varies in a sine wave; the in/out ratio first goes down, then begins to
move up, becomes equal at 45degrees, continues up, drops down again to
become equal at 90 degrees, and so on. (There is a formula to calculate
this, but who the hell cares?) This can be effectively canceled by
placing two joints at right angles (180 degrees out of phase) to one
another. If they aren't phased correctly it can cause a minute but
hightly destructive pulsation that is hell on transmission gears. 

The reason CV jonts are used in Front wheel drive carsis that they are
very, very inexpensive to make. They can also be equipped with the
necesary sliding members that allow them to telescope but this is NOT
part of the CV joint, just an inexpensive addition. 

Sorry for the long winded posting. I deal with this stuff daily, I just
don't know any german, so mail me off the list if you want and I'll fill
ya in but in english only.

Mark

------------------------------

From: Allan Smith <smitha@candw.lc>
Subject: torquing
Date: Tue, 23 Sep 1997 22:12:07 -0300

Hi all - can someone explain the physics of the torquing procedure that involves a 
start to a given Nm or ft-lb tightness, then follows with continuing through an angle?

As per the workshop manual, I'm about to do this double procedure on my crankshaft 
pulley after I replace the timing belt on the Tdi. I'm happy to follow 
instructions but, probably, like all Series I-IV owners I like to know the 
rationale behind these advisories. 
Cheers
Allan.

Allan Smith
Caribbean Natural Resources Institute
Vieux Fort
St. Lucia, West Indies.
Tel +(758) 454 6060
Fax +(758) 454 5188

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Sep 1997 20:25:10 -0600
From: Rick Grant <rgrant@cadvision.com>
Subject: Re: Golf Balls and dipsticks?

At 08:23 PM 23/09/97 -0400, Kathleen Hollington, wrote

>I assume the generic one can plug into the stock LR instrumentation?
>Regards.

Sorry, no Robert.  All the ones I've seen are 2" or so diameter and fit
either into a hole you bore into the dash or are secured by a bracket to
wherever you have open space such as next to the steering wheel.  I can't
remember whether you said if your gauge is operable but I suppose you could
try hooking the generic sender to the original gauge and seeing what happens.

 

			Rick Grant

			1959, SII   "VORIZO"  

rgrant@cadvision.com	
www.cadvision.com/rgrant
Cobra Media Communications.  Calgary, Canada
Aboriginal and International Relief Issues

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Sep 1997 22:27:10 -0400 (EDT)
From: Hank Rutherford <ruthrfrd@borg.com>
Subject: Filled tires

On Sept 20, Malcolm wrote:

>I wonder what some ballast in the rear tires would do for weight
distribution?  Unsprung weight?<

    The whole reason for "calcium" in the rear tires of tractors IS weight
distribution. Traction, in this case, is directly proportional to the weight
(mass) over the rear contact patch. And the volume of a tractor tire is
considerable, hence the improved traction.
    As for unsprung weight, the suspension of a tractor is in the tire
sidewalls only: there are no other springs at work. That makes the outer
half of the tire casing and about 50% of the fluid inside "unsprung weight",
i.e. between the spring and the road. Sprung weight is that part of the
vehicle >suspended< by the spring. On high performance vehicles that go
around corners, great efforts are made to minimize >unsprung weight< to
allow the suspension to do it's job of absorbing the changes in the road
surface while keeping the tires pointed in the proper direction. Tractors
are not usually known for their top speed, hence they can get away with
filled tires. Land-Rovers may not be known for their prowess on road racing
courses, but filled tires would be suicidal at speeds over 30 mph. In
addition to the unsprung weight problem, there is the rotating mass of at
least 125(?) lbs per corner to consider. Most of the meager braking
abilities of a pre-boost braking system would be used up just stopping the
heavy tires from rotating. But then again, if the brakes Were up to the job,
traction would be fantastic! 
     Just another opinion,     Ruthrfrd@borg.com 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Sep 1997 23:50:22 -0400
From: Jeff Goldman <roverboy@gis.net>
Subject: Re: Hub removal?

At 08:48 PM 9/23/97 -0500, you wrote:

>I am trying to replace a rear hub seal on my S11a 88.  It seems that to do
>this, I need to remove the large locknut that holds the bearings in place.
>The problem is that this is a nut that is much larger than any spanner I
>have, and is recessed enough that I can't get a pipe wrench in on it
>either.  It also seems to have been torqued down by a Gorilla, so I don't
>think that I will be able to get it off with a pair of pliers.  Is there
>some trick here, or do I need to break down and buy, beg borrowor steal a
>spanner to fit?

	There are two ways I know of for getting the hubnut off. One is the proper
way, that is buy the special tool from one of the parts houses. It's a
large, well hubnut socket.
	The second way is the not so proper method. Take a chisel and hammer a
groove into the outer edge and try to dislodge it that way. Remember, of
course, to flatten the locking washer so the nut can actually move. On
replacement, don't tighten it so much. Common practise is to tighten the
inner nut while rotating the hub assembly to ensure a good fit and seal.
Then tighten the outer nut to finger tightness and lock it in place with
the tabbed lock-washer.
	Good luck...

Jeff G.

Boston, MA
1971 88" Series IIA Land Rover
1990 Range Rover County (ask about parts)
1990 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
1991 Range Rover Hunter 

------------------------------

From: "j ron sutcliffe" <jurixsys@alaska.net>
Subject: Re: Hub removal?
Date: Tue, 23 Sep 1997 21:11:53 -0800

British PAcific just sold me the proper tool to get the hub nut off.  It's
a 2 1/16 socket or something
like that.  $34.  Worth every $%^#$%@ dime.   I had to put a pipe on the
breaker bar and beat on it
but I got it off.  

----------
> >I am trying to replace a rear hub seal on my S11a 88.  It seems that to

do
> >this, I need to remove the large locknut that holds the bearings in
place.
> > Boston, MA
> 1971 88" Series IIA Land Rover
> 1990 Range Rover County (ask about parts)
> 1990 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
> 1991 Range Rover Hunter 

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 23 Aug 1997 08:42:06 +0200
From: Jan Schokker <janjan@xs4all.nl>
Subject: Re: CV Joint History

At 07:19 23-9-97 -0700, you wrote:

>        There were a few other weird application but I've bored you all enough!
>        Jim Allen

No, you didn't! Thanks,
Jan.

------------------------------

From: "Ron Beckett" <hillman@bigpond.com>
Subject: Major's Visit to Sydney
Date: Wed, 24 Sep 1997 17:50:25 +1000

Sorry to copy to the RRO and LRO lists as well but I'm not sure if all
Aussie readers are also on the AU-LRO list

AS some of you are aware Bill Caloccia (the Major himself) will be visiting
Sydney for a few weeks and would like to be invloved in some LR activity. 
I have suggested we have a get together of the AU list members with Bill
for a few ales and there seems to be some interest.  If there are others
not on the AU-LRO list that would like to join with us, let us know.

> having bought a Tdi a couple of months ago. It's more fun than lots, but
> not everything ;-). I have just applied to join LROC and intend doing the
> same for RROC

Tdi Defender or Disco?  The RROC accepts only Discos and Rangies.

> and would enjoy meeting some hard core LR owners in a social
> setting. Having Bill present would be a definite bonus.

Agreed.  I have had an email from Phil Carkagis (President of the LROC) and
he'd like to do the same.  He is away until next weekend.

If there is the interest, could we start considering venues and dates.  I
suggest early next week to get in before the long weekend.  Any
suggestions?  Not being a drinker (except wine with dinner) I don't know of
any suitable places.  For simplicity for Bill, I suggest somewhere around
Wynyard (Sydney not Tasmania!)

Ron Beckett

 

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