Land Rover Owner Message Digest Contents

[ First Message Last | Table of Contents | <- Digest -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

Send Submissions Land-Rover-Owner@Land-Rover.Team.Net

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Mon, 22 Sep 97 08:23:19 EST
Subject: Re: Parabolic springs/lt77 trans install

 Also has anyone ever installed a
full time transfer box in a series ??? (yes, I know about stage 1 s111's)
do the u-joints hold up okay ?  Thanks much!!  Cheers,  Allan J.   1973
S111 88''   "Belle"

You mean the front axle UJ's? If yes then the answer is that the Stage 1 had CV 
joints in the front halfshafts. The stage 1 axle shoud fit straight up to an 88,
but it'll likely be RHD so you'll have to do a bit of swapping. Also you could 
probably swap out the diffs (or just the carrier) and halfshafts if that's all 
you wanted to do (it'd save on shipping form the uk).

What'd you do w/ your stock springs?

later
Dave

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Sep 1997 09:03:52 -0400 (EDT)
From: kelliott@intranet.ca (Keith Elliott)
Subject: Engines

Has anyone got a spare 2.25 engine in good running condition that they would
like to part with? I have just found out that mine is in need of a rebuild
before going another foot :~( I would like to see the prices that people
would like for an engine so I could see if it is financially viable to buy a
used one to have my LR on the road while I rebuild the original block.

Thanks
Keith

'61 Series II 88"
Ottawa

------------------------------

From: RoverNut@aol.com
Date: Mon, 22 Sep 1997 09:25:52 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re:ar X-members

This is an area where I'd save the money. The chances of a rear cross-member
failing and leaving you stranded is about as likely as all of us winning the
lottery and taking our winnings to start a Land Rover-only compounded
community (a la Waco).

I've bought new frame pieces from Brit. Pac., all after market and they are
fine. Steel is steel in this case, save the OEM for the crucial bits.

Incidentally, my rear X-mem. is a tall thin I-beam the PO fashioned. It's a
great rear step, it's beefy as hell, and I think he made it for my favorite
price: free dollars and free cents. 

Alex Maiolo
89 RR
69 IIa

------------------------------

From: RoverNut@aol.com
Date: Mon, 22 Sep 1997 09:31:48 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

In a message dated 97-09-22 06:59:07 EDT, you write:

<< My gas gauge only reads to the half full mark.  This happens on both the
 regular and auxilliary tanks. >>

If it's not the sender, its the voltage regulator.
Change the VR first regardless since it's only about an $18 part. It mounts
in your instrument panel cavity in minutes and after 30 or so years, you
probably need to replace it. If that doesn't do it, try the sender or some of
the many other solutions involving golf balls and dipsticks that I've heard
on this list.
Alex Maiolo
89 RR
69 IIa

------------------------------

From: RoverNut@aol.com
Date: Mon, 22 Sep 1997 09:39:41 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

In a message dated 97-09-22 06:59:07 EDT, you write:

<< The other question concerns front wheel seals.  >>

Did he use the fancy double-lipped ones? When he put them on did he lube the
lip with a little rubber grease to prevent tearing? I've done a few of these
and it always goes pretty smoothly, although the rears are MUCH easier.
Alex Maiolo
89RR
69IIa

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Sep 97 14:30:44 UT
From: "David Hope" <davidjhope@classic.msn.com>
Subject: Filling a frame with foam

A good frame and body shop advised me that the best way to prevent further 
rust inside the frame of my 64 llA is to have it filled with foam - the kind 
injected into cavity walls to provide insulation and sound deadening.  Any 
views  on this nonreversible step?

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Mon, 22 Sep 1997 10:43:21 -0400
Subject: Re: Filling a frame with foam

Only if you really want it to rust....most of these foams will entrap
moisture and not eliminate it.

Waxoyl, or a similar compound, is your best bet. Never do anything
irrevocable.

                    ajr

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 20 Sep 97 06:30:27 UT
From: "K. JOHN WOOD" <JWROVER@classic.msn.com>
Subject: 2.25l rebuildable FOR SALE

		

1973 Series III 2.25L Engine For Sale

Mileage estimated around 150K
Rear Main Seal needs replacing.
Still runs!
W/ bell housing
W/ oil filler neck
W/ water pump.
Needs all other ancillaries
Located in CO. USA

$500.00

Contact John 
@  303-774-9225
Jwrover@msn.com
 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Sep 1997 08:11:59 -0700
From: Jeremy John Bartlett <bartlett@slip.net>
Subject: Re: Filling a frame with foam

David Hope wrote:
> A good frame and body shop advised me that the best way to prevent further
> rust inside the frame of my 64 llA is to have it filled with foam - the kind
> injected into cavity walls to provide insulation and sound deadening.  Any
> views  on this nonreversible step?

Seems like as good a way to guarantee rust as any :)
I doubt they'd get a good solid fill, and water would tend to
wick up along the junction with the metal and stay there.
Condensation water would also become more of a threat, I
suspect. .... no proof just my opinion.

cheers

Jeremy

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Mon, 22 Sep 97 11:56:44 EST
Subject: Re: Filling a frame with foam

>A good frame and body shop advised me that the best way to prevent further 
>rust inside the frame of my 64 llA is to have it filled with foam - the kind 
>injected into cavity walls to provide insulation and sound deadening.  Any 
>views  on this nonreversible step?

One word. 

DUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUMMMMMMMMMMMB!

Filling the frame with foam will no doubt make a nice trap for 
condensation, a nice sponge for water, a nice nest for rodents, and a nice 
fire hazard for welders. Leave it as is, waxoyl the bitch, and keep an eye 
on the trouble spots. A stitch in time as they say.

Then again, maybe the foam will help your Rover float.

later
DaveB

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Sep 1997 13:36:34 -0400
From: Mike Johnson <johnsonm@borg.com>
Subject: Re: Filling a frame with foam

David Hope wrote:

> A good frame and body shop advised me that the best way to prevent further
> rust inside the frame of my 64 llA is to have it filled with foam - the kind
> injected into cavity walls to provide insulation and sound deadening.  Any
> views  on this nonreversible step?

 I know I'm going to regret this...

Here is what McMaster-Carr has to say about "Expanding Foam Insulation" (pg
2764)

QUICK-CURE EXPANDING URATHANE FOAM
-temperature range: -40F to +175F
-color: light blue

  In only three minittes this foam expands to 30 times its original size to
fill and seal holes and gaps.  It cures quickly enough to stop water flowing at
a rate of up to 80 gallons per hour.  Once cured, it won't shrink.  It also has
excellent insulating and sound deadening qualities.  This self-contained foam
comes mixed and ready to use in a 13 oz can that yeilds 600 cu in,  it includes
two actuators.
54315K51..........each $34.55

So much for sucking it up like a sponge,  however it might be toxic if welded
on,  I don't know...

--
end
Mike Johnson
johnsonm@borg.com
http://www.borg.com/~johnsonm

------------------------------

From: Mike MacDonald <mmacdonald@laserdirect.com>
Subject: I Need Some Conversion-to-Alternator Help!
Date: Mon, 22 Sep 1997 10:39:42 -0700

I'm looking for some help on this conversion to Alternator process......

I have a '57 Series I that when bought had no wiring whatsoever.  I've
all but finished the re-wiring process and am down to just the leads
going to/from the voltage regulator.  I'm reading through the tech tips
I can find regarding changing from the generator to an alternator and it
doesn't seem to be as easy as some folks would like to think it is. 
(Either that or I'm making this much harder than it needs to be!)

I've gone through the Rovers North, Atlantic British and British Pacific
tech tips (along with some in the lro-digest) and they seem to be giving
conflicting info. If they aren't conflicting, then at the very least
there are two or three ways to perform this - and THAT doesn't sound
right either!

To run down the situation:
a)  I've a '57 Series I, wired up with a standard wiring harness, with a
voltage regulator installed.
b)  The wiring is set up per the factory tech manual to the A1, A, F, D
and E terminals on the regulator
c)  I have an alternator installed (came with the Rover but wasn't
hooked up) that has the FLD, IND and GND terminals marked.
d)  I want this to be a neg-ground vehicle when I finish

Is there anyone out there who:
a)  Has done this on an older Series vehicle
b)  Is willing to e-mail me back with their tips, and..
c)  will let me bug them with any other questions I come up with?

I'm so close to getting my beast back on it's feet that I can smell it
and I really want to finish this off, any takers?  If there's someone
getting the real-time questions who'd reply back today I really
appreciate it, but I can wait for the responses in the digest if I need
to.

Thanks,
Mike MacDonald
mmacdonald@laserdirect.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Sep 1997 19:08:34 -0700
From: Frans Diepstraten <frd@wirehub.nl>
Subject: Recognize 2.0 L engine on  sight?

Hi there,

I know I've asked beginner questions before but since nobody got mad, I'll 
try my luck at another one:

I know of a SII for sale about three hours drive from where I live (in a Ford 
Diesel Stationwagon, slightly more in a Series Land Rover if I read the 
posting on this group right). Unfortunately the seller isn't sure about the 
date of production: either '58 or '59. On the net I found that in '58 the 
SII's were still equiped with the 2.0L engine, starting '59 with the 2.25L.

Is there any way I can distinguish the two by just glancing under the hood?

He also told me that the car had free wheel hubs, "very exclusive on this 
type of car". I understood that most (all?) vehicles came without them, 
making this just an after market addition and less exclusive than he wants me 
to believe. Am I right?

Frans

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Sep 1997 10:16:41 -0500
From: "Spencer K. C. Norcross" <spencern@acr.org>
Subject: Sort of  LR Sighting

on my way to stowe this weekend: 
saturday morning, on the NY state thruway, a flatbed car carrier with a
teeter totter, land rover oval logo at the balance point. 

rgds,
spenny
Arlington, VA

1969 SWB, The Wayback Machine
1965 Ex-MOD LWB, Gromit <- Just add bolts  :-0
Land Rover - 4WD of choice for the Information Superhighway

Q. Why do they call it a kilt?
A. Because a lot of people got kilt when they called it a skirt.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Sep 1997 13:30:24 -0500 (CDT)
From: Steve Fullwood <ansdf@ttacs1.ttu.edu>
Subject: Waxoyl

IWhat is Waxoyl and is it available in the US?  How is it applied?  It
sounds like good stuff. Maybe I should get some for prevention.   

------------------------------

From: CIrvin1258@aol.com
Date: Mon, 22 Sep 1997 15:02:36 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: How I Spent my Vacation

Let's see here...it started on 06Sept. I spent the first week installing
parts onto my Land Rover 109 3door diesel, that I had ordered from England
(sorry guys, but you just can't beat the prices). By the morning of 13Sept, I
gave myself the "go code", and had decided to take said beast on a very  long
journey.

I departed L.A. at 2130, on 13Sept, and took highway 14 north to Ridgecrest,
where it runs into highway 395, which took me all the way up to Reno, Nv.
(446 miles) I crossed the stateline at 0557 on 14Sept, whereupon I decided
that if I want to make the last day of the Reno Air Races, I had better have
breakfast, then drive directly to Stead Airport! I stopped in Reno,
surrounded some food, then drove to Stead, and had a nice day (albeit in a
catatonic state after being awake for 25 hours straight).

That afternoon, it was back to Reno for a hotel room. The next day, I was off
to Gerlach, Nv., and the Black Rock Desert, to hopefully catch a glance of
Craig Breedlove's speed record runs in his jetcar. Not only did I see him do
a 300-400mph run, but I even had a "chance" meeting with him! (I went to his
media center to buy a few T-shirts, and we bumped into each other in a
doorway! Cool guy, BTW) I camped out in the Land Rover at Black Rock (nearest
hotel is in Reno, a whole 110 miles southwest). The afternoon of 15 Sept, I
had to leave for Las Vegas on highway 95, to visit a few friends, but had I
stayed at Black Rock, I could have seen Thrust SSC (Breedloves' competition)
do a few runs.

I left Gerlach at 1430 on 15 Sept, and made it into Vegas by 0130 the next
morning (about 530 miles), and stayed there until the afternoon of 20 Sept,
on which I left Vegas at 1430, headed north on highway 95, to Beatty, where I
picked up highway 374 into Death Valley. Here, i had originally planned on
taking this to highway 190 into Olancha, Ca., but I found that the scale on
my map was off (it showed the distance from Beatty as being 40 miles, but was
actually 114!), so I ended up taking highway 178 from Panamint Springs, down
to Trona, and then back to Ridgecrest, where it runs back into Highway 14,
then bacl to Los Angeles.

Total mileage was exactly 2000 miles. My fuel stops during each leg,
were...L.A. to Reno - Pearsonville, and Walker / Reno to Gerlach - topped off
my tank in Reno, and topped it off again in Gerlach / Gerlach to Las Vegas -
Hawthorne, and Tonopah / Vegas to L.A. - Indian Springs (topped it off), and
Trona, Ca.

Travel tips for any other Land Rover owners: PLEASE READ!
If leaving from L.A. and travelling at night (which much of my driving was
done at night), I had planned on stopping for fuel at Lee Vining, or
Bridgeport, but both towns are dead at night, and in Lee Vining, what gas
stations were open did not have diesel fuel. (ended up using one 5 gallon
can, to get to Walker - I should have stopped in Bishop) The stop in Walker
was open 24hrs, but the fuel is suspect (had to replace my fuel filter in
Reno, because the truck was running very badly - don't know if it was due to
fuel in Walker, or a dirty gas can). In Gerlach, there is 1 Texaco station
that has all fuel, including diesel, and there are 5 bars, and the population
is 350! It's by far the friendliest town I visited, and the Black Rock Saloon
has the BEST hamburgers! If camping there, the nearest store is in Empire -
10 miles south, so stock up there.

>From Gerlach to Vegas - I SHOULD have topped off my tank in Hawthorne (next
to Walker Lake - beautiful, BTW), because I was literally running on fumes by
the time I made it to Tonopah! (REALLY - I could only do 40 mph, because the
fuel pressure was going away, and due to the bad fuel earlier, I didn't want
to risk using the other can that I had with me) Hawthorne had by far, the
best diesel fuel on the whole trip (they even had signs on the pumps warning
not to use it in boats!). The leg from Fallon (where I picked up hwy95) to
Vegas - at night the ONLY open stops are Hawthorne, Tonopah, and Indian
Springs - even Beatty is shut down!

>From Vegas to Death Valley isn't a problem, because you have Indian Springs,
but from Beatty, if taking 374 to 178 there's NOTHING until you hit Trona, no
call boxes, no information booths, no pay phones, no houses - NOTHING! Make
sure your truck (or car) can do the trip, and that you have supplies (I did,
as I was planning on being in places like this), as you're in the middle of
Death Valley - and even at 1830, it was a good 80F there.

This info is especially important to Petrol-powered Land Rovers, because
their mileage isn't as good as the diesels are (that's why I grabbed this
truck even while my friends laughed at me), and I averaged about 22-23mpg.

Oh - there's good off-roading in Gerlach, too, AND, if you take the road that
runs northeast out of Gerlach, away from Black Rock, you'll find a dirt lot
that's full of empty CPU cases, most of which are bolted together! I don't
know why they're there, but they're in perfect condition, and there's a few
that are not bolted together, and so I came home with a free mini-tower case!
There's also a dozen trash bags full of motherboards and such, but since
everything is relatively clean, I have no idea of how long they've been
sitting there, so I can't say if they've been rained on, or not.

So, there you have it.

Charles Irvin
British Airways Cargo/LAX
1958 Jaguar XK150fhc
1959 Land Rover SII 88 Petrol
1962 Land Rover SIIA 109 Diesel
1969 MGB-GT
1980 Rover SD1

------------------------------

Subject: Re:  How I Spent my Vacation
Date: Mon, 22 Sep 97 14:23:19 -0500
From: Anthony Sanna <asanna@sacofoods.com>

Message received.  Thanks

Anthony R. Sanna
SACO Foods, Inc.
6120 University Avenue
Middleton, Wisconsin  53562  USA

asanna@sacofoods.com

1-800-373-7226
(608) 238-9101

------------------------------

From: JSmallals@aol.com
Date: Mon, 22 Sep 1997 15:23:46 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Low readings on gas gauge

Dale,
I have the same problem as you...When full my gauge will only read half.  I
have fitted two different sender units and I cannot  fix it!!! --It is not a
problem with flexibility of float, as nothing is blocking mine  (I checked
after reading the posting!)  I can only assume it is a problem in the gauge
as a friend of mine has the same problem also...interestingly enough, we all
three have IIA's.  If you finally manage to fix it, let me know!!!

regards,
James Small
Denver, Colorado
66IIA SWB--running strong.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Sep 1997 21:48:21 +0200
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Subject: Re: Filling a frame with foam
[digester: Removing section of:  Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="------------1BF37AC81C59B39ED3BBC630" ]

DON'T! I don't think this is a good idea!
-- 
Adrian Redmond

---------------------------------------------------
CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
---------------------------------------------------
telephone (office)		    +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)		    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data                +45 86 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)		    +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)                  +45 40 54 22 66
mobile NMT			    +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail			     channel6@post2.tele.dk
HoTMaiL (www.e-mail)	channel6denmark@hotmail.com
---------------------------------------------------
Visit our homepages!                www.channel6.dk
---------------------------------------------------
--------------1BF37AC81C59B39ED3BBC630

------------------------------

Subject: Re:  Re: Low readings on gas gauge
Date: Mon, 22 Sep 97 15:04:55 -0500
From: Anthony Sanna <asanna@sacofoods.com>

Message received.  Thanks

Anthony R. Sanna
SACO Foods, Inc.
6120 University Avenue
Middleton, Wisconsin  53562  USA

asanna@sacofoods.com

1-800-373-7226
(608) 238-9101

------------------------------

Subject: Re:  Re:  How I Spent my Vacation
Date: Mon, 22 Sep 97 15:04:54 -0500
From: Anthony Sanna <asanna@sacofoods.com>

Message received.  Thanks

Anthony R. Sanna
SACO Foods, Inc.
6120 University Avenue
Middleton, Wisconsin  53562  USA

asanna@sacofoods.com

1-800-373-7226
(608) 238-9101

------------------------------

Subject: Re:  Re: Filling a frame with foam
Date: Mon, 22 Sep 97 15:04:56 -0500
From: Anthony Sanna <asanna@sacofoods.com>

Message received.  Thanks

Anthony R. Sanna
SACO Foods, Inc.
6120 University Avenue
Middleton, Wisconsin  53562  USA

asanna@sacofoods.com

1-800-373-7226
(608) 238-9101

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Sep 1997 16:17:37 -0400 (EDT)
From: kelliott@intranet.ca (Keith Elliott)
Subject: Re:  Re: Low readings on gas gauge

Who is this Anthony Sanna and why is he so polite?!?!?!

>Message received.  Thanks
>Anthony R. Sanna
>SACO Foods, Inc.
>6120 University Avenue

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 16 lines)]
>1-800-373-7226
>(608) 238-9101
Keith

'61 Series II 88"
Ottawa

------------------------------

From: Michael R Fredette <mfredett@ptdcs2.intel.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel gauge problems
Date: Mon, 22 Sep 1997 13:31:05 -0700 (PDT)

On Mon, 22 Sep 1997, Michael R Fredette wrote:

>     In looking over the replies so far, there is one little gadget noone has 
>     mentioned yet. I had a similar problem on my first Serlll long time ago,
>     turned out to be the voltage stabilizer, part #148876. Mine was not working
>     and this caused all sorts of erratic readings. It's a cheap part, and is also
>     used by many other contemporary period British cars, so finding one isn't
>     too hard.

This is a pretty neat part.  It regulates the voltage to an average of
10V.  It is a little bimetal strip that opens a switch when it heats up,
and closes it when it cools off again.  If you hook it to an oscilloscope
and an variable power supply, you see a square wave, from 0 to whatever
the input voltage is.  Increasing the voltage Makes it heat up faster, so
it spends more and more time off than on.  If you are using a digital
scope, you can ask for the average V out, which is pretty close to 10V for
Vin of 10V to 18V or so.

On the SIII, it is attached to the back of the speedometer.  It controls
the voltage to the fuel and temperature gauges.  Does your temperature
gauge read funny, too?  Check to see if the regulator has a good ground.
That is the most common problem with them.  

James

----- End of forwarded message from James Howard -----

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Sep 1997 16:39:22 -0400
From: The Bickertons <Bickerton@compuserve.com>
Subject:  

unsubscribe bickerton@compuserve.com

( There's just too much too read here, guys. Bye! )

------------------------------

From: Michael R Fredette <mfredett@ptdcs2.intel.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel gauge problems
Date: Mon, 22 Sep 1997 13:42:26 -0700 (PDT)

On Mon, 22 Sep 1997, Michael R Fredette wrote:

     In looking over the replies so far, there is one little gadget noone has 
     mentioned yet. I had a similar problem on my first Serlll long time ago,
     turned out to be the voltage stabilizer, part #148876. Mine was not working
     and this caused all sorts of erratic readings. It's a cheap part, and is also
     used by many other contemporary period British cars, so finding one isn't
     too hard.

This is a pretty neat part.  It regulates the voltage to an average of
10V.  It is a little bimetal strip that opens a switch when it heats up,
and closes it when it cools off again.  If you hook it to an oscilloscope
and an variable power supply, you see a square wave, from 0 to whatever
the input voltage is.  Increasing the voltage Makes it heat up faster, so
it spends more and more time off than on.  If you are using a digital
scope, you can ask for the average V out, which is pretty close to 10V for
Vin of 10V to 18V or so.

On the SIII, it is attached to the back of the speedometer.  It controls
the voltage to the fuel and temperature gauges.  Does your temperature
gauge read funny, too?  Check to see if the regulator has a good ground.
That is the most common problem with them.  

James

----- End of forwarded message from James Howard -----

------------------------------

From: lenny@fof.coracle.com (Lenny Warren)
Date: 21 Sep 97 01:36:47 +0000
Subject: 90 wheels

From: lenny@fof.coracle.com (Lenny Warren)
Hi there /_folks_/,

What's the difference from a 90 wheel and a ser3 LWB or even a SWB rim???
Thing is, I have a ser 3 with SWB rims. I'm going to 205x16's so which is
better, LWB or 90???? Or.... are they the same???? Offset wise???

Catch you later,
/_Lenny_/...

_____________________________________________________________________________
                                                         _______ 
   Lenny Warren,                                    ____/_|(__)|
   Strathaven, Scotland, UK.                        |--|__|_--_| 
__ 1980 ser III 88" Diesel   _____" LURCH "__________(o)____(o)______________
_____________________________________________________________________________

 
... Warning!  Do NOT try this at home!  We are PROFESSIONAL offroaders!
--- Terminate 5.00/Pro /*Land-Rover*/ /_Best_/ /_4x4xFAR_/
--
| Fidonet:  Lenny Warren 2:258/1.12
| Internet: lenny@fof.coracle.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Sep 1997 16:32:43 -0700 (PDT)
From: gpool@pacific.net (Granville Pool)
Subject: Re: Recognize 2.0 L engine on  sight?

Frans,

>posting on this group right). Unfortunately the seller isn't sure about the 
>date of production: either '58 or '59. On the net I found that in '58 the 
>SII's were still equiped with the 2.0L engine, starting '59 with the 2.25L.

Some '58s had the 2-liter and some had the 2.25-liter (which is actually
closer to 2.3-liter, BTW).  I parted out a '58 which had the 2.25.

>Is there any way I can distinguish the two by just glancing under the hood?

Yes, it's easy to tell.  The 2-liter has a small valve cover and is a
cross-flow head, with the intake on one side (the right, as I recall) and
the exhaust on the other side.  The exhaust manifold points straight to the
side, with the pipe connecting to the side of it, exiting through the side
panel, into the wheel well.  

The 2.25-liter has the intake above the exhaust, both on the left side.  The
original exhaust manifolds on these (which are NLA and rarely still
installed as the broke rather quickly) have a convoluted exit so the head
pipe connects to the top, then curves to exit as on the 2-liter.  The more
likely replacement manifold (the Series IIA/III type) is not convoluted and
exits down, with the head pipe attached to the bottom, exiting the engine
compartment without entering the wheelwell.

>He also told me that the car had free wheel hubs, "very exclusive on this 
>type of car". I understood that most (all?) vehicles came without them, 
>making this just an after market addition and less exclusive than he wants me 
>to believe. Am I right?

You're right.  He's having you on, mate!

Cheers,

Granville "Granny" Pool
Redwood Valley, CA, USA
'60 SII 88 SW (African)
'73 SIII 88 (the Snark)
'92 RR County ("Ziggy")

------------------------------

From: RFHALVOR@aol.com
Date: Mon, 22 Sep 1997 19:32:46 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: trip report

see  http://www.sofcom.com.au/4WD/Places/SouthAmerica/Hal2.html

roy halvorsen

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Sep 1997 19:44:27
From: James Wolf <J.Wolf@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: tires/tyres

Today (9/22/97) on the way home I was tires on a chevy truck with this
logo, LAND-ROVER RADIAL D/T. I couldn't see a brand name. Anyone else seen
these?

Jim Wolf

------------------------------

Date: 	Mon, 22 Sep 1997 11:13:50 -1000
From: Wayne Haight <whaight@hawaii.edu>
Subject: chassis, engine and gearbox serial numbers

Aloha,

I got to wondering if my engine and gearbox have been replaced by a
PO... My 1970 Series IIA has a chassis serial number suffix "G", and my
engine suffix is "A" and gearbox "B". Were "A" engines and "B" gearboxes
used in 1970?

Mahalo nui loa,
-- 
Wayne R. Haight
Senior Fisheries Research Specialist
Joint Institute for Marine and Atmospheric Research
2570 Dole Street
Honolulu, Hawaii 96822

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Sep 1997 20:14:18 -0400
From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com>
Subject: Re: Recognize 2.0 L engine on  sight?

Granville Pool wrote:

> The 2.25-liter has the intake above the exhaust, both on the left
> side.  The
> original exhaust manifolds on these (which are NLA and rarely still
> installed as the broke rather quickly) have a convoluted exit so the
> head
> pipe connects to the top, then curves to exit as on the 2-liter.

SII 2.25 petrol exhaust manifolds were still available last year from PA
Blanchard. Much more difficult to find are SII petrol front exhaust
pipes.

Regards,
David Cockey

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Sep 1997 20:57:03 -0400 (EDT)
From: 12/4/95 <rsloan@titan.liunet.edu>
Subject: Funny little tab

Well, it would appear my mystery spring is indeed somehow related to the 
clutch, though at first, like all of you, that is what i assumed after 
gathering empirical data on my back in a most uncomfortable position, I 
couldn't imagine why every other pedal down there received two springs 
and the clutch only one. so I managed to convince myself that there was no 
way it could be involved with the clutch. Besides, the clutch pedal has 
what looks like 2 springs already, but more along the lines of a twisted 
piece of steel or something resembling one end of  a safety pin. So I got 
back on my back and saw on the front of the pedal arm a fnny little tab 
with a hole in it, where I figured one end of the spring attached, but 
for the life of me I can't find the other end of that. So God only knows 
hwere up there that spring mounts. Perhaps if I resume some yoga classes 
I'll be able to contort into such a position where I can refit that 
spring. Otherwise, to anyone with a bad charlie horse, the low range shifter 
can work wonders as a massaging knob, if you don't mind the black and 
blue. Amazing how heavy a leg suddenly becomes when it is not under you. 

Rich
D90

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Sep 1997 21:17:12 -0400
From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com>
Subject: Re: chassis, engine and gearbox serial numbers

Wayne Haight wrote:

> I got to wondering if my engine and gearbox have been replaced by a
> PO... My 1970 Series IIA has a chassis serial number suffix "G", and
> my
> engine suffix is "A" and gearbox "B". Were "A" engines and "B"
> gearboxes
> used in 1970?

Engine suffix letters restarted with "A" on 8:1 compression ratio
engines, so your engine could be original if it is a IIA 8:1 engine.
Guides to engine id include timing mark location, oil filter length, and
rocker arm bracket style. However all may be misleading if the engine
has been modified.

Very late home market IIAs (suffix H and later) used the SIII type
synchro gearbox, which also started with suffix A. If the gearbox is
synchro on 3 and 4 only, then it is early SIIA and not original. If it
is all-synchro then you have either a SIII trans retro-fitted, or a
major mystery.

What are the full serial numbers of engine and gearbox?

BTW, LR did not use matching serial numbers, or even matching suffix
letters on components.

Regards,
David Cockey

------------------------------

From: Solihull@aol.com
Date: Mon, 22 Sep 1997 21:31:18 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re:  Re: Parabolic springs/lt77 trans install

I have a set of cv equipped front halfshafts from a stage one, but the swivel
housings need to be clearanced to use them. They are ten spline on the diff
end and twentysomething on the hub end. self centering, so the big bearing
can go, has a seal that goes where the roller bearing was in the swivel
assys. I thought about putting 'em in Pansy, sure would be smooth, but she's
FS and the typical potential next owner wouldn't appreciate that kind of mod.
All they seem to care about is paint and upholstery. The two things left to
do. :-(
Cheers!!
John Dillingham
near Canton, GA
KF4NAS     LROA #1095
73 s3 swb 25902676b DD "Pansy"
72 s3 swb 25900502a rusted, in suspended animation
Vintage Rover Service, since 1994, where we say:
Land Rovers for Agriculture!
Land Rovers for Industry!
Land Rovers for Recreation!
Land Rovers forever!! D.V.

------------------------------

From: "MALCOLM R FROBES" <MALCOLMF@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Wading plug
Date: Sat, 20 Sep 1997 16:46:11 -0400

----------
Adrian Redmond writes
> Maybe english tractor manufacturers also applied this "what goes in must
> come out" principle - I helped a friends change his tyres on a Massey
> Ferguson, and when we got the wheels of, I couldn't understand why the
> wheels were heavier than my Ferguson - well, they were full of water -
> something about increasing traction when ploughing....

I refer again to one  of my favorite farm catalogues, Gemplers,
(http://www.gemplers.com), who sells the necessaries for ballasting your
tires with water, or as more practical in the colder parts of the world,
calcium chloride solutions.  Prices run from $7.95 for an adapter kit for
your garden hose to an air operated pump for $685.  For $11.95 you can get
the Farm Tire Repair Manual, complete with table on how much calcium
chloride to use for each tire size and resultant weight gain.

I wonder what some ballast in the rear tires would do for weight
distribution?  Unsprung weight?

Cheers, 
Malcolm

PS, no connection, etc., and I do not live on a farm, but it is a fun
catalogue.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Sep 1997 22:47:44 -0400
From: Dean Meyer <Dean.Meyer@internord.net>
Subject: Barbed wire

Hey Dixon,

Don't you know that barbed wire is to prevent unwanted intermingling of
different species? Hey, just look what happened when a Mini gave it up
the chute to a Series I. Voila, a Mini Moke! Talk about having a hard
time selling the puppies. Now you know that the other Stowe attendees
didn't want Land Rovers coming over and impregnating their trailer
Queens!

Dean Meyer

1964 Morris Mini Minor Traveller "Wanna see my woody?" - (won first
place at Stowe again)
1966 Austin-Healey 3000 MK III "The moneypit from Vegas" - (might have
to live outside for a while...)
1967 Austin-Healey Sprite MK III "The big block" - (may make it to
Hershey this Spring...)
1974 Land Rover Series III 88" "Kinabalu" - (now on the operating
table...)

------------------------------

Subject: Re:  trip report
Date: Mon, 22 Sep 97 21:53:43 -0500
From: Anthony Sanna <asanna@sacofoods.com>

Message received.  Thanks

Anthony R. Sanna
SACO Foods, Inc.
6120 University Avenue
Middleton, Wisconsin  53562  USA

asanna@sacofoods.com

1-800-373-7226
(608) 238-9101

------------------------------

Subject: Re:  Re:  Re: Low readings on gas gauge
Date: Mon, 22 Sep 97 21:53:41 -0500
From: Anthony Sanna <asanna@sacofoods.com>

Message received.  Thanks

Anthony R. Sanna
SACO Foods, Inc.
6120 University Avenue
Middleton, Wisconsin  53562  USA

asanna@sacofoods.com

1-800-373-7226
(608) 238-9101

------------------------------

Subject: Re:  Re:  Re: Filling a frame with foam
Date: Mon, 22 Sep 97 21:53:45 -0500
From: Anthony Sanna <asanna@sacofoods.com>

Message received.  Thanks

Anthony R. Sanna
SACO Foods, Inc.
6120 University Avenue
Middleton, Wisconsin  53562  USA

asanna@sacofoods.com

1-800-373-7226
(608) 238-9101

------------------------------

Subject: Re:  Re:  Re:  How I Spent my Vacation
Date: Mon, 22 Sep 97 21:53:44 -0500
From: Anthony Sanna <asanna@sacofoods.com>

Message received.  Thanks

Anthony R. Sanna
SACO Foods, Inc.
6120 University Avenue
Middleton, Wisconsin  53562  USA

asanna@sacofoods.com

1-800-373-7226
(608) 238-9101

------------------------------

Subject: Re:  Re:  Re: Low readings on gas gauge
Date: Mon, 22 Sep 97 21:53:46 -0500
From: Anthony Sanna <asanna@sacofoods.com>

Message received.  Thanks

Anthony R. Sanna
SACO Foods, Inc.
6120 University Avenue
Middleton, Wisconsin  53562  USA

asanna@sacofoods.com

1-800-373-7226
(608) 238-9101

------------------------------

Subject: Re:  Re: Fuel gauge problems
Date: Mon, 22 Sep 97 21:53:48 -0500
From: Anthony Sanna <asanna@sacofoods.com>

Message received.  Thanks

Anthony R. Sanna
SACO Foods, Inc.
6120 University Avenue
Middleton, Wisconsin  53562  USA

asanna@sacofoods.com

1-800-373-7226
(608) 238-9101

------------------------------

Subject: Re:   
Date: Mon, 22 Sep 97 21:53:49 -0500
From: Anthony Sanna <asanna@sacofoods.com>

Message received.  Thanks

Anthony R. Sanna
SACO Foods, Inc.
6120 University Avenue
Middleton, Wisconsin  53562  USA

asanna@sacofoods.com

1-800-373-7226
(608) 238-9101

------------------------------

Subject: Re:  Re: Fuel gauge problems
Date: Mon, 22 Sep 97 21:53:50 -0500
From: Anthony Sanna <asanna@sacofoods.com>

Message received.  Thanks

Anthony R. Sanna
SACO Foods, Inc.
6120 University Avenue
Middleton, Wisconsin  53562  USA

asanna@sacofoods.com

1-800-373-7226
(608) 238-9101

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Sep 1997 20:13:43 -0700
From: Granville Pool <gpool@pacific.net>
Subject: "Land Rover" tires

Jim,

>Today (9/22/97) on the way home I was tires on a chevy truck with this
>logo, LAND-ROVER RADIAL D/T. I couldn't see a brand name. Anyone else seen
>these?

I don't know who really makes them--perhaps Cooper--but I've seen a number
of "Land Rover" tires.  It's a brand.  I had an old set of L-78-15
all-terrain bias-belted on one of the Land-Rovers I bought and sold and
that's a long-obsolete size so they've been around for quite some time.

Cheers,

Granny

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Sep 1997 23:36:17 -0400 (EDT)
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Rear crossmember

Pete Kurzman has some questions about rear crossmembers:

Having just done that job last winter (outside - and I had maybe three 
weekends between December and April when I didn't have rain, snow, ice or 
the flu) here are a few tips.

First, don't get galvanized.  I ended up spending about half my time 
grinding off the galvanizing within 2" of where I was going to weld.  Sure, 
zinc is great as a sacraficial anode, but zinc also contaminates a weld, 
splatters like hell when it melts and runs down into the arc and zinc fumes 
are poisonous.  (I got a good dose of metal fume fever even *with* a big fan 
to blow away the brimstone.)  Paint it up well first as opposed to going 
with galvanizing.

Make sure you get a crossmember with "extensions".  Butt welds are probably 
stronger in the long run (no join between to rust) but lap welds are easier.

After you're done use some good primer inside, the Waxoyl the hell out of it.

      *---"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                  | 
      |     Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |
      |   "The oldest Rover-marque club in the Americas"   |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730    |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 757-622-7054 (Day) |
      |    757-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 757-622-7056    |
      |                                                    |
      *---1972 Series III 88"-----1996 Discovery SE-7(m)---*

------------------------------

From: Daryl Webb <dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au>
Subject: Rims etc.
Date: Tue, 23 Sep 1997 13:47:21 +0930 (CST)

Hi all, been playing with the web site mailing list archives :-)
spotted a question by Lenny Warren about rims...
As the oldtimers will recall i have a history of starting flame wars when 
it comes to rims so here we go :-)

The question  was about what rims to use on an 88 when 205-16 tyres were 
used ISTR.

I dont know the offset for the original 5.00 x16 88" rims but

the factory option for 88" was  5.5 x16 (pn 272309) had a 46 mm offset
(this is the same rim as pre-'68 109's)

Later 109's and d110, used a 5.5-16 rim with 33mm offset, the offset for 
the d110 *is* the same as the series III but the d110 rims *looks* like it 
is offset a lot more.

Rangie rims 6.00-16 and disco rims 7.0-16 also have this 33 mm offset as 
do the OZ army defender 6.0-16 rims

D130 have a 6.5-16 with 20.6 (or 22?) mm offset
 
All except the rangie rim will bolt straight up to the 88"
All except the original 5.00-16 rims will accept 205-16 tyres.

so it all depends upon what you want.
if originality is important  go for the factory specified 272309's

if price is important then stock series III 109 rims will probably be 
the cheapest.

If looks are important then D110 or disco rims are the go.

have fun.

(I'll chaeck out the flame wars in a few days  :-)
 
-- 

  Daryl Webb   (dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au)

------------------------------

From: Daryl Webb <dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au>
Subject: full time 4x4 in series
Date: Tue, 23 Sep 1997 15:25:03 +0930 (CST)

While it is true that stage 1's are supposed to be fitted with CV joints, 
there are a few here in OZ without, including mine :-(

Ours was built 12/82 as was at least one other similarly equiped stage 1
which I know of. Why no CV's ?  No idea i can only guess that the parts
bin was empty at the BPSL (Aus) factory.  I'm pretty sure its a factory
fit as there are a number of other unique features on our vehicle which
could only be the work of BPSL-A artisans. 

Oh back to the question.  AFAIK the original Joints are still there, we 
have done over 200,000 Km since we go her and the total distance is now 
probably up over 400K Km.  However I'm kinda allergic to front wheel 
spinout so the joints havent been flogged.  Still i guess I should check 
them some day soon...  (at least they will be cheaper to replace than CV's)

feedback through the steering is only noticable on near full lock turns, 
hardly noticable on the open road.  In really tight hilly stuff you may 
notice a slight kickback under WOT conditions, but nothing serious.

cheers
 -- 

  Daryl Webb   (dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au)
 (who is waiting waiting waiting for some stuff to arrive before he can 
get back to work...)

------------------------------

From: Franz Parzefall <franz@max.physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de>
Subject: joints
Date: Tue, 23 Sep 1997 08:11:56 +0200 (MET DST)

Hi folks,
I'm on this list for quite a time now and I have eliminated most of the
language problems but there is still one that isn't clear.

What's the difference beetween a cv-joint and a u-joint?
Can any kind sould point that out to me? (preferably in German)

Thanks,
Franz
Franz Parzefall                franz@physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de
		   http://www.physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de/~franz
       _______
      [____|\_\==
      [_-__|__|_-]      Brumml, exmil. 1989 Land Rover 110 2.5D
 ___.._(0)..._.(0)__..-
                                  

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Sep 1997 08:34:16 +0200
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Subject: Re: Low readings on gas gauge
[digester: Removing section of:  Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="------------6E33C6499F2DF344B0F14D17" ]

Anthony Sanna wrote:

> Message received.  Thanks

Message received at least 11 times, thanks.
-- 
Adrian Redmond

---------------------------------------------------
CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
---------------------------------------------------
telephone (office)		    +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)		    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data                +45 86 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)		    +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)                  +45 40 54 22 66
mobile NMT			    +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail			     channel6@post2.tele.dk
HoTMaiL (www.e-mail)	channel6denmark@hotmail.com
---------------------------------------------------
Visit our homepages!                www.channel6.dk
---------------------------------------------------
--------------6E33C6499F2DF344B0F14D17

------------------------------

From: Bobflower@aol.com
Date: Tue, 23 Sep 1997 02:27:17 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Information needed

I have just purchased a new 1997 Defender 90 (USA) 4.0 V8 / auto. trans.

Really Really love the car!!!

Any ideas where I can purchase a Hood (bonnet) deflector? You know the type
that keeps the bugs / stones off the hood and windshield. Can not find any in
the USA.

Bob Wilkins
bobflower@aol.com
fax 609-464-2753

Thanks a lot!

------------------------------

From: Bobflower@aol.com
Date: Tue, 23 Sep 1997 02:30:27 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: need information

Just purchased a 1997 Defender Station Wagon. LOve this car!!!

Any ideas where I can purchase a hood deflector? The type that keeps the bugs
and stones off the hood and windshield. Have had no luck on this one.

Bob Wilkins
bobflower@aol.com
fax 609-464-2753

Thanks a lot!

------------------------------

From: b.boehlers@olsy.dk (Bent Boehlers)
Subject: RE: Filling a frame with foam
Date: Tue, 23 Sep 1997 09:01:21 +0200

David Hope[SMTP:davidjhope@classic.msn.com] wrote:

A good frame and body shop advised me that the best way to prevent further
rust inside the frame of my 64 llA is to have it filled with foam - the 
kind
injected into cavity walls to provide insulation and sound deadening.  Any
views  on this nonreversible step?

Carefull, if You later have to weld on that frame, severald things can 
happen.

1. The foam contents inflamable stuf plus oxygen, it will start melting and 
then chach fire, inside the frame. You can do nothing.

2. As above, but there are small holes in Your frame, and You might get 
toxic smoke come out from the holes.

3. The foam will not burn because of lack of oxygen, it will melt, and 
build up gas under pressure. when the melting reach a hole, oxygen will 
come in and You might have a little explosion.

But if nothing of the above will happen, be happy with a frame, that have 
the ability to trap water from condensation.

Happy Rovering

Bent Boehlers

begin 600 WINMAIL.DAT

	[Attachment WINMAIL.DAT removed, was 43 lines.]	end

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Sep 1997 02:04:22 -0500 (EST)
From: David Scheidt <david@math.earlham.edu>
Subject: Re: joints

On Tue, 23 Sep 1997, Franz Parzefall wrote:

> Hi folks,
> I'm on this list for quite a time now and I have eliminated most of the
> language problems but there is still one that isn't clear.
> What's the difference beetween a cv-joint and a u-joint?
> Can any kind sould point that out to me? (preferably in German)

Franz,
A universal joint allows power to be transmitted through a system that
moves in one dimension, usually up and down.  You need to be able to do
this so your rear axle can move up and down on the suspension.  The CV
joint alows movement in two dimensions, up and down for suspension travel,
but also side to side for steering motion.  CV joints are able to transmit
torque at very large angles without substantial lash or kickback, that is,
smoothly.  I hope that helps.

David

--------
David_Scheidt@math.earlham.edu

yip yip yip yap yap yak yap yip *BANG*  -- no terrier
1966 SIIA 88"

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Sep 1997 04:12:37 -0400
From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com>
Subject: Re: joints

Franz Parzefall wrote:

> What's the difference beetween a cv-joint and a u-joint?

A cv-joint is a special type of u-joint. CV stands for "constant
velocity". A cv joint is designed such that the output rotational speed
(velocity) is the same as the input.

The most common type of universal joint is the type used in LR prop
shafts, and is know as a Carden, Hooke or cross joint. When bent the
output shaft speeds up and then slows down twice per revolution. The
amount of speed variation increases with the angle of the bend. This can
be a problem on front wheels which turn a large angle for steering. In
prop shafts if the angles of the joints at either end are equal, the
speed variations will cancel if the joints are properly phased. Hence
the importance of marking a prop shaft before disassembly.

Regards,
David Cockey

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Sep 1997 10:52:33 +0200
From: Jan Schokker <janjan@xs4all.nl>
Subject: Re: joints

>On Tue, 23 Sep 1997, Franz Parzefall wrote:
> Hi folks,
> I'm on this list for quite a time now and I have eliminated most of the
>	 [ truncated by lro-lite (was 7 lines)]
> What's the difference beetween a cv-joint and a u-joint?
> Can any kind sould point that out to me? (preferably in German)

Franz,

Let's stick to english. That's hard enough as it is..

U-joint = universal joint
CV-joint = constant velocity joint

A u-joint is a part of a shaft that can bend in two 90-degree opposite
directions.
That way a rotating shaft can be put in an angle.
The only problem is that the rotational speed of the shaft after the joint
is not constant. It goes up and down twice with every revolution of the
input-side of the shaft.
You can demontrate this with the "bending" connectionbar of a socket wrench set.
The greater the angle you put the shafts in, the more you will notice this
effect.
That is why you get this "wobbling" feeling in the front suspention of a
series Landrover in four-wheel drive with the steering at full lock on a
hard surface.
You don't want that with permanent four-wheel drive.

But there is a solution.
When you put two u-joints behind each other they counteract each others
action, so the output shaft has the same constant speed as the input shaft.
Now you have a cv-joint.
Disadvantage is that the shaft is no longer stable. It can move sideways in
the middle because of the two joints, so you need an extra bearing on input-
or outputshaft.

Hope this makes sense. Well, it does to me.

Regards,
jan.

------------------------------

From: Franz Parzefall <franz@max.physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de>
Subject: Re: joints
Date: Tue, 23 Sep 1997 11:01:47 +0200 (MET DST)

Jan, David and David,
thanks for filling me in on that subject. Think it's clear now.

| When you put two u-joints behind each other they counteract each others
| action, so the output shaft has the same constant speed as the input shaft.
| Now you have a cv-joint.
So a cv-joint simply consists of 2 u-joints...

Thanks,
Franz
Franz Parzefall                franz@physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de
		   http://www.physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de/~franz
       _______
      [____|\_\==
      [_-__|__|_-]      Brumml, exmil. 1989 Land Rover 110 2.5D
 ___.._(0)..._.(0)__..-
                                  

------------------------------

From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Re: joints
Date: Tue, 23 Sep 97 10:54:09 BST

> Jan, David and David,
> thanks for filling me in on that subject. Think it's clear now.
> | When you put two u-joints behind each other they counteract each others
> | action, so the output shaft has the same constant speed as the input shaft.
> | Now you have a cv-joint.
> So a cv-joint simply consists of 2 u-joints...

I see a tin-snail joke somewhere...

So, what's 2CVs?

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Sep 1997 06:35:42 -0400 (EDT)
From: Kathleen Hollington <kholling@nrn1.nrcan.gc.ca>
Subject: Golf Balls and dipsticks?

On 1997-09-22 lro@playground.sun.com said to kholling@nrn1.nrcan.gc.ca
   >In a message dated 97-09-22 06:59:07 EDT, you write:
   ><< My gas gauge only reads to the half full mark.  This happens on
   >both the regular and auxilliary tanks. >>
   >If it's not the sender, its the voltage regulator.
   >Change the VR first regardless since it's only about an $18 part.
   >It mounts in your instrument panel cavity in minutes and after 30
   >or so years, you probably need to replace it. If that doesn't do it,
   >try the sender or some of the many other solutions involving golf
   >balls and dipsticks that I've heard on this list.
   >Alex Maiolo
   >89 RR
   >69 IIa
I'm curious about this "golf balls and dipsticks" thing.  I'm going to
be shopping for a gas tank for my IIa (am rebuilding a LR without a gas
tank at all) and balk at the cost of a sender.  Is there a cheap
alternative that I haven't considered?  Thanks
        --Robert

 
    Robert St-Louis - Ottawa, Ontario, Canada - 1968 LR IIA SWB

Net-Tamer V 1.07 - Test Drive

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Sep 1997 11:41:52 +0000
From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Subject: Re: joints

>>So a cv-joint simply consists of 2 u-joints...

No it doesnt.
A constant velocity joint is a "flexible" coupling that provides,
as its name implies constant velocity at the output side.You only
need one of these on a shaft.
A universal,or Hooke coupling,doesnt do this,so to
get the constant rotational speed you need two in the drive(as
previously stated).But that doesnt make it a CV joint.

Cheers
Mike Rooth

------------------------------

  END OF * LIST DIGEST 
 Input:  messages 61 lines 2482 [forwarded 120 whitespace 583]
 Output: lines 1824 [content 982  forwarded 112 (cut  8) whitespace 565]

Back	Forward
Photos & text Copyright 1990-2011 Bill Caloccia, All rights reserved. Digest Messages Copyright 1990-2011 by the original poster or/and Bill Caloccia, All rights reserved.