Land Rover Owner Message Digest Contents

[ First Message Last | Table of Contents | <- Digest -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

Send Submissions Land-Rover-Owner@Land-Rover.Team.Net

From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 09:35:09 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Tappets

In a message dated 97-09-20 20:25:54 EDT, you write:

Possibly... but there could also be a problem lower down:
1. push rod sticking (unlikely)
2. Tappet slide sticking (possible)  <- I've seen this
3. Flat spot in tappet roller (also possible) <- and this
4. Worn cam lobe <-and unfortunately this too

It could also be a problem in the rocker shaft (worn spot)

Good luck with this one (BTW, converting to stellite seats is not a big deal
to the machine shop.

------------------------------

From: AKBLACKLEY@aol.com
Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 10:14:28 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Rear Main Cure?

Peter: I have recently finsihed rebuilding the 3.5L in my 83 RR. It had a
chronic leak at the rear main oil seal, which the V-8 is known for. At the
suggestion of my friend/neighbor/Porsche restorer we (he) installed a thing
called a "speedy sleeve" on the end of the crankshaft where the seal is in
contact with the shaft. 140K miles of use resulted in a nice little groove in
the crank at the seal. One choice is to 1) live with it and the leak forever,
2) buy a new crank (lawd!) 3) try to sleeve the worn spot, hence the "speedy
sleeve". I previously tried all the snake oil "seal swellers" on the self, to
no avail. 
The sleeve is a very thin stainless steel band that is either a press on fit
or super loctited in place. It provides a new surface for the seal to run on,
and should stop the leak, provided there isnt an excess of crankcase pressure
making things worse.
The sleeve is available from parts jobbers (ie the guts who sell to the parts
stores) so if you know a local engine rebuilder or pro mechanic ask him to
order one for you. You will need to know the EXACT diameter of the crank
however, and, obviously, it would be better to install it with the crank out!
The use of a genuine seal is also recommended. You might have to trim the
width also, but the one we used fit perfectly. I have a part number for
anyone with a V8 who cares to know. Hope this helps (someday). Cheers. Andy
Blackley

------------------------------

From: AKBLACKLEY@aol.com
Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 10:25:35 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Tappet noise on 2.25L

I had a similar problem on my old SIIA not long after I had bought it, but it
was intermittent, and maybe far more advanced down the road to ruin. I would
adjust the valves, it ran fine, then suddenly ran like crap. The problem was
that the roller on the cam follower had seized, worn a flat spot,at which
point I adjusted the valve lash, then it freed up and rotated so that the
intake valve on no.1 would stay closed  all the time until it rotated again.
Also make it more difficult to start. After several weeks of frustration (it
was my daily driver) I bit the very big bullet and did the unlead head job,
new rollers, new cam etc. Several roller were found to be in this state, and
the cam was lunched. Its a tribute to the engine that it continued to run.
When the head was off the advance wear in the cylinder bores was obvious and
well, one thing lead to another. Ouch! Here hoping your cure is easier.
Cheers. Andy Blackley

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 10:51:40 -0500 (CDT)
From: David Kurzman <kurzman@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: rear X-members

Since the rear X-member on my '66 IIA 88 has been patched at some time
in the past (about 10 years ago I think) and it has some 1/2" rust holes 
in it again I guess I'm going to buy a new one and pay someone to weld it 
on (I can't weld). I was planing on going with a regular (non-galvanized)
piece. The last one lasted a long time and I would rather have a black
painted one than the galvanized look. 
My question is: Does it make any difference where I buy it? I'm in
the US so I guess what I'm asking is, Atlantic Btitish, Rovers North,
DAP? Any good or bad stories concerning rear X-members from any of these 
places. Needless to say I only want to do this once. Thanks for your help.
Best, Dave in Richmond, Va. (804) 233-1341

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 09:45:00 -0700
From: "Christopher H. Dow" <dow@thelen.org>
Subject: Re: rear X-members

David Kurzman wrote:
8<
> Any good or bad stories concerning rear X-members from any of these
> places. Needless to say I only want to do this once. Thanks for your help.
8<

The rear x-member on my '65 88 is not original.  I don't know where it
was purchased but it has some features I've been led to believe original
x-members did not have.  For example, all the holes necessary for
mounting a rear step are already drilled.  Further all the holes needed
for the various hitch attachments  are in it, too.  The one thing it has
that is probably less than perfect is that there are three small
cylinders protruding from the bottom where a genuine x-member would have
three square plates.  I believe that the bolt which secures my rear step
has less support than it would on a genuine x-member, but then I didn't
have to drill any holes (I had to tap one).   So, you can ask the
various parts houses if this is the x-member they sell, and avoid it or
purchase it--depending on whether you like those features.  BTW, the
galvanization was quite good on it, but I painted it black because the
rest of my galvanized parts were very discolored.

C

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 09:49:50 -0700 (PDT)
From: davery@on-ramp.ior.com (Dale W. Avery)
Subject: Low readings on gas gauge

Dear fellow LR fanatics;

My gas gauge only reads to the half full mark.  This happens on both the
regular and auxilliary tanks.  I have had to replace both switches for the
fuel sender and am wondering if the line resistence is greater on the new
switches???

anyone have any ideas on this.  

Thanks for the help!

-----
   Dale W. Avery KC7MM
   '73 88" canvas top
     davery@ior.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 13:16:17 -0500 (CDT)
From: David Kurzman <kurzman@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: IIA Pos.grnd. wiper motors

Although my '66 IIA passed state inspection the other day, the wiper
motors were movin' kinda slow. I found some new motors in the LRO for sale
at about 150 pounds (!). Is this a motor that can be renewed (by a pro)?
I've had 2 series III's but this is my 1st IIA. Were the wiper motors on
these things ever any good? I'm pleased that the truck passed the 
inspection but if I got caught in a downpour I'd probably have to 
pull off the the road just to be safe.
I saw that there was a huge find of Series I parts in Eng. Were the 
wiper motors on series I's the same as the series IIA? If so, maybe
the price will come down (hey...I'm trying to be an optimist).
Best, Dave in Va. USA  (804) 233-1341
PS...The wipers on my series III's weren't so hot either.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 20:56:18 +0200
From: lopezba@atnet.at
Subject: Re: Wading plug

I think there was some misunderstanding re wading plugs. The function of the 
wading plug and the hole it fits is to keep water out when wading (wading 
plug in) and let oil that may seep from the crankcase into the bell housing 
trickle out before it makes the clutch inoperable (wading plug out). To be 
on the safe side, you can keep the wading plug in all the time and check the 
oil level in the bellhousing about once a month by removing the plug; if 
there is no oil in there, the plug can go back in.
On my S I, it is also a metal plug in the back of the bellhousing; the 
position and material may have been changed on newer vehicles.
Hope this helps
 
Peter Hirsch
Vienna, Austria
Series One 107in Station Wagon (in bits and pieces)

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 16:13:36 -0400
From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Subject: Re: IIA Pos.grnd. wiper motors

Dave, you ought to try cleaning the units you have. Thirty year old 
grease tends to become petrified. Remove the wiper motors and soak the 
guts in kerosene, and renew the grease with mobil 1 synthetic. Like night 
and day. 

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon,
'81 Honda Goldwing 1100 Standard:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 15:18:01 -0500 (CDT)
From: Steve Fullwood <ansdf@ttacs1.ttu.edu>
Subject: Fording Plug

I was wrong the hole is on the LEFT side.  It appears in my manual after
close scrutiny but does not have a name or purpose.  Sorry about the mixup

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 23:41:06 +0200
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Subject: Re: Low readings on gas gauge
[digester: Removing section of:  Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="------------E71E0563A87676B18FB96CCA" ]

I chased this problem for years on two SIII's - one only went up to
half, the other only down to half. After changing/rebuilding the senders
a few times I stopped to think about it...

The deisel tank has a return flow pipe which protrudes down to the
bottom of the tank. If the sender, which is mounted with 6 equidistant
screws, is positioned one of the 5 possible wrong positions, the return
pipe blocks the arc of swing of the float on the sender - if the tank is
fullish when installed, then the sender will only go down to half; if
the tank is empty, the float will only come to half way up.

I then tried positioning the sender so that it doesn't get blocked and
VUPTI (as we say in Danish) it worked...

Could this be your problem. (I have also seenh this problem on a petrol
SIII - it had a diesel tank fitted)

Let us know what the problem was.. :)
-- 
Adrian Redmond

---------------------------------------------------
CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
---------------------------------------------------
telephone (office)		    +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)		    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data                +45 86 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)		    +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)                  +45 40 54 22 66
mobile NMT			    +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail			     channel6@post2.tele.dk
HoTMaiL (www.e-mail)	channel6denmark@hotmail.com
---------------------------------------------------
Visit our homepages!                www.channel6.dk
---------------------------------------------------
--------------E71E0563A87676B18FB96CCA

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 19:38:00 -0400
Subject: Re: IIA Pos.grnd. wiper motors

The motors on an early IIa are an easy fix - check the Ottawa Valley Land
Rovers site for an article I wrote on the subject about 2 years ago. If you
don't have Web access E-mail me and I'll send it along.

>From the description, a good cleaning and relubrication is all they need -
slow running is typically congealed grease. Couple that with the usual
mediocre ground usually results in slow running.

the big thing to watch out for is the intermediate gear - it's made up of a
fiber material and they come apart easily under rough handling. Be careful
with that, and the rest's a doddle.

                    Al Richer/Mr. Churchill

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 19:45:46 -0400
Subject: Re: IIA Pos.grnd. wiper motors

Re: Cleaning IIa wiper motors:

> Remove the wiper motors and soak the
>guts in kerosene, and renew the grease with mobil 1 synthetic. Like night
>and day.
>Bill Adams
>3D Artist/Animator
Sorry, Bill, got to disagree with you on this one.

You don't want to do that.....the phenolic intermediate gear in the
geartrain will turn to mush in short o\rder once put back into service if
soaked in kero overnight. The structure of that stuff is not overly happy
when hit with solvents.

I sincerely recommend a terpene-based cleaner and a bit of attention with a
toothbrush or something similar, once the worst of the old grease is wiped
off. Much friendlier to the parts, and you don't have to wait overnight (or
dispose of the contaminated Kerosene).

Also, a good silicone-based grease might be a better choice than Mobil 1 -
you need something that's going to stick to the geartrain and not be
sloughed-off the rotating parts. These silly old beasts are designed to
work with a heavier lubricant than a motor oil.

     aj"Rebuilt too many of these"r

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 20:06:15 -0400 (EDT)
From: pscales@blvl.igs.net (P.S.)
Subject: Re: rear X-members

>> Any good or bad stories concerning rear X-members...

>The rear x-member on my '65 88 is not original.

I'm facing the same problem, but I need to replace the rear X-member and the
last 18" of frame, too, incl spring hangers.  I was at the British Car Day
west of Toronto today, and looked at everybody else's.  Many were homemade
replacements, and quite decent looking.  One fellow spent $100 on welding
lessons and $85 on steel channel to make his rear X-member.  He showed me
the new front bumper he made, plus the roof racks he made for his and his
friend's Series IIs.  He figures he has saved thousands, plus he is able to
do other welding-related repairs!  Anyhow, that's what I'm thinking of
doing: welding lessons, then DIY.

That's my ten cents worth.

Peter

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 20:51:07 -0400 (EDT)
From: "William L. Leacock" <wleacock@pipeline.com>
Subject: Gearbox plugs

Steve , the riubber plug you refer to is used to plug the hole in the side
of the bell housing where the clutch shaft would come out for the opposite
hand drive, so if your vehicle is left hand drive, the plug is fitted into a
hole on the right, and vise versas.this is standard on the series 1. The
hoel was plugged  when the hydraulic clutch was fitted, probably by ser 2a,
I think the series 2's still had the hole. It is advisable to kep the plug
fitted since it prevents mud etc enetering the  clutch assembly.
Bill Leacock	Limey in exile
89 RR; 67 - 109 and  early 88.

------------------------------

From: "Ben Fenwick" <bfenwick@netset.com>
Subject: 88 RR questions
Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 21:45:28 -0400

I am posting this for my father.  He has a 88 RR and a 73 Ser. III

The questions are concerning the RR.  The head liner in it is falling down.
 Has any one else have this problem?  Has any one else repaired one or
replaced one?  If you have what is involved?

The other question concerns front wheel seals.  He has replaced them, but
they keep on leaking.  Any suggestions?  

Please e-mail direct with any help or info, bfenwick@netset.com.  Thanks in
advance for any help.

Ben Fenwick

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 22:28:20 -0400
From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com>
Subject: Re: IIA Pos.grnd. wiper motors

David Kurzman wrote:

> I saw that there was a huge find of Series I parts in Eng. Were the
> wiper motors on series I's the same as the series IIA? If so, maybe
> the price will come down (hey...I'm trying to be an optimist).

Late SI motors were very similar. Early SI motors were smaller and a
more angular shape. I believe the SI parts "find" was early SI parts.

Three years ago in England we bought (at a somewhat reasonable price)
the last wiper motor a Lucas specialist had with him at a show. He
promised to send another from his stock at home. We received a call in
Michigan from him a week later that he had discovered his last wiper
motor had been sold to another concern, but he would see if he could buy
it back. Another week later a package arrived with the motor at the
originally agreed price.

Regards,
David Cockey

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 23:01:06 -0400 (EDT)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@nrn1.NRCan.gc.ca>
Subject: Stowe, short notes

	Rain, rain, and more rain on Saturday.  Land Rovers were placed on
the other side of a barbed wire fence from all of the lovely sports cars
that were slowly filling up like bathtubs in the incessant rain.  By
3:30pm there were 19 cars left on the show field.  There were more Series
LR's there, and more came in through the afternoon.  By 4pm the show field
was empty but the beer certainly wasn't for us.  Many LR people stayed
slightly drier by staying under the OVLR trailer tarp that was set up
there.  (OVLR also served hotdogs & coffee during the day.  simplier and
cheaper (free) than the fare under the big tent.  Trivia - 31 OVLR
members with 20 Series vehicles, 3 modern)
	RN had a course set up to drive.  $10 allowed you to take your
vehicle about.  Portions had canes set up.  Points were added to your
score if you touched them.  Lowest score got their choice of any BF
Goodrich tires they wanted (5 I believe).  Rain made the course more
challenging.  If anyone had an 80 inch they would have cleaned up.
	Sunday was cold, but no rain.  Tug of war was won by the LR people
this year.  Mini owners cheated and tied a Range Rover to their end this
year.  We put a pair of 88's on our end.  No challenge...
	Best comment heard during the weekend by a LR person - One
sportscar owner in the registration line when discussing the rain and
lousy weather remarked that the LR owners would be having fun as all they
needed for fun was a hammock and a tub of beer. 

	In no particular order (& missing some)
IIA	109	5
IIA 	109 sw	3
IIA	88	9
II	88	1
Stage One	1
III 	88	5
III 	109 mil	3
lgtwgt		3
110		1
D90		6 - probably missed some
RR		6 - missed some no doubt
Disco		4 -   " missed some

	Overall, lots more Series that modern

------------------------------

From: Andy Phillips <AnPi@serviceteam.co.uk>
Subject: RE: Wading plug
Date: Mon, 22 Sep 1997 09:06:20 +0100

Hi all,

Just catching up on the mail so one very brief point. The wading plug is
necessary to prevent water entering because of the *vacuum* that sucks
water inside the box, bell housing etc whenever you enter water,
particularly if you have the bad luck to stall! For all I know the
vacuum may be permanent inside these components (I'm rather a novice)
and ignored out of water because its not dangerous. This might help a
little on the decision of whether a rubber plug is sufficient to keep
water out or not.

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	Adrian Redmond [SMTP:channel6@post2.tele.dk]
> Sent:	Friday, September 19, 1997 10:12 PM
> To:	lro@playground.sun.com
> Subject:	Re: Wading plug

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 108 lines)]
> tel;work:       +45 86 57 22 66
> tel;fax:        +45 86 57 24 46
> tel;home:       +45 86 57 22 64
> x-mozilla-cpt:  ;0
> x-mozilla-html: TRUE
> end:            vcard
> --------------3B323BD91AC00B47CCB3E249--

------------------------------

  END OF * LIST DIGEST 
 Input:  messages 19 lines 858 [forwarded 122 whitespace 157]
 Output: lines 574 [content 319  forwarded 122 (cut  0) whitespace 140]

This has been the last portion of the lro-digest-ltd

If you would like to unsubscribe from this service contact
Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net and request 'unsubscribe lro-digest-ltd'

The lro-digest-ltd is the same content as the lro-digest, but it is split
into a number of smaller pieces which are limited in size to 400 lines.

This is to allow access by users whose mail servers may not allow larger
messages (typicaly over 30KB).

Today's multipart digest is composed of the following portions:

   lines   chars	portions

Back	Forward
Photos & text Copyright 1990-2011 Bill Caloccia, All rights reserved. Digest Messages Copyright 1990-2011 by the original poster or/and Bill Caloccia, All rights reserved.