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From: reidar.otto.johnsen@nrk.no
Date: Tue, 16 Sep 1997 13:08:13 -0700
Subject: subscribe

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Sep 1997 04:19:18 -0700 (PDT)
From: Lorri Paustian <lorri@sound.net>
Subject: New D90

        A new member of our club is having a '97 D90 delivered in a couple
of weeks.  I recommended he hold off getting the accessories from the
dealership and check out all sources.  He wants:  a bull bar (I recommended
ARB), Hella 3000 lights, and a CD player.  Anyone who has checked sources
for these and knows the best source, please advise.  Also, I'm interested in
a source for some wing protectors and some waterproof seat covers.  Any
assistance on these items would help as well.  Thanks in advance.
Lorri Paustian, Flatland Rover Society
Lenexa, Kansas
'95 Coniston Green D90 SW
'95 Arles Blue D90 SW

------------------------------

From: Easton Trevor <Trevor_Easton@dofasco.ca>
Subject: Electric Fans
Date: Tue, 16 Sep 1997 07:35:00 -0400

MissGolightly has an electric fan (Hayden) fitted and the capilliary
temperature gauge gives a go opportunity to observe the engine
temperatures. Upon starting the temperature climbs quite rapidly (?) to
150F at which point the thermostat opens and the temp then remains in
the 150-180 region unless worked hard when it can rise to 200-220 . The
fan comes on at 180 so unless I'm climbing hills or spending a lot of
time idling in traffic or the back roads the fan hasn't much work to do.
ie most cooling is done by the wind through the radiator.
It's interesting to note the change in temperature between a following
and head winds. The big temperature rise, the one that might distort
heads and stuff, occurs when the engine is shut down here I've seen the
gauge go up to 220 quite regularly and it matters not whether the fan is
electric or mechanical at this point as there's no fan and no water
pump. It's pure thermosiphon physics.

------------------------------

From: Easton Trevor <Trevor_Easton@dofasco.ca>
Subject: V6, L6, V8, V4, L4 etc cams and induction
Date: Tue, 16 Sep 1997 07:48:00 -0400

David Cockey writes that torque is a function mainly of cam and
induction design. David do you know of any aftermarket cam grinders with
the skills to produce a cam for the V6 that produces low end grunt at
the expense of top end HP.  >150 ftlb from 500 to 3500 rpm would be
nice!
I note from an engine chart the 3.8l V6 from Ford and GM compare thus on
torque
Ford 205 @ 1600. GM 195@2000 I know which gets my money.

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Tue, 16 Sep 97 07:42:59 EST
Subject: Re: Brake dragging

>I have a brake piston which has stuck open and I am dragging a brake.  Any tips
>how to remove the bloody drum so that I can get access to the bloody piston?

Pound on it with a hammer. It'll go. Try the bleed screw, but don't break it. 
this'll relieve pressure in the unstuck piston. Also adjusting the brake if the 
trailing shoe is the one that's stuck.

>Is it normal that in the above conditions the landrover makes a noise like a 
>cross has gone??

Assume you mean U-joint, but no its more like the truck jerks back and forth 
sometimes. Mine only did it occasionally, and I drove with it for quite some 
time. 

later
DaveB
Thanks
Geoffrey

------------------------------

From: Julian Watt <julian@landrover.demon.co.uk>
Subject: new user
Date: Tue, 16 Sep 1997 12:30:50 +-100

could someone let me know how to subscribe?

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Sep 1997 7:25:17 -0400
From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Subject: Re: Landrovers in software

If anyone deserves a RN mug for a bizarro sighting...the "dependable" 
D110 button on the tape drive window!
As if!

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon,
'81 Honda Goldwing 1100 Standard:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Sep 1997 08:49:11 -0700
From: jimallen@onlinecol.com (Jim Allen)
Subject: Re: SER Performance Head

 RE Performance Head & Carb.

        In general, their claims are reasonable but here are some things to
keep in mind.IMHO, of course.

1) The definition of horsepower is work times speed. To increase hp, you
must also increase engine speed. Structurally, a good 2.25 is perfectly
safe to 4500rpm, reasonably safe to 5000 but above that it gets very risky.
To get 15-18 hp, gain, the engine needs 5000rpm at least (as mentioned in
the text). Having had a 2.25 come unglued once at 5200rpm, I have some
doubts about these sorts of speeds without a thorough redo of the
valvetrain (springs, tappets, rockers etc) with some psuedo-performance
pieces (which are not made). IMHO, the stock valvetrain is inadequate for
sape operation much beyond 4800. Slightly stiffer valve springs will help
forestall valve float but will cause extra wear of the tappets (I
experienced this firsthand also after trying out some Chevy V8 springs).
Despite these reservations, the company's claims sound reasonable to me and
work out on a hp estimating program I use.

2) The 20 lb-ft torque gain sounds fairly reasonable also and this is the
real plus with their setup. According to them, the torque curve seems to
hold longer also, eliminating that flat spot.

3) I want to know more about the SU Power-Plus. The SU is a very flexible
carb when being mated to "strange" engines. Because its a "variable
venturi", it can supply good low end throttle response combined with a big
hole on WOT for the engine to breath with. I have never found them to be
particularly good in rough terrain, however. They flood over on steep
angles and on heavy bouncing. If he is using the HIF carbs (built in float
chamber), this is good but even so, the SU is best used on the highway and
moderate off-road (90% of you are covered then!).

4)If I was in the market, I ask them to send the dyno print-out as evidence
of their claims. Just to be the informed shopper, y'know.

        Jim Allen

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Sep 1997 08:56:43 -0700
From: jimallen@onlinecol.com (Jim Allen)
Subject: Re: V6, L6, V8, V4, L4 etc cams and induction

 >David Cockey writes that torque is a function mainly of cam and
>induction design. David do you know of any aftermarket cam grinders with
>the skills to produce a cam for the V6 that produces low end grunt at
>the expense of top end HP.  >150 ftlb from 500 to 3500 rpm would be
>nice!
>I note from an engine chart the 3.8l V6 from Ford and GM compare thus on
>torque
>Ford 205 @ 1600. GM 195@2000 I know which gets my money.

You need the whole curve to make a proper judgement. You are only looking
at the peaks. For all you know, the fords curve is shallow and peaks at a
point and drops off quickly. The chevy may climb steeply, plateau early and
stay flat for a long time. You want a curve that climbs steeply and hold a
fairly flat line for as long as possible. Most late model engines with EFI
are good torquers so the biggest question is what fits the best!

        Jim Allen

------------------------------

Date: 16 Sep 1997 11:50:41 -0400
From: "LT J Jackson" <lt_j_jackson@unixlink.uscga.edu>
Subject: Still no idle, but...

Belated thanks to all who responded with suggestions for curing my idle
problem.  I've been 
in Maine fishing for smallmouth for a few days - a trip which I had planned to
use the Rover for, but I wound up going in my buddy's Jeep instead.  How
humiliating.

I checked the points and ballast and rechecked the vacuum connections - no
progress.  Pulled the carb (again) and recleaned all the jets - nothing. 
Replaced the in-line filters and cleaned the fuel pump - no effect.   My final
thought is that the carbs internal passage to the low speed jet must be
clogged, despite all the air I shot through it, so I'm off to NAPA for a
gallon of that toxic carb bath cleaner which will turn my garage into a
Superfund site.

After that, I'll be looking for a virgin, or at least a virgin chicken, to
sacrifice to whatever
gods I have displeased.

I'm going to try and scan my Weber 34ICH manual into the computer, but that
will take a bit of time.  If anyone would like it sooner, send me a fax number
and I'll send it to you.  It's 4 pages long.

Jeff Jackson
Waterford, CT
73 SIII 88 (Camilla)
    

------------------------------

From: AKBLACKLEY@aol.com
Date: Tue, 16 Sep 1997 12:33:00 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: SU carb

SU=Skinners Union, fabled maker of the side draught carb either loved or
loathed, usually depending on which side of the Atlantic (or Channel) you
live on, and used on most British sportscars, and the Rover P-6 3.5 V-8,
among others. As I understand it these have become expensive of late as no
manufacturer has used them as original equipment for some time. LROI or other
British car mags, and Hemmings Motor News here in the States, carry adverts
of various suppliers. I think the one in question is an SU HIS6 (44metric)
which has a center float and is the culmination of literally decades of
"development" :>). I do prefer them over the Strombergs used on the Range
Rover. I just scanned that article, but I was impressed with the reduction in
emmissions they claimed.
Anyways, because its a side draught and the original LR is down draft a new
manifold is needed. I'll have to read that article better, but I dont recall
that there is any provision for manifold heat which improves winter driving.
In all it is suprising how much power can be tweaked from the old mill
without resorting to an engine swap. I dont remember if Jim Allen also flow
tested an SU but with the 44mm throat diamenter, the improved intake
manifold, and the free flowing exhaust I am sure that some good power gains
would result. It would be interesting to see a trail test of this setup.
Provided that the Rover fuel return line to the tank was retained, I dont
think there would a problem with flooding or fuel spill over. I side with
those who advocate the use of a well rebuilt, properly tuned original 2.25L
with an unlead head conversion on their Series vehicles. Cheers. Andy
Blackley
 

------------------------------

From: Michael R Fredette <mfredett@ptdcs2.intel.com>
Subject: Non Series content messages
Date: Tue, 16 Sep 1997 09:35:48 -0700 (PDT)

Hi folks,

    This is just a "very friendly" reminder that the lists were
    separated for a reason, ie, the Series owners were getting tired
    of wading through the, to us, inane questions about Disco CD
    changers, Disco hesitation problems, Disco tranny problems,
    Disco tire choice problems et cetera ad nauseum. There has been
    quite a few of these type messages "leaking" over from the Coil
    Sprung list to the Series list over the past few weeks. Many folks
    are paying for all that mail traffic, please try and keep Coil 
    Sprung mail confined to that list.

    Rgds
    Mike Fredette
    94 D90
    101 FC

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Sep 1997 12:57:54 -0400 (EDT)
From: kelliott@intranet.ca (Keith Elliott)
Subject: Series Tailgates

Would anyone out there have a Tailgate for a Series II/IIA/III sitting
around doing nothing??? If you have one or know of where I could get one let
me know. :)

Thanks

Keith

61 SER-II 88" Pick-up with no Tailgate.

------------------------------

Subject: turbo diesel engine help
Date: Tue, 16 Sep 1997 12:52:12 -0500
From: Benjamin Smith <bens@psa.pencom.com>

	This is an email that was sent to me and I don't know the answer.
Could someone that does know the answer, please email Brae.
(Brae@harrisondigital.com).

	Thanks.

Ben
 
------- Forwarded Message
From: Brae <Brae@harrisondigital.com>
Subject: PLEASE HELP! '96 land rover "specs"

PLEASE HELP (or forward to known helpful party)
I Have a friend who is working for The United Nations in Liberia,
Africa
and he has a '96 Land Rover Discovery Turbo diesel and the engine is
being
rebuilt.
He is in desperate need for some of the engine specifications;
1       cylinder head bolt torque and sequence?
2       Timing or valve belt settings?
3       Valve gaps for intake & exhaust (hot & or cold)?
4       Torque & Sequence for crankshaft bearings & rod bearings?
5       is a rebuild kit available for the turbo?
He is working out in a rural area and can only fax me about once a
week
when the electricity
and the phones work at the same time!
Any & all info will be greatly appreciated and you will be helping in
"The International Aid Effort"
Please e-mail Info to : Brae@harrisondigital.com
Thanks again for your help

------- End of Forwarded Message

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Sep 1997 14:08:37 -0400
From: Brae <Brae@harrisondigital.com>
Subject: Please Help!! '96 Land Rover Discovery Turbo Diesel Engine "SPECS"

PLEASE HELP (or forward to known helpful party)
I Have a friend who is working for The United Nations in Liberia,
Africa
and he has a '96 Land Rover Discovery Turbo diesel and the engine is
being
rebuilt. EG #18L5995A
He is in desperate need for some of the engine specifications;
1       cylinder head bolt torque and sequence?
2       Timing or valve belt settings?
3       Valve gaps for intake & exhaust (hot & or cold)?
4       Torque & Sequence for crankshaft bearings & rod bearings?
5       is a rebuild kit available for the turbo?
He is working out in a rural area and can only fax me about once a
week
when the electricity
and the phones work at the same time!
Any & all info will be greatly appreciated and you will be helping in
"The International Aid Effort"
Please e-mail Info to : Brae@harrisondigital.com
Thanks again for your help

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Sep 1997 11:20:39 -0700 (PDT)
From: gpool@pacific.net (Granville Pool)
Subject: Re: SU carb

Andy, you said, regarding the SU carb:

>Anyways, because its a side draught and the original LR is down draft [snip]

Although I don't pretend to fully understand why, I'm clear on one thing
(after owning a couple of Jags for years and having friends with assorted
MGs, etc.):  The SU is not a sidedraught carburettor; it's a
semi-downdraught.  Weber DCOEs are sidedraught.

Thought you'd like to know.

Granny

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Sep 1997 13:31:51 -0500 (CDT)
From: Steve Fullwood <ansdf@ttacs1.ttu.edu>
Subject: Test please ignore

This is a test and only a test.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Sep 1997 14:03:21 -0500 (CDT)
From: Steve Fullwood <ansdf@ttacs1.ttu.edu>
Subject: Starter motor dead.

My starter motor will not spin fast enough to throw the pinion into the
flywheel.  What is my solution? I have taken it apart cleaned, reassembled
replaced the bushes of the starter motor and it works sporadically. I am
stumped as to why it refuses to work I thought they were foolproof. I could
really use some input. If you have no input do you have a used motor?  I
live in Texas.  I was wondering if anyone has had any luck with Craddock's
they list a starter motor for around $70.  In my roversnorth catalog it
lists for $270.  Whats the difference.
Steve 

------------------------------

From: JSmallals@aol.com
Date: Tue, 16 Sep 1997 15:57:47 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Series Tailgates

Keith,
Sorry if this is a double posting...I have a new IIA tailgate with all the
weatherstripping , chains, mounting brackets, etc...was going to convert to a
 softop but found it to be to much $$$...make me an offer.
James Small

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Sep 1997 17:11:34 -0400 (EDT)
From: "William L. Leacock" <wleacock@pipeline.com>
Subject: cooling

Jan writes re electric fans
  If  I was you I would change my mechanic. The cooling system on the LR  is
capacious for an engine of its size and is well capable of oerating without
a fan in normal operating conditions.. You will find that if you remove the
engine fan and fit an electric one the electric fan will not operate very
often  in normal road use. If you do heavy off roading, tow heavy trailers,
or visit tropical climes then  stick with the mechanical fan. If you are
doubtful just fit the mechanical fan from June to August.
Bill Leacock	Limey in exile
89 RR; 67 - 109 and  early 88.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Sep 1997 14:26:45 -0700
From: "Christopher H. Dow" <dow@thelen.org>
Subject: Re: Starter motor dead.

Steve Fullwood wrote:
> My starter motor will not spin fast enough to throw the pinion into the
> flywheel.  What is my solution? 

Put a voltmeter on the battery.  If it reads < 12V, then you need a new
battery.  I just went through this.  I had lost two cells in my battery,
and had tried two rebuilt starter motors.  So, first, go buy a cheap (or
expensive) battery and try that.  Michael Carradine will probably join
in here with his explanation of battery cells and terminals and their
relative voltage contributions.

> I was wondering if anyone has had any luck with Craddock's
> they list a starter motor for around $70.  In my roversnorth catalog it
> lists for $270.  Whats the difference.

BP sells them for much less than $270, as do AB I believe AB has rebuilt
starter motors for < $150 w/ no core charge.  I only buy from RN when
they are the only place to get a Genuine part that I want (did that for
my U-bolts and one shackle on my recent respring).  I have purchased one
item (work lamp) from Craddocks and was thoroughly satisfied (it arrived
in 3 days).

But, as I said above.  I'll bet you don't need a new starter motor.

C

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Tue, 16 Sep 97 17:34:58 EST
Subject: Re[2]: Starter motor dead.

Steve Fullwood wrote:
> My starter motor will not spin fast enough to throw the pinion into the
> flywheel.  What is my solution? 

use the effin' handcrank!!! 

later
DaveB.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Sep 1997 23:58:11 +0200
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Subject: If it works....
[digester: Removing section of:  Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="------------7FECC33C73A7ACA0EAA7FD5F" ]

I know I always seem to play devils advocate - but I can't help
wondering - everyone here seems to agree on the obvious shortcomings of
our beloved vehicles after a few years away from the factory -
corrosion, bad heater, strangely useless windscreen wipers, lucas
electrics, fuel tanks which contribute to a dramatically lower fuel
economy, self-lubricating engine compartments, biodegradeable rear
chassis memnbers, and rattling components in all four corners.

But I can't help noticeing that most discussions about modifications
concern not the righting of these undeniable Solihull wrongs, but the
adaption of the very parts which seem to work quite well IMHO. Take the
motor - 2.25 deisel - not a speedy beast, but surely one of the most
reliable, dependable, easy to service powerhorses that ever dripped it's
way out of Blighty. The oil filter - I have'nt had problems changing
these on three vehicles in 14 years of rovering (maybe I'm just lucky) -
and the latest - electric fans?

Despite the vintage of my vehicles (1972, 1976, 1979), I have never seen
a dripping axle/hub seal, a greasy brake-shoe, a leaking brake-hose, a
bu%%ered slave cylinder a motor which won't start (unless dead battery
due to own forgetfulness counts. So why change it - am I just a
reactionary? Am I missing out on something? Or am I just lucky?

Yours tongue in cheek, asked in good spirits!

-- 
Adrian Redmond

---------------------------------------------------
CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
---------------------------------------------------
telephone (office)		    +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)		    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data                +45 86 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)		    +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)                  +45 40 54 22 66
mobile NMT			    +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail			     channel6@post2.tele.dk
HoTMaiL (www.e-mail)	channel6denmark@hotmail.com
---------------------------------------------------
--------------7FECC33C73A7ACA0EAA7FD5F

------------------------------

From: Sanna@aol.com
Date: Tue, 16 Sep 1997 17:52:30 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re:  Starter motor dead.

Message received.  Thanks

Anthony R. Sanna
SACO Foods, Inc.
6120 University Avenue
Middleton, Wisconsin  53562  USA

1-800-373-7226
(608) 238-9101

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Sep 1997 17:11:34 -0400 (EDT)
From: "William L. Leacock" <wleacock@pipeline.com>
Subject: cooling

Jan writes re electric fans
  If  I was you I would change my mechanic. The cooling system on the LR  is
capacious for an engine of its size and is well capable of oerating without
a fan in normal operating conditions.. You will find that if you remove the
engine fan and fit an electric one the electric fan will not operate very
often  in normal road use. If you do heavy off roading, tow heavy trailers,
or visit tropical climes then  stick with the mechanical fan. If you are
doubtful just fit the mechanical fan from June to August.
Bill Leacock	Limey in exile
89 RR; 67 - 109 and  early 88.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Sep 1997 14:26:45 -0700
From: "Christopher H. Dow" <dow@thelen.org>
Subject: Re: Starter motor dead.

Steve Fullwood wrote:
> My starter motor will not spin fast enough to throw the pinion into the
> flywheel.  What is my solution? 
Put a voltmeter on the battery.  If it reads < 12V, then you need a new
battery.  I just went through this.  I had lost two cells in my battery,
and had tried two rebuilt starter motors.  So, first, go buy a cheap (or
expensive) battery and try that.  Michael Carradine will probably join
in here with his explanation of battery cells and terminals and their
relative voltage contributions.

> I was wondering if anyone has had any luck with Craddock's
> they list a starter motor for around $70.  In my roversnorth catalog it
> lists for $270.  Whats the difference.
BP sells them for much less than $270, as do AB I believe AB has rebuilt
starter motors for < $150 w/ no core charge.  I only buy from RN when
they are the only place to get a Genuine part that I want (did that for
my U-bolts and one shackle on my recent respring).  I have purchased one
item (work lamp) from Craddocks and was thoroughly satisfied (it arrived
in 3 days).

But, as I said above.  I'll bet you don't need a new starter motor.

C

------------------------------

From: Gregspitz@aol.com
Date: Tue, 16 Sep 1997 18:37:10 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: New D90

call Rovers North....roversnorth.com

------------------------------

From: JDolan2109@aol.com
Date: Tue, 16 Sep 1997 18:38:30 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re:   The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

Sorry for the personal nature of this, but could Alan Richer please e-mail me
ASAP? I lost his address.
jim
jdolan2109@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Sep 1997 19:19:33 -0400
From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com>
Subject: Re: Starter motor dead.

Steve Fullwood wrote:

> I
> live in Texas.  I was wondering if anyone has had any luck with
> Craddock's
> they list a starter motor for around $70.  In my roversnorth catalog
> it
> lists for $270.  Whats the difference.

I've had good luck with Craddock, with quick shipping and parts as
expected. Assume that parts will not be genuine unless specifically
stated to be. It can worthwhile faxing a request for a quote, and then
ordering from the quote. Shipping can also be expensive for heavy items.
(If Peter is awake he will now join in with a different opinion of
Craddock.)

I've also had very good luck with Blanchard though most of their stock
is ex-military and can be older than your vehicle. Some parts I ordered
for our '60 SIIs were packed in boxes with dates of 1956 (SIs used the
same parts). It helps to know the part number also. Another source I
delt with once satisfactorly was Dingocroft.

Regards,
David Cockey

------------------------------

From: RoverNut@aol.com
Date: Tue, 16 Sep 1997 21:00:33 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Disco tires

In a message dated 97-09-16 07:16:22 EDT, you write:

<< > Discovery? Any other tires that one would like to recommend? >>

I found a set of Sentrys being closed out and pu them on my RR for a total
(mount incl) of $300 (normally about $500 for the set, which is still agood
deal). I only use my IIa offroad these days so I didn't really care about mud
performance, I just wanted a deal since I was broke (from fixing up the IIa).
They work great and do extremely well in the mud, much to my surprise. They
are also pretty quiet on-road.
Just take the measurements to a tire dealer and you can get SOMETHING. It may
be a bit narrower or a bit wider, but who cares? Get the right tread pattern
for what you want to do, but I can't believe how adamant people are about
Michelins. They are very good; probably the best, but not always necessary.
They can also be cost prohibitive as you've found out. I've also had bad luck
with their customer service.Essentialy, I got a bad tire (delaminated w/in
20k) and they didn't make it right.
Dunlop makes tires that fit, so does BFG. 
Getting your Disco on the road and safe should be your first concern.

Good luck,
Alex
89RR
69IIa

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Sep 97 17:02:44 UT
From: "K. JOHN WOOD" <JWROVER@classic.msn.com>
Subject: Solihull Society to Moab, UT

Dear all.

Oct. 17 - 19 
The Solihull Society will take a trip to Moab, UT

Details:
	Meet at Idaho Springs Safeway @ 7:00pm on Oct 17th

	Driver meeting @ Moab Grocery 9:00am Oct. 18th

	Trails will be run on the 18th and 19th with dinner at "Eddie McStiffs" on 
	Sat. Night the 18th at 7:00pm

For more details please send email to Jwood@solihullsociety.org 

Yours'
K. John Wood
Event Co- Solihull Society

------------------------------

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