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Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 7:06:16 -0400 From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov> Subject: Poncho 173 and other GM junk in Rovers... I may be all wrong, but I think there's great advantage to the inline six over the V-six in terms of low-end pull and overall powerband. The v-six develops its horsepower higher in the RPM range than an inline six. These are usually seen attached to an automatic transmission so that the engine won't die on you when you are in low speed/high load situations. That's why Rover, Willys, Jeep, AM General, Ford and several other manufacturers spec such engines in 4WD vehicles. I'm not trying to dissuade you from the Pontiac engine you are considering, but I think you'd best do a little research engineering-wise before you go shoehorning in something that won't work properly. Bill Adams 3D Artist/Animator '66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon, '81 Honda Goldwing 1100 Standard: "Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching" ------------------------------[ <- Message 2 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970916 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 04:14:12 -0700 (PDT) From: Lorri Paustian <lorri@sound.net> Subject: Re: D90 corrosion My D90 came that way from the dealership. I had the local dealership redo the paint and then it still leaked. They finally came up with the idea that if they changed the battery and put in a battery tray it might keep it from corroding. That took care of the problem. At 02:27 PM 9/14/97 -0400, you wrote: >If you are worried about D90 corrosion, you should regularly remove the >driver's seat and check the battery. The battery on my '94 had a slow >leak from the bottom of one of the cells. It ate a lot of paint and a >little metal. Lorri Paustian, Flatland Rover Society Lenexa, Kansas '95 Coniston Green D90 SW '95 Arles Blue D90 SW ------------------------------[ <- Message 3 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970916 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 13:31:46 +0200 From: Jan Schokker <janjan@xs4all.nl> Subject: Electric fans. Old discussion, new argument No reply on the UK list, so let's take this global... Apologies to people who, like me, subscribe to both. Hi all, I know this subject has been covered extensively in the past, but I still have a question about something I heard. A local Landrover Mechanic told me to avoid electric cooling fans as a substitute for the solid-mounted engine driven fan unless I was keen on changing the head gasket all the time. He said that because of the 'old fashioned cooling system', with water going through the radiator the wrong way around (top to bottom) I was sure to have overheating problems without the stock fan. Any opinions on this from people who changed to electric? I like all the advantages of the swap, but don't want to damage my engine. Thanks in advance for any advice, Jan. Series III 109 2,25 petrol 1983 ------------------------------[ <- Message 4 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970916 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 14:01:23 +0200 From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk> Subject: Re: S.Vels Clutch slave, Howto [digester: Removing section of: Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="------------A71C1F38ADFA84F3A740E794" ] Dear S. Vels If we're talking series IIA or III, then the slave cylinder can be removed, serviced and refitted without removing the box or splitting it from the engine - all it requires is an accomplished gynæcologist or otherwise nifty fingers - lie under the car, feet towards the rear, head by the sump, and you should be able to get a #13 nut-spinner or socket on extension onto the slave flange bolts - removing the floorplates and transmission tunnel cover will hel, then you can get a friend to help locate the socket onto the bolt from above, whilst you work the spinner from below. When the cylinder is loose, it can be manouvered under the motor to remove the hydraulic pipe. The slave cylinder can be reserviced using a service kit, which includes a rubber diaphragm cover, a rupper plunger gasket and a circlip. I know this kit is available from Midtjydsk and Marius Berttelsen (86954255/86954207). While you are about it - you could make a short bleeder extension so that the bleed nipple is fed up and over the cylinder and becomes accessible from the indside of the car - just ensure that the bleed nipple is higher than the cylinder to assist the gravitation and removal of air pockets. This would be a greta help, the only problem is you nowe miss the undeniable privilegde of lying under the car whilst your wife or friend sprays sticky cluth fluid down your face, hair, glasses and best shirt - too bad eh? But really - it's easy - good luck! Pøj pøj! -- Adrian Redmond --------------------------------------------------- CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK (Adrian Redmond) Foerlevvej 6 Mesing DK-8660 Skanderborg Denmark --------------------------------------------------- telephone (office) +45 86 57 22 66 telephone (home) +45 86 57 22 64 telefacsimile / data +45 86 57 24 46 mobile GSM (EFP unit) +45 40 74 75 64 mobile GSM (admin) +45 40 54 22 66 mobile NMT +45 30 86 75 66 e-mail channel6@post2.tele.dk HoTMaiL (www.e-mail) channel6denmark@hotmail.com --------------------------------------------------- --------------A71C1F38ADFA84F3A740E794 ------------------------------[ <- Message 5 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970916 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 14:18:08 +0100 From: Iwan Vosloo <"Iwan Vosloo"> Subject: Re-moulds Hi all, all this talk of re-moulds is interesting to me. Because I have to get new tires soon and I really, really don't want to pay a lot. It sounds as if a number of you have tried them. Can they take the punch off-road? I seem to have the habit of going places with lots af big nasty rocks to climb over - how do they compare to new tires in these circumstances? - Iwan Vosloo ( 1975 SIII 88" Diesel ) ------------------------------[ <- Message 6 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970916 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Davies, Scott" <sdavies@monetpost.stdavids.ncr.com> Subject: RE: Electric fans. Old discussion, new argument Date: Mon, 15 Sep 97 13:26:00 PDT The PO of my 110 fitted a Kenlowe fan inplace of the viscous unit (Kenlowe infront of radiator though). I haven't had any overheating problems; in Scotland the problem is usually how to get any heat in there at all :-( Scott Davies '85 110 2.5D HT ---------- From: Jan Schokker Subject: Electric fans. Old discussion, new argument Date: 15 September 1997 13:31 No reply on the UK list, so let's take this global... Apologies to people who, like me, subscribe to both. Hi all, I know this subject has been covered extensively in the past, but I still have a question about something I heard. A local Landrover Mechanic told me to avoid electric cooling fans as a substitute for the solid-mounted engine driven fan unless I was keen on changing the head gasket all the time. He said that because of the 'old fashioned cooling system', with water going through the radiator the wrong way around (top to bottom) I was sure to have overheating problems without the stock fan. Any opinions on this from people who changed to electric? I like all the advantages of the swap, but don't want to damage my engine. Thanks in advance for any advice, Jan. Series III 109 2,25 petrol 1983 ------------------------------[ <- Message 7 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970916 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 8:51:09 -0400 From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov> Subject: Re: Electric fans. Old discussion, new argument Was your mechanic friend pulling your leg or what? I hope he didn't tell you he had to change the air in the tires and lube your spark plugs. The coolant won't "change direction", it will still flow the same way. An electric fan only operates when you need it, instead of all the time (which causes some drag on the engine and robs HP.) Any speed over 10 miles per hour gives you enough breeze through the rad to obviate the fan in any case. Bill Adams 3D Artist/Animator '66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon, '81 Honda Goldwing 1100 Standard: "Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching" ------------------------------[ <- Message 8 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970916 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Sanna@aol.com Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 08:53:01 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: starter motor and strange behavior of dipped beam Message received. Thanks Anthony R. Sanna SACO Foods, Inc. 6120 University Avenue Middleton, Wisconsin 53562 USA 1-800-373-7226 (608) 238-9101 ------------------------------[ <- Message 9 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970916 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 14:26:19 +0100 From: Iwan Vosloo <ivosloo@cs.up.ac.za> Subject: SIII Clutch overhaul? Hi all, finally after many, many kilometers of needless worry my clutch did indeed start to slip. I would like to take the clutch and give it a really complete overhaul. I want to think it's new afterwards. Can you give me some advice about what to do in there? (I really know nothing at all about clutches... but, when I initially bought my car, I really did not know anything about engines - now I know this little truck's engine quite intimately. I'm hoping I can pull it of with clutches too :-) Also: What is the easiest way to get to the clutch with such an overhaul in mind? - Iwan Vosloo ( 1975 SIII 88" Diesel ) ------------------------------[ <- Message 10 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970916 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 14:20:32 +0000 From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth) Subject: RE: Electric fans. Old discussion, new argument >He said that because of the 'old fashioned cooling system', with water going >through the radiator the wrong way around (top to bottom) Eh?? Old fashioned it undoubtedly is,but its physics.Hot water in the top header is cooled by airflow through the radiator and sinks through it to arrive,if not cold,at least coldER in the bottom header.Its called "thermosyphon,pump and fan assisted".The water pump makes sure its getting round,and the fan increases airflow through the radiator.The rad being so big it doesnt always need the fan,so the electric fan,cutting in only when required,gives a certain fuel economy.Sounds like your mate thinks you are going to remove the water pump as well! Ask him if he knows what the Otto cycle is. Cheers Mike Rooth ------------------------------[ <- Message 11 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970916 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 09:07:36 -0400
Subject: Re: SIII Clutch overhaul?
Iwan,
Clutches are one of the easier things to deal with on a Series vehicle in
the power train - however you're still moving big lumps of metal around.
Basically, what you have to do is free the transmission from the engine,
slide it back (on a board placed underneath with the assistance of the
jack) and unbolt the clutch bits from the flywheel. Replace and reassemble.
Simple, no? Simple, no. ...
It can get tricky in a few points - mainly making sure that the new clutch
plate is lined up properly with the engine's flywheel, so the transmission
goes back in properly.
Also, aligning the transmission properly to get it back on the engine is
tricky. i recommend using 4 3/8" coarse-thread UNC bolts with the heads cut
off as locating pins, temporarily replacing 4 of the mounting studs on the
engine's bellhousing. It makes life much easier.
As far as replacing the clutch bits to new, there's not a big problem with
this. All you need to replace is the pressure plate (the bit that supplies
the "grab" to make the engine turn the transmission), and the clutch disk
(the bit the other part leans on). Lastly, if the flywheel is sored or
worn, have it resurfaced at a machine shop - and bring your manual along so
they do it right.
it's not a big deal, and you can do it following the directions in the
manual. I do recommend removing the seatbase also, even if the manual
doesn't. it gives much mre room to work.
In order, you end up:
Removig the floor
removing the seat base
disconnecting/removing the driveshafts (on my truck they need to come out)
disconnecting the parking brake and removing the cross-shaft if LHD
Disconnecting the speedometer cable
Unmounting the transmission and sliding it back on the board you put across
the crossmembers
Redoing the clutch bits
Reassembly is the reverse of disassembly...
aj"Hope this helps"r
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]Date: Mon, 15 Sep 97 13:20:20 From: Steve Mace <steve@solwise.demon.co.uk> Subject: Re: Re-moulds illegal??!!!!?? --- On Mon, 15 Sep 1997 09:27:20 +0000 Mike Rooth <M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk> = wrote: >>"Re-cut tyres are illegal on a Land Rover and would nullify the insurance= " >> So, are re-CUT tyres different to re-moulds, is this statement true or a= re >=09 [ truncated by lro-lite (was 7 lines)] >>******************************* >>Duncan Phillips >Re-CUT tyres are basically worn out tyres that have what tread they >still possess deepened with a sharp tool.Which on any tyre we are >likely to run leaves insufficient rubber at the base of the tread. >I beleive(correct me if I'm wrong someone)that lorry tyres can be [ truncated by list-digester (was 14 lines)] >Cheers >Mike Rooth(running on radial remoulds,and happy with them). -----------------End of Original Message----------------- So is a re-tread the same as a recut or a remould? I have just purchased 5 = Bronco retreads for my LtWt and I must say I am very impressed with them. T= hey were only =A342 each and seem excallent value for money. From close exa= mination it looks to me like a new thick layer of rubber has been put on th= e tread part of the tyre and then a new tread cut in. As a consequence the = tyre is the same dimensions as before and the tread depth the same as befor= e. I don't think these are classed as remould as they don't have remould wr= itten on the side wall. 1972 SIII LtWt 1993 D90 ------------------------------------- Name: Dr Steve Mace E-mail: steve@solwise.demon.co.uk www: http://www.demon.co.uk/solwise/ Tel: +44 1482 473899 Fax: +44 1482 472245 Date: 15/09/97 Time: 13:20:20 ------------------------------------- ------------------------------[ <- Message 13 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970916 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 15:58:23 +0200 From: ostkant@algonet.se (Boqvist,Holgerson) Subject: Change chassis serie II to serie III Hi I am rebuilding a serie IIa SWB from 1964. The chassis is my only problem so far. I have started welding it and I know I=B4m going to make more than 2/3 of it before I=B4m finished. Now I have the opportunity to change the chassis to a serie III 1982 chassis with axles, steering servo. What kind of problem will appear dressing it with the rest of the car? Is it worth it? Thanks in advance Anders LR II a,1964 petrol, Safari top. Chevrolet Blazer 1977, TBI engine. Mercedes Benz 220 1963 Norton Dominator 88 1955 ----------------- Boqvist/Holgerson Simrishamnsv=E4gen 1 121 53 Johanneshov. Sweden Phone/Fax: +46 (0) 8- 659 32 95 Mobile: +46 (0) 70- 497 40 41 ostkant@algonet.se www.algonet.se/~ostkant ------------------------------[ <- Message 14 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970916 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 14:59:12 +0100
From: Craig Morgan <C.Morgan@soc.staffs.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: Re-moulds illegal??!!!!??
At 8:28 am +0100 15/9/97, you wrote:
>Hi folks.....
>I bought a book at the week-end called 'The Handbook of Off Road Driving'
>by Julian Cremona and Keith Hart. Seems like a good book but I got to the
>section on tyres and they pointed out that re-moulds are a cheap
>alternative to expensive brand names, but then they say, and I quote (p.66)
>"Re-cut tyres are illegal on a Land Rover and would nullify the insurance"
[ truncated by list-digester (was 16 lines)]
>with a definitive answer as I'm just about to get 2 more re-moulds for the
>front.
Re-cutting is a process whereby the grooves are deepened into the rubber on
a tyre, these tyres are obliged in the UK to carry a stamp saying that
re-grooving is possible. Truck tyres tend to be re-groovable (ie. generally
very high profile rubber treads). Re-cutting is not advisable on most 4x4,
car tyres ...
Re-moulds on the other hand go through a re-manufacturing process, where
the tread rubber is skimmed off of the wire casement and the bands are then
re-covered with a new rubber profile. Some foreign imports have caused
problems in the UK, reputable re-moulders (ie. Colway) have very stringent
safety testing and get their tyres re-rated to very high standards. I've
run Colway remoulds in the past on road/rally cars and have been delighted
with their performance. I believe their new range of AT/MT tyres for 4x4 is
100mph rated (as fast as I'd ever want to go on MT tyres in a Land Rover!),
and meets all UK/EEC specs.
I've looked around for 4 (cheapish) new MT-type tyres for my RR and so far,
the Colway MT looks the best at the price. Anyone comment on the new
Craddocks range of tyres by Dean, they looked OK in this months mags, but
I've yet to ring about price...
--
Craig
,,, Wot, NO mountains!
======================oOO=(o o)=OOo===================================
Craig Morgan (_) Senior Lecturer in
Computer Networking Technology
School of Computing Email: C.Morgan@soc.staffs.ac.uk
Staffordshire University Phone: +44 (0)1785 353466
Beaconside Fax: +44 (0)1785 353497
Stafford, UK ST18 0DG Pager: +44 (0)1523 109409
"It's the downhill thrills, that make the uphill slog worthwhile..."
======================================================================
------------------------------
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]From: Chuque Henry <ChuqueH@isco.com> Subject: Testimony, just because Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 09:06:13 -0500 I love my Rover. It has been the faithful quiet companion for me. We were doing some home improvements this weekend and needed to move a lot of bags of dirt and rock. We even took the dog a long on one trip (he thinks the Rover is HIS vehicle) and generally had a really good time. I bought a palette of bags of rock (55 bags total) and some of the employees helped me load it all in the Rover. After I put the last bag in they just stood there with awe on there faces that it had all gone in. Ol' Nanook just drove home with no complaints. It's such a great dependable vehicle I just felt that I need to tell everyone how much we love our Rover. My wife was even talking about trading in her del Sol for a D90. She loves her little v-tec del Sol so that is a pretty big statement. Now if I could just keep the Lotus running... -Q "Where Did I Go Today?" 1970 Series IIa 88 Land Rover "Nanook" 1977 Series I Lotus Esprit (#118) ------------------------------[ <- Message 16 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970916 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 16:15:04 +0200 From: Jan Schokker <janjan@xs4all.nl> Subject: Re: Electric fans. Old discussion, new argument At 08:51 15-9-97 -0400, you wrote: >Was your mechanic friend pulling your leg or what? I hope he didn't tell >you he had to change the air in the tires and lube your spark plugs. >The coolant won't "change direction", it will still flow the same way. An >electric fan only operates when you need it, instead of all the time >(which causes some drag on the engine and robs HP.) >Any speed over 10 miles per hour gives you enough breeze through the rad >to obviate the fan in any case. >Bill Adams Oh dear, I feel a bit stupid about not realising that coolant flow from top to bottom IS the right way around. This all sounds like I don't know anything about physics, cars, water flowing. And I even know who Bernoulli was! Really, I do! But, thanks for the advise. So Spenny, you can have the oilcooler, 'cause it will have to go when I put a fan in front of the radiator. Jan. ------------------------------[ <- Message 17 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970916 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden) Subject: Re: Electric fans. Old discussion, new argument Date: Mon, 15 Sep 97 15:20:07 BST > >Was your mechanic friend pulling your leg or what? I hope he didn't tell > >you he had to change the air in the tires and lube your spark plugs. > [ truncated by lro-lite (was 9 lines)] > >to obviate the fan in any case. > >Bill Adams > Oh dear, I feel a bit stupid about not realising that coolant flow from top > to bottom IS the right way around. This all sounds like I don't know [ truncated by list-digester (was 14 lines)] > will have to go when I put a fan in front of the radiator. > Jan. I don't know the size of your oil cooler (or what vehicle was it?), but I still have the military oilcooler in my SIII with the Kenlowe Fan. The space between the radiator and the grille is *huge* on a sIII (okay, I exagerate a *little*) Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR) ------------------------------[ <- Message 18 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970916 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 09:29:12 -0500 (CDT) From: David Kurzman <kurzman@ix.netcom.com> Subject: Re: Electric fans. Old discussion, new argument >A local Landrover Mechanic told me to avoid electric cooling fans as a >substitute for the solid-mounted engine driven fan unless I was keen on >changing the head gasket all the time. >He said that because of the 'old fashioned cooling system', with water going >through the radiator the wrong way around (top to bottom) I was sure to have >overheating problems without the stock fan. >Any opinions on this from people who changed to electric? [ truncated by list-digester (was 14 lines)] >Jan. >Series III 109 2,25 petrol 1983 I hope this helps. About 5 years ago I ordered an unleaded head from Turner in the UK. As my 109 ran a bit hot I asked Mr. Turner his opinion on fitting an electric cooling fan. He told me not to do it because of overheating. Now I'm no mechanic and I was up at 4am calling England so I don't remember exactly the whole story but it was something to do with the "heating curve" (or something like that). I apologize for being so vague about this. I just figured that the owner of Turner Engineering would know what he was talking about and took his word. I do remember him saying that the only L-R head that ever came back to him was from a truck that had fitted an electric cooling fan. Best, Dave in Va. ------------------------------[ <- Message 19 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970916 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: jfhess@wheel.dcn.davis.ca.us Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 07:53:22 -0700 Subject: And a Whitworth wrench! (from the Portland ME all british meet) someone in the idyllic place of idyllwild asked: I forgot to ask the most important question: Where can I find a set of Whitworth tools--sockets, end wrenches--for a reasonable price? British Wire wheel (408) 479-4495 in Santa Cruz (CA) has the master mechanic set, 11 pieces, $54, made in Germany. On the recommendation of a friend I bought a set and while I haven't used anyone of them yet, I know the wrenches will be used. cheers, you owe me pint? John F Hess 1968 Land Rover Dormobile "Elvis" jfhess@wheel.dcn.davis.ca.us 1984 Mazda GLC "Mazda box" dormobile homepage: 1960 swb pu "Stubby" (actually Katherine's) http://wheel.dcn.davis.ca.us/~jfhess/homepage.html ------------------------------[ <- Message 20 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970916 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com> Subject: LR's for sale in Vancouver BC Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 08:56:57 -0700 Hi All, Just got back from a trip to Vancouver. Found the following adds in the Vancouver classifieds: "1970 Land Rover 88 Series 2A, all original, 18,849 miles, interior & exterior in excellent condition, original manuals, jack & tools, 16" rims, (2) hoods, Warn winch, rear seats, $15,500 firm" "Hydraulic snow plow for Land Rover, $1500" "Land Rover SWB, overdrive, free wheeling hubs, 16" wheels, $7000.00" "1965 Land Rover 109, White, 2.25L gas eng., HT, new ST and OD, (2) fuel tanks, runs & looks great $7000.00" "1954 Land Rover 107 Pickup for parts, $500.00" "1957 Land Rover 109 Pickup, good running condition, $3500.00" All prices are in Canadian Dollars. (take 30% off to convert to American $) I have not seen any of these vehicles, I am merely retyping adds that I found in the paper. If you are interested, please e-mail me directly for phone numbers. Paul Quin 1961 Series II 88 Victoria, BC Canada Paul_Quin@pml.com ------------------------------[ <- Message 21 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970916 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Subject: Tires for '95 Discovery From: Atul Chhabra <atul@Nynexst.COM> Date: 15 Sep 1997 11:58:48 -0400 Has anyone tried non OEM tires on a Discovery. I just bought a used '95 Discovery with about 40K miles. The original tires have very little tread left on them. The Land Rover dealer wants USD 200 for each tire. The closest tire made by Michelin in the US is the Michelin LTX M/S P235/70R16 which is available through mail order for USD 104 per tire plus shipping. Has anyone tried this specific tire on a Discovery? Any other tires that one would like to recommend? Although the original tires on the Discovery are made by Michelin, the Michelin on-line tire selecter at http://www.michelin.com/us/eng/tire/select/p1.htm says "currently, Michelin does not make a replacement tire for this vehicle." Thanks in advance for your help. --Atul ------------ Atul K. Chhabra Phone: (914)644-2786 Member of Technical Staff Fax: (914)644-2561 Bell Atlantic Corporation Email: atul@nynexst.com 500 Westchester Avenue White Plains, NY 10604, USA ------------------------------[ <- Message 22 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970916 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org Date: Mon, 15 Sep 97 14:10:56 EST Subject: Re: Change chassis serie II to serie III Hi I am rebuilding a serie IIa SWB from 1964......snip... I have the opportunity to change the chassis to a serie III 1982 chassis with axles, steering servo. What kind of problem will appear dressing it with the rest of the car? Is it worth it? Well, I did the reverse, swapped my '72 series III onto a Series II (or early SIIA) chassis. Yes it is worth it if the chassis is in good nick. You will need to switch to a later style pivot for the handbrake bellcrank, and you will need to drill new holes for the rear body to chassis outrigger bolts. The SIII chassis will also likely have space for more bolts along the crossmember under the back edge of the seatbox. These I believe can be used if you drill out the rear tub. What you propose to do is easier than what i did, as I had to remove part of the engine x-member to make room for the SIII clutch slave. Go for it! later DaveB. Arlington VA '72 SIII SWB ------------------------------[ <- Message 23 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970916 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "S. Vels" <dko5319@vip.cybercity.dk> Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 20:40:31 +0001 Subject: RE: Electric fans. Old discussion, new argument Mike Rooth wrote: > you are going to remove the water pump as well! Ask him if he knows what > the Otto cycle is. A motorbike? New address: dko5319@vip.cybercity.dk ------------------------------[ <- Message 24 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970916 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "S. Vels" <dko5319@vip.cybercity.dk> Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 20:40:31 +0001 Subject: Re: Clutch slave, Howto > From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden) > What vehicle do you have? The SIIs and SIIIs definitely don't need to. > Its a fiddle, but you only need to undo 2 nuts to undo the slave. There's > also the pipe (if it isn't seized!) of course. Also, for bleeding, you need > to get at the slave, without removing the g/box! Should have told you it's a sIII. The only thing i was worrying about was the extraction and insertion of the cylinder. On the (slightly inaccurate) drawing, 1RC661A, it looks as if the cap is going to stay inside when i pull the cylinder body. I'm very familiar with the bleeding process, thanks very much. >From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk> >While you are about it - you could make a short bleeder extension so >that the bleed nipple is fed up and over the cylinder and becomes I'm planning to use a spare brake pipe for that. My brother has this arrangement installed, and he's grinning every time i call for peddle asistance. >is you nowe miss the undeniable privilegde of lying under the car >whilst your wife or friend sprays sticky cluth fluid down your >face, hair, glasses and best shirt - too bad eh? The fact that i don't wear glasses brings a extra dimension into the bleeding adventure. When i see a drop of fluid aiming for my eye i rapidly move the head and bang it into the exhaust pipe. The pipe is not stainless so it's covered with loose rust flakes. I shut my eyes, but too late. I get half a rusted exhaust pipe into the eyes and inside my overall. To remove the rust flakes from the eyes i need to get out from under the car. The door is open because the assistant needs to go back and forth between the seat and the clutch master. I bang the back of my head into the bottom of the door. I end up with burning eyes, a headache and an itch all over the torso. Ever heard the song "Why Paddy's not at work today"?. Thanks both rgds sv/aurens ------------------------------[ <- Message 25 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970916 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 16:49:12 -0400 (EDT) From: "William L. Leacock" <wleacock@pipeline.com> Subject: Recut tyres Duncan Phillips asks about tyre recutting. Do not confuse remoulding and recutting. A remould is a complets outer skin moulded onto a used tyre casing from which the outer skin and tread has been ground off. Recapping is replacing the tread part of the tyre with a cap., i.e a moulded ring with the tread pattern on the outside. usually glued on. Recutting, or regrooving is a process where grooves are cut into the tyre to create a tread pattern. it is common in varoius racing styles and is aslo common in the commercial vehicle industry. In the UK tyres of 7.50 x 16" 8 ply and above are usually made with an allowance in the rubber depth for the grooves to be cut deeper when the tyre has worn. On the larger tyres for heavier trucks there are drwings available of the sizes and depths of cut permissiable. In the UK a7.50 x 16 tyre, that can be legally recut for say a 7.5 GVW truck which is capable of travelling at the legal speed limit, cannot be used, once it has been recut, on a LR which may have a GVW of say 3 tons and may not be capable of travelling at 70 mph. This is because of the " dual purpose " status of the Rover. Tyre cutting is done with a special tool in which a blade, the shape of the groove, is heated and pushed through the tyre, the heat makes the blade cut the rubber like butter. Bill Leacock Limey in exile 89 RR; 67 - 109 and early 88. ------------------------------[ <- Message 26 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970916 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 23:11:15 +0200 From: lopezba@atnet.at Subject: S I Restoration "Donald A. Put" <daput@pe.net> had some questions about his 1955 S I. First of all, congratulations on getting it, and best wishes for your plans! If you want to keep it as original as posible, there is an excellent and very beautiful book: Original Land-Rover Series I James Taylor Photos by Rowan Isaac Bay View Books ISBN 1 870979 72 9 1.) Where are the best places to get parts for Series I rovers? I don't know about the USA, but in the UK I would go to Dunsfold LR or Blanchards. I would keep away from Craddock, the lower prices are not worth the problems. If you have any specific problems, let me know, I have a small data base of S I suppliers by now. 2.) Are there updates to the brakes or other systems that I should consider? Some people upgrade to a dual brake system for safety reasons, but this is a major job and requires a lot of modification. Many change to negative earth since it allows them to use modern electric and electronic equipment, and stronger generators. Again, this is more a question of what you need or want to do than anything else. 3.) Should I keep an eye out for a 2.25 from a Series II or just rebuild the stock engine? I would rebuild the engine; at 60.000 miles it is barely run in. 4.) Will most Series II powertrain components bolt right into a Series I? The gearbox is almost the same, so are the diffs. No advantage in changing, though, as far as I can see. The axles and halfshafts, etc. are different - a little longer on the S II. 5.) Are there updated "no-lead" valves, guides, and seats available for this old F head? You can get hardened exhaust valve seats from the Series One Club Shop. They are 32 UKP for a set of four. They don't sell to the USA, and the valve seats are only sold to members. If you can't find any anywhere else, let me know. 6.) I plan on going through the tranny, steering box, and both diffs. Any peculiar things to look out for or "beef" up a bit? I am not aware of anything special. 7.) Should I install an overdrive unit? If so, which one? The Fairey/Superwinch unit is standard, but comparatively weak; oil should be changed often, and the unit should only be used in fourth or maybe in third gear. I have heard of Toro units available in the USA, and they are supposed to be superior, but I have never seen one myself and they would all be second hand by now, afaik. Be wary of second-hand Fairey units, btw, they often have reached the end of their useful life. As for tools - at lwast the larger German toolmakers still make Whitworth tolls. I bought a set of open-jawed and ring spanners for less than 100 USD, and they will last forever. Any good toolshop should be able to help you. Best regards Peter Hirsch Vienna, Austria Series One 107in Station Wagon (in bits and pieces) ------------------------------[ <- Message 27 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970916 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 18:40:20 +0900 From: Winn Bearden <wbearden@americus.net> Subject: engine conversion I've got a 109" SW that I am doing a frameover on, and don't have an engine. I have in my possession a 6-cyl Chevy, a 300 cu. in. ford six, and a couple of 120 hp Mercruiser engines (chevy). I know a Scottie's plate will work on the Chevys, but does anyone know where I can find an adapter to work on the Ford? ( My 109 originally had the six, so I should have room for any one of these engines. Haven't made up my mind on what to use, may even go with a 2.25 that I can get pretty reasonably (needs a complete rebuild). The six- cyl Ford would be my first choice, as it is ready to run. Any input would be appreciated. -- Winn Bearden P.O. Box 464 Americus, GA 31709 912-924-6513 (H) 912-928-4984 (CELL) ------------------------------[ <- Message 28 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970916 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 20:09:52 -0400 From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com> Subject: Re: Poncho 173... (long) Adams, Bill wrote: > I may be all wrong, but I think there's great advantage to the inline > six > over the V-six in terms of low-end pull and overall powerband. The > v-six > develops its horsepower higher in the RPM range than an inline six. > These > are usually seen attached to an automatic transmission so that the > engine > won't die on you when you are in low speed/high load situations. I would generally disagree. The GMC V6 of the early sixties was a pure truck engine known for it's torque. The Jeep V6 was very popular for it's torque and power. I can think of some L6 engines which wouldn't make great off-road engines such as the Jag 3.8. Power/torque characteristics are mostly a function of the cam and induction system design. Choice of engine configuration usually depends on packaging, and parts and manufacturing compatibility. L6 engines can be machined on the same line as a L4, hence the Rover 2.6 & 3.0 L6 based on the 2.0 L4. V6 engines are shorter, and 90 deg V6 can be machined on the same line as a V8. More LR content. Rover built several V6 engines derived from the V8 for Rally cars. At least one of these engines showed up in a comp safari LR as a Rover engine under ARC rules. Also, the current GM 3800 V6 and Rover V8 can be traced back to the same origins; the Buick 3.5 aluminum V8. Regards, David Cockey ------------------------------[ <- Message 29 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970916 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: JLTQ@aol.com Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 20:31:23 -0400 (EDT) Subject: No Subject We are new LR owners (Discovery SE7 1997) what do we do for info?????????? ------------------------------[ <- Message 30 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970916 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Subject: Re: LR visit/1998 Discovery Date: Mon, 15 Sep 97 20:37:24 -0000 From: David Russell <David_R@mindspring.com> On 9/15/97 10:56 owner-lro-digest@playground.sun.com wrote: >Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 08:38:00 +0100 >From: Duncan Phillips <dunk@ivanhoe.soc.staffs.ac.uk> >Subject: LR Factory Visit >Hi all.... >Towards the end of the tour they told us that they'd consulted the >management and they'd said we could see (but not inspect) a new engine >that's still under development, here's all the details they'd give out: >It's a 2.5 litre 5-cylinder deisel engine with an aluminium head codenamed >'storm'. They wouldn't say what vehicle it was intended for (souped up >freeloader maybe??) "European Car", 11/97 issue, reports that the mid-1998 model will have a longer rear overhang for a third row of seats, a wider c-pillar and smaller windows, and some cosmetic changes. In addition, they report, "an aluminum V8 and a new five-cylinder 2.25L Diesel" will be available. They do not specify which markets this applies to. Cheers David Russell http://www.mindspring.com/~david_r David_R@mindspring.com 1969 SIIA SWB (Pastel Green, 4-speed) 1997 SD (Oxford Blue, 5-speed) 1977 FJ40 (rust, 8-speed (hopefully still)) ------------------------------[ <- Message 31 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970916 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 21:12:22
From: James Wolf <J.Wolf@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: never heard of that?
This is a new one - amusing, indeed, considering they're the same aluminum
structure that's on my 109.
I'd check your sources on that one...
you av' I suppose heard of what happens when two dissemilar metals come
together (very close together) even our precious Birmabright turns to
whiteish powder. I think of the album (Rust never Sleeps) neither does
Galvanic action, it's just not as poetic.
Jim Wolf
1966 sIIa 109 sw 12 seater*****under renovation 8^).
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]Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 21:21:40 From: James Wolf <J.Wolf@worldnet.att.net> Subject: Gas tank cleaning. From: Dean Meyer <Dean.Meyer@internord.net> Subject: Re: Tank Cleaners Here's my ten senz, Chuck a short piece of chain in the tank, lift it over your head and shake the beejeezus out of it all the while shouting "Bring out your dead, bring out your dead"! :>) Dean, that's really good, it might even work too. Maybe, it would be cheaper to just take it to the Rad. shop. If not, check in Hemmings for a cleaner. I think SIMPLE GREEN or a similar soap would do the trick. I have used it quite a lot during my frame over on the 109. Jim Wolf ------------------------------[ <- Message 33 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970916 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Kathleen Hollington <kholling@nrn1.NRCan.gc.ca> Subject: IIa questions Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 21:22:48 -0400 (EDT) Hi, Tried sending a couple of messages to the list before, using my offline email reader, and was not successful. Will try this way, typing online, and hope it gets there. Finally became a LR owner a couple of months ago, after having wanted one off and on for about 25 years. Got a 66 SWB IIA, with a new frame, the drivetrain sitting on a pallet (engine seized) a "newish" 2.25 to be assembled with parts from the original, wiring to be added pretty well from scratch, and brake work to be done. Sort of like a half-completed restoration job, which I now have to assemble (never having worked on one before) and hope it all works when I get it back together. Heck it's fun so far. Nice to get my hands on some tools and grease after too many years sitting behind a desk at a computer. Couple of questions for you all: 1. I need a gas tank for it. Is it possible to get one built from scratch (aluminum or steel) rather easily? Or is it just simpler to fork over the $200 for a new one, plus another $90 or so for a sender unit? 2. Most of the body panels are in very good condition, and painted with the light green colors. I have a black bonnet and 2 military doors which I'd like to paint to match the body. Any special work have to be done? Ie. does the old paint have to be stripped right down to the aluminum? Or can one paint right over the old one after sanding it down a bit? I'm not aiming for a concourse truck, just a solid dependable Rover that looks half-decent. 3. I have an old Rochester single barrel carb for it (not sure I have all the linkages though) which apparenlty worked. Also an original Solex. Would it be better to rebuild the Solex, fix the Rochester, or go with a new Weber (I'm trying to fix this thing on the cheap for now, to get it going) That's about it for now. Don't want to write too much in case the message doesn't get to the list. Hope it does, it's not too much fun just being on the receiving end, though it's fun to read and learn from the postings. Regards, --Robert -- Robert St-Louis -- OTTAWA/CANADA -- '68 IIA SWB LR -- kholling@nrn1.nrcan.gc.ca.NOSPAM (remove NOSPAM when replying) ------------------------------[ <- Message 34 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970916 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 21:31:18 From: James Wolf <J.Wolf@worldnet.att.net> Subject: Front swival spacers. I am ready to start putting the front end together and need some advice about the spacers on the swivals. Is there a more common combination that I should buy? I really don't want to buy a bag full of different sizes. I managed to save only 5 from the tear-down, I am almost sure that there were more. HELP!!! Jim Wolf 1966 109 sIIa sw 12 seater ------------------------------[ <- Message 35 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970916 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 18:47:48 -0700 From: Jeremy Bartlett <bartlett@slip.net> Subject: Re: IIa questions Kathleen Hollington wrote: > 1. I need a gas tank for it. (snip) Or is it just > simpler to fork over the $200 for a new one, plus another $90 or > so for a sender unit? Yes > 2. (snip) I'd like to paint to match the body. Any special work > have to be done? Ie. does the old paint have to be stripped right > down to the aluminum? Or can one paint right over the old one after > sanding it down a bit? Depends on the paint type and incompatabilities. In your part of the worldyour probably ok just cleaning and overspraying. > 3. I have an old Rochester single barrel carb for it (not sure I > have all the linkages though) which apparenlty worked. Also an > original Solex. Would it be better to rebuild the Solex, fix the > Rochester, or go with a new Weber Probably fix the Rochester, but thats depends on who you're talking to.You could also get a new Zenith for under $100 from the UK, but Zeniths have their own problems. cheers Jeremy ------------------------------[ <- Message 36 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970916 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: lroshop@idirect.com Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 22:06:23 +0000 Subject: Re: Tires for '95 Discovery > Subject: Tires for '95 Discovery > From: Atul Chhabra <atul@Nynexst.COM> > Has anyone tried this specific tire on a > Discovery? Any other tires that one would like to recommend? Depends what you intend to use the vehicle for. As part of an article on the Discovery for North America, to be published in an upcoming edition of LROI, I fitted B.F.Goodrich Mud Terrains. These have proved to be brilliant, as proved at the DownEast where we tackled every obstacle and never had to dig, winch, or push. Thats more than be said for a lot of others. Road noise is not bad although the wear is significant because we carry a lot of weight, winch, bumper, skid plate, diff guards, rock sliders, rack etc. BFG is owned by Michelin. I am told the All Terrains are good as well. Regards Kevin Girling LROI ------------------------------[ <- Message 37 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970916 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 23:21:24 -0400 (EDT)
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Cuttin' up
Duncan Phillips wrote:
>"Re-cut tyres are illegal...." So, are re-CUT tyres different to
re-moulds....?
I'm not sure what you call them in the UK (that old bit about being
separated by a common language), but I believe that they are talking about
re-groovable tires. In the US, these are often found on heavy trucks
(lorries) and semi tractor-trailers, 20" diameter and larger. As the tread
rubber on truck tires is quite thick (several times thicker than passenger
cars or light trucks), special knives with hot tips allow new treads to be
cut when part of the original tread has been worn down. Re-cut passenger
car tires would be dangerous, indeed.
*---"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
| A. P. (Sandy) Grice |
| Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd. |
| "The oldest Rover-marque club in the Americas" |
| 1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730 |
| E-mail: rover@pinn.net Phone: 757-622-7054 (Day) |
| 757-423-4898 (Evenings) FAX: 757-622-7056 |
| |
*---1972 Series III 88"-----1996 Discovery SE-7(m)---*
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]From: Daryl Webb <dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au> Subject: Otto's Cycle Date: Tue, 16 Sep 1997 13:52:21 +0930 (CST) Mike (oily-wadder) Rooth writes: > Ask him if he knows what the Otto cycle is. Mike you heathen, wash your mouth out. Regarding the August Nicolaus Otto's bike, surely what is important is that we all know Rover built the first Safety - cycle. Who cares about Otto's bike anyway, certainly not Felix Wankel Cheers -- Daryl Webb (dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au) ------------------------------[ <- Message 39 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970916 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: JSmallals@aol.com Date: Tue, 16 Sep 1997 00:46:12 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: IIa questions Rebuild the Rochester...a rebuild kit is about six dollars from your local parts store...I have tried a solex and a zenith on my IIA and I find the Rochester works better than anything so far! J.S. 66IIA SWB "Emmett" ------------------------------[ <- Message 40 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970916 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 16 Sep 1997 01:18:32 -0400 From: David L Glaser <dlglaser@wam.umd.edu> Subject: Re: Tires for '95 Discovery > Has anyone tried non OEM tires on a Discovery. I just bought a used > '95 Discovery with about 40K miles. The original tires have very > little tread left on them. The Land Rover dealer wants USD 200 for > each tire. The closest tire made by Michelin in the US is the Michelin > LTX M/S P235/70R16 which is available through mail order for USD 104 >per tire plus shipping. Has anyone tried this specific tire on a > Discovery? Any other tires that one would like to recommend? Thats odd. A few weeks ago when my dad needed new tyres on his Disco, the local tyre guy was able to get the stock Disco Michelins. And yes, they were $200 a piece. My dad went with the General Grabber. It has a very similar tread design to the Michelins, but has 3 channels with run down the center for better wet/mud performance. They got a very good rating from LRO, and suprising enough, these are the stock tyre on the new Mercedes jeep. My dad payed $80 a tyre. I think they're just as good, if not better than the michelins. The Trek vehicles, used BFG Mud-Terrains. Since these tyres are desinged more for off-road, rather than on-road performance, they wear faster and have more tread noise. These are not available in 235/75. LR uses 225/75. Or, you could also get 245/75, 235/85, etc. price club has these for $96!!! I'm planning on getting the All-Terrains, which is the less agressive version of the Mud-Terrains. They are supposed to wear very well, upwards of 60,000 miles. They are somewhat louder than the stock michelins, but i have a roof rack, so I don't care. Dunlop makes a decent 4x4 tyre. Pirelli makes a very nice tyre. But its designed more for the street, so your off-road performance will suffer. LR uses this tyre on the RR 4.6 HSE. i don't know the price, but i'm sure its not cheap. hope this helps. David Glaser ------------------------------[ <- Message 41 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970916 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 16 Sep 1997 01:22:01 -0400 From: David L Glaser <dlglaser@wam.umd.edu> Subject: New Disco Owner > We are new LR owners (Discovery SE7 1997) what do we do for info?????????? Well, what would you like to know? David G ------------------------------[ <- Message 42 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970916 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 16 Sep 1997 08:51:39 +0200 From: Jan Schokker <janjan@xs4all.nl> Subject: Re: Electric fans. Old discussion etc. At 09:29 15-9-97 -0500, you wrote: >I hope this helps. About 5 years ago I ordered an unleaded head from Turner in the UK. As my 109 ran a bit hot I asked Mr. Turner his opinion on fitting an electric cooling fan. He told me not to do it because of overheating. Now I'm no mechanic and I was up at 4am calling England so I don't remember exactly the whole story but it was something to do with the "heating curve" (or something like that). I apologize for being so vague about this. I just figured that the owner of Turner Engineering would know what he was talking about and took his word. I do remember him saying that the only L-R head that ever came back to him was from >a truck that had fitted an electric cooling fan. Best, Dave in Va. Everything helps, even if it makes a decision harder.. My mechanic also mumbled something about a heat-curve. Maybe what they mean is that without the stock fan the head warms up to quickly? Jan. ------------------------------[ <- Message 43 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970916 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Franz Parzefall <franz@max.physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de>
Subject: Re: Electric fans. Old discussion etc.
Date: Tue, 16 Sep 1997 09:01:10 +0200 (MET DST)
Jan and others mumble about heat curves:
| My mechanic also mumbled something about a heat-curve. Maybe what they mean
| is that without the stock fan the head warms up to quickly?
I may be completly wrong, but I think you all forget about the thermostat.
AFAIK this thingy makes the water bypass the radiator until the engine
has warmed up. This would make the cooling effect of either fan marginal
(exept cooling the block itself) until the thermostat opens. So the
warmup curve should be the same with electrical and mechanical fans.
Just my 2cents...
Franz
Franz Parzefall franz@physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de
http://www.physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de/~franz
_______
[____|\_\==
[_-__|__|_-] Brumml, exmil. 1989 Land Rover 110 2.5D
___.._(0)..._.(0)__..- still with the oldfashioned fan....
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]Date: Tue, 16 Sep 1997 02:45:01 -0500 (EST) From: David Scheidt <david@math.earlham.edu> Subject: Re: Electric fans. Old discussion etc. On Tue, 16 Sep 1997, Franz Parzefall wrote: > Jan and others mumble about cabbages, kings, electric fans, and heat curves: One problem I have heard of vehicles converted to electric fans is there is a tendancy to make them come on a little later, to save a bit more fuel. With some engines, diesels with Al heads in particular, you can get very hot spots, even though the average engine temp is low. This can be very damaging, warping the head or causing the head gasket to fail. David -------- David_Scheidt@math.earlham.edu yip yip yip yap yap yak yap yip *BANG* -- no terrier ------------------------------[ <- Message 45 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970916 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 16 Sep 1997 09:40:35 +0000 From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth) Subject: Re: Otto's Cycle Mike you heathen, wash your mouth out. Regarding the August Nicolaus Otto's bike, surely what is important is that we all know Rover built the first Safety - cycle. Who cares about Otto's bike anyway, certainly >not Felix Wankel >Cheers > Daryl Webb (dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au) I knew it!Crocodile Dundee strikes again.Not content with nicking the Ashes(by totally unfair means I might add,viz bowling *overarm*) he has to add insult to injury.We *know* they're a bunch of Wankels. They bought Rover didnt they:-) Cheers Mike Rooth ------------------------------[ <- Message 46 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970916 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 16 Sep 1997 09:59:14 +0100 From: Mick Forster <cmtmgf@mail.soc.staffs.ac.uk> Subject: Re: What to do for info JLTQ@aol.com wrote: > We are new LR owners (Discovery SE7 1997) what do we do for info?????????? Just ask what you want to know .......... Mick Forster cmtmgf@mail.soc.staffs.ac.uk Series III LWB Safari (1973) Series IIa SWB (1963) IIa gearbox in bits (Oh, and a 1986 Metro) ------------------------------[ <- Message 47 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970916 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 16 Sep 1997 07:09:03 +0100 From: "Said Geoffrey at MITTS" <Geoffrey.Said@magnet.mt> Subject: Brake dragging I have a brake piston which has stuck open and I am dragging a brake. Any tips how to remove the bloody drum so that I can get access to the bloody piston? Is it normal that in the above conditions the landrover makes a noise like a cross has gone?? Thanks Geoffrey ------------------------------[ <- Message 48 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970916 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 16 Sep 1997 04:35:25 -0500 (EST) From: David Scheidt <david@math.earlham.edu> Subject: Re: Brake dragging On Tue, 16 Sep 1997, Said Geoffrey at MITTS wrote: > I have a brake piston which has stuck open and I am dragging a brake. Any tips > how to remove the bloody drum so that I can get access to the bloody piston? Lossen the adjuster(s); this should be enough to let you pull the drum. A big gear puller, or a grade 8 bolt (Any thing else will drop its threads.) that fits the hole that you didn't take a screw out of and a Really Big mallet will help. > Is it normal that in the above conditions the landrover makes a noise like a > cross has gone?? I should expect that it makes quite a lot of noise, though i confess not to know what you mean by a cross. DAvdi, who will someday learmn to ttyep; -------- David_Scheidt@math.earlham.edu yip yip yip yap yap yak yap yip *BANG* -- no terrier ------------------------------[ <- Message 49 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970916 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 16 Sep 1997 11:50:47 +0200 From: Jan Schokker <janjan@xs4all.nl> Subject: Landrovers in software Hi all, In MS Publisher 97 you get a clipart file called 4x4_1.wmf which is a rather nice drawing of a disco with roofrack and bull/rhino/roobar. This one I like even better: In "Connor backup Exec" that I got with a floppy-controler 420 MB tapestreamer I bought a few years ago there are buttons for standard backup settings. For "fast" you press a button with a red sportscar, and for "reliable" you have a button with a white defender! Any more that you know of? Cheers, Jan. ------------------------------[ <- Message 50 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970916 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 16 Sep 1997 12:51:20 +0400 (EET DST) From: "Dr. Semih Bingol" <semih@leo.ee.hun.edu.tr> Subject: SER Performance Head Hello everybody, Sept. issue of LROI features an interesting article about a UK company named Automotive which manufactures unleaded and performance heads for 2.25 gas engines. I think a thread was about to start on this a few days ago but for some unknown reason I have not received anything for the last 3 days. I apologize if this topic has already been discussed. For those who have not read the article, the new head costs 300 UKP and features unleaded conversion plus head modification. Compression increased to 9:1 by shaving metal from the head. Dist, ignition, plugs, etc are retained. With the addition of a special intake manifold, an SU carb and a special exhaust/silencer, power gain of 15-18 hp and torque gain of 20 lb-ft claimed. My questions are : 1) What is a Powerplus SU carb? Who sources it? 2) If anybody on this list (possibly Brits) has tried this upgrade, I would like to hear his/her opinion on performance and, equally (or even more) important, mileage comparison. 3) In general, performance upgrades are known to shorten engine life. This one, on the other hand, looks like a relatively innocent trick to me. Any comments? Semih Bingoel 74SWB 2.25 petrol ------------------------------[ <- Message 51 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970916 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 16 Sep 1997 12:19:25 +0200 From: Jan Schokker <janjan@xs4all.nl> Subject: Re: Electric fans. Old discussion etc. Jan and others mumble about. At 09:01 16-9-97 +0200, Franz wrote: > I may be completly wrong, but I think you all forget about the thermostat. AFAIK this thingy makes the water bypass the radiator until the engine has warmed up. This would make the cooling effect of either fan marginal (exept cooling the block itself) until the thermostat opens. So the warmup curve should be the same with electrical and mechanical fans. Franz, I know that, but I always wondered how Kenlowe can claim a "much faster warm-up in winter". So I concluded that there is always some water going past the closed thermostat. I removed the fan once, and the engine did warm up more quickly. Surely this is not because the fan is not blowing over the engine? Please correct me if I am wrong. Thanks, Jan 'can't stop' Schokker. ------------------------------[ <- Message 52 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970916 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 16 Sep 1997 12:51:20 +0400 (EET DST) From: "Dr. Semih Bingol" <semih@leo.ee.hun.edu.tr> Subject: SER Performance Head Hello everybody, Sept. issue of LROI features an interesting article about a UK company named Automotive which manufactures unleaded and performance heads for 2.25 gas engines. I think a thread was about to start on this a few days ago but for some unknown reason I have not received anything for the last 3 days. I apologize if this topic has already been discussed. For those who have not read the article, the new head costs 300 UKP and features unleaded conversion plus head modification. Compression increased to 9:1 by shaving metal from the head. Dist, ignition, plugs, etc are retained. With the addition of a special intake manifold, an SU carb and a special exhaust/silencer, power gain of 15-18 hp and torque gain of 20 lb-ft claimed. My questions are : 1) What is a Powerplus SU carb? Who sources it? 2) If anybody on this list (possibly Brits) has tried this upgrade, I would like to hear his/her opinion on performance and, equally (or even more) important, mileage comparison. 3) In general, performance upgrades are known to shorten engine life. This one, on the other hand, looks like a relatively innocent trick to me. Any comments? Semih Bingoel 74SWB 2.25 petrol ------------------------------[ <- Message 53 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970916 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
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