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From: "Dennis 'Taz' van Turnhout" <taz@pi.net>
Subject: unsubscribe???
Date: Fri, 12 Sep 1997 13:09:04 +0200

Can some1 help unsubscribing?
I've tried doing true a webpage (3x), but still no luck... 

Thanx in advance,

Dennis van Turnhout - Taz@pi.net

*Taz is infected by Ski-fever and can't be held resposible his thoughts or actions...*

------------------------------

From: "Alain-Jean PARES" <InfoDyne@wanadoo.fr>
Subject: Re: unsubscribe???
Date: Fri, 12 Sep 1997 13:53:43 +0100

 >Can some1 help unsubscribing?
>I've tried doing true a webpage (3x), but still no luck... 

You're unlucky, I've been unsubscribed without doing anything
Alain-Jean PARES
88 Serie III D

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Sep 1997 07:59:45 -0500 (EST)
From: Nick Fankhauser <nickf@co.wayne.in.us>
Subject: Idling Problems, Engine pontification.

Hi all- thought I'd weigh in on two recent subjects-

The idling problem that Jeff is having sounds more like ignition to me. If
it gets past starting, the gas can't be too bad to idle. I would check the
points & condensor in that order. The symptoms match a problem that I had
recently with an old volvo. In that case, the screw that holds the points in
place had loosened, which made the points work just enough to fire at really
low speeds,  as they were "self adjusted" to the tightest clearance. At
moderate speed, they were either way too retarded, or just bouncing around.
At high speed, they seemed to work pretty well. I didn't find the problem
until I took the "back to square one" attitude, and started with a basic
tune-up.

Regarding our ongoing engine option opinions- I'm not a purist, but I'll be
sticking with the original engine on my IIa for practical reasons. I
honestly don't think there's an easier engine to work on or a more reliable
one. I'm having trouble understanding the "practical reasons" for switching.
It *is* different from a chevy engine, and it does take some getting used
to, but one happy weekend was all it took for me to make friends with the
2.25 litre. And once you grok the engine, it doesn't take long to understand
that the rest of the machine was built to work with that particular engine
in it. I'm certain that without major modifications you can quickly wreck
the rest of the drivetrain with a more powerful engine.

I also can't fathom wanting to go fast in a series rover. Even in tip-top
condition, an older rover doesn't have the appropriate design for speed.
Even if I keep things under control, there's always the chance that events
outside of the rover will cause a collision- and then I'll want neck rests,
a padded dashboard, shoulder harness, crush zone on all sides, etc... I have
an outrageous motorcycle for the days when I want to stare death in the
face. The rover is for most days- when the world is too interesting to go
fast or leave early.

And at moderate speed... the fuel economy isn't really all that bad...

-NickF

Nick Fankhauser           |Wayne County Information Systems Department
NickF@co.wayne.in.us      |     http://www.co.wayne.in.us/wayneco
http://www.infocom.com/~nickf

------------------------------

From: Hank_Lapa@signalcorp.com
Date: Fri, 12 Sep 1997 09:17:52 -0400
Subject: L-R Trivia Crossword Puzzle

For a bit of diversion, anyone who can print out a PowerPoint (7.0b) for
Windows 95 slide and is interested in receiving the trivia crossword puzzle
from my club's (R.O.V.E.R.S.) recent annual picnic, generously sponsored by
Rovers North (the picnic, not the puzzle), may contact me directly and I
will email it back as an attachment.  Club members should receive it in the
next issue of the Fairlead.

Regards,
Hank
(Visit the club website at http://calypso.math.udel.edu/rovers)

------------------------------

From: Chuque Henry <ChuqueH@isco.com>
Subject: D90 Corrosion
Date: Fri, 12 Sep 1997 09:02:47 -0500

I'm sure this subject has been hashed over before, but I was thinking of
getting a D90 and had heard they have a terminal illness.  No sense in
buying a vehicle that is self destructing I guess.  Is there any cure?
Has this been blown out of proportion?

-Q
"Where Did I Go Today?"
1970 Series IIa 88 Land Rover "Nanook"
1977 Series I Lotus Esprit (#118)
 

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Fri, 12 Sep 1997 10:10:44 -0400
Subject: Re: D90 Corrosion

Outside of the fact that they don't galvanize the top bits anymore, I can't
see it being any worse than a Range Rover of similar vintage - it runs on
the same doggone chassis as the Disco and "classic" RR.

Sounds like more yuppie"what do you mean i have to maintain it?" nonsense
to me.

          aj"Of course it rusts - it's British!"r

------------------------------

From: Chuque Henry <ChuqueH@isco.com>
Subject: RE: D90 Corrosion
Date: Fri, 12 Sep 1997 09:29:57 -0500

Does maintain mean replace all the body panels every year? With my cars
I'm used to maintenance, but this is the story I'm getting.  I'd rather
just do it once if you don't mind.  Is it cost prohibitive to galvanize
the rest?

-Q
"Where Did I Go Today?"
1970 Series IIa 88 Land Rover "Nanook"
1977 Series I Lotus Esprit (#118)
 

> ----------
> From:
> Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com[SMTP:Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com]
> Reply To: 	lro@playground.sun.com
> Sent: 	Friday, September 12, 1997 9:10 AM
> To: 	lro@playground.sun.com
> Subject: 	Re: D90 Corrosion
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 24 lines)]
> to me.
>           aj"Of course it rusts - it's British!"r

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Fri, 12 Sep 1997 10:53:54 -0400
Subject: RE: D90 Corrosion

Re: Replace all the body panels:

This is a new one - amusing, indeed, considering they're the same aluminum
structure that's on my 109.

I'd check your sources on that one...

               aj"Never heard of that!"
r

------------------------------

From: Lodelane@aol.com
Date: Fri, 12 Sep 1997 11:03:07 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Lens solutions?

We all talk about the 'Mericans and the English being seperated by a common
language.  Just about the same problem here, two versions of marker lights
seperated by Joe Lucas.

Granted, you can get the "normal" marker lenses in the UK for a pittance.
 However, in its extreme wisdom, the US DOT required larger lenses (and side
marker reflectors and lights) be added to the US version of the late IIA and
III vehicles.  These suckers are FOUR inches in diameter and flatter than the
"beehive" lenses.

They are now made of that famous, expensive British Isle mineral -
Unobtainium.

Only solution, if you don't mind not being "stock" in the US is to retro to
the smaller UK version.

Larry  Smith
Chester, VA

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Sep 1997 10:39:16 -0400
From: reynoldsg@tfn.com (Geoffrey Reynolds)
Subject: Boston Area get together

Sorry for the cross post, but I'd like to see some Series owners join 
us too.

Mark Talbot wrote:

>Just wanted to add my thanks for those that set this up, was good fun 
>meeting old friends over a drink.
>We should do this every month ! What do you lot think ?
>2nd Wednesday each month ?

Chris Browne wrote:

>I'd like to add my thanks to Jeff for pulling it off.
>I'm ready to make this a regular get together too. All votes in 
>favor of 10/8/97 say Aye!
>I be late as I'll be in Burlington VT until 5pm.... 

Glad to hear everyone had a good time.  As far as doing it every 
month, you can count me in.  October 8th should be fine for me.

Jeff
1995 Beluga Black Discovery
Rovers North Roof Rack
4 Hella Rallye 4000's
1 Hella Work Lamp

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Sep 1997 08:25:40 -0700 (PDT)
From: gpool@pacific.net (Granville Pool)
Subject: Re: Lens solutions?

Regarding four-inch indicator lamp lenses:

>They are now made of that famous, expensive British Isle mineral -
>Unobtainium.
>Only solution, if you don't mind not being "stock" in the US is to retro to
>the smaller UK version.

Actually, I can suggest a couple other--still Land Roverly--solutions:  D90
lamps.  I say a couple because the UK-type D90 lamps (small, about the same
as the smaller old-type lamps but less expensive) are available here.  I got
a couple of red ones from British Pacific for the taillamps on my Series III
as the even more unobtainium SIII taillamps had been replaced by a PO with
some old TLC lamps that stuck out the sides--Ugh!!!  These look appropriate
IMO and were easy to install (the right sort of pigtails on them).  You can
also get these in amber and white, as I recall.

The second Land-Roverly solution is the late-type, NAS D90 lamps which are
large round ones which must be close to four inches.  I am considering
eventually using these to replace my original four-inch lamps.  For now I
have enough spare lenses but these lamps are not very good quality and I
think I'll eventually want to replace them.

Cheers,

Granny

'73 SIII 88 (the Snark)
'60 SII 88 SW (the African)
Redwood Valley, CA, USA

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Sep 1997 12:02:49 +0000
From: Ian Harper/Donna-Claire McLeod <tantramar@golden.net>
Subject: Tank Cleaners

Does anyone know a good formula for cleaning out a gas tank (off the
vehicle).   My S1 tanks is quite smelly and oozing black gunge, so
before filling it up again, it's probably a good idea to clean it!!

Are there commercial cleaners available (our local supplier didn't know
of any) or is there a good home brew remedy that will do the trick?  ie
paint thinner........

As always $$$ is a priority!!!

Cheers, ian
-- 
Ian Harper/Donna Claire McLeod
http://www.golden.net/~tantramar
Tantramar House Bed and Breakfast
Stratford, Ontario
Phone(519) 273-7771  Fax (519) 273-3993

------------------------------

From: Hank_Lapa@signalcorp.com
Date: Fri, 12 Sep 1997 12:33:53 -0400
Subject: Series Paint Codes (DuPont)

Keith,

DuPont Code     Colour
38500                    (Deep) Bronze Green
38501                    Mid-Grey
38502                    Sand
38503                    Marine Blue
38504                    Pastel Green
38505                    Limestone
38506                    Poppy Red

Others,
Clip and save!

Regards,
Hank
1960 Long SW
1997 Short SW

------------------------------

From: Hank_Lapa@signalcorp.com
Date: Fri, 12 Sep 1997 12:50:31 -0400
Subject: Test Message -- Ignore

Whiskey Tango Foxtrot y'all.

Test...test...test.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Sep 97 11:58:30 PDT
From: Garrick Brett Olsen <gbolsen@allina.com>
Subject: buying advice

I crave a Land Rover,love the look of a IIa, love to tinker, 
and am saving up with a goal of $5,000.

QUESTIONS:
For driving in the snow, is LWB or SWB better?
Is it possible to take the top off of a LWB?
Are soft and hard tops interchangeable?
Where can I buy in the Midwest, near Minnesota?

Advice appreciated,

Roverless,

Garrick
-------------------------------------
Name: Garrick Brett Olsen
E-mail: Garrick Brett Olsen <gbolsen@allina.com>
Date: 9/12/97
Time: 11:58:30 AM

This message was sent by Chameleon 
-------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: DONOHUEPE@aol.com
Date: Fri, 12 Sep 1997 13:19:38 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Boston Area Get Together

On 11 Sep 1997 Geoffrey Reynolds wrote about the Boston Area Get Together:
"There were 11 of us (counting Chris Browne's son and 2 very patient wives).

What a lucky fellow!  Patience is a virtue seldom found in women, never
found in men.  And he has two?  Allah, in his wisdom, permits as many as
four wives.  Is this a new thing in Boston?

Salaam,

Paul Donohue
1965 Rattletrap 109

------------------------------

From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Subject: RE: buying advice
Date: Fri, 12 Sep 1997 10:20:53 -0700

I've only driven 88's (SWB) in the snow and found them to be a hoot!

You can take the top of a 109 (LWB) but rear passenger doors are one
peice so the windows cannot be separated. (at least on the models that I
have seen.)

Check the Heimmings Motor News, last time I looked there were a number
of Rovers for sale.

Paul Quin
1961 Series II 88
Almost running
Victoria, BC  Canada

>-----Original Message-----
>From:	Garrick Brett Olsen [SMTP:gbolsen@allina.com]
>Sent:	Friday, September 12, 1997 11:59 AM
>To:	lro@playground.sun.com
>Subject:	buying advice
>QUESTIONS:
>For driving in the snow, is LWB or SWB better?
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 14 lines)]
>Are soft and hard tops interchangeable?
>Where can I buy in the Midwest, near Minnesota?

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Sep 97 16:31:32    
From: Steve Mace <steve@solwise.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: D90 Corrosion /Rust Arrestor

On my 1993 model I don't have any rust problems on the chassis however I ha=
ve the usual problems with the body cappings: Every year I rub the welds do=
wn, rust proof with converter/primer and repaint but the paint always seems=
 to bubble up next summer!

However, more worrying I do have problems with bad corrosion on both front =
doors. The aluminium skin on both doors is corroded just under the window w=
here the steel inner frame touches the skin. I've tried having both doors W=
axoyled, rubbed down and resprayed but it was a waste of =A3150! 3 months l=
ater it was back. I've now accepted the fact that next year I shall have to=
 replace both doors with some good condition take-offs (anybody got a coupl=
e of doors to suite?). I shall then thoroughly rustprrof and waxoyl both do=
ors before the corrosion starts.

Still... I wouldn't trade the D90 for anything else (except maybe a new D90=
!).

1973 SIII LtWt
1993 D90

-------------------------------------
Name: Dr Steve Mace
E-mail: steve@solwise.demon.co.uk
www: http://www.demon.co.uk/solwise/
Tel: +44 1482 473899
Fax: +44 1482 472245
Date: 12/09/97
Time: 16:31:32
-------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Fri, 12 Sep 1997 14:44:45 -0400
Subject: Re: Tank Cleaners

Re: Tank cleaners:

Personally, I'd load the silly thing with a strong degreaser/cleaner and a
couple of handfuls of sharp sand and shake liberally.

Lather, rinse, repeat as necessary, then rinse with clear water to remove
spent cleaner and sand.

Whatever the degreaser doesn't get the sand should...

                    ajr

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Fri, 12 Sep 1997 14:46:20 -0400
Subject: Re: Boston Area Get Together

>>On 11 Sep 1997 Geoffrey Reynolds wrote about the Boston Area Get
Together:
>>"There were 11 of us (counting Chris Browne's son and 2 very patient
wives).
>What a lucky fellow!  Patience is a virtue seldom found in women, never
>found in men.  And he has two?  Allah, in his wisdom, permits as many as
>four wives.  Is this a new thing in Boston?
>Salaam,
>Paul Donohue
>1965 Rattletrap 109

No, we just don't brag about it...

aj"One's entirely enough trouble, thanks..."r

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Sep 1997 14:59:17 -0400
From: Dean Meyer <Dean.Meyer@internord.net>
Subject: Re: Tank Cleaners

Here's my ten senz,

Chuck a short piece of chain in the tank, lift it over your head and
shake the beejeezus out of it all the while shouting "Bring out your
dead, bring out your dead"!   :>)

Dean Meyer

1964 Morris Mini Minor Traveller "Wanna see my woody?" - (off to Stowe
to win more trophies...)
1966 Austin-Healey 3000 MK III "The moneypit from Vegas" - (might have
to live outside for a while...)
1967 Austin-Healey Sprite MK III "The big block" - (may make it to
Hershey this Spring...)
1974 Land Rover Series III 88" "Kinabalu" - (now on the operating
table...)

Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com wrote:

> Re: Tank cleaners:
> Personally, I'd load the silly thing with a strong degreaser/cleaner
> and a
> couple of handfuls of sharp sand and shake liberally.
> Lather, rinse, repeat as necessary, then rinse with clear water to
> remove

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 14 lines)]
> Whatever the degreaser doesn't get the sand should...
>                     ajr

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Sep 1997 08:58:44 -1000
From: Faye and Peter Ogilvie <ogilvi@hgea.org>
Subject: Re: carb. dirt

Aloha:

	I've gone through this with both my Rovers. For me it was a combination of
extremely fine sludge either from rust or long term exposure to local dirt,
large flakes of rust from the tank, and a clogged intake screen on the tank
fuel pickup. 
	The fine sludge would not go away despite dropping the tank and flushing
it  for hours with a water hose. Only solution I found was to put 2, that's
TWO, in line filters between the tank and the pump. They would alternately
clog up in a matter of days initiaally, with gradually extending periods of
time. Now I could probably take them out as I haven't changed them in
nearly a year. The sludge is fine enough to bypass the glass bowl filtre
and the inline filtre between the pump and carb but not too fine not to
clog the carb. It forced me to get too intimate with stripping the weber
until I bit the bullet and installed the filtres. Probably went through
6-10 filtres before the sludge was gone.
	My 1970 that sat for three years while I was rebuilding it gave me the
same problem when I got it back on the road. The filters were also required
but was not the whole solution. I pulled the fuel pickup probe from  the
tank and found the screen to be clogged by something green that I assume
was algae. In trying to clean the screen, I destroyed it, but the truck did
run normally for awhile before it went back to its old ways. 
	Couldn't, for the life of me, figure out what the problem was. Knew it was
fuel starvation but it was intermittant and could not duplicate the cause.
Finally pulled the probe with the engine running and found rust flakes
clogging the intake. They would fall away when the vacuum was removed which
was why it was intermittant and hard to find. A new probe with a clean
intact screen probably would have prevented the above.  The tank developed
a leak about this time so replacing the tank solved the problem in my case.
	Hope this helps.
Peter Ogilvie
1970 '88
1968 '109 pickup
1965 '88 pile of rust

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Sep 1997 12:35:11 -0700 (PDT)
From: "Paul Gussack" <pcg@tennis.org>
Subject: re:idling my time away

Jeff,
I had a similar situation after replacing a fuel pump.  I gradually lost power
and had problems starting. checked and cleaned all I could and tracked it
s=down to the inline fuel filter.  You did not mention this but I have one
after my fuel pump before the weber.  

If ya got one. Try a replacement. 

BTW If you could fax me a copy of the weber manual that would be great 

Paul Gussack SIII SWB "Grendal"
fax is 423-267-9344

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Sep 1997 12:55:37 -0700 (PDT)
From: "Paul Gussack" <pcg@tennis.org>
Subject: Re: idiling time away

Jeff,
I had a similar situation after replacing a fuel pump.  I gradually lost power
and had problems starting. checked and cleaned all I could and tracked it
s=down to the inline fuel filter.  You did not mention this but I have one
after my fuel pump before the weber.  

If ya got one. Try a replacement. 

BTW If you could fax me a copy of the weber manual that would be great 

Paul Gussack SIII SWB "Grendal"
fax is 423-267-9344

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Sep 1997 10:02:48 -1000
From: Faye and Peter Ogilvie <ogilvi@hgea.org>
Subject: Dirty carbs

Aloha:

	I've gone through this with both my Rovers. For me it was a combination of
extremely fine sludge either from rust or long term exposure to local dirt,
large flakes of rust from the tank, and a clogged intake screen on the tank
fuel pickup. 
	The fine sludge would not go away despite dropping the tank and flushing
it  for hours with a water hose. Only solution I found was to put 2, that's
TWO, in line filters between the tank and the pump. They would alternately
clog up in a matter of days initiaally, with gradually extending periods of
time. Now I could probably take them out as I haven't changed them in
nearly a year. The sludge is fine enough to bypass the glass bowl filtre
and the inline filtre between the pump and carb but not too fine not to
clog the carb. It forced me to get too intimate with stripping the weber
until I bit the bullet and installed the filtres. Probably went through
6-10 filtres before the sludge was gone.
	My 1970 that sat for three years while I was rebuilding it gave me the
same problem when I got it back on the road. The filters were also required
but was not the whole solution. I pulled the fuel pickup probe from  the
tank and found the screen to be clogged by something green that I assume
was algae. In trying to clean the screen, I destroyed it, but the truck did
run normally for awhile before it went back to its old ways. 
	Couldn't, for the life of me, figure out what the problem was. Knew it was
fuel starvation but it was intermittant and could not duplicate the cause.
Finally pulled the probe with the engine running and found rust flakes
clogging the intake. They would fall away when the vacuum was removed which
was why it was intermittant and hard to find. A new probe with a clean
intact screen probably would have prevented the above.  The tank developed
a leak about this time so replacing the tank solved the problem in my case.
	Hope this helps.
Peter Ogilvie
1970 '88
1968 '109 pickup
1965 '88 pile of rust

------------------------------

From: Mcd0123@aol.com
Date: Fri, 12 Sep 1997 17:30:43 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: subscribe

subscribe mcd0123@aol.com

------------------------------

From: Solihull@aol.com
Date: Fri, 12 Sep 1997 18:59:56 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Tank Cleaners

All this activity with chains and degreasers and stuff, may well bring out
the scale and ooze, but it may also turn a dormant pinhole into an active
gusher. Of course, if it needs to be, it needs to be. I use several sizes of
chains and a couple pounds of nuts&bolts from my sheetrock mud bucket o'
spare hardware.  Its easier on your arms to suspend the whole mess from some
kind of framework with bungees, then you can have a much more pleasurable
tank agitation experience.
Cheers!!
John Dillingham
near Canton, GA
KF4NAS     LROA #1095
73 s3 swb 25902676b DD "Pansy"
72 s3 swb 25900502a rusted, in suspended animation
Looking for a P5 project, well, OK, or a P6 or another SD1
Vintage Rover Service, since 1994, where we say:
Land Rovers for Agriculture!
Land Rovers for Industry!
Land Rovers for Recreation!
Land Rovers forever!! D.V.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Sep 1997 19:34:11 -0400
From: Jeff Goldman <roverboy@gis.net>
Subject: Lightweight sighting in MA...

	Excuse the interruption, but does anyone on the list own a Lightweight in
the Newton/Needham/Waltham area of Massachusetts? I've been seeing one off
and on throughout the summer, and they're terribly rare around here.

Jeff

Boston, MA
1971 88" Series IIA Land Rover
1990 Range Rover County (ask about parts)
1990 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
1991 Range Rover Hunter 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Sep 97 23:53:11 UT
From: "Charles Cooper" <Landy88@classic.msn.com>
Subject: Land Rover Owners in NJ, NYC Area

	I am considering starting an informal Land Rover Owners group for the 
Princeton, NJ area.  As this is within driving distance (even in a Series) of 
NYC, Philadelphia, etc., these areas are invited...urged...to respond.
	I am the owner of a couple of Series Rovers and am looking for some people in 
this area to Rover about with.  I am a member of the BSROA, and miss the 
events from there (I just relocated to the NJ area).
	If anyone is interested in an impromptu sort of club, PLEASE let me know.  I 
am thinking of a group web page or newsletter.  There are two dealerships with 
a half hour of my home, so I know there are plenty of owners.
	So let me know.  You can respond to the Digest, but I would suggest that you 
e-mail me directly at LANDY88@MSN.COM.
	I look forward to hearing from you.

------------------------------

From: QROVER80@aol.com
Date: Fri, 12 Sep 1997 20:29:02 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: parabolic springs/ ? 

A couple of important questions. Where did you get the springs? Are these the
Dutch ones or the Santana? And most important, I am almost afraid to ask, how
much are they?
Rgds Quintin Aspin

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Sep 97 00:36:06 UT
From: "Charles Cooper" <Landy88@classic.msn.com>

	I am considering starting an informal Land Rover Owners group for the 
Princeton, NJ area.  As this is within driving distance (even in a Series) of 
NYC, Philadelphia, etc., these areas are invited...urged...to respond.
	I am the owner of a couple of Series Rovers and am looking for some people in 
this area to Rover about with.  I am a member of the BSROA, and miss the 
events from there (I just relocated to the NJ area).
	If anyone is interested in an impromptu sort of club, PLEASE let me know.  I 
am thinking of a group web page or newsletter.  There are two dealerships with 
a half hour of my home, so I know there are plenty of owners.
	So let me know.  You can respond to the Digest, but I would suggest that you 
e-mail me directly at LANDY88@MSN.COM.
	I look forward to hearing from you.

------------------------------

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