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From: "Andy Woodward" <azw@aber.ac.uk>
Date: Tue, 9 Sep 1997 12:29:41 +0000
Subject: Quanity of Waxoyl required?

First time round, I'd inject prettty much a whole 5litre can into the 
chassis box sections. Then, say another 1/2 of a can fro the outside 
of the chassis. So get 2 5 litre cans, leaving you with half a can 
left for next year's touch up. The first time is the worst - after 
that, I'd get one 5 litre can every 5 years and reinject the boxes, 
and just touch up any rusty bits on the outide of the chassis every 
autumn.

And keep some cut very thin with deisel in a plant sprayer in the 
truck and every time you do anything to the truck (even to checkin 
teh tyre pressures, squirt any rust you see.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Sep 1997 7:45:06 -0400
From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Subject: Re: 3 liter swop

OK, wiseguy, YOU fit one in.

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon,
'81 Honda Goldwing 1100 Standard:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

------------------------------

From: "Rob Symons" <safari@iafrica.com>
Subject: Oil Pressure
Date: Tue, 9 Sep 1997 14:00:04 +0200

Hi All,
I have a dilemma. I have just had a 2.25 motor rebuilt for my 109.
Everything has been done. It has been fitted with a oil cooler and spin on
oil filter from a 2.5 Turbo Diesel. The cooler works on a thermostat and
appears to be a direct feed. I am running SAE 40 oil. The oil pressure is
very high on start up going over 100psi. When warm at 2000rpm it reaches
40psi, but a little later it runs at 30psi. Sometimes at idle it almost
reaches zero but if the motor is turned off and then immediately started
again the idle pressure almost reaches 30psi.
I don't know if the oil cooler might be to blame or if the pump is faulty.
The pump is new. 

I would be grateful for any advice as I am always having bad luck with oil
pressure.

Cheers,
Rob Symons
safari@iafrica.com
42 Old Fort Road
Durban, 4001
KwaZulu-Natal
South Africa
Tel.  +27 (0) 31 3681533
Fax. +27 (0) 31 3681074
Cell. +27 082 495 6249

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Tue, 9 Sep 1997 08:04:28 -0400
Subject: Re: Oil Pressure

Re: Oil pressure:

Sounds like a bad pressure relief spring - I'd swap the old pump back in
just to see what it does.....

                              ajr

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 09 Sep 1997 14:02:58 +0200
From: Bernd Jonas <Bernd.Jonas@munich.netsurf.de>
Subject: searching for gearbox + 88 SIII ´72 for sale

Hi there!
Is anybody out there in south germany who´s got an old gearbox for LR88
SIII ´72? 
After really too much hours of reparing my old one, now i think it´s
time for a new one.
By the way:
F O R  S A L E :

My 2. LR88 SIII ´72 is for sale now.
Any Interests?

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Sep 1997 08:19:16 -0400
From: reynoldsg@tfn.com (Geoffrey Reynolds)
Subject: (Reminder) Boston Area Get Together

When: Wednesday, September 10th

Time: 7:30PM

If anyone wants to get together earlier, let me know and I'll be sure 
to be there (as early as 5PM).

Where: John Harvard's Brew House in Framingham

This restaurant received the most votes by far, so that's where we'll 
meet.

Directions (courtesy of Chris Browne):
     
>From 128 north or south:

Take the Mass pike west to exit 13 (about 6 miles) labeled "Natick 
Framingham Rt 30".  Toll is 30 cents.
     
After toll booth go right on rt 30 towards Framingham.  Through first 
light (landmark is a N!55@N dealer).  At next light (I'm pretty sure 
about this) turn left and JHBH is on the right.  REI is on the left.
     
For a new building its hidden behind some trees and not well marked or 
lit.  Parking all around the building both on Rt 30 and the Framingham 
Mall.
     
>From Route 9:

Framingham Mall backs on to Route 9 East, you just have to drive 
through the mall (Barnes & Noble, Bob Stores, We've just beaten the 
wiz (they closed down) etc to get to JHBH.

Please let me know if you'll be attending so I can try to make 
reservations for us at the restaurant.  If you want to go but won't 
know for sure till the last minute, let me know and I'll try to 
reserve some extra seats.

I can be reached through email at reynoldsg@tfn.com or by phone at:

(617) 856-1395 Work (8AM-4PM M-F)
(508) 663-0747 Home (till 10PM)

Jeff Reynolds
1995 Beluga Black Discovery
Rovers North Roof Rack
4 Hella Rallye 4000's
1 Hella Work Lamp

------------------------------

From: Easton Trevor <Trevor_Easton@dofasco.ca>
Subject: Revolting Problems and British Car Day
Date: Tue, 9 Sep 1997 08:18:00 -0400

Sandy, what is the voltage at the solenoid when you try to draw current?
Often the problem is
with the battery connections. They will carry volts when there is no
load but won't transmit any
current. As soon as the solenoid is energised the volt drop is
sufficient to prevent it making
contact and it just clicks, or it makes contact and then the volt drop
under the load of the starter
is so high that it drops out again. Even with good contact throughout,
the battery voltage under
the starter load can drop as low as 9 volts. Did you disconnect any of
the ground leads when
changing the steering box? I would go round and verify all the
connections and grounding. Also
connect a voltmeter to the battery, switch, solenoid and starter in turn
when trying to start. This
will indicate where the greatest volt drops are occuring.

Those of you in the Ontario, NY,PA,OH,MI area. Don't forget the Toronto
Triumph Club, British Car Day, Sunday 21st September, featuring Land
Rover this year at Bronte Creek, Provincial Park, Oakville, Ontario.
TARC has a free buffet breakfast (10 til noon) sponsored by Land Rover
Canada for anyone arriving by Land Rover(Max 3 per vehicle). At 12.30pm
we will be auctioning a Land Rover SII 88. Bring your checkbook.
Delivery can be arranged.

 

------------------------------

From: "Huub Pennings" <pennings@kfih.azr.nl>
Date: Tue, 9 Sep 1997 14:39:17 +0100
Subject:       Re: searching for gearbox + 88 SIII |72 for sale

>My 2. LR88 SIII  72 is for sale now.
>Any Interests?

Prize, type and condition???? 

Surplus gearbox is aprox 1100 Dm in Holland.
Regards,

Huub Pennings

e-mail adress
Pennings@kfih.azr.nl

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 09 Sep 1997 06:40:15 -0700
From: "Christopher H. Dow" <dow@thelen.org>
Subject: Re: New Land Rover 98

David Cockey wrote:
8<
> I'm not aware of any new legislation in the US which outlaws rear side
> facing seats directly. Side impact standards may be more difficult to
> meet with side facing seats. Does anyone have more specific information?

One of the seat companies that advertise in LRO uses text fro a new U.K.
law regarding children in side-facing seats on school outings to sell
forwared-facing rear seats for 110s.

> My guess is that LR has found customers prefer a conventional third
> seat. I don't think the jump seats have ever been popular in the US.

Most of the Discos around here (SF Bay area) have them.  I'd be 99% of
mom-mobile Discos have them (and I'd be 80% of US Discos are
mom-mobiles--that's what ours is :-).   A lot of the Disco owners I've
talked to bought theirs becuase it seats almost as many people as a
minivan, but it's 'cool' (and $10K less than a Land Cruiser).  That
certainly was a factor in our purchase.

C
'65 IIA 88" SW
'96 Disco SD (with jumpseats)
[This message may contain projection]

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 09 Sep 1997 10:13:37 -0400
From: Chris Stevens <chris_stevens@sba.com>
Subject: Series IIa--Reverse Stop Spring/Reverse lights

After welding on a new fuel tank outrigger over the weekend, I decided
to remove the rest of the flooring to check out the frame and
transmission. While in there I also wanted to check the reverse lamp
switch on the gear selector. Turns out one of the springs is broken on
the reverse stop; and the switch seems to be intact. Question #1: Can I
find a replacement spring at a local hardware store? Question #2: Has
anyone tinkered with this reverse light switch? Any suggestions? My
wiring diagrams make no mention of it.

Chris Stevens
1969 Series IIa  88" SW
Towson, Maryland USA

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 09 Sep 1997 05:54:30 -0600
From: "J.M. Reinan" <jreinan@lawyernet.com>
Subject: Engine Conversions?

I realize that this topic has been beaten to death, but I'm still a bit
confused as to the best route to take in converting my old 2.25L (in a
'64 88") to something that will actually get me into the mountains.  I
know that there are those who would crucify me for suggesting that I
dispense with the original lump that came with the vehicle.  To such
persons, I would suggest that unless they live in or travel in the Rocky
Mountains frequently, they are not permitted to cast stones.

Now, then, I am seeking your kind guidance as to the best remedy for my
situation.  Do I go with a 3.5L Rover?  If so, what damage will be done
to the firewall; can I use my existing tranny/transfer and
flywheel/clutch; and do I have to move the radiator?

Or, quite simply, is there a better alternative which would be simpler
(read: few, if any structural or mechanical modifications) yet give me
horsepower somewhere in the three digit range?

Your kind assistance and unbridled wisdom will be greatly valued.

Jay Reinan
'64 Series IIA 88"
'91 Jag XJS conv  (I like to be punished)
'61 Willys Utility Wagon
'62 Willys Pickup (my neighbors value this one most)

------------------------------

From: Michael R Fredette <mfredett@ptdcs2.intel.com>
Subject: Re: Plastic fuel tanks
Date: Tue, 9 Sep 1997 09:25:41 -0700 (PDT)

Every time i embark on renovating a SIII fuel tank, I can't help
wondering if anyone is making an aftermarket PLASTIC tank for the SIII's
- today all agricultural vehicles seem to have these and they seem very
hard and durable
[yadda,yadda,yadda....]
So why not tanks - every other manufacturer seems to be going this
route?

 My '88 VW Golf has had a plastic fuel tank since new, no rust, no leaks,
 no farm use. I would guess that the reason for these being unavailable for
 Land-Rovers is 1) tooling costs run in the tens of thousands of dollars for
 a mold this size. How many would have to be sold to make the investment
 worthwhile?
 2) Land-Rover drivers don't baby their vehicles, and it is tough to attach a
 skid plate to an ABS fuel tank. The consequences of a catastrophic fuel leak
 from a split tank are too much of a risk for most manufacturers to accept.
 If the tank were in a more protected area, the idea might work. 
               Just another opinion,     
                                                 Ruthrfrd@borg.com
 
Uh, like I said before, my D90 HAS a plastic fuel tank, with a skid plate.In fact
the skid plate assy is what holds up the tank. Don't know when LR went to plastic
on the D90's have em now. It's not ABS plastic either, it's black polyethylene,
which is some seriously tough plastic and able to withstand some really wild deformations
without rupture. That and the fact that it's now mounted between the rear frame rails 
instead of under the seats, should provide plenty of protection in collision/severe
off-roading situations.

Rgds
Mike Fredette
D90
101fc

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 09 Sep 1997 10:05:20 -0700
From: Bill Caloccia <wpc@caloccia.net>
Subject: SII engine paint colors

Hi John,
    There is a similar green that is used for Pontiac engines, and that
might save you having your own engine paint mixed.

    Though, that said, while visiting the Shrine of the Galvanized Land
Rover in Ottawa this past May, we did have a discussion that flat black
would be the better colour for painting the engine block and compartment
for more efficient thermal transfer.  (That
said, those in warmer climes may want a white coloured scuttle, to keep
the cabin a wee bit cooler.)

    Cheers,
          Bill Caloccia                 wpc@Caloccia.Net
         http://www.Caloccia.Net/wpc/
                                  R
       http://www.Land-Rover.Team.Net/
   R  1  3  2wd  H OD             D
   +--|--|   o   | |           L  3     Land Rovers First
      2  4  4wd  L N           |  2         because
   '63 SII  RHD 88"            H  1     Land Rovers Last
      793-PTA            '90 RR County

PS. This week I am visiting the land of the lists, which is to
say that I am actually in San Francisco though the 14th.

Phone numbers through the 12th are:
    Day: 415 836 7438
    Hotel: 415 896 1600, rm 3047
If I'm not at either one, or on the weekend, you can reach me
at 800 Page MCI, pin no 1727326

------------------------------

From: Michael R Fredette <mfredett@ptdcs2.intel.com>
Subject: dunsfold museum
Date: Tue, 9 Sep 1997 10:28:11 -0700 (PDT)

Hi all,

    I need an address and phone # for the Dunsfold Land Rover Museum
    and Trust over in the UK. Anybody over there have that info handy?
    Thanks

    Mike Fredette
    Portland Oregon
    101FC

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 09 Sep 1997 18:47:31 -0700
From: Frans Diepstraten <frd@wirehub.nl>
Subject: LHD conv. Thanks!

Hi there,

Thanks for all the response on my question about the conversion of RHD to 
LHD. I actually drove through Scotland last week (no, not in a LR but in 
a hired Proton (never heard of before last week) with a full 15 cm/7" 
ground clearance. Try getting across a forest road in that! (we did, but 
I'm not sure about the condition of the bottom).

Any way, those Scots seem to be well off, 'cause most 4WD I saw were 
Defenders or Discoveries. The only oldies I saw on the way back from 
Brussels Airport, in the tunnel just before Antwerp (last Sunday 
evening, Dutch license plates): A nice SII (a?) followed by a SIII, 
probably returning from a weekend of fun in the Belgium mud (anybody you 
know?).

I'm waiting for Tony Blair to get the UK into a major crisis. The 
resultant drop of the pound will open up this market widely!

Frans

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Sep 1997 16:59:35 -0400 (EDT)
From: "William L. Leacock" <wleacock@pipeline.com>
Subject: Dist pump drive gear

Fitting the dist pump drive gear is relatively easy, needs a bit of thought
and patience.
  Look in the manual for the position that it should fnish up in, then note
that as it is fitted the drive turns because of the helical gear.
 Set the crankshaft  in the appropraite position, then fit the gear, note
the amount of rotation, lift it out, rotate it in the apprpriate direction
by the angle it was out of position and re insert. It may be necessary to
try this operation once or twice. When inserting line up the hole in the
brass bearing with the hole in block before inserting. .
 I  used a screwdriver with a hooked end to raise and lower the gear  to
line up the holes.
 To line up the screw hole in the center of the oil  filter flange, use sa
small screwdriver to rotate the brass bush so the holes line up.
 I have done this operation dozens of times during rebuilds and  with the
engine in situ, however it is over three years since I owned a diesel so do
not have the info in front oif me to be more precise about the angle and
direction of rotation.
Bill Leacock	Limey in exile
89 RR; 67 - 109 and  early 88.

------------------------------

From: Bryn Hackland <bryn@hackland.demon.co.uk>
Subject: RE: dunsfold museum
Date: Tue, 9 Sep 1997 19:20:49 -0000

Dunsfold Landrovers Ltd
Alfold Rd
Dunsfold
Godalming
Surrey
GU8 4NP 

Tel: 01483 200567

I think this is what you need

Bryn Hackland

-----Original Message-----
From:	Michael R Fredette [SMTP:mfredett@ptdcs2.intel.com]
Sent:	09 September 1997 17:28
To:	lro@playground.sun.com
Subject:	dunsfold museum

Hi all,

    I need an address and phone # for the Dunsfold Land Rover Museum
    and Trust over in the UK. Anybody over there have that info handy?
    Thanks

    Mike Fredette
    Portland Oregon
    101FC

------------------------------

From: Michael R Fredette <mfredett@ptdcs2.intel.com>
Subject: Re: dunsfold museum
Date: Tue, 9 Sep 1997 14:31:32 -0700 (PDT)

 Dunsfold Landrovers Ltd
 Alfold Rd
 Dunsfold
 Godalming
 Surrey
 GU8 4NP 
 
 Tel: 01483 200567
 
 I think this is what you need
 
 Bryn Hackland
 
 Hi all,
 
     I need an address and phone # for the Dunsfold Land Rover Museum
     and Trust over in the UK. Anybody over there have that info handy?
     Thanks
 
     Mike Fredette
     Portland Oregon
     101FC
 
********************************************
Thanks a ton Bryn! That's what I needed.

Mike

------------------------------

From: Sanna@aol.com
Date: Tue, 9 Sep 1997 17:44:41 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re:  Newsletter

Message received.  Thanks

Anthony R. Sanna
SACO Foods, Inc.
6120 University Avenue
Middleton, Wisconsin  53562  USA

1-800-373-7226
(608) 238-9101

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Sep 1997 00:32:16 +0200
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Subject: Re: Dist pump drive gear
[digester: Removing section of:  Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="------------1AB48A4D564DE4285460905A" ]

Thanks to Bill leacock for his explanation on this one - but bill - you
don't mention how you line up the oil pump shaft at the same time
(without removing sump/pump/shaft) - that's the bit which is bugging me?

Adrian Redmond

---------------------------------------------------
CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
---------------------------------------------------
telephone (office)		    +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)		    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data                +45 86 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)		    +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)                  +45 40 54 22 66
mobile NMT			    +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail			     channel6@post2.tele.dk
HoTMaiL (www.e-mail)	channel6denmark@hotmail.com
---------------------------------------------------
--------------1AB48A4D564DE4285460905A

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 09 Sep 1997 18:29:32 -0400
From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com>
Subject: Re: SII engine paint colors

Bill Caloccia wrote:

>     There is a similar green that is used for Pontiac engines, and
> that
> might save you having your own engine paint mixed.

Underneath the grease where not rusted, one of our '60 SII engine is
painted a light to medium gray with a hint of green. (Don't know what
the other is) I don't believe the engine has been previously disturbed,
so I think this is the original paint.

Another engine compartment color question: The air cleaner on our other
'60 SII is silver hammerite, and again it is appears to be original.
Anyone else seen this?

>     Though, that said, while visiting the Shrine of the Galvanized
> Land
> Rover in Ottawa this past May, we did have a discussion that flat
> black
> would be the better colour for painting the engine block and
> compartment
> for more efficient thermal transfer.  (That
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 10 lines)]
> keep
> the cabin a wee bit cooler.)

Black paint actually won't make a detectable difference in transfer of
heat from the block.

Regards,
David Cockey

------------------------------

From: Wmohara@aol.com
Date: Tue, 9 Sep 1997 19:18:34 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: mt mansfield heater for sale ......$250.00

hello fellow roverites ..i recently bought a heater for my 1960 series two 88
and i found out that its a bit bigger than i thought it was and it wont fit
under the fender so .......i found another way with a stock series three
araingment . i would like to sell the mt mansfeild heater for $250.00 and
i'll even ship all the parts to you. i can be reached a number of ways the
convential method ......11 austin place ,, Glen Rock ,New Jersey 07452
......201 444 9672  or by email at wmohara @aol.com . thank
you............bill O'Hara

------------------------------

From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Subject: RE: lla paint colors...
Date: Tue, 9 Sep 1997 16:27:46 -0700

FWIW, whats left of the paint on my '61 Series II 88's engine is
definitely red.  Guess I should call it my Testarossa (Italian for read
head)   :-)

Paul.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 09 Sep 1997 21:25:06
From: James Wolf <J.Wolf@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Disco. Sale

This is for the list folks living in the Mid-Atlantic area. The Enterprise
car rental, sales office on Military Hwy in Chesapeake, VA. Has a 1996
Disco. SD with auto, etc with 29,000 miles on the clock for $24,700.00 and
will take trades also they have a 100,000 mile extended warranty avalible
it's their own warranty not GE etc. Is this a good deal?
The usual disclaimers, I haven't even rented a car from them 8^).

Jim Wolf

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Sep 1997 01:31:40 -0400
From: Jeff Goldman <roverboy@gis.net>
Subject: Anyone have these 109" parts?

Greetings... After securing a salvage 1990 Range Rover County for parts,
I'm looking for a 109" backbody and roof from a three door Series truck.
They will be used in a 100" hybrid project, so must be of the full bed
type. Anyone have anything?

	Also, could someone relay Mike Buonaducci's (sic?) number in VT?

	Thanks much...

Jeff 

Boston, MA
1971 88" Series IIA Land Rover
1990 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
1991 Range Rover Hunter 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Sep 1997 23:15:44 +0100
From: paarch@jps.net (Paul Archibald)
Subject: The Rover is on the fast track back!!

Today I walked out to my Ducati after work to find that it had been
canabalized. Some @#*&$#@ had stolen the custom stainless exhaust. I filled
out an incident report with security/will talk to the police/insurance in
the morning.
        The Conclusion that I have come to is that the Duck is an exotic
toy that just can't be left out in the open(or office garages with security
cameras for that matter) with common thieves around. No-one has ever messed
with the old 88" no matter where I have parked it.
The restoration of the 88" is giong to be accelerated(mechanicly at least)
to be completed in a couple of months instead of by next summer. I have
decided to make the beast into a reliable, highway-speed able vehicle that
can safely cart me back and forth to work, the girls to & from school,
and...
****I can finally have it working good enough to start going on some of the
trips.   Yeah!!****
I need some advice regarding just what I should do to make it fit my
parameters, besides getting a Scotty's adapter and fitting it with the
chevy (unless someone can change my mind on that) The old two-litre lump
just doesn't get up to speed.
Does anyone have a Scotty's adaptor for sale???
What about a ser III brake tower assy for dual brakes?
Complete 109 front brake system?
what else?....
Paul

Note new e-address
***Paarch@jps.net***
(510)353-1320
'58 Series II 88" 2-litre underpowered beast "Surely"
'92 Ducati 750ss "Rubber Ducky" 

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 1997 06:41:57 -0400
Subject: Re: The Rover is on the fast track back!!

First off, if you need to swap motors because your present lump is hosed
that's OK - but why not look at a Rover engine?

The 2.25 is, bar none, one of the ruggedest, simplest, easiest-to-maintain
engines around. Chevy engines may provide more power, but how many of those
will still run and haul you down the highway with only 90 PSI compression
per cylinder and 20-30 years wear? (not MY engine - but one I know of...)

With little modification to the vehicle it should drop in to the space
vacated by the 2-liter lump, hook up and keep the old boy reasonably
original. This way, you can also use original exhaust parts and the like,
so you don't end up with some non-maintainable bodge that needs 10 parts
books to source spares.

It has the power to do the highway runs, too, believe me. I drive my 109
2-door back and forth from Chelmsford to Cambridge (MA) (about 65 Mi.
Round-trip) every day, rain, shine, year round on busy highways with no
problems. With overdrive, I easily attain and maintain a 65-70 MPH cruise
speed and can hold it all day, and hold a conversation in the cab or listen
to the stereo.

All this at 18-19 MPG - which is considerably better than most if not all
of the Japanese SUVs on the market today.....

If you want more of the gory details of daily life with a Rover, email me
and we can take it off-line.

                         Al Richer

------------------------------

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