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Date: Wed, 3 Sep 1997 07:41:18 -0400 (EDT)
From: pscales@blvl.igs.net (P.S.)
Subject: Re: conversion to FORD 302

>	 [ truncated by lro-lite (was 8 lines)]
>> >cylinders are installed in the UK but are the 305 also?
>> A fellow in Portland, Oregon did this, in a Series I 86" no less!

        I have a Ford 302 in my Triumph TR-7, and it's a good fit.  Plenty
of power, good for overtaking.  Even the headers fit (with some hammering).
Looking at its overall fit and at the size of the engine bay on my Series
II, there is LOTS of room for monster engines in the Landy!

Peter
Trenton, Ontario

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 3 Sep 1997 22:10:22 +0930
From: Brian Price <bprice@senet.com.au>
Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

At 03:58 03-09-97 -0700, you wrote:
>Land-Rover-Owner List &  Land Rover Owner Daily Digest List
>        are proudly sponsored by the
>        Empire Rover Owners Society
>                "Serving the Great State of New York, the Empire State,
>                     and former British Colonials, everywhere !"
>Tired of Too Much E-mail ?  -- Go Wired !  read this digest daily at

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 22 lines)]
>=09
>Tell your friends SUBSCRIBE send a message=
 to:	MajorDomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net
>with the text:					subscribe lro-digest
>Majordomo can also respond to other commands, send text:	help
>	  Contents:
>			Message Digest Contents
> msg Sender                             Lines Subject
>Tired of Too Much E-mail ?  -- Go Wired !  read this digest daily at

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 18 lines)]
>   8  "Adamson, John G" <adamsojg@jmu.e   15 3.5 or 3.9 Rover Engine Wanted
>   9  extractor@impactmarketing.com       60 Never Pay for Advertising=
 Again.
>  10  reynoldsg@tfn.com (Geoffrey Reyno   53 (Reminder) Boston Area Get
Together
>  11  WJMcD@aol.com                       23 Quieter now...
>  12  AKBLACKLEY@aol.com                  17 Web pages
>  13  Michael R Fredette <mfredett@ptdc   40 Re: conversion to FORD 305
>  14  Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>       25 RE: conversion to Left Hand=
 Drive
>  15  Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>       36 RE: Series Rovers in=
 California
>  16  jimallen@onlinecol.com (Jim Allen   64 Re: 3.5 or 3.9 Rover Engine=
 Wanted
>  17  QROVER80@aol.com                    16 Re: Noises...
>  18  Chris Stevens <chris_stevens@sba.   18 Gas Tank Repairing--88" Series=
 IIa
>  19  "LT J Jackson" <lt_j_jackson@unix   27 Tune up help needed
>  20  "Brian Cotton, +27 (0)83 290 2085   13 50th Anniversary tour update
>  21  kelliott@intranet.ca (Keith Ellio   25 Re: Tune up help needed
>  22  "William L. Leacock" <wleacock@pi   19 V8 starting
>  23  robot1@juno.com                     28 List is back!
>  24  David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com>      17 Remove
>  25  "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>     13 Re: Tune up help needed
>  26  Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com     23 Re: Tune up help needed
>  27  Dixon Kenner <dkenner@nrn1.NRCan.   19 Rally in Nova Scotia, Canada=

>  28  "Tom Dixon" <tomd@clear.net.nz>     11 Yorkshire club
>  29  "M. Tompkins" <mmglass@ix.netcom.   33 Rusting Gas Tank
>  30  David Kurzman <kurzman@ix.netcom.   22 Re: Rusting Gas Tank
>  31  rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Gric  100 Mid-Atlantic Land Rover Rally
>  32  BarrieWyLR@aol.com                  13 Re: Axle Seals help......
>  33  Dixon Kenner <dkenner@nrn1.NRCan.   32 Re: Mid-Atlantic Land Rover
Rally (fwd)
>  34  Greg Moore <gmoore@island.net>      17 Re: Rusting Gas Tank
>  35  "T. F. Mills" <tomills@odin.cair.   17 (Fwd)  Song Identity
>  36  Paul Nash <paul@frcs.alt.za>        29 GPS recommendations
>  37  Jan Schokker <janjan@xs4all.nl>     27 Cuban recipe for brakefluid
>  38  lorettafitz@webtv.net (Loretta Fi   12 Land Rover. 
>  39  Jan Engborg <engborg@huslak-sandv   13 New Land Rover 98
>  40  Terje Krogdahl <tekr@nextel.no>     34 Re: GPS recommendations
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 26 lines)]
>Subject: Back on the road
>Good to see that the digest is up and running, and just in time to herald=
 the
>rebirth of my
>SIII:
>Name:  Gertie (after Galloping Gertie, the old Tacoma Narrows bridge)
>Weight:  You wouldn't want it to fall on you.
>Length:  88"
>Ethnicity:  Marine Blue
>Parent:  Me, in labor for 4 grueling months.
>Notable Characteristics:  New Galv Marsland frame, new bulkhead, brake=
>  42  "Tom Dixon" <tomd@clear.net.nz>     14 Series 3 power steer
 pipes,
>wheel cylinders, shocks, springs, paint, rear main seal, engine and trans.
>mounts, weatherstripping, window tracks, wiring, a cool SIIA grille and
>radiator panel (4 headlights, the center lights are high-beam only) and=
 about
>200 bucks worth of new fasteners.
>This was a godawful project, but I'm glad that I did it.  And I'm really=
>radiator panel (4 headlights, the center lights are high-beam only) and=
 glad
>that it's over, as are my wife and our neighbors (even though it's never
>really over, as you all know too well). 
>If anyone is considering a similar project, have faith and venture forth. =
>Weight:  You wouldn't want it to fall on you.
 If
>a mechanical Luddite like me can do a frameover and paint job in a one car
>garage, anyone can.   
>Jeff Jackson
>Waterford, CT
>73 SIII 88" (Gertie)
>------------------------------
>Parent:  Me, in labor for 4 grueling months.
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 17 lines)]
>>bolting a couple of hefty eye-bolts thro' the front of the front bumper,
>>but have heard some horror stories about the bumper being torn off -=
 anyone
>>got any experience???
>You can't go far wrong with the D-rings that bolt on top of the bumper.
>Each ring uses the two existing bumper mounting bolts, and two further
>bolts fixing the leading edge of the D-ring. You might have to drill these
>latter holes. When fitted correctly, they are very strong, and transmit the
>strain of towing directly to the chassis. A short rope or chain two legged
>bridle (2m) between the  rings splits the strain equally between the two
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 63 lines)]
>> 73 SIII 88" (Gertie)
>  Congrats,  on the bouncing blue baby.  I would send you a cigar, BUT as=
 you
>know it's not safe to smoke around all those leaking fluids.
>Mike
>------------------------------
>From: WJMcD@aol.com
>Date: Tue, 2 Sep 1997 09:56:58 -0400 (EDT)
>Subject: Noises...
>bridle (2m) between the  rings splits the strain equally between the two
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 15 lines)]
>rpms, especially just after I lay-off the accelerator.
>I know I need to adjust the tappets, but this seems louder than that. I=
 keep
>having reoccuring nightmares of another endcap coming loose from a rod. For
>those who don't remember... this is a Euro 2.6. It has about 70K and has=
 not
>been rebuilt.
>Any ideas?
>Bill McDonald
>------------------------------
>From: "Adamson, John G" <adamsojg@jmu.edu>
>Subject: Noises...
>bridle (2m) between the  rings splits the strain equally between the two
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 48 lines)]
>Once you own the software, you can build your very own Highly Targeted
>Mailing List, then send your ad out to your targeted mailing list at the=
 push
>of a button.
>"You may never have to pay for other forms of advertising again!"
>"HotWired" Magazine says, "Extractor Pro simplifies the process of
>gathering and managing email addresses from AOL, Usenet, mailing
>lists, and other public sources."  Feb. 11, 1997
>Extractor PRO is loaded with targeting power, high-speed, a
>bridle (2m) between the  rings splits the strain equally between the two
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 97 lines)]
>Subject: Quieter now...
>Okay. Three and a half quarts of oil later...it's quiet. S--t! Where does=
 the
>oil go? (I know Dave B., in my driveway). Seriously. I have no major leaks.=
 I
>check it once a week. Maybe when I changed the oil, I didn't allow for the
>oil cooler.
>Anyway, seems I will be replacing the rod bearings before the snow falls. I
>sounds as if one is doinked. What an idiot I am!
>BTW. When you add oil, the tappets become more quiet, as well!
>Arghhhh!
>bridle (2m) between the  rings splits the strain equally between the two
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 27 lines)]
>related to "Beau Brummel" a famous Victorian British dandy and bon vivant,
>but perhaps its a German (Bavarian) name? Although your truck is British,=
 and
>looks great to me, it apears to be all "business" and not mere form. What a
>deal too! At least somebody got a "peace dividend"!
>PS I clicked on the Lucas powered counter and nothing happened! The problem
>with virtual Lucas components is that you cant physicaly beat them into
>submission, which occassionally works on the real item. Cheers. Andy=
>Arghhhh!
 Blackley
>------------------------------
>From: Michael R Fredette <mfredett@ptdcs2.intel.com>
>Subject: Re: conversion to FORD 305
>Date: Tue, 2 Sep 1997 09:08:05 -0700 (PDT)
>> Rob,
>> > Well I was working on installing a GM 3.0 engine into a IIA 109
>bridle (2m) between the  rings splits the strain equally between the two
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 132 lines)]
>        The new, unused Hi-Po goodies include:
>        Crane special grind cam (good for your stroker - a very flexible
grind -
>        good idle in a big displacement engine and offers excellant low end
>with
>        5500 upper usable power limit and a 6500rpm redline if you have the
>        cojones)
>                Duration @ .050-       210/214
>                Valve Lift-            432/440"
>                Av. Lobe Center        112 degrees
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 20 lines)]
>        Teflon valve seals (don't use 'em unless you go to bronze guides)
>        All parts are new and unused, still in their boxes (except the=
 rockers,
>        assembled one side for photos)
>        Cloyes Roller timing chain.
>        Would like to sell all the hi-po goodies in a package. I was asking
>$1350. for all but will now take $1000. For an even $1100. I will throw in
>the short block with the main bearing problem.
>        Also for sale:
>                Av. Lobe Center        112 degrees
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 24 lines)]
>Subject: Re: Noises...
>A few questions. How is the oil pressure in this motor? Does the oil=
 pressure
>light come on at low rpm when the engine is hot?
>As you know the bottom end of the 2.6 is not the strongest. IF the oil
>pressure is at ALL suspect or if it has been run low on oil I would
>IMMEDIATELY pull the pan and look at the rod bearings. It is not that hard=
 a
>job and the peace of mind would be considerable.
>BTW 70K is a LOT on 2.6 rod bearings.  I recommend replacement at 30k
>intervals. :-(
>Btw what happened to the 3.0 ?
>Rgds Quintin Aspin
>------------------------------
>Date: Tue, 02 Sep 1997 15:52:12 -0400
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 33 lines)]
>Subject: Tune up help needed
>Now that my frame is fixed, I've noticed that my engine really runs like=
 crap,
>er, poorly.
>Funny, hadn't noticed this when I was in terror of the whole car collapsing=
 in
>a pile of rust during a hard turn.
>The motor's a 2.25 gas with a Weber carb.  Here are the symptoms:  Starts
>nicely, idles a while, dies after 30 seconds or so if unattended.
>Occasionally when slowing from speed it will backfire (freeway off-ramps).=
>Rgds Quintin Aspin

>Needs to be revved a bit to stay running at stops (the old "wish I had=
 three
>feet" problem).    Sometimes when it dies at idle and I restart it the=
 motor
>runs like there was never a problem.  Then the next time I start it, things
>seem off kilter again.
>Here's what's been done:  Carb cleaner (the spray kind).  New dist. cap,
>points, ballast, coil, plugs.  I also leaned-out the carb a bit too get
>through the emissions test.  
>Any advice would be appreciated.
>Date: Tue, 02 Sep 1997 15:52:12 -0400
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 70 lines)]
>9 for the coil. If however it develops a fault then it may be dropping the
>voltage too much. Normally they go open circuit, but since it is getting=
 hot
>then this is not the case.
> Check all the connections and do some voltmeter readings around the coil=
 feed.
>Bill Leacock	Limey in exile
>89 RR; 67 - 109 and  early 88.
>------------------------------
>From: robot1@juno.com
>Date: Tue, 2 Sep 1997 16:07:43 -0500
>Subject: List is back!
>Date: Tue, 02 Sep 1997 15:52:12 -0400
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 188 lines)]
>Subject: Mid-Atlantic Land Rover Rally
>OK, gang, the Mid-Atlantic Rally, the largest gathering of the faithful on=

>the continent this year, is a month or so away - October 3-5.  If you have=

>received your registration form (I mailed out 400 two weeks ago), please
>return them ASAP.  If you haven't received one (or heard of the rally),
read on.
>The site is Penlan Farm in Buckingham County, VA, situated 2 miles west of=
>return them ASAP.  If you haven't received one (or heard of the rally),

>US RT 15 on county route 671.  The 671 turn off is about 7 miles south of=

>the US Rt 15 bridge over the James River.  There is plenty of room for
>camping on site with inns, motels or B&B's about 12+ miles away.  As the
>site is quite remote, there will be catered meals Saturday night and brunch=

>on Sunday.
>Competitions include the teeter-totter, slow race, blindfold obstacle=
>site is quite remote, there will be catered meals Saturday night and brunch=
 course
>and vehicle judging (most versatile, peoples choice and most room for
>improvement).  Prizes will be awarded for each - as well as the greatest
>distance traveled (in a Rover, Dixon) - but the premier event is the
>Aluminium Man Triathlon, a competition that combines a mechanical task=
 (tire
>change) with a UK-style "RTV" course and a pioneering task.  The trials
>course is a tight one through hill woodlands, but it has been driven by all=

>Rovers except a 130; however, with the newly created bog hole, it going to=

>be very difficult to finish.  (Mike's knobby-shod '66 88" has made it
>through four times, but it sticks D-90's quite well.) There's a Rover=
 trivia
>quiz included just to make sure you exercise the grey matter as well. =
 There
>are some major prizes for the winners, and the event T-shirt will be a
>stunning *full color* design by Sand Toler.
>Each event has a theme and honors a particular vehicle.  This year, it is=
>Aluminium Man Triathlon, a competition that combines a mechanical task=

>"Elegance in the Rough" and features the Range Rover.  For Saturday night,=

>there will be a 'creative black tie' affair under the big top: appetizers=

>(bacon wrapped scallops, puff pastries, chicken kabobs, seafood stuffed
>mushrooms) followed by your choice of grilled ribeye steak or salmon.  A
>jazz band provides accompaniment.  We will be serving up three kegs from
>Legend (a micro in Richmond): porter, brown ale and an IPA.
>Because the site is so remote, we need to now how many mouths were are=
>Subject: List is back!
 going
>to feed PDQ.  Please fill out the following form and snail mail it back=
 with
>you cheque ASAP.
>Name____________________________________  Vehicle _________   Year ______
>Address ________________________________     Phone Number _______________
>City ____________________________    State ________   ZIP _______________
>E-Mail __________________________
>Subject: List is back!
>Date: Tue, 02 Sep 1997 15:52:12 -0400
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 35 lines)]
>However, uninvited guests sometimes drop by.  Last year, Hurrican Fran
>showed up two weeks before and another visited Tuesday after the rally.  In=

>the event of pending *catastrophic* weather call 757-423-4898 or the rally=

>site 804-581-1331 or E-mail to lr88@aol.com.
>If you simply must have a roof over your head, here are a few phone=
>Address ________________________________     Phone Number _______________
 numbers:
>Buckingham Lodge, a corporate retreat-type of place on the James River with=
>If you simply must have a roof over your head, here are a few phone=

>        rooms from about $65. 804-286-2100.
>Fork Union Motel.  Fork Union's finest (also: only) from $48. 804-842-3255.
>Palmer Country Manor.  B&B about 30 min away; from $120. 800-253-4306.
>Tranquility Farm 20 miles south. $55. 804-392-4456.
>High Meadows Vineyard. Historic register B&B in Scottsville.
>        Antique-stuffed rooms from about $100. 804-286-2218.
>We hope to see you there.  Cheers
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 27 lines)]
>-You can get it off with the screw driver & hammer or get a hub socket to
>fit.  All the land rover parts outlets will have one.  It will come in=
 handy
>when you put everything back together.
>Be Happy Barrie
>60 SII 88 Rugbeater
>------------------------------
>Date: Tue, 2 Sep 1997 23:18:40 -0400 (EDT)
>        Antique-stuffed rooms from about $100. 804-286-2218.
>We hope to see you there.  Cheers
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 15 lines)]
>On Tue, 2 Sep 1997, Alexander P. Grice wrote:
>> OK, gang, the Mid-Atlantic Rally, the largest gathering of the faithful=
 on
>> the continent this year, is a month or so away - October 3-5.  If you=
 have
>	Hear you take Northern Pesos at par!
>> improvement).  Prizes will be awarded for each - as well as the greatest=
>60 SII 88 Rugbeater
>------------------------------

>> distance traveled (in a Rover, Dixon) -
>	Yeah, yeah...  two days after a job change.  This could be
>interesting...
>> Rovers except a 130; however, with the newly created bog hole, it going=
>Date: Tue, 2 Sep 1997 23:18:40 -0400 (EDT)
>        Antique-stuffed rooms from about $100. 804-286-2218.
 to
>> be very difficult to finish. 
>	Damn, gotta get a sump guard for the Saab... :-)
>> We will be serving up three kegs from Legend (a micro in Richmond):
>porter, brown ale and an IPA.
>	Ho!  Seal of approval granted!
>        Antique-stuffed rooms from about $100. 804-286-2218.
>We hope to see you there.  Cheers
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 10 lines)]
>	Ho!  Seal of approval granted!
>> Please make the cheques payable to ROAV...and yes, if you are willing to=

>> drive down from Canada, we'll take the northern peso at par.
>	Bonus!  Yeah!  We'll be there...
>------------------------------
>Date: Tue, 02 Sep 1997 22:01:44 -0700
>From: Greg Moore <gmoore@island.net>
>Subject: Re: Rusting Gas Tank
>We hope to see you there.  Cheers
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 137 lines)]
>On Wed, 3 Sep 1997, Paul Nash wrote:
>> I've just had a rush of blood to the head, and am thinking of buying a=
 GPS
>> unit, and want recommendations.
>I've got a Garmin II+ which I'm very pleased with. Definitely hand-held,
>triangular profile, which makes it sit very nicely on the dash (with a
>bit of velcro), and is small enough for your jacket pocket.
>Take a look at the various models on http://www.garmin.com
>If you have access to news, join sci.geo.satellite-nav. Lots of
>We hope to see you there.  Cheers
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 12 lines)]
>useful info.
>> And, the most important of all, are they any use?  Is this a silly idea=
 (I
>> was a boy scout once, and can find North with two sticks, a piece of moss
>> and a pocket-knife :-)), or are they essential once you get out of the=
 city
>> centre?
>You need accurate, detailed maps. With those, navigation is a breeze.
>You won't find it useful IN the city centre, as accuracy can be as low
>as 100 metres, especially if building come between you and some of
>the satellites.
>Useful? If you go where people usually don't, yes. If (like me) you
>are a gadget freak, definitely useful :-=3D
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 25 lines)]
>case?
>Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR with a g/box that's suddenly a bit=
 quieter!)
>------------------------------
>From: "Tom Dixon" <tomd@clear.net.nz>
>Subject: Series 3 power steer
>Date: Wed, 3 Sep 1997 21:25:21 +1200
>Hi, I am currently rebuilding my 1979 series 3 lwb. I plan to fit a Holden
>186 motor which is no great deal. What I would like is some info on fitting
>are a gadget freak, definitely useful :-=3D
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 43 lines)]
>understood what you sent him, contact majordomo-owner@Land-Rover.Team.Net
>  -B

------------------------------

From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Wed, 3 Sep 1997 09:42:23 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: List is back!

In a message dated 97-09-03 04:06:23 EDT, you write:

<<  I don't want to flat tow it. I have tentatively
 arranged a rollback at 350.00  >>

!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Rent a 1/2 ton pick up and a flat bed trailer (you may have to go to two
different places).  Pick up should run in the 50-100 range per day and the
flatbed around 60-100.

One thing to note:  If you do use a flatbed trailer, after strapping down the
LR, shift to neutral and put the transfercase in neutral.

Nate

------------------------------

From: "DAN NAVARRO" <Dan.Navarro@UCHSC.edu>
Date: Wed, 3 Sep 1997 07:49:22 MST-0700
Subject: Loss of power

I have an 88 IIa, with a solex carburator, that has run great until 
recently.  On morning without warning, it loss power after going two 
blocks.  It would idle fine and rev up to about 3000rpms and then 
lose power.  It would just lose revs until it hit idle speed and stay 
there.  Never backfired or sputtered just a slow , steady loss of 
power at high rpms.  Went back that afternoon to tow it home and it 
ran fine.  Next day I was able to go 8 blocks before it started to 
lose power under high rpms.  Sometimes it loses power when its in 
neutral, just stepping on the gas, other times when I try to engage the clutch.  Before I take 
the solex apart, I would like to know if there is a possibility it 
could be the mechanical fuel.  Thank you for your suggestions.

------------------------------

Subject: Re: 	GPS recommendations
Date: Wed, 3 Sep 97 09:48:07 -0400
From: David Russell <David_R@mindspring.com>

I'm also looking for a GPS and am leaning towards the GPSII+. Here are 
some more sites to check out:

http://www.utexas.edu/depts/grg/gcraft/notes/gps/gps.html
http://www.navtechgps.com/index.html

I have trouble when keying www.garmin.com but the below is their site or 
just type "garmin" in the URL field in your browser

http://illustra.garmin.com/db
http://www.delorme.com/

http://vancouver-webpages.com/peter/index.html
http://www.mapquest.com
http://www.bridge.de/~tom/garmin.htm

On 9/3/97 06:56 owner-lro-digest@playground.sun.com wrote: 

>Date: Wed, 3 Sep 1997 16:41:31 +1000
>From: Paul Nash <paul@frcs.alt.za>
>Subject: GPS recommendations
>I've just had a rush of blood to the head, and am thinking of buying a GPS
>unit, and want recommendations.

David Russell
http://www.mindspring.com/~david_r
David_R@mindspring.com
1969 SIIA SWB (Pastel Green, 4-speed)
1997 SD (Oxford Blue, 5-speed)
1977 FJ40 (rust, 8-speed (hopefully still))

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Wed, 3 Sep 1997 09:53:50 -0400
Subject: Re: Loss of power

Re: POwer loss at higher RPMS:

I''d bet on the fuel filter and fuel pump on this one - I've seen it before
personally.

Also, try cleaning the inlet screen on the Solex - it could well have crud
floating about in it.

                         ajr

------------------------------

SPAM

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 03 Sep 1997 06:57:50 -0700
From: Greg Moore <gmoore@island.net>
Subject: Re: Loss of power

DAN NAVARRO wrote:

> I have an 88 IIa, with a solex carburator, that has run great until
> recently.

I'm assuming the filter/sediment bowl is clean and the choke isn't stuck
partially on right?

Cheers, Greg

------------------------------

From: Michael R Fredette <mfredett@ptdcs2.intel.com>
Subject: Re: Rusting Gas Tank
Date: Wed, 3 Sep 1997 08:24:30 -0700 (PDT)

>I recently noticed that my gas tank is badly rusted.
 [ truncated by lro-lite (was 17 lines)]
 shop and be prepared to pay dearly.
>Any other options I overlooked?
 
 Just don't buy an aftermarket stainless steel tank.Semi-nightmare story
 available. Buy a gen. tank or get yours repaired by a pro. Don't take a 
 chance with those fumes. I am super pissed about the stainless tank I just
 bought for $275. Buy Genuine if you can. I can't believe after three
 Land-Rovers and about 8 P-6's I still bought an aftermarket piece. BUT...
 then I still can't believe I drink bheer on an empty stomach...I know it
 saves money but..... Best, Pete in Va.....'66 IIA  88-Topless 
 
*****************************************************
Pete,

    OK, I'll bite, what was the nightmare story with the stainless steel tank?
    Did it leak, not fit properly, look ugly, what?

    Rgds
    Mike Fredette
    Portland, Or.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 3 Sep 1997 10:30:56 -0500 (CDT)
From: Ray Harder <ccray@showme.missouri.edu>
Subject: some ihc phone numbers...

for some reason, i also subscribe to the international 
harvestor scout mailing list.  they talk about the same
things that appear on the leaf-spring lro list:  brakes,
welding, painting, rust, engines, heaters, tx, etc,etc...  if i
close my eyes, i can mentally substitute sii for scout...

anyway, i am in the market for some hi-lift brackets and
noted this one -- thought i would share...
        
ray harder (siia 88 (lulu))

From: Mallinson1@aol.com
Date: Wed, 3 Sep 1997 01:14:18 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Hi-Lift & Max Multi-tool

	I just got a Hi-lift catalog in the mail.  (800-233-2051)  The folks there
were very helpful and suggested some local dealers, though I can always buy
from the manufacturer.  They offer 2 jacks (regular and heavy duty) in 4
different sizes, and lots of accessories, bumper attachments (may work under
the hood?), replacement parts and so-on.  Prices run from $58-$65.  They also
have some interesting tie-down systems & ramps for the pick-up owners.
	The Max Tool from the Forest Tool Company (707-937-2141) is a save-all axe,
shovel, pick, etc.  for about $170.  It looks pretty tough and will probably
come in handy on the trail.  
	I don't do 4wd-ing in my `62 100 PU, but I can go alot of places in my
"granny" 1st gear.  The rubber on my tires is cracking although there is a
fair amout of tread left.  I need to get my heater/defroster working before
the rainy season starts (mid-October).  The blower is shot and the core needs
refurbishment.  Does anyone think a radiator shop could fix it?  I also need
to replace every wire and connection.  The truck is my daily driver, so
projects are done over nights if it is dry, or on weekends.  It's also handy
to have a Napa across the street from where I work.  

Thanks,
Steve Mallinson
`62 C100 Pickup, BD-240 

------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 03 Sep 1997 11:36:01 -0400
From: Jan Ben <ben@lucent.com>
Subject: superchargers, turbos FS

Hi all.
I am cleaning out my swap meet treasures bin..
I have:

3.8 buick GN turbo (new or factory rebuilt Garrett, still w. tags) $150
2.3 Ford (Garrett, used, feels OK, some oil on the turbine side) $50

3.8 Ford SC (Eaton) , complete w. all plumbing and TB - feels OK. $150

just in case you were planning any SC projects..
thx
Jan

------------------------------

From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Subject: RE: Rusting Gas Tank
Date: Wed, 3 Sep 1997 08:59:39 -0700

 A new gas tank from Paddock's is only =A335.00 after VAT is taken off
for export.  Air freight shouldn't amount to much more than $50.00 to
North America.   This is cheaper than any 'overhaul' that I have heard
of.

Paul.

----------
From:  M. Tompkins[SMTP:mmglass@ix.netcom.com]
Sent:  Tuesday, September 02, 1997 7:32 PM
Subject:  Rusting Gas Tank

HELP!
I recently noticed that my gas tank is badly rusted.
Murphy's Law dictates it will start leaking in the middle
of the winter. I would like to deal with it now.

Reading previous postings I take it my options are to choose
from the following:

#1 - Buy a new one
#2 - Repair the old one by removing the bottom plate, removing the
     rust inside and out, applying a rust inhibitor, then coating
     the whole thing with an epoxy paint or use the Eastwood stuff.
#3 - Take the tank to a radiator repair shop or a boiler repair
     shop and be prepared to pay dearly.

Any other options I overlooked?

Any advice on choosing an option and what I should look out for?

------------------------------

From: John Putnam <JPutnam@whpacific.com>
Subject: RE: GPS recommendations
Date: Wed, 3 Sep 1997 09:36:24 -0700

Paul,

I've got a Trimble 4000SSi I mount on the Rhino for the ocational GPS
mapping job.  Realy accurate ( providing you can get phase data from a
known point ) and it does interface with a PC but it is kind of spendy (
about $39,000 US ).  If your looking for quality, Trimble does make some
fine handhelds that range in price from $2,500 to around $300.  You can
also get other make for around $150.  Most of these can be hooked it a
radio correction to get you within a meter given you can pick up a radio
signal.  Also look for one that has an external antenna port.

Good Luck

PS some time I'll scan the photos of the Rhino at work with GPS.

John Putnam
GPS Surveyor at Large
Forest Grove, OR
'70 SIIa SWB 'Rhino'

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	Paul Nash [SMTP:paul@frcs.alt.za]
> Sent:	Tuesday, September 02, 1997 11:42 PM
> To:	lro@playground.sun.com
> Subject:	GPS recommendations

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 48 lines)]
> centre?
> 	paul

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 03 Sep 1997 07:03:18 -1000
From: Faye and Peter Ogilvie <ogilvi@hgea.org>
Subject: Re: Rusting Gas Tank

I'll be biter #2.  If I ever get the time to get my 109 back on the road, I
will need a new  tank.  What is the problem specifically with the
aftermarket tanks and who is the manufacturer and/or supplier of these
problem tanks.
Aloha
Peter O 
>*****************************************************
>Pete,
>    OK, I'll bite, what was the nightmare story with the stainless steel

tank?
>    Did it leak, not fit properly, look ugly, what?
>    Rgds
>    Mike Fredette
>    Portland, Or.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 3 Sep 1997 12:19:17 -0500 (CDT)
From: David Kurzman <kurzman@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Rusting Gas Tank

>    OK, I'll bite, what was the nightmare story with the stainless steel tank?
>    Did it leak, not fit properly, look ugly, what?
>    Rgds
>    Mike Fredette
>    Portland, Or.

Well maybe not a nightmare...just a pain in the butt. The hole for the 
sending unit was too small and the predrilled tapped holes did not line up.
Had to borrow a dremel tool to open the hole up, go out and buy a nice sharp
bit to redrill the holes and then the thing was just a hair too big. I
really had to force it in with the attachment bolts. BUT...It doesn't leak
and I guess it won't rust out until the frame is dust:-)
Best, Pete in Va.  '66 IIA 88- Topless
PS  And of course the sending unit now has packed up. Probably from messing
with it trying to get it in the hole.

------------------------------

From: RoverNut@aol.com
Date: Wed, 3 Sep 1997 13:54:25 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re:tuneup help

Your distributor may be out of round, although the symptoms you descibe seem
a bit extreme for that, but what I'm going to  suggest certainly can't hurt.

I'm sold on the fact that bringing one's ignition up to date is key. I
installed a Pertronix electronic ignition and the improvement was
mind-blowing. Even if the distributor is worn, it really doesn't matter much
since there is no real contact of parts, just magnets, or in the case of the
Luminition, lights/optics.
I think the Pertronix is the best bet. I installed it in 30 minutes with
three tools while wearing a tie. It's ease of install and  it's price are its
advantages. The Luminition is supposably a little nicer, but it is difficult
to install and adjust and I think it runs over $200. The Pertronix is about
$89 ( all US dollar figures ).

I recommend changing the coil and spark plug wires at the same time for two
reasons: the new improved efficient ignition can be a strain on an older coil
and it's always a good idea to eliminate any potential weak links in the
chain.

Gas mileage improves a little as well. One caveat: carry your old
points/condensor and emergency tools in case of failure. A quick install of
 these parts, even if they are a little worn, will get you home or at least
to an auto parts store, and most of them carry the points/condensor you need,
believe it or not. The Pertronix, to the best of my knowledge, is mail order
only. Try BP, AB, DAP, etc.
I've been running mine failure-free for two years now.

Good luck,
Alex

------------------------------

From: RoverNut@aol.com
Date: Wed, 3 Sep 1997 14:09:34 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: GPS

In a message dated 97-09-03 07:05:40 EDT, you write:

<< l've just had a rush of blood to the head, and am thinking of buying a GPS
 unit, and want recommendations. >>

All I can say is that Garman comes with high marks, except for the budget
model, the GPS 38 which, for lack of a better word, sucks.

It has a hard time acquiring EPE and when it does, it will often link weakly.
What this means to non-GPSers: Unless you are hiking in a dessert, it will be
of little use. Trees muck things up, and forget about using it in a moving
vehicle. I'd set mine on the ledge of my RRs open sunroof and get lame
results at best. Same with the IIa running soft-top. 
Point: spend the dough. Make sure you can add an external antenna if you want
to use it in the car, and get one that is expandable for use with a PC,
because you never know......
I've used one with my laptop and proper software and it is about the coolest
thing I've ever seen.

Take Care
Alex Maiolo
69 IIa
89 RR

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 03 Sep 1997 11:31:38 -0700
From: "Stephen C. Gross P0964" <scgross@ibm.net>
Subject: Winch for D90

I have a Warn M8000 w/mounting hardware (original equipment delivered
on my D90) for sale. I just installed an ARB bumper and will be updating my
winch to the larger M10000.

-steve

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 03 Sep 1997 11:54:28 -0700
From: "Clinton D. Coates" <Clinton_Coates@bc.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Wheezy 2.25

Leftenant Jackson has a problem

>Now that my frame is fixed, I've noticed that my engine really runs like 
>crap...during a hard turn.

>The motor's a 2.25 gas with a Weber carb.  Here are the symptoms:  Starts
>nicely, idles a while, dies after 30 seconds....it dies at idle and I 
>restart it the motor runs like there was never a problem.  Then the next 
>time I start it, things seem off kilter again.

>Here's what's been done:  Carb cleaner (the spray kind).  New dist. cap,
>points, ballast, coil, plugs.  I also leaned-out the carb a bit too get
>through the emissions test.

Check your vacuum advance and try and see if there are any other leaks.  My 
truck had the same problem.  Sometimes I had to have the throttle over half 
way to keep the truck running, other times it was ok (and it really sucked 
when it was damp out).  I replaced everything (including a new crane ignition 
system) to no avail, thinking it was electrical.  I was messing around one 
day with the distributor and idly tried to check the vacuum on the advance 
(sucked on  the hose that goes from the carb, should go <phutt> and no more 
air...mine went <phooooooooossssssssssss>).  I replaced it and bingo, a rock 
steady idle.  But, the valve seats had been thrashed by too much driving with 
the wrong timing, so I had to get a head job done too.

Clinton

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 03 Sep 1997 11:58:30 -0700
From: "Clinton D. Coates" <Clinton_Coates@bc.sympatico.ca>
Subject: hub nuts

-You can get it off with the screw driver & hammer or get a hub socket to
fit.  All the land rover parts outlets will have one.  It will come in 
handy
when you put everything back together.

Channel lock pliers work well too, and don't mess up the nuts the way a 
hammer and punch do.  If they have been chopped with a punch before, make 
sure that there are no raised bits interfering with the bearing faces 
before you reassemble them.

Clinton

Oh, and check the distance pieces for wear too.  They are simple to get 
off and replace and could have a direct bearing on the seal failure.  If 
they are not *absolutely* smooth, replace em.

------------------------------

From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Subject: Speaking of vacuum advance.
Date: Wed, 3 Sep 1997 12:03:01 -0700

Speaking of vacuum advance, I have a 1961 Series II SWB with a Solex 
Carb, and as far as I can tell, the vacuum advance has been 
disconnected for years.  The pipe coming off of the distributor 
diaphragm is metal and has been pinched shut.  There is a similar 
metal pipe coming out of the bottom of the carb.  Is this where the 
dist. pipe should lead to?  Or should it go directly to the intake 
manifold?

Paul Quin
1961 Series II 88
Victoria, BC  Canada

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 03 Sep 1997 20:47:21 +0100
From: Chris Bradley <chrisbradley@dial.pipex.com>
Subject: For Sale

For sale

Ex British Army of the Rhine Landrover Ambulance.
1966, Series 2 Left Hand Drive 31,000 miles.

Excellent condition, used daily & runs very well.

Current UK MoT

UK Road tax exempt

3000 GB Pounds

Reply to this e-mail or phone /fax +44 1179 423586

(no blood stains honest:)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 03 Sep 1997 20:50:56 +0100
From: Chris Bradley <chrisbradley@dial.pipex.com>
Subject: For sale

For sale

Ex British Army of the Rhine Landrover Ambulance.
1966, Series 2 Left Hand Drive 31,000 miles.

Excellent condition, used daily & runs very well.

Current UK MoT

UK Road tax exempt

3000 GB Pounds

Reply to this e-mail or phone /fax +44 1179 423586

(no blood stains honest:)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 03 Sep 1997 23:09:41 +0200
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Subject: How do we deal with all this Junk mail?
[digester: Removing section of:  Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="------------9EF19725C552D2B19C33D486" ]

One of the great things about the LOR lists has been the absence of
junk-mail so well known from the Usergroups. UNTIL NOW

This week I have received 5 offers to sell me mailing lists (which i
don't want) and 4 mails promising me fame, fortune and eternal happiness
if I just forward this mail to 191827366546543 other unwitting users
(maybe using the junk-mailer from the first offers?)

Quite frankly - I'm tired of this - I know it's not the major's fault,
and I guess that no-one on the lists here could be so dumb as to
subscribe to this crap, but I'm still p+&&ed off!

Hey, you can't even flame-back these days - the junk-mail programmes
just strip their e-mail address off and replace it with a falsie, if you
reply you just get more junk mail from falsies telling you that falsies
don't exists - and so on.

Maybe the Major could add some sort of trick which rejects mail which
doesn't contain certain letters (such as LR?)

I don't mind having to delete the stuff which we all write but which
sometimes I'm not interested in reading - after all I did subscribe to
this list and I write just about as much irrelevant crap as everyone
else.

But these "freeloaders" (see there's the LR content!) who waste my time
are a pain in the rear diff.

I guess that if we could split the list, so that all the junk mail went
to nonexist@lro.com and the rest went here, then the major would have
already tried.

I run a business, we're six people who already have to wade through a
pile of Land Rover stuff which all but 1 don't want to read - plus we
have our fair share of unsolicited mail off-list - so this is becoming a
problem.

Where is the world going? We have so many possibilities for
communicating with each other, that we just communicate without
connecting - can we find a solution that we all can live with, and which
hopefully makes life a great deal more sour for those jerks who waste
our time.

Any ideas - answers welcome!
-- 
Adrian Redmond

---------------------------------------------------
CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
---------------------------------------------------
telephone (office)		    +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)		    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data                +45 86 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)		    +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)                  +45 40 54 22 66
mobile NMT			    +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail			     channel6@post2.tele.dk
HoTMaiL (www.e-mail)	channel6denmark@hotmail.com
---------------------------------------------------
--------------9EF19725C552D2B19C33D486

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 03 Sep 1997 15:33:50 -0600
From: Rick Grant <rgrant@cadvision.com>
Subject: Re: How do we deal with all this Junk mail?

At 11:09 PM 03/09/97 +0200, Adrian Redmond, wrote

>This week I have received 5 offers to sell me mailing lists (which i
>don't want) and 4 mails promising me fame, fortune and eternal happiness

There's a fortune for the person who invents a way for dealing with this.
I've been able to avoid a lot of it by setting up a whole slew of Eudora
filters that dump them into the Trash bucket.  This lead to an unfortunate
experience last week when I called a client about an overdue account only to
make the discovery <= (LR content) that he had emailed me saying the cheque
was in the mail.  Unfortunately he put the word MONEY in the subject line
and Eudora threw it away before I could see it.  (Mind you I'm still waiting
for the cheque <g>)

			Rick Grant

			1959, SII   "VORIZO"  

rgrant@cadvision.com	
www.cadvision.com/rgrant
Cobra Media Communications.  Calgary, Canada
Aboriginal and International Relief Issues

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 03 Sep 1997 17:46:29 -0500
From: Wesley Harris <wharris@infowks.com>
Subject: Remove

At 01:44 PM 9/3/97 UT, you wrote:
>-----Original Message-----
>From:	extractor@impactmarketing.com 
>Sent:	Tuesday, September 02, 1997 9:28 AM
>To:	lro@playground.sun.com

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 73 lines)]
>with the word, "Remove" in the subject heading, and Extractor PRO will
>automatically remove you from the list.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 4 Sep 1997 08:49:40 +1000
From: Paul Nash <paul@frcs.alt.za>
Subject: Re: How do we deal with all this Junk mail?

>There's a fortune for the person who invents a way for dealing with this.

As most spammers seem to have snailmail addresses (to send the money to),
the easiest way is to use many of the (now unemployed) South African
security services "dirty tricks" people to send them letterbombs.  A few
spammers losing hands and eyes and they'll probably get the message.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 4 Sep 1997 08:55:10 +1000
From: Paul Nash <paul@frcs.alt.za>
Subject: Re: Rusting Gas Tank

>will need a new  tank.  What is the problem specifically with the
>aftermarket tanks and who is the manufacturer and/or supplier of these
>problem tanks.

I bought an aftermarket tank here in Australia for my sIII wagon.  Apart
from needing a bit of plumbing to get all the pipes connected, as the
fittings were in _very_ wierd places, and having to re-drill the mounting
holes, no problems at all.  The tank is a *LOT* stronger than the genuine
article (they advertise that you can jack the truck up on the bottom of the
tank, and I have no reason to doubt them), and doesn't have the silly
double skin that traps sand and causes all teh rust.

	paul

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 3 Sep 1997 19:38:23 -0500
From: eheite@dmv.com (Ned Heite)
Subject: Gas tank repairs

This summer my SWB 88 had an unfortunate encounter with a Nissan that came
out second-best, on the left side of the car. The tie rod was bent double
when the Nissan went airborne, but Baby survived very well, except for the
gas tank, which began leaking profusely.

The culprit, I found, was rust between the two layers of the tank, caused
by water lying in the interstices. It seems that the solder joint between
the two layers will work apart, allowing water to get in beneath the mud
coat and rust the inner tank.

Quntin-the-fixer told me to do the following, which worked.

1. Separate the outer (bottom) tank cover from the tank itself. The two
parts are soldered together, so the joint is breakable. I used a floor
chisel to good effect to gently pop the two layers apart. Clean all
surfaces.

2. You will now be faced with a tank with rusty and probably long-lost
joints. Fear not. Clean everything. You probably will discover that you
punctured the bottom of the tank around the drainplug, which seems to be
seated in a solder bead. Have another Guinness.

3. Bigger holes might require some of that two-part epoxy gas-tank putty.
It is very good. I tried it. New holes will appear as you clean the tank.
Coat the bottom, front, and back with epoxy and let it dry. Then coat
again. While it is wet, get some fiberglass cloth (not mat, as Quintin
warned me) and swaddle the bottom of the tank, after liberally coating the
bottom part with epoxy. Then put another coat of epoxy over the cloth and
yet another coat on the cleaned underneath metal layer of the tank.  The
tank should be upside down. Lay the underneath part on top, and push real
hard, so that it seats. I had to leave weights on mine. It is then a good
idea to liberally coat the shiny-clean tank with epoxy, just because.

I used about a quart of epoxy and a piece of fiberglass cloth that comes in
the store with kits they sell for patching your 'vette.

Right now, I am experimenting with the low temperature welding rods for
aluminum that you heat with propane. Anyone tried them?

  _______
. |___|__\_==    eheite@dmv.com
. | _ |  | --]   Ned Heite,                <DARWIN><
. =(O)-----(O)=  Camden, DE 19934          / \  / \
"Baby" Series IIA 88" 2.25L petrol Land Rover-----------------
Wool Camp in Iceland:  http://www.dmv.com/~iceland------------
Recent research:  http://home.dmv.com/~eheite/index.html -----
http://home.dmv.com/~eheite/landrover/lrhtml/1landrover.html--

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 04 Sep 1997 02:04:53 +0200
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Subject: Re: Gas tank repairs
[digester: Removing section of:  Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="------------CFAFE001D91DECEA3C638E70" ]

Ned Heite wrote:
> This summer my SWB 88 had an unfortunate encounter with a Nissan that
> came
> out second-best, on the left side of the car. The tie rod was bent
> double
> when the Nissan went airborne, but Baby survived very well, except for
> the
> gas tank, which began leaking profusely.
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 69 lines)]
> http://home.dmv.com/~eheite/landrover/lrhtml/1landrover.html--
> --------------------------------------------------------------
Hi Ned!

I've recently tried a very similar recipe - using non benzin soluble
silicone mastic (having repaired the holes with "plastic metal")

I did one of the other tanks in the same way years ago, no problem
since.

Like so many LR jobs - this seems to be one that actually improves the
design (and should have been done before the car got into the showroom)

All things well here in Mesing - though the new 88" is still running
like a lawn-mower.
-- 
Adrian Redmond

---------------------------------------------------
CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
---------------------------------------------------
telephone (office)		    +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)		    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data                +45 86 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)		    +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)                  +45 40 54 22 66
mobile NMT			    +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail			     channel6@post2.tele.dk
HoTMaiL (www.e-mail)	channel6denmark@hotmail.com
---------------------------------------------------
--------------CFAFE001D91DECEA3C638E70

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 3 Sep 1997 21:48:57 -0500
From: Allan Smith <smitha@candw.lc>
Subject: Re: Cuban recipe for brakefluid

Hi all - interesting -
Knowing their shortage of most things, when I went to a mar biol meeting in Cuba a 
couple of years ago I took supplies of stuff from toothpaste to fax paper. As their 
vehicle supply connection had just been severed for the second time,  I thought about 
a few Lada spares as well. I still had my Niva and a Caribbean source for their 
very inexpensive parts. They make their own DeSoto spares, and evidently brake fluid 
as well. 

Shampoo alone has been used in brake systems when there is nothing else to get you 
home. Using alcohol as a component is interesting. We are advised by LR to change 
brake fluid after 2 years because it absorbs water which will corrode the hydraulic 
system or boil at the wrong moment. Alcohol (presumably ethanol in this case) can't be 
completely dried, and anything available commercially will have a lot more H20 than 
even old brake fluid. 
Sugar? It just came to me - we in the West Indies use unrefined brown sugar, and a 
spoonful would impart a DOT 3/4 tint :-)

Allan  

------------------------------

From: TBache9248@aol.com
Date: Wed, 3 Sep 1997 23:28:56 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: diesel engine for sale

Hi List,
A one time for sale post if I may.
1982 Nissan 2.7 litre NA, same as used in IH Scout
>From a Maxima with auto box, 63k miles
has alt and vacuum pump
kit to install is readily avail in the UK for $500.00
need flywheel and starter
great for install in 109" or RR
$950.00
Tom Bache
Avondale, PA

------------------------------

From: JSmallals@aol.com
Date: Thu, 4 Sep 1997 00:59:30 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Need help with cooling system!!!

Hello all,

My rover seems to have a strange problem.  It runs at about 88 degrees but
when I turn it off it overheats to about 100 degrees and dumps water out the
overflow.  Also, it takes about three hours to cool down to the point when I
can touch the engine.  The thermostat is new...and it never overheats while
driving.  Any suggestions are appreciated as I don't know much about cooling
systems.

thanks,

James Small
66 IIA SWB  "Emmett"

------------------------------

From: Franz Parzefall <franz@max.physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de>
Subject: Re: How do we deal with all this Junk mail?
Date: Thu, 4 Sep 1997 08:27:23 +0200 (MET DST)

Hi,
| I've been able to avoid a lot of it by setting up a whole slew of Eudora
| filters that dump them into the Trash bucket.  This lead to an unfortunate
| experience last week when I called a client about an overdue account only to
| make the discovery <= (LR content) that he had emailed me saying the cheque
| was in the mail.  Unfortunately he put the word MONEY in the subject line
| and Eudora threw it away before I could see it.
I use procmail to filter my mail (unix system). Most junk mail doesn't have
your address in the 'To:' header entry (aswell as mailing lists). So if you
filter out the list mails first and then the privat stuff, there is just the
junk left. I still testing this, but so far it worked well. If anyone is
interested in the procmail commandfile email me.

Cheers,
Franz
Franz Parzefall                franz@physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de
		   http://www.physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de/~franz
       _______
      [____|\_\==
      [_-__|__|_-]      Brumml, exmil. 1989 Land Rover 110 2.5D
 ___.._(0)..._.(0)__..-
                                  

------------------------------

From: Franz Parzefall <franz@max.physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de>
Subject: new LR pic (part 2)
Date: Thu, 4 Sep 1997 08:52:48 +0200 (MET DST)

Hi folks,
Ron Beckett told me that the jpegs on my page are rather huge
for peaople on slow links.
Now there are smaller ones, too, so everybody can enjoy.....

Cheers,
Franz
PS. Note that I changed th directory structure on my
homepage, so please update your links.
Franz Parzefall                franz@physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de
		   http://www.physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de/~franz

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 4 Sep 1997 09:41:12 +0100
From: "Said Geoffrey at MITTS" <Geoffrey.Said@magnet.mt>
Subject: RE:Back on the road

Nice job

Thanks
Geff Sherman

LT J Jackson:
>Good to see that the digest is up and running, and just in time to herald the
>rebirth of my
>SIII:
>Name:  Gertie (after Galloping Gertie, the old Tacoma Narrows bridge)
>Weight:  You wouldn't want it to fall on you.

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 32 lines)]
>Waterford, CT 
>73 SIII 88" (Gertie)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 4 Sep 1997 09:43:13 +0100
From: "Said Geoffrey at MITTS" <Geoffrey.Said@magnet.mt>
Subject: RE:Noises...

I have a similar problem but from what I can hear it is a cross that is slowly 
wearing away.  When you hear the noises put your head out of the windows (mind 
the road!!!!!) and see from where the noise is coming.

Thanks
Geff Sheerman

WJMcD@aol.com:
>I've recently developed some rattling noises in either my gearbox or motor.
>Tough to tell. It sounds like muted machine gun fire and happens at higher
>rpms, especially just after I lay-off the accelerator.
>I know I need to adjust the tappets, but this seems louder than that. I keep
>having reoccuring nightmares of another endcap coming loose from a rod. For

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 16 lines)]
>Any ideas?
>Bill McDonald

------------------------------

From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: RE: Rusting Gas Tank
Date: Thu, 4 Sep 97 8:43:33 BST

>  A new gas tank from Paddock's is only #35.00 after VAT is taken off 
> for export.  Air freight shouldn't amount to much more than $50.00 to 
> North America.   This is cheaper than any 'overhaul' that I have heard 
> of.
> Paul.

My left tank is aftermarket DLS military. They fit okey, but the usual 
aftermarket story, of not being *quite* right (inparticular the gasket around
the filler) applies. Also, remember to waxoyl it *before* it goes in
(I was a wet-behind-the-ears Landy owner at the time)

Richard

> ----------
> From:  M. Tompkins[SMTP:mmglass@ix.netcom.com]
> Sent:  Tuesday, September 02, 1997 7:32 PM
> To:  lro@playground.sun.com
> Subject:  Rusting Gas Tank

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 32 lines)]
> Any other options I overlooked?
> Any advice on choosing an option and what I should look out for?

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 03 Sep 1997 21:55:38 -1000
From: Faye and Peter Ogilvie <ogilvi@hgea.org>
Subject: Re: Need help with cooling system!!!

	Probably nothing wrong with your truck. When you shut the ignition off,
nothing but convection circulates water and it tends to cook in the engine.
Water temp of a 100C is not a problem. You could put in an electric pump to
circulate the water and electric fan to cool it but it would be a waste of
time.  
	The fact that you can touch your engine may be serious cause for alarm,
however. Most of us have to get a putty knife out to scrape off the oil
dirt mixture to even find the engine. Are you sure there is oil in the
engine cause if it is not on the outside, there may be none on the inside.

At 12:59 AM 9/4/97 -0400, you wrote:
>Hello all,
>My rover seems to have a strange problem.  It runs at about 88 degrees but
>when I turn it off it overheats to about 100 degrees and dumps water out the
>overflow.  Also, it takes about three hours to cool down to the point when I
>can touch the engine.  The thermostat is new...and it never overheats while

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 18 lines)]
>James Small
>66 IIA SWB  "Emmett"

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 4 Sep 1997 10:07:40 +0100
From: "Said Geoffrey at MITTS" <Geoffrey.Said@magnet.mt>
Subject: RE:Re: Need help with cooling system!!!

Why have landrover engines to be covered with oil.  Mine is shining green all 
year round.  It only leakes slowly from the sump and after crank seal.

Thanks
Geff Sherman

Faye and Peter Ogilvie:
>       Probably nothing wrong with your truck. When you shut the ignition off,
>nothing but convection circulates water and it tends to cook in the engine.
>Water temp of a 100C is not a problem. You could put in an electric pump to
>circulate the water and electric fan to cool it but it would be a waste of
>time.  
>       The fact that you can touch your engine may be serious cause for alarm,

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 21 lines)]
>>James Small
>>66 IIA SWB  "Emmett"

------------------------------

Date: Thu,  4 Sep 97 09:14:15    
From: Steve Mace <steve@solwise.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: GPS recommendations 

I would definitely recommend that, which ever GPS model you get, you must e=
nsure that it has the PC output. For just =A399 you can get an excellent pi=
ece of PC software with full UK street maps and built in navigation. Of cou=
rse you also need a laptop PC in the vehicle but you can pick those up for =
only a few hundred quid now.
-------------------------------------
Name: Dr Steve Mace
E-mail: steve@solwise.demon.co.uk
www: http://www.demon.co.uk/solwise/
Tel: +44 1482 473899
Fax: +44 1482 472245
Date: 04/09/97
Time: 09:14:16
-------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: "John McMaster" <john@chiaroscuro.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 4 Sep 1997 11:25:57 +0000
Subject: 1 ton gearbox

Hi, I am writing this on behalf of a internetless friend in Dominica. 
 
He needs a better condition gearbox for his 6 cyl 1 ton SIII.  Does 
anyone have or know of a surplas one?  If so where and how much!

The alternative, as he runs 750s, would be to put the standard 
gearbox in. Are all the differences internal? I mean will the 
standard box just bolt onto engine, chassis and props with no 
modification?

cheers

john
______________________
John McMaster
john@chiaroscuro.co.uk

green/purple 110/Massey Ferguson

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