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Date: Tue, 02 Sep 1997 15:21:01 -0700
From: Dimitris Mitsopoulos <enad@ermis.acci.gr>
Subject: 1989 land rover 90

Does anybody know if I can install an automatic transmision to a 1989
land rover 90?

------------------------------

Date: 2 Sep 1997 09:12:14 -0400
From: "LT J Jackson" <lt_j_jackson@unixlink.uscga.edu>
Subject: Back on the road

Good to see that the digest is up and running, and just in time to herald the
rebirth of my
SIII:

Name:  Gertie (after Galloping Gertie, the old Tacoma Narrows bridge)
Weight:  You wouldn't want it to fall on you.
Length:  88"
Ethnicity:  Marine Blue
Parent:  Me, in labor for 4 grueling months.
Notable Characteristics:  New Galv Marsland frame, new bulkhead, brake pipes,
wheel cylinders, shocks, springs, paint, rear main seal, engine and trans.
mounts, weatherstripping, window tracks, wiring, a cool SIIA grille and
radiator panel (4 headlights, the center lights are high-beam only) and about
200 bucks worth of new fasteners.

This was a godawful project, but I'm glad that I did it.  And I'm really glad
that it's over, as are my wife and our neighbors (even though it's never
really over, as you all know too well).  

If anyone is considering a similar project, have faith and venture forth.  If
a mechanical Luddite like me can do a frameover and paint job in a one car
garage, anyone can.    

Jeff Jackson
Waterford, CT 
73 SIII 88" (Gertie)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 02 Sep 1997 14:16:35 +0100
From: Tom Stevenson <gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk>
Subject: SIII - Front Towing Point

Duncan wrote:
>I need to sort out a front towing point on my SWB SIII - I had thought of
>bolting a couple of hefty eye-bolts thro' the front of the front bumper,
>but have heard some horror stories about the bumper being torn off - anyone
>got any experience???

You can't go far wrong with the D-rings that bolt on top of the bumper.
Each ring uses the two existing bumper mounting bolts, and two further
bolts fixing the leading edge of the D-ring. You might have to drill these
latter holes. When fitted correctly, they are very strong, and transmit the
strain of towing directly to the chassis. A short rope or chain two legged
bridle (2m) between the  rings splits the strain equally between the two
chassis legs. They are a genuine LR part and are easy to get hold of.
Make sure your dumb irons are in good condition before fitting!

 
Cheers
Tom
_________________________________________________________________________
Thomas D. I. Stevenson                                 SNL Mussel Project
University Marine Biological Station, Millport, Isle of Cumbrae, Scotland
Tel: 01475 530581                            mailto:gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk
Fax: 01475 530601                        http://www.gla.ac.uk/Acad/Marine/

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 02 Sep 1997 08:55:00 -0400 (EDT)
From: MARGARET D FRECH 999-2955 <FRECHMD@CSOC-A1.EMAIL.DUPONT.COM>
Subject: UNSUBSCRIBE

I also cannot unsubscribe -- the message from majordomo is always 
the same -- not a member of the list -- yet I continue to receive 
mail!  Can someone help me unsubscribe?

Thanks,

------------------------------

From: Ian Otty <imo@kerridge.com>
Date: Tue, 02 Sep 97 14:35:02 BST
Subject: SER: Towing points for S111

I have used a pair of LR 'D' rings on the front of my SWB for many 
years, they are ideal for off road recovery as the load can be 
spread across both front dumb irons. They are not expensive to buy 
but you do need a pair of good shackles (3/4" dia or bigger).

A tow ball is not safe for off road recovery unless mounted on a 
horizontal plate as the tow rope may slip off under extreme 
situations. Even then I doubt the manufacturer has tested the 
towballs to withstand the shock loading involved in snatch recovery 
of a 1.5 ton LR stuck in mud!!!!

Ian Otty
SWB S111 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 02 Sep 1997 10:35:46 -0400
From: Mike Johnson <johnsonm@borg.com>
Subject: Re: Back on the road

> Jeff Jackson
> Waterford, CT
> 73 SIII 88" (Gertie)

  Congrats,  on the bouncing blue baby.  I would send you a cigar, BUT as you
know it's not safe to smoke around all those leaking fluids.

Mike

------------------------------

From: WJMcD@aol.com
Date: Tue, 2 Sep 1997 09:56:58 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Noises...

I've recently developed some rattling noises in either my gearbox or motor.
Tough to tell. It sounds like muted machine gun fire and happens at higher
rpms, especially just after I lay-off the accelerator.

I know I need to adjust the tappets, but this seems louder than that. I keep
having reoccuring nightmares of another endcap coming loose from a rod. For
those who don't remember... this is a Euro 2.6. It has about 70K and has not
been rebuilt.

Any ideas?

Bill McDonald

------------------------------

From: "Adamson, John G" <adamsojg@jmu.edu>
Subject: 3.5 or 3.9 Rover Engine Wanted
Date: Tue, 2 Sep 1997 10:18:09 -0500 (US Eastern Standard Time)

		

	I need a Rover V-8 that can be rebuilt.  It can be 
3.5 or 3.9.  I am located in Richmond, Va.  Any information 
would be appreciated.

-- 				JOHN
Adamson, John G
adamsojg@jmu.edu

------------------------------

SPAM


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Sep 1997 09:09:50 -0400
From: reynoldsg@tfn.com (Geoffrey Reynolds)
Subject: (Reminder) Boston Area Get Together

When: Wednesday, September 10th

Time: 7:30PM

If anyone wants to get together earlier, let me know and I'll be sure 
to be there (as early as 5PM).

Where: John Harvard's Brew House in Framingham

This restaurant received the most votes by far, so that's where we'll 
meet.

Directions (courtesy of Chris Browne):
     
>From 128 north or south:

Take the Mass pike west to exit 13 (about 6 miles) labeled "Natick 
Framingham Rt 30".  Toll is 30 cents.
     
After toll booth go right on rt 30 towards Framingham.  Through first 
light (landmark is a N!55@N dealer).  At next light (I'm pretty sure 
about this) turn left and JHBH is on the right.  REI is on the left.
     
For a new building its hidden behind some trees and not well marked or 
lit.  Parking all around the building both on Rt 30 and the Framingham 
Mall.
     
>From Route 9:

Framingham Mall backs on to Route 9 East, you just have to drive 
through the mall (Barnes & Noble, Bob Stores, We've just beaten the 
wiz (they closed down) etc to get to JHBH.

Please let me know if you'll be attending so I can try to make 
reservations for us at the restaurant.  If you want to go but won't 
know for sure till the last minute, let me know and I'll try to 
reserve some extra seats.

I can be reached through email at reynoldsg@tfn.com or by phone at:

(617) 856-1395 Work (8AM-4PM M-F)
(508) 663-0747 Home (till 10PM)

Jeff Reynolds
1995 Beluga Black Discovery
Rovers North Roof Rack
4 Hella Rallye 4000's
1 Hella Work Lamp

------------------------------

From: WJMcD@aol.com
Date: Tue, 2 Sep 1997 10:51:11 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Quieter now...

Okay. Three and a half quarts of oil later...it's quiet. S--t! Where does the
oil go? (I know Dave B., in my driveway). Seriously. I have no major leaks. I
check it once a week. Maybe when I changed the oil, I didn't allow for the
oil cooler.

Anyway, seems I will be replacing the rod bearings before the snow falls. I
sounds as if one is doinked. What an idiot I am!

BTW. When you add oil, the tappets become more quiet, as well!

Arghhhh!

Cheers 'n' Regards
Bill
69 109- "Beauty... what?" I said. "Beauty!"
66 MGB- "The Race Car" ready to dump a clutch
75 Honda CB400F Supersport- Beasty

------------------------------

From: AKBLACKLEY@aol.com
Date: Tue, 2 Sep 1997 11:26:24 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Web pages

Franz: I enjoyed your pages and printed myself copies of the bolt n thread
and spanner charts. Thanks.
"Brumml" looks great. What does the nickname mean? I had assumed it was
related to "Beau Brummel" a famous Victorian British dandy and bon vivant,
but perhaps its a German (Bavarian) name? Although your truck is British, and
looks great to me, it apears to be all "business" and not mere form. What a
deal too! At least somebody got a "peace dividend"!

PS I clicked on the Lucas powered counter and nothing happened! The problem
with virtual Lucas components is that you cant physicaly beat them into
submission, which occassionally works on the real item. Cheers. Andy Blackley

------------------------------

From: Michael R Fredette <mfredett@ptdcs2.intel.com>
Subject: Re: conversion to FORD 305
Date: Tue, 2 Sep 1997 09:08:05 -0700 (PDT)

> Rob,
> > Well I was working on installing a GM 3.0 engine into a IIA 109
> >However that has proved to be impossible.  I am now looking into 
> >using a FORD 305 engine but need help locating an adapter.  Ford 6
> >cylinders are installed in the UK but are the 305 also?
> A fellow in Portland, Oregon did this, in a Series I 86" no less!

Actually it's a Ser 1 107 pick-up, and that's Tim Cooper who loves BIG
V8s in his landies. He put a 470 Caddie engine in his little 88, after
extensive drive line beef ups. He machined extra carriers with BIG roller
bearings in the tranny and transfer case, bigger shafts, heavier diff gear
sets etc etc. He runs 36" TSL BOGGERS and can light all 4 of them up at 
will. He also fools around with suspensions, and came up with a dandy
LONG travel leaf spring setup for this 88 that beats the crap out of all
but the most modified of the coil sprung setups.

Rgds
Mike Fredette
Portland, Or.

BTW, a great Portland Field Meet this year. 7!!!! Dormobiles this year,
so many it's almost getting boring.

He made
> his own adapter.  I spoke with him and got the impression he'd be
> interested in doing adapters for others to use.  He has since done a big
> Cadillac V-8 in an 88 that he events some (entered in the last two
> Northwest Team Trophy Challenges).  I met him at the Portland leak two
> years ago but don't remember his name.  But Mike Slade of Portland is
> friends with him and can tell you how to contact him.  Mike's e-mail
> address is <Slade@imagina.com>
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 14 lines)]
> Hope this helps,
> Granny

------------------------------

From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Subject: RE: conversion to Left Hand Drive
Date: Tue, 2 Sep 1997 09:09:18 -0700

Don't forget having to back through the MacDonald's drive through 
window when ordering! :-)

Paul.

----------
From:  lopezba@atnet.at[SMTP:lopezba@atnet.at]
Sent:  Saturday, August 30, 1997 11:53 AM
Subject:  Re: conversion to Left Hand Drive

However, do you need to do all that? The only time LHD is of advantage 
on
the continent is when you are passing, and you would not do that a lot 
in a
IIA. Also, you could drink as much as you wanted as long as your 
passenger
stys reasonably sober - the police would probably always test your 
passenger.

------------------------------

From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Subject: RE: Series Rovers in California
Date: Tue, 2 Sep 1997 09:41:05 -0700

Hi Donald,

Have you seen this month's Land Rover Owner Int'l magazine? 
 Apparently, 150 tones of Series I parts have just surfaced in a 
warehouse in Britain.  Seems that the military had them stashed away. 
 Sounds like they have just about any part you could need. :-)

Paul Quin
61 Series II 88
Victoria, BC  Canada

----------
From:  Donald A. Put[SMTP:daput@pe.net]
Sent:  Monday, September 01, 1997 5:59 AM
Subject:  Series Rovers in California

2.)  Most of the rover catalogs I've received don't have a lot of
Series I parts.  Are there any places that specialize in early Series 
parts?

That's it for now.  Thanks in advance for any assistance/opinions.

don
daput@pe.net
Idyllwild Brewing Company
don  (daput@pe.net)

Idyllwild Brewing Company
Idyllwild, CA

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Sep 1997 11:04:37 -0700
From: jimallen@onlinecol.com (Jim Allen)
Subject: Re: 3.5 or 3.9 Rover Engine Wanted

>        I need a Rover V-8 that can be rebuilt.  It can be
>3.5 or 3.9.  I am located in Richmond, Va.  Any information
>would be appreciated.
>--                              JOHN
>Adamson, John G
>adamsojg@jmu.edu

 OK, here's what I have.

1991 era 3.9L block, with crank, rods & pistons. Has spun center main
bearing (Not badly in two machinists opinion) so it needs a line bore. It
had very few miles (1100) on it so bores are excellent. Price: $150. +
shipping (have crate)

1992 era 3.9L block, crank, rods, pistons. Block is in excellent condition
but unassembled. Lower end has very few miles. Heads are 1993 vintage but
have miles on them & are unassembled. Missing two intake valves (loaned to
an aquaintance to try to match up a stainless type & never returned). $550.
+ shipping (crate).

        The new, unused Hi-Po goodies include:

        Crane special grind cam (good for your stroker - a very flexible grind -
        good idle in a big displacement engine and offers excellant low end
with
        5500 upper usable power limit and a 6500rpm redline if you have the
        cojones)
                Duration @ .050-       210/214
                Valve Lift-            432/440"
                Av. Lobe Center        112 degrees
        Full set of lifters
        Full set of Crane alloy pushrods
        Full set of Crane steel retainers
        Full set of Crane double valve springs (you'll need the machnist to
cut
        the spring seats to fit them  - about $50 here.)
        Kenne-Bell oil pump kit w/ adjustable oil pressure relief valve
(you can
        dial in your ideal pressure)
        Kenne-Bell roller rocker set (adjustable), TRUE 1.6 ratio (stocks
        measure out at 1.5-1.55), includes divider spring eliminator kit)
        Teflon valve seals (don't use 'em unless you go to bronze guides)
        All parts are new and unused, still in their boxes (except the rockers,
        assembled one side for photos)

        Cloyes Roller timing chain.

        Would like to sell all the hi-po goodies in a package. I was asking
$1350. for all but will now take $1000. For an even $1100. I will throw in
the short block with the main bearing problem.

        Also for sale:

        16 very slightly used 3.9L pistons, 8.13-1CR. Misc grades,L,M,H -
$75. +
        shipping.

        Jim Allen
        jimallen@onlinecol.com

------------------------------

From: QROVER80@aol.com
Date: Tue, 2 Sep 1997 13:10:56 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Noises...

A few questions. How is the oil pressure in this motor? Does the oil pressure
light come on at low rpm when the engine is hot?
As you know the bottom end of the 2.6 is not the strongest. IF the oil
pressure is at ALL suspect or if it has been run low on oil I would
IMMEDIATELY pull the pan and look at the rod bearings. It is not that hard a
job and the peace of mind would be considerable.
BTW 70K is a LOT on 2.6 rod bearings.  I recommend replacement at 30k
intervals. :-(
Btw what happened to the 3.0 ?
Rgds Quintin Aspin

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 02 Sep 1997 15:52:12 -0400
From: Chris Stevens <chris_stevens@sba.com>
Subject: Gas Tank Repairing--88" Series IIa

Hey all,

I yanked the tank on the beast over the weekend and, much to my
surprise, discovered that it ain't in that bad of shape. Seems to be
leaking from around the seam or bracket. Any advice on getting this
thing repaired? I can't part with the $200 or so for a new one. I will
be welding on a new front support bracket on Saturday.

Thanks to all who e-mailed me advice.

Chris Stevens
Towson, Maryland
1969 Series IIa 88: SW

------------------------------

Date: 2 Sep 1997 16:03:17 -0400
From: "LT J Jackson" <lt_j_jackson@unixlink.uscga.edu>
Subject: Tune up help needed

Now that my frame is fixed, I've noticed that my engine really runs like crap,
er, poorly.
Funny, hadn't noticed this when I was in terror of the whole car collapsing in
a pile of rust during a hard turn.

The motor's a 2.25 gas with a Weber carb.  Here are the symptoms:  Starts
nicely, idles a while, dies after 30 seconds or so if unattended. 
Occasionally when slowing from speed it will backfire (freeway off-ramps). 
Needs to be revved a bit to stay running at stops (the old "wish I had three
feet" problem).    Sometimes when it dies at idle and I restart it the motor 
runs like there was never a problem.  Then the next time I start it, things
seem off kilter again.

Here's what's been done:  Carb cleaner (the spray kind).  New dist. cap,
points, ballast, coil, plugs.  I also leaned-out the carb a bit too get
through the emissions test.   

Any advice would be appreciated.

Jeff Jackson
Waterford, CT
73 SIII 88 (Gertie)

------------------------------

From: "Brian Cotton, +27 (0)83 290 2085" <Brian.Cotton@liapta.pta.lia.net>
Date: Tue, 2 Sep 1997 22:14:46 +0000
Subject: 50th Anniversary tour update

The 50th anniversary tour pages have been updated with the new route 
information and a new "List of Camps page"
The introductory map will be updated soon.

Cheers
Brian Cotton
South Africa

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Sep 1997 16:18:25 -0400 (EDT)
From: kelliott@intranet.ca (Keith Elliott)
Subject: Re: Tune up help needed

Hi Jeff...

Any chance the timing chain jummped a tooth or is loose? I had somewhat the
same symptoms and it turned out
being the chain which in my case eventually jumped enough teeth that I
couldn't even start the beast.

Keith
61 SII 88

>Here's what's been done:  Carb cleaner (the spray kind).  New dist. cap,
>points, ballast, coil, plugs.  I also leaned-out the carb a bit too get
>through the emissions test.   
>Any advice would be appreciated.
>Jeff Jackson
>Waterford, CT

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 14 lines)]
>Waterford, CT
>73 SIII 88 (Gertie)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Sep 1997 16:55:01 -0400 (EDT)
From: "William L. Leacock" <wleacock@pipeline.com>
Subject: V8 starting

Simon the symptons you  describe are typical of ballast resistor problems.
Which vehicle is the V* fitted to ? The RR has a ballast resistor feed wire
so a baallast resistor is not necessary at the coil. When staring with the
key the coil is fed directly from a terminal on the starter motor solenoid,
this ensures that the 9 volt  coil gets a good voltage after a;llowing for
the volt drop caused by the starter, then on release of the key the supply
is switched to the standrd voltage via the ballast wire or resistor. The
ballast resistor should get hot since it is dropping the normal 14 volts to
9 for the coil. If however it develops a fault then it may be dropping the
voltage too much. Normally they go open circuit, but since it is getting hot
then this is not the case.
 Check all the connections and do some voltmeter readings around the coil feed.
Bill Leacock	Limey in exile
89 RR; 67 - 109 and  early 88.

------------------------------

From: robot1@juno.com
Date: Tue, 2 Sep 1997 16:07:43 -0500
Subject: List is back!

I finally got my first lists in several weeks!!! Glad to have all you
back...

I've finally got my Rover paid for!!!

Here's my problem: I'll have to transport it from Indianapolis to Dyer,
IN. Anyone who knows of someone who can do this inexpensively please post
me SOON!!!! I need to get it out of the P.O.'s driveway this week!!!

Please write me privately and quickly!!!
or phone at 800-755-1028 x232 or ask for Mark Hardig between 8:00AM and
8:00 PM during the week, and between 8:00PM and 11:00 PM call at
219-322-6787.

Rover does run but not well, and can't be driven. Needs a rollback,
trailer, or whatever. I don't want to flat tow it. I have tentatively
arranged a rollback at 350.00 but I'd like to cut that price in half if I
could.

Mark Hardig		

P.S. Hello again, all! 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 02 Sep 1997 17:17:22 -0400
From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com>
Subject: Remove

extractor@impactmarketing.com wrote:

> Since you are doing business on the 'net, you know that properly
> targeting your advertising messages can be pretty tough.  And banner
> ads are still way too expensive
> Instead of paying for "impressions" to a general audience, wouldn't
> you rather know that you sent your message directly to the appropriate
> audience?

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 60 lines)]
> with the word, "Remove" in the subject heading, and Extractor PRO will
> automatically remove you from the list.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Sep 1997 17:32:16 -0400
From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Subject: Re: Tune up help needed

Funny, you mentioned that you replaced parts but said nothing about 
timing. Did you do a tune-up? Sounds like its out of adjustment.

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon,
'81 Honda Goldwing 1100 Standard:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Tue, 2 Sep 1997 17:09:04 -0400
Subject: Re: Tune up help needed

Re: Stumbles, stalls, writhes uncontrollably.....

Sounds like an ex-girlfriend of mine...8*) <ahem>

Think 2 words - vacuum leak.

You've got a nasty one somewhere - cracked manifold, intake or exhaust
manifold gasket gone bad or the like.

Get out the carb cleaner and start spraying around the gaskets. When you
hit a spot and it picks up, there it is....

Also, check the plumbing to your brake booster, the booster itself and all
of the various and sundry stuff running to the distributor and the like.
Rotted hoses can look good but leak like the Titanic.

               ajr

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Sep 1997 18:15:29 -0400 (EDT)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@nrn1.NRCan.gc.ca>
Subject: Rally in Nova Scotia, Canada 

---------- Forwarded message ----------

From: john cranfield

The east coast sends greetings to our illustrious Capital and invites
any L-R owners roaming in our area to a rally on the weekend of the 27
september (week after the British Invasion in Stowe, week before the
Mid-Atlantic Rally in Virginia)

For more information call (902) 765 4532, or (902) 883 9034, or e-mail
at <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>

-	Central Nova Scotia, somewhat near Halifax for those interested.

------------------------------

From: "Tom Dixon" <tomd@clear.net.nz>
Subject: Yorkshire club
Date: Wed, 3 Sep 1997 10:58:09 +1200

Hi, Looking for someone with e-mail who is involved with a Landrover club
in Yorkshire (England). Any info would be of great help.
Thanks.. Tom Dixon
79 Series 3 lwb ( in lot's of piece's)
tomd@clear.net.nz

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 02 Sep 1997 19:31:44 -0700
From: "M. Tompkins" <mmglass@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Rusting Gas Tank

HELP! 
I recently noticed that my gas tank is badly rusted.
Murphy's Law dictates it will start leaking in the middle
of the winter. I would like to deal with it now.

Reading previous postings I take it my options are to choose
from the following:

#1 - Buy a new one
#2 - Repair the old one by removing the bottom plate, removing the
     rust inside and out, applying a rust inhibitor, then coating
     the whole thing with an epoxy paint or use the Eastwood stuff.
#3 - Take the tank to a radiator repair shop or a boiler repair
     shop and be prepared to pay dearly.

Any other options I overlooked?

Any advice on choosing an option and what I should look out for?

Thanks in Advance,
Mike Tompkins
Owner of No Chance
DoD Program Manager
Chief Designer, M&M Stained Glass
mmglass@ix.netcom.com
http://www.netcom.com/~mmglass
mgpt@juno.com
mgpt@rocketmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Sep 1997 19:56:01 -0500 (CDT)
From: David Kurzman <kurzman@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Rusting Gas Tank

>HELP! 
>I recently noticed that my gas tank is badly rusted.
>Murphy's Law dictates it will start leaking in the middle
>of the winter. I would like to deal with it now.
>Reading previous postings I take it my options are to choose
>from the following:
>#1 - Buy a new one
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 17 lines)]
>     shop and be prepared to pay dearly.
>Any other options I overlooked?
Just don't buy an aftermarket stainless steel tank.Semi-nightmare story
available. Buy a gen. tank or get yours repaired by a pro. Don't take a 
chance with those fumes. I am super pissed about the stainless tank I just
bought for $275. Buy Genuine if you can. I can't believe after three
Land-Rovers and about 8 P-6's I still bought an aftermarket piece. BUT...
then I still can't believe I drink bheer on an empty stomach...I know it
saves money but..... Best, Pete in Va.....'66 IIA  88-Topless 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Sep 1997 21:18:15 -0400 (EDT)
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Mid-Atlantic Land Rover Rally

OK, gang, the Mid-Atlantic Rally, the largest gathering of the faithful on 
the continent this year, is a month or so away - October 3-5.  If you have 
received your registration form (I mailed out 400 two weeks ago), please 
return them ASAP.  If you haven't received one (or heard of the rally), read on.

The site is Penlan Farm in Buckingham County, VA, situated 2 miles west of 
US RT 15 on county route 671.  The 671 turn off is about 7 miles south of 
the US Rt 15 bridge over the James River.  There is plenty of room for 
camping on site with inns, motels or B&B's about 12+ miles away.  As the 
site is quite remote, there will be catered meals Saturday night and brunch 
on Sunday.

Competitions include the teeter-totter, slow race, blindfold obstacle course 
and vehicle judging (most versatile, peoples choice and most room for 
improvement).  Prizes will be awarded for each - as well as the greatest 
distance traveled (in a Rover, Dixon) - but the premier event is the 
Aluminium Man Triathlon, a competition that combines a mechanical task (tire 
change) with a UK-style "RTV" course and a pioneering task.  The trials 
course is a tight one through hill woodlands, but it has been driven by all 
Rovers except a 130; however, with the newly created bog hole, it going to 
be very difficult to finish.  (Mike's knobby-shod '66 88" has made it 
through four times, but it sticks D-90's quite well.) There's a Rover trivia 
quiz included just to make sure you exercise the grey matter as well.  There 
are some major prizes for the winners, and the event T-shirt will be a 
stunning *full color* design by Sand Toler.

Each event has a theme and honors a particular vehicle.  This year, it is 
"Elegance in the Rough" and features the Range Rover.  For Saturday night, 
there will be a 'creative black tie' affair under the big top: appetizers 
(bacon wrapped scallops, puff pastries, chicken kabobs, seafood stuffed 
mushrooms) followed by your choice of grilled ribeye steak or salmon.  A 
jazz band provides accompaniment.  We will be serving up three kegs from 
Legend (a micro in Richmond): porter, brown ale and an IPA.

Because the site is so remote, we need to now how many mouths were are going 
to feed PDQ.  Please fill out the following form and snail mail it back with 
you cheque ASAP.

Name____________________________________  Vehicle _________   Year ______

Address ________________________________     Phone Number _______________

City ____________________________    State ________   ZIP _______________

E-Mail __________________________

        I/we will be camping on site  Y  N

        I/we will make reservations at a motel/inn  Y  N

        I would like to compete in the Aluminium Man Triathlon  Y  N

        I will volunteer to be a trials course marshall  Y  N

                REGISTRATION FEE ($15/vehicle)          $______

                SATURDAY BANQUET ($20/person)           $______
                choose: ____ steak  ____ salmon

                SUNDAY BRUNCH, $12/person X ___ persons $______

                I've forgotten my ROAV dues, so here's
                  another $15                           $______

                And if I've done the math right....     $______ total

Please make the cheques payable to ROAV...and yes, if you are willing to 
drive down from Canada, we'll take the northern peso at par.

However, uninvited guests sometimes drop by.  Last year, Hurrican Fran 
showed up two weeks before and another visited Tuesday after the rally.  In 
the event of pending *catastrophic* weather call 757-423-4898 or the rally 
site 804-581-1331 or E-mail to lr88@aol.com.

If you simply must have a roof over your head, here are a few phone numbers:

Buckingham Lodge, a corporate retreat-type of place on the James River with 
        rooms from about $65. 804-286-2100.
Fork Union Motel.  Fork Union's finest (also: only) from $48. 804-842-3255.
Palmer Country Manor.  B&B about 30 min away; from $120. 800-253-4306.
Tranquility Farm 20 miles south. $55. 804-392-4456.
High Meadows Vineyard. Historic register B&B in Scottsville. 
        Antique-stuffed rooms from about $100. 804-286-2218.

We hope to see you there.  Cheers

      *---"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                  | 
      |     Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |
      |   "The oldest Rover-marque club in the Americas"   |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730    |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 757-622-7054 (Day) |
      |    757-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 757-622-7056    |
      |                                                    |
      *---1972 Series III 88"-----1996 Discovery SE-7(m)---*

------------------------------

From: BarrieWyLR@aol.com
Date: Tue, 2 Sep 1997 21:24:29 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Axle Seals help......

-You can get it off with the screw driver & hammer or get a hub socket to
fit.  All the land rover parts outlets will have one.  It will come in handy
when you put everything back together.

Be Happy Barrie

60 SII 88 Rugbeater

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Sep 1997 23:18:40 -0400 (EDT)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@nrn1.NRCan.gc.ca>
Subject: Re: Mid-Atlantic Land Rover Rally (fwd)

On Tue, 2 Sep 1997, Alexander P. Grice wrote:

> OK, gang, the Mid-Atlantic Rally, the largest gathering of the faithful on 
> the continent this year, is a month or so away - October 3-5.  If you have 

	Hear you take Northern Pesos at par!

> improvement).  Prizes will be awarded for each - as well as the greatest 
> distance traveled (in a Rover, Dixon) - 

	Yeah, yeah...  two days after a job change.  This could be
interesting...

> Rovers except a 130; however, with the newly created bog hole, it going to 
> be very difficult to finish.  

	Damn, gotta get a sump guard for the Saab... :-)

> We will be serving up three kegs from Legend (a micro in Richmond):
porter, brown ale and an IPA.

	Ho!  Seal of approval granted!

> Please make the cheques payable to ROAV...and yes, if you are willing to 
> drive down from Canada, we'll take the northern peso at par.

	Bonus!  Yeah!  We'll be there...

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 02 Sep 1997 22:01:44 -0700
From: Greg Moore <gmoore@island.net>
Subject: Re: Rusting Gas Tank

M. Tompkins wrote:

> I recently noticed that my gas tank is badly rusted.
> Any other options I overlooked?

I repaired one 8 yrs ago using epoxy resin and fiberglass cloth. It's
still got a gallon or two in it even though it's been sitting in the
back yard for a few years now. It's free BTW if anyone's in the
neighbourhood :-)

Cheers, Greg
Vancouver Island, B.C.

------------------------------

From: "T. F. Mills" <tomills@odin.cair.du.edu>
Date: Wed, 3 Sep 1997 00:33:53 +0000
Subject: (Fwd)  Song Identity 

> ---------- Forwarded message ----------

> For the past few weeks American television stations have been
> airing an ad for Land Rover vehicles which uses a children's choir
> singing what I think is an English folksong as background music. If
> anyone has seen it, can you identify the song? Thanks!

-----------------------------------------------
T.F. Mills
tomills@du.edu                 http://www.du.edu/~tomills
University of Denver Library, Denver, Colorado 80208, USA

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 3 Sep 1997 16:41:31 +1000
From: Paul Nash <paul@frcs.alt.za>
Subject: GPS recommendations

I've just had a rush of blood to the head, and am thinking of buying a GPS
unit, and want recommendations.

For once, money isn't the object.  Well, it is, but on a go/no-go basis,
rather than selecting the actual device to buy.  Hand-hand would, no doubt,
be useful in some situations (although I'm unlikely to use it to find my
car in a crowded car-park, and I _hate_ extra weight when I'm hiking), but
it'd basically be mounted in my Land Rover to tell me where I am in places
like the Kalahari and Simpson deserts (yes, I know that they're in
different continents, but I have a water-proof Landie :-)).

I don't know a whole lot about what these things do, other than tell me
where I am, how I got there, and where I've been.  A PC interface would be
essential, so that I can dump waypoints into my Mac.  Anything else that I
need to have?  Anything else that I need to know?  Any recommendations or
dissuasions?  Any good dealers in the Joburg area (I'll be there next week,
which is when I'll buy one _if_ I buy one)?

And, the most important of all, are they any use?  Is this a silly idea (I
was a boy scout once, and can find North with two sticks, a piece of moss
and a pocket-knife :-)), or are they essential once you get out of the city
centre?

	paul

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 03 Sep 1997 08:55:43 +0200
From: Jan Schokker <janjan@xs4all.nl>
Subject: Cuban recipe for brakefluid

Hello bushmecanics out there,

Two days ago BBC's Topgear was about the ways cubans keep their cars on the
road.
One of the things they don't have is brake fluid. The recipe is as follows:

1/2 litre of alcohol
4 spoonfuls of brown sugar
A good squirt of hair-shampooing (SP?)

You put the alcohol in a bottle, and add the sugar. Shake well for three
full minutes.
Add the shampooing. Shake until you think it is ready. Done!

You could be stuck in the desert without brake-fluid some day...

Landrover content:
We saw a glimpse of the Landrover that Fidel Castro once owned. Looked like
a series II softtop.

Cheers,
Jan.

------------------------------

From: lorettafitz@webtv.net (Loretta Fitzgerald)
Date: Tue, 2 Sep 1997 22:49:36 -0800
Subject: Land Rover.  

I am interested in obtaining some information on the 1997 Land Rover
SE7.  I live in Alaska, and the prices on all vehicles here are much
higher than if purchased in the continental United States.  Do you have
any information on a fair price to pay for one of these vehicles, and if
so, what dealership should I contact?  Also, since you are familiar with
Land Rovers, is this a good vehicle to purchase?  Thanks for your help!

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 03 Sep 1997 10:03:17 +0200
From: Jan Engborg <engborg@huslak-sandviken.se>
Subject: New Land Rover 98

Anybody who has more information on the new longer Discovery coming in
-98 ?
I read about in a swedish motor magazine just recently. Obviously itīs a
longer model,
also with many interior changes.
Are there any pictures?

...Jan

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 3 Sep 1997 10:41:11 +0200 (MET DST)
From: Terje Krogdahl <tekr@nextel.no>
Subject: Re: GPS recommendations

On Wed, 3 Sep 1997, Paul Nash wrote:
> I've just had a rush of blood to the head, and am thinking of buying a GPS
> unit, and want recommendations.

I've got a Garmin II+ which I'm very pleased with. Definitely hand-held,
triangular profile, which makes it sit very nicely on the dash (with a
bit of velcro), and is small enough for your jacket pocket.

Take a look at the various models on http://www.garmin.com

If you have access to news, join sci.geo.satellite-nav. Lots of
useful info.

> And, the most important of all, are they any use?  Is this a silly idea (I
> was a boy scout once, and can find North with two sticks, a piece of moss
> and a pocket-knife :-)), or are they essential once you get out of the city
> centre?

You need accurate, detailed maps. With those, navigation is a breeze.
You won't find it useful IN the city centre, as accuracy can be as low
as 100 metres, especially if building come between you and some of
the satellites.

Useful? If you go where people usually don't, yes. If (like me) you
are a gadget freak, definitely useful :-=

Terje Krogdahl
Norwegian Land Rover Club (http://www.land.rover.no/)
1972 SIII 88" 2.25 petrol

------------------------------

From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Intermediate shaft
Date: Wed, 3 Sep 97 9:46:37 BST

If the intermediate shaft was to accidentally come out a little (oh, 
about 3/8"), would this cause oil to flow from my gearbox into the transfer
case?

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR with a g/box that's suddenly a bit quieter!)

------------------------------

From: "Tom Dixon" <tomd@clear.net.nz>
Subject: Series 3 power steer
Date: Wed, 3 Sep 1997 21:25:21 +1200

Hi, I am currently rebuilding my 1979 series 3 lwb. I plan to fit a Holden
186 motor which is no great deal. What I would like is some info on fitting
a power steer unit, However I don't want to change to much, So if there is
any suggestions I would appreciate them.
Cheers.... Tom Dixon
zl2upg
79 series 3 lwb (in many piece's)
tomd@clear.net.nz

------------------------------

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