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Date: Mon, 1 Sep 1997 06:09:35 -0500 (EST)
From: David Scheidt <david@math.earlham.edu>
Subject: RE: Sump dents

On Mon, 1 Sep 1997, Andy Phillips wrote:

> no shards of metal from the inside of the pan floating around the system
> . . . paranoia might also suggest checking the alignment of everything
> in the area and scanning for new leaks.

I had planned to clean it out.  I would have thought that if there were an
alignment problem (like the crank hitting the pan or something) I would
hear it.  Suprisingly, it doesn't leak oil from the pan.

David
--------
David_Scheidt@math.earlham.edu

yip yip yip yap yap yak yap yip *BANG*  -- no terrier

------------------------------

From: oboskyr@mail.interquest.de
Date: Mon, 1 Sep 1997 13:27:28 +0000
Subject: (Fwd) unsubscribe problem
------- Forwarded Message Follows -------
> From:          "Reginald C. Obosky" <oboskyr@interquest.de>
> Subject:       unsubscribe problem

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 17 lines)]
> day. Thank you
> Reggie OBosky  (oboskyr@inerquest.de)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 01 Sep 1997 09:35:11 +0200
From: Ketil Oftedahl <Ketil.Oftedahl@robin.no>
Subject: Re: Winch

Tom Dixon wrote:

> Hello and greetings. First time I have tried using one of these mail lists
> so please be gentle me. I am looking for information on a hydraulic winch
> that is fitted to my lwb series 3. The markings on the case are "Land Rover
> MkII". so if anyone can help it  would be appreciate.
> Thanks, Tom Dixon
> tomd@clear.net.nz

Some time ago, I sent a similar request to the list (except that my car is a
S2a lwb station wagon).
The replies I got was :

- Series II workshop manual - the one that is in one volume - pages T28-T34 (I
have not been able to find a one-volume SII manual, my copy of the "original"
LR Ser 2/2a manual is in two volumes.)
- The Brooklands Books "Land Rover 2-2A-3 Owners Workshop Manual", optional
equipment section.

Later, I have bought some more manuals, and discovered that the Land Rover
2A/2B Owners Manual (not the shop manual) has a short section describing
operation of the winch, and recommended lubricants.
The Land Rover 2/2a/3 Optional Equipment Catalogue has exploded views of the
hydraulic pump and the winch, by the winch does not look like the "Mk II" one -
could it be a "Mk I"?

What I have not been able to figure out is the capacity of the hydraulic pump.
I plan to use it to power other hydraulic equipment, too, and would like/need
to know the max. pressure and output capacity of the pump.

Ketil Oftedahl
1970 S2a lwb station wagon

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Sep 1997 08:46:56 -0400
From: Michel Bertrand <mbertran@interlinx.qc.ca>
Subject: Re: Gearbox problems

Could be your gearshift lever that has a worn plastic ball... At the bottom
of the lever, there is a plastic ball that moves betwenn forks in order to
change the gears. If ths little piece of plastic is worn, the forks will not
be able to move as they are supposed to. Happened to me three weeks ago.
Remove the tunnel/transmission cover, and you will be able to see the
excessive play in the gearshift. Replacement is a four bolt job. 

Might be worth a look!!

Bonne chance!!
Michel Bertrand
						______
Rock Forest, Quebec, Canada, 		       /    __
					      /        \
1963 109 PU (Rudolph)	   		     | Lucas    |
1968 109 SW (in the works)		     |  Inside  |
1973 88 SW (21st century project)	      \        /
					       \______/

------------------------------

From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Mon, 1 Sep 1997 09:04:42 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Re Strange clutch problem

In a message dated 97-09-01 04:51:49 EDT, you write:

<< Nope, its the float that doesn't. Tried to remove it at the weekend, but
 nope, major dismantling was required (basically, the seat is in the way).
 I'll wait till the tank is empty, then I'll drop the tank. This acutally
 looks easier than removing the seat!
 Excuse to waxoyl it at the same time.
  >>

If you have a standard LR seat, just remove the cushion and unscrew the plate
over the seat box.  It's a whole lot easier than dropping the tank.

Nate

------------------------------

From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Mon, 1 Sep 1997 09:09:16 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Sump dents

In a message dated 97-09-01 06:08:43 EDT, you write:

<< If I do pull the pan, is there anything else that I should do at
 the same time (I don't suffer from shipfitter's syndrome, but...)
  >>

Might as well replace the spring and ball in the oil pump.  Once you're in
there, it is easy and seems to be the most common problem with the oil pump.

Nate

------------------------------

From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Re: Re Strange clutch problem
Date: Mon, 1 Sep 97 14:12:39 BST

> In a message dated 97-09-01 04:51:49 EDT, you write:
> << Nope, its the float that doesn't. Tried to remove it at the weekend, but
>  nope, major dismantling was required (basically, the seat is in the way).
>  I'll wait till the tank is empty, then I'll drop the tank. This acutally

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 15 lines)]
> If you have a standard LR seat, just remove the cushion and unscrew the plate
> over the seat box.  It's a whole lot easier than dropping the tank.

That's what I planned - and I was able to do on my left tank.
But its military, and the right seat is the adjustable variety
(the left isn't). The frame for the adjusting bit has lots of fiddle
screws and bolts (including a bolt, I don't actually have a spanner for!!).
Under the frame, is extra plate, so narrowing the rectangular hole. It is this
that is in the way of the screws that hold the sender in place.

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)

------------------------------

From: RykRover@aol.com
Date: Mon, 1 Sep 1997 09:18:32 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Hello DC/VA/MD Rover owners

Chris, 
The Disco owners on this list use their vehicles the way they were meant to
be used.
You will find very few suburban housewife taxis on this list. So you better
bring that misguided attitude down to earth, because as someone who has a
Disco & a D-90 
their offroad ability is almost as good as the D-90. If attitude is what you
dish , then maybe you should sell the LR and go back to the LC arena. If you
wish to lose the 
attitude we would love to meet ya.

Signed, Hip bonehead
             Rick

`63 SIIa 88''  (for sale)
`94 D-90
`96 Disco SD

Ps you missed a crab feast yesterday at one of the many LR fans in DC,MD,VA

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 01 Sep 1997 15:04:12 +0100
From: Duncan Phillips <dunk@ivanhoe.soc.staffs.ac.uk>
Subject: SIII - Front Towing Point 

Well the subject says it all really. 

I need to sort out a front towing point on my SWB SIII - I had thought of
bolting a couple of hefty eye-bolts thro' the front of the front bumper,
but have heard some horror stories about the bumper being torn off - anyone
got any experience???

I'm intending to use the towing point to be towed (either if I get stuck
off-road or if gods-forbid I break down on-road), rather than to haul boats
in and out of water etc.

Thanks in advance.

*******************************
Duncan Phillips
1980 SWB SIII 'Evie'
http://gawain.soc.staffs.ac.uk/~cmtdmp
*******************************

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 01 Sep 1997 10:25:23 -0700
From: "M. Tompkins" <mmglass@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: conversion to Left Hand Drive

I agree that it is not worth switching from right-hand
drive to left-hand drive.  I have been driving my right-
hand series vehicle in the States for 3 years.
There are only a few problems I have encountered doing
this. 
#1 and most important is staying on the right 
hand side of the road. Never has been much of a problem
for me and I spent over 9 years driving in Great Britian.
Parking lots sometimes still confuse me, but then everyone
seems confused in parking lots.
#2 is passing slower moving vehicles on 2 lane roads. First
the only thing I have encountered slower moving than my LR
are farm tractors and construction vehicles. It was only
in the last month were I ran into this situation. If you
have a passenger you trust then not a problem.
#3 toll booths are fun. Irrates the drivers behind me as
I set the brake, unbuckle and climb over to the passenger 
side to slide the window and pay, then get back to the 
driver's seat and buckle up, un-brake and drive off. When I 
drive on the Garden State in NJ I keep the passenger window
open, go for the exact change lane, have lots of quarters 
and dimes and shoot for the basket. Haven't missed yet, but
I know I will someday.

My funny right hand drive story. Last year coming back from
the Mid-Atlantic event on Saturday night. Had the whole
family in the LR
- the dogs in the back (I have a 109 SW) with my son, Josh 
- my wife, Mary, in the passenger seat
- me driving
I am driving in the second lane on a four lane highway, it
is dark and the wind is pretty strong, so I am moving along
at probably 55mph and fighting the wind from pushing me.
A Virginia State Police car pulls up behind me with his
lights and siren on. I pull over, and the offices both get
out one coming up the left side of the vehicle and the other
hanging back. My dogs, two corgis, are barking like mad.
Mary slides her window open and the officer says, "Ma'am
do you know you were weaving back there?"  I am already 
starting to giggle as Mary responds, "But I am not driving".
The officer has yet to realize his mistake and says "But you
were weaving" so Mary makes it clear to him and points to the
steering wheel and says "He's driving, not me". So the officer
walks around to my side, and is obviously not amused. Asked 
where I was coming from, if I had been drinking, etc. He made
me do the finger-to-nose test and recite the alphabet backwards.
What really is surprising is that I was at the Mid-Atlantic
all day and never even had a beer, go figure.

Cheers - Mike Tompkins
Owner of No Chance
DoD Program Manager
Chief Designer, M&M Stained Glass
Soccer Referee
mmglass@ix.netcom.com
http://www.netcom.com/~mmglass
mgpt@rocketmail.com
mgpt@juno.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 01 Sep 1997 15:41:36 +0000
From: Ian Stuart <Ian.Stuart@ed.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: SIII - Front Towing Point

Duncan Phillips wrote:
> I need to sort out a front towing point on my SWB SIII - I had thought of
> bolting a couple of hefty eye-bolts thro' the front of the front bumper,
> but have heard some horror stories about the bumper being torn off - anyone
> got any experience???
Yup, I've got a towball on the front of my 109...

> I'm intending to use the towing point to be towed (either if I get stuck
> off-road or if gods-forbid I break down on-road), rather than to haul boats
> in and out of water etc.
There are a couple of routes here - you can either mount a ball
vertically on the bumper, or position it leaning back (thus less likely
to lose the rope)

The former has the advantages of (1) simple to fit and (2) can be used
to move trailers/boats/caravans around.

The latter has the advantage of strenght and safety.

To use a ball on the front bumper:
	1) ensure that all four bumper/dumb-iron bolts are High-Tensile (they
             will have 8.8 or equiv. on the heads)
        2) ensure that there is a substansial spreader-plate behind the
bumper

To use the angled recovery-point system (not feaseable if you have a
winch :)
        1) weld a square-section bar between the dumb-irons (position it 
              about a foot from the radiator crossmember) and tilted so
the top
              surface is angled forwards at about a 30-degree slope.
        2) bolt the towball down through the new bar, with a good
spreader-plate
              below.

Always used high-tensile bolts with nylock style nuts for the towball.

-- 

     ----** Ian Stuart (Computing Officer)
    Medicine & Veterinary medicine Support Team,
    University Computing Services, 
    Edinburgh University. 
    Phone: +44 131 650 3027

Personal Web pages: <http://www.tardis.ed.ac.uk/~kiz/>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Sep 1997 10:51:46 -0400 (EDT)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@nrn1.NRCan.gc.ca>
Subject: Re: Hello DC/VA/MD Rover owners

On Sun, 31 Aug 1997, Christopher A. Glaves wrote:

> when you pass.  Hell, I'll go out of my way for even a glimpse of a rover.

	Central Virginia, Oct 3-5...  You will see lots of them.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 01 Sep 1997 17:25:29 +0200
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Subject: Birthday wishes to fellow LRO
[digester: Removing section of:  Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="------------4E43B40B6E278E352C027BAC" ]

My friend Malene has just returned to Iceland after a holiday in
Denmark, but due to the uncertainties of the major, she was unable to
unsubscribe during her 6 week absence. Whilst we were all compalining
about the major going ga-ga and forgetting to post to us, Malene's PC in
cieland was happily downloading lro postings, so that when she got home,
there were over 1500 postings to sort - this she has accomplished,
without resorting to the unsubscribe button.

As this is her 30th birthday (which is something of an occasion for
Danes) we should all wish her Happy Birthday.

Her e-mail address is malene@krokur.is

Send her a happy birthday e-mail folks! She is stranded up there in the
high north, seperated from her loved one - a 1973 series III called
Eskild, which is in safe keeping in my garage - I get frequent mails
saying "I'm missing my Land Rover!" so let's help her have a great
birthday eh?

Call this a "happy-flame" - I'll take the blame on this one!

yours roverly,

Adrian Redmond

---------------------------------------------------
CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
---------------------------------------------------
telephone (office)		    +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)		    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data                +45 86 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)		    +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)                  +45 40 54 22 66
mobile NMT			    +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail			     channel6@post2.tele.dk
HoTMaiL (www.e-mail)	channel6denmark@hotmail.com
---------------------------------------------------
--------------4E43B40B6E278E352C027BAC

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 01 Sep 1997 07:39:18 -1000
From: Faye and Peter Ogilvie <ogilvi@hgea.org>
Subject: Re: springs

	Thanks for the input. Advice seems to be 100% to stay with the stock
springs. Have heard from two people who have tried and gone back to stock
even with winch mounted.
	Have you heard of a reliable source of springs other than OEM.  I bought a
set from Tom, the old Atlantic British West Coast guy, a few years back.
Installed them two weeks ago and both were too tall. Can't seem to get hold
of him and have seen nothing on the net about him so assume he is no longer
in business. I am probably stuck with those defective springs, the price of
procrastination. The problem with ordering from Rover's North is that they
only ship UPS and its air to Hawaii. The freight will probably equal the
cost of the springs.
	Also, some keep raving about parabolic springs for the Santana. Apparently
ride is improved but have heard negatives on offroad articulation. Do you
have any input.
	Shocks are apparently stock and probably original. Since you can't bounce
the suspension to test for funtioning, how do you determine if they are
working properly. I have noticed no deterioration in ride quality or more
correctly, lack of ride quality. Will change them when I redo the springs
but curious how you would check them and if they are actually still
functioning after 27 years and unknown mileage over a 100,000.	
	Thankyou for your help. Stock springs are in my immediate future.
Aloha
Peter.

------------------------------

Subject: Sarting problem - 110 V8
Date: Mon, 1 Sep 97 20:03:15 +0100
From: Simon Ward-Hastelow <simon.wh@dial.pipex.com>

My V8 starts fine but as soon as I let go of the key it stops. I turn it 
again and it fires up but then stops again after letting the key go. I've 
checked all wires but cannot find any broken or loose ones, there's 
plenty of gas and battery is fully charged. It just will not keep going 
after initial fire-up.

Also the ballast resistor - next to the coil - gets very hot, I'm not 
sure if this is as a result of me trying to start it time after time or 
as part of another problem.

Can anyone help please

simon w-h
'85 110 V8

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 31 Aug 1997 15:44:51 -0500
From: car4doc <car4doc@concentric.net>
Subject: Re: Painting Frames, Cont'd

Brian,
 In the past I worked with a friend who retored cars.  He would wash the
Galvanised part with White vingar to clean the surface before painting.
Part of the way galvanise works is it has some oily surface coating. 
-- 
Rob Davis_chicago

------------------------------

From: "Donald A. Put" <daput@pe.net>
Date: Mon, 1 Sep 1997 12:59:05 +0000
Subject: Series Rovers in California

Hello all,

I'm new to the list and Land Rovers, but I've owned a various array 
of British cars over the past 25 years.  I spent many years as a 
diesel truck mechanic--specialized in gear work, diffs and 
trannies--and now I'm teaching creative writing in high school.  Got 
a bit tired of all the grease I guess.  Anyway,  I recently picked up an 
all-original, running '55 Series I (86" wheelbase) that I'm planning 
to restore.  It's been a So. California vehicle its whole life, so 
the frame is in perfect shape--no rust at all.  It was a Forest 
Service vehicle, so they mounted a PTO driven, 8000lb. Ramsey winch 
to the front.  It's a nice touch.  I repaired the needle and seat in 
the Solex and fixed the vacuum advance (replaced the diaphragm) so it 
runs pretty well right now.  I'm happy to have 
found this list and I appreciate all the fine contributors that I've 
seen so far.  

First, a contribution:

>From: Sean McLaughlin <dogsputnik@earthlink.net>

>What are the best steps to buying a Land Rover (SII, SIII) in
>California.  Are there some States that happened to be well stocked in
>used Rovers????

Check out the recycler at www.recycler.com.  I bought my LR from a 
neighbor up here (I live in the San Jacinto Mtns. in a small town 
called Idyllwild), but I found numerous rovers in the recycler at any 
given time.  There was a running  '55 in there a few weeks back for 
$1500.  I called the guy and got the impression he would've taken 
less for it.  There always seems to be a few Series II and IIIs in 
there as well.

Questions:

1.)  I'd like to keep my Series I as stock as possible, but I'm a bit 
concerned about parts availability for the engine.  I plan on running 
it until it dies, which could be a while as I don't put a lot of miles 
on cars up here, but I'm wondering if updating it to a later model 
engine/trans is the hot setup for the long run?  If so, any 
recommendations as to the running gear I should look for?

2.)  Most of the rover catalogs I've received don't have a lot of 
Series I parts.  Are there any places that specialize in early Series 
parts?

That's it for now.  Thanks in advance for any assistance/opinions.

don
daput@pe.net
Idyllwild Brewing Company
don  (daput@pe.net)

Idyllwild Brewing Company
Idyllwild, CA

------------------------------

From: JFisk1120@aol.com
Date: Mon, 1 Sep 1997 17:20:38 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Glued to the TV

In my marathon CNN watching this weekend,  they noted that Fayed's personal
chauffeur had left minutes before in a Range Rover as a decoy to lure the
photographers away from the Ritz Hotel.  Sadly, it did not work.

It's going to be a long week for the Brits.....lets remember them in our
thoughts and prayers.

Jan Fisk
Springfield, Missouri
USA

------------------------------

From: b.boehlers@olsy.dk (Bent Boehlers)
Subject: RE: Sarting problem - 110 V8
Date: Mon, 1 Sep 1997 23:35:47 +0200

You wrote:

My V8 starts fine but as soon as I let go of the key it stops. I turn it
again and it fires up but then stops again after letting the key go. I've
checked all wires but cannot find any broken or loose ones, there's
plenty of gas and battery is fully charged. It just will not keep going
after initial fire-up.

Also the ballast resistor - next to the coil - gets very hot, I'm not
sure if this is as a result of me trying to start it time after time or
as part of another problem.

Well known problem.

>From Your ignition key, the 12V goes to the ballast resistor, through that, 
and to the coil and then to the electronic box or the switch in the 
distributor. The ballast resistor is reducing the current in the coil. BUT 
when you activate the starter, the voltage from the battery is dropping to 
9-10V, and if this is also reduced in the ballastresistor there is not 
enough for the ignition. Therefore there is a wire fron the solenoide on 
the starter, sending the full voltage to the other side of the 
ballastresistor, so that the coil receives full voltage during start.

This function, with the volage fron the startersolenoide is OK, therefore 
the engine starts.
When You then releases the key, the starter solenoid will stop delivering 
the voltage, and the engine stops.

Take a voltmeter, messure on theside of the ballast resistor that have no 
connection with the coil, if you have the key in driving position there 
should be 11.5-12.5 V. If 0 (zero), follow the wire to the ignitionswitch, 
and messure in every connection, until you find about 12V. Reestablish the 
connection from here to the balast resistor.

I have had this several times, mostly after changing the sparkplugs, or 
cleaning them. Normaly because I by accident remove the little connector on 
the ballastresistor.

I hope this helps, or at least gives You some ideas to follow.

Happy Rovering
Bent

Bent Boehlers

bent@boehlers-dk.com

begin 600 WINMAIL.DAT

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Sep 1997 17:43:49 -0400 (EDT)
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Mid-Atlantic Rally

Ahhh, glad to have the digest back....

Just got back from Penlan Farm.  With a bit of help, we cut a new loop trail 
through the bottom lands at the rally site.  As the Ottawa gang has 
criticized us for not having enough mud, let me tell ya' folks, we got MUD. 
One of the newly created bogs has been dubbed the "boot sucker" as it'll do 
just that.  (It has been constructed so that with a few shovel full of dirt, 
the stream can be directed *through* the mud hole.) The other is on a 
sweeping turn that if you try to go wide to avoid the worst of it, you won't 
clear the gate at the end.  By creating a second loop within the first, the 
length of the trail has been almost doubled.

Cheers

      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is egendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                  | 
      |     Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |
      |   "The oldest Rover-marque club in the Americas"   |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730    |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 757-622-7054 (Day) |
      |    757-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 757-622-7056    |
      |                                                    |
      *---1972 Series III 88"-----1996 Discovery SE-7(m)---*

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 01 Sep 1997 20:34:22 -0500
From: car4doc <car4doc@concentric.net>
Subject: conversion to FORD 305

Hi All,
 Well I was working on installing a GM 3.0 engine into a IIA 109
However that has proved to be impossible.  I am now looking into 
using a FORD 305 engine but need help locating an adapter.  Ford 6
cylinders are installed in the UK but are the 305 also?
Thanks for any help or information.
REGARD, 
Rob Davis_chicago

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Sep 1997 22:26:59 -0400 (EDT)
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Brake woes

Ian Harper wrote:

>The vacuum guage goes from about 20 down to <5.

The diaphragm in the brake servo is shot.  It's dumping air into the 
manifold.  Unfortunately, the "major" service kit for the servo hasn't been 
available in the US since about '76.  Supposedly, the unit is 
non-serviceable, but the unit appears to come apart (if got one I've been 
meaning to do an autopsy on, but it's one of those "roun' tuits") and truck 
reapir places routinely overhaul similar servos.  Anybody done it?  Cheers

      *---"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                  | 
      |     Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |
      |   "The oldest Rover-marque club in the Americas"   |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730    |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 757-622-7054 (Day) |
      |    757-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 757-622-7056    |
      |                                                    |
      *---1972 Series III 88"-----1996 Discovery SE-7(m)---*

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 01 Sep 1997 23:07:19 -0400
From: "Christopher A. Glaves" <cglaves@erols.com>

Does anyone have info on LR 1996 Great Divide Expedition Devner to
Telluride or know where route and other info can be found?

Chris

Christopher A. Glaves

97 Land Rover Defender 90 #263
78 Toyota Land Crusiser FJ40
Come see it all at --> http://www.erols.com/cglaves/rover.html
The mods keep coming....

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 01 Sep 1997 21:33:46 -0700
From: Granville Pool <gpool@pacific.net>
Subject: Re: conversion to FORD 305

Rob,

> Well I was working on installing a GM 3.0 engine into a IIA 109
>However that has proved to be impossible.  I am now looking into 
>using a FORD 305 engine but need help locating an adapter.  Ford 6
>cylinders are installed in the UK but are the 305 also?

A fellow in Portland, Oregon did this, in a Series I 86" no less!  He made
his own adapter.  I spoke with him and got the impression he'd be
interested in doing adapters for others to use.  He has since done a big
Cadillac V-8 in an 88 that he events some (entered in the last two
Northwest Team Trophy Challenges).  I met him at the Portland leak two
years ago but don't remember his name.  But Mike Slade of Portland is
friends with him and can tell you how to contact him.  Mike's e-mail
address is <Slade@imagina.com>

Hope this helps,

Granny

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Sep 97 12:58:07 UT
From: "K. JOHN WOOD" <JWROVER@classic.msn.com>
Subject: All British-A Moment Of Silence

TO ALL IN THE LAND ROVER COMMUNITTY :

A MOMENT OF Silence for the Princess Diana is appropriate.

At the Oct. Meeting of the Solihull Society we will take a moment of silence 
as a Club.

Thanks for your Love of Britain.

K. John Wood 
Event Co- Solihull Society
British Citizen

------------------------------

From: Andy Phillips <AnPi@serviceteam.co.uk>
Subject: RE: 
Date: Tue, 2 Sep 1997 08:54:21 +0100

I seem to remember some stuff on the Land Rover Web pages
http://www.landrover.com if you haven't already tried them.

Andy.

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	Christopher A. Glaves [SMTP:cglaves@erols.com]
> Sent:	Tuesday, September 02, 1997 4:07 AM
> To:	lro@playground.sun.com
> Subject:	

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 22 lines)]
> The mods keep coming....
> -------------------------------------------------------------

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Date: Tue, 2 Sep 1997 04:34:04 -0400
From: Ken Basterfield <106511.123@compuserve.com>
Subject: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

Subject Priming Galvanised steel

New galvanizing is very active and will lift normal paint in no time.
Normally one can ask the galvanizor to "pasivate" the new zinc but if not=

leaving it outside to weather for some time will do some pasivation.
However, if you are in a hurry then the paint to use is "calcium plumbate=

primer" obviously containing calcium and lead, I've used it for years now=

and I,m still on the original gallon can! Follow after about 24 hours wit=
h
normal undercoat and topcoats.

Ken B, S11, S111, 90Tdi, Disco, ILikeLRProducts, Devon

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From: Franz Parzefall <franz@max.physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de>
Subject: new LR pics
Date: Tue, 2 Sep 1997 11:12:47 +0200 (MET DST)

Hello folks,
I've just scanned in some Land Rover pictures from my recent trip
to Scotland. Including one with chains. Some more will follow
in the next month or so.
Have a look at my webpage if you are interested. 

The Scouts among you may also be interested in some pictures about the 
building of a log hut with my scout group.

Please drop me a line if you have any comments.

cu later,
Franz
Franz Parzefall                franz@physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de
		   http://www.physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de/~franz
       _______
      [____|\_\==
      [_-__|__|_-]      Brumml, exmil. 1989 Land Rover 110 2.5D
 ___.._(0)..._.(0)__..-
                                  

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