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Date: Sun, 31 Aug 1997 09:27:33 +0000 From: Ian Harper/Donna-Claire McLeod <tantramar@golden.net> Subject: Distributors The digest seems to up and running again...(What did I DO with all that free time!!!!), so here's a submission that didn't make it..... The best way to fix a Land Rover, I am gradually finding out, is to have one that is in perfect running order, and then trade the bits that you think are giving you trouble with the one you are fixing!!!!!! I did this with my Distributor and it has cured a myriad of ailments, including smoking (the LR's, not mine) hesitation and the fact that I could never fine tune either the carb or the timing. Now that I know it's the dist, I can order a new one, and put the unit that I swapped back in my other one. One thing is still happening though, and I'm not sure which part to swap next....... When I come to a stop fast, foot off the gas, the revs go down to the point of almost stalling. My theory is that the servo, which uses the same vacuum from the intake manifold to do its work, is causing the advance on the distributor to act funny, (advancing or retarding I'm not sure which) hence the near stalling. The vacuum guage goes from about 20 down to <5. Anyone had a similar problem? I'm thinking that maybe the vacuum advance has to come off of the carb intake, rather than the manifold, but my Zenith has no place for this...... Cheers, Ian -- Ian Harper/Donna Claire McLeod http://www.golden.net/~tantramar Tantramar House Bed and Breakfast Stratford, Ontario Phone(519) 273-7771 Fax (519) 273-3993 ------------------------------[ <- Message 2 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970901 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 1997 16:45:53 +0100 From: Iwan Vosloo <"Iwan Vosloo"> Subject: Re: conversion to Left Hand Drive Frans, I forgot to add... sitting on the wrong side of a car is of course very confusing for hijackers and people who sell things at road crossings. (But then again, the guy who hijacks my car would have to be confused to start off with!) - Iwan Vosloo ( 1975 SIII 88" Diesel ) ------------------------------[ <- Message 3 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970901 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 1997 16:43:37 +0100 From: Iwan Vosloo <ivosloo@cs.up.ac.za> Subject: Re: conversion to Left Hand Drive (thanks to the people who have fixed the list...it was a pleasant surprise to see it again) Frans, I drive a left hand drive LR in a right-hand drive country -- so I have an analogous problem. I really think it's overkill to try and change it. I get along without hassles. If (if!) you want to pass somebody, you can always just look over them :-). The only REAL hassle is when you want to get in/out a parking garage or something similar where people assume you sit at a specific side of the car to get a ticket/press buttons or whatever. Here are the increasingly silly ways of dealing with this: If it rains, you put up your handbrake, slide over to the other side, open the window and there you go. If not, you can just put up the handbrake, get out and do whatever you need to outside the car (this is more time-consuming). OR, you can always drive through in reverse and confuse everybody behind (in front of) you. Seriously: it's nothing to worry about, you'll get used to it in a day. - Iwan Vosloo ( 1975 SIII 88" Diesel ) ------------------------------[ <- Message 4 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970901 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 1997 16:59:48 +0100 From: Iwan Vosloo <"Iwan Vosloo"> Subject: Series 3 gearbox mystery To all SIII gearbox specialists... For quite a while now I am having some trouble with my second gear. I don't think it's the synchromesh though. Here are the symptoms...maybe you can shed a little more light. When changing into second (down / up) it feels like the gearlever presses against something that's in the way (no grinding). Double-cluthing does not help. Two things do help though: If I shift up to where the lever gets stuck and then just move it to the right a little, it goes in without a problem. Also, I have seen that when I let the clutch out just a little bit when the thing gets stuck, it goes in without any hassles. Just today I have realised a third thing: If I shift the gearlever up and down between 1st and second with the car standing still and the clutch fully depressed and then drive, it's as though the whole problem goes almost completely away-- I can shift normally. This made my wonder whether it might not have anything to do with whatever in there prevents you from engaging first when the car is not completely still. I don't know anything about gearboxes, but I was rather hoping that if might be something to do with the linkage or detent springs ... something I could check out easily from the top of the box without taking it out completely. Any ideas would really be appreciated (I don't feel like rebuilding the box quite yet, I recon it has quite a bit of mileage left in it.) - Iwan Vosloo ( 1975 SIII 88" Diesel ) ------------------------------[ <- Message 5 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970901 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 1997 17:44:32 +0200 From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk> Subject: Re: Series 3 gearbox mystery [digester: Removing section of: Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="------------3032523DC02B7B19A3B9C9C1" ] Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Iwan Vosloo wrote: > To all SIII gearbox specialists... > For quite a while now I am having some trouble with my second gear. I [ truncated by list-digester (was 40 lines)] > box quite yet, I recon it has quite a bit of mileage left in it.) > - Iwan Vosloo > ( 1975 SIII 88" Diesel ) Check the detent spring on 1/2 - if the ball bearing is missing, the cross-locking which prevents two selector-rods moving at the same time will not work properly. I just did this on mine - worked wonders! good luck! -- Adrian Redmond --------------------------------------------------- CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK (Adrian Redmond) Foerlevvej 6 Mesing DK-8660 Skanderborg Denmark --------------------------------------------------- telephone (office) +45 86 57 22 66 telephone (home) +45 86 57 22 64 telefacsimile / data +45 76 57 24 46 mobile GSM (EFP unit) +45 40 74 75 64 mobile GSM (admin) +45 40 50 22 66 mobile NMT +45 30 86 75 66 e-mail channel6@post2.tele.dk HoTMaiL (www.e-mail) channel6denmark@hotmail.com --------------------------------------------------- --------------3032523DC02B7B19A3B9C9C1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Description: Card for Adrian Redmond Content-Disposition: attachment; filename="vcard.vcf" begin: vcard fn: Adrian Redmond n: Redmond;Adrian email;internet: channel6@post2.tele.dk x-mozilla-cpt: ;0 x-mozilla-html: FALSE end: vcard --------------3032523DC02B7B19A3B9C9C1-- ------------------------------[ <- Message 6 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970901 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 1997 19:02:35 +0200 From: lopezba@atnet.at Subject: Re: Priming & Painting Galvanised Frames Brian asked: >As some of you may remember, I'm in the middle of a frame-over on my '60 >Series II. After several months of careful budgeting and assembling all >the necessary new parts to build-up a rolling chassis, I am now ready to >prime and paint my new galvanised frame. Here's my question: what is the :best primer to used on these frames? I was favouring something nasty like >zinc chromate, though my friend who is doing the spraying for me has been >advising me to use "Variprime" which I think is a DuPont product. Whoever >makes this stuff, I'm certain that it contains phosphoric acid so that it >will "bite" into the galvanise. I'm a bit fearful of this type of prime :since I have heard rumours about it continue to eat into the metal for >years afterward if not properly cured. Any thoughts, advice and/or >experiences would be most appreciated. I can't help too much except to say that the fire brigade that owned my SI 107" did a very good job when they painted everything in sight red, including all the galvanized bits. They first used a white and comparatively thick white substance as a primer and then sprayed red on top of that. This white stuff is very hard to remove from the galvanized parts, but once it's gone the galvanizing looks like it came out of the factory three months ago. (I am using methyl dichloride stripper to remove the paint from the galvanized parts, and it will take me some more weekends to take the stuff off.) Sorry to say I don't know what the white primer is - they used it on the painted parts too, though. Regards Peter Hirsch Vienna, Austria Series One 107in Station Wagon (in bits and pieces) ------------------------------[ <- Message 7 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970901 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 1997 19:02:41 +0200 From: lopezba@atnet.at Subject: Re: Axle Seals help...... J. Sutcliffe wrote: >I recently blew my axle seals. I bought the parts advised on here. OK. >So I take off the brake drum, and get down to the part where there's an >axle stub sticking out and there's a lock washer and another nut which have >to wind off. Haynes is no help. The photos aren't even close. this is a :Light Weight of questionable vintage. Prob. a SIII. There's a lock nut >which I think I need to back off. Question. I'm assuming this is right >hand thread. Do I have to get the lock nut off with a screw driver before >applying pressure to the main nut? I'm reluctant to start beating on >stuff. Thanks. J.- Make sure that you clean out the axle breather, a non-operative breather is often a reason for blown seals. Anyway, if the S III axle is anything like the SI fully-floating axle (and I think it is) you need to bend back the lock tab and loosen the lock nut. If the job was done correctly this lock nut should be very tight and needs a lot of convincing - I had to use a wrench about three feet long to loosen it. The next nut, however, is just finger tight - don't overtighten it when assembling or the bearings will suffer. The play after fastening both the nuts should be about .15 mm. The thread is normal fine thread, i. e. "Righty-tighty, lefty - loosy". Good luck Peter Hirsch Vienna, Austria Series One 107in Station Wagon (in bits and pieces) ------------------------------[ <- Message 8 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970901 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: lndrvr@ldd.net (BRIAN WILLOUGHBY) Subject: Painting Frames, Cont'd Date: Sun, 31 Aug 1997 14:37:04 -0500 I have realised that I did not explain my reasoning for wanting to paint my galvanised frame. Well, the reason should be obvious: I am attempting to keep the appearance of my LR as original as possible. Hence, since its original frame was sprayed in black at Solihul some 37 years ago, I want this new frame to match, galvanised or not. Besides, seeing a silvery galvanised rear frame member just does not look right to me. So black the galvanised frame will be painted irrespective of its necessity or redundancy. Brian 1960 Land-Rover Series II 88" Station Wagon ------------------------------[ <- Message 9 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970901 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 1997 16:25:41 From: James Wolf <J.Wolf@worldnet.att.net> Subject: Archives Bill, check the other Bill's letter on the digest for today 8/31/97. You may want to have lots of sandwiches and beer on hand when you get into these archives, loads of great info. and time will fly by. Jim Wolf ------------------------------[ <- Message 10 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970901 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: 31 Aug 97 16:32:06 EDT From: Richard Maynard <101723.414@CompuServe.COM> Subject: Parabolic Springs Dear all, Has anyone any experience (or hearsay) about the parabolic springs advertised in LRO? As I understand it, Santana didn't switch to coil springs on their vehicles in the early 80s like Land Rover did, and put some money into developing more effective leaf springs. As my springs are all looking a bit tired I was considering replacing them with the parabolics (according to the LR workshop manual, a 109 Safari should be 2.07 metres high, but mine got onto the Lynx to Ireland as a low vehicle - less than 1.98m!) Tread Lightly, Rich. ------------------------------[ <- Message 11 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970901 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: 31 Aug 97 16:32:10 EDT From: Richard Maynard <101723.414@CompuServe.COM> Subject: Gearbox problems Dear all, I'm having a bit of bother with the gearbox on my series III 109, and having never delved inside a LR 'box before, I thought I'd seek some advice. The problem seems to be to do with selecting the gears; once in, all gears seem to work properly. The symptoms first appeared after a two hour run on the M1. First and second gears became increasingly hard to engage, sounding dry and 'clicky' (my wife's words). Eventually, first and second became impossible to get, and third and fourth very difficult, so I limped home in third, using low ratio to get moving and then changing up to high. The gearbox, transfer box, overdrive oil levels are fine (although they all leak a bit), as is the clutch fluid level (also a problem in the past). The overdrive does run a bit hot, and a rebuild is a mid term prospect, but I can't see that it's related. I don't have extensive workshop facilities at home (I live in a flat!), and the vehicle usually gets taken to my parents house for major surgery - is their anything to check before I attempt to drive home and remove the gearbox completely? Any suggestions gratefully received! Rich. 109 SIII Safari ------------------------------[ <- Message 12 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970901 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 01 Sep 1997 01:54:33 +0200 From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk> Subject: Re: Gearbox problems [digester: Removing section of: Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="------------AF24668689420EA87F165184" ] Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Richard Maynard wrote: > Dear all, > I'm having a bit of bother with the gearbox on my series III 109, and [ truncated by list-digester (was 41 lines)] > completely? > Any suggestions gratefully received! > Rich. 109 SIII Safari Check your wallet? :-) good luck! -- Adrian Redmond --------------------------------------------------- CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK (Adrian Redmond) Foerlevvej 6 Mesing DK-8660 Skanderborg Denmark --------------------------------------------------- telephone (office) +45 86 57 22 66 telephone (home) +45 86 57 22 64 telefacsimile / data +45 86 57 24 46 mobile GSM (EFP unit) +45 40 74 75 64 mobile GSM (admin) +45 40 54 22 66 mobile NMT +45 30 86 75 66 e-mail channel6@post2.tele.dk HoTMaiL (www.e-mail) channel6denmark@hotmail.com --------------------------------------------------- --------------AF24668689420EA87F165184 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Description: Card for Adrian Redmond Content-Disposition: attachment; filename="vcard.vcf" begin: vcard fn: Adrian Redmond n: Redmond;Adrian org: Channel 6 Television / Denmark adr: Foerlevvej 6;;Mesing;Skanderborg;Jutland;DK-8660;Denmark email;internet: channel6@post2.tele.dk title: Head of production tel;work: +45 86 57 22 66 tel;fax: +45 86 57 24 46 tel;home: +45 86 57 22 64 x-mozilla-cpt: ;0 x-mozilla-html: TRUE end: vcard --------------AF24668689420EA87F165184-- ------------------------------[ <- Message 13 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970901 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 1997 22:44:28 -0400 From: "Christopher A. Glaves" <cglaves@erols.com> Subject: Hello DC/VA/MD Rover owners Well I've had my D90 for almost a year now and I absolutely love it. I finally stepped up from a LC. Well I'm pretty familiar with LC circles in the area and my question is this --> Where are are the Rover owners hiding? I'd love to get together with some of y'all and talk LR. I know your out there somewhere. Not looking for these bonehead disco owners, we all know there are plenty of them around here, who won't acknowledge you when you pass. Hell, I'll go out of my way for even a glimpse of a rover. Like I told the dealer the other day when he noticed the dent in my wing, "I didn't but this thing to run up and down 495!" Just curious, Chris Christopher A. Glaves 97 Land Rover Defender 90 #263 78 Toyota Land Crusiser FJ40 Come see it all at --> http://www.erols.com/cglaves/rover.html The mods keep coming.... ------------------------------[ <- Message 14 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970901 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: g@ix.netcom.com (Gerald) Subject: LRs on streets in old European cirties and sightings in Spain Date: Mon, 01 Sep 1997 03:54:01 GMT During my short visit to Spain I rented a tiny Opel sedan. It was small enough to fit the small streets in old Cuenca, but one time my wife had to get out to spot me around a very tight corner. What do people with LRs do in these places? I saw a lot of LRs and Santana's in the more rural areas. There were some places where half the cars we saw were LR/Santanas. Plenty of RR's, Discovery's and Defender's too. -- Gerald g@ix.netcom.com ------------------------------[ <- Message 15 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970901 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden) Subject: Re: Re Strange clutch problem Date: Mon, 1 Sep 97 8:42:32 BST > Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR) > Wrote [ truncated by list-digester (was 7 lines)] > This is probably due to the failure of the voltage regulator, the little box > with two wires normally located on the back of the instrument pod. Nope, its the float that doesn't. Tried to remove it at the weekend, but nope, major dismantling was required (basically, the seat is in the way). I'll wait till the tank is empty, then I'll drop the tank. This acutally looks easier than removing the seat! Excuse to waxoyl it at the same time. Re. the clutch: Made the adjustment at the weekend. A bit of a faff, but yep, there was no play. Too early to say if the problem has gone (I'll have another big journey this Friday), but I only fluffed the clutch once on the way to work this morning (Starting off in 3rd... :-) ). This seems good, but the better performance is worrying (did this mean I was driving with the clutch slipping for the past few weeks?) > Bye the bye do you often venture into my neck of the woods ( Norfolk) Not that often. More often in Duxford/Cambridge. Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR) ------------------------------[ <- Message 16 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970901 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Franz Parzefall <franz@max.physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de>
Subject: Re: conversion to Left Hand Drive
Date: Mon, 1 Sep 1997 08:57:32 +0200 (MET DST)
Hi Frans,
| Has any ever performed or has had perform a
| conversion from right-hand drive to left-hand drive?
IMHO it's not worth the work. A friend of mine drives a RHD 109 SIII
and he has absolutely no problems with it. As other said, the only
more difficult thing is overtaking, but that is very rare in a Series
vehicle.
cu,
Franz
Franz Parzefall franz@physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de
http://www.physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de/~franz
_______
[____|\_\==
[_-__|__|_-] Brumml, exmil. 1989 Land Rover 110 2.5D
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]From: Franz Parzefall <franz@max.physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de> Subject: Re: LRs on streets in old European cirties and sightings in Spain Date: Mon, 1 Sep 1997 09:01:48 +0200 (MET DST) | wife had to get out to spot me around a very tight corner. What do | people with LRs do in these places? grab the highlift and move the house.... ;-) Franz Parzefall franz@physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de http://www.physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de/~franz ------------------------------[ <- Message 18 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970901 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden) Subject: Re: conversion to Left Hand Drive Date: Mon, 1 Sep 97 9:58:38 BST > Hi Frans, > | Has any ever performed or has had perform a [ truncated by list-digester (was 7 lines)] > more difficult thing is overtaking, but that is very rare in a Series > vehicle. Rare enough to get cheers from any talking cargo in the back! :-) There is the argument that you don't want to make it any more difficult than it already it is. Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR) ------------------------------[ <- Message 19 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970901 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 1997 18:10:56 -0400
Subject: Re: Gearbox problems
Re: "clicky" gears:
I'd more believe a clutch problem than a gearbox problem from this
description. From the sound of things, your gearbox isn't disengaging
properly, hence the fight to get it past the synchros every time.
I'd have a look at the clutch mechanism before I did anything to the box.
Check to make sure the sily thing's adjusted right, also make sure you
don't have a bad seal introducing air into the system ( a quick bleeding
will tell you that).
What makes me think "clutch" is the fact that it got worse as time went on
- g-boxes usually just fail if they're going to...
ajr
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From: Franz Parzefall <franz@max.physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de>
Subject: Re: conversion to Left Hand Drive
Date: Mon, 1 Sep 1997 12:03:31 +0200 (MET DST)
Richard writes:
| Rare enough to get cheers from any talking cargo in the back! :-)
Somehow I know this....
| There is the argument that you don't want to make it any more difficult
| than it already it is.
You've got a point here, but it's not that worse I think. Didn't have any
problem with it on my trip to Scotland this year. The bigger problem was
entering roundabouts, but we don't have to many of them on the continent.
cu later,
Franz
Franz Parzefall franz@physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de
http://www.physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de/~franz
_______
[____|\_\==
[_-__|__|_-] Brumml, exmil. 1989 Land Rover 110 2.5D
___.._(0)..._.(0)__..-
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]Date: Mon, 1 Sep 1997 05:05:58 -0500 (EST) From: David Scheidt <david@math.earlham.edu> Subject: Sump dents While off-road Saturday, I managed to slip the front wheel off of a rock and bashed a rather impressive dent into the sump. There don't seem to be any problems caused by this, except I broke the rock. Is it worth (and safe to try?) pulling the pan and pounding out the dents? I need to lubricate the driveway^W^W^W change the oil anyways, so that isn't an issue. If I do pull the pan, is there anything else that I should do at the same time (I don't suffer from shipfitter's syndrome, but...) David -------- David_Scheidt@math.earlham.edu 1966 SIIA 88", now with 0 staight body panels ------------------------------[ <- Message 22 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970901 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Andy Phillips <AnPi@serviceteam.co.uk> Subject: RE: Sump dents Date: Mon, 1 Sep 1997 11:36:14 +0100 Depending on the nature of the dents you might want to check there are no shards of metal from the inside of the pan floating around the system . . . paranoia might also suggest checking the alignment of everything in the area and scanning for new leaks. Andy. > -----Original Message----- > From: David Scheidt [SMTP:david@math.earlham.edu] [ truncated by list-digester (was 27 lines)] > David_Scheidt@math.earlham.edu > 1966 SIIA 88", now with 0 staight body panels ------------------------------[ <- Message 23 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970901 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
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