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1 car4doc [car4doc@concent14More clutch questions
2 dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.o16Re[2]: Removing an overdrive
3 Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lo20RE: Strange Noise
4 kelliott@intranet.ca (Ke24Re: Strange Clutch Problem
5 James Pappas [roverhead@23For Sale
6 Keith Mohlenhoff [krm@nj12Diesel exhust manifolds
7 "Adams, Bill" [badams@us13Re: Diesel exhust manifolds
8 M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (M13Re: Diesel exhust manifolds
9 Franz Parzefall [franz@m23Re: Diesel exhust manifolds
10 Chuque Henry [ChuqueH@is14Help Unsubscribing
11 David Russell [David_R@m15[not specified]
12 NADdMD@aol.com 17Re: Strange Clutch Problem
13 marsden@digicon-egr.co.u23Re: Strange Clutch Problem
14 Adrian Redmond [channel660Re: Diesel exhust manifolds
15 NADdMD@aol.com 31Whew! Passed Inspection
16 RykRover@aol.com 18Re: D-90 Still for sale
17 RykRover@aol.com 16Looking for a D-90
18 SPYDERS@aol.com 22Re: While brake cylinders are on topic...
19 rovah@agate.net 31River City Rally this weekend!
20 David Cockey [dcockey@ti26Re: More clutch questions


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Date: Wed, 27 Aug 1997 07:05:50 -0500
From: car4doc <car4doc@concentric.net>
Subject: More clutch questions

Hi All,
 This summer I replaced my engine (1971) with a low milage (1964) used
engine until I can rebuild the original engine.  I had to add to the
clutch linkage in order to get the clutch to be adjustable.  Everything
is working presently but I still wonder why the modification was needed.
 Any one have any ideas?  Every thing clutch, plate & trans parts were
from the 1971 engine.
Regards, 
Rob Davis_Chicago

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From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 97 07:34:00 EST
Subject: Re[2]: Removing an overdrive

>>There should be a nut on the main shaft holding the gears on. 

Can't get to those till the Overdrive's out. 

Did you disconnect all the linkage?
If yes then try turning the engine over on the fan or hand crank. not the 
starter.

later
Dave

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From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 1997 08:39:35 -0400
Subject: RE: Strange Noise

Checking an engine mount:

A big crowbar and some enthusiam, or a jack under the engine's the way I
usually go. If it separates, it's bad.

If you think it's soft just replace it - mounts are cheap.

Re: Resonance:

Most typically when Mr. Churchill starts to thrum at certain speeds I find
it's the exhaust system. Check the attachment of the downpipe to the
manifold, and check the clamps and mounts for problems.

                              ajr

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Date: Wed, 27 Aug 1997 08:44:27 -0400 (EDT)
From: kelliott@intranet.ca (Keith Elliott)
Subject: Re: Strange Clutch Problem

Hi all...

   I have had the same exact problem with my 61, after driving for a couple
of hours the clutch starts slipping and slowly catches up with the engine.
After it caught up it was ok. This has happened twice so far and I was
thinking that because my rear seal on my block is leaking like a sieve that
while driving long distances some oil would get on the clutch and cause it
to slip until it burnt itself off. I don't know if this is even possible but
it made sense at the time and I don't think that I will worry about it much
unless it starts happening more frequently.

Keith
1961 SII 88

>Richard Marsden wrote:
>> Clutch starts slipping. "Limp" to the services which are ideally
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 9 lines)]
>> change, I check it after each run - as air is removed,etc).
>> Check the peddle for looseness - extra travel, whatever you call it.

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From: James Pappas <roverhead@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: For Sale
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 1997 13:03:14 +0000

1) 10FG56 -1968 ex-SAS Desert Version "PINK PANTHER"

as featured in LRO magazine, featured in LRNA corporate video.
ex-Dunsfold museum. Purchased in 1996 and imported. Vehicle is untitled and
unregistered and unadvertised.
Complete specs. available. Original condition. fitted w/2@ Browning .30 cal.
1919A4 machine guns (non-firing). Very comprehensive vehicle kit including
radio. Resprayed prior shipment and actually MOT'd in UK!!! 

Please email me for details. Serious collector only will own this vehicle.

2) 1968 Series 2B 110 Forward Control 2.25 Diesel. Very nice condition.
Tropical panel. 3/4 Tilt. Original truck/engine. Drop side bed. Tan color. 

Jim Pappas
email: roverhead@worldnet.att.net
day: 617-431-0125

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Date: Wed, 27 Aug 1997 09:03:47 -0400
From: Keith Mohlenhoff <krm@nj.paradyne.com>
Subject: Diesel exhust manifolds

Hello;

Are the side exit and bottom exit exhust manifolds for the 2.25 diesels interchangeable?

It there a way to determine approximate data of engine manufacture?

Keith R. Mohlenhoff

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Date: Wed, 27 Aug 1997 9:11:11 -0400
From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Subject: Re: Diesel exhust manifolds

I may be way wrong, but I think that 2.25 diesels had only a side exit 
exhaust.

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon,
'81 Honda Goldwing 1100 Standard:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

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Date: Wed, 27 Aug 1997 14:25:52 +0000
From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Subject: Re: Diesel exhust manifolds

>I may be way wrong, but I think that 2.25 diesels had only a side exit
>exhaust.
>Bill Adams

You are,Bill.11A diesels had the side exit,S111 the bottom exit.
So much easier to change the front pipe on a 11A.No jacking necessary
Cheers
Mike Rooth

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From: Franz Parzefall <franz@max.physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de>
Subject: Re: Diesel exhust manifolds
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 1997 15:30:13 +0200 (MET DST)

Mike,
| You are,Bill.11A diesels had the side exit,S111 the bottom exit.
| So much easier to change the front pipe on a 11A.

I don't think you are completely right here. A friend has an early SIII
(1973, I think) and this has a side exit. However my 2.5D again has a 
bottom exit.

cu,
Franz
Franz Parzefall                franz@physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de
		   http://www.physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de/~franz
       _______
      [____|\_\==
      [_-__|__|_-]      Brumml, exmil. 1989 Land Rover 110 2.5D
 ___.._(0)..._.(0)__..-
                                  

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From: Chuque Henry <ChuqueH@isco.com>
Subject: Help Unsubscribing
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 1997 08:48:55 -0500

I tired the normal methods and it's not working.  Could someone please
help me out with this?  Thanks in advance.

-Q
"Where Did I Go Today?"
1970 Series IIa 88 Land Rover "Nanook"
1977 Series I Lotus Esprit (#118)
 

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Subject: sighting in MD
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 97 10:03:09 -0400
From: David Russell <David_R@mindspring.com>

Parked in front of the 7-11 on Knowles at Knowles and Connecticut: IIA 
SWB SW, mostly black with a light colored hood/bonnet. Looked like (from 
the fifth floor) really badly peeling paint. Two occupants (1 of each) 
with a spare and a petrol can in the back. Anybody recognize this truck?

David Russell
http://www.mindspring.com/~david_r
David_R@mindspring.com
1969 SIIA SWB (Pastel Green, 4-speed)
1997 SD (Oxford Blue, 5-speed)
1977 FJ40 (rust, 8-speed (hopefully still))

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From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 1997 11:08:21 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Strange Clutch Problem

In a message dated 97-08-27 09:38:20 EDT, you write:

<< PS: Now my fuel gauge is on the blink. Registered half, and was almost
zero
 on arriving to work (I filled it up 4 miles ago, and the tank is virtually
 full) >>

Ground problem.  Check the ground on the gauge.   This is a classic symptom
of poor grounding.

Nate

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From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Re: Strange Clutch Problem
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 97 16:14:46 BST

> In a message dated 97-08-27 09:38:20 EDT, you write:
> << PS: Now my fuel gauge is on the blink. Registered half, and was almost
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 9 lines)]
> Ground problem.  Check the ground on the gauge.   This is a classic symptom
> of poor grounding.

I went out this lunchtime to run through the "obvious" checks (including
adding fuel to the other tank). Found the problem within seconds.

The float doesn't.

It must have a very slow leak, and is now near-enough neutral
buoyancy. Hence, when I drove off, it rapidly dropped from half full to
near-empty and the tank was disturbed. It must have dropped from full to
half-full during the night.

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)

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Date: Wed, 27 Aug 1997 19:05:10 +0200
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Subject: Re: Diesel exhust manifolds
[digester: Removing section of:  Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="------------F698E689594F614FF77B6BCD" ]
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Keith Mohlenhoff wrote:
> Hello;
> Are the side exit and bottom exit exhust manifolds for the 2.25
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 10 lines)]
> It there a way to determine approximate data of engine manufacture?
> Keith R. Mohlenhoff

For the Series II at least - yes, but the front two exhaust tubes have
to be changes and re-routed - I would recommend changing from side to
bottom manifold, as this then routes the pipe in a direction which
causes much less rust under the chassis than with the side port version.
Of course the bottom version is more difficult to unbolt when rusted,
and the pipe gets in the way of gearbox and clutch slave service, but on
balance, having series III of both persuasions, I would prefer the
bottom port to the side.

Good luck!
-- 
Adrian Redmond

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From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 1997 14:33:24 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Whew!  Passed Inspection

Hi all,

The question arose earlier this week about Maryland inspection.  Having just
passed it this AM, I can say it contains some good and some ridiculous parts
to it.  The good news is I'm through and on the road with regular plates.

Important things that they'll dink you on (in Maryland at least) 
1. Any light passing through the floor or toewells. Patch 'em all or caulk
them.  Be sure to bring your manual to prove that the floors really are
bolted in.

2. Make sure there are side windows and a top on when you go.  They have to
inspect the glass (or plastic).  

3.  Clean up any heavily rusted areas, it doesn't matter whether they're
structurally significant or not.

4.  Get all the lights working on the outside.

5.  Adjust the brakes before you go in.  In my case, the brakes were fine and
they only inspected one drum and  shoes.

6.  Bring cookies.  Couldn't hurt.

Nate

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From: RykRover@aol.com
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 1997 16:48:48 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: D-90 Still for sale

Hey Barrie, 
    
I have a friend in the neighborhood that`s interested in a defender. I need
all info on your vehicle .  ie. miles , options, tops, color. etc. 

He can be reached at     SEncarnaci@aol.com
Hope there will be another Rover in my block, other than my three Rovers
                                                  RGDS, Rick

`63 SIIa
`94 D-90
`94 Disco

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From: RykRover@aol.com
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 1997 17:00:57 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Looking for a D-90

My neighbor is looking for a D-90 for a price between 19K to 26K.
any feedback will be taken seriously. 

he can be reached at SEncarnaci@aol.com

Thanks in advance,
                            Rick
`63 SIIa (for sale)
`94 D-90
`96 Disco

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From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 1997 17:31:14 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: While brake cylinders are on topic...

In a message dated 8/27/97 9:28:26 PM, you wrote:

>Its been my experience that when
>one cylinder goes, the whole rest of the system, including the master
>cylinder, is not far behind.

ack! with only 38,000 miles on it, I was hoping the rest of the sytem would
phase itself out in stages... another year or so before the front brakes,
then a brief pause before master cylinder.

Also, does anyone know if 110s' brakes are as peculiar to bleed as 109s'?
(you know, stories of people winching the front ends into trees a-la "The
Gods Must Be Crazy"/ using bits of wood between pedals and seat...)

pat
93  110

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From: rovah@agate.net
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 1997 18:41:26 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: River City Rally this weekend!

Just a note to let folks know that the DELRC is having it's first event,
The River City Rally, this weekend.  We've had a good response in terms of
people who are coming.  If you're interested in coming, please see our club
website for information.  I'm hoping the weather will be as good as it has
on other Rally days that I've attended! ;-)
     On an aside, I'm now the happy owner of a 1963 Unimog 404.1-S.  It's
in great shape, and I've already racked up over 700Km in less than five
days!

For information on the rally, you can also call me at 207-942-5152 or
207-947-2114

Have a great Labor Day Weekend(US)! :-)

John

John Cassidy
Bangor, Maine USA

The Downeast Land Rover Club, <http://www.agate.net/~rovah/>
X0 of the V(irtual)MFA 323th Cougars/Flying GSC's F/A-18 Hornet game

2 Wheels: Ducati M900, Velocette Thruxton, Moto Morini 350S
4 Wheels: 1995 Discovery, 1987 Range Rover-"Smedley," 1966 Series IIA 88",
1972 Series III 88"-"SWAMBO" 1963 Unimog 404.1-S

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Date: Wed, 27 Aug 1997 21:35:45 -0400
From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com>
Subject: Re: More clutch questions

car4doc wrote:

>  This summer I replaced my engine (1971) with a low milage (1964) used
> engine until I can rebuild the original engine.  I had to add to the
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 10 lines)]
>  Any one have any ideas?  Every thing clutch, plate & trans parts were
> from the 1971 engine.

I had this situation on a II with all new clutch components.  I looked
at the drawings in the workshop manual and parts book, and mounted the
slave cylinder on top of the bracket. The clutch wouldn't release and it
appeared that the linkage was too short. Eventual simple solution: the
various drawings are wrong (at least for a II, in particular Figs B1-32
and B1-35). The slave cylinder on a II mounts through the bracket.
Diagnosis confirmed by inspection of dirt & rust on the bracket. I don't
know what the correct position is for a IIA.

Any other known errors in the manuals?

Regards,
David Cockey

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