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msgSender linesSubject
1 kelliott@intranet.ca (Ke20Re: 2.25 Cranks
2 marsden@digicon-egr.co.u46Strange Clutch Problem
3 Michael R Fredette [mfre31Re: Strange Clutch Problem
4 gpool@pacific.net (Granv23Re: RR springs
5 "Said Geoffrey at MITTS"14Strange Noise
6 Faye and Peter Ogilvie [11Re: tire irons
7 "Zeigler, Christopher L.16Removing an overdrive
8 Michael Carradine [cs@cr21Re: tire irons
9 Easton Trevor [Trevor_Ea16Tire (Tyre) Irons
10 SPYDERS@aol.com 23While brake cylinders are on topic...
11 Solihull@aol.com 26Series Three Seat covers
12 Faye and Peter Ogilvie [35Re: While brake cylinders are on topic...
13 Rick Grant [rgrant@cadvi41Re: While brake cylinders are on topic...
14 Paul Quin [Paul_Quin@pml27Fuse Fuss
15 David Cockey [dcockey@ti21Re: 2.25 Cranks
16 Turpsters@aol.com 7unsubscribe
17 David Cockey [dcockey@ti44Re: Strange Clutch Problem
18 BarrieWyLR@aol.com 12Re: Removing an overdrive
19 Allan Smith [smitha@cand43Re: While brake cylinders are on topic...
20 Wayne Haight [whaight@ha30Engine noises and oil pressure - Koenig parts
21 pscales@blvl.igs.net (P.11Rear crossmember needed - Ontario
22 Greg Moore [gmoore@islan19Re: Removing an overdrive
23 BarrieWyLR@aol.com 10D-90 Still for sale
24 "Davies, Scott" [sdavies37RE: While brake cylinders are on topic...
25 "Davies, Scott" [sdavies26RE: Strange Noise
26 marsden@digicon-egr.co.u26Re: Strange Clutch Problem
27 "Andy Woodward" [azw@abe11rear brake drum removal


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Date: Tue, 26 Aug 1997 07:49:06 -0400 (EDT)
From: kelliott@intranet.ca (Keith Elliott)
Subject: Re: 2.25 Cranks

Hmmm... I didn't like hearing that :( I wonder if it would make a difference
because I have a late SII (1961) and an early SIIA (1963). Yes I know I am
grabbing at straws here but if I could save a few bucks it would be great.
The 61 SII seems to be the grey area when many things were changed.

Thanks Again

Keith
1961 SII 88

>main journals are the same size, but the bearing shells are different. I
>don't know if a SIIA/III crank and rods will work in a SII block with
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 11 lines)]
>Regards,
>David Cockey

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From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Strange Clutch Problem
Date: Tue, 26 Aug 97 16:33:17 BST

Had a strange clutch problem at the weekend.

First, the history:

The plates are 1yr old. When the 'box had its legendary rebuild, some odds
and ends were replaced (eg. clips). In the last couple of months, I've
replaced the slave, lower pipe, and master. If I'd known the master was to
start leaking weeks after the slave replacemenet, I think I'd have replaced
all the piping. The only original bits are the upper pipe, hose, and some 
of the actual mechanism (and the pedal of course!).
Bleeding the slave was a pain the first time, but wasn't so bad with the
master (I'd sussed the best way to do it).

Anyway, Friday was the first long run since the cylinders were done. I was
driving from Crawley to Duxford (under 100 miles). Dartford Tunnel was busy,
and meant the the climb out was slow + plenty of gear changes on the far
side.
Clutch starts slipping. "Limp" to the services which are ideally located.
Also, pedal loses pressure.
Check everything. Haven't lost any fluid (but I top it upto the brim).
Can't seen any leaks. The bleed nipple is dry. Check the oil (after a recent
change, I check it after each run - as air is removed,etc).
Check the peddle for looseness - extra travel, whatever you call it.

Pedal pressure seems okay.
Start off, everything is fine. Get to Duxford without any more problems,
although I am driving a bit slower.

Next day, driving from Duxford to Wells-next-the-Sea (similar distance,
slower roads). Weather still warm. Exactly the same, but at Kings Lynn,
on a traffic-light gyratory. This time I didn't stop (something about
a Ford employee being in the passenger seat), and the problem went away
within half a mile.

It seems to be a heat problem (no problems on the way back - cooler weather,
and I was driving slower), but clutch fluid shouldn't vapourise, should it?

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)
PS: The Ford Employee has a deposit on a 109" FFR - camo paint job complete
    with bullet holes. They *can* be converted! :-)

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From: Michael R Fredette <mfredett@ptdcs2.intel.com>
Subject: Re: Strange Clutch Problem
Date: Tue, 26 Aug 1997 08:51:33 -0700 (PDT)

 Pedal pressure seems okay.
 Start off, everything is fine. Get to Duxford without any more problems,
 although I am driving a bit slower.
 
 Next day, driving from Duxford to Wells-next-the-Sea (similar distance,
 slower roads). Weather still warm. Exactly the same, but at Kings Lynn,
 on a traffic-light gyratory. This time I didn't stop (something about
 a Ford employee being in the passenger seat), and the problem went away
 within half a mile.
 
 It seems to be a heat problem (no problems on the way back - cooler weather,
 and I was driving slower), but clutch fluid shouldn't vapourise, should it?
 
> Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)

Richard,

      You have an air bubble trapped in the system. The clutch is a bit trick to
      bleed and get all the air out. Try bleeding again. The bubble is small
      when cold, giving you enough pedal, but when hot, the bubble expands and
      you get the spongy feel.

      Mike Fredette
      d90
      101fc

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Date: Tue, 26 Aug 1997 10:22:36 -0700 (PDT)
From: gpool@pacific.net (Granville Pool)
Subject: Re: RR springs

Todd and Roberto,

>I am looking for a new rear elicidal spring to fit into my car, in the front
>transmission I haven't any problem,R.R. uses the double green springs and
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 6 lines)]
>known how recognise Rover's colour code. ( I remember a yellow-pink code.
>and red-red-pink code)

I sent the above message to a friend who's not on the LRO list and he replied:

>I have the color codes on my HD at home (it is off so I can't just "Lap
>Link" over to get them.

So, help is on the way!

Cheers,

Granny

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Date: Tue, 26 Aug 1997 20:23:25 +0100
From: "Said Geoffrey at MITTS" <Geoffrey.Said@magnet.mt>
Subject: Strange Noise

Lately I am hearing a strang resonance noise coming from the engine compartment.

The noise is not continouse but I hear it usually when I use engine brake.

I have checked for loose nuts and chassis problems but to no use.

Any suggestions???

Geff Sherman

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Date: Tue, 26 Aug 1997 08:26:49 -1000
From: Faye and Peter Ogilvie <ogilvi@hgea.org>
Subject: Re: tire irons

Asked this question a while back but got no response. Anyone with any
experience.

Want to be able to change my own tires, need advice on tire irons. There
are three types: straight, curved, and stepped. Are any better than others
or does it take a combination of the three to change a tire??

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From: "Zeigler, Christopher L." <zeiglecl@Maritz.com>
Subject: Removing an overdrive
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 1997 14:17:46 -0500

Because of an oil leak, I am trying to rebuild the transfer box on my
SIII.  The problem I am having is removing the overdrive.  I have
removed all of the nuts holding it onto the transfer box but the
overdrive will not come off.  It has moved about 1/2" from the transfer
box but will not budge any farther, nor will it go back on.  My
understanding is that there are bearings inside the shaft on the
overdrive.  Is there a possibility that these bearings could have
seized, and therefore it is stuck?  Has anyone had this type of problem
before?  Is there _any_ way to get the overdrive off without causing
anymore damage to it?  This is my first Land-Rover so go easy on me.

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Date: Tue, 26 Aug 1997 12:41:07 -0700
From: Michael Carradine <cs@crl.com>
Subject: Re: tire irons

At 08:26 AM 8/26/97, Faye and Peter Ogilvie <ogilvi@hgea.org> wrote:
:Want to be able to change my own tires, need advice on tire irons. There
:are three types: straight, curved, and stepped. Are any better than others
:or does it take a combination of the three to change a tire??

 My tire place recommends a pair of paddles and a mallet.  The mallet is
 to break the bead on the tire --other improvised devices would do, ie a
 jack.  The paddles are about 16-20" long rods with the end flattened out
 and bent at an angle --sort of like a long spoon with a flat scoop.  The
 set was offered to me for ~$50.

-Michael

 Michael Carradine     ___,_\__                      www.crl.com/~cs/rover
 Architect             [_______]           50-80, 72-88, 89-RR Land Rovers
 510-988-0900 _______.._(o)_.(o)__..o^^  POBox 494, Walnut Creek, CA 94597

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From: Easton Trevor <Trevor_Easton@dofasco.ca>
Subject: Tire (Tyre) Irons
Date: Tue, 26 Aug 1997 17:06:00 -0400

I use three pieces of 1x1/4 flat bar that have been bent slightly at one
end to fit under the bead and completly bent at the other to hook into
the centre hole of the wheel.
sort of like
             ***************
          *                         *
      *                             ******
If you'll excuse my lousy art.
To break the bead I just lower a good wheel, still on vehicle, onto the
side of the tyre.

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From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Tue, 26 Aug 1997 17:49:22 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: While brake cylinders are on topic...

I have a leaking rear brake cylinder and it will have to be replaced so I can
stop in less distance than it takes to cause a panic attack...

I've looked in the RN book and see replacement cylinders (RTC3627) costing
(how convenient) $109.00; also on the same page are rebuild kits for $18.20
(AEU2498). With my current run of good luck, I'm assuming I'll be needing to
buy a whole new wheel cylinder. (The dealership says it is standard procedure
to change both sides' wheel cylinders when one goes bad...  Should I then
also change every bulb or fuse when one goes out?! Or all tires when one goes
flat?)

What criteria do I use to determine if I can use the $18.20 kit to rebuild
the cylinder and be able to keep it as a spare? Is there a "toss it or keep
it" test for them?

pat
93  110

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From: Solihull@aol.com
Date: Tue, 26 Aug 1997 17:56:12 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Series Three Seat covers

I recently spoke to Phil at Wet Okole Hawaii, who is actually in Costa Mesa,
California. Saw their ad in 4WD&Sport Ute mag. After I told him how many
Series trucks were imported up to 1974, and that all Series IIIs and some
IIa's had seats like mine, he was interested in making some patterns. He
figures there's a market. Already does defenders and discos.
Trouble is, I need to send him some seats to copy, and I use mine everyday.
Can anyone help? Maybe a left coaster? I believe the new covers would be made
out of wet-suit material, and a set should go for about $200. 
Cheers!!
John Dillingham
near Canton, GA
KF4NAS     LROA #1095
73 s3 swb 25902676b DD "Pansy"
72 s3 swb 25900502a rusted, in suspended animation
Looking for a P5 project, well, OK, or a P6 or another SD1
Vintage Rover Service, since 1994, where we say:
Land Rovers for Agriculture!
Land Rovers for Industry!
Land Rovers for Recreation!
Land Rovers forever!! D.V.

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Date: Tue, 26 Aug 1997 12:11:09 -1000
From: Faye and Peter Ogilvie <ogilvi@hgea.org>
Subject: Re: While brake cylinders are on topic...

	I have rebuilt most of the cylinders in my series vehicles. You'll need to
buy a hone to clean up the bores.  Don't be too concerned about enlarging
the bores, important thing is that you get them smooth.  I had one with bad
corrosion pitting that I honed for an hour or more to get it smooth. Still
going strong after 7 years. In the same situation, you might think about a
new cylinder, however.
	The theory behind doing both sides of an axle at the same time is that the
newly repaired cylinder will accept more pressure and could result in a
blow out failure of the other cylinder.  Its been my experience that when
one cylinder goes, the whole rest of the system, including the master
cylinder, is not far behind.
	Talked with a shop about rebuilding cylinders and they won't touch them.
Reason, insurance/law suits. Don't want to run the risk of blame for a
brake failure if something goes wrong. It has nothing to do with
reliability of the rebuild. Puts someone, hopefully with deeper pockets, in
the line if something goes wrong.
	If you have the time, go for the rebuild kits. Easy to do, just be sure
the seals point in the right direction.
Aloha
Peter
70 '88
65 '109 pickup
65 '88 rusty junk

At 05:49 PM 8/26/97 -0400, you wrote:
>I have a leaking rear brake cylinder and it will have to be replaced so I can
>stop in less distance than it takes to cause a panic attack...
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 22 lines)]
>pat
>93  110

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Date: Tue, 26 Aug 1997 16:32:40 -0600
From: Rick Grant <rgrant@cadvision.com>
Subject: Re: While brake cylinders are on topic...

At 05:49 PM 26/08/97 -0400, SPYDERS@aol.com, wrote

>What criteria do I use to determine if I can use the $18.20 kit to rebuild
>the cylinder and be able to keep it as a spare? Is there a "toss it or keep
>it" test for them?

Having just been through this myself. . . .

        I bought two BL brand cylinders (10" drum) here in Calgary for 60 or
65 C$ each and they look exactly the same as the original Girlings but
without the name.  Complete with pistons seals etc of course.

        To my mind there are only two things that can go wrong with the
cylinders themselves necessitating replacement -- stripped bleed nipple and
scored cylinder walls. Otherwise the internal rebuild kit is the way to go.

        As for replacing all the fuses if one goes, well there is a strong
train of thought backing up the idea.  When I was flying commercially in the
arctic (very long time ago) it was pretty standard to replace duplicate or
mirror parts if one went wrong on the theory that if one has failed the
others might not be far behind.

        Because of the age of my little horror I try very much to follow the
same principle even if it does mean swapping out four or more identical
parts.  Obviously common sense comes into play and a puncture does not mean
trotting out to the rubber wheelwright's shop for five new tires but
changing all of the fuses (I only have two anyway) does make sense.

			Rick Grant

			1959, SII   "VORIZO"  

rgrant@cadvision.com	
www.cadvision.com/rgrant
Cobra Media Communications.  Calgary, Canada
Aboriginal and International Relief Issues

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From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Subject: Fuse Fuss
Date: Tue, 26 Aug 1997 15:47:06 -0700

Let's not forget that fuses are there as a protection device.  A 
fuse's sole purpose in life is to give its all to prevent electrical 
fires.  If a fuse blows, the problem lies elsewhere.  If one burns 
out, it is not a sign of wear but an indication that something is 
causing too much current to flow in the circuit that the fuse is 
protecting.

Remember the discussion about black dash boards?:-)

Paul.

<SNIP>

----------
Because of the age of my little horror I try very much to follow the
same principle even if it does mean swapping out four or more 
identical
parts.  Obviously common sense comes into play and a puncture does not 
mean
trotting out to the rubber wheelwright's shop for five new tires but
changing all of the fuses (I only have two anyway) does make sense.

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Date: Tue, 26 Aug 1997 19:33:51 -0400
From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com>
Subject: Re: 2.25 Cranks

Keith Elliott wrote:

> Hmmm... I didn't like hearing that :( I wonder if it would make a
> difference
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 7 lines)]
> great.
> The 61 SII seems to be the grey area when many things were changed.

The 61 SII is somewhat of a transition. But it doesn't make a
difference. If the engine number stamped on the machined pad at the
front of the block starts with a "1" and has nine digits it is a SII
block, crank and rods. If it starts with a "2" and has a suffix letter
it is a SIIA block, crank and rods.

Regards,
David Cockey

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From: Turpsters@aol.com
Date: Tue, 26 Aug 1997 19:43:44 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: unsubscribe

  unsubscribe turpsters@aol.com

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Date: Tue, 26 Aug 1997 19:54:18 -0400
From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com>
Subject: Re: Strange Clutch Problem

Richard Marsden wrote:

> Clutch starts slipping. "Limp" to the services which are ideally
> located.
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 9 lines)]
> change, I check it after each run - as air is removed,etc).
> Check the peddle for looseness - extra travel, whatever you call it.

Loss of clutch system fluid, etc. won't cause the clutch to start
slipping. Low fluid would just cause the hydraulic system to quit
working when trying to disengage the clutch.

One suggestion was:

>       You have an air bubble trapped in the system. The clutch is a
> bit trick to
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 7 lines)]
> expands and
>       you get the spongy feel.

I don't think it is that simple. Normally, when your foot is off the
clutch pedal and the master cylinder is fully returned, the cylinder is
connected to the resevoir. So expansion of an air bubble would not cause
pressure in the line, just movement of fluid into the reservoir.

However, if the push rod on the master cylinder is over-adjusted so that
the master cylinder can't fully return, pressure could build up in the
clutch line. Check for the appropriate clearance of 1/16" in the master
cylinder push rod, which should result in pedal movement of 5/16" the
master cylinder is engaged. This amount of clearance in the master
cylinder push rod is independent of the type of slave cylinder linkage
you have. The workshop manual has a more detailed description but note
that the adjustment refered to here is at the master cylinder end.

Likewise, an over-adjusted brake master cylinder push rod can result in
self applying brakes.

Regards,
David Cockey

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From: BarrieWyLR@aol.com
Date: Tue, 26 Aug 1997 21:13:19 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Removing an overdrive

There should be a nut on the main shaft holding the gears on.  If not ?????
Good luck
Barrie

94 D-90  For Sale
60 SII SWB "Rugbeater"

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Date: Tue, 26 Aug 1997 21:05:04 -0500
From: Allan Smith <smitha@candw.lc>
Subject: Re: While brake cylinders are on topic...

I have also been interested in this one for a while. A leak in a brake and clutch 
master and a clutch slave means an inexpensive change of seals. Why the recommendation 
to change the cylinders when the leak is in the lower end of the brake system? 

I first came across it in Germany a couple of years ago when I bought seals for the 
wheel cylinders for my Niva - the dealer said they always change the entire unit, and 
was very surprised that I wanted seals only. 

Two related items:

1. My clutch master and slave rubbers went within two years, and of course a couple of 
months apart to ensure two separate jobs. When I got to reading about the 
recommended changing of the brake fluid at 24 months I found a brief mention that 
early change of the clutch fluid would avoid early seal failure. Pity it wasn't 
located in the clutch section of Haynes!

2. Just last week I replaced the fluid in the brake system using the Eezibleed 
spare-tyre-pressure system that has been an occasional topic. If you ever have to 
bleed a clutch or brake system then there is no other way to go - a one-person 
operation that clears out the entire system from master to bleed nipple. 

As a last aside -  I have just heard that LR is now producing Teflon - coated swivel 
balls, and using a grease for the these, so leaking front swivels will be a thing of 
the past for some. 

On Tue, 26 Aug 1997, SPYDERS@aol.com wrote:

>I have a leaking rear brake cylinder and it will have to be replaced so I can
>stop in less distance than it takes to cause a panic attack...
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 7 lines)]
>(how convenient) $109.00; also on the same page are rebuild kits for $18.20
>(AEU2498). 
Allan Smith
Caribbean Natural Resources Institute
Vieux Fort
St. Lucia, West Indies.
Tel +(758) 454 6060
Fax +(758) 454 5188

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Date: 	Tue, 26 Aug 1997 12:18:09 -1000
From: Wayne Haight <whaight@hawaii.edu>
Subject: Engine noises and oil pressure - Koenig parts

Aloha,

I recently replaced my worn and noisy timing chain with the Reynolds
tensioner kit from RN. Now that my engine is so quiet I have started to
notice other sounds which might be related to oil pressure. On start-up
the tappets are noisy for about 2-3 seconds as the oil pressure comes
up. The gauge takes about 3 seconds to come up to 50 ft-lbs. Is this
normal? The gauge reads 60 lbs on the freeway, and about 47 at idle.
Also I have begun to hear a slight knocking sound at idle that goes away
at higher RPMs and cannot be heard at all during normal driving (except
while idling at stoplights)... main bearing? connecting rod bearing?  

Regarding Koenig winch parts ...I know these are rare as hen's teeth,
but does anyone have (and want to part with) the part from a Koenig
front crank-driven winch that connects the winch driveshaft to the
crankshaft pulley? 

Mahalo nui loa,

-- 
Wayne R. Haight
Senior Fisheries Research Specialist
Joint Institute for Marine and Atmospheric Research
2570 Dole Street
Honolulu, Hawaii 96822

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Date: Tue, 26 Aug 1997 22:09:18 -0400 (EDT)
From: pscales@blvl.igs.net (P.S.)
Subject: Rear crossmember needed - Ontario

I'm looking for a rear crossmember with 18" extensions (including rear
spring shackle mounts) for my 1959 Series II 88".  Preferably in Ontario or
western Quebec.  Has anyone got a spare one lying around??

Peter
Trenton, Ontario

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Date: Tue, 26 Aug 1997 19:10:00 -0700
From: Greg Moore <gmoore@island.net>
Subject: Re: Removing an overdrive

Zeigler, Christopher L. wrote:
> The problem I am having is removing the overdrive.  I have
> removed all of the nuts holding it onto the transfer box but the
> overdrive will not come off.  It has moved about 1/2" from the transfer
> box but will not budge any farther, nor will it go back on.

Put the gearbox in first and the t-case in neutral. Bump the engine a
few times with the starter while moving the O.D. lever to free things up
and the unit will likely slide off. 

The above is plaigarized from the fitting instructions supplied by
Superwinch. Good luck with it.

Cheers, Greg

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From: BarrieWyLR@aol.com
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 1997 00:31:40 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: D-90 Still for sale

94 D-90 still for sale.  Asking $23,500. 
call 307-742-9145 ( Wyo ) or E-mail

Barrie

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From: "Davies, Scott" <sdavies@monetpost.stdavids.ncr.com>
Subject: RE: While brake cylinders are on topic...
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 97 08:50:00 PDT

How much can shipping from the UK cost? Paddocks sell a 110 rear wheel 
cylinder for 12.63 UKP; at that price it probably isn't worth replacing the 
seals. A seal kit cost me about 9 UKP recently.

Scott Davies '85 110 2.5D HT
 ----------
From: SPYDERS
Subject: While brake cylinders are on topic...
Date: 26 August 1997 17:49

I have a leaking rear brake cylinder and it will have to be replaced so I 
can
stop in less distance than it takes to cause a panic attack...

I've looked in the RN book and see replacement cylinders (RTC3627) costing
(how convenient) $109.00; also on the same page are rebuild kits for $18.20
(AEU2498). With my current run of good luck, I'm assuming I'll be needing to
buy a whole new wheel cylinder. (The dealership says it is standard 
procedure
to change both sides' wheel cylinders when one goes bad...  Should I then
also change every bulb or fuse when one goes out?! Or all tires when one 
goes
flat?)

What criteria do I use to determine if I can use the $18.20 kit to rebuild
the cylinder and be able to keep it as a spare? Is there a "toss it or keep
it" test for them?

pat
93  110

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From: "Davies, Scott" <sdavies@monetpost.stdavids.ncr.com>
Subject: RE: Strange Noise
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 97 08:52:00 PDT

I'm hoping it might be engine or gearbox mounts as I'm hearing a similar 
strange noise; anyone know the best way to check an engine mount?

Scott Davies '85 110 2.5D HT
 ----------
From: Said Geoffrey at MITTS
Subject: Strange Noise
Date: 26 August 1997 20:23

Lately I am hearing a strang resonance noise coming from the engine
compartment.

The noise is not continouse but I hear it usually when I use engine brake.

I have checked for loose nuts and chassis problems but to no use.

Any suggestions???

Geff Sherman

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From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Re: Strange Clutch Problem
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 97 10:01:11 BST

> >       You have an air bubble trapped in the system. The clutch is a
> > bit trick to
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> Likewise, an over-adjusted brake master cylinder push rod can result in
> self applying brakes.

Thanks all for the replies - it sounds like the push rod needs adjusting,
in-particular some play should be added. Alas, I won'tbe able to do this
until tomorrow, but I'll tell you all what I find!

Not sure why the problem appeared after a lot of driving, then disappeared
minutes later.

Vince (the guy from Ford) thought it might be a small bubble or even a little
water, although I'm not sure how I could have got water into the system.

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)
PS: Now my fuel gauge is on the blink. Registered half, and was almost zero
on arriving to work (I filled it up 4 miles ago, and the tank is virtually
full)

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From: "Andy Woodward" <azw@aber.ac.uk>
Date: Wed, 27 Aug 1997 11:06:01 +0000
Subject: rear brake drum removal

>8mm, but the removal thread is a bit larger and definitely smaller
>than 10mm. I'd guess at UNC3/8-16. Anyone who knows better? Nonmetric

This sounds very familiar from when I had to blag one from our 
workshop.

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