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From: Easton Trevor <Trevor_Easton@dofasco.ca>
Subject: Score one for Lucas
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 1997 07:58:00 -0400

We often whine about Joe Lucas and unjustifiably blame him for our
troubles. This weekend comes an example from the opposition, sent as
stimulus for you all to tell your tales about ducellier, magnetti
marelli, bosch etc.

Bosch, the epitome of teutonic execellence?
Last week I replaced the aging contact points on our VW Camper with a
set of new genuine part Bosch points. The transformation was wonderful
with a correctly gapped and timed ignition adding a new spark (ouch) of
life to the old girl. That is until this Sunday when she gave a short
sharp backfire and died leaving Richard to coast to the side of the
highway and call for help. Not to far from home, so Miss Golightly leapt
into action with tools and tow rope, and after a quick look to see if it
was something obvious the camper was soon in tow and shortly thereafter
back in our driveway. A more thorough investigation revealed the source
of the problem. The contact from the moving side of the points had
fallen right off causing a drastic change in the gap and timing. So much
for German quality. The old points were cleaned and refitted and all was
well again. As usual it's the 90cent part that gets you. Gelandewagens
anyone?

------------------------------

From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 1997 10:33:57 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: BernzOmatic Tip

Hi all,

For those of you thinking of using a BernzOmatic type system for light
brazing, I would suggest the MAPP gas over propane.  I was having trouble
getting my work hot enough for the rods to adhere but the MAPP gas seems to
be hotter and made a huge difference.

Nate

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Aug 1997 09:40:21 -0500 (EST)
From: David Scheidt <david@math.earlham.edu>
Subject: Re: BernzOmatic Tip

On Mon, 25 Aug 1997 NADdMD@aol.com wrote:

> Hi all,
> For those of you thinking of using a BernzOmatic type system for light
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 9 lines)]
> be hotter and made a huge difference.
> Nate

MAPP gas also seems to do a better job of losening seized bolts and the
like.  (Not that I have any of these on my Land-Rover or anything...)

David

> Hi all,

--------
David_Scheidt@math.earlham.edu

yip yip yip yap yap yak yap yip *BANG*  -- no terrier

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Aug 1997 11:12:25 -0400 (EDT)
From: kelliott@intranet.ca (Keith Elliott)
Subject: 2.25 Cranks

Hi...

   After reading the posts from David and John I am wondering if what I was
planning to do is possible... I was going to pull the crank and bearings out
of a IIA 2.25 and put them in my II 2.25 block. Will this work? Are the
cranks the same?

Thanks
Keith

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Aug 1997 17:33:16 -0700
From: Frans Diepstraten <frd@wirehub.nl>
Subject: Re: Dutch doubts - (was: Trip report (of visit to dealer))

Adrian Redmond wrote:

> If the dealer is showing you a wreck, but offering a reconditioned
> vehicle - then ask to see a reconditioned vehicle. I don't know about

I saw one, from the outside, freshly painted. We talked about welding new 
outriggers etc. onto the frame. At that time he would have the frame 
completely exposed yet he didn't usually treat the middle part. That made us 
wonder about the quality of the rest of the work. Everybody can smack on some 
paint and put in a few seats, but it is much harder to judge what they did 
underneath the surface.

> decide to buy. Chances are, if the only showroom he has is a barn full
> of rusted chassis and eroded aluminium, then their reconditioning
> operation is not that big, and their experience may be similarly
> limited.

There were definitely more wrecks than reconditioned vehicles.

> If you do decide to buy in the way this guy proposes, get an agreement
> in writing covering - what work will be done, what parts will be
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 7 lines)]
> it does not cost you anything. Make it a condition that the vehicle
> passes the dutch inspection tests.

Good advice!

> Chassis and firewall
> Engine
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 7 lines)]
> then you have a good car, and everything else can be done in your own
> workshop or driveway, one bit at a time. A damaged body cvan be rebuilt

Some parts maybe difficult to judge if you can't drive the car because it is 
not allowed on public roads, but I see your point.

> And I wouldn't rule out a Series III - I have three of them (1972, 1976,
> 1979) and they are a lot of fun.

Wanna sell the '72 ;-) ;-) ?

Thanks for the reply.

Frans

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Aug 1997 17:42:00 -0700
From: Frans Diepstraten <frd@wirehub.nl>
Subject: Re: Trip report (of visit to dealer)

lopezba@atnet.at wrote:

> Dear all, Frans from NL told us about his problems finding a Land-Rover. 
> Let
> me say that I think the prices quoted are unrealistic. In the UK, 
> reasonable
> IIA's go for between 1,500 and 2,500 GBP. Since most European countries

Funny you say that, I just got off the website of AVON 4x4 (check out the 
links page of the RoverWeb) giving a number of quotes in that order of 
magnitude.

> special rules for importing cars that are older than 20 or 25 years, and
> both the Netherlands and the UK are EU members, importing a car from the UK
> should not be a problem, and that determines the price in the NL. So a IIA

Might even be a nice weekend out: take the night boat across the North Sea 
and simply drive her back the other day!

> Just for comparison - one of my colleagues bought an S III Diesel that is 
>in
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 6 lines)]
> needs some prettying up.
> Good luck with the search, and don't rush into anything!

Hmmm. This dealer gets all his cars from Switzerland. Have Land Rovers been 
that popular in the Alp countries or is this just coincidence?

Thanks for the advice and the quotes. I'll keep them in mind.

In the mean time I'll just listen in on your (LRO-readers) conversation and 
try to pick up the tips I need once I _do_ find a decent one.

Frans

------------------------------

From: Michael R Fredette <mfredett@ptdcs2.intel.com>
Subject: Fuel tank repair
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 1997 09:47:24 -0700 (PDT)

  Was talking with Trevor Smith, a fellow 101 owner up in Vancouver BC, about
  repairing leaking fuel tanks. He told a tale of a process called RENEW that many
  in Canada apparently use with good success. The process involves stripping, 
  etching any rust away, resoldering seams, sealing the inside, and then coating
  the outside with a thick layer of rubber or plastic, for a never worry about 
  it again type repair. Has anyone in the US heard of this or had it done? If so,
  where and how long did it take and how much $ did it run. Rgds

  Mike Fredette
  POrtland Oregon
  101FC
  D90

------------------------------

From: Brian Tuffs <btuffs@norcen.com>
Subject: Rochesters
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 1997 11:01:37 -0600

Folks,
	With ~1000km on the rebuilt engine things are purring along nicely. My
only problem is the carb (old Zenith). It has now been rebuilt 2x and it
seems impossible to set the 'idle mixture' lean enough to get a steady
idle @ ~ 850 rpm.
	So.... my thoughts turn to a new carb. and most likely the single bbl
Rochester which I can buy here for ~$110 CDN. Has anybody fitted one of
these to a 2.25l, is a straight swap or do I need a different adapter
plate? What about optimum settings for the L/Rover. I have the issue of
LRO with Jim Allens info. which is definately interesting.
	Hope there are some answers out there.....?

Thanks in advance,
Brian Tuffs ('66 SWB "Blue" - now only in colour)

------------------------------

From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Subject: RE: Fuel tank repair
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 1997 10:01:18 -0700

We did this the gas tank from a friends BMW 2002tii a few years ago. 
 The tank was completely rusted out when we pulled it.  It came back 
looking great and we haven't had a problem since.

Paul Quin
1961 Series II 88
Victoria, BC  Canada

----------
From:  Michael R Fredette[SMTP:mfredett@ptdcs2.intel.com]
Sent:  Monday, August 25, 1997 9:47 AM
Subject:  Fuel tank repair

  Was talking with Trevor Smith, a fellow 101 owner up in Vancouver 
BC, about
  repairing leaking fuel tanks. He told a tale of a process called 
RENEW that many
  in Canada apparently use with good success. The process involves 
stripping,
  etching any rust away, resoldering seams, sealing the inside, and 
then coating
  the outside with a thick layer of rubber or plastic, for a never 
worry about
  it again type repair. Has anyone in the US heard of this or had it 
done? If so,
  where and how long did it take and how much $ did it run. Rgds

------------------------------

From: Michael R Fredette <mfredett@ptdcs2.intel.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel tank repair
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 1997 10:12:05 -0700 (PDT)

> We did this the gas tank from a friends BMW 2002tii a few years ago. 
>  The tank was completely rusted out when we pulled it.  It came back 
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 24 lines)]
> done? If so,
>   where and how long did it take and how much $ did it run. Rgds
> __________________________________

Ok, but where did you send it? Victoria BC doesn't help much here in the 
US.

Mike
> We did this the gas tank from a friends BMW 2002tii a few years ago. 

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 1997 13:10:09 -0400
Subject: Re: Rochesters

Ah, yes....Rottenchesters.

There are several different flavors of these beasts - the one you want is
from the mid-1950s 6-cylinder Chevrolet automobiles. There's a truck
version that's rigged with a manual choke which is even better, but they're
hard to find.

This beast is gong to need to be re-jetted with a #48 to #50 jet - I've
been told that these numbers are the size of the jet orifice as compared to
the same numeric-size drill bit - I can't confirm that personally, but it
seems about right.

Some people love them, some hate them. I'd rather have a Weber myself, but
they do work.

As far as the mounting goes, you'll need to remove the adapter that's on
there and bolt right down on the phenolic block. Also, you'll need to do a
bit of mechanical imagineering to hook up the carburetor linkage, and turn
the bellcrank arm about so that downward pressure on the accelerator pedal
produces upward rather than downward motion from the linkage end -
Rochesters and Zeniths are backwards this way.

One Rochester I used at one time was the one from a Chevrolet Vega
(eeewwwww!). This is a much later-model one, from the mid 1970s. it worked
great and was jetted properly for the engine right off the shelf, but was a
hard-starter requiring full choke year-round to start.

                    Hope this helps.....Al Richer

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Aug 1997 11:26:26 -0700
From: Clayton Kirkwood <kirkwood@kirkwood-desk.fm.intel.com>
Subject: re-subscribe

Hi, I have tried to re-subscribe to this list for about a week now and have
gotten nowhere with the prescribed method. Any ideas or help would be
appreciated.

Thanks,

Clayton 95 Disco

------------------------------

From: Brian Tuffs <btuffs@norcen.com>
Subject: RE: re-subscribe
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 1997 12:57:32 -0600

I had a subscription problem too, but got it worked out.
	Send your email to majordomo@playground.sun.com and in the body of the
mail (not the subject line) just write: subscribe lro  
nothing else, just that.

Hope this helps.
Brian Tuffs 

>----------
>From: 	Clayton Kirkwood[SMTP:kirkwood@kirkwood-desk.fm.intel.com]
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 18 lines)]
>appreciated.
>Thanks,
>Clayton 95 Disco

------------------------------

From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Subject: Wheel Cylinders, Italian vs British
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 1997 12:48:04 -0700

I have recently purchased a set of new wheel cylinders (for the 
brakes) for my '61 SWB.  While waiting for them to arrive, I used a 
set from a friends stockpile, with the intent of giving him the ones 
that I had coming.

My question to the collective knowledge of the list (Borg?) is this: 
 the ones that I got from my friend were made in Italy.  The ones that 
arrived from Britain are the real thing (Genuine Land-Rover.)  Are the 
genuine articles of a much higher quality than the jobber parts?  They 
are almost double the price.  Are they worth it?  Has anyone had 
problems with after-market pattern parts - not just brake bits but 
other parts too?

Paul

1961 Series II 88
Victoria, BC  Canada

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Aug 1997 16:02:13 -0400 (EDT)
From: kelliott@intranet.ca (Keith Elliott)
Subject: Re: Wheel Cylinders, Italian vs British

Hi Paul...

I bought a set of wheel cylinders from Atlantic British and so far they have
been fine, mind you they have only been on the vehicle since the end of May.
They cost me exactly half of what the OEM parts cost. I think that for some
parts it is worth trying out jobbers but for the essential parts like
bearings and seals I think I would stick with the genuine Land Rover stuff.

TTYL
Keith
1961 Series II 88

>My question to the collective knowledge of the list (Borg?) is this: 
> the ones that I got from my friend were made in Italy.  The ones that 
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 16 lines)]
>Paul
>1961 Series II 88
>Victoria, BC  Canada

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Mon, 25 Aug 97 16:08:24 EST
Subject: Re[2]: Rochesters

Al on rot-chesters

>it worked
>great and was jetted properly for the engine right off the shelf, but was a
>hard-starter requiring full choke year-round to start.

just like a WEBER. So what's a little choke?. Smells bad, that's all...
                    
later
DaveB.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Aug 1997 16:38:04 -0400 (EDT)
From: pscales@blvl.igs.net (P.S.)
Subject: Re: Brakes, Italian vs British

>The [wheel cylinders] that I got from my friend were made in Italy.  
>The ones that arrived from Britain are Genuine Land-Rover.
>Has anyone had problems with after-market pattern parts - not 
>just brake bits but other parts too?

My TR-7 has Italian brakes now, and they seem fine.  Inexpensive, too.

Peter

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Aug 1997 17:03:33 -0400
From: Jeff Goldman <roverboy@gis.net>
Subject: Big Sky Rover dealings?

	Has anyone ever had dealings with Big Sky Rovers in Montana? What's the
word? 

Jeff G.

Boston, MA
1971 88" Series IIA Land Rover
1990 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
1991 Range Rover Hunter 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Aug 1997 18:14:47 -0400
From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com>
Subject: Re: 2.25 Cranks

Keith Elliott wrote:

>    After reading the posts from David and John I am wondering if what
> I was
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 7 lines)]
> the
> cranks the same?

The cranks are not the same. The SII crank has smaller rod journals. The
main journals are the same size, but the bearing shells are different. I
don't know if a SIIA/III crank and rods will work in a SII block with
SII main bearing shells.

Regards,
David Cockey

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Aug 1997 21:31:34 -0500
From: HANSON PAUL <HANSONPA@mail.milwaukee.k12.wi.us>
Subject: Subscribe me, PLEASE!

Please re-subcrribe me to your daily list. 
	Somehow I have been disconnected. 
	Paul Hanson

------------------------------

From: "T. F. Mills" <tomills@odin.cair.du.edu>
Date: Tue, 26 Aug 1997 00:11:42 +0000
Subject: RR springs

------- Forwarded Message Follows -------
Date:          Tue, 26 Aug 1997 02:47:40 +0200
From:          rdelrosso@pelagus.it
Subject:       

Dear sir,
I' m the owner of the Range Rover VM 2.5 L.H.D.,
I am looking for a new rear elicidal spring to fit into my car, in the front
transmission I haven't any problem,R.R. uses the double green springs and
they are sufficient hard to work under diesel engine.
But the rear body is about 1 inch more down than the front,  and I need to
known how recognise Rover's colour code. ( I remember a yellow-pink code.
and red-red-pink code)
If you can help me, please contact to:
 Roberto Del Rosso
 6 via A.Veranzio, 00143 Roma-Italy
       Roberto

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