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msg | Sender | lines | Subject |
1 | lopezba@atnet.at | 24 | Re: Trip report (of visit to dealer) |
2 | pscales@blvl.igs.net (P. | 34 | Series II clutch, fuel pump |
3 | "Adamson, John G" [adams | 37 | Engine parts for a series II |
4 | David Cockey [dcockey@ti | 30 | Re: Engine parts for a series II |
5 | Franz Parzefall [franz@m | 31 | rear brake drum removal |
Date: Sun, 24 Aug 1997 20:01:21 +0200 From: lopezba@atnet.at Subject: Re: Trip report (of visit to dealer) Dear all, Frans from NL told us about his problems finding a Land-Rover. Let me say that I think the prices quoted are unrealistic. In the UK, reasonable IIA's go for between 1,500 and 2,500 GBP. Since most European countries have special rules for importing cars that are older than 20 or 25 years, and both the Netherlands and the UK are EU members, importing a car from the UK should not be a problem, and that determines the price in the NL. So a IIA in very good shape for about 3,000 pounds should be very realistic. Anyway, I would not buy a wreck from a dealer and then let him repair the car he sold me - this is just a source of problems, since many jobs on an L-R can be done properly, or just cosmetically. Just for comparison - one of my colleagues bought an S III Diesel that is in much better shape than your wreck for about 1,500 USD the other day. I paid less than 3,000 USD for my SI that was in good shape mechanically, just needs some prettying up. Good luck with the search, and don't rush into anything! Peter Hirsch Vienna, Austria Series One 107in Station Wagon (in bits and pieces) ------------------------------[ <- Message 2 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970825 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sun, 24 Aug 1997 14:52:46 -0400 (EDT) From: pscales@blvl.igs.net (P.S.) Subject: Series II clutch, fuel pump Hi all, I need some advice about my "new" truck. Hope you can help! Fuel System: I put a fully charged battery into my 1959 Land Rover diesel Series II, and the engine cranked over wonderfully! But it did not start. I let it crank for about ten, 5-second bursts. Still no start. There was, by now, diesel slowly dripping out of the fuel injection unit. Nothing unusual, I suppose. I finger-pumped the primer on the bottom of the fuel pump, and there was no resistance. That's odd, isn't it? I had Paula work the ignition key while I held up the primer lever. No resistance again, and no perceptible movement inside the pump. Hmm?? Whitish-blue smoke curls lazily out of the cracks in the exhaust pipe by now, so I know that *something* is getting through! Any advice? Is my pump diaphram shot? Clutch: I topped up the fluid reservoir, and Paula pumped the pedal while I twisted the bleed nipple back and forth. Soon, the bubbly grey fluid was gone and the clear new fluid was coming out. Paula reported lots of pedal feel. I tightened up the nipple, and Paula gave the pedal a few more kicks. An evil sucking sound now comes out of the slave cylinder! Now what?? Peter Trenton, Ontario ------------------------------[ <- Message 3 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970825 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Adamson, John G" <adamsojg@jmu.edu> Subject: Engine parts for a series II Date: Sun, 24 Aug 1997 19:45:27 -0500 (US Eastern Standard Time) I bought a 1965 IIa as project car. I am in the process of rebuilding and currently focusing on the 2.25 petrol motor. I ordered all the bits and pieces I need to reassemble my motor from England months ago. I tried to set the crank and ran into a very strange problem. The inserts on the mains were backwards. I have been told that that means I have a series II motor. The only differences that I am aware of are the main bearings, big end shells, and the water pump. I have a nine bolt pump and I believe that is the same as a IIa; however, a series II has a pump with 8 bolt holes. (so I've been told) My problem is finding the right bearings. Upon discovering this problem, I searched here in the States and had no luck. I wrote England explainning what had happened. They found some, so they said, and I ordered them. When the package arrived, it had three sets of mains and one set of big end shells....(all for the IIa.) Now I have four sets of bearings and two sets of shells all for the wrong motor. I have a motor in pieces and have no solution in sight. I'm going to fax England and send the parts back, but I'm hesitant to try to order from them yet again. If anyone has any suggestions, they would be greatly appreciated. John Adamson (540)568-7439 -- Adamson, John G adamsojg@jmu.edu ------------------------------[ <- Message 4 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970825 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sun, 24 Aug 1997 22:11:07 -0400 From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com> Subject: Re: Engine parts for a series II Adamson, John G wrote: > I tried to set the crank and ran into a very strange problem. The > inserts on the mains were backwards. I have been told that > that means I have a series II motor. ...... > My problem is finding the right bearings.... What is your engine number? (found on a slanted, machined surface at the front of the block) If it starts with a "1" and has nine digits then you have a SII block. If it starts with a "2" and has 8 digits and a suffix letter then it is a SIIA block. It is quite conceivable that the original block, crank and rods was replaced with an SII block, crank and rods. If the SIIA front cover was retained then the latter style water pump would be used as well as the SIIA head. SII bearings are available from several specialists in England but only in several undersizes. Original sizes are virtually unobtainable. I'll send John (and anyone else who e-mails me direct) a copy of an OVLR article comparing SII engines to the later SIIA engines. Regards, David Cockey '60 SII 88 SW '60 SII 88 PU ------------------------------[ <- Message 5 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970825 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Franz Parzefall <franz@max.physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de> Subject: rear brake drum removal Date: Mon, 25 Aug 1997 08:54:37 +0200 (MET DST) Hello folks, I know that this has already been covered, but I gave up after scanning 50 of the 100 hits the search engine gave me on the list archive. What size is the thread in the rear break drum of a 1989 110? (the one that is used to get the drum off) The bolt that holds the drum is 8mm, but the removal thread is a bit larger and definitely smaller than 10mm. I'd guess at UNC3/8-16. Anyone who knows better? Nonmetric bolts are a big fuss to get here, so it would be nice to know in advance. Ah, yes. I think the drums are the same as on the late 109s, while the holding bolt most likely has been changed from imperial to metric. Thanks, Franz Franz Parzefall franz@physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de http://www.physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de/~franz _______ [____|\_\== [_-__|__|_-] Brumml, exmil. 1989 Land Rover 110 2.5D ___.._(0)..._.(0)__..- ------------------------------[ <- Message 6 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970825 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
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