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The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

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1 "Kobus Meyer" [KOBUSM@hb20 RADIAL&CROSSPLY
2 Easton Trevor [Trevor_Ea9Re - Solex carb question
3 John McMaster - Chiarosc3[not specified]
4 NADdMD@aol.com 15Re: Series IIA rear axle oil seal replacement
5 dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.o21Re: Maryland Vehicle Inspection
6 dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.o74Re: SIII gear selectors HELP!
7 dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.o27Re: SII Transmission
8 dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.o16Rancho De Rover
9 "Jim Holmes" [jrh@hooked31Re: Rancho De Rover
10 finchm@sky3.bskyb.com 19 French LR Fans
11 scooper@scooper.seanet.c8Portland British Show
12 Michael R Fredette [mfre17Re: Portland British Show
13 gpool@pacific.net (Granv20Re: Portland British Show
14 Brian Tuffs [btuffs@norc25Zenith
15 Turpsters@aol.com 7unsubscribe
16 John Putnam [JPutnam@whp19Unsubscribe.


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From: "Kobus Meyer" <KOBUSM@hb.new.iscorltd.co.za>
Date:          Fri, 22 Aug 1997 13:00:56 +2.00
Subject:       RADIAL&CROSSPLY

HI,

REGARDING MIXING RADIAL & CROSSPLY TYRES. NEVER DO IT. I NEARLY 
ROLLED MY BROTHERS 110 PU ON THE SODWANA DIRT ROAD. IT WAS FITTED 
WITH RADIALS IN FRONT AND CROSSPLY IN THE REAR. THE LANDY ALSO 
HANDLED BAD ON TAR. AFTER WE FITTED RADIALS ALL ROUND IT HANDLED LIKE 
IT SHOULD.

BY THE WAY, WE FITTED GENERAL SAG`S, AND THEY ARE SUPURB. FITTED ON 7 
IN. RIMS THEY GIVE GOOD FLOATATION ON SAND, AND THEY ARE OF COURSE 
VERY GOOD IN MUD.

REGARDS
KOBUS S111 109 SW

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From: Easton Trevor <Trevor_Easton@dofasco.ca>
Subject: Re - Solex carb question
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 1997 07:17:00 -0400

I purchased an aftermarket Solex rebuild kit from Paddock. It was
manufactured by BM. The gaskets dissolved in North American (Canadian)
gasoline!!!. Some other parts were poorly fitting too.

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Date: Fri, 22 Aug 1997 12:39:49 +0100
From: John McMaster - Chiaroscuro <john.chia@mail.ndirect.co.uk>

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From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 1997 08:05:46 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Series IIA rear axle oil seal replacement 

In a message dated 97-08-22 05:41:50 EDT, you write:

<< Also, what else should I replace
 as long as I'm in there? >>

Replace the distance piece that the seal rides on.  
Also replace the felt seal at the end of the hub.  (Rubber side out)

Nate

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From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 97 07:35:27 EST
Subject: Re: Maryland Vehicle Inspection

>Anyone in the Washington D.C. area know of a Series Land Rover friendly
>place to get my Beast inspected for Maryland State.  I've moved to Maryland
>and don't want to get raked over the coals on this one.

Don't do it!
It's that simple. Get the Historic plates, mon.
No inspection required. Ever. Nada. Zip. Zilch.
Don't worry about the "driving only to fairs, parades, etc" clause.
Its just a formality
Right Bill?
Right Quintin?

Later

Dave

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From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 97 07:56:53 EST
Subject: Re: SIII gear selectors HELP!

>I just stripped the selectors on one of my SIII's .... hopping out of 4th gear 
>... I tried stretching the detent spring first, 

Why not replace the detent springs instead. Stretching springs does nothing to 
restore their "spring" just makes them longer. You need to replace it with a new
one in order to really determine if that's the problem. Besides, they are cheap.
Replace the little balls too.

>> the selector rods should "horizontally mirror that - like -
>>3/4    1/2   R

yes this is correct

>But according to the key to the layout diagram in Haynes, the rod in the
>middle (seen from above, looking forward) is 3/4, the lefthand rod is
>1/2, and the diagram agrees on right hand rod for Reverse.

Forget about the diagram. The middle one is 1/2. I think the trick is that you 
have to put two of them in and then to get the last one in you have to lift one 
of the two a little bit.

>I know they can't be put on wrong - but they have to be remounted in the
>correct order, therefore identification is helpful.

I used the diagram the first (of many) time I did this. Haven't used it since, 
just fiddle with em until they go in. Best thing is to put each one in by 
itself, and see how they go. then just try different combinations until you get 
them all in.

>Is this a misprint? or is there something I have overlooked (like
>getting my mechanic to do it) ?

Nnnnnooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo!

>>Anyone with a quick tip?

1. Be a good time to install a breather in the little disc on the tranny cover.
2. Don't forget the Hylomar.
3. DO NOT bolt the floors in until you have driven it a bit. Otherwise you will 
have to undo them all over agian when you find that you have succeeded in making
it pop out of second as well...(been there)

> the detent ball for the middle rod is missing, and I'm 99.9999999999% sure 
>that it didn't drop into the box 

stick a magnet on a string up into the box from the drain hole. I bet its in 
there. Usually falls out when the lid comes up.
If you don't find it spin the gears a couple of times.
Your shifting from 1/2 would have felt odd if you hadn't had the ball. There 
would not have been the feeling of "engagement" that you get when the ball 
clicks. Also there would probably be funny wear on the spring end and selector 
shaft, where the two rub together

> the gears are unworn, and there are signes of
>recent rebuild on the gearbox - the 3/4th (lefthand - or is it the 1/2
>selectior fork is new!)

Can't see the constant speed gears...(4th)

>>So it all remains a mystery to me!

It will until you strip the box. Can you hold it in gear? If so then a pice of 
coat hanger works well to hold it for you. If you want to be fancy (!) a piece 
of perspex can be shaped to hook around the lever too.

Cheers

DaveB.

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From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 97 08:04:04 EST
Subject: Re: SII Transmission

>My pal Mitch has a '59 SWB that he's yanked the trans on.  Work completed,
>he wants to know if it is possible for the transmission to be mounted
>without the transfer case.  His reasoning being, it will be much lighter to
>.heft up and in and then the transfer case can be put on after the trans is
>.bolted up . Is this a go or no go?

Go. 
Hey Wes. 
Tell 'im to quit whining, its not that heavy. How the hell did he get it 
out.
Big Boy can handle it.
Maybe Jon can come over and Buddzo can scare it into place by barking at 
it.
How are all the other P-burgh project ROvers going?

Seriously it can be done either way but I think its easier to build the 
whole thnig on the bench and then just put it in. Speshly if the seatbox is 
out already.

later
Dave

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From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 97 08:48:56 EST
Subject: Rancho De Rover

I want to upgrade to a heavier front shock. Anyone got those Rancho 5000#'s 
again?
Front and rear #'s if ya got em.

Anyone out there with a winch mounted up front have problems with shocks 
going bad?
How about the heavy duty rover shocks?

thanks
DaveB.

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From: "Jim Holmes" <jrh@hooked.net>
Subject: Re: Rancho De Rover
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 1997 08:13:05 -0700

Dave,

Just put rancho 5000s on my 59 sii88 a couple of weeks ago. Part #s - front
5163 rear 5169. Got mine mailorder from desert rat off-road center in
Arizona. The price was $150 for the four, no tax, free shipping.

My gearbox went out right after I put them on, so I can't comment on ride
quality yet.

cheers,

Jim

----------
> From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
> To: lro@playground.sun.com
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 9 lines)]
> Date: Friday, August 22, 1997 6:48 AM
> I want to upgrade to a heavier front shock. Anyone got those Rancho
5000#'s 
> again?
> Front and rear #'s if ya got em.
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 11 lines)]
> thanks
> DaveB.

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From: finchm@sky3.bskyb.com
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 1997 16:49:17 +0000
Subject:  French LR Fans

 ----------
From: Finch, Mark
Subject: French LR Fans
Date: 22 August 1997 1:49

Is there anybody out there who gets a french 4x4 magazine, because it may
have pictures of my Pink Panther in it because the photographer was at
Billing.

I would like to get a copy of it

Yours mark

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Date: Fri, 22 Aug 1997 08:54:15 -0700 (PDT)
From: scooper@scooper.seanet.com (John & Sandy Cooper)
Subject: Portland British Show

Is the Portland British auto show this August 30-31?  I did not receive a
flyer this year and am hoping to attend the show will the ol-rover.
Thanks, John Cooper 1969 11a

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From: Michael R Fredette <mfredett@ptdcs2.intel.com>
Subject: Re: Portland British Show
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 1997 09:09:10 -0700 (PDT)

> Is the Portland British auto show this August 30-31?  I did not receive a
> flyer this year and am hoping to attend the show will the ol-rover.
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 6 lines)]
> flyer this year and am hoping to attend the show will the ol-rover.
> Thanks, John Cooper 1969 11a
John,

     Yes it's on Labor Day weekend as ussual. That's Aug 30-31, next weekend.

     Rgds
     Mike

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Date: Fri, 22 Aug 1997 11:52:40 -0700 (PDT)
From: gpool@pacific.net (Granville Pool)
Subject: Re: Portland British Show

John C,

>Is the Portland British auto show this August 30-31?  I did not receive a
>flyer this year and am hoping to attend the show will the ol-rover.
>Thanks, John Cooper 1969 11a

That's right.  For those pre-registered (too late for that) or those camping
at the site (and why would an LRO not do that?), it really begins Friday
evening (the 29th).  Have fun there; wish I could go this year but have a
big meeting on Friday and would need both Thursday and Friday off work to
get there from No. Cal. in the oh, so slow Snark.

Cheers,

Granny

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From: Brian Tuffs <btuffs@norcen.com>
Subject: Zenith
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 1997 15:10:50 -0600

Folks,
	I know Zenith carbs have been discussed to death, but I think I have a
new question.... Just finished rebuilding the carb(an old Zenith - the
ones with 'Solex' still stamped on the outside), replaced jets with same
sized ones etc and adjusted the float to the 1 5/16" specified in the
manual (this is a lot higher than it was set at previously). The carb
now displays all the symptons of fuel starvation, irregular idle, stalls
when braking hard in reverse (!). The 'idle mixture screw' has to be
turned out ~4.5 turns so the engine will idle smoothly (prescribes ~ 1.5
turns in the manual). The truck is now obviously running rich with a
sooty-black tailpipe and high fuel consumption. 
	Am I missing something, should I just adjust the float lower (or in
reality 'higher') to allow more fuel in the body of the carb. ???
	Or, should I just go out and buy a Rochester (what is involved in the
transplant?). Any suggestions greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance
Brian Tuffs
'66 SWB "Blue" (newly rebuilt engine and 'home-spray').

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From: Turpsters@aol.com
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 1997 18:22:30 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: unsubscribe

please unsubscribe turpsters@aol.com

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From: John Putnam <JPutnam@whpacific.com>
Subject: Unsubscribe.
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 1997 18:02:34 -0700

Hello,

I seem to be having a little trouble unsubsribing from the LRO. I have
taken a subscription on another account.  The problem seem to be that my
great IS staff decided to change my old address jdputnam@whpacific to
jputnam@whpacific.com with out notifying me befor hand.  I currently
have an alias but the major will not let be unsubscribe because of the
alias.

thanks for your help.

John Putnam
Forestgrove, OR

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