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From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 08:05:41 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Spin-on oil filter adapter?

In a message dated 97-08-21 06:50:07 EDT, you write:

 I think it's the hot oil draining down the sleeve of their coveralls
 that folks object to :-)
  >>
Ya' know, when the weather gets cold, I don't consider it all that
objectionable ; )

Nate

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Thu, 21 Aug 97 07:53:01 EST
Subject: Re: Series IIA rear axle oil seal replacement 

>Also, what is the correct ignition timing for a 1970 Series IIA with all
>the emmision control junk removed? 

Ive got a SIII, but they had the same crap I think which on mnie has also been 
torn out. 
mine is at TDC, and I run 93 octane. It deisels with anything else, even after 
decoking the pistons.
with a timing light its either 6 or 12 BTDC at around 800 rpm.

later

DaveB.

------------------------------

From: WJMcD@aol.com
Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 08:53:43 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Spin-on this...

Just think... with a spin-on filter, you could take you Land Rover to Jiffy
Lube, just like a real car! What's the fun in a clean oil change? Where's the
challenge? Wear your oil stained driveway with pride. 

Bill "Slick" McDonald
69 109SW- Canister type
66 MGB- Canister Type
93 VW Eurovan- Spin-on Type and the hardest to change!
Oh Yeah 75 Honda 400F Supersport- Spin-on!

3 outta 4 ain't bad

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 09:14:00 -0400
Subject: What's the diameter of the front pulley mount on a IIa crank?

Expiring minds need to know....

               ajr

------------------------------

From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 10:14:41 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: LR Made it home... LRNA fixes leaks.

I just got back after driving 6000 or so miles since July 25th. The transfer
case output seals are crying 90wt, the rear propshaft seal at the axle is
weeping and, 1200 or so miles ago, the left rear brake cylinder vented its
liquid contents to the tyre and the atmosphere. The 110 is exhibiting signs
of turning into a Land-Rover... 

I drove: Miami FL->Santa Fe NM-(x-fer leaks here)->Chicago IL->Galena
IL(Dubuque, IA)->Oshkosh WI-(axle leaks here)->Philly PA->Wilmington DE-(rear
brakes fade here)->Lanham MD->Fayetteville NC->Charleston SC->Miami FL.

I stopped in at LRNA on the way south to complain about their fixit shop in
Santa Fe who refused to even see the car without an appointment (I called two
days out of NM for them to order xfer case & axle seals) and basically, what
I told LRNA was: "This is my only vehicle... I travel for my work and depend
on it to get me to the next job... it needed fairly urgent care on a trip...
LR Santa Fe's attitude stinks... they (LR Santa Fe) are probably too busy
mending their clients' second RRs... the message I get is: "Buy a Rover, but
don't stray too far from your primary dealer since others are too busy to
accomodate a just-passing-through-need-help-now customer...." and a few other
choice words indicating my displeasure at finding service hard to come by
when travelling on a semi-rigid schedule. My point was that there ought to
have been some way for the rover to have been looked at without an
appointment or without having to leave the car for a day or two since I was
driving through and it wasn't my hometown with a (free) house to go home to
and perhaps a second car to use, etc.

They made phone calls and told me LR Alexandria had been told to accomodate
the 110, but I had to decline due to time/job deadlines and that I'd have to
carry on southward, continuing to top up fluids as I went and giving lots of
braking room. Before I left, they took me around their test track in a Disco
and showed me the yellow Trek RR being built up and offered to have the seals
fixed at my local dealer free of charge. They listened, they acted, they
fixed! 

Okay, this posting is commiting length-suicide. I am thankful for LRNA's
having paid attention to my complaints (they say they never really get owners
stopping in and giving feedback...) and for the 110 making it back without
the care it should have gotten. Now I can get a full day's rest.

pat
93  110

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 10:55:28 -0400 (EDT)
From: kelliott@intranet.ca (Keith Elliott)
Subject: Solex Carb Question

Hi everyone...

   My Land Rover is blowing quite a bit of black smoke from the exhaust, I
am figuring that this is the carb running too rich. On a Solex carb what can
cause this and what can I do to lean the mixture? Can the carb being too
rich cause pinging at higher revs and light backfireing during deceleration?
I have tried adjusting the idle mixture screw (I know this doesn't affect
anything once the engine is above idle) and it doesn't seem to affect the
idle at all. Does it sound like rebuild time for the carb, and if so I have
been told that the full rebuild kits for these beasts are next to impossible
to get (anyone have a spare lying around somewhere???). Beside tossing the
Solex and springing for a Webber, which financially (read: girlfriend won't
let me spend the money) is not an option right now but would be in the
spring, is there anything else I could do for now?

Thanks
Keith
1961 Series II SWB

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 07:56:10 -0700
From: Greg Moore <gmoore@island.net>
Subject: FS: 11A SWB

Daily driven. New O.D., one year on rebuilt trans, FW hubs, 16" rims.
Located on Vancouver Island.

Email gmoore@island.net  or call (250) 339-0755

Cheers, Greg

------------------------------

From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Thu, 21 Aug 97 10:59:44 EST
Subject: Re: Spin-on this...

>Just think... with a spin-on filter, you could take you Land Rover to Jiffy
>Lube, just like a real car! What's the fun in a clean oil change? Where's the
>challenge? Wear your oil stained driveway with pride. 

Er...my LR came with a spin on. Come and see my driveway sometime...

later
Dave "pass the kitty litter" B.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 17:17:32 +0200
From: Jody Scharrenborg <jody@cyberlab.nl>
Subject: Re: Solex Carb Question

Hi Keith,

Before you change anything to your carb check a few other options.
- Is the smoke comming from engine oil?

>am figuring that this is the carb running too rich. On a Solex carb what can
>cause this and what can I do to lean the mixture?
Before you change anything to your carb check a few other options.
- Is the smoke comming from engine oil? Is the LR using a lot of oil?
- Is the timing right?

>Can the carb being too
>rich cause pinging at higher revs and light backfireing during deceleration?

Sounds more like a bit to poor I think.

>let me spend the money) is not an option right now but would be in the
>spring, is there anything else I could do for now?

Enjoy the smoke, that's what I do.

Jody Scharrenborg

S1 86" 1955

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 11:23:50 -0400 (EDT)
From: kelliott@intranet.ca (Keith Elliott)
Subject: Re: Solex Carb Question

>Before you change anything to your carb check a few other options.
>- Is the smoke comming from engine oil? Is the LR using a lot of oil?
>- Is the timing right?

The smoke is definitly not oil being burnt (Thank the Land Rover Gods!!!!) I
have good compression and the only place I am loosing oil is from the rear
seal on the block. Timing is another story all together, I had to replace
the chain because the old one jumpped quite a few teeth and I could have
gotten that screwed up when I put it back on... I haven't checked it with a
light yet but I am going to.

Thanks for the reply...

Keith

------------------------------

From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Subject: RE: Solex Carb Question
Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 09:04:30 -0700

Hi Keith,

I also have a '61 SWB with a Solex.  My local mechanic overhauled my 
carb for $60.00 (Canadian$)

I have been told that if it is running to rich, the problem usually 
lies with the float.  If you can, open up the carb and check the 
float, if it is full of gasoline (petrol), it has a leak and must be 
soldered or replaced.  Any maintenance beyond that is beyond me :-)

Paul Quin
1961 Series II 88''
Victoria, BC  Canada

----------
From:  kelliott@intranet.ca[SMTP:kelliott@intranet.ca]
Sent:  Thursday, August 21, 1997 7:55 AM
Subject:  Solex Carb Question

Hi everyone...

   My Land Rover is blowing quite a bit of black smoke from the 
exhaust, I
am figuring that this is the carb running too rich. On a Solex carb 
what can
cause this and what can I do to lean the mixture? Can the carb being 
too
rich cause pinging at higher revs and light backfireing during 
deceleration?
I have tried adjusting the idle mixture screw (I know this doesn't 
affect
anything once the engine is above idle) and it doesn't seem to affect 
the
idle at all. Does it sound like rebuild time for the carb, and if so I 
have
been told that the full rebuild kits for these beasts are next to 
impossible
to get (anyone have a spare lying around somewhere???). Beside tossing 
the
Solex and springing for a Webber, which financially (read: girlfriend 
won't
let me spend the money) is not an option right now but would be in 
the
spring, is there anything else I could do for now?

Thanks
Keith
1961 Series II SWB

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 09:55:26 -0700
From: "Christopher H. Dow" <dow@thelen.org>
Subject: Tachometer, Windscreen Wiper, Reverse Lamp Switch

The subject describes the next items in my project.  I have a few
questions regarding them:

Tachometer:
I have a tach from a '67 MGB.  It's the proper diameter, but it's +VE
(I've converted to -VE).  The wrecking yard person from whom I purchased
it claimed I simply have to reverse the loop of ignition wire that goes
around the sensor, but wasn't totally clear on all the specifics of
installing it.  Would someone who's done this mind helping me out?

Windscreen Wipers:
I've acquired a three-speed lucal windscreen wiper motor, and want to
ditch the independant motors that were OE on my '65 IIA.  What parts to
I need to convert?  Also, how is this thing mounted?

Reverse Lamp Switch:
I'd like to connect my reverse lamps up to the transmission, but I don't
have a switch.  When I renewed my harness, the wiring was included (as a
separate sub-harness).  What do I need to do to fit the switch to the
transmission.

Thanks for any help,
C

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 12:58:43 -0400
Subject: Re: Tachometer, Windscreen Wiper, Reverse Lamp Switch

Re: Tach:

You need to get the voltages correct to the device itself - which is not
going to be easy unless you isolate it from frame ground and feed it that
way.

The loop is just an inductive pickup - it's not going to care about
grounding, but the transistors in the unit will.

Re: Wiper motor:

You also need the wheel boxes and the tubes, along with the drive cable
between them. Once you have those, you'll have to mount the motor on the
left-side bulkhead, cut the top of the dashboard to let the tube through,
and then mark and drill the bulkhead for the wheel boxes and mount them.

It's quite an involved piece of work - personally I'd just stay with the
old ones.

Backup light switch:

Easy enough - you drill and tap the shift lever flange for the switch and
just thread it right up. Put the trans in reverse and screw it in till the
switch makes, and you're there.

                    ajr

------------------------------

From: Easton Trevor <Trevor_Easton@dofasco.ca>
Subject: British Car Day-Toronto
Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 13:31:00 -0400

Toronto Triumph Club -British Car Day -Bronte Park
September 21st 1997

Toronto Area Rover Club is getting a jump on the 50th anniversary with
Land Rover Canada's sponsorship of the TTC British Car Day at Bronte
Creek Provincial Park, Oakville, Ontario. Entitled "Land Rover 50 Years
On", this years event, on September 21st will have a special Land Rover
display area, a free buffet breakfast between 10am and noon for the
first 100 people arriving by Land Rover (Limit 3 per vehicle, no
platoons in 101's).
We also are featuring some Land Rover oriented events during the day, in
addition to the regular class prizes, raffles and flea market.
We are currently negotiating sponsorship from BF Goodrich and hope to
have a set of tyres to be competed for. Also if all goes to plan we will
be auctioning a Land Rover for charity. This could be your chance to own
that vehicle you've always wanted at a price you wouldn't believe. (You
paid how much? For that!!!! Yes dear, but it's in a good cause.)
Bronte Park can be found just North of the Queen Elizabeth Way exiting
at Burloak Drive, Go north past the regular park entrance and enter via
the maintenance lot.

More details call me at 905 945-6128 or email
Trevor Easton
TARC.
Miss Golighty 1962 SIIA 88 SW
Flossie 1958 SI 109 PU

------------------------------

From: Brian Tuffs <btuffs@norcen.com>
Subject: subscribe
Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 11:50:42 -0600

No more digests? Please subscribe me to the real time list.
Thanks
Brian Tuffs

------------------------------

From: MRogers315@aol.com
Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 14:57:53 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Freelander Launch

I heard on the radio today that Land Rover are holding the 
"Press Launch" of "Freelander".
I wait with baited breath to hear the oppinions. 

Mike Rogers
(Lightweight/Range Rover Hybrid) Yes the one with bright yellow wheels.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 20:11:53 -0700
From: Frans Diepstraten <frd@wirehub.nl>
Subject: Knook's and Dutchmen

> >Knook is a well-known company in the Netherlands. In a town called
> >Purmerend, 15 km north of Amsterdam.
> There is an official Lanrover dealer called Knook in Purmerend, there is
> also one called Knook  in Breda (south of Holland).

Well, this question gave at least some insight into the number of 
Dutchmen on the list. Hi guys! I'm off tomorrow to Bonekamp in Heemskerk 
to have a look at a few Series IIa's. Since you guys are in the same fuel 
price situation as I am, you can imagine my question: what kind of milage 
are you getting in your machines? The quotes I have seen sofar make me 
want a diesel to keep the fuel cost down a bit. Has any of you built in a 
propane gas tank in their petrol vehicle? (If you could cc possible 
reactions to f.diepstraten@tebodin.nl I can pick up your reactions at 
work before I leave).

Frans Diepstraten
(non-owner, but seriously searching)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 16:41:35 +0000
From: Ian Harper/Donna-Claire McLeod <tantramar@golden.net>
Subject: Stalling

The best way to fix a Land Rover, I am gradually finding out, is to have
one that is in perfect running order, and then trade the bits that you
think are giving you trouble with the one you are fixing!!!!!!

I did this with my Distributor and it has cured a myriad of ailments,
including smoking (the LR's, not mine) hesitation and the fact that I
could never fine tune either the carb or the timing.    Now that I know
it's the dist, I can order a new one, and put the unit that I swapped
back in my other one.

One thing is still happening though, and I'm not sure which part to swap
next.......

When I come to a stop fast, foot off the gas, the revs go down to the
point of almost stalling.   My theory is that the servo, which uses the
same vacuum from the intake manifold to do its work, is causing the
advance on the distributor to act funny, (advancing or retarding I'm not
sure which) hence the near stalling.   The vacuum guage goes from about
20 down to <5.

Anyone had a similar problem?   I'm thinking that maybe the vacuum
advance has to come off of the carb intake, rather than the manifold,
but my Zenith has no place for this......

Cheers, Ian
-- 
Ian Harper/Donna Claire McLeod
http://www.golden.net/~tantramar
Tantramar House Bed and Breakfast
Stratford, Ontario
Phone(519) 273-7771  Fax (519) 273-3993

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 23:49:10 +0200
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Subject: SIII gear selectors HELP!
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I just stripped the selectors on one of my SIII's to see if I can figure
out why it's hopping out of 4th gear at 80 k.p.h. I tried stretching the
detent spring first, but it didn't help (gave a better "feel" to the
gearstick though.)

Now I'm just trying to put the selectors back - the Haynes manual says
all selector forks to be replaced mounted on selector rod (not locate
forks then install rods) in the order Reverse, 1/2, 3/4

All well and good - but the diagram in the book is confusing - if the
gearshift layout is -

R  1  3
-------
   2  4

then the selector rods should "horizontally mirror that - like -

3/4    1/2   R

But according to the key to the layout diagram in Haynes, the rod in the
middle (seen from above, looking forward) is 3/4, the lefthand rod is
1/2, and the diagram agrees on right hand rod for Reverse.

The official LR Danish manual has a similar diagram, but no key - so no
help there.

I know they can't be put on wrong - but they have to be remounted in the
correct order, therefore identification is helpful.

Is this a misprint? or is there something I have overlooked (like
getting my mechanic to do it) ?

Anyone with a quick tip?

By the way, I didn't find any worn selectors, but the detent ball for
the middle rod is missing, and I'm 99.9999999999% sure that it didn't
drop into the box when I removed the lid, and I have drained the box to
check. So the hopping out of 4th may well continue, but from what I can
see through the lid, the gears are unworn, and there are signes of
recent rebuild on the gearbox - the 3/4th (lefthand - or is it the 1/2
selectior fork is new!)

So it all remains a mystery to me!

help!

-- 
Adrian Redmond

---------------------------------------------------
CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
---------------------------------------------------
telephone (office)		    +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)		    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data                +45 86 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)		    +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)                  +45 40 54 22 66
mobile NMT			    +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail			     channel6@post2.tele.dk
HoTMaiL (www.e-mail)	channel6denmark@hotmail.com
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 17:08:43 -0400 (EDT)
From: "DAN PRASADA-RAO (301)757-1479 X26" <prasadaraodp.nimitz@NAVAIR.NAVY.MIL>
Subject: Maryland Vehicle Inspection

Anyone in the Washington D.C. area know of a Series Land Rover friendly
place to get my Beast inspected for Maryland State.  I've moved to Maryland
and don't want to get raked over the coals on this one.

Please respond directly to prasadarao.nimitz@navair.navy.mil since the web
page for the digests seems to be having some prob's.

Thanks

Dan Rao

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 18:41:06 -0500
From: Wesley Harris <wharris@infowks.com>
Subject: SII Transmission

Here's the story:

My pal Mitch has a '59 SWB that he's yanked the trans on.  Work completed,
he wants to know if it is possible for the transmission to be mounted
without the transfer case.  His reasoning being, it will be much lighter to
heft up and in and then the transfer case can be put on after the trans is
bolted up . Is this a go or no go?

All the best, 

Wes Harris

'64 IIA 88"  

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 20:15:29 -0400
Subject: Re: SII Transmission

Re: Getting the tranny mounted:

Yes, most definitely. When I did the transmission in my 109, I mounted the
transmission, then hung the transfer and output box off it in the car.
Following that, I inserted the gears in the transfer and closed it up, then
the output and parking brake.

If you're willing to do a certain amount of assembly in the car, there's
absolutely no reason you can't do it. I recommend it for those of us who
don't have help close by - the subassemblies are MUCH lighter and one man
can handle them easily.

An added perk is that you can test the individual sections as you install
them: Fill he gearcase and run it through the gears, test the transfer and
so forth. This way, if something's buggered you can tend to it ASAP without
having to disassemble too much over again.

In short: Go for it!

               ajr

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 21:24:22 -0400
From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com>
Subject: Re: Solex Carb Question

Keith Elliott wrote about his Solex carb:

> Does it sound like rebuild time for the carb, and if so I have
> been told that the full rebuild kits for these beasts are next to
> impossible
> to get (anyone have a spare lying around somewhere???).

Craddock carries a 2 1/4 litre Solex carb rebuild kit for #16.00. I have
one and it is aftermarket, but appears to be quite complete. They and
Blanchard also carry most, if not all parts for Solexes. Carb parts are
light enough that air mail isn't too bad.

Regards,
David Cockey

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 23:51:10 -0400
From: Dean Meyer <Dean.Meyer@internord.net>
Subject: My new web site

Hey everybody, come check out my crappy web site and let me know what
you think. Lots of pictures of Kinabalu and my other assorted British
things. Lots of cool Canadian stuff too...

http://www.internord.net/~1dameyer/index.htm

Dean Meyer

1964 Morris Mini Minor Traveller "Wanna see my woody?"
1966 Austin-Healey 3000 MK III "The moneypit from Vegas"
1967 Austin-Healey Sprite MK III "The big block"
1974 Land Rover Series III 88" "Kinabalu"

------------------------------

From: "daviscar" <Daviscar@concentric.net>
Subject: Event coming up
Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 23:00:48 -0500

Hi All

Just a reminder Sept. 7th is the British car show here in Illinois.
Lets get lots of rovers there! anyone else from the list going?

Bruce   - Chicago
67 SIIA 88 Patches (we'll be there!)

------------------------------

From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Re: Tachometer, Windscreen Wiper, Reverse Lamp Switch
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 97 8:36:56 BST

> Backup light switch:
> Easy enough - you drill and tap the shift lever flange for the switch and
> just thread it right up. Put the trans in reverse and screw it in till the
> switch makes, and you're there.

Or you can get pars - LRW did an article on it last summer. The switch is the
same as the brake-light I think. There's also a special bracket for the base 
of the gearstick with a pre-threaded hole. I've got these, but not the wiring 
or the lights!  :-)

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 22 Aug 1997 10:13:32 +0200
From: Jody Scharrenborg <jody@cyberlab.nl>
Subject: Re: Knook's and Dutchmen

Hi Frans,

>price situation as I am, you can imagine my question: what kind of milage
>are you getting in your machines?

I put in a LPG (autogas) installation. It cost me $1000,-
On LPG I can drive 5 km on a liter @ Fl 0,73.
The landy will still do about 105 km/h, but Im losing a lot of power.
On holliday in the Czech Republic (up hill - down hill) I only used
Unleaded Super and had much more power.
On petrol (octane 95 or +) I can do 7.5 km/liter.
On unleaded Super it's close to 8 km/L.

I do use far to much engine oil. My piston-rings are worn, I have a very
greasy parking place.
I need to add 1 liter every 100 km. (Need to work on that soon)

Greetings,

Jody Scharrenborg

S1 86" 1955

------------------------------

From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Re: SII Transmission
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 97 9:16:47 BST

> Here's the story:
> My pal Mitch has a '59 SWB that he's yanked the trans on.  Work completed,
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 7 lines)]
> heft up and in and then the transfer case can be put on after the trans is
> bolted up . Is this a go or no go?

Go for it. With SIII box, it was easier assembling it insitu than
dis-assembling it on the garage floor (could be to do with all the muck!!)

Its also easier to align the bits as two blocks, I understand, although the
t/case was a bit of a fiddle (mounts have to be aligned [new rubbers
remember], and it has to match the rear of the main box).

Richard

------------------------------

From: "John McMaster" <john@chiaroscuro.co.uk>
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 1997 11:14:01 +1:00
Subject: SIIA gearbox

Hi, I have to go delving into the SIIA gearbox on my trialler over the weekend 
- not my favorite job ;-(

It will not leave 4WD.  If I go into low box and pull the "yellow" lever up, I 
cannot push the "red" lever forward.  It will go into high box but only with 
the 4WD engaged.

Any ideas what the problem is?  It is used off-road quite heavily so may just 
be mucky.  Next is what is the easiest way to dismantle the front output?  I 
have never taken this bit to pieces before and do not know what to expect! I 
have looked through LR manual but am not sure what it may be that is causing 
this.

thanks

john
______________________
John McMaster
john@chiaroscuro.co.uk

green/purple 110/Massey Ferguson

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 22 Aug 1997 12:52:37 +0000 (GMT)
From: "VRIES DE J.W." <vriesde7@dutccis.ct.tudelft.nl>
Subject: Stage1 V8 Fsprings

Hi All,

My friends left the front springs of there Stage 1 before going to 
Afrika and now I want to put those under my 109 diesel.
Is this possible or are the to low, to soft or to long/short?

Regards

Jos de Vries
LR Santana '71 109D  SW
 

------------------------------

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