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Date: Wed, 20 Aug 1997 07:34:30 -0700
From: john hess <jfhess@dcn.davis.ca.us>
Subject: Re: Spin-on oil filter adapter?

>Took about 3 weeks to arrive. I've used it for 4 years now and been very
>happy - oil changes are now almost a joy!
>If interested I can dig out the details...

I think you should.  My Rovers North newsletter just arrived and they have
the adapter on sale for $170.  Part number ETC5347, regular 253.50

cheers,

John F Hess                       1968 Land Rover Dormobile "Elvis"
jfhess@wheel.dcn.davis.ca.us      1984 Mazda GLC "Mazda box"
dormobile homepage:               1960 swb pu "Stubby" (actually Katherine's=
>Took about 3 weeks to arrive. I've used it for 4 years now and been very
http://wheel.dcn.davis.ca.us/~jfhess/homepage.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Aug 1997 09:45:00 -0400 (EDT)
From: MARGARET D FRECH 999-2955 <MARGARET.D.FRECH@usa.dupont.com>
Subject: Unsubscribe LRO

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Aug 1997 17:15:43 +0200
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Subject: Re: Spin-on oil filter adapter?
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I have considered asking the following question many times in the last
year or so - no I cannot hold it back any longer.

Why do people adapt/move their oil filter? what is the advantage? I have
no lift to get under my SIII's, but changing the filter is still a
relativly simple task?

Am I missing out on something here - this topic does seem to indicate
that all LRO's "over there" adapt and move their filters - why?

thanks - I just had to ask!
-- 
Adrian Redmond

---------------------------------------------------
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Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
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Date: Wed, 20 Aug 1997 08:34:56 -0700
From: Greg Moore <gmoore@island.net>
Subject: Re: Spin-on oil filter adapter?

Adrian Redmond wrote:
 

> Why do people adapt/move their oil filter? what is the advantage?

I think it's the hot oil draining down the sleeve of their coveralls
that folks object to :-)

Cheers, Greg

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Aug 1997 08:48:53 -0700
From: Greg Moore <gmoore@island.net>
Subject: engine & adapter

Hello all,

I've got a Chev 250 c.i. I6 (the six cylinder version of the iron duke)
and adapter plate to 11A transmission for sale. The engine has low hours
on a complete rebuild and all the little bits (ie. redrilled flywheel,
pilot bush, pressure plate, etc. etc.) are there.

email me directly at: gmoore@isand.net

Cheers, Greg
Vancouver Island, B.C.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Aug 1997 12:13:12 -0400
From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Subject: Adrian asks....

I have no idea why people opt to relace a perfectly good filter system 
with another perfectly good system. Some claim the filters are cheaper 
and easier to get from the local Pep Boys, but if one pays full retail 
for an adapter, you'd have to change oil about a gazillion times to make 
up the price difference. Others complain about oil dripping on them. 
Obviously they're performing the procedure incorrectly, as one should be 
reaching down from above, not up from below. Besides, whats a little oil 
spilled in the great scheme of things. I bet more gets dumped during a 
run to Pep Boys and back than during an oil change. I like the canister 
filter. It's a throwback to the time of simpler things, and besides, I 
believe it works better...at least on my diesel. And it keeps my 
propshaft lubricated ( ooh, baby! ). There's too much throw-away going on 
elsewhere. I feel I'm recycling in a way. Hooray for Land-Rover!

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon,
'81 Honda Goldwing 1100 Standard ( a lump no more ):
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Aug 1997 13:10:34 -0400 (EDT)
From: kelliott@intranet.ca (Keith Elliott)
Subject: Re: Spin-on oil filter adapter?

>>I imported mine from a guy in Canada!!! Cost about =A330 including post.
>>Took about 3 weeks to arrive. I've used it for 4 years now and been very
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 10 lines)]
>I think you should.  My Rovers North newsletter just arrived and they have
>the adapter on sale for $170.  Part number ETC5347, regular 253.50

I seem to remeber someone quoteing me a price of about $50.00 Canadian,
could have been from Paul Safari in Queenstown near Niagra. For the price
that RN sells them for I would put up with the mess of the old canister for
a looooong time.

Keith

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Aug 1997 11:50:47 -0600
From: William Dan Terry <wterry@netpubsintl.com>
Subject: For Sale: SII 88 HT hull - possible parting

In Colorado, US

-- papers to title and register it
-- complete roller, missing engine, trans, and fuel tank (I do have a
military tank which I'd be willing to do a deal on).
-- perfect for customization like V8 or other
-- perfect chassis, suspension and axles appear excellent.
-- body is, well..., Land-Roverish (lovingly used), needs lots of little
parts
-- US$1500 obo, please contact me directly as I haven't seen a digest in
ages

WILL consider parting it if there is enough interest in enough parts.
I've had one person interested in the top and rear door.

I need to get it out of the garage.

_______W__i__l__l__i__a__m_____D__a__n_____T__e__r__r__y_______
  How do we acquire wisdom along with all these shiny things?
  (David Brin)

  Director of Technology                NetPubs International
  wterry@netpubsintl.com           http://www.netpubsintl.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Aug 1997 20:51:13 +0200
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Subject: Re: Bill answers..
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Thanks Bill - my feelings entirely, I jus6t wanted to know if there
really was some fundamental point I was missing out on. Youmay joke
about Land rovers being self lubricating, and despite the fact that my
gaskets are tight and my chassis is painted, I must admit that I have
NEVER seen a land rover rusting between the front cross member and the
crossmember behind the gearbox. Maybe that's why they don't make that
bit of the chassis as a spare part.

I think that one could generalise and say that there are two schools of
thought amongst LRO's - those who want it to look like a rover, but who
change all the parts for cheaper/better/faster/more powerfull bits, and
those who are satisfied with a rover. Both schools are equally valid,
both have their charm, both their price.

Though how a RAM and Megabyte hungry computer animation artist can ever
be satisfied with with and Solihull Autocab Version 3 beats me, I would
have thought that after a day on Quantel, SGI and Chyron you would be
too hyped up to wait for a 2,25 diesel to render your commands.

:-)

Adrian Redmond

---------------------------------------------------
CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
---------------------------------------------------
telephone (office)		    +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)		    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data                +45 86 57 24 46
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mobile GSM (admin)                  +45 40 54 22 66
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From: RoverNut@aol.com
Date: Wed, 20 Aug 1997 16:39:20 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: subscribe

subscribe

------------------------------

Date: 	Wed, 20 Aug 1997 12:37:02 -1000
From: Wayne R Haight <whaight@hawaii.edu>
Subject: Series IIA rear axle oil seal replacement 

Aloha!

Recently my rear brakes began squealing on the left side. Closer
inspection showed gear oil on the inside of the rear wheel, so I guess
it's time to replace the seals. Does anyone have any tips for completing
this job with the minimum of frustration? Also, what else should I replace
as long as I'm in there?

Also, what is the correct ignition timing for a 1970 Series IIA with all
the emmision control junk removed? The plate under the hood says 6 degrees
AFTER TDC, but my manual says anywhere from TDC to 6 degrees BEFORE TDC. I
imagine that 6 degrees ATDC would be correct if all the polution crap was
still on the vehicle, and that 3-6 degrees BTDC is probably where it
should be now...  

Mahalo,

Wayne R. Haight
1970 Series IIA SWB (Kololohi)

------------------------------

From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Subject: A matter of timing.
Date: Wed, 20 Aug 1997 16:18:44 -0700

Wayne R. Haight asks about timing...

As a rule of thumb, ignition timing can be set by adjusting the 
distributor until the engine just starts to 'ping' under heavy load - 
you'll know it when you hear it - and then back off the advance 
slightly until the pinging stops.

This method allows you to tune your engine to the grade of gasoline 
that you are using - the higher the octane rating, the more advanced 
the timing can be set.

This allows you to get the best performance out of your engine but may 
not get you past the next emissions test...

Paul Quin
1961 Series II SWB
Victoria, BC  Canada

----------
From:  Wayne R Haight[SMTP:whaight@hawaii.edu]

Also, what is the correct ignition timing for a 1970 Series IIA with 
all
the emmision control junk removed? The plate under the hood says 6 
degrees
AFTER TDC, but my manual says anywhere from TDC to 6 degrees BEFORE 
TDC. I
imagine that 6 degrees ATDC would be correct if all the polution crap 
was
still on the vehicle, and that 3-6 degrees BTDC is probably where it
should be now...

------------------------------

From: Blair.Peterson@TRITON-HUB.TRIU.sprint.com
Date: Wed, 20 Aug 1997 18:50:00 -0400
Subject: 109 for sale

     
     1967 Series IIA 109 NADA 5 door Station Wagon (2.25L engine). 
     Professional ground-up complete dismantle and rebuild finished in Feb 
     '96 at 65,000 miles (now at approx 78,000).  Complete and meticulous 
     records and photos documenting the 5 month rebuild process and all 
     maintenance to date.  I drive it everywhere/anywhere with joy.  Some 
     details:
     
     --Engine: 8k miles since top overhaul, new (Jan '97) Weber 2bbl 
     carb w/K&N filter.
     --Drivetrain: 6k mi on rebuilt gearbox/transfer case and new clutch, 
     18k on new front axle (complete) and front prop shaft, fresh rear 
     half shafts.  New overdrive installed Nov '96.  Remote K&N breathers 
     on g-box and t-case.
     --Chassis/bulkhead/grill panel: No corrosion.
     --Brakes: New SIII booster installed, conversion to duplex system. 
     --Suspension/steering: New springs, Rancho shocks all around in Feb '95, 
     rebuilt steering box, new steering wheel, new tie rod ends w/zerks. 
     --Electrical: beautifully redone harness (no Lucas demons), 10k mi on 
     rebuilt dynamo and starter, heated windscreens, Hella horns and halogen 
     headlamps, tach, rear work lamp, CB, Kenlowe aux fan.
     --Tires/wheels: 7.50R16 Cooper Discoverer CTD (5) on blasted/painted 
      genuine wheels (Limestone, Glasurit Urethane).
     --Interior: Seats excellent, new complete headliner (genuine), 
     all instruments/lamps genuine and functional, new seatbelts (10 
     sets, retract shldr harnesses in front), new trim upholstery, 
     1/4" thick ribbed natural rubber mats throughout.
     --Body: Entirely disassembled, stripped and painted in pieces (Marine 
     Blue with Limestone tropical top, Glasurit Urethane).  New: wings, 
     front door bottoms, D90 door tops, window tracks, door rubbers, 
     body/windscreen/roof seals.  All body cappings and most other steel 
     parts re-hot dip galvanized.  Original fasters and miscl hardware such 
     as door hinges, vent bezels, locking hasps, etc all re-zinc plated.  
     New front bumper.
     --Spares: Considerable inventory of spares incl unused, rebuilt 
     dynamo and starter, Solex and Roch carbs, miscl filters and 
     gaskets, intake manifold, oil bath air cleaner, rear half shafts, 
     door seals, brake parts, ignition parts, FW Hubs, Haynes and 
     genuine manuals, etc etc. 
     
     Asking USD20,500 OBO.  Price may seem steep unless you've done this 
     before (then you know it's an incredible deal-- I'll show the receipts!).
     
     Email or call 415-352-6667 24hrs (California).

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Aug 1997 20:29:08 -0500 (CDT)
From: Uncle Roger <sinasohn@crl.com>
Subject: Re: Spin-on oil filter adapter?

At 05:15 PM 8/20/97 +0200, you wrote:
>Why do people adapt/move their oil filter? what is the advantage? I have
>no lift to get under my SIII's, but changing the filter is still a
>relativly simple task?
 
My 109" is a 1959 sII with the long filter.  Filters are expensive
(something like 15USD), must be special ordered, and it's a pain to get the
canister seated back in right.  I've only done it a couple of times, getting
Scotty to do it most of the time.  You have to crawl underneath, and dump
oil on yourself, and in general, not have a very good time.  

The adapter that I bought allows for the use of the standard, american,
$1.99-at-every-corner-filling-station-or-supermarket oil filter, and
furthermore, allows your average, pimpley, oil-busters quick change teenager
to change your oil for you.  It also means the filter can be gotten at from
above, (it sticks out straight to the side, rather than hanging down,)
making that part easier and less messy.

For $60, I still think it was well worth it.  (Even though I put it on
upside down and killed my engine.)

Uncle Roger                       "There is pleasure pure in being mad
sinasohn@crl.com                             that none but madmen know."
Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates
San Francisco, California                  http://www.crl.com/~sinasohn/

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Aug 1997 21:36:27 -0400
From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com>
Subject: Re: A matter of timing.

Paul Quin wrote:

> As a rule of thumb, ignition timing can be set by adjusting the
> distributor until the engine just starts to 'ping' under heavy load -
> you'll know it when you hear it - and then back off the advance
> slightly until the pinging stops.

Make sure you have a good ear for "pinging", Otherwise if you run the
engine hard with the timing advanced too far piston and/or valve damage
may result.

Regards,
David Cockey

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Aug 1997 09:03:35 -0700
From: "Con P. Seitl" <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Adrian asks....

Adams, Bill wrote:
> I have no idea why people opt to relace a perfectly good filter system
> with another perfectly good system. Some claim the filters are cheaper
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 21 lines)]
> '81 Honda Goldwing 1100 Standard ( a lump no more ):
> "Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

I'm going to put my foot into again I guess. I changed my canister to the 
spin on adapter, got it from Paul Socholotiuk in Toronto, 1-416-284-7103, 
Fax @1-416-504-5637, cost me about $50 when I bought it. I nowdon't have 
to worry about all the little leaks that develop in all the little 
places, and oil changes  ( about every 4 months ) are not messy etc. 
Oilfilters are Fram PH8a from Wal-Mart at $2.27 Can$ each, real cheap. 
Buy 6 at a time. I don't re-cycle them, but I don't think you can 
re-cycle the element type either. The element style cost $8.64, so thats 
about 4 changes for the price of one. That works out to about 2.5 years 
to pay for it, so I'm into the money now. Suppose I could always flog it 
off on someone for $253.50, maybe even put it on sale for $170.00 US$ if 
I've been having a good day ;->
---Also came in handy when I built Pig a new engine and changed the oil 
3 times in 48 hours to flush out any crap from the re-build. 

Con Spin-on Seitl
1973 III 88 "Pig"

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Aug 1997 22:20:30 -0400 (EDT)
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Mid-Atlantic

I realize that the digest is still (permanently?) down, but for those 
real-timers still hangin' in there, the Mid-Atlantic Land Rover Rally is a 
little over a month away.  To be held the weekend of October 3-5 in 
Buckingham County, Virginia, reservation forms were mailed out today.  If 
you would like to be included, please send me your snail-mail address.  This 
will be the largest gathering on the continent this year.  Cheers

      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |     Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.     |
      |   "The oldest Rover-marque club in the Americas"    |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 757-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    757-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 757-622-7056     |
      |                                                     |
      *---1972 Series III 88"------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)---*

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Aug 1997 21:47:00 -0700
From: twakeman@scruznet.com (TeriAnn Wakeman)
Subject: Re: Spin-on oil filter adapter?

At  5:15 PM 8/20/97 +0200, Adrian Redmond wrote:

>Why do people adapt/move their oil filter? what is the advantage?

Hi Adrian!

I think the primary reason is that some of us, me included, are canister
filter impaired.  ABout half the time I change the filter, the canister
leaks the first time I try to seal it.  There are probably a number of
people who are not keen on having oil run down their arms while unscrewing
the long centre bolt.

TeriAnn Wakeman

I will be away on a Land Rover photo expidition between Aug 23 and Nov 4.
I will not be on the net during that time.

------------------------------

From: Irving De la Cruz <irvingd@halcyon.com>
Date: Wed, 20 Aug 1997 22:17:15 -0700

SUBSCRIBE

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Aug 1997 21:15:48 -1000
From: Faye and Peter Ogilvie <ogilvi@hgea.org>
Subject: screwed up oil filter

At 09:47 PM 8/20/97 -0700, you wrote:
>>Why do people adapt/move their oil filter? what is the advantage?
>Hi Adrian!

        One time when I changed the oil and filter, did not quite get the
filter back on properly.  Ever tried to clean up 7 quarts of virgin Castrol
synthetic oil off of a brand new unsealed concrete garage floor.  Why would
anyone want to change a filter system that allows for such excitement and
challenge?

Aloha 
Peter 
1970 '88'
1965 '109' pickup
1965 '88' rust bucket parts car.

------------------------------

From: BarrieWyLR@aol.com
Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 03:17:11 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Mid-Atlantic

Sandy please send me some info.  I may be able to attend maybe not who knows.
 Also please pass the word around that my '94 D-90 is for sale, $23,500 OBO,
Thanks
                                                Barrie I Bloom
                                                864 N pine St
                                                Laramie Wy 82072-2457
D-90 no name
60 SII SWB Rugbeater

------------------------------

From: VIPERDM@aol.com
Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 03:28:02 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Unsubscribing

please unsubscribe viperdm@aol.com

------------------------------

From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Re: screwed up oil filter
Date: Thu, 21 Aug 97 8:43:44 BST

> At 09:47 PM 8/20/97 -0700, you wrote:
> >>Why do people adapt/move their oil filter? what is the advantage?
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 8 lines)]
> anyone want to change a filter system that allows for such excitement and
> challenge?

For the first time ever, I did a "clean job" of changing the filter lastnight.
Made a balls-up of taking the sump drain plug out, though...    :-(

Richard  (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 09:58:54 +0200
From: Paul Oxley <paul@adventures.co.za>
Subject: Vacancies on Namibia/Botswana/Zim trip

Hi Guys,

We have space for two persons on our (private) Namibia/Botswana/Zim
overland trip next month - due to last minute cancellations (Grrrr!) by
some "friends". We'll be away from the 6th of Sept till about the 2nd of
Oct (a week in Kaokoland, couple days Etosha,  couple of days at
Drotsky's caves, couple of days in the northern delta, couple of days at
Vic Falls and Hwange) - detailed itinerary on request.

We expect that the costs (which are shared) will work out to about
ZAR3000 per person (all inclusive + beer and wine within reason) sharing
(bring own small tent and s/bag).

Oh yeah! LR content: the touring vehicles are... one (possibly two 110
s/w's), a (st)Range Rover and (TA DA!!!) my R6 (Stage 1 without the v8)
s/w.

Anyone interested? Gimme a buzz on (+27 11) 888 4037.

Regards

Paul Oxley
"into Africa adventures" The African Adventure-travel Webzine
http://www.adventures.co.za
"AfricanAdrenalin" Sign up for adventure here...
http://AfricanAdrenalin.co.za & http://AfricanAdrenalin.com

------------------------------

From: "Davies, Scott" <sdavies@monetpost.stdavids.ncr.com>
Subject: Re: screwed up oil filter
Date: Thu, 21 Aug 97 08:59:00 PDT

>Made a balls-up of taking the sump drain plug out, though...    :-(

Ah come on, you can't leave it like that. Go on, give us all a laugh, tell 
us what you did wrong :-)

Scott Davies '85 110 2.5D HT (oil stained arm and that's with a screw on 
filter:-( )

------------------------------

From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Re: screwed up oil filter
Date: Thu, 21 Aug 97 9:08:28 BST

> >Made a balls-up of taking the sump drain plug out, though...    :-(
> Ah come on, you can't leave it like that. Go on, give us all a laugh, tell 
> us what you did wrong :-)

Not that exciting really.

I found the socket to fit the plug (with extension, so that the ratchet would
be on the other side of the front propshaft). Loosened it sufficient, that it
could be done by hand. The ratchet set is all a bit loose, so this came off.
The socket wouldn't come off the plug easily, because of the close proximity
of the front propshaft (by this point it was sticking out a bit - it had
been unscrewed). Kept turning it until it came off. Comes off surprisingly
quickly, with a long shot of warm oil behind it. Shot out, ? a foot. Of
course, the collector (a washing up bowl) was directly below it - so, yes
it overshot!

Usually, it leaks oil as the plug is unscrewed - becoming quicker and quicker,
not, as lastnight, when it all came out at once!

The problem with fresh oil, is finding the mark on the dipstick!

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)

------------------------------

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