Land Rover Owner Message Digest Contents


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msgSender linesSubject
1 Ian Harper/Donna-Claire 5[not specified]
2 BarrieWyLR@aol.com 7Re: 50th
3 Rick Grant [rgrant@cadvi30Wheel Cylinders and more
4 Adrian Redmond [channel645Re: Wheel Cylinders and more
5 RykRover@aol.com 10Re: Wheel Cylinders and more
6 Nenad Gambiroza [neca@rc84Help me, please!
7 Christian Neuhaus Wiese 23Re: DISCOVERY / DIFFERENTIAL LOCK.
8 DHW4U@aol.com 11Re: SIIa for Sale
9 CIrvin1258@aol.com 15Re: Help me, please!
10 Iwan Vosloo [ivosloo@cs.15Stronger axles on SWB?


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Date: Sat, 09 Aug 1997 10:46:08 +0000
From: Ian Harper/Donna-Claire McLeod <tantramar@golden.net>

subscribe lro-digest

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From: BarrieWyLR@aol.com
Date: Sat, 9 Aug 1997 12:30:45 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: 50th

How About WYOMING?

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Date: Sat, 09 Aug 1997 17:28:25 -0600
From: Rick Grant <rgrant@cadvision.com>
Subject: Wheel Cylinders and more

First of all a belated thanks to those of you who steered me a _relatively_
cheap source of brake wheel cylinders.

So now, I have the whole brake system back together and bled, including the
CB master and there is no sign of air at all.   I accomplished this with a
combination of raised front end, inner tube pressure from the MC end, and
suction device at the wheel end.

 But I have somewhat poor pedal; it travels halfway to the floor before
engaging. On further inspection I find that two of the wheel adjusters are
worn quite smooth and not only do a poor job of bringing the shoes in
contact with the drums, but they also vibrate or slip out of postion.

I'd like to replace them but I can't seem to find a way to undo them.  Is
there a trick to removing adjusters from 10" (88) backplates?  They are left
hand thread aren't they?  Any advice?

			Rick Grant

			1959, SII   "VORIZO"  

rgrant@cadvision.com	
www.cadvision.com/rgrant
Cobra Media Communications.  Calgary, Canada
Aboriginal and International Relief Issues

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Date: Sun, 10 Aug 1997 02:34:11 +0200
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Subject: Re: Wheel Cylinders and more
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Hi rick!

pull the backplate and get it on the bench, clean the backside of those
years worth of crud and gunk, and you should see two 5/16" UNF nuts
which hold the adjuster in place - plenty of WD40, or whatever snake oil
is the local vintage, and they should (?) come off easily.

good luck
-- 
Adrian Redmond

---------------------------------------------------
CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
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From: RykRover@aol.com
Date: Sat, 9 Aug 1997 21:09:58 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Wheel Cylinders and more

rick,  saw a cross on the head of the adjuster , on the front of the plate,
then whack it with a cold chisel.  worked just fine, just make sure you have
new ones to replace them. :^)
                    RGDS, rick v.

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Date: Sun, 10 Aug 1997 03:58:37 +0200
From: Nenad Gambiroza <neca@rcub.bg.ac.yu>
Subject: Help me, please!

Dear sirs from Rover,

I am Rastko Radovanovic from Belgrade YU. Igmanska st.11. You are my
last chance to slove the problem.I have performed over haul renovation
of engine on my Land Rover series IIA from 1968 eng. nd. 5334662,
chass.nd.PUS7802/8600016.

All operations were performed ad it is described in "Land Rover series
IIA repair operation manual" published by Land Rover LTD and "Land Rover
Owners Workshop Manual" by J.H.Haynes.

All components (new) were porchaced from B.L. dealer in Belgrade and all
of them were originaly packed as all other land rover parts.
All grindings,undersizing,measuring were performed by specialist
assording to these two books.

I have placed new liners in cylinder block and them are now as
ew.90.47mm in diametar(in bookis 90.47mm).Gap betwen cilinder bore and
old but very good pistons is less than 0.05mm measured at top of piston
skirt at right angles to gudeonpin.Difference between diametars of
piston measured at top and bottom of skirt is les than 0.02mm. Pistons
are fitted with new piston rings(standard measurement).

Crankshaft is regounded at 0.10 inch undersize and new matching main
bearings and big-end bearings are fitted.

Camshaft and its bearings and tappets have been measured and they
appeared to be all right.Same is with rocker gear (rockers and rocker
shaft).

Cilinder head is also renoved with new valves,valve guides and oil
seals.Valve seats were grinded.

Timing mechanism (gear with chain and tensioner) had been cerafully
examined and refited.Timing were performed as it is described in
book.There was no problems with that, and no problems had occured while
adjusting valves and distributor.

After complete refitting engine started easily and runned smoothly and
evenly. However, engine started to overheat while idling and at slow
run.
Timing,radiator,water ways and water pump,hoses,carburater and so
on,were checked and rechecked.All anclinary components and radiator
water pump... were borrowed from car that operates normaly and placed on
my car,instead of my components but no improvement reached.

Fuel pump (ac type F) is new, exhaust silencer is new but from Iveco
program for small trucks. This one is for 2800ccm diesel engine. Fan is
oriented properly.

When looking through the radiator filler whole a vivid stream of water
can be observed. My conclusion is that water pump works. I have
contacted several people and serviceman from former and current B.L.
dealers here in Belgrade, but they found no mistake.
Since it is a practically new engine, I runned it slowly. But in couple
of times i runned it faster on short hill (1 mile) and I observed that
temperature slightly dropped. Engine had about 3 hrs. of working time
and 20-25 miles. Consumption of fuel is about 12-13 litres per 100km. No
loses of power were detected except when temperature rises. I never
allowed temperature to rise high enough for indicator needle to enter
red zone.

I am greatful for Your understanding and You time. 

Sorry for I am not familiar yet with your measurement system, so I used
metric while describing.

Please, take me out of this twilight zone !

Sincerely yours
Rastko Radovanovic

P.S. In case that You can't aswer my question now, any other advice or
e-mail or mailing address of some other
company/service_shop/organisation that could be of ANY help at all,
would be greatly appreciated.

Thank You again, in advance,
Rastko

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Date: Sat, 9 Aug 1997 21:11:34 -0400 (EDT)
From: Christian Neuhaus Wiese <chnw@amauta.rcp.net.pe>
Subject: Re: DISCOVERY / DIFFERENTIAL LOCK.

To David Ashcroft : 

Thank you for your email.

Can you quote me the three models you have ( ARB, Detroit locker and Detroit
Truetac ?).
Please specify if are you talcking for the front and rear kit ?

I plan to be in Houston in around 2 weeks, so i can call you in advance to
send the diff's there.

At 03:50 AM 08/6/97 -0400, you wrote:

>We sell a range of Locking diffs for rover vehicles ie :
>ARB                        Manual Locking diff
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 15 lines)]
>Regards
>David Ashcroft

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From: DHW4U@aol.com
Date: Sat, 9 Aug 1997 22:18:23 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: SIIa for Sale

rick good luck i am trying to sell my 65 iia also very nice overdrive red 88'
want to buy other rover if you have any serious inquirys pass it along
dave walls
altoona pa
dhw4u@aol.com 

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From: CIrvin1258@aol.com
Date: Sun, 10 Aug 1997 01:29:05 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Help me, please!

Rastko,

The engine timing may be off a bit. Check the grade of fuel that you're
using, and adjust the timing accordingly per the manuals that you have (the
timing can be adjusted for use with various grades of fuel). Otherwise, if
the radiator that you have is known to flow properly, check the carburetor
mixture.

Charles

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Date: Sun, 10 Aug 1997 10:18:48 +0100
From: Iwan Vosloo <ivosloo@cs.up.ac.za>
Subject: Stronger axles on SWB?

Hi all,

does anybody have experience with fitting a stronger axle to a SIII
SWB?  (Yea, gues what happened to me yesterday:-(

I'd really appreciate it if you cc replies to me personally due to the
list deamons...

- Iwan Vosloo
( 1975 SIII 88" Diesel )

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