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msg | Sender | lines | Subject |
1 | NADdMD@aol.com | 24 | Quick clutch adjustment pointers needed |
2 | QROVER80@aol.com | 17 | Re: Quick clutch adjustment pointers needed |
3 | NADdMD@aol.com | 18 | Re: Quick clutch adjustment pointers needed |
4 | MALCOLMF [MALCOLMF@prodi | 50 | Re: Meths |
5 | Jim Lester [Jim@home100. | 27 | Any suggestions |
6 | Jeremy Bartlett [bartlet | 18 | Re: Any suggestions |
7 | AKBLACKLEY@aol.com | 25 | 50TH |
8 | RykRover@aol.com | 16 | SIIa for Sale |
9 | Wesley Harris [wharris@i | 19 | brake line routing |
10 | Jeremy Bartlett [bartlet | 35 | Re: brake line routing |
11 | Matthew Wilson [bogatyr@ | 12 | subscribe |
From: NADdMD@aol.com Date: Fri, 8 Aug 1997 07:56:58 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Quick clutch adjustment pointers needed Hi all, Got the Brick back with its new clutch and rear mainseal. A few things were not assembled correctely (transmission brake linkage, floors in wrong ), but the real problem is the drive in this AM. The clutch engages very close to the floor and I can't get the transmission to double clutch for shifting down (3rd to 2nd). I climbed under and the linkage has some upward movement, but without my cheat notes here, I can't remember proper amount or which way I need to go with the nuts to give it a little more freeplay. I'm going to try to adjust it for the drive home this evening, so rapid responses are appreciated. Thanks Nate ------------------------------[ <- Message 2 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970809 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: QROVER80@aol.com Date: Fri, 8 Aug 1997 09:45:22 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: Quick clutch adjustment pointers needed Nate is the brick a IIa or a III ? I assume that nothing was done to the hydraulic side? If it engages close to the floor and assuming that nothing is wrong with the leaky side you will be wanting to give it LESS free play. It is possible that the slave cyl has been mounted incorrectly. Check that the pushrod goes all the way to the "bottom" of the slave cyl. Considering that "they" assembled other things incorrectly it is possible that something was done wrong in the bell housing , I hope not tho. Be careful, you do not want to have to start improvising / bodging the clutch linkage to make up for someone else's incorrect assembly. Rgds Quintin Aspin ------------------------------[ <- Message 3 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970809 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: NADdMD@aol.com Date: Fri, 8 Aug 1997 11:32:20 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: Quick clutch adjustment pointers needed In a message dated 97-08-08 09:47:00 EDT, you write: << Nate is the brick a IIa or a III ? I assume that nothing was done to the hydraulic side? >> It's a IIa (with a SII engine and transmission). Interestingly, I noted some hydraulic fluid along the push rod last night (possible leak), but the fluid is topped up therefore it shouldn't affect the throw the the clutch. I figure it is either maladjustment of the pushrod or air in the system. I guess I'll have to fuss with it when I get home. Nate ------------------------------[ <- Message 4 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970809 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 08 Aug 1997 13:14:17 +0000 From: MALCOLMF <MALCOLMF@prodigy.net> Subject: Re: Meths > > Anyone from Holland who kwows the dutch equivalent of this Meth ? > same as methylated spririts in the UK? Which is known as denatured alcohol > in the US? Chemists....help! > Marcus OK. You asked for it. Alcohols are compounds of the general formula ROH where R is any alkyl, or substituted alkyl group. In the most commonly found alcohols, R is a chain of one to three carbon atoms in length. All are a fire hazard. Volatility decreases as carbon chain increases (molecular weight goes up), hence a decrease in inflammability and explosive levels of vapors in confined areas. All can be used to sterilize, but ethanol is preferred because of low toxicity and rapid evaporation. All are good solvents for certain types of materials, with the solvency power generally decreasing with increasing molecular weight. 1 carbon: methyl alcohol, methanol, methylated spirits, wood alcohol, a specific toxin for the optic nerve and at very low levels causes blindness and death at higher levels. Vapors bad to breathe. Think toxicity when you think methanol. 2 carbons: ethyl alcohol, ethanol, spirits, grain alcohol (drinking stuff), denatured alcohol (when needed for its properties as a solvent, fuel, etc., a noxious, difficult to remove substance (gasoline is one) is added to ethanol which will cause all sorts of unpleasant but not deadly results. Heavy tax on drinkable alcohol, very little on denatured. Vapors less toxic(brandy, etc.). Fires can be extinguished with water, hence ethanol, most likely denatured, is a fuel of choice for stoves aboard boats. 3 carbons: propyl alcohol, propanol [straight chain]; isopropyl alcohol, isopropanol [branched chain], rubbing alcohol; causes severe gastric disturbances (both ends) if ingested. I believe that it is essentially this stuff that Christy used to make a fortune in by canning it and selling it as Dry Gas. It is not terribly gasoline soluble, preferring the water in the fuel tank, where it acts as antifreeze. One of the few joys of being hospitalized are the alcohol back rubs (isopropanol evaporates more slowly than ethanol, hence a) it is not as chilling and b) lets the rub last longer.) ------------------------------[ <- Message 5 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970809 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 8 Aug 1997 17:39:26 +0100 From: Jim Lester <Jim@home100.demon.co.uk> Subject: Any suggestions I bought a SWB series III Desiel hardtop a year ago and have read all the messages with interest as I am not mechanically minded. I have two questions 1 someone suggested that bus operators use engine oil in the diffs as an aid to increased mpg, it ths a sound suggestion 2 having just completed a 300 mile round trip to pick the wife from the airport I blew 3 pints of engine oil from the rocker breather I assume that at 80000 miles the worn rings are creating pressure in the sump. An engine rebuild is not possible is there anything else I can try Another bearded, Radio amateur in love with a very dirty Landie -- Jim Lester ------------------------------[ <- Message 6 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970809 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 08 Aug 1997 10:33:50 -0700 From: Jeremy Bartlett <bartlett@slip.net> Subject: Re: Any suggestions Jim Lester wrote: > URL: http://WWW.Land-Rover.Team.Net/ > I bought a SWB series III Desiel hardtop a year ago and [ truncated by list-digester (was 12 lines)] > in the diffs as an aid to increased mpg, it ths a > sound suggestion If you're looking to replace your diff shortly thereafter :) Otherwise I'd say definitely not. cheers, Jeremy ------------------------------[ <- Message 7 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970809 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: AKBLACKLEY@aol.com Date: Fri, 8 Aug 1997 14:19:44 -0400 (EDT) Subject: 50TH Sandy: I agree with your thoughts on location. Might I suggest the Parkersburg WVA area? The Blue Ridge Land Rover Club has done some rallies in this area ( I am a club member, but not an official, so these are my unsanctioned thoughts only). Advantages: 1. Terrain. Lots of good county "highways" which are legal to drive on but very challenging to drive through. Mostly abandoned or little used roads from the oil boom days. Rallies have been done here with convoy groups split according to driver and vehicle ability and with trails in close proximity so that the "less damaging" can meet the "balls to the wall" bunch for lunch along the way. 2. Access. Good access from Canada and the north, and from the south east on I-77. Access from the east on US 50 and I-79. It is about equidistant from Vermont, Wisconsin, Georgia and Mississippi if a big regional draw is the goal. 3. Cheap plentiful lodging. Big truck stop area here. 4. Timing. If set for late April/ early May the weather might be half decent. Lots of mud, but with the trees already green. Just some thoughts. Cheers. Andy Blackley ------------------------------[ <- Message 8 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970809 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: RykRover@aol.com Date: Fri, 8 Aug 1997 16:56:05 -0400 (EDT) Subject: SIIa for Sale `63 SIIa hardtop strong motor & gearbox, new fuel pump, wires,battery,brakes & lines,exhaust, swivels w/ gaiters, steering links, tie rods, u-joints,clutch & master cylinder. very good mechanical shape bodyneeds some minor work and a respray . lots of original stuff asking $7500 obo email me direct or phone 410-515-7908 Rick Valentino Bel Air , MD ------------------------------[ <- Message 9 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970809 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 08 Aug 1997 18:35:22 -0500 From: Wesley Harris <wharris@infowks.com> Subject: brake line routing owner = "%s", otherowners = %d All, I'm running my new brake lines and am not sure of the correct placement of one. Specifically, the long line that runs from the rear flex line to the front junction - does this ride on top of the frame, over the crossmembers, or what? I would think that running it under the crossmembers would open it up for damage, destruction, etc but what do I know?!? Any advice is welcome as I am a confessed FNG when it comes to Rovers. I am learning and having a blast, though!! Cheers, Wes Harris '64 IIA 88" ------------------------------[ <- Message 10 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970809 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 08 Aug 1997 16:40:32 -0700 From: Jeremy Bartlett <bartlett@slip.net> Subject: Re: brake line routing Wesley Harris wrote: > I'm running my new brake lines and am not sure of the correct placement of > one. Specifically, the long line that runs from the rear flex line to the > front junction - does this ride on top of the frame, over the crossmembers, > or what? I'm assuming the 88 is like the 109. The lines run on top of the frame. There should be retaining clips (or the very small screw holes that hold them in place) along the frame top. Make sure the lines are secured in place. The front line to the left side runs along the back side (NOT top) of the cross member; again there should be retainers holding it in place. Be careful where you run the lines though if you don't have the original retainers or line location marked. Make sure its clear of pinch points like body mounts. > I would think that running it under the crossmembers would open it > up for damage, destruction, etc but what do I know?!? Correct, keep it high and hidden. The craziest thing I ever saw on a 4x4 was on a Ford Bronco II (I believe but my memories failing could have been one of the GMC Jimmy things) - one of those late 80's versions I believe. The rear left brake line ran BELOW the axle to the rear wheel. I discovered this when I was at a "work site" where I was running along some railway lines to get to and from locations. The fellow with me was in this Bronco and couldn't make it across the rails because he was snagging and afraid of tearing the line. I couldn't believe it when I saw it and thereafter kept my eyes out and observed the same on a couple others following them on the freeway. cheers Jeremy ------------------------------[ <- Message 11 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970809 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sat, 09 Aug 1997 06:34:57 -0400 From: Matthew Wilson <bogatyr@pipeline.com> Subject: subscribe subscribe lro ---------------------------------------- | Everything needed something. | | Some things needed everything. | | Nothing needed nothing. | | -Peter Egan | ---------------------------------------- ------------------------------[ <- Message 12 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970809 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
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