Land Rover Owner Message Digest Contents


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msgSender linesSubject
1 Giles Warham [giles@g7tg25re: Series Land-Rover half-shafts
2 twakeman@scruznet.com (T29re: Series Land-Rover half-shafts
3 twakeman@scruznet.com (T30Quafe limited slips on sale
4 lopezba@atnet.at 125Restoration progress
5 bmc@syspac.com 23English car mechanic wanted, ARIZONA USA
6 David Cockey [dcockey@ti18Re: Quafe limited slips on sale
7 CIrvin1258@aol.com 56109 axle autopsy report...
8 "Davies, Scott" [sdavies36Re: Series One Parts
9 David L Glaser [dlglaser20Sighting
10 Steve Mace [steve@solwis36Proper LR Newsgroup
11 marsden@digicon-egr.co.u27Re: Proper LR Newsgroup


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Date: Sun, 27 Jul 1997 14:51:16 +0100 (BST)
From: Giles Warham <giles@g7tgr.demon.co.uk>
Subject: re: Series Land-Rover half-shafts

On Mon, 7 Jul 1997, Dixon Kenner wrote:

> > weak for a reason: they serve as a "fuse" for the differential and the rest
> > of the drive train.  They are easily replaced, relatively inexpensive and
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 9 lines)]
> this?  Is there anything to back this up from an engineering standpoint,
> or is this just a really good excuse for poor alloy?  Just curious.

I think they have - when testing the then 'new' S2a Forward Control, there
were extensive destructive tests performed on the half shafts to determine
the appropriate strength for production vehicles.  I presume the same
tests were performed on series 1's etc before going into production.
Many pre-production vehicles are tested pretty much to destruction and
then dismantled and examined for signs of weaknesses.

Best Regards, Giles.

------------------------ 
Land-Rover S1, S3, 101FC 
    The best 4x4xFAR 

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Date: Sun, 27 Jul 1997 08:45:41 -0700
From: twakeman@scruznet.com (TeriAnn Wakeman)
Subject: re: Series Land-Rover half-shafts

On Mon, 7 Jul 1997, Dixon Kenner wrote:

; My comment would be don't try, you might succeed.  Halfshafts are designed
; weak for a reason: they serve as a "fuse" for the differential and the rest

I've heard that story too many times.  Whats strange about the story is
that the axles crystalize over time and then break with comparitivly very
little stress, as I'm sure every one of us who broke an axle on pavement
pulling out from a stop and making a turn can testify.

Maybe there should be a big sign in the insturment panel warning the owner
to replace rear axles every 40K miles with new axles.

Evidently the factory finally decided that the standard LR axle was just
too fragile for a 109.  all 109s started coming from the factory with the
stronger salisbury rear ends when they switched over to series III.  I
agreed with them and switched over to a Salisbury.  So far I'm quite happy
with it.

TeriAnn Wakeman            For personal mail, please start subject line
Santa Cruz California      with TW.  I belong to 4 high volume mail lists
twakeman@scruznet.com      and do not read a lot of threads..Thanks

"The box said 'Requires Windows 95, or better.' So I bought a Macintosh."

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Date: Sun, 27 Jul 1997 09:14:06 -0700
From: twakeman@scruznet.com (TeriAnn Wakeman)
Subject: Quafe limited slips on sale

There are probably a lot of you who do not check the British Pacific web site.

It seems they have an inventory of Quafe limited slip units that they have
been unable to sell for $1200 ea.  So they have been selling them off for
$500 ea, which is about $200 less then they paid for them.  These are
forged steel limited slip units that can go on the rear and front standard
LR diffs.  According to their web page, they have two left in stock, enough
to do one car at both ends or two cars in the rear.

British Pacific is 800-554-4133

I couldn't resist saving $700 and purchasing a highly regarded limited slip
for $200 less than cost.  So I purchased one and had it installed on a good
diff by a local shop that does nothing except set up diffs.  The guy who
did the work was very impressed about the quality of the unit and the fact
that they use forged steel where the other companys used weaker cast steel.

The quafe will go on my front and I will pick up an ARB air locker for the
Salisbury rear.

TeriAnn Wakeman            For personal mail, please start subject line
Santa Cruz California      with TW.  I belong to 4 high volume mail lists
twakeman@scruznet.com      and do not read a lot of threads..Thanks

"The box said 'Requires Windows 95, or better.' So I bought a Macintosh."

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Date: Sun, 27 Jul 1997 21:39:12 +0200
From: lopezba@atnet.at
Subject: Restoration progress

Dear all, just to let you know what I am doing while you are all driving 
around in your Land-Rovers and having fun. But maybe first I need to tell 
you about history:

In March 1995 I came back from a birding excursion to the Seewinkel, an area 
about 80 km southeast of Vienna. There was a big traffic jam on the 
motorway, and I left at an earlier exit and drove into Vienna on the 
highway. I ought to mention that I had my annual attack of 4wd fever, but 
had managed to resist so far. In the outskirts of Vienna, I drove by a used 
car lot, and there, among Extremely Desirable VW minibusses and Mercedes 
transporters, was a Land-Rover! I knew next to nothing about these beasts, 
except that I had always wanted one from about age 14, and especially one 
with the lights on the grill instead of the wings. I slammed on the brakes, 
almost causing an accident, parked and ran back to ogle the vehicle. On the 
following Moday, I test drove it (the poor attendant almost froze to death 
since he didn't think we would drive very far), took it to the garage where 
my real car was always serviced, had them lift it up and crawled underneath 
it with a lamp, looking for I know not what. Anyway, what I saw looked 
pretty good, so I got it for 33.000 ATS - about 5.000 NLG then, or about 
16.000 DKR, 1.500 UKP (now) or 2.600 USD. It turned out to be a 1958 107 
inch Station Wagon, and it turned out to be almost complete and little 
modified. It came with the hard top and a canvas roof that was custom-made 
and looked pretty good. First I was just going to do a few things to make it 
run a little better and look a little prettier, but then I found out that 
these were comparatively rare beasts, and decided to restore it. Bad 
decision, I can tell you!

So first I found a garage in Apetlon, about a hundred km from Vienna and in 
the heart of my birdwatching area (the garage is in the basement and was 
totally unused, since a normal car would get stuck on the top and the bottom 
of the steep ramp - the L-R just went down the ramp and came up again like 
it had always lived there. Also, the owner had planned to put in one of 
these doors that swing up under the ceiling, but ran out of money and put a 
normal barn-type door in, so the door was also high enough for the L-R). I 
had quite a lot of tools from earlier brushes with older cars, but they were 
all metric, and the Series I is partly UNF and partly Whitworth/BSF, so I 
had to get all-new tools - always a pleasure. I also got a lot of 
literature, the most important components being reprints of the spare parts 
catalogue, the workshop manual and the owner's handbook. I subscribed to 
LROi and joined the Series I Club. Then I started taking the car apart.

>From the bulkhead back, everything but the rear axle and the propshaft has 
been dismantled now. The chassis will soon be ready for de-rusting (just 
superficial rust), painting and waxoyling. Today I was going to do three 
things: Put the modified exhaust on the vehicle in order to find out how the 
front pipe needs to be modified, remove the red and green paint from some 
galvanized parts of the body, and finally tackle the rear axle.

So first I put the body parts that needed stripping out in the sun to warm 
them up (the chemical stripper works better when parts are reasonably warm). 
Then I put the modified silencer on the chassis (the exhaust had been 
ordered from John Craddock, and did not quite fit the car - luckily I have 
quite a good company workshop at my disposal for a reasonable price). Their 
modification to the silencer worked pretty well, the intermediate pipe did 
not need any modification (somebody at Craddocks must have made a mistake), 
but the front pipe meets an outrigger instead of the intermediate pipe. So 
out came the angle grinder, and the offending end of the front pipe was cut 
off. By now the front screen and the doors that had been taking a sunbath 
were warm enough, I put stripper on the galvanized parts and let them sit in 
the shade for ten minutes while I returned to the exhaust. Then I found out 
that there was no way the end I had cut off could be fit to the front pipe 
in order to meet the intermediate pipe - the angle was wrong, and it would 
look stupid. And the workshop forman is on vacation for three weeks 
beginning tomorrow! Oh well, no big problem, there are many other things to 
be done in the meantime - like for instance dealing with the stripper that 
has been working away for the better part of thirty minutes!

I am still amazed how well that thing works. I had tried just scraping (bad 
for the galvanizing), heat and scraping (bad for the galvanizing) and a wire 
brush on the drill (bad for the galvanizing). The chemical stripper just 
eats the paint, and the remains can be washed off with water and stainless 
steel wool. The stripper is an aviation stripper, btw, since normal stripper 
damages both aluminum and galvanizing. So I washed the paint away, put the 
parts in the sun to dry, put stripper on two more parts, and let them lie in 
the shade for about ten minutes while I returned to the exhaust.

Well, it can't be helped. The front pipe will have to be bent slightly, and 
a straight piece of pipe will have to be welded on, and then the end of the 
old pipe will have to be welded on to that. By the time I had worked that 
out, it was time to deal with the stripped parts again. After that it was 
time for lunch. I usually have my lunch at Illmitz, close by Apetlon, at a 
very nice place, and after that I go out to a shallow saline lake close by 
to do a little birdwatching for about half an hour or so.

Back at the garage, I put some body parts out in the sun, started 
dismantling the silencer and the intermediate pipe, put some stripper on the 
body parts, took the silencer off, dealt with the stripper, put some 
stripper on other parts, took the intermediate pipe off, dealt with the 
stripper, put some stripper on other parts, took the front pipe off and so 
on. After a while there was no more excuse and I turned to the rear axle. 
First I needed to drain the oil. Now I have made it a policy never to drain 
oil unless I am sure I can open the filler plug, so doing that was the first 
task. I have no idea what kind of head the filler plug has - I suspect 15/32 
WW - but a 23 mm socket finally fit (my spanners only go to 22 mm). So now 
for the draining plug, which conveniently sits at the bottom of the 
differential and can be opened with a spanner inserted sideways in theory. I 
tried several, and they were either a little to thick or a little too 
skinny, and slipped out again. The "dogbone" with all the odd inserts for 
various drainer plugs did not fir either. Oh well, no problem, I have to 
take the axle off anyway, so I will deal with the problem when I can 
actually see what I am doing! So - next step: take off the propshaft.

The propshaft, as you will know, is fastened to the driving flange of the 
differential by four bolts with self-locking nuts. Theses nuts are so 
self-locking that I could only get one off. Needless to say, the U/J is 
constructed in such a way that you can not use a socket or a ring spanner, 
and with a normal spanner you can move about 15 degrees before you have to 
shift to the next angle, if you know what I mean. I got one nut off, but 
could not get the bolt out (the propshaft gets in the way), and none of the 
other nuts would budge. So I soaked them all in WD-40, put my tools back, 
tidied up and went home.

On the way home I did something extremely dangerous. There was a traffic jam 
on the motorway, so I just made an exit and drove into Vienna on the 
highway. This time, however, I did not look left or right, but kept my eyes 
on the road in front of me... This time, they would not get me!
Hope everybody had a nice weekend
Peter Hirsch
Vienna, Austria
Series One 107in Station Wagon (in bits and pieces)

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From: bmc@syspac.com
Date: Sun, 27 Jul 1997 12:51:26 -0700
Subject: English car mechanic wanted, ARIZONA USA

I hate to broadcast this out on the lists but we need to
hire a skilled English car mechanic to fill an immediate
need.  We work strictly British marques.  We do service,
restoration, parts and  consignment car sales.  From the old
cars to the new ones. The shop is a clean busy six bay
garage with a outside compound.  We are located centrally in
Phoenix Arizona.  The position is for a mechanic,  later
will become a working shop manager . The applicant should
have all around shop and management skills.  Would consider
partnership for the right person. Must not be afraid to work
as we have more work than we can handle (we have been
turning work away.)  Hand tools are must, reference matter
is helpful.

Contact Jon Nyhus,  British Motor Classics, Ltd.  Phoenix,
AZ  85051  602.995.2028,  Fax  995.1909  E-mail
bmc@syspac.com

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Date: Sun, 27 Jul 1997 21:35:07 -0400
From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com>
Subject: Re: Quafe limited slips on sale

> The quafe will go on my front and I will pick up an ARB air locker for
> the
> Salisbury rear.

Sounds like a great setup for slow speed off-road use but a limited slip
front differential can be nasty on the road. If one wheel loses traction
the torque will be transferred to the other wheel. Given the offset
between king pin axis and center of the tire contact patch, the steering
wheel may have a nasty kick from the uneven pull on the front tires.
This will be aggravated with larger offset wheels.

Regards,
David Cockey

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From: CIrvin1258@aol.com
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 1997 02:26:50 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: 109 axle autopsy report...

I have fixed my truck, and have pretty much determined the cause of death of
the rear-end that came out of my 109:

Apparently, the damage was caused, in most part, by pre-existing damage to
the axle housing, that was not detected when new springs were installed last
year. I found that, the holes in the spring pads on the housing, for the
locating pegs in the leaf springs, were elongated, the one on the right-hand
side, having been in that condition for quite some time (rust in the entire
area, indicating the damage to be "old"), whilst the one on the left-hand
side, being recent.(no rust on it)

Both rear shocks were NOT the correct length when fully extended, but were
rather, approximately 2 1/2 inches too short, causing the lower shock
mounting holes to become elongated as well.

The right-rear brake was in fact, dragging. This was evident by the heat
damage visible on the brake shoes (slight bubbling, and shoes covered with
brake dust-like substance, on the actual surface of the shoes). The heat was
such, that the seals on BOTH wheel cylinders, had dry-rotted (these seals
having been replaced last year, along with the leaf springs).

All 4 U bolts had a substantial amound of metal removed from the tops of
them, but were still intact, though I can now probably break one by hand.The
nuts on the ends of them, had the nylon "heated" out of them!

So, in a nutshell, we had a pre-existing elongated hole on the axle housing,
which caused the entire assembly to move fore and aft, coupled with the
too-short shocks pulling the axle housing up, and the new leaf springs
pulling the axle down, all the while this madness is being exagerated by the
dragging brake, resulting in the top of the axle housing recieving two gouges
measuring about 1 inch deep (yes, you can see inside the housing through
them!), and two gouges on the left side, measuring about 1/4 inch. It turns
out, that the damage was more like cutting, than melting, as was originally
thought, though the heat damage is clearly visible, and all wear is very
smooth.

The wheel bearings are in excellent condition, as is the diff (though I
replaced the wheel bearings anyway - just in case). Due to the cause of
death, I DEFINATELY checked the replacement housing, before installation!

All parts replaced, and the truck is happy again.

I would guess, that the original damage was caused by loose/missing U bolts
(which, there were some missing, when I got the truck, though I didn't think
it had been driven in that condition...then again, it did come from South
Africa) - make sure yours are tight, and that you have the correct length
shocks, and no dragging brakes, and hopefully, the same thing WON'T happen to
you.

Charles

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From: "Davies, Scott" <sdavies@monetpost.stdavids.ncr.com>
Subject: Re: Series One Parts
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 97 08:40:00 PDT

The new August issue: front cover, page 5, page 12 and page 66.
You really can't miss it :-)

Scott Davies '85 110 2.5D HT
 ----------
From: Michael Carradine
Subject: Re: Series One Parts
Date: 25 July 1997 10:36

URL: http://WWW.Land-Rover.Team.Net/

At 07:16 PM 7/25/97 +0200, lopezba@atnet.at wrote:
:
:Dear fellow Roverites, just in case you have not seen LROi: Dunsfold
:Land-Rovers have acquired a lot of genuine MoD Series One parts, so supply
:should be assured for some years to come. I am really glad they and not
:Craddock got the cache!
:Have a nice weekend
:Peter Hirsch
:Vienna, Austria
:Series One 107in Station Wagon (in bits and pieces)

 Hi Peter,

 What issue of LROi and what page or article are you refering to?

 -Michael "SI newbie" Carradine

 50-80 RHD ex-Ministry of Supply  ...and it runs!!

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Date: Mon, 28 Jul 1997 04:32:39 -0400
From: David L Glaser <dlglaser@wam.umd.edu>
Subject: Sighting

At about 7:30 pm, Sunday, in up-state New York, I saw a pastel green

Series III wagon.  It was at the Exxon station on Route 17 across from

the Monticello Race Track.  Anyone on the list?

Rover On,

David Glaser

'94 La Ruta Maya Discovery #6

'94 Discovery, Teal

'93 Eddy Merckx, Team 7-eleven, with Campy c-reccord

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Date: Mon, 28 Jul 97 08:43:45 PDT
From: Steve Mace <steve@solwise.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Proper LR Newsgroup

Could I please ask this group what their opinion would be of a proper LR Newsgroup (i.e. NOT a mailing list like this is)?

Ths LRO list is very good but it lacks several features and advantages which a proper news group has. e.g. Proper hierarchal message lists (so the replies from mail postings are displayed in a hierarchal format rather than having to search down lists for replies to particular postings). Also the ability to only download to you PC those message which appear to be of interest from the subject heading. Simply post and mail reply procedures. Ability to include images and other binaries etc...

If anyone wants to try out a newsgroup then please try attaching to 

uk.rec.cars.4x4

This should give a flavour of what a newsgroup can offer. There is also a similar US group

rec.autos.4x4

If you are using Netscape then just bring up your browser and select Window/Netscape News. Then on the news window select File/Add Newsgroup. Then type in the name of the newsgroup (as above). On Internet Explower click on mail/read news and follow much the same procedures; sorry I don't use IE so I'm not too hot on the exact menuitems. If you need any help then you can email me direct.

I would be interested in hearing your thoughts on this.

Thanks...

Steve

1972 SII LightWeight
1993 D90
-------------------------------------
Name: Dr Steve Mace
E-mail: steve@solwise.demon.co.uk
www: http://www.demon.co.uk/solwise/
Tel: +44 1482 473899
Fax: +44 1482 472245
Date: 28/07/97
Time: 08:43:45
-------------------------------------

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From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Re: Proper LR Newsgroup
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 97 9:50:45 BST

> Could I please ask this group what their opinion would be of a proper LR Newsgroup (i.e. NOT a mailing list like this is)?

This has come up before. My objections originally were that newsgroups tend to 
attract more junk. A listserver is easier to moderate, and people *can* be
chucked off.

> Ths LRO list is very good but it lacks several features and advantages which a proper news group has. e.g. Proper hierarchal message lists (so the replies from mail postings are displayed in a hierarchal format rather than having to search down lists for replies to particular postings). Also the ability to only download to you PC those message which appear to be of interest from the subject heading. Simply post and mail reply procedures. Ability to include images and other binaries etc...

This depends an awful lot on the systems in use. I don't have access to
a mail or usenet reader that can select which items I read before downloading.
Although I have access to a hierarchial news reader (via my private
dial-up account), I find the hierachial bit as good as useless. Usenet
loses messages, and replies tend to arrive before the original message.

I currently subscribe to the LRO lists via work - ie. I don't pay. There's
no usenet access at work (okay, that's just for me - not everyone else on the
list).

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)
PS: Anyone want a SO2 factory, sorry, I meant "plastic box of sulphuric
acid"?

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