[ First Message Last | Table of Contents | <- Digest -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
| msg | Sender | lines | Subject |
| 1 | Tony Treace [atreace@HAS | 23 | Series 1 Carb Question |
| 2 | Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lo | 15 | Re: Series 1 Carb Question |
| 3 | "Adams, Bill" [badams@us | 13 | Alexandria, VA British car show this wknd.. |
| 4 | "Faure, Marin" [Marin.Fa | 32 | [not specified] |
| 5 | "DAN PRASADA-RAO (301)75 | 12 | Re: Alexandria, VA British car show this wknd.. |
| 6 | "Faure, Marin" [Marin.Fa | 39 | [not specified] |
| 7 | David Russell [David_R@m | 18 | Re: Alexandria, VA British car show this wknd.. |
| 8 | Paul Quin [Paul_Quin@pml | 96 | Bleeding CB Type Master Cylinders. |
| 9 | Jan Ben [ben@lucent.com> | 11 | anybody getting an order from UK? |
| 10 | "Russell G. Dushin" [dus | 61 | a tip on CB masters |
| 11 | David Cockey [dcockey@ti | 22 | Re: habitual reviving of intended donor vehicles |
| 12 | Solihull@aol.com | 37 | Solihull@AOL.Com has moved |
From: Tony Treace <atreace@HASimons.com> Subject: Series 1 Carb Question Date: Thu, 24 Jul 1997 07:15:05 -0700 Here's a question for Series 1 aficionados: My 1951 80 still has the original 1595cc engine, but the original Solex 32PB11 carburetor has been replaced with an equally ancient American-made Carter WO (of unknown origin). Can anyone suggest a suitable/obtainable replacement? The Solex from my 2.25 is too large, and I would like to avoid paying John Craddock close to $400US for an original built from spare parts....... Options? Anyone have an old Solex 32PB11 gathering dust? Thanks, Tony Treace atreace@hasimons.com 1966 109SW 'The Big Rover' 1951 80 HT 'The Little Rover' ------------------------------[ <- Message 2 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970725 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Thu, 24 Jul 1997 10:23:43 -0400
Subject: Re: Series 1 Carb Question
A 1.6 liter carb should be easy enough to come by - talk to a local
carburettor shop. I'm sure there's some Rover beast of similar vintage (or
an MG or similar example of ambulatory spare parts) that could provide a
usable if not proper replacement.
Why not just rebuild the Carter? They weren't the greatest carb in the
world, but this shouldn't be a nightmare.
Alan
------------------------------
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]Date: Thu, 24 Jul 1997 10:43:23 -0400 From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov> Subject: Alexandria, VA British car show this wknd.. Details forthcoming from Spenny. Lets take this event and make it our own. Bill Adams 3D Artist/Animator '66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon, '81 Honda Goldwing 1100 Standard: "Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching" ------------------------------[ <- Message 4 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970725 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Faure, Marin" <Marin.Faure@PSS.Boeing.com> Date: Thu, 24 Jul 1997 08:39:20 -0700 >From: "Mathew Stace" <landyman@hotmail.com> >Subject: SIIA Gearbox + Bang = No Forward Motion [ truncated by list-digester (was 11 lines)] >The IIA 'box has an overdrive, which I could sell to finance a more >expensive later 'box if one would fit. Someone else mentioned half shafts. You also might check to see if the drive gear to the overdrive stripped. This happened to me as a result of the overdrive being driven once too often with not enough oil in it. The results were exactly as you described; engage the clutch and there is a bang and you go nowhere. What happens is the teeth on the little overdrive drive gear at the back of the transmission output shaft break. Unfortunately, this usually ruins the mating teeth on the inside of the overdrive input shaft, so you end up having to rebuild the overdrive. But getting the vehicle running again is simply a matter of removing the overdrive, reinstalling the original transfer case drive gear on the transmission output shaft, and replacing the original PTO cover plate which also supports the rear of the transmission output shaft. You're now back to the way the vehicle was when it left the factory. __________________ C. Marin Faure faurecm@halcyon.com marin.faure@pss.boeing.com (original owner) 1973 LR Series III-88 1991 RR Vogue SE ------------------------------[ <- Message 5 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970725 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 24 Jul 1997 12:04:11 -0400 (EDT) From: "DAN PRASADA-RAO (301)757-1479 X26" <prasadaraodp.nimitz@NAVAIR.NAVY.MIL> Subject: Re: Alexandria, VA British car show this wknd.. >>Details forthcoming from Spenny. Lets take this event and make it our >>own. [ truncated by list-digester (was 11 lines)] >>'81 Honda Goldwing 1100 Standard: >>"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching" I love a good coup. I'll look for the details from Spenny ------------------------------[ <- Message 6 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970725 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Faure, Marin" <Marin.Faure@PSS.Boeing.com> Date: Thu, 24 Jul 1997 09:29:41 -0700 >Date: Wed, 2 Jul 1997 22:17:56 -0400 >From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice) [ truncated by list-digester (was 11 lines)] >with the Permatexed, broken off stub of a pencil. Worked fine for 10,000 >miles. Cheers My US-spec 1973 Series III has three things on it that affect the idle speed. One is the throttle stop screw on the rear of the Zenith 36IV carburetor. One is the idle mixture screw on the front corner of the carburetor. Finally, there is the idle fuel cutoff solenoid, also on the front corner of the carburetor. There is no adjustment on the carburetor that affects the running mixture. This is done by changing the main jet. Land Rover used to supply a jet kit for setting the carburetor up for different altitudes. I bought one of these kits when I bought the vehicle; it came in a fitted wooden box of a quality you never see these days. I still have it, although I have never had reason to change the jets. While I have long since removed the primitive emission control equipment from my Land Rover I have retained the idle cutoff solenoid as it eliminates any chance of dieseling which can be extremely hard on an engine. In fact, I wired the solenoid to its own switch on the instrument panel and I use that to shut off the engine instead of the key. The engine dies immediately without a hint of dieseling, after which I turn off the key. Even though I've removed the emission equipment I have retained the higher and smoother idle speed of 750 rpm, so dieseling can be a problem. It probably isn't at the correct non-emission idle speed of 500 rpm. __________________ C. Marin Faure faurecm@halcyon.com marin.faure@pss.boeing.com (original owner) 1973 LR Series III-88 1991 RR Vogue SE ------------------------------[ <- Message 7 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970725 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 24 Jul 1997 12:43:47 -0400 (EDT) From: David Russell <David_R@mindspring.com> Subject: Re: Alexandria, VA British car show this wknd.. Details!!, I want details!! At 10:43 -0400 7/24/97, Adams, Bill wrote: >Details forthcoming from Spenny. Lets take this event and make it our >own. [ truncated by list-digester (was 8 lines)] >'81 Honda Goldwing 1100 Standard: >"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching" David Russell http://www.mindspring.com/~david_r David_R@mindspring.com SIIA, SD, Z3(wife's), FJ40, Wicked Fat Chance, Davidson Impulse, Road Shark ------------------------------[ <- Message 8 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970725 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Subject: Bleeding CB Type Master Cylinders.
Date: Thu, 24 Jul 1997 10:07:48 -0700
Thank you to all who replied to my plea for help RE: bleeding CB type
master cylinders.
For the benefit of the entire list, here is a summary of the replies:
*************************************
park with the front end up so that the master cylinderis horizontal.
ramps
&/or jacks will make it easier.
Be Happy
Barrie
94 D-90 FOR SALE
60 SII Rugbeater
*************************************
OK, enough about elevating the front of the truck when bleeding the
brakes...it's just not necessary. In fact, it adds a dangerous aspect
to
the task, as the front of the vehicle would have to be about 3 feet
off
the ground to get the MC horizontal, which is at best precarious.
What is most effective is an assistant who is capable of pumping up
the
pressure in the line so that when the bleed screw is cracked open, a
rush
of fluid blasts out. This has the effect of swirling the fluid in the
MC
and other parts of the system so that the tiniest of air bubbles get
washed through (Pressure bleeding, or vacuum bleeding both do more or
less the same thing).
If you are doing the job alone, have a length of tree branch handy
that
you can use to jam the pedal in the down position after you've pumped
up
the pedal. Then shinny under the truck and crack open the bleed screw.
After you've done that ten or twelve times on each wheel, you begin to
appreciate why it's a good idea to stay on the good side of your
neighbors.
Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon,
'81 Honda Goldwing 1100 Standard:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"
************************************************************
Hi Paul
I also have a 1961 SWB Series II with the CB master and it truely was
a
pain in the butt to bleed. Actually I still haven't gotten all the
air
out but I will live with the double pump until the memory of bleeding
fades or my leg gets tired. Many people recomend jacking the front of
the Rover up to get the Master as level as possible, this didn't work
too well for me. The best thing that I found was to pressure bleed it.
I
used an old cap from another master, a pin used for filling
basketballs
that I poked thru the cap, some rubber from a tire tube on the inside
of
the cap to seal the pin to the cap, and a little electric tire
inflator.
I pumped the pressure up to between 5 and 10 lbs and then opened up
one
bleeder valve. I usually pumped the pressure up 2 or 3 times for each
wheel before checking to make sure that I didn't bleed the resovoir
empty and eventually I got a decent pedal (although the last time I
did
it I still have air in there somewhere). Also make sure that the
brake
shoes are adjusted, I had a lot of trouble doing that simple thing,
but
when I had the shoes right the peddal was much better.
I hope this helps, and good luck.
Keith
***********************************************************************
Bench bleed it, ie fill it with brake fluid while horizontal so
there is no air in there. The air trapped in the cylinder is there
biggest problem. (or raise the front wnd of the LR three and a half
feet
(thereabouts) so the master is level when you bleed.
------------------------------
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]Date: Thu, 24 Jul 1997 14:07:57 -0400 From: Jan Ben <ben@lucent.com> Subject: anybody getting an order from UK? I am being ethnocentric of course.. I mean an order from UK to USA.. I need a $2 item, and don't feel like paying $30 in shipping charges.. Please let me know.. thanks Jan in the US of A ------------------------------[ <- Message 10 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970725 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Russell G. Dushin" <dushinrg@pr.Cyanamid.COM> Subject: a tip on CB masters Date: Thu, 24 Jul 97 17:36:21 EDT Kind but Deranged Souls- Checking the hourly digest as I oftimes do these days I see that some are having trouble with their CB masters. By now you've all figured out that there's air in there...and you've stared at the pictures in your manuals and tilted the book 26.3 degrees off the horizontal and concluded, as I did, that there's a pocket of air trapped up top, right? OK, here's some hints...exerpts of something written for the OVLR newsletter awhile back. Give it a shot. One word of advice, though....make sure your adjusters are adjusted first...you'll have a two (three?) pump system if they aren't. ******** snip (the BS intro)... Bench bleeding the CB master was a breeze, but putting the bled master back onto the pedal box ass'y and then putting the pedal box onto the bulkhead seemed to be a damned near impossible task to perform without dowsing myself in Catrol LMA (and sucking air back into the once bled master). (just to let you know the bench bleeding ain't worth the trouble, IMO) snip,snip For those who've tried and failed six million times as I have to get the air out of a CB master without resorting to violence (or using a crane) here's one way I finally found that works like a charm. Simple, really, and obvious, too, though perhaps not for those whose idea of recreation is in line with my own. First, ya gotta be able to move the pedal box about without putting undue stress on the lines (I figure that thirty some odd year old lines just don't want to be torqued too much). To do this, remove the six flat head screws that hold the rusted reservoir's mounting bracket to the pedal box ass'y (ie. the plate that covers the adjusting nuts on the master cylinder pushrod) so that the pedal box will move more or less independantly of the lines. If you're anal about your paint work, stuff a rag around your master cylinder to catch the fluids that are gonna drip out. Then loosen the line coming out of the master cylinder heading for the brakes (a proper six point 7/16" tubing wrench is highly reccommended if not essential) and retighten it just enough so that it won't leak. Next remove the six bolts holding the pedal box to the bulkhead and fiddle with the pedal box until the master is just past level. You've got to manouver it up and around the steering box to do this, hopefully without putting undue stress on your lines. Crack the outgoing line again and watch for air coming out with the fluids. Whack the master ever so gently with a chunck of wood or plastic mallet as you watch with glee when tiny air bubbles appear. Tighten the line up and bolt it all back together. Bleed 'em (in the proper order) and yer done. When I did this to Nige, I got about a teaspoon's worth of air out, and the brakes were right there. rd/nige ------------------------------[ <- Message 11 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970725 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 24 Jul 1997 20:34:55 -0400
From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com>
Subject: Re: habitual reviving of intended donor vehicles
Adrian Redmond wrote:
> The manifold and exhaust is interesting -
> instead of the downpipe arrangement which I am used to - the pipe
> dissappears through the wing, then under the car - is this a usual
> early
> SIII arrangement?
The exhaust with the pipe exiting through the wing above the frame, and
then going through the wheel well to under the vehicle was used with
petrol engines through SII ('61) and with diesel engines through early
SIII ('74 or so). It was the standard arrangement. Note that the exhaust
manifolds and front pipes are not interchangeable between diesel and
petrol LRs.
Regards,
David Cockey
------------------------------
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]From: Solihull@aol.com Date: Thu, 24 Jul 1997 22:00:44 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Solihull@AOL.Com has moved Hi, all! Just a short note to let everyone know I've moved. Now located near Canton, GA. We bought a few acres, zoned agricultural, and I think I'll build a shop to work on my... agricultural vehicles, yeah! that the ticket! On foggy mornings, I can look out the front window and see deer grazing in the field below. I'll be looking for shop equipment, such as floor lift, tire changer, compressor bigger than the six horse, sixty gallon one I've got. I've got a 109 to reframe by thanksgiving and the slab isn't even poured yet! Oy Vay! Add to that my bride has to have surgury for a hole in her heart (Atrial Septal Defect) on monday, 28th. We covet the prayers from those of y'all who do that. Has anyone heard about the Belize trip? I want to know how Nell, the 60-78ish SWB, is doing. Tom Allen, his sons, Ian and Sean, and even his wife, Deb, replaced the frame, engine and trans in my driveway, over the six weeks prior. I mostly supervised, re-plumbed the brakes, and tried to keep up with my tools. Betty Jo was more than gracious, as we littered the yard with birmabright, a lot of which is still there. Kinda tough to sell the old place... Cheers!! John Dillingham near Canton, GA KF4NAS LROA #1095 73 s3 swb 25902676b DD "Pansy" 72 s3 swb 25900502a rusted, in suspended animation Looking for a P5 project, well, OK, or a P6 or another SD1 Vintage Rover Service, since 1994, where we say: Land Rovers for Agriculture! Land Rovers for Industry! Land Rovers for Recreation! Land Rovers forever!! D.V. ------------------------------[ <- Message 13 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970725 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
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