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From: Deezilbob@aol.com
Date: Sun, 29 Jun 1997 09:35:31 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: torque setting

In a message dated 97-06-29 07:24:22 EDT, you write:

 
 I can not find the torque setting for the special nut that goes on the
 transmission output shaft.  All I find in the manual is "reverse the
 procedure"
 
 Its a IIA transmission.
 
 an ASAP reply would be most helpful
 
 Thanks
  >>
gearbox------output flange nut, 85 lb.ft; layshaft nut, 75 lb.ft; layshaft
bolt (series 3), 60 lb.ft

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Jun 1997 09:02:01 -0700
From: twakeman@scruznet.com (TeriAnn Wakeman)
Subject: Re: torque setting

At  9:35 AM 6/29/97 -0400, Deezilbob@aol.com wrote:

>> I can not find the torque setting for the special nut that goes on the
;> transmission output shaft.  All I find in the manual is "reverse the
:> procedure"
:>
:> Its a IIA transmission.
:
>gearbox------output flange nut, 85 lb.ft; layshaft nut, 75 lb.ft; layshaft
>bolt (series 3), 60 lb.ft
;
Thanks for the info.  I'll write it down on the inside cover of my vol I manual.

It'll come in handy when I remove the overdrive gear from the main output
shaft and put the original gear back on today.

I spend seven unsuccessful hours trying to jiggle the OD & gears to get the
splines to match yesterday.  I install new studs on the back today then
give it one more try before giving up.  Installing a new OD is not supposed
to be this difficult.

TeriAnn Wakeman            For personal mail, please start subject line
Santa Cruz California      with TW.  I belong to 4 high volume mail lists
twakeman@scruznet.com      and do not read a lot of threads..Thanks

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Jun 1997 13:05:51 -0700
From: "Clinton D. Coates" <Clinton_Coates@bc.sympatico.ca>
Subject: output shaft torque setting

When I had the jumpy jittery speedo last year and asked about it, someone 
said (AJR, i think) that the output nut was supposed to be torqued to 
about 85 Ft-Lbs.  Not having a torque wrench at the time, I just gave it 
a good snugging down with my flex bar.  So far it is fine.  I keep 
meaning to hit it properly now that I have a torque wrench now...

Regards

Clinton

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Jun 1997 18:37:51 -0400
From: "David M. Schwarz" <dschwarz@pipeline.com>
Subject: Re: GPS at last!

How many of us are using GPS?  The U.S.Coast and Geodetic Survey has
published the seven and a half minute maps on CD.  
Here's a quote from http://www-nmd.usgs.gov/nsdi/html/drg.html,  
"Each CD-R includes the USGS topographic maps for a 1-degree cell. For the
contiguous States plus Hawaii, the cells will usually contain sixty-four
1:24,000-scale files, two 1:100,000-scale files, and one 1:250,000-scale
file. For Alaska, the cells will usually contain thirty-two 1:63,360-scale
files and one 1:250,000-scale file. Variability in the number of files and
area covered occurs over irregularly shaped land masses; for example,
1-degree cells that encompass coastal areas may include fewer files. "  The
CD's cost thirty odd dollars each.  With one of these CD's a moving map
program such as Fugawi and a GPS receiver capable of serial output which
you can connect to a laptop, you can navigate on or off the road with ease.
 On the road navigation is even less expensive.  Programs such as DeLorme's
Street Atlas and even Map 'n' Go will work with a GPS.  With Street Atlas,
or a number of other similar programs, you could navigate across the United
States with a passenger under a hood telling you where to turn.  
David, dschwarz@pipeline.com

------------------------------

From: RoverNut@aol.com
Date: Sun, 29 Jun 1997 18:13:16 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Installation of Electrical

Hi Guys, 
Sorry about cross-posting (let me slide, it's my first time), but I have a
question that needs to answered fairly quickly:

Scenario:
Driving IIa. Starts making metallic, scrapy noise. Headlights dim drastically
on my way home a few nights later. It's obviously the dynamo and I BARELY
make it home. Order new dynamo and install it (incidentally, Atl. Brit. is
MUCH cheaper than the rest this time). Crank started and drove it for 30
minutes - no problem. Tried to start later, but no dice.

Now the question - quite rudimentary I might add:
Can batteries get so discharged that they can't be properly recharged by the
engine? The battery is 3 months old. I don't want to recharge it and run out
of steam someplace inconveinient. Does the dynamo need to be "initialized"
some how? If so, by what means?

Thanks! And you can Email me directly if you'd like.

Alex Maiolo
69 IIa
89 Rangie

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Jun 1997 18:17:01 -0500 (EST)
From: David Scheidt <david@math.earlham.edu>
Subject: Re: Installation of Electrical

On Sun, 29 Jun 1997 RoverNut@aol.com wrote:

> Now the question - quite rudimentary I might add:
> Can batteries get so discharged that they can't be properly recharged by the
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 6 lines)]
> of steam someplace inconveinient. Does the dynamo need to be "initialized"
> some how? If so, by what means?

A Lead-acid battery is a bunch of lead plates in acid.  When current is
drawn from the battery, a chemical reaction occurs (the chemistry of which
escapes me), and electrons flow.  The speed of this reaction, and thus the
ammount of current that can be drawn, is largely deterimined by the area
of Pb exposed to the acid.  Automotive batteries, which are generally used
only to start the car, need to have very high output, but not for very
long.  This is on the order of 300 Amps for 5  seconds.  To do this, they
have lead plates that have a lattice structure (think sponge here).  This
gives them a very high current/Pb ratio.  The problem  with this design is
that these batteries don't cycle very well.  Lead ions migrate away from
the plates during discharge, and back to them during recharge.  This is
not completely reversable, and the structure tends to degrade over the
life of the battery, further reducing capacity.  I don't know what claimed
capacity most batteries is, but it has been my experiance that even good
ones are pretty worthless after 10-20 85% discharges, which is near the
point you aren't producing enough voltage to make a spark.  
It is also likely that if you depleted your battery to 60 or 70% that you
didn't run the truck long enough to recharge it well.  A Lucas dyanmo,
even one in proper condition, doesn't produce that much current.  If you
were also running lights and radio, it is almost possible to drain the
battery.  

David Scheidt
--------
David_Scheidt@math.earlham.edu

yip yip yip yap yap yak yap yip *BANG*  -- no terrier

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Jun 1997 16:23:27 -0700
From: Chris Dow <dow@thelen.org>
Subject: Re: Installation of Electrical

RoverNut@aol.com wrote:
> Now the question - quite rudimentary I might add:
> Can batteries get so discharged that they can't be properly recharged by the
> engine? The battery is 3 months old. I don't want to recharge it and run out
> of steam someplace inconveinient. Does the dynamo need to be "initialized"
> some how? If so, by what means?

I experienced the same phenomenon when I rewired my IIA.  Somewhere in
there, my generator went out, and my battery went with it.  I ended up
replacing the generator with an alternator, too.  The sequence was: 
Generator goes out, replace with alternator, alternator unable to charge
battery, replace battery, evtherying is fine (for nine months now).  So,
replace your battery.  I highly recommend replacing the generator with
an alternator and converting to -VE (this CAN be cheaper), but if you've
just installed a good generator, don't worry about it.

C

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Jun 1997 17:10:34 -0700
From: Chris Dow <dow@thelen.org>
Subject: Re: Installation of Electrical

David Scheidt wrote:
> It is also likely that if you depleted your battery to 60 or 70% that you
> didn't run the truck long enough to recharge it well.  A Lucas dyanmo,
> even one in proper condition, doesn't produce that much current.  If you
> were also running lights and radio, it is almost possible to drain the
> battery.

...which is why I switched to a Delco alternator.....

C

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Jun 1997 02:36:16 +0200
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Subject: SIII Coolant quandries
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Here's a brain-twister for the coolant-theoraticians amongst you all -
it's a real-life question regarding my 109".

About two weeks ago the temp. needle started reading HOT - almost in the
red on normal driving, in the red on top speed. I suspected thermostat,
but on the advice of someone from the list, I did check the temp. sender
unit and discovered that sometimes this showed HOT even when the engine
was cold and not running - therefore I ordered a new sender and
dismissed the problem as a phantom.

Today the wife took the family out for the day in the 109" (without me)
and she called to say that the engine compartm,ent was full of steam and
water and the coolant was dripping faster from the bottom of the
radiator than she could fill it with a coke-bottle at the top. To be
safe i had her get the vehicle towed (carried) home. In the heat of the
moment (?) I forgot to ask her what the temp guage reading was.

When the car arrived it was clear from seeing the engine compartment
that water had been getting out of the system - the whole lot was wet
and dirty - but not rusty-looking. I washed the engine compartment and
rad. and let the car dry out in the sun. A few hours later I moved the
car into the workshop, onto a clean dry floor so i wuld be able to see
any "new" water marks on the floor.

I started her, and ran the engine for 10-15 mins, after which time there
was a very small splash on the floor - less than a spoonfull of water i
would guess. I stopped the engine and let the car stand, placing a
wash-bowl over the drip on the floor. After an hour there was about half
a pint of coolant in the bowl. I opended the rad. cap to examine the
level, and the leak worsened (air in the system). Under the car - I
could see dripping from the rad bottom, but can't see where it's coming
from. But it doesn't seem to be hoses, pump or thermostat-casting. they
are all dry as a bone (well a dry bone anyway)

I tried starting the car again, and the leak stopped again for a while,
but once the motor was warm (guage over the N normal mark) the leak
started again.

I have poured a whole bottle of Radweld into the system - an english
organic pine-based snake oil which has worked wonders for me on previous
radiators. Prestor - within twenty minutes the leak stops (no I have not
lost ALL the coolant!)

My conclusions are as follows -

1.	Temperature sender may have had an intermittent fault, but is working
OK now. This fault could have been caused by running hot for a long
time. (?)

2.	Radiator has a leak which is worse under high temperature/pressure,
Radweld seems to have solved this (maybe only temporarily ?)

3.	But something caused the problem to begin with - the engine has been
running hotter than usual for a while, before the guage fault was
diagnosed when engine not working. I have removed the thermostat and
will see tomorrow if she runs cooler. My impression is that the stat
doesn't open (at least when placed in 80° C water, and the stat and top
hos look as if they have not been busy for a while (I could see no
traces of Radweld gunk above the stat and inside the hose).

Any clues to the cause? I hve checked all cooling-system related parts -
and the pump seems to be working - no slipping fan-belt, and no noisy
pump bearing. Referance to the manuals (Offical and Haynes) reveals one
other element - possible distributor pump timing fault? How?

(This could be a pointer - last week when my gearbox was repaired
(remember that one?) I asked my mechanic to check the dist.pump timing
as it was smoking a little on idle - he said when I collected the car
that he had tried, but the pump wouldn't turn much more. And since I
feel that the smoke has got worse, and there are signs of black smoke
under load - something new to this engine which was rebuilt only two and
a half years ago. Could the timing be out and the engine is running too
hot for that reason?

As usual - all tips, advice, theories, ideans, blind-beliefs and proven
truths welcome at this address...

 
Adrian Redmond

---------------------------------------------------
CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
---------------------------------------------------
telephone (office)		    +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)		    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data		    +45 76 57 24 46
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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Jun 1997 21:16:55 -0700
From: "Clinton D. Coates" <Clinton_Coates@bc.sympatico.ca>
Subject: 127 and Hi Cap box dimensions

Does anyone know what the dimensions are for the boxes on the 127 and Hi 
Capacity 110 trucks?  I am curious if they would fit a quad or not.  
Probably the 127 box wouldn't, but a custom box might.

Clinton "Thinking that 1998 is coming up pretty fast" Coates

------------------------------

From: "Beckett, Ron" <rbeckett@nibupad.telstra.com.au>
Subject: CB Channels (was: Re: See You at the Downeast!)
Date: Mon, 30 Jun 1997 09:27:00 +1000

At  6:00 PM 6/28/97 -0700, Uncle Roger wrote:

>What channel it is doesn't matter too much to me, but I would really
like to
;see a standard LR channel so that if you're tooling along in unfamiliar
;territory and spot a LR, you could switch on the CB to channel <X> and
>they'd be there too.
;
TeriAnn replied
>All the mendo group LR runs seem to be on ch 7.  All the Triumph club
runs
>are ch 7.  Maybe ch 7 is becoming the norm for British cars with CBs.

In Australia, the 4WD club seem to use Ch 5.

>Of course Roger, there is one other problem.  I generally don't have my
>radio turned on unless I'm on a run with other cars with radios

Neither Do I.  I often travel with my 12 yo daughter and I don't want
all
the obscenities that seem to go with CB use Down Under (except 4Wders
of course.)  Normally one would listen to the Truck channel 8 to hear
where the traffic problems and police are but, again, the F word is too
common for my preference.  (I'm not a prude, I just don't swear in
front of children or women).  As a friend of mine once said, swearing
is a sign of a poor vocabulary.

Ron

------------------------------

From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Re: J**P
Date: Mon, 30 Jun 97 10:34:49 BST

> Maked Lucas Prince of Darkness seem like a treasured friend by comparison.

Got my headlights in. Considering the wire colours bore no resemblence the 
the (military) handbook and I didn't have the pin outs on the new Lucas
Halogens, they work. Only thing is that dipped and full-beam are swapped...

This morning's problem, was that the clutch fluid had decided to join the
oil on the driveway. Topped it up, and everything worked fine, but I think
its a new slave cylinder. I just happen to have a new one lying around,
but not the copper piping (sod's law says the pipe joint has seized), so it
might take a few days before I fit it..

Silly Question: #435:

So, how *do* you declutch?  (just in-case I lose all the fluid at the lights
or something)

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR - I can see where I'm not going)

------------------------------

From: "Huub Pennings" <pennings@kfih.azr.nl>
Date: Mon, 30 Jun 1997 11:41:13 +0100
Subject:       Minerva?????

Hellow Guys and Girls,

Over this weekend something amazing happened, I have located a source 
for ex military Belgium Land Rovers type "88 SIII   with ragtops.
This guy is offering them for 4000 gulders wich is approx. us$ 2200
including registration (Grey or white registration).
What are the snags here?????????!!!!!!!!!!!
Might they be Minerva's?? How can I distinguish them?
Anyone interested, and or knowledgeable on this subject???

 
Regards,

Huub Pennings

e-mail adress
Pennings@kfih.azr.nl

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