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Date: Mon, 30 Jun 1997 08:49:05 -0400
From: Keith Mohlenhoff <krm@nj.paradyne.com>
Subject: Proper opeeration of Coolant system on IIA 2.25 petrol

Hello;
My question is, 
Should the coolant forced into the overflow bottle be drawn back into the radiator when the engine
cools down?

The radiator will need topping up after getting stuck in traffic on real hot days. The temp guage
has never hit red.  There is coolant in the overflow bottle, but it hasn"t overflowed. I usually
pour it back into the radiator.

I have an air compressor and want to pressure test the system, what max. pressure should I use or
should I let my mechannic do this. He won't touch either of my Rovers, but I think he would do this.

Also, there is some chaff(hay) in the radiator, I tried to blow it out with air and water, can I
brush out the rest with a scrub brush?

Keith R. Mohlenhoff

------------------------------

From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Re: Proper opeeration of Coolant system on IIA 2.25 petrol
Date: Mon, 30 Jun 97 13:54:44 BST

> Hello;
> My question is, 
> Should the coolant forced into the overflow bottle be drawn back into the radiator when the engine
> cools down?

Yep, if its connected to the hole on the bottle. One of the holes on the
top, goes all the way down to the base. This should be connected to the 
radiator. The other is the overflow.

> The radiator will need topping up after getting stuck in traffic on real hot days. The temp guage
> has never hit red.  There is coolant in the overflow bottle, but it hasn"t overflowed. I usually
> pour it back into the radiator.

Sounds okay. I always have a little in the overflow.

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Mon, 30 Jun 1997 08:59:13 -0400
Subject: Re: Proper opeeration of Coolant system on IIA 2.25 petrol

If the coolant's not being drawn back, check the tube from the tank to the
radiator for cracks. Typicallly these will dry-rot and seep, allowing the
radiator to blow off under pressure, but the vacuum isn't enough to draw
the coolant and it sucks air through the hose instead.

                         ajr

------------------------------

From: Chuque Henry <ChuqueH@isco.com>
Subject: Zenith or Webber?
Date: Mon, 30 Jun 1997 08:51:32 -0500

Quick question.  I'm driving about 5 hours to go camping this 4th of
July weekend.  My Solex has crapped out on me.  I want to switch carbs,
but have to order here this morning so I can get them in time to switch
and tune.  Would you opt for a Zenith or a single barrel Webber?

-Q
"Where Did I Go Today?"
1970 Series IIa 88 Land Rover "Narnook"
1977 Series I Lotus Esprit (#118)
 

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Mon, 30 Jun 1997 09:59:28 -0400
Subject: Re: Zenith or Webber?

Weber - no doubt, especially considering the warping problems with the
covers on the Zenith.

Cal around to the local junkyards. Early Pintos used the Weber 34ICH - you
might get lucky and find one.

                    ajr

------------------------------

From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Re: Zenith or Webber?
Date: Mon, 30 Jun 97 15:04:31 BST

When I asked the question, everyone said get a "Zenith"!

Its got a bit more umph, is better and more maintainable,etc than your
Solex. Also, being standard equipment, it meant I already had all the
maintenance info,etc,etc.

Richard

> Weber - no doubt, especially considering the warping problems with the
> covers on the Zenith.
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 10 lines)]
> might get lucky and find one.
>                     ajr

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Jun 1997 21:43:21 +0300
From: Iwan Vosloo <ivosloo@cs.up.ac.za>
Subject: SER: Darn, battery not charging

Hi all,

after a while of relative peace, I seem to have been struck by lucas. 
(And I though driving a diesel will keep me relatively safe...)

Before I pluck the alternator out there--can anyone recognise these
symptoms and/or tell me where to start looking?

When I switch the ignition on (with the engine off), my 'charge' light
comes on only dimly instead of nice and bright as normal to indicate
it's working.  When the engine is running, it's still dim-no change.  I
know for sure that the battery does not charge because after a 2 days of
this it does not feel like turning the engine anymore.  (And o yes, the
fanbelt is fine.)

What I want to know is: is this a short somewhere or should I
immediately suspect the alternator itself?  And: is there anyplace
special where I could start my debugging?  (I'm wishing for a easy fix
here...I guess I should "dream on")

(It'd be nice if you could cc your replies to this one to me personally
since I want to start working on it before I get the next digest.)

- Iwan Vosloo
( 1975 SIII 88" Diesel )

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Jun 1997 21:29:19 +0300
From: Iwan Vosloo <ivosloo@cs.up.ac.za>
Subject: Re: HELP-need torque setting

> I can not find the torque setting for the special nut that goes on the
> transmission output shaft.  All I find in the manual is "reverse the
> procedure"
> Its a IIA transmission.

TeriAnn, I'm not sure which one you're talking about, but my book says
the "Output drive flange nut"  (the castellated nut on the rear output
of the transfer to which you can only get by removing the rear propshaft
(!) ) should be torqued to 85 lbf ft (118 Nm).  But this nut is a quite
normal castellated one.

There is also one with a funny shape that goes onto the rear of the
mainshaft...for which I could not find the setting either  (but I could
not torque it anyway since I don't have anything axcept a hammer &
screwdriver to tighten it with).

- Iwan Vosloo
( 1975 SIII 88" Diesel )

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Jun 1997 13:16:24 -0700
From: "Christopher H. Dow" <dow@thelen.org>
Subject: Re: SER: Darn, battery not charging

<Iwan Vosloo fears he's been struck with the Lucas Demon>

I suggest you start by charging the battery.  You will need a
well-charged battery to perform most of the tests.   

The first thing to do is to short the idiot light wire on the alternator
to +V, then turn on the ignition switch.  If the charging light is not
illuminated on the dash panel, then your alternator is not charging
(evidenced by the dim light when the wire to to idiot light is connected
to its rightful place on the atlernator), and it should either be
rebuilt or replaced (alternators are relatively cheap here in the US,
but I don't know about South Africa (.za == South Africa, right?).  If
the light is dim while the wire normally attached to the alternator is
attached to +V, then you probably have a short to ground somewhere, and
should tear apart the harness and find it.  

If you need a new alternator, it will take less time.  If you have
wiring problems, it will cost less money (unless you find other problems
while you have the harness apart).  

If it's wiring, just trace the idiot light wire from the lamp to the
alternator, and use a test lamp at various places to determine where the
ground occurs.  Do this by turning on the ignition, and gounding the
clip of the test lamp.  Then use the probe (poke it through the
insulation) and check for where the voltage drop occurs.  Do this with
the idiot light wire shorted to +V instead of the alterator.

If you do open up the harness, I'd recommend stuffing the wires into
auto conduit instead of rewrapping with PVC, as the conduit allows for
better access to the wires later (most modern cars use this).  

Good Luck,
C

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Jun 1997 16:03:46 -0400 (EDT)
From: "DAN PRASADARAO, AIR-7.4.1, SECURITY (301)757-1479 X26"
Subject: 109 frames/ Salisbury axles for sale

>>Date: Thu, 26 Jun 1997 21:54:40 -0400 (EDT)
>>From: Douglas L Boothby <boothby@nh.ultranet.com>
>>Subject: 109 frames/ Salisbury axles for sale

>>I have 3 109 military frames for sale @ $1200 each. They are used and
>>relatively rust free. I also have 2 Salisbury axles @ $500 each. I
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 7 lines)]
>>located in southwestern Maine just over the line from Rochester, NH.
>>------------------------------

I have a '63 109 Station wagon, will the 109 Military frames work for my
car?  

One of the rear outriggers at the front of the spring resembles swiss
cheese.  The current frame also has a 1 square inch hole next to the left
front bump stop, plus another two or three very small rust spots/holes.  Is
this frame worth saving? Or could I use one of the 109 military frames with
minimal modification.  I can't afford a shiny new frame right now.  The
worst area currently is the right rear out rigger at the front of the
spring.  What is a reasonable price to pay for labor to have a new one
welded on?  I know a good welder in the Washington DC area who could do the
job but I'm not sure what a reasonable price is?

Thanks in advance for the help.

Dan Rao
'63 109 station wagon

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Jun 1997 15:35:33 -0500
From: mtooze@tan.unl.edu (Marcus Tooze)
Subject: importing to US

Is there anybody here who has actually imported a rover recently legally??
My import docs are from '94 and I have yet to call customs and 
order new info. 

In detail, are customs now running a 25 year roll around deal? i.e., can
you now import a '72 without problems? Furthermore, I am actually interested
in a deisel, and the customs book I have states that up to a 1975 deisel 
engined car can be imported.

I should probably ask one of the many importers advertising in Hemmings,
but I feel like I am milking them, and they are not making any money
from me (losing money actually, as I am not buying one of their rovers!)

Marcus

----- End Included Message -----

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Jun 1997 16:07:56 -0500
From: mtooze@tan.unl.edu (Marcus Tooze)
Subject: more import

Found a useful web page:

www.customs.ustreas.gov/imp-exp/car/car.htm#DOT

Give breif details on importation. From what I can gather, the two groups you
have to satisfy are DOT and EPA:

DOT:
Must meet bumper standards after 1973, but instructions say 'generally anything
25 years or older' is ok. So makes 1972 the max year for gas or diesel right 
now.

EPA:
Gas car or truck, subject to emmision requirement Dec. 1967
Diesel car, Dec 31 1974
Diesel light truck (rover?), dec 31, 1975.

So,  from this I gather that the max. year for a diesel import in 1972,
while only '67 or older gas rovers should be allowed in....

Anybody experiencing anything different to this? I can'r believe there are
many pre-67 gas rovers left in england!!

Marcus

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Jun 1997 02:11:36 -0700
From: Michael Carradine <cs@crl.com>
Subject: Re: importing to US

At 03:35 PM 6/30/97 -0500, Marcus Tooze wrote:
:Is there anybody here who has actually imported a rover recently legally??
:My import docs are from '94 and I have yet to call customs and 
:order new info. 
:
:In detail, are customs now running a 25 year roll around deal? i.e., can
:you now import a '72 without problems? Furthermore, I am actually interested
:in a deisel, and the customs book I have states that up to a 1975 deisel 
:engined car can be imported.
:
:I should probably ask one of the many importers advertising in Hemmings,
:but I feel like I am milking them, and they are not making any money
:from me (losing money actually, as I am not buying one of their rovers!)

 Marcus,

 We bring in Mercedes Unimogs all the time and the 25 year rule (1972
 and earlier) applies to DOT.  EPA has a 21 year expiry (1976 and earlier).
 EPA regulates diesel fueled cars manufactured after 12/31/74 and diesel
 fueled light-duty trucks manufactured after 12/31/75.  So, either way
 you're in the clear for a diesel 1975 Land Rover SUV! ;)

 Regards,

 Michael Carradine                                   Ph/Fax 510-988-0900
 Unimog Network Int'l, Box 494, Walnut Creek, CA 94597 USA  <cs@crl.com>
 _______________________________________________________________________
 Mercedes-Benz Unimog 4x4 WWW page:   http://www.crl.com/~cs/unimog.html
 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Jun 1997 17:45:02 -0400
From: Eric Zipkin <ericz@cloud9.net>
Subject: Test-do not open

New mailer, checking everything is working properly.
Eric Zipkin
Bedford, NY  USA

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Jun 1997 17:49:50 -0400
From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Subject: Re: 109 frames/ Salisbury axles for sale

Hey Dan, I have the same deal on my frame. Can we get together one 
weekend and repair frame holes? I have a welder here and I bought an 
outrigger from RN for about 55 bonkers. get one for yourself and we'll 
make it a party.

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon,
'81 Honda Goldwing 1100 Standard:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

------------------------------

From: debrown@srp.gov
Date: 30 Jun 97 15:53:02 MST
Subject: Re: Need Rover V-8 Advice! :-)

FROM:  David Brown                           Internet: debrown@srp.gov
       Computer Graphics Specialist ~ S.R.P. ~ AM/FM - Graphic Records
       PAB219 (602)236-3544 -  Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486
  >
  > From what I understand, they bore the sleeves out and re-sleeve(Australia).
  > They tell me there haven't been any problems....I don't want to chance it!

  > Seems like the cheapest way out, but why would a Rover owner take the
  > cheaper way out!? ;-)

All too true!

  > I think I'll be calling Chris to talk to him and order one of his 4.6L
  > blocks...sounds like the easiest way to go and it's a new block to boot!
  > Should make the Rover move quite well! ;-)  At some later date, I can
  > stroke the 3.5L to 3.9L and keep it for another project! ;-)

That's what I thought too... not real secure putting a 30 year old crank
into my RR. I still have my 3.5 short block, though without heads,
oil pan, brackets, intake, valve covers, etc... it would take quite a
lot to make it into something to fit a project, unless you had yet
another LR V8 complete engine to work with. Besides, the new block is
stronger, and has cross-bolted mains! I've heard that the Rover oil pan
won't fit the Buick 215 block, so I doubt the Buick pan would fit the
Rover block. (Lack of interchangable parts could make locating these
parts a problem.)

  > So let me get this straight; you're getting the RPI block and using your
  > old heads?  Does the ECU chip need to be replaced, or do you just change
  > the fuel regulator as RPI suggests?  Or both!?  I have two ECUs now, so I
  > have one to play with.  Are you putting in a Crane cam, or one that RPI
  > suggests?  Are you going to use the Cloyes timing set?  If so, what part
  > numbers could you give me?  Are you going to change the distributor to the
  > Mallory that RPI uses?  Heheheh...so many questions!  I'd really like to
  > have a page on our club website with all this information on it-are you
  > game to contribute?  It would be nice to have a site where all the options
  > are laid out for others who want to follow suit!

Correct, I'm using my old heads. According to RPI they'll work fine. I am
having them ported for better flow, and am looking into having larger
valves put in.

RPI seems to think that the existing ECU can be used by using their
variable fuel pressure regulator, but I have my doubts. At worst, I
located a company in my own city that will put it on a dyno and make
a chip for me for around $500. Superchips said around $200 for a mail
order chip but I'm a little leary of them not having the RR on a dyno,
and just sending me a chip (assuming that it will be based on the spec's
that I would send them - cam info, valve size, engine size, etc.)

I'm going with the cam that RPI recommended for the automatic, the "101"
Piper, which has the following cam spec's:
  Piper 101 cam Timing    v-lift  v-clearance full lift   lift at tdc
       intake:  18 - 62   .432       .000        112A         0
      exhaust:  62 - 18   .432       .000        112B         0

The Cloyes true roller chain set is # 9-3132 ($74.95 P.A.W. 1.818.998.6000)
Lifters: Crane # 99284-16 ($60.99 Jeg's 1.800.345.4545)

No, I'm using my stock RR distributor.

I'm also looking into Hedman headers #39800 and should be receiving a
fax with a picture of them Today... but I think they may have forgotten me.
(Hedman headers - 1.562.921.0404 - only headers AT ALL that fit the RR)
I checked Jardine, JBA, L&L, Mesa, Stan's, R.V.Performance, Ultraflow, APC,
and a few header distributors.

I'd ABSOLUTELY LOVE for there to be a web page with all the details and
options charted out. I'd be happy to share everything that I've gathered
on the subject. Still, I feel like there's SO MUCH more "out there" that
can be learned or modified on the Rover engine, but where???

  >> > Dave (nervously awaiting the new "birth" of my RR) Brown

  > Let me know when I should light my cigar! ;-)

You'll be the first to know (list members)

IS ANYONE TAKING NOTES ON ALL THIS??? PLEASE??? Save someone all the
research time!!!

I copied this to the "Land Rover" list in case someone there wants to
add it to a Rover web page, or start one on the Rover V8 engine.

Dave (Not the V8 answer man, but learning more and more) Brown

 I count him braver who overcomes     #=======#         _____l___
 his desires than him who conquers    |__|__|__\___    //__/__|__\___
 his enemies; for the hardest victory | _|  |   |_ |}  \__ - ____ - _|}
 is the victory over self. -Aristotle "(_)""""""(_)"      (_)    (_)

------------------------------

From: robot1@juno.com
Date: Mon, 30 Jun 1997 18:38:14 -0500
Subject: d ynamo

>Can batteries get so discharged that they can't be properly recharged by
the
>engine? The battery is 3 months old. I don't want to recharge it and run
out
>of steam someplace inconveinient. Does the dynamo need to be
"initialized"
>some how? If so, by what means?

A dynamo(generator) needs to have a relatively fully charged battery to
charge the battery (who'se bright idea was this anyway?) Probably you're
voltage regulator is dying or you're not using the vehicle for long
enough periods to keep the battery topped off. Simplest fix (if the
voltage regulator is o.k. ) is to swap to an alternator
or if originality is a major issue, get a really good pair of jumper
cables.  Alternately, I took a 2-cycle snowblower motor and attached it
to a Delco alternator (the kind with the built in regulator) so I have a
kind of 12 volt generator. Has 5' of jumper cable attached. Works like a
charm. You could build it in under the driver's seat. Even wire it direct
to the battery.  Be a hero in cold weather!

Good luck!

Mark

------------------------------

Subject: 1998 - 50th Anniversary of Land Rover ARC Int'l Rally
Date: Mon, 30 Jun 1997 18:50:06 -0400
From: William Caloccia <caloccia@OpenMarket.com>

>From A.R.C. News.
Issue 14 June 1997

 1998 - 50th Anniversary of Land Rover ARC Int'l Rally

Following  discussions with Lancs & Cheshire LRC, Eastnor Estates Ltd.
and Land Rover, the [A.R.C.] Council is pleased to announce that the
1998 International Rally, celebrating 50 years of 'The Best 4 x 4 x Far'
will be held at Eastnor.

Provisional plans allow for a nine-day rally, from Friday 22nd May to 
Sunday 31st May, with all of the usual 'International' features, but many
more special celebration events suitable for the whole family. Lancs and
Cheshire will act as rally co-ordinators, but in view of the new
location, increased scope, and duration of the rally, assistance will
be sought from other clubs for running specialised events and services.

A proposed programme, subject to futhre discussions and confirmation, is:

Fri 22 May	Site Opens
Sat 23	Grand Opening
	'Showroom Vehicles Competitive Event'
Sun 24	Concours - Cars
	International CCV Trial
Mon 25	Comp Safari
Tue 26	Team Recovery
Wed 27	Inter Club Challenge Event
Thu 28	Rest Day
Fri 29	Winch Recovery
Sat 30	RTV Trials
Sun 31	Site Closes

	Gymkhanae, Trailer Handling competitions, Land Rover Concours, and
	Senic Safaris will be ongoing through out the week.

At Eastnor Castle,
Ledbury
Herefordshire,
England

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Jul 1997 02:35:12 +0200
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Subject: Any Computer experts out there?
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Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Not wishing to abuse the bandwidth I'll keep this one short!

Is anyone on this list a wizard at computer configuration, especially
IBM PS/2 55 Microchannel PC's. I have three which wont boot to their C
drive, and yes the drives are OK, formatted, sys'ed and checked on a
working PS/2! This problem has bugged me for a week, now I need help,
and IBM are about as interested in a PS/2 55 as Solihull are in a Series
IIA.

If anyone happens to work with such "antiques", plerase contact me
direct and I'll forward a more detailled fault description.

I have considered a "frameover" but these were cheap, and if able to
work, will do the job!

Thanks!
--------------DA85295FCA2B0126FC297B69
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Jun 1997 23:46:50 -0400 (EDT)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@nrn1.NRCan.gc.ca>
Subject: Re: Test-do not open

On Mon, 30 Jun 1997, Eric Zipkin wrote:

> New mailer, checking everything is working properly.

	This for you and the fiance together?  :-)

	Rgds

ps love those rally rumours!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Jun 1997 20:56:15 -0700
From: "Clinton D. Coates" <Clinton_Coates@bc.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Parabolic Springs

So there has been a bit of a flurry of discussion on the BC List about 
the merits of parabolic springs.  Does anyone on the list have first hand 
experience with the benefits/detractions from parabolic springs on series 
land rovers?  McAllister springs in Surrey (BC) claims they would give 
"too much sway" on the highway (like an old RR perhaps?) and "had never 
heard of them being put on an offroad vehicle" (never heard of Santana).

Also, the supplier in the UK, does he import to NA, and what are his 
prices if he does?

Clinton

------------------------------

From: "Beckett, Ron" <rbeckett@nibupad.telstra.com.au>
Subject: RE: Aussie army coils?
Date: Tue, 1 Jul 1997 15:06:00 +1000

Sorry Ed, I don't.  I've posted this back to the net - someone else may
be able to help

Ron

 ----------
From: ETMFOUR@aol.com
Subject: Aussie army coils?
Date: Tuesday, 1 July 1997 5:11AM

Hi, One of the local parts importers here in the US has just gotten in a
shipment of aftermarket coils. He doesnt have any specs on them yet, he
claims they are better than old man emu, but he's only sold a couple
sets, so
there is no real feedback from owners yet.
Suposedly the australian army chose them over the OME and just ordered
20,000
coils. Do you happen to know anything about the coils they are using?
Thanks
Ed Messenger
89 rr (with bad coils)

------------------------------

From: CIrvin1258@aol.com
Date: Tue, 1 Jul 1997 02:36:50 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Need Rover V-8 Advice! :-)

Dave,

I do know, that, according to "The Rover V-8 Engine" book by Haynes, that the
existing ECU for a SD-1 is good for upto 650bhp! (possibly even 700 - I can't
remember exactly) After that, you may want to make a few changes.

Charles

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Jun 1997 23:42:28 -0700
From: Jim Holmes <jrh@hooked.net>
Subject: Temp. Gauge Install

I've installed a Sunpro water temperature gauge in my SII and am 
having difficulties getting it to function properly. The gauge uses 
a bourdon tube mechanism that is installed into the threaded hole on 
the right side of the thermostat housing. Unfortunately, even with 
the engine warm, the gauge refuses to come off the peg to register 
temperature. I thought it might be a faulty sending unit so I pulled 
the sending unit out and tested it in a beaker of boiling water. 
This caused the gauge to register the proper temperature. I put the 
sending unit back in the thermostat housing and it still doesn't 
want to register coolant temperature.

The only thing I can think of is that the location of the sending in 
the thermostat housing doesn't allow it to come in full contact with 
the circulating coolant. 

Any ideas on what I should try next?

Thanks,

Jim

------------------------------

From: "Shaun Fisher" <FISHERS@natburo.kzntl.gov.za>
Date:          Tue, 1 Jul 1997 08:53:25 
Subject:       R6 front diff

Hi all
I have a great nead of an R6 front diff or just the right-hand shaft.
Mine sort of um.. just twisted off.

Shaun Fisher
SERIES IIA BOOZMOBILE

------------------------------

From: "Huub Pennings" <pennings@kfih.azr.nl>
Date: Tue, 1 Jul 1997 09:20:32 +0100
Subject:       Re: Minerva or what?????

Hellow roverists.

I' still in the dark here.
I went over to have another look at what appears to be  
military Belgium Land Rovers type "88 SIII   with ragtops.
The funny thing is, they have only one gear shift lever and that is 
why I suppose they are permanent four wheel drive with no high and 
low gear. (No selector)
Anyone on the list familiar with this type???
(no Minerva's since they had non aluminium bodywork)

Regards,

Huub Pennings

e-mail adress
Pennings@kfih.azr.nl

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Jul 1997 09:47:44 +0200
From: philippe.carchon@rug.ac.be (philippe)
Subject: Minerva

Huub,

it's easy to distinguish Minerva's from regular Series III: a Minerva looks 
more like a Series I. I'm also wondering that someone will be offering a lot 
of Minerva's, they are not so common anymore. What's really common here 
(Belgium) is the last series III the Belgium army used. I know some adresses 
 where you can buy hundreds of those cars (Ternat, near Brussels). And 
prices range between 65 000 and 95 000 belgian francs (approx. $2000-$3000)  
so I think the ones you saw are really SIII Belgian army. There is however 
one 'tricky' thing: they are almost all 4x2 which means they don't have the 
4 wheel driving. Looks very stange: a LR without transfercase, without 
yellow knob-lever, without red knob-lever, etc.

Philippe 
'81 Lightweight, Ghent, Belgium
  

------------------------------

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